GB2215602A

GB2215602A - A process for protecting the hair using 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof

Info

Publication number: GB2215602A
Application number: GB8903068A
Authority: GB
Inventors: Claude Dubief; Jean Francois Grollier
Original assignee: LOreal SA
Current assignee: LOreal SA
Priority date: 1988-02-11
Filing date: 1989-02-10
Publication date: 1989-09-27
Anticipated expiration: 2009-02-10
Also published as: ATA19489A; CH678010A5; GB2215602B; JP2720884B2; JPH01294613A; DE3943861B4; LU87130A1; FR2627085B1; GB8903068D0; CA1341189C; IT8967073A0; FR2627085A1; BE1003099A5; IT1232710B

Abstract

The process comprises applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and, as active ingredient, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof. A shampoo and a styling gel, foam and spray are exemplified.

Description

2f' 9-, 1 (-.

2 "A process for protecting the hair using 2-hydroxy-4nethoxybenzophenone-5- culphonic acid or a salt thereof" The present Invention relates to 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5- oulphonic acid and its salts in a process for protecting the keratin of the hair against environmental attacking agents and light, and a composition comprising these compounds suitable for protecting the hair against environmental attacking agents and light.

It is known that light attacks the keratin of the hair. Many publications disclose that natural light destroys some amino acids of the hair and that. by degrading the hair fibre, it reduces some of the mechanical properties of the latter; a reduction of mechanical properties is understood chiefly to mean reduction in the 15% extension level.

The 15% extension level Is the weight which must he applied to a wet hair of a given length in order to elongate Ie. ly y 15%. The higher the weight the core elastic and resistant the hair.

To c=bat attabk of the keratin of the hair by lighti the use of substances capable of screening out light radiation has already been proposed. In particulart screening agents well known In the art have been tried, such as benzophenone derivativesi for example 2-hydroxy- 2 4-methoxybenzophenone and 2t2'-dihydrozy-4141-dimethoxy 5,51-disulphobenzophenone disodium saltg or alternatively dibenzoylmethane derivatives, for example 4-tert-butyl 41-methoxydi1>enzoy1meth&nej, or p-aminobenzoic acid and its derivatives such as 2-ethy1hexyl p-dinethylaminoben zoate and (41-dimethylaminobenzoylozyethyl)dinethyl(C:Ls- C3,g alkyl)junmonium tosylate (ESCALOL 537 Q), cinnamates such as 2-ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate or alternatively 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid.

However, these screening substances have not proved effective for preserving the mechanical properties of the hair, namely their elasticity, against the dele terious effects of light. It has even become apparent that their presence in some cosmetic compositions seemingly promotes the degradation of the mechanical properties, in particular the reduction in the 15% extension level.

It has now been surprisingly discovered that 2-hydr oxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid, for example the product sold under the name "UVINUL MS40" by BASF, or a salt thereof, can preserve the mechanical properties of hair from degradation by light. This property is exhibited both on exposure to natural light (sunny environment) and to artificial light (e.g. the xenon emitter of an accelerated ageing apparatus of the SUNTEST RANAU).

3 Accordingly, the present invention provides a process for protecting hair which comprises applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and, as active ingredient, 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzo- phenone-S-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

The invention also provides the use, In a process for preserving the mechanical properties of the hair from degradation by environmental attacking agents or light, of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

Further, the invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5sulphonic acid or a salt thereof, and at least one cosmetic adjuvant which is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof; a thickener, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic polymer or a mixture thereof; an emollient, preservative, foaming agent, foam stabilizer, electrolyte, pH-regulating agent, anti grease agent, sequestering agent, perfume, colouring, propellant or organic solvent.

In particular, the present invention serves to protect the mechanical properties of the hair, such as the 15% extension level in the wet state, against the deleterious effects of environmental agents and light.

Salts of the abovementioned sulphonic acid include metal salts such as the alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts, and ammonium and amine salts.

According to the present invention, 2-hydroxy-4-meth- 4 oxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid a salt thereof is used for preserving the mechanical properties of the hair from attack by light, generally in a quantity, calculated as free acid, of at least 0.3% by weight, for example from 0.3 to 9% by weight, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle. This is typically an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic vehicle. The concentration of 0. 3% corresponds to a molar concentration per 100 g of composition of approximately 1 millimole of acid, which is suitably used in the free form or salified with a metal hydroxide, ammonia solution or an amine.

2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof is suitable for use according to the invention in protecting natural or sensitized hair. "Sensitized hair" is understood to mean hair which has undergone a permanentwaving, dyeing or bleaching treatment.

The cosmetic compositions for hair used in the process of the invention are suitably presented in the form of thickened or unthickened aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alco- holic solutions (the alcohol being, for example, a lower alkanol such as ethanol or 1sopropanol), of gels, of aerosols foams or of sprays, and typically comprise one or more adjuvants customaril-y used in hair-care compositions and which are suitable for-the application envisaged.

Application of these compositions in accordance with the invention is optionally followed by a rinsing. The compositions are typically presented in the form of shampoos, after-shampoos, products to be rinsed for application before or after shampooing, before or after dyeing or bleaching, before or after permanent-waving or straightening, non;-rinsed compositions such as lotions, gels, sprays or foams for setting or blowdrying, lacquers or sprays for maintaining the hair style and restructuring compositions.

when the cosmetic compositions used in accordance with the Invention are not followed by a rinsing, the 2-hydroxy4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or its salt is typically present in a proportion, calculated as the free acid, of 0.3 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, for example in a proportion of from 0.3 to 3.5% by weight.

When the cosmetic compositions used in accordance with the invention are compositions followed by a rinsing, the 2hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or its salt -- is typically present in a proportion, calculated as the free acid, of 0.5 to 9% by weight, for example 0.5 to 6% weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions used in accordance with the invention suitably comprise cosmetic agents which are well known in.the art, with the proviso that they do not themselves degrade the mechanical properties of the keratin of the hair.

Examples of suitable adjuvants or cosmetic agents include cationic, anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, thickeners, anionic, 4 nonionic, amphoteric, cationic polymers and mixtures thereof, emollients, preservatives, foaming agents, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, pH- regulating agents, anti-grease agents, sequestering agents, perfumes, colourings, propellants and organic solvents.

The cationic, anionic, nonionic and amphoteric surfactants, or mixtures thereof, are generally used in proportions of from 0.1 to 50% by weight, for example 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the cosmetic compositions for hair used according to the invention are presented in the form of -shampoos, the latter comprise at least one anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture of such surfactants, in an aqueous medium. Shampoos typically also comprise one or more adjuvants such as colourings, preservatives, thickening agents, foam-stabilizing agents, synergists, emollient agents, electrolytes, sequestering agents, one or more cosmetic resins, perfumes or natural oils, or any other adjuvant customarily used in a shampoo. In these shampoos, the concentration of surfactant is generally from 2 to 50% by weight. Their pH is gei?erally from 3 to 9.

When the compositions used in accordance with the invention constitute non-rinsed compositions - for example lotions, gels, foams, sprays or lacquers for blow-drying, for setting, for styling or treating the hair they generally comprise, in an aqueous, alcoholic or aqueousalcoholic medium, in addition to the sulphonic.acid or its i n 4 I - 7 - salt, at least one cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymer, or a mixture of such polymers, in quantities generally of from 0.1 to 10%, for example from 0.1 to 3%, by weight, and optionally anti-foaming agents.

When the hair-care compositions used in accordance with the invention constitute rinsed lotions, also known as a "rinse", they are typically applied before or after dyeing or bleaching, before or after permanentwaving, before or after shampooing or between two stages of shampooing, and then rinsed after an exposure time.

These compositions are suitably aqueous or aqueous alcoholic solutions, optionally comprising surfactants; they are also suitably gels. The compositions can be pressurized as an aerosol in the form of sprays or foams.

In these rinsed compositions, the concentration of surfactant agents typically varies from 0.1 to 10%, for example from 0.5 to 7%, by weight. They suitably include nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric polymers, or mixtures thereof.

When the hair-care composition are presented in the form of gels, to be rinsed or otherwise, they generally comprise thickeners in the presence nr absence of solvents.

Examples of thickeners include sodium alginate, gum arabic, xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives such as methyl- cellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, or carboxylic polymers such as "Carbopols". It is also possible to obtain a thickening of the lotions by mixing polyethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol stearate or distearate, or by a mixture of amides and phosphoric esters. The concentration of thickener is typically fran 0.1 to 30%,, for example from 0.2 to 15%,, by weight rela tive to the total weight of the composition.

It is also possible to use a thickening agent which results from the ionic interaction of a cationic polymer comprising a copolymer of cellulose or of a cellulose derivative, these copolymers being grafted with a water-soluble quaternary Ammonium monomer salt (and sold under the names OCELQUAT H 100 0 or OCELQUAT L 200"), and a carboxylic anionic polymer having an absolute capillary viscosity in dimethy1formamide or methanol at is a concentration of 5% and at 30"C of not more than X 1()-3 pa.S.

This thickener is described in FR-A-2,598.61 1.

When the hair-care compositions are presented in Ithe form of Ioams, to be rinsed nr otherwise,, they generally include a foaming agent in an a.queous or aqueous alcoholic medium, in the presence of a propellant gas.

Examples of %Utable foaming agents include amialicinonionicp Cationic and amphoteric surfactants,, and mixtures thereof, nonionic, anionic w-A Cationic polymers and mixtures thereof,, and polyvinyl alcohol derived from hydrolysed polyvinyl acetate in which the degree of hydrolysis is not more than 97%, as described in FR-A2,598,613.

To form a foam, a combination of cationic polymer and anionic polymer is typically used, at least one of which two polymers foams in aqueous solution. Such combinations are described in FR- 2,505,348.

The propellant gases used for pressurizing these compositions intended for forming foams are typically present in proportions not exceeding 25%, for example 15%, relative to the total weight of the composition. Examples of propellant gases include carbon dioxide, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, volatile hydrocarbons such as butane, isobutane, propane and mixtures thereof, and non-hydrolysable chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as those sold under the names "FREON" or "DYMEL" by the Company DU PONT de NEMOURS.

When the composition is presented in the form of a spray or lacquer, it typically comprises a film-forming resin in an alcoholic or aqueousalcoholic medium, optionally in the presence of a propellant gas. As a film-forming resin, an anionic polymer including units of acrylic or metha-crylic acid, of crotonic acid or of an a-0-dicarboxylic acids is typically used.

The propellant agents used in these formulations in the form of lacquers are generally chosen from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutaae and mixtures thereof. and mixtures of these hydrocarbons with chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as the compounds sold under the name OPMONO or ODYMBLO by the Comipany DU POKT de NEKOURSj, for example fluoro chlorohydrocarbons such as sonof luorotrichloromethane " difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane -or mixtures of the latter.

The propellants are also suitably chlorinated and/or fluorinated hydrocarbons as described above and mixtures thereof, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide or nitrous oxide.

The propellant phase in these lacquer compo sitions generally represents from 30 to 80% cf the total weight of the pressurized composition.

When the hair-care compositions of the invention constitute restructuring lotions, they generally include products strengthening the keratin chain of the hair.

Examples of this class of product include methylol derivatives such as those described in FR-1,527,085 and FR 1,519,979.

in the process of the present invention for protecting the keratin of the hair against environmental attacking agents and light, a cosmetic composition comprising at least 0.3% by weight of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulpho- nic acid, optionally salified, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic vehicle, is typically applied to the hair in an amount of 30 mg per 9 of hair.

in one embodiment, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.3 to 9% by weight of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone5-sulphonic acid, optionally neutralized by a metal hydroxide, ammonia solution or an amine.

The examples which follow further illustrate the Invention.

ELE 1 A shampoo for protecting the hair is prepared, having the following composition:

sulphonic acid sold by the company BA5F under the name OUVINUL X5 4V is Sodium (C12-C,, alkyl) ether sulphate oryethylenated with 2.2 moles of ethylene oxide, in aqueous solution containing 25% of active substance (AS) 6.2 9 AS - Coconut diethanolamide sold.by the company IKENKEL under the name 1COMPERLAN]M 4 9 - Hydrochloric acid qs pH 5 - Preservative. colourtng, perfume qs - Water qs 100 g On bleached hair which has been washed five times using this shampoo and then exposed for 120 hours to the Suntest. a substantial improvement is observed In the 12 mean value of the 15% extension level In the wet state.

compared with bleached hair which has undergone a similar treatment but with the shampoo base without OUVINUL MS 400 The Suntest test Is performed using a SUNTEST RARAU" apparatus,, which consists of a xenon emitter and a filter system producing a radiation corresponding to a very large extent to solar radiation. The radiation Intensity is approximately 585 W/m2 in the wavelength range between 300 and 830 = (overall radiation).

EXAMPLE-2

A styling foam for protecting the hair is pre pared, having the following composition:

- Vinyl methyl ether/maleic anhydride is copolymer monoesterified with butanol, sold at a concentration of 50% of active substance (AS) in ethanol by the company GENERAL ANILIN under the name 0GANTREZ ES 4251 0.6 g AS Hydroxyethylcellulose grafted with diallyldinethylammonium chloridei sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH under the name ICELQUAT L 200 0.5 g Cationic silicone polymer sold by the company UNION CARBIDE under the name OUCAR SILICONE ALE 56 in aqueous solution containing 35% of active substance (AS) 0.2 g AS sulphonic acid cold by the company BUF under the name OUVINUL MS 40m 0.5 g Ethyl alcohol qs: 10 strength 2-Amino-2-methyl-l-propanol qe pH 7.5 Perfume, colouring. preservative qs Water qs 100 9 The above composition is packaged in an aerosol device:

- Composition 90 g - Freons 121114 (57:43 by weight) 1 " Total 100 g Freon 12 difluorodichloromethane is Freon 114 1,2-dichlorotetrafluoroethane Permanent-waved natural hair receives an application of this foam and then, without this being followed by a rinse, is subjected to 180 hours' exposure to the Suntest. as descriled In Example 1.

Z=paw,,,d with hair of the name nature treated I.n a similar manner but using a foam not containing OUVINUL X5 401 a significant improvement is recorded in the mean value of the 15% extension level In the wet state.

ELE a A styling gel for protecting the hair is prepar ed# having the following composition:

14 sulphonic acid sold by the company BASP under the name OUVINUL ES 400 0.3 g - Xethacrylic acidlmethyl aethacrylate 50:50 copolymer 0.8 g AS Hydroxyethylcellulose grafted with diallyldimethylammonium chloride. sold by the company NATIONAL STARCH under the name CELQUAT L 200m 0.8 9 Cationic silicone polymer sold by the company DOW CORNING under the name CATIONIC EMSION DC 9290.. in aqueous solution containing 35% of active sub stance (AS) 0.3 9 AS is - Ethyl alcohol qs 10' strength - Perfume, colouring, preservative qs - Water qs 100 9 Bleached hair is treated with this styling gel In three applications and Is then# without being rinsed,.

subjected to 120 hours' exposure to the Suntest.

Compared with hair of the same nature treated In the came manner but using the said gel without OUVINUL MS 40# a significant Improvement Is found In the mean value of the 15% extension level in the wet state.

&XAMPLE 4 The styling spray having the following composi tion Is prepared:

Crotonic acid/vinyl 4-tert-butylben soate/vinyl acetate (10s25:65) terpoly mer, prepared according to French Patent No. 2g439,,798 (Ex. 19) 6 g 2-Amino-2-methyl-l-propanol qs for neutralization sulphonic acid sold by the company EMP under the name OUVINUL MS 40" 1 g - Perfume qs - Ethyl alcohol qs 100 g The above composition is packaged in a pump bottle.

One application of this styling spray on bleached is hair which is not rinsed and which is then subjected to hours, exposure to the Suntest enables the mean value of the 15% extension level in -the wet state to be im proved very -appreciably, compared with hair of the same nature which has undergone a similar treatment using a spray of identical composition without OUVINUL MS 400.

EXAMPLE 5

A fluid styling gel for protecting the hair is prepared, having the following composition:

- Cross.linked polyacrylic acid, XW 4,000,000, sold by the company GOODRICH under the name "CARBOPOL 9400 1 16 sulphonic acid sold by the company SUP under the name OUVIMM XS 40 0.3 g DiethylenetriaminepentaaceUc acid pentasodium salt 0.2 g - Triethanolamine qs pH 7 - Perfume, colouring qs - Water qs 100 g As In Example 3,, an Improvement is found in the mean value of the 15% extension level In the wet state.

Claims

17 CLAIMS

1. A process for protecting hair which comprises applying to the hair a cosmetic composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable vehicle and, as active ingredient, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-oulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

2. A process according to Claim 1 in which the cosmetic composition comprises at least 0.3% by weight, calculated as free acid, of 2-hydroxy4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof and is applied to the hair in an amount of at least 30 mg per 9 of hair.

3. A process according to Claim 2 in which the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.3% to 9% by weight, calculated as free acid, of 2hydroxy-4-methoxYbenzophenone- 5-sulphonic acid.

4. A process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the cosmetic composition includes at least one cosmetic adjuvant which is acationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof; a thickener, enionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic polymer or a mixture thereof; an emollient, preservative, foaming agent, foam stabilizer, electrolyte, pH-regulating agent, anti grease agentr sequestering agent, perfume, colouring, propellant or organic solvent.

5. A process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is an aqueous, alcoholic, or aqueous/alcoholic vehicle.

18 -

6. A process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition is presented in the form of a non-rinsed aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic composition and comprises from 0.3 to 5% by weight, calculated as free acid, of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

7. A process according to Claim 6 in which the composition comprises from 0.3 to 3.5% by weight, calculated as free acid, of 2-hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

8. A process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5 in which the composition is presented in the form of a rinsed aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic composition and comprises from 0.5 to 9% by weight calculated as free acid, of 2- hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

9. A process according to Claim 8 in which the composition comprises from 0.5 to 6% by weight, calculated as free acid, of 2-hydroxy-4methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

10. A process according to any one of Claim 1 to 9 in which the salt of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5- sulphonic acid is formed with a metal hydroxide, ammonia or an amine.

11. A process according to any one of the preceding claims in which the composition is presented in the form of a shampoo comprising from 2 to 50% by weight of at least 1. - 19 - 1 one anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof, in an aqueous medium.

12. A process according to any one of Claims 1 to 10 in which the composition is presented in the form of a foam, to he rinsed or otherwise, comprising, in an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic medium, a propellant gas, a foaming agent which is an anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactant, or a mixture thereof; or a nonionic, anionic or cationic polymer, or a mixture thereof; and a polyvinyl alcohol derived from hydrolysed polyvinyl acetate in which the degree of hydrolysis is not more than 97%.

13. A process according to Claim 12 in which the foam comprises a combination of a cationic polymer and an anionic polymer, at least one of which foams in water.

is

14. A process according to any one of the preceding Claims 1 to 10 in which the composition is presented in the form of a spray or lacquer comprising, in an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic medium, a film-forming resin which comprises an anionic polymer including units of acrylic or methacrylic acid, of crotonic acid or of an a-0-unsaturateddicarboxylic acid.

15. A process according to Claim 1 and substantially as hereinbefore described in any one of the Examples.

16. Use, in a pro"ss for preserving the mechanical properties of the hair from degradation by environmental attacking agents or light, of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulphonic acid or a salt thereof.

17. Use according to Claim 16 and substantially as hereinbefore described in any one of the Examples.

18. A cosmetic composition suitable for protecting the hair which comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-oulphonic acid or a salt thereof, and at least one cosmetic adjuvant which is a cationic, anionic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactant or a mixture thereof; a thickener, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or cationic polymer or a mixture thereof; an emollient, preservative, foaming agent, foam stabilizer, electrolyte, pH-regulating agent, anti grease agent, sequestering agent, perfume, colouring, propellant or organic solvent.

19. A cosmetic composition according to Claim 18 and substantially as hereinbefore described in any one of the Examples.

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