GB2035892A - Interlining fabric - Google Patents

Interlining fabric Download PDF

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Publication number
GB2035892A
GB2035892A GB7846505A GB7846505A GB2035892A GB 2035892 A GB2035892 A GB 2035892A GB 7846505 A GB7846505 A GB 7846505A GB 7846505 A GB7846505 A GB 7846505A GB 2035892 A GB2035892 A GB 2035892A
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GB
United Kingdom
Prior art keywords
fibres
fabric
fusible
textile
base layer
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Withdrawn
Application number
GB7846505A
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Wool Development International Ltd
Original Assignee
Wool Development International Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Wool Development International Ltd filed Critical Wool Development International Ltd
Priority to GB7846505A priority Critical patent/GB2035892A/en
Publication of GB2035892A publication Critical patent/GB2035892A/en
Withdrawn legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
    • B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/26—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/06—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer characterised by a fibrous or filamentary layer mechanically connected, e.g. by needling to another layer, e.g. of fibres, of paper
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
    • B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
    • B32B5/022—Non-woven fabric
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/42—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties characterised by the use of certain kinds of fibres insofar as this use has no preponderant influence on the consolidation of the fleece
    • D04H1/4266—Natural fibres not provided for in group D04H1/425
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/46—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres
    • D04H1/48—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres in combination with at least one other method of consolidation
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
    • D04H1/46—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres
    • D04H1/48—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres in combination with at least one other method of consolidation
    • D04H1/485—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres in combination with at least one other method of consolidation in combination with weld-bonding
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/54—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by welding together the fibres, e.g. by partially melting or dissolving
    • D04H1/542—Adhesive fibres
    • D04H1/544—Olefin series
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
    • D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
    • D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
    • D04H1/54—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties by welding together the fibres, e.g. by partially melting or dissolving
    • D04H1/542—Adhesive fibres
    • D04H1/549—Polyamides
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0223—Vinyl resin fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0253—Polyolefin fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2262/00—Composition or structural features of fibres which form a fibrous or filamentary layer or are present as additives
    • B32B2262/02—Synthetic macromolecular fibres
    • B32B2262/0261—Polyamide fibres
    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
    • B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
    • B32B2437/00—Clothing

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Manufacturing Of Multi-Layer Textile Fabrics (AREA)
  • Nonwoven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

Composite non-woven fabrics, suitable for use as garment interlinings, comprise a face layer composed of textile fibres, preferably wool, which is integrated with a base layer composed of further textile fibres, which may also be wool, bonded together by fusible fibres, for example of polypropylene. The fabrics may be made by superimposing a web of the textile fibres of the face on a base web of mixed fusible and other textile fibres and needle-punching the webs into a composite fabric, followed by heating to fuse the fusible fibres. The base layer of the composite fabric preferably contains substantially all the fusible fibres. The fabrics of the invention are less costly to produce than traditional interlinings but have good handle and draping properties.

Description

SPECIFICATION Interlining fabric This invention relates to a composite non-woven fabric which is especially, but not exclusively, suitable for use as a garment interlining fabric.
In the making of a jacket, traditional tailoring techniques require a composite interlining made up of a body canvas, a double shoulder canvas and a piece of felt. The composite is normally positioned in the jacket with the felt side toward the lining and helps hold the shape and drape characteristics of the part of the jacket which it lines, as weli as giving a soft handle to the inside of the forepart of the jacket.
With the advent of fusible interlinings, the normal body canvas is now attached to the jacket front, or forepart, by means of a fusible resin, but a floating chest piece is still used. It is socalled because, unlike the double shoulder piece employed before fusible interlinings were widely used, it is attached to the jacket only down the lapel crease line and in the armhole. The floating chest piece is made from a canvas sheet having a wool felt sheet secured to it by multiple rows of stitching.
The composite chest piece is normally produced by sewing the premade felt to the canvas backing on a zig-zag machine with rows of stitches + inch (about 1 3 mm) apart. This method is costly from the point of view of both labour and material. It has been proposed to fuse the canvas and felt together but it was found that both the handle and drape of the finished product suffer.
The collars of such garments also are given a shaped appearance by the use of an undercollar fabric between the outer material and the lining, if any. The physical properties required in the collar area include stiffness, to support the collar and prevent wrinkling or distortion in wear.
The fabric must have the desired handle and drape characteristics since the sale of clothing depends to a large extent on aesthetic qualities. A further desirable characteristic is that the structure should have felting properties so that stitching close to an edge will not pull out in use.
Traditional undercollar fabrics have been made from a milled woollen "melton" fabric stitched to a canvas in very much the same way as floating chest pieces referred to above. More recently, undercollar fabrics comprising a single layer of a resin-bonded non-woven fabric have been available. While these are very much less expensive than traditional undercollar fabrics, they are generally inferior in both handle and drape qualities. Furthermore, they tend to be rather stiff and are not readily shaped and moulded into the garment by the tailor during making-up.
It is an object of the invention to provide a composite interlining which is less costly to produce than traditional fabrics but which has desirable characteristics in use.
According to the present invention there is provided a method of making a composite nonwoven fabric which comprises superimposing a web of textile fibre on a web of mixed fusible and other textile fibres, consolidating the webs into a fabric and heating the consolidated fabric to fuse the fusible fibres.
The invention also provides a composite non-woven fabric comprising a face layer integrated with a base layer, the face layer being composed of textile fibres, and the base layer being textile fibres fused together by fusible fibres.
Preferably the webs are carded webs, but other ways of forming fibrous webs, e.g. air layering, may be used. The webs are conveniently consolidated into a fabric by needlepunching, but again other methods of integration or consolidation may be used. Preferably the webs are needled from both sides, sufficiently to consolidate them into a fabric but not so much as to cause substantial migration of fibres between the base and face iayers. Consequently the base layer of the fabric will contain substantially all the fusible fibre.
The heating step is advantageously carried out jointly with pressing, e.g. using a flat press or calender rollers, at a temperature high enough to melt the fusible fibres without damaging the fabric.
The textile fibres used may be any natural or synthetic textile fibres, such as acrylic, polyamide, polyester, regenerated cellulosic, natural cellulosic, or mixtures thereof, but especially keratinous fibres such as wool. The fibres in each layer may be the same or different. The fusible fibres are also textile fibres but are made from polymers having a melting point below that of the other textile fibres used. Examples of suitable fusible fibres include those made from certain polyamide, vinyl or ethylenically unsaturated polymers, and polypropylene fibres are especially useful.
The fabric of the invention therefore has a relatively soft, flexible face layer of textile fibres and a stiffer, denser, melded base layer. These qualities make is especially suitable for use as a garment interlining fabric.
It is preferred to use wool as the textile fibre on account of its superior handle and drape properties. Since after the pressing step the fabric may be somewhat flattened, it is desirable to steam the fabric. During steaming, the wool fibres in the face layer recover and give a soft and lofty face to the fabric.
The proportion of fusible fibres used in the base layer is not critical. Between 10 and 40% is generally satisfactory, and 20% has given good results.
The invention will be illustrated by the following Examples.
In each case the fabrics are produced as follows: Fibre Types Wool: Blend of 60% carbonised English noil Type 263C/40% carbonised Australian Type B368.
Acrylic: 5 den, 60 mm unbranded dyed quality.
Polypropylene: 6 den, 35 mm staple.
Needling Conditions Needle Type: 15-18-32 3" Type A Kick-up.
Depth of penetration: 1 2 mm.
Total punches/in2: 936 Bonding Conditions Use a fusing press or calender rolls to heat the fusible fibre to the required temperature.
The preferred conditions when using a fusing press with polypropylene are: press fabric for 45 seconds at about 1 60 C.
Finishing Conditions Steam the bonded fabric to allow the mainly wool face fibre to recover from the effects of pressing.
Examples 1 to 7 The composition of the fabrics is shown in Table I below: TABLE I Base Fibre Face Fibre Example Weight Weight No. Blend (g/m2) Blend (g/m2) Finishing 1 80% wool/ 222.0 100% wool 101.7 Steaming only 20% poly propylene 2 80% wool/ 222.0 100% wool 101.7 Steaming and 20% poly- resin addition" propylene 3 40% wool/ 222.0 100% wool 67.8 Steaming only 40% acrylic/ 20% poly propylene 4 40% wool/ 222.0 100% wool 101.7 Steaming only 40% acrylic/ 20% poly propylene 5 40% wool/ 222.0 100% wool 169.5 Steaming only 40% acrylic/ 20% poly propylene 6 80% acrylic/ 222.0 100% wool 67.8 Steaming only 20% poly propylene 7 80% acrylic/ 222.0 100% wool 100.7 Steaming only 20% poly propylene In the case of Example 2 an additional finishing treatment was used to give the fabric more resilience. An SBR resin (Revinex 76D10) was spray coated to the reverse side of the fabric and to the extent of 10-15% dry solid on the fabric. The coated fabric was dried at 140"C for 3 min.
All these fabrics were eminently suitable for use in garment interlinings. However, if the garment is to be washable, it is preferred to use fabrics such as those of Examples 4, 5 and 6 since these are virtually unaffected by machine washing.

Claims (9)

1. A method of making a composite non-woven fabric which comprises superimposing a web of textile fibre on a web of mixed fusible and other textile fibres, consolidating the webs into a fabric and heating the consolidated fabric to fuse the fusible fibres.
2. A method according to claim 1 wherein the webs are needle-punched from both sides sufficiently to consolidate them into a fabric but not so as to cause substantial migration of fibres between the base and face layers.
3. A method according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the heating is carried out jointly with pressing.
4. A method according to any preceding claim wherein wool is used as the textile fibre.
5. A composite non-woven fabric comprising a face layer integrated with a base layer, the face layer being composed of textile fibres, and the base layer being textile fibres fused together by fusible fibres.
6. A fabric according to claim 5 wherein the base layer of the fabric contains substantially all the fusible fibre.
7. A fabric according to claim 6 wherein the textile fibres comprise keratinous fibres and fusible fibres comprise polyamide, vinyl or ethylenically unsaturated polymer, or polypropylene fibres.
8. A fabric according to claim 5, 6 or 7 wherein the proportion of fusible fibres used in the base layer is between 10 and 40% by weight.
9. A composite non-woven fabric substantially as severally described in any of the Examples herein.
GB7846505A 1978-11-29 1978-11-29 Interlining fabric Withdrawn GB2035892A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB7846505A GB2035892A (en) 1978-11-29 1978-11-29 Interlining fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
GB7846505A GB2035892A (en) 1978-11-29 1978-11-29 Interlining fabric

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
GB2035892A true GB2035892A (en) 1980-06-25

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ID=10501398

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
GB7846505A Withdrawn GB2035892A (en) 1978-11-29 1978-11-29 Interlining fabric

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2554836A1 (en) * 1983-11-10 1985-05-17 Stork Brabant Bv Plastic fabric and process and apparatus for producing it
EP0396296A1 (en) * 1989-05-05 1990-11-07 British United Shoe Machinery Limited Insole material

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2554836A1 (en) * 1983-11-10 1985-05-17 Stork Brabant Bv Plastic fabric and process and apparatus for producing it
EP0396296A1 (en) * 1989-05-05 1990-11-07 British United Shoe Machinery Limited Insole material

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