CA1075449A - Composite lining for garments - Google Patents
Composite lining for garmentsInfo
- Publication number
- CA1075449A CA1075449A CA272,736A CA272736A CA1075449A CA 1075449 A CA1075449 A CA 1075449A CA 272736 A CA272736 A CA 272736A CA 1075449 A CA1075449 A CA 1075449A
- Authority
- CA
- Canada
- Prior art keywords
- fabric
- fibres
- composite
- web
- woven
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired
Links
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
- A41D31/02—Layered materials
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D27/00—Details of garments or of their making
- A41D27/02—Linings
- A41D27/06—Stiffening-pieces
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
- B32B5/02—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer
- B32B5/06—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by structural features of a fibrous or filamentary layer characterised by a fibrous or filamentary layer mechanically connected, e.g. by needling to another layer, e.g. of fibres, of paper
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B5/00—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts
- B32B5/22—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed
- B32B5/24—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer
- B32B5/26—Layered products characterised by the non- homogeneity or physical structure, i.e. comprising a fibrous, filamentary, particulate or foam layer; Layered products characterised by having a layer differing constitutionally or physically in different parts characterised by the presence of two or more layers which are next to each other and are fibrous, filamentary, formed of particles or foamed one layer being a fibrous or filamentary layer another layer next to it also being fibrous or filamentary
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H1/00—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres
- D04H1/40—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties
- D04H1/44—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling
- D04H1/46—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres
- D04H1/498—Non-woven fabrics formed wholly or mainly of staple fibres or like relatively short fibres from fleeces or layers composed of fibres without existing or potential cohesive properties the fleeces or layers being consolidated by mechanical means, e.g. by rolling by needling or like operations to cause entanglement of fibres entanglement of layered webs
-
- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04H—MAKING TEXTILE FABRICS, e.g. FROM FIBRES OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL; FABRICS MADE BY SUCH PROCESSES OR APPARATUS, e.g. FELTS, NON-WOVEN FABRICS; COTTON-WOOL; WADDING ; NON-WOVEN FABRICS FROM STAPLE FIBRES, FILAMENTS OR YARNS, BONDED WITH AT LEAST ONE WEB-LIKE MATERIAL DURING THEIR CONSOLIDATION
- D04H13/00—Other non-woven fabrics
-
- B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
- B32—LAYERED PRODUCTS
- B32B—LAYERED PRODUCTS, i.e. PRODUCTS BUILT-UP OF STRATA OF FLAT OR NON-FLAT, e.g. CELLULAR OR HONEYCOMB, FORM
- B32B2437/00—Clothing
Abstract
TITLE: IMPROVED FABRIC
ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
A composite interlining fabric for garments comprises a close woven or non-woven fabric backing and a web of fibres, preferably wool, needled into the backing fabric from one side.
Garment interlinings may employ canvas backings while melton type collar supports may employ a non-woven backing fabric of synthetic fibres.
ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
A composite interlining fabric for garments comprises a close woven or non-woven fabric backing and a web of fibres, preferably wool, needled into the backing fabric from one side.
Garment interlinings may employ canvas backings while melton type collar supports may employ a non-woven backing fabric of synthetic fibres.
Description
~o~
This inventlon relates to interlinings used in tallor-ing and more particularly relates to composite interlinings used for such purposes as floating chest pieces or collars on jackets.
In the making of a jacket, traditional tailoring tech-niques require a compositc interlining made up of a body canvas, a double shoulder canvas and a piece oE Eelt. The composite is normally positioned in the jacket with the felt side toward the lining and helps hold the shape and drape characteristics of the part of the jacket as well as giving a soft handle to the inside of the foreport of the jacket.
With the advent of fusible interlinings, the normal body canvas is now attached to the jacket front, or forepart, by means of a fusible resin9 but a floating chest piece is still used. It is so-called because, unlike the double shoulder piece employed before fusible interlinings were widely used, it is at-tached to the jacket only down the lapel crease line and in the armhole. The floating chest piece is made from a canvas sheet having a wool felt sheet secured to it by multiple rows of stitch-ing.
The composite chest piece is normally produced by sew-ing the premade felt to the canvas backing on a zig-zag machine with rows of stitches 1/2 inch (about 13 mm) apart. This method is costly from the point of view of both labour and material. It has been proposed to fuse the canvas and felt together but it was found that both the handle and drape of the finished product suffer.
The invention seeks to provide a composite interlining which is less costly to produce and which has desirable character-~ID75~
istics in use.
According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a composite interlining fabric having handle and drape and suitable for a lining, comprising a dense, stiEf, non-woven fabric and a web of felted staple fibres, said web being needled into the face of the fabric such that a mlnor proportion only of the fibres penetrates to the reverse side of the fabric.
Another aspect of the invention provides a method of making a composite interlining fabric, comprising: providing a dense, stiff fabric having handle and drape and suitable for a lining backing, placing a web of staple fibres on a face of the backing, and needlin~ until consolidated into the felt and at-tached such that a minor proportion only of the fibres penetrates to the reverse side of the fabric.
The backing may be a woven or non-woven textile fab-ric, for example a woven fabric similar to that used with felt in conventional composite interlinings. Preferably the backing is a canvas fabric, and the web is of wool fibres.
Thus the method of the invention omits the felt-Z0 making step and replaces the sewing step with a needle-punching operation, conveniently on a standard needle-punching machine.
The composite produced is therefore cheaper than the conventional article, and may have improved handle and drape qualities.
It should be noted that the fabric of the invention has the needle batt primarily on one side only. Some of the fibres from the web will of course be needled through to the re-verse face, but generally less than a quarter of the web will pass through and typically only about 10%. Thus the fabrics of ', ~ ' '. ~ ' ' ~)7S~
the invention are distinguished from needle-felts and the like which have a loosely woven scrim in the centre to add strength.
Not only is the distribution of the needled fibres different from that in needle felts, but the backing used in the present inven-tion is prefera'bly a tightly-woven relatively heavy fabric, as mentioned above.
Apart from use in tailoring as a floating chest piece, the fabric of the invention may be used with advantage, inter alia, to replace the 'melton' composite used for stiffening the collars of jackets.
Melton-type collar support fabrics traditionally comprise a milled woollen woven fabric which is stitched or fused to a canvas. When the - 3a -,, ", :~
1~7S44~9 fabric of tlle inYentiol1 is to be used to rcplace sncl1 collar s-lpport fabrics, it is preferably made hy needling wool fibres to a no~ oven syntl1etic baclcil1g fablic. The ]atter is all-eady available as a collar sllpport fabric in its o~n righ-t Rn~] comprisos needled synthetie fibres togetl1er ~ith a binder. The composite of the invention having sueh a fabric as bac1ciny gives a better drape, more body and sof-ter hnndle th~n collar suppolt Iabrics ~Ised hit1lerto~ and is cheaper to produce than melton-type fabric. An additional advantage is that -the composite of this invention is more easily moulded into shape during tailoring and is thus easier to work with.
In eollars the fabric is positioned so that the wool-rich side is in~Yard. Because of this the fabric is machine washable, provided the res-t of the garment is also machine washable.
A further use for a modified form of the fabric of the invention is for tle purposes of a graded body canvas. ICnowt1 graded canvases are fabrics woven with warp ends of increasing coarseness to~ards one side of the fabric. A body canvas is cut from a piece in the weft direction so that the body canvas is stiffer at the top and becomes less stiff towards the bottom~ which is what is required in making jackets. This may be replaced with a fabrie aecording to this invention w11erein a standard uniform eanvas has a wool batt of graduated thiclcness needled to it, produeing a graded body interlining fabric of superior drape and handle.
The following non-detailed description is given by way of example only.
25 - In the accompanying drawing the single Figure is a diagrammatie cross-section of a lining fabrie aecording to the inventionO
The fabrie l shown in the drawing comprises a woven canvas 2 1~7~4~
and a web 3 of wool fil)res. Thc fibres of thc web hlve bcen needled ;nto the c~:lnVas 2. Some wool fibres 1~ appear ~t the reverse face of the composite fabric~ but the wool tibres are largely confined to one face.
The cross-section of the mclton--type collar lining dcscribed above is simil;lr -to tllat ShO\~'II ill -tlle draw;ng~ except that the woven f.bric structure 2 i9 rcplaccd l)y a close~ bol~dcd~ non-wovcn~ fibrous web.
The following is a practical example of the production of A
typical composite fabric according to this invcnt;on.
Example A composite interlining fabric ~Yas produced on a Garnett-Bywater needle-punching machine using 3-inch (76 mm) 36 9 regular barb needles set for -~-inch (13 mm) penetration. A woollen carded batt of 64~s grade lambswool and noils~ 3-~ oz/sq.yd. ( 13~g/m )~ Yas laid on .m interlining grade canvas fabric and passed through the machine. After needling, the composite was pressed.
The fabric end-product was eminently suitable for use as a floating chest piece, having excellent cohesion and drape together with soft handle~ even on the canvas side of the composite.
.
~, '" ' ' . ' " '.'
This inventlon relates to interlinings used in tallor-ing and more particularly relates to composite interlinings used for such purposes as floating chest pieces or collars on jackets.
In the making of a jacket, traditional tailoring tech-niques require a compositc interlining made up of a body canvas, a double shoulder canvas and a piece oE Eelt. The composite is normally positioned in the jacket with the felt side toward the lining and helps hold the shape and drape characteristics of the part of the jacket as well as giving a soft handle to the inside of the foreport of the jacket.
With the advent of fusible interlinings, the normal body canvas is now attached to the jacket front, or forepart, by means of a fusible resin9 but a floating chest piece is still used. It is so-called because, unlike the double shoulder piece employed before fusible interlinings were widely used, it is at-tached to the jacket only down the lapel crease line and in the armhole. The floating chest piece is made from a canvas sheet having a wool felt sheet secured to it by multiple rows of stitch-ing.
The composite chest piece is normally produced by sew-ing the premade felt to the canvas backing on a zig-zag machine with rows of stitches 1/2 inch (about 13 mm) apart. This method is costly from the point of view of both labour and material. It has been proposed to fuse the canvas and felt together but it was found that both the handle and drape of the finished product suffer.
The invention seeks to provide a composite interlining which is less costly to produce and which has desirable character-~ID75~
istics in use.
According to one aspect of the present invention there is provided a composite interlining fabric having handle and drape and suitable for a lining, comprising a dense, stiEf, non-woven fabric and a web of felted staple fibres, said web being needled into the face of the fabric such that a mlnor proportion only of the fibres penetrates to the reverse side of the fabric.
Another aspect of the invention provides a method of making a composite interlining fabric, comprising: providing a dense, stiff fabric having handle and drape and suitable for a lining backing, placing a web of staple fibres on a face of the backing, and needlin~ until consolidated into the felt and at-tached such that a minor proportion only of the fibres penetrates to the reverse side of the fabric.
The backing may be a woven or non-woven textile fab-ric, for example a woven fabric similar to that used with felt in conventional composite interlinings. Preferably the backing is a canvas fabric, and the web is of wool fibres.
Thus the method of the invention omits the felt-Z0 making step and replaces the sewing step with a needle-punching operation, conveniently on a standard needle-punching machine.
The composite produced is therefore cheaper than the conventional article, and may have improved handle and drape qualities.
It should be noted that the fabric of the invention has the needle batt primarily on one side only. Some of the fibres from the web will of course be needled through to the re-verse face, but generally less than a quarter of the web will pass through and typically only about 10%. Thus the fabrics of ', ~ ' '. ~ ' ' ~)7S~
the invention are distinguished from needle-felts and the like which have a loosely woven scrim in the centre to add strength.
Not only is the distribution of the needled fibres different from that in needle felts, but the backing used in the present inven-tion is prefera'bly a tightly-woven relatively heavy fabric, as mentioned above.
Apart from use in tailoring as a floating chest piece, the fabric of the invention may be used with advantage, inter alia, to replace the 'melton' composite used for stiffening the collars of jackets.
Melton-type collar support fabrics traditionally comprise a milled woollen woven fabric which is stitched or fused to a canvas. When the - 3a -,, ", :~
1~7S44~9 fabric of tlle inYentiol1 is to be used to rcplace sncl1 collar s-lpport fabrics, it is preferably made hy needling wool fibres to a no~ oven syntl1etic baclcil1g fablic. The ]atter is all-eady available as a collar sllpport fabric in its o~n righ-t Rn~] comprisos needled synthetie fibres togetl1er ~ith a binder. The composite of the invention having sueh a fabric as bac1ciny gives a better drape, more body and sof-ter hnndle th~n collar suppolt Iabrics ~Ised hit1lerto~ and is cheaper to produce than melton-type fabric. An additional advantage is that -the composite of this invention is more easily moulded into shape during tailoring and is thus easier to work with.
In eollars the fabric is positioned so that the wool-rich side is in~Yard. Because of this the fabric is machine washable, provided the res-t of the garment is also machine washable.
A further use for a modified form of the fabric of the invention is for tle purposes of a graded body canvas. ICnowt1 graded canvases are fabrics woven with warp ends of increasing coarseness to~ards one side of the fabric. A body canvas is cut from a piece in the weft direction so that the body canvas is stiffer at the top and becomes less stiff towards the bottom~ which is what is required in making jackets. This may be replaced with a fabrie aecording to this invention w11erein a standard uniform eanvas has a wool batt of graduated thiclcness needled to it, produeing a graded body interlining fabric of superior drape and handle.
The following non-detailed description is given by way of example only.
25 - In the accompanying drawing the single Figure is a diagrammatie cross-section of a lining fabrie aecording to the inventionO
The fabrie l shown in the drawing comprises a woven canvas 2 1~7~4~
and a web 3 of wool fil)res. Thc fibres of thc web hlve bcen needled ;nto the c~:lnVas 2. Some wool fibres 1~ appear ~t the reverse face of the composite fabric~ but the wool tibres are largely confined to one face.
The cross-section of the mclton--type collar lining dcscribed above is simil;lr -to tllat ShO\~'II ill -tlle draw;ng~ except that the woven f.bric structure 2 i9 rcplaccd l)y a close~ bol~dcd~ non-wovcn~ fibrous web.
The following is a practical example of the production of A
typical composite fabric according to this invcnt;on.
Example A composite interlining fabric ~Yas produced on a Garnett-Bywater needle-punching machine using 3-inch (76 mm) 36 9 regular barb needles set for -~-inch (13 mm) penetration. A woollen carded batt of 64~s grade lambswool and noils~ 3-~ oz/sq.yd. ( 13~g/m )~ Yas laid on .m interlining grade canvas fabric and passed through the machine. After needling, the composite was pressed.
The fabric end-product was eminently suitable for use as a floating chest piece, having excellent cohesion and drape together with soft handle~ even on the canvas side of the composite.
.
~, '" ' ' . ' " '.'
Claims (7)
PROPERTY OR PRIVILEGE IS CLAIMED ARE DEFINED AS FOLLOWS:
1. A composite interlining fabric having handle and drape and suitable for a lining, comprising a dense, stiff, non-woven fabric and a web of felted staple fibres, said web being needled into the face of the fabric such that a minor proportion only of the fibres penetrates to the reverse side of the fabric.
2. A composite fabric according to Claim 1, wherein less than a quarter of the web fibres pass through said fabric.
3. A composite fabric according to Claim 1, wherein said fabric is a non-woven fabric of synthetic fibres.
4. A method of making a composite interlining fabric, comprising:
providing a dense, stiff fabric having handle and drape and suitable for a lining backing, placing a web of staple fibres on a face of the backing, and needling until consolidated into the felt and attached such that a minor pro-portion only of the fibres penetrates to the reverse side of the fabric.
providing a dense, stiff fabric having handle and drape and suitable for a lining backing, placing a web of staple fibres on a face of the backing, and needling until consolidated into the felt and attached such that a minor pro-portion only of the fibres penetrates to the reverse side of the fabric.
5. A method according to Claim 4, wherein less than a quarter of the web fibres pass through the fabric.
6. A method according to Claim 4, wherein the fabric is a non-woven fabric of synthetic fibres.
7. A garment having an interlining formed of a fabric as defined in Claim 1, 2 or 3.
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| GB785976 | 1976-02-27 |
Publications (1)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| CA1075449A true CA1075449A (en) | 1980-04-15 |
Family
ID=9841171
Family Applications (1)
| Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
|---|---|---|---|
| CA272,736A Expired CA1075449A (en) | 1976-02-27 | 1977-02-25 | Composite lining for garments |
Country Status (3)
| Country | Link |
|---|---|
| JP (1) | JPS52107366A (en) |
| CA (1) | CA1075449A (en) |
| DE (2) | DE2708156A1 (en) |
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| WO2022094184A3 (en) * | 2020-10-30 | 2022-07-21 | Nike Innovate C.V. | Printed composite nonwoven textile suitable for apparel and methods for producing the same |
| EP4311668A3 (en) * | 2020-04-21 | 2024-04-10 | NIKE Innovate C.V. | Textile having insulation zones and pile zones |
Families Citing this family (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| FR2673204B1 (en) * | 1991-02-25 | 1995-03-24 | Picardie Lainiere | COMPOSITE LINING TEXTILE AND MANUFACTURING METHOD THEREOF. |
| IT1298629B1 (it) * | 1998-03-16 | 2000-01-12 | Federico Aspesi S R L | Metodo e apparecchiatura per il trattamento di materiali tessili finiti |
-
1977
- 1977-02-25 CA CA272,736A patent/CA1075449A/en not_active Expired
- 1977-02-25 DE DE19772708156 patent/DE2708156A1/en not_active Withdrawn
- 1977-02-25 JP JP1941077A patent/JPS52107366A/en active Pending
- 1977-02-25 DE DE7705773U patent/DE7705773U1/en not_active Expired
Cited By (2)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| EP4311668A3 (en) * | 2020-04-21 | 2024-04-10 | NIKE Innovate C.V. | Textile having insulation zones and pile zones |
| WO2022094184A3 (en) * | 2020-10-30 | 2022-07-21 | Nike Innovate C.V. | Printed composite nonwoven textile suitable for apparel and methods for producing the same |
Also Published As
| Publication number | Publication date |
|---|---|
| DE2708156A1 (en) | 1977-09-01 |
| JPS52107366A (en) | 1977-09-08 |
| DE7705773U1 (en) | 1977-08-25 |
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Legal Events
| Date | Code | Title | Description |
|---|---|---|---|
| MKEX | Expiry |