GB2420076A

GB2420076A - Skincare composition

Info

Publication number: GB2420076A
Application number: GB0520896A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Paul James Tomlinson
Original assignee: Boots Co PLC
Current assignee: Boots Co PLC
Priority date: 2004-10-15
Filing date: 2005-10-14
Publication date: 2006-05-17
Anticipated expiration: 2025-10-14
Also published as: GB0422918D0; GB2420076B; GB0520896D0

Abstract

There is disclosed a composition for topical application to the skin. The composition comprises: a) from 30% to 75% by weight of oil phase; b) from 1% to 20% by weight of surfactant; c) from 0.01 to 20% by weight of an elastomer; and d) from 2% to 40% by weight of aqueous phase. The composition provides a cleansing and smoothing effect on the skin. In a preferred embodiment, the oil phase is caprylic/capric triglyceride, the anionic surfactant is polysorbate 20, and the elastomer is dimethicone crosspolymer.

Description

I

Title - Skincare Composition The present invention relates to a skincare composition and in particular to a composition for cleansing the skin.

The stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, provides a moisturised and flexible barrier and consists of numerous layers of tough plate-like cells set in a highly organised lipid environment. These cells are constantly renewed by the epidermis, and under normal conditions they flake away at the skin's surface. This process of sloughing off cells on the skin's surface is called desquamation, and it is by this process that the skin naturally exfoliates. On average, skin cell renewal (from cell division at the base of the epidermis to loss at the stratum corneum surface) occurs on a monthly cycle and approximately one cell layer per day is lost. The process is important in maintaining a flexible, moisturised and fresh-looking appearance to the skin.

The cells on the outermost surface are less hydrated than those deeper in the stratum corneum. Thus slower renewal of cells and/or their defective exfoliation can leave the surface drier, duller and less flexible. Such deficiencies can be brought about by two notable environmental factors sun exposure and exposure to aggressive detergents. It is also important to note that abnormal desquamation can also affect the hair follicles, where build up of dead cells contributes to follicular blockage and thus comedone formation, and potentially acne.

The use of an exfoliant can enhance the natural process of desquamation, by removal of the dead cells on the top layer of the skin to reveal newer cells underneath. The use of an exfoliant makes the skin look and feel much smoother. Immediately after exfoliation, many consumers notice an initial "glow'. Facial exfoliators refine and brighten the complexion, the skin feels hydrated and nourished, and pores may be left feeling clean and tight.

Exfoliators may help diminish obvious pores by keeping the pores free of unwanted material, which can result in the perception of reduced pore size.

Exfoliants can be used all over the body. Physical exfoliation treatments are normally used on legs, arms and trunk of the body. Examples of such treatments include loofahs, abrasive sponges, pads, brushes and "scrubs".

Facial skin is fine and more delicate than the skin on the rest of the body, and so consumers are advised to exfoliate the face with compositions containing finer scrub ingredients and/or other non-granular exfoliating ingredients such as a-hydroxy acids (AHAs) and 3-hydroxy acids (BHAs). Exfoliation may also result from the use of facial masks, eg peel-off masks which dry after application and are then pulled off the skin, taking the dead skin cells with them. Other facial masks may have a granular texture that helps smooth the skin when the mask is massaged on and/or rinsed off. Skincare compositions of the type known as toners, which work by removing dirt and cells using a cotton ball or pad, may also exfoliate the skin to a certain extent.

Granular "scrub" ingredients that may be included in exfoliating compositions include natural granules such as sea salt, sugar, pumice, ground oatmeal, cornmeal, jojoba beads, powdered apricot and peach seeds and powdered walnut kernels. These granules are usually irregularly shaped and larger than synthetic granules. Synthetic scrub granules are usually small, spherical polyethylene beads.

Non-granular exfoliating ingredients include AHAs, eg glycolic acid, BHAs, eg salicylic acid, retinoic acid, papaya enzyme and honey. Detergents themselves can help remove the dead surface cells.

Both granular and non-granular exfoliating compositions have disadvantages, and consumers often cause skin damage by improper or too frequent use, especially consumers with sensitive skin or skin problems such as acne or rosacea.

Scrub ingredients, particularly the larger, irregularly shaped natural granules, may create tiny nicks or tears in facial skin, leaving it raw and scratched, or may become embedded in the skin. The use of harsh, abrasive exfoliators can damage existing spots and spread infection.

Over-exfoliating, particularly with compositions containing harsh surfactants, can remove too much of the skin's protective layer. The protective layer of the skin renders the skin waterproof and protects it from bacteria. Over-exfoliating can therefore lead to impaired protection against invading bacteria and even contribute to infection as dry skin provides micro-environments for skin bacteria.

AHAs and BHAs may have a short-term drying effect on the skin and this dehydrating effect can make oily skin look shiny. AHAs are known skin irritants and many consumers experience adverse effects ranging from mild irritation and stinging to blistering and burns. Also, there are concerns over the safety of AHAs and BHAs, and some studies have suggested that compositions containing AHAs may actually cause the skin to age more rapidly.

Facial cleansers and toners may remove some dead cells but may not provide the exfoliation required for dull, dehydrated skin, and do not leave the same skin-smoothness that a consumer would expect from a conventional exfoliating composition. Moreover, alcohol-based toners may remove protective skin lipids, thus contributing to duller skin in the longer term.

There thus exists a need for skincare compositions which leave the skin feeling as smooth as it does after conventional exfoliation, but which may be safer, less irritating or less drying, and which may reduce or eliminate the risk of scratching or tearing of the skin.

There have now been devised improved skincare compositions that address this need and which overcome or substantially mitigate the abovementioned and/or other disadvantages associated with the prior art.

Thus, according to the invention there is provided a skincare composition corn prising a) from 30% to 75% by weight of oil phase; b) from I % to 20% by weight of surfactant; c) from 0.01 to 20% by weight of an elastomer; and d) from 2% to 40% by weight of aqueous phase.

The compositions according to the invention are advantageous primarily in that they have a cleansing and smoothing effect on the skin, comparable to that of a conventional exfoliating composition. However, this effect may be achieved without the use of granular scrub materials or non- granular exfoliating ingredients such as AHAs and BHAs. The disadvantages of these conventional exfoliating ingredients, eg the risk of skin damage, irritation and adverse reactions, may therefore be reduced or substantially eliminated.

The composition will generally comprise a major proportion of oil phase. By "oil phase" is meant those ingredients (apart from the surfactant and elastomer, to the extent that those ingredients reside in the oil phase) that together constitute a hydrophobic phase that is physically distinct from the aqueous phase. Oil phase ingredients may include, for example, PPG-1 5 stearyl ether, ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl dimethicone, octyldodecanol, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, isopropyl myristate isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate isodecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isohexadecane, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, trihexanoin, canola oil, sunflower oil (Helianthus annuus), olive oil (Olea europea), cottonseed oil (Gossypium herbaceum), jojoba oil (Simmondsja chinensis), shea butter (Butyrospermum park/i), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao), cupuacu butter (Theobroma grandiflorum), avocado oil (Persea grat/ssima), liquid paraffin, dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane, dimethiconol or petrolatum. Other examples are waxes, eg tribehenin, which may also aid the stability of the composition.

The concentration of oil phase will typically be in excess of 30% by weight, more commonly in excess of 40% by weight, and preferably in excess of 45% by weight. The concentration of oil phase is preferably less than 75% by weight, more preferably less than 60%. The concentration of oil phase may therefore fall in the range 30% to 75% by weight, more preferably 40% to 60% by weight and most preferably 45% to 60% by weight.

Preferred oil phase ingredients are triglycerides, esters and/or silicones.

Particularly preferred oil phase ingredients are phenyl trimethicone and/or triglycerides such as triethylhexanoin and caprylic/capric triglyceride. The most preferred oil phase ingredient is caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The concentration of surfactant is preferably at least 5% by weight, more preferably at least 8% by weight. The concentration of surfactant is preferably less than 16% by weight, and most preferably less than 13% by weight. The concentration of surfactant may therefore fall in the range 5% to 20% by weight, more preferably 5% to 16% by weight and most preferably 8% to 13% by weight.

Examples of surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention include anionic surfactants, eg sodium lauryl sulphate, sodium laureth sulphate, sodium stearoyl lactylate, ammonium laureth sulphate, disodium laureth sulfosuccjnate and sodium Cl 2-15 pareth sulphate; amphoteric/zwifterionic surfactants, eg cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium cocoamphoacetate and cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine; nonionic surfactants, eg laureth-3, oleth-5, cocamide DEA, cocamide MEA, PEG-5 cocamide, polysorbate 20, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Cl 2-Cl 3 pareth-3; and cationic surfactants, eg cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride and benzalkonium chloride.

Preferred surfactants are surfactants with HLB values in the range 12 to 18.

Surfactants having an HLB value outside of this range can be used in combination with other surfactants to achieve an effective weighted average HLB for the combination, which fafls in the range 12 to 18. More preferably, surfactants have HLB values above 14, and are either anionic or non-ionic.

Particularly preferred surfactants are non-ionic surfactants. Such surfactants may have a milder effect on the skin than anionic surfactants at high concentrations. Anionic surfactants may be drying and irritating at high concentrations, and may cause stinging. The most preferred surfactants are octyldodeceth-25 or polysorbate 20.

By "elastome," in this context is meant ingredients of the type referred to by that name by those skilled in the field of cosmetics and toiletries. Particular examples include silicone elastomers, eg of the dimethicone cross-polymer type, as described in the International Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th edition), which is a polymer of dimethylpolysiloxane cross- linked with a 3- to 20-carbon alkyl group. Dimethylpolysiloxane polymers cross-linked with alkyl groups that have 1and 2-carbons are also available, and these may be equally suitable.

Suitable elastomers are commercially available as blends under the trade names Dow Corning 9040 (comprising dimethicone crosspolymer and cyclomethicone) and 9042 (comprising dimethicone crosspolymer and dimethicone).

The concentration of elastomer preferably ranges from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably from I % to 5% by weight. The most preferable concentration of elastomer is 2.5% by weight of the composition.

The elastomer is most preferably a particulate elastomer, particularly a dimethicone/vinyi dimethicone cross polymer, ie dimethylpolysiloxane cross polymerised with vinyl dimethyl polysiloxane. The elastomer is preferably dispersed in a volatile silicone, eg cyclopentasiloxane. A suitable elastomer is available under the trade name Dow Corning 9506 cosmetic powder. Similar materials are available as KM9729 from Shin-Etsu, Gransil RPS-NA from Grant Industries and SFE839 from GE Silicones.

The elastomer preferably exhibits shear-thinning behaviour when rubbed onto the skin, enhancing spreadability and skin-feel upon application. The inclusion of an elastomer is essential to the smooth after-feel desired. The elastomer may also thicken and/or stabilise the composition, and it may be desirable to use more than one elastomer in order to obtain the optimum stability, viscosity and skin-feel.

Conventional compositions with a high proportion of oil are, in most circumstances, difficult to rinse off the skin and this potential disadvantage would be expected to be exacerbated by the inclusion of a non-aqueous elastomer, which would not normally rinse off with water. However, the composition according to the invention has a superior rinseoff capability that can be attributed to the high concentration of surfactant. The composition is massaged into the skin and then rinsed off with water. Upon contact with water, the high concentration of surfactant causes the composition spontaneously to form an emulsion with the water, which can be rinsed off the skin easily.

The "aqueous phase" consists largely of water plus whatever water-soluble and/or water-miscible ingredients (apart from the surfactant and elastomer, to the extent that those ingredients reside in the aqueous phase) are dissolved or dispersed in it, eg glycerine.

The concentration of the aqueous phase preferably ranges from 10% to 30% by weight.

Compositions according to the invention have a low concentration of aqueous phase compared to the concentration of oil phase; preferably a ratio between 1:4 and 1:2 of aqueous phase to oil phase, and more preferably between 1:3 and 1:2 aqueous phase to oil phase.

The composition may additionally include a fine particulate ingredient. Such an ingredient may be a so-called "pearl" or pearlescent agent, eg mica powder coated with titanium dioxide colour, to modify the appearance of the composition by providing a colour and a shimmering and/or pearlescent effect.

Such powders may have particle sizes in the range 5pm to 200pm. In addition to modifying the appearance of the composition it has been found that such ingredients may increase the viscosity and may enhance spreadability and smooth skin-feel.

The concentration of particulate material, eg mica plus colour, preferably ranges from 0.05% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 % to 2%, and most preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight of the composition.

The inclusion of a powder such as a "pearl" has also been shown to stabilise the composition, ie to reduce or prevent phase separation over a period of time. Consequently, other particulates may be added to help improve stability, eg bentone, microcrystalline waxes or clays such as disteardimonium hectonite. It should be noted that it is the particulate nature of the elastomer that is believed to confer improved stability.

As described above, the compositions according to the invention, which do not contain any conventional exfoliating ingredients, still have the perceived skin- smoothing effects of a conventional exfoliator product. The compositions according to the invention are thus preferentially free, or substantially free, of granular and non-granular exfoliating ingredients. By "substantially free" is meant that the level of such ingredients is lower than that required to achieve any significant exfoliating effect, eg less than I %, more preferably less than 0.5% or 0.1% by weight. Nonetheless, certain embodiments of the invention may include such ingredients, though the level at which they are present may be lower than is customary.

Conventional non-granular exfoliating ingredients include AHAs and BHAs.

Examples of AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, methyllactic acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanojc acid, 2-hydroxyoctanojc acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, alpha hydroxylauric acid, alpha hydroxymyristic acid, alpha hydroxypalmjtjc acid, alpha hydroxysteanc acid and alpha hydroxyarachjdonjc acid; aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxyacids, for example, mandelic acid, benzilic acid, phenyllactic acid and polyhydroxy alpha hydroxyacici; polycarboxylic alpha hydroxyacids, for example, glyceric acid, erythronic acid, threonic acid, ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid, allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid galactonic acid, talonic acid, tartronic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid; and lactone forms, for example, gluconolactone, galactonolactone, glucuronolactone, galacturonolactone, gulonolactorie, ribonolactone saccharic acid lactone, pantoyllactone, glucoheptonolactone, mannonolactone and galactoheptonolactone Examples of BHAs include salicylic acid, 3-hydroxypropanoic acid, 3-hydroxybutanoic acid, acid, 3-hyd roxy-3-methylpenta noic acid, 3-hyd roxy-2-aminopentanojc acid, tropic acid, 3-hyd roxy-3-methylglutaric acid, and 3-hyd roxypentanoic acid.

Conventional granular exfoliating ingredients include natural granules such as sea salt, sugar pumice, ground oatmeal, cornmeal, jojoba beads, and powdered apricot seeds, peach seeds and walnut kernels; and synthetic granules such as polyethylene beads.

The composition according to the invention may additionally comprise other ingredients which will be well known to those skilled in the art. These include,

for example:

a) Humectants such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol, urea, xylitol, lactitol, lactic acid and salts, fructose, glucose, mannose, xylose, honey, and pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and salts thereof.

b) Natural extracts, vitamins or other actives, for example Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) its salts, esters, glucosides and glucosamines, Vitamin E (tocopherol) and its esters, herbal extracts such as Panax ginseng, Morus a/ba, Origanum vulgare and Rosmarinus officinalis.

c) Preservatives - ingredients which prevent or retard microbial growth and thus protect the composition from spoilage. Examples of preservatives include DMDM hydantoin, propylparaben, methylparaben, phenoxyethanol, sodium benzoate, bronopol, sodium dehydroacetate, polyhexamethylenebiguanide hydrochloride, isothiazolone and diazolidinylurea.

d) Perfumes and colourings.

According to a further aspect of the invention, there is provided a method for cleansing the skin, which method comprises the application to the skin of a skincare composition as described above.

The invention will now be described in greater detail, by way of illustration only, with reference to the following Examples.

ExamDle I INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 47.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 17.5 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.5 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0. 41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 2

INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 44.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 17. 5 Aqua 15.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.8 Glycerin 7.90 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.5 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 3

INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 39.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 17. 5 Aqua 20.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.8 Glycerin 7.9 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.5 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 4

INCI Name %w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 50.95 Cyclopentasiloxane 17.5 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 8.0 Glycerin 8.0 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.5 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Mthod of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 5

INCI Name %w/w Caprylic/caprjc triglyceride 48.95 Cyclopentasjloxane 17.5 Aqua 10.0225 Polysorbate 20 12.0 Glycerin 8.0 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2. 5 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

ExamDle6 INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 50.95 Cyclopentasiloxane 17.5 Aqua 8.0225 Polysorbate 20 12.0 Glycerin 8.0 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.5 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0. 41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 7

INCI Name %w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 47.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 17.5 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 12.0 Glycerin 8.0 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2. 5 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 iyithod of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 8

INCI Name %w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 47.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 17. 50 Aqua 12.0225 C12-13 pareth-3 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.50 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, C12-13 pareth-3 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

ExamDle 9 INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 27.25 Phenyl trimethicone 20.00 Cyclopentasijoxane 17.50 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.50 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and phenyl trimethicone and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

ExamDle 10 INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 47.25 Aqua 12. 0225 Cyclopentasiloxane 17.50 Polysorbate 20 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.50 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0. 41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 11

INCI Name %w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 43.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 20. 58 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.50 Disteardimonium hectorite 0.72 Mica 0.59 Propylene carbonate 0.20 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin, disteardimonjum hectorite, propylene carbonate and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 12

INCI Name % wiw Caprylic/capric triglyceride 47.05 Cyclopentasiloxane 17. 50 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.50 Mica 0.59 Sodium stearoyl lactylate 0.20 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 ithod of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20, sodium stearoyl lactylate and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 13

INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 47.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 17. 50 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethicone crosspolymer 2.50 Mica 1.77 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 1.23 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer (cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Example 14

INCI Name % w/w Caprylic/capric triglyceride 47.25 Cyclopentasiloxane 17. 50 Aqua 12.0225 Polysorbate 20 11.82 Glycerin 7.88 Dimethjcone crosspolymer 2.50 Tribehenjn 2.00 Mica 0.59 DMDM hydantoin 0.0275 Cl 77891 0.41 Method of manufacture Weigh out aqua (water) and mix with mica, Cl 77891, Polysorbate 20 and glycerine. Heat to 80 C. Weigh out caprylic/capric triglyeride and tribehenin, and heat to 80 C. With both phases at 80 C, slowly stir the oil into the water phase using a propeller stirrer. Cool to below 30 C with constant stirring. Once cool add DMDM hydantoin and the silicone elastomer

(cyclopentasiloxane and dimethicone crosspolymer) with stirring, then homogenise for 2 minutes until fully smooth.

Claims

Claims 1. A skincare composition comprising: a) from 30% to 75% by weight

of oil phase; b) from I % to 20% by weight of surfactant; c) from 0.01 to 20% by weight of an elastomer; and d) from 2% to 40% by weight of aqueous phase.
2. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of the oil phase is in excess of 40% by weight, and preferably in excess of 45% by weight.
3. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of the oil phase is less than 60% by weight.
4. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of the oil phase is in the range 40% to 60%, and more preferably 45% to 60% by weight.
5. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the oil phase ingredients are selected from the group consisting of triglycerides, esters, silicones, and mixtures thereof.
6. A composition as claimed in Claim 5, wherein the oil phase comprises phenyl trimethicone and/or triglycerides.
7. A composition as claimed in Claim 6, where in the oil phase comprises caprylic/capric triglyceride.
8. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of surfactant is at least 5% by weight.
9. A composition as claimed in Claim 8, wherein the concentration of surfactant is at least 8% by weight.
10. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of surfactant is less than 16% by weight.
11. A composition as claimed in Claim 10, wherein the concentration of surfactant is less than 13% by weight.
12. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of surfactant is in the range of 5% to 20% by weight.
13. A composition as claimed in Claim 12, wherein the concentration of surfactar,t is in the range of 8% to 13% by weight.
14. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the surfactant or surfactants used have HLB values in the range 12-18, or the combination of surfactants used achieves an average HLB, which falls in the range 12 to 18.
15. A composition as claimed in Claim 14, wherein the surfactant or surfactants have HLB values above 14.
16. A composition as claimed in Claim 14 or 15, wherein the surfactant or surfactants are anionic or non-ionic.
17. A composition as claimed in Claim 16, which comprises octyldodeceth25 or polysorbate 20.
18. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of elastomer is from 0.5% to 10% by weight.
19. A composition as claimed in Claim 18, wherein the concentration of elastomer is from 1% to 5% by weight.
20. A composition as claimed in Claim 19, wherein the concentration of elastomer is 2.5%.
21. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the elastomer is a dimethicone crosspolymer.
22. A composition as claimed in Claim 21, wherein the dimethicone crosspolymer is a dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer.
23. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the concentration of aqueous phase is 10% to 30% by weight.
24. A composition as claimed in Claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase and the oil phase are present at a weight ratio of between 1:4 and 1:2.
25. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, which further comprises a fine particulate ingredient.
26. A composition as claimed in Claim 25, wherein the fine particulate ingredient is a pearlescent agent, wax or clay.
27. A composition as claimed in Claim 25, wherein the concentration of particulate ingredient is between 0.05% and 10% by weight.
28. A composition as claimed in Claim 27, wherein the concentration of particulate ingredient is between 0.1 to 1% by weight.
29. A composition as claimed in any preceding claim, which comprises one or more excipients selected from the group consisting of exfoliating ingredients, humectants, natural extracts, preservatives, chelating agents, perfumes and colourings.
30. A method for cleansing the skin, which method comprises the application to the skin of a skincare composition as claimed in any preceding claim.