FR3150436A3 - COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION TO REVITALIZE HAIR - Google Patents

Abstract

COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION FOR CONDITIONING HAIR The present invention relates to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion for conditioning hair: a) at least one compound selected from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives; b) at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener; and c) at least 20% by weight of at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. The present invention also relates to a process for conditioning hair comprising applying the composition as described above to the hair. Figure for abstract: none

Description

COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF AN OIL-IN-WATER EMULSION TO REVITALIZE HAIR

The present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition. In particular, the present invention relates to a hair conditioning composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The present invention also relates to a hair conditioning process.

STATE OF THE ART

Hair is generally damaged and weakened by the action of external atmospheric agents such as light, weather conditions and/or the action of mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and/or straightening.

There are many products developed to revitalize hair.

Hair oils and leave-in conditioners are the main products in the leave-in category. Hair oils are the most popular leave-in conditioner and are preferred by consumers due to their high cosmetic effect and shine, although some consumers are concerned about their greasy feel. Some consumers prefer leave-in conditioners because of their lightweight feel.

Therefore, there is a need for a leave-in product that can deliver good revitalizing effects, shine and a feeling of lightness to the hair.

It is also desirable that the product be stable.

An object of the present invention is therefore to develop a leave-in product to revitalize hair, which is stable and can provide hair with good revitalizing effects, shine and a feeling of lightness.

Another object of the present invention is to propose a hair revitalization process.

1. au moins un composé choisi parmi les silicones solubles dans l’eau et leurs dérivés ;
2. au moins un épaississant anionique non carboxylique; et
3. au moins 20 % en poids d’au moins une huile, par rapport au poids total de la composition.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the present invention proposes a composition in the form of a hair revitalizing emulsion comprising:

1. at least one compound chosen from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives;
2. at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener; and
3. at least 20% by weight of at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the present invention is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. Thus, said composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase and a dispersed oily phase.

The inventors have now discovered that the composition of the present invention is stable and can provide hair with high levels of revitalization, shine, and a feeling of lightness.

According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair revitalization process comprising the application of the composition as described above to the hair.

Other subjects and features, aspects and advantages of the present invention will become even clearer upon reading the detailed description and examples that follow.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

In this document, unless otherwise stated, the limits of a range of values are included in that range, in particular in the expressions "between…and…" and "from…to…".

In this document, the term "including" should be interpreted as encompassing all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional, unspecified features.

As used here, the use of the term "including" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than those specifically mentioned are present (i.e., "consisting of").

Unless otherwise defined, all technical and scientific terms used in this document have the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the invention. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly accepted by a person skilled in the art of the invention, the definition described in this document shall prevail.

Unless otherwise specified, all numerical values expressing quantities of ingredients and other substances used in the description and claims should be understood as modified by the term "approximately". Therefore, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described in this document are approximate values that may be modified to achieve the desired performance as required.

In this document, the expression "at least one" used in this description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion and comprises:

a) at least one compound selected from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives;

b) at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener; and

c) at least 20% by weight of at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Compounds selected from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one compound selected from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives.

In one embodiment, the (a) compound is selected from water-soluble silicones.

Water-soluble silicones have a solubility in water, measured at 25 °C, of at least 0.5% by weight. If the final appearance of the water in which a silicone is mixed to a certain concentration is transparent or clear, it is determined that the silicone has solubility at that concentration. Thus, water-soluble silicone as a compound (a) can be dissolved in water such that the concentration of water-soluble silicone in the water is 0.5% by weight or more.

Silicone oils can be selected from polysiloxanes comprising at least one terminal or pendant monovalent polyoxyalkylene group, which can be classified as polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones or polyether-modified silicones. Polysiloxanes may include polydimethylsiloxane.

Polyoxyalkylene-modified silicones or polyether-modified silicones can be represented by formula (1):

R ² ₃ SiO(R ² ₂ SiO) _p (R ² PESiO) _q SiR ² ₃ (1)

in which:

The ^R2 radicals, which are identical or different, designate a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from among the alkyl, aryl and aralkyl radicals having at most 10 carbon atoms;

p varies from 0 to 150, preferably from 0 to 100 and more preferably from 0 to 30;

q varies from 1 to 12, preferably from 1 to 10 and more preferably from 1 to 8;

The polyether group PE corresponds to the following formula (2):

-C _x H _2x (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _y (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _z OR ³ (2)

in which:

x varies from 1 to 8 and varies preferably from 2 to 4 and is most preferably equal to 3;

y is greater than 0;

z is greater than or equal to 0; the values of y and z being such that the total molecular weight of the polyoxyalkylene portion of the PE polyether group varies from 200 to 10000 and more preferentially from 350 to 4000;

^R3 denotes hydrogen, a _C1 - _C8 alkyl group or a _C2 - _C8 acyl group.

It should be noted that, when z is different from 0, the polyoxyethylene and polyoxypropylene motifs may be randomly distributed along the PE polyether chain or distributed in sequences or distributed both in sequences and randomly.

Preferably, the ^R2 radicals are chosen from _C1 - _C4 alkyl groups and hexyl, phenyl, and benzyl groups. More specifically, the ^R2 radicals are chosen from alkyl groups, such as methyl, ethyl, or butyl groups. In particular, they designate the methyl radical.

Preferably, the ^R3 radicals are chosen from among the alkyl groups in _C1 - _C4 and more particularly designate the methyl radical.

Water-soluble silicones of formula (1) can be obtained according to the process described in US patent document No. 4,847,398.

It is preferable to use, among the water-soluble silicones of formula (1), those of the following formula (1'):

Me ₃ SiO(MeSiO) _p (MePESiO) _q SiMe ₃ (1')

in which

p and q have the same values as those indicated above for formula (1),

Me designates the methyl radical, and

PE stands for:

-(CH ₂ ) ₃ (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _y (OC ₃ H ₆ ) OR ³ (2')

Or

y and z have the same values as those given above for formula (2), and

^R3 designates hydrogen or an alkyl group in _C1 - _C4 and more particularly the methyl radical.

Mention may be made, as other families of water-soluble silicones which can be used according to the present invention, of branched silicones of the following formula (3):

(MeSiO) _q-2 [SiOMe ₂ ) _p/q OPE] _q (3)

Or

p and q have the same values as those indicated above in formula (1), Me means methyl and PE denotes the group with the following formula (4):

-(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _y (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _z R ³ (4)

Or

y and z have the same values as those indicated above in formula (2), and

^R3 designates an alkyl group in _C1 - _C4 and more specifically the methyl radical.

It is of course possible to use a mixture of silicones of formula (1) and formula (3).

These polyether-modified silicones are sold, for example, by OSI under the trade names Silwet L-7210® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silwet L- ^7220® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol); Silwet L-7002 ^® , Silwet L-7600 ^® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silwet L-7604® (INCI name: PEG-8 Dimethicone), Silwet L-7605 ^® , Silwet L-7607 ^® , Silwet 1614, Silwet L-7657 ^® , Silwet L-7200 ^® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silwet L-7230 ^® , Silsoft 305 ^® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silsoft 820 ^® (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol), Silsoft 880 ^® (INCI name: PEG-12 Dimethicone), Tego Wet 260 ^® , Tego Wet 500 ^® , Tego Wet 505 ^® and Tego Wet 510 ^® .

Examples of polyether-modified silicones include PEG-10 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-32 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the (a) compound is selected from water-soluble silicone derivatives.

The water-soluble silicone derivative may be a water-soluble silicone in which at least one substituent is linked to the polysiloxane backbone of the water-soluble silicone, preferably instead of a methyl group on the polydimethylsiloxane backbone.

Examples of substituents include an alkyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group, an amino group, and a hydroxyl group.

The alkyl group can be linear, branched, or cyclic. It can be a linear or branched _C1 - _C6 alkyl group, preferably a _C1 - _C4 alkyl group, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl, i-propyl, or butyl group. Alternatively, it can be a cyclic _C3 - _C6 alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl or cyclohexyl group.

The alkenyl group can be a _C2 - _C6 alkenyl group such as a vinyl group, an allyl group, a butylene group, a pentenyl group, and a hexenyl group.

The alkoxy group can be a _C1 - _C6 alkoxy group such as a methoxy group, an ethoxy group and a propoxy group.

The above substituent can further be substituted by at least one group such as a halogen atom, an amino group, a nitro group, a cyano group, a hydroxyl group and an aromatic group such as a phenyl group.

Examples of water-soluble modified silicone derivatives include cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone and mixtures thereof.

In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone.

In certain particularly preferred embodiments, the composition according to the present invention comprises PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone.

Advantageously, the compound chosen from among water-soluble silicones and their derivatives is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight, most preferably from 0.03% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-carboxylic anionic thickeners

According to the first aspect, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-carboxylic agent" means an agent which does not include any carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate ( ^-COO- ) function.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickener" means a compound which increases the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, by at least 20 cps, preferably by at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25 °C), at atmospheric pressure and at a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone/plate viscometer, a Haake R600 rheometer or similar).

Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickener(s) are chosen from among non-carboxylic anionic polymers, more preferably from among anionic polymers bearing one or more sulfonic groups.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "anionic polymer" means a polymer comprising one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and not comprising any cationic or cationizable groups.

Advantageously, the non-carboxylic anionic thickener(s) are chosen from anionic polymers including at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer bearing a sulfonic group, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form.

These polymers can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked. They are preferentially cross-linked.

These polymers can be associative or non-associative, preferably non-associative.

It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous environment, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure includes, in particular, at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

The term "hydrophobic group" refers to a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group can be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, or decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer, for example, polybutadiene.

Ethyl unsaturated monomers bearing a sulfonic group are notably selected from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido( _C1 - _C22 )alkylsulfonic acids, and other acids.
N-( _C1 - _C22 )alkyl(meth)acrylamido( _C1 - _C22 )alkylsulfonics such as undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms.

(Meth)acrylamido( _C1 - _C22 )alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid,
2-Methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used more preferentially.

2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms, will be used in particular.

Among the copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, mention may be made of the partially or totally neutralized crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylamide; in particular, the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 may be cited, and reference may be made to said document concerning these polymers.

We can also mention copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or its salts and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the compound sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

Associative AMPS polymers may be selected from statistically modified associative AMPS polymers _, such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154 (which form part of the description). These polymers may also contain other hydrophilic _, ethylenically unsaturated monomers selected, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, such as their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.

The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from among the associative copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer.

These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acid derivatives, including their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.

• Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, no 40, (2000), 323-336 ;
• Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering,Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 3694-3704 ;
• Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior –Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, no 12, 5324-5332 ;
• Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers,Polym.Preprint, Div. Polym.Chem. 40(2), (1999), 220-221.

These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A 750 899, US patent 5 089 578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

• Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, no. 40, (2000), 323-336;
• Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules , 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 3694-3704;
• Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior – Langmuir , 2000, Vol. 16, no. 12, 5324-5332;
• Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym . Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 40(2), (1999), 220-221.

• les copolymères réticulés ou non réticulés, neutralisés ou non neutralisés, comprenant de 15 % à 60 % en poids de motifs AMPS et de 40 % à 85 % en poids de motifs (C₈-C₁₆)alkyl(méth)acrylamide ou (C₈-C₁₆)alkyl(méth)acrylate par rapport au polymère, tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A750 899 ;
• les terpolymères comprenant de 10 % en mol à 90 % en mol de motifs acrylamide, de 0,1 % en mol à 10 % en mol de motifs AMPS et de 5 % en mol à 80 % en mol de motifs n-(C₆-C₁₈)alkylacrylamide, tels que ceux décrits dans le brevet US-5 089 578.

Examples of these polymers include:

• crosslinked or noncrosslinked, neutralized or non-neutralized copolymers comprising 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS motifs and 40% to 85% by weight of ( _C8 - _C16 )alkyl(meth)acrylamide or ( _C8 - _C16 )alkyl(meth)acrylate motifs relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A750 899;
• terpolymers comprising 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide motifs, 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS motifs and 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-( _C6 - _C18 )alkylacrylamide motifs, such as those described in US patent 5,089,578.

Other examples include copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above. Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickener is selected from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Most preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises a sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, for example, that sold by the company SEPPIC (INCI name hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

Advantageously, the non-carboxylic anionic thickener is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight, more preferably from 0.05% by weight to 2.5% by weight, most preferably from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention comprises a continuous aqueous phase.

The said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 50% by weight, more preferably from 20% by weight to 45% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 10% by weight to 45% by weight, preferably from 20% by weight to 42% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The continuous aqueous phase may include water, at least one organic solvent miscible with water, or mixtures thereof.

Optionally, the continuous aqueous phase includes at least one water-miscible organic solvent (at room temperature 25 °C) such as, for example, monoalcohols having 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerin, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol ( _C1 - _C4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol ( _C1 - _C4 ) alkyl ethers and mixtures thereof.

If present, the composition of the present invention comprises 10% by weight to 35% by weight of an organic solvent miscible with water mentioned above, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Oily phase

As an oil-in-water emulsion, the composition of the present invention further comprises at least one dispersed oil phase.

The oily phase contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

The term "oil" refers to a non-aqueous compound that is immiscible with water and is liquid at room temperature (20 °C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "non-volatile" refers to an oil whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than ^10⁻³ mmHg (0.13 Pa).

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.

The oily phase may include hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and in particular, at least one Si-O group.

The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" refers to an oil containing primarily hydrogen and carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferable that the hydrocarbon-based oil be an alkane.

Oils may optionally include atoms of oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Preferably, the oil phase comprises an oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils and non-volatile oils, such as silicone oil and ester oils.

More preferably, the oily phase comprises an oil chosen from among the alkanes, such as isododecane; dimethicones; dimethiconols; alkyl methicones with the alkyl comprising 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as caprylyl methicone and its mixture.

Advantageously, the oily phase is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 20% by weight to 90% by weight, from 40% by weight to 90% by weight, from 50% by weight to 90% by weight, preferably from 55% by weight to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of the present invention.

Active cosmetic ingredients

Optionally, the composition of the present invention may include another cosmetic active ingredient to revitalize hair, for example an amino acid, a hydrolyzed protein, sodium hyaluronate, etc.

If present, advantageously, the cosmetic active ingredient is present in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 2% by weight, more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Adjuvants

The composition according to the present invention may also include an effective amount of other ingredients, such as perfumes, preservatives, and so on.

A person skilled in the art can choose the quantity of additional adjuvants so as not to have a negative impact on the final use of the composition according to the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides a hair revitalizing oil-in-water emulsion composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 0.02% by weight to 3% by weight of at least one compound selected from PEG-10 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-32 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, and a mixture of these;

b) from 0.05% by weight to 2.5% by weight of at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener selected from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer; and

c) from 20% by weight to 90% by weight of at least one oil.

1. de 0,03 % en poids à 1 % en poids d’au moins un composé choisi parmi PEG-10 méthyl éther diméthicone, PEG-11 méthyl éther diméthicone, PEG-32 méthyl éther diméthicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 diméthicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 diméthicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 diméthicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl éther diméthicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 diméthicone, PEG-9 diméthicone, PEG-10 diméthicone, PEG-12 diméthicone, et un mélange de ceux-ci ;

1. de 0,1 % en poids à 1 % en poids d’au moins un épaississant anionique non carboxylique choisi parmi un copolymère acrylamide/acryloyl diméthyl taurate de sodium, un copolymère acrylate d’hydroxyéthyle/acryloyl diméthyl taurate de sodium et un copolymère acrylate de sodium/acryloyl diméthyl taurate de sodium ;et
2. de 55 % en poids à 80 % en poids d'au moins une huile.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the present invention proposes a composition in the form of an oil-in-water hair revitalizing emulsion comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

1. from 0.03% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one compound selected from PEG-10 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-32 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, and a mixture of these;

1. from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener selected from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer; and
2. from 55% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one oil.

Preparation and use

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by a conventional process of preparing an oil-in-water emulsion in the art, for example, by mixing ingredients for the aqueous phase to prepare the aqueous phase, and by mixing ingredients for the oily phase to prepare the oily phase, and by introducing the oily phase into the aqueous phase.

The composition according to the present invention can be used as a leave-in or rinse-out conditioning product for hair care.

According to a second aspect, the present invention proposes a hair revitalization process comprising the application of the composition as described above to the hair.

EXAMPLES

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the present invention and shall not be construed as limiting the scope.

The main raw materials used, trade names and their suppliers are listed in Table 1.

INCI Name Trade name Supplier PEG-11 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE KF-6011 SHIN ETSU HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER SEPINOV EMT 10 SEPPIC HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE NATROSOL 250 HHR CS ASHLAND XANTHAN GUM KELTROL CG CP KELCO BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE GENAMIN KDMP CLARIFYING LAURETH-23 SP BRIJ L23 MBAL-PA-(RB) CRODA DIMETHICONE DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 350 CST DOW DIMETHICONOL DOWSIL SH 200 C FLUID 350 CST DOW ISODODECANE ISODODECANE INEOS CAPRYLYL METHICONE DOWSIL FZ-3196 FLUID DOW

Inventive Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-5

The compositions according to inventive example (IE.) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE.) 1-5 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 2 (the contents are expressed as weight percentages of ingredients relative to the total weight of each composition, unless otherwise indicated).

Ingredients EI.1 EI.2 EC.1 EC.2 EC.2 EC.4 EC.5 HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 HYDROXYETHYL CELLULOSE 0.6 XANTHAN GUM 0.6 PEG-11 METHYL ETHER DIMETHICONE
0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.12 BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 0.12 LAURETH-23 0.12 DIMETHICONE 11.1 3.7 1.85 11.1 11.1 11.1 11.1 DIMETHICONOL 4.95 1.65 0.75 4.95 4.95 4.95 4.95 ISODODECANE 28.5 9.5 4.75 28.5 28.5 28.5 28.5 CAPRYLYL METHICONE 15.89 5.3 2.65 15.89 15.89 15.89 15.89 WATER QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100

The composition of Inventive Examples 1-2 represents compositions according to the present invention.

The composition of comparative example 1 includes only 10% oil.

The composition of comparative example 2 includes hydroxyethylcellulose instead of at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener.

The composition of comparative example 3 includes xanthan gum instead of at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener.

The composition of comparative example 4 includes behentrimonium chloride instead of at least one compound selected from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives.

The composition of comparative example 5 includes laureth-23 instead of at least one compound selected from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives.

Preparation procedure :

• dissolution du PEG-11 MÉTHYL ÉTHYL MÉTHICONE dans de l’eau pour obtenir un mélange ; et
• dispersion du COPOLYMÈRE ACRYLATE D’HYDROXYÉTHYL/
  ACRYLOYLDIMÉTHYL TAURATE DE SODIUM dans le mélange avec agitation pour obtenir une phase aqueuse ;
• mélange de diméthicone, diméthiconol, isododécane et CAPRYLYL METHICONE pour obtenir une phase huileuse ; et
• introduction lente de la phase huileuse dans la phase aqueuse avec agitation pendant 10 minutes pour obtenir la composition.

Each composition was prepared as follows, taking as an example that of inventive example 1:

• dissolving PEG-11 METHYL ETHYL METHICONE in water to obtain a mixture; and
• dispersion of HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE COPOLYMER/
  SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE in the mixture with stirring to obtain an aqueous phase;
• a mixture of dimethicone, dimethiconol, isododecane and caprylyl methicone to obtain an oily phase; and
• Slow introduction of the oily phase into the aqueous phase with agitation for 10 minutes to obtain the composition.

Assessment

The compositions prepared above were evaluated in terms of stability, revitalizing effect, shine and feeling of lightness as follows.

Stability

The stability of each composition of the inventive examples (IE.) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE.) 1-5 was evaluated by leaving the composition at 45°C for 2 months and then observing the appearance.

If the aqueous phase and the oily phase are separated after storage at 45°C for 2 months, the composition is not stable and the stability is assessed as "FAILURE".

If the aqueous phase and the oily phase are not separated after storage at 45°C for 2 months, then the composition is stable and the stability is assessed as “SUCCESS”.

The stability results of each composition of inventive examples (IE.) 1-2 and comparative examples (CE.) 1-5 are summarized in Table 3.

Properties EI.1 EI.2 EC. 1 EC. 2 EC. 3 EC. 4 EC. 5 Stability SUCCESS SUCCESS FAILURE FAILURE FAILURE FAILURE FAILURE

According to Table 3, we can see that the composition of inventive example 1 is stable.

Revitalizing effect, shine and a feeling of lightness

The revitalizing effect, the shine and the lightness provided by each composition of the inventive example (IE.) 1-2 and the comparative examples (EC.) 1 were evaluated according to the protocol.

Strand: strand of moderately damaged Chinese hair (colored twice) (6 g)

Application: Apply to damp hair

Dosage: 0.12 g/wick

Hair panel evaluation: 2 scientists and 2 hairdressers

The scores were given according to the following standard:

Score 1: extremely unacceptable

Score 2: unacceptable

Score 3: acceptable

Score 4: slightly preferred

Score 5: Highly preferred

The results are summarized in Table 4.

Properties EI.1 EI.2 EC.1 Revitalizing effect 5 3 3 A feeling of lightness 3 4 5 Brilliance 5 3 2

Table 4 shows that the compositions of inventive examples 1-2 can provide hair with a good combination of revitalizing effect, shine and feeling of lightness.

Claims (10)

Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion to revitalize hair, comprising:
a) at least one compound selected from water-soluble silicones and their derivatives;
b) at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener; and
c) at least 20% by weight of at least one oil, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1, wherein compound a) is selected from water-soluble silicones, preferably selected from polyether-modified silicones. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, wherein compound a) is selected from the silicones represented by formula (1):
R ² ₃ SiO(R ² ₂ SiO) _p (R ² PESiO) _q SiR ² ₃ (1)
in which:
The ^R2 radicals, which are identical or different, designate a monovalent hydrocarbon radical chosen from among the alkyl, aryl and aralkyl radicals having at most 10 carbon atoms;
p varies from 0 to 150, preferably from 0 to 100 and more preferably from 0 to 30;
q varies from 1 to 12, preferably from 1 to 10 and more preferably from 1 to 8;
The polyether group PE corresponds to the following formula (2):
-C _x H _2x (OC ₂ H ₄ ) _y (OC ₃ H ₆ ) _z OR ³ (2)
in which:
x varies from 1 to 8 and varies preferably from 2 to 4 and is most preferably equal to 3;
y is greater than 0;
z is greater than or equal to 0; the values of y and z being such that the total molecular weight of the polyoxyalkylene portion of the PE polyether group varies from 200 to 10000 and more preferentially from 350 to 4000;
^R3 denotes hydrogen, a _C1 - _C8 alkyl group or a _C2 - _C8 acyl group. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein compound a) is selected from PEG-10 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-32 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the non-carboxylic anionic thickener is selected from associative copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the non-carboxylic anionic thickener is selected from an acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, a sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claim 6, wherein the oily phase comprises an oil selected from volatile hydrocarbon oils and non-volatile oils, such as silicone oil and ester oils, preferably the oily phase comprises an oil selected from alkanes; dimethicones; dimethiconols; and alkyl methicones with the alkyl comprising 4-10 carbon atoms. Composition according to claim 1, comprising, in relation to the total weight of the composition:
a) from 0.03% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one compound selected from PEG-10 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG-32 methyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-19/19 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/20 dimethicone, PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone, PEG/PPG-30/10 dimethicone, PEG-9 dimethicone, PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, and a mixture of these;
b) from 0.1% by weight to 1% by weight of at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickener selected from acrylamide/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer, hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer and sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer; and
c) from 55% by weight to 80% by weight of at least one oil. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, which is a no-rinse product. Hair revitalization process comprising the application of a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9 to the hair.