GB2252108A

GB2252108A - Yarn construction.

Info

Publication number: GB2252108A
Application number: GB9201594A
Authority: GB
Inventors: David Eric Morris; Paul Alexander John Morris
Original assignee: SUITABILITY INTERLININGS Ltd; TBA Industrial Products Ltd
Current assignee: SUITABILITY INTERLININGS Ltd; TBA Industrial Products Ltd
Priority date: 1991-01-25
Filing date: 1992-01-24
Publication date: 1992-07-29
Also published as: GB9201594D0; WO1992013122A1; GB9101680D0

Abstract

A reinforcement yarn for interlining or other fabrics comprises a non-meltable inner core strand and surround said core strand, an inner layer comprised of meltable staple fibres and a second layer comprised of non-meltable staple fibres, optionally with an outer layer comprised of meltable staple fibres. Monofilament polyamide is preferred for the core; nylon and polyester fibres are preferred for the staple fibres.

Description

Manufacture of textile fabric and yarn for use therein This invention relates to the manufacture of textile fabric and yarn for use therein.

There is employed in the manufacture of clothing such as suits a fabric known as interlining, whose function is to help the suit to keep its shape whilst at the same time readily accommodating the movements of the wearer. The interlining fabric has a different resistance to bending in the weft direction from that in the warp direction. For example, in a suit chest piece the weft (disposed horizontally) resists collapse, while the warp (vertical) is soft and pliable. This effect is often achieved by using horsehair - a fibre with high natural resilience as a component of the weft, the warp being essentially of cellulosic (particularly viscose) yarn. Horsehair, however, is difficult to handle; and the present invention is concerned with making an interlining fabric without it, but with the kind of resilience just described.

According to the present invention, a fabric reinforcement yarn comprises a non-meltable inner core strand, and surrounding said core strand an inner layer comprising at least some meltable staple fibres and a second layer comprised of non-meltable staple fibres. The core strand is preferably a single monofilament, but may be a bundle of relatively coarse monofilaments. Particularly preferred monofilament materials include polyamides.

The inner and second layers may be staple fibre blends in which the respective meltable or non-meltable fibre component predominates. In some applications, it may be advantageous to include a further, outer layer comprised of meltable staple fibres. Such a layer is particularly useful where it is desired that the reinforcement yarn shall be capable of adhering to adjacent yarns on the application of normal processing temperatures. The respective layers need not be discrete layers; they may merge into one another without any readily discernable interface.

A particularly preferred yarn comprises a nylon monofilament core strand, and surrounding said core strand an inner layer of meltable nylon staple fibres, a second layer of polyester staple fibres and an outer layer of meltable nylon staple fibres.

In the present context, it will be understood that "meltable" and "non-meltable" throughout this specification are relative terms and refer to the behaviour of the yarn components under conventional processing conditions such as hot pressing, particularly when incorporated into an interlining fabric.

The invention further comprises an interlining or other fabric containing a selected proportion of reinforcement yarn according to this invention and included as either warp or weft yarn, or as both, according to the end properties which are desired.

One convenient method of producing a yarn according to the invention is the DREF process which employs a combination of false twist and suction to form a layered yarn structure. Fabric-reinforcement yarn according to the invention may be incorporated into fabrics by normal weaving methods. For interlinings, it may be introduced as weft picks at selected intervals. Subsequently, on subjecting the fabric to hot processing, the meltable fibre components will fuse to the core and to the other staple fibres and to the adjacent fabric parts, thereby imparting a degree of cohesion and controlled stiffness and crease resistance. In short, the invention facilitates the production of fabrics and garments of specific handling characteristics by appropriate selection of the amount and direction of the reinforcing yarns.

The reinforcing yarn of the present invention may be at least in part coloured. This colour will not normally be apparent in an end product such as a suit, but for identification, cutting and tailoring purposes it may be helpful in ensuring that the yarns in the interlining fabric are correctly oriented for optimum reinforcing effect.

In order that the invention be better understood, preferred embodiments of it will now be described by way of example.

EXAMPLE 1: A reinforcing yarn in accordance with the invention was made using a cpre strand of 475 dtex monofilament nylon 66. This was covered in a layer consisting of a blend of 51mm staple length 4.2 dtex low melting point nylon 6 fibres and 40mm staple length, 1.5 dtex polyester fibres, these two fibre componenets constituting respectively about 46% and 54% by weight of the blend. This was followed by a layer of polyester 51 mm, 1.7 dtex staple fibres, both layers being applied by using a DREF spinning process. The yarn thus produced was incorporated into an interlining fabric as weft yarn. The fabric construction was 25 (warp) by 14 (weft) per cm. The reinforcing yarn constituted approximately 20 percent of the fabric.

Samples of the fabric interlining were incorporated into a suit. Hot processing at a minimum of 1400C was used to fuse the meltable fibre components, conferring improved cohesion, resistance to "spikiness" and to fibre migration. At the same time, improved inter-yarn/fabric bonding was achieved. The suit exhibited good handle and had satisfactory resistance to creasing. It compared favourably with a similar suit in which the traditional horsehair had been used in the interlining as a reinforcement.

EXAMPLE 2: A reinforcing yarn in accordance with the invention was made using a core strand of 50 tex monofilament nylon 66.

This was covered in a layer of 51mm staple length 4.2 dtex low melting point nylon 6 fibres, followed by a layer of polyester 51mm, 1.7 dtex staple fibres and a final layer of the same low melting point staple nylon fibres, using a DREF spinning process. The yarn thus produced was incorporated into an interlining fabric as weft yarn. The fabric construction was the same as in Example 1, namely 25 (warp) by 14 (weft) per cm. The reinforcing yarn constituted approximately 20 percent of the fabric.

Samples of the fabric interlining were incorporated into a suit also as in Example 1. Thus hot processing at a minimum of 1400C was used to fuse the meltable fibre components, conferring improved cohesion, resistance to "spikiness" and to fibre migration. At the same time, improved inter-yarn/fabric bonding was achieved. As before, the suit exhibited good handle and had satisfactory resistance to creasing and it compared favourably with a similar suit in which the traditional horsehair had been used in the interlining as a reinforcement.

Claims

1. A fabric reinforcement yarn comprising a non-meltable fibrous inner core strand, and surrounding said core strand, an inner layer comprised of meltable staple fibres and a second layer comprised of non-meltable staple fibres.

2. A fabric reinforcement yarn according to claim 1 wherein the inner core strand comprises a single monofilament.

3. A fabric reinforcement yarn according to claim 1 wherein the inner core strand comprises a plurality of relatively coarse monofilaments.

4. A fabric reinforcement yarn according to any of claims 1-3 wherein the core strand is of a polyamide material.

5. A fabric reinforcement yarn according to any of claims 1-4 having an outer layer comprised of meltable staple fibres.

6. A fabric reinforcement yarn according to any of claims 1-5 wherein at least one of said layers is constituted by a staple fibre blend of meltable and non-meltable staple fibres.

7. A fabric reinforcement yarn according to claim 6 comprising a nylon monofilament core strand, and surrounding said core strand an inner layer comprised of a blend of meltable and non-meltable staple fibres and an outer layer comprised of polyester staple fibres.

8. A fabric reinforcement yarn according to claim 5, comprising a nylon monofilament core strand, and surrounding said core strand an inner layer comprised of meltable nylon staple fibres, a layer comprised of polyester staple fibres and an outer layer comprised of meltable nylon staple fibres.

9. An interlining or other fabric including at least some fabric reinforcing yarn according to any preceding claim.

10. A woven fabric according to claim 8 wherein the reinforcing yarn constitutes a part of the warp or the weft, or of both warp and weft.

11. A reinforcing yarn and a fabric incorporating said yarn substantially as described in relation to and as illustrated by the Examples.