FR3145093A1 - STABLE NON-STICKY AND NON-GREASY COMPOSITION WITH TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION PROPERTY - Google Patents

Abstract

Stable non-sticky and non-greasy composition with texture transforming property The present invention relates to a composition comprising: (a) at least one cellulose particle; (b) at least one associative polymer comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units; (c) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter and (d) water. The composition according to the present invention is stable and can exhibit a non-existent or reduced sticky feeling, as well as a non-existent or reduced oily/greasy feeling, and a non-existent or reduced glossy appearance, after application, in addition to a texture transformation during the application. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

STABLE, NON-STICKY AND NON-GREASY COMPOSITION WITH TEXTURE TRANSFORMATION PROPERTY

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, which is stable and can exhibit a texture transformation as well as a non-sticky, non-greasy and non-shiny appearance.

PRIOR ART

Giving the skin a comfortable texture is one of the key features of cosmetic products, especially skin care cosmetic products.

In particular, a texture transformation (texture change, e.g. from a gel or cream to a liquid, which corresponds to the change in the physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which could allow liquid to flow out of the composition) which could provide a refreshing sensation at the beginning of application, as well as a non-sticky sensation or a reduced sticky sensation after application, remains necessary to satisfy the consumer during use.

It should be noted that a composition that is unstable and easily causes the structure of the composition to collapse often provides a comfortable feeling when using. This means that it is difficult to provide both a comfortable feeling when using and good stability at the same time.

So far, several technologies relating to gel-like compositions or emulsion compositions that provide improved texture and stability have been reported. For example, WO2022/124385 discloses a stable composition that can exhibit texture transformation.

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION

However, sufficient research has not yet been conducted regarding stable compositions that may exhibit no or reduced sticky feel, as well as no or reduced oily/greasy feel, and no or reduced glossy appearance, after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.

An objective of the present invention is to provide a stable composition which can exhibit no or reduced sticky feeling, as well as no or reduced oily/greasy feeling, and no or reduced glossy appearance, after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.

1. au moins une particule de cellulose ;
2. au moins un polymère associatif comprenant un ou plusieurs motifs acryliques et/ou méthacryliques ;
3. au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile ; et
4. de l'eau.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition and more preferably a cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:

1. at least one cellulose particle;
2. at least one associative polymer comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;
3. at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and
4. water.

The particle size of the cellulose particles (a) may be 50 μm or less, preferably 30 μm or less, and more preferably 10 μm or less.

The cellulose particle (a) may have

a wetting point for the oil of at least 40 ml/100 g, preferably at least 50 ml/100 g and more preferably at least 60 ml/100 g, and

a wetting point for water of at least 100 ml/100 g, preferably at least 200 ml/100 g and more preferably at least 300 ml/100 g.

The ratio of the wet point for water to the wet point for oil of the cellulose particle (a) may be 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, and more preferably 2 or less.

The cellulose particle (a) may be spherical.

The amount of the cellulose particle(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The associative polymer (b) may comprise one or more _C1 - _C12 alkyl ester units of (meth)acrylic acid.

The associative polymer (b) may comprise one or more units derived from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols.

The amount of the associative polymer(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The lipophilic organic UV filter (c) may be selected from the group consisting of drometrizole trisiloxane, bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and a mixture thereof.

The amount of lipophilic organic UV filters (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, and more preferably, polyglycerol monoesters of fatty acids.

The amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil different from the lipophilic organic UV filter (c).

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratin substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered a novel approach to provide a stable composition that can exhibit no or reduced sticky feel, as well as no or reduced greasy feel and no or reduced shiny appearance, after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.

1. au moins une particule de cellulose ;

1. au moins un polymère associatif comprenant un ou plusieurs motifs acryliques et/ou méthacryliques ;
2. au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile ; et
3. de l'eau.

Thus, an object of the present invention is a composition comprising:

1. at least one cellulose particle;

1. at least one associative polymer comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;
2. at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and
3. water.

The composition according to the present invention is stable and may exhibit no or reduced sticky feeling, as well as no or reduced oily/greasy feeling, and no or reduced shiny appearance, after application, in addition to texture transformation during application.

The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after the preparation of the composition and for a long period after the preparation of the composition, even during temperature changes from a cold temperature to a warm temperature. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long period even during temperature changes occurring from winter to summer.

The composition according to the present invention may exhibit no sticky feeling or a reduced sticky feeling, preferably after application.

The term "sticky" here means a property that gives a sticky feeling to the skin.

The composition according to the present invention includes the lipophilic organic UV filter (c) which has properties similar to those of oil, and the lipophilic organic UV filter (c) itself can cause an oily or greasy feeling and a shiny appearance such as shiny skin, after application.

However, the composition according to the present invention may exhibit no oily or greasy feeling or exhibit a reduced oily or greasy feeling, and an absent or reduced shiny appearance, such as shiny skin, even if the composition includes the lipophilic organic UV filter (c).

The composition according to the present invention may exhibit a texture transformation during application, preferably at the beginning of application. Texture transformation herein means a change in texture from a gel or cream, for example, to a liquid, which corresponds to the change in the physical properties of a composition, such as a collapse of the structure of the composition which could allow liquid to flow out of the composition. The texture transformation may provide a refreshing sensation.

Therefore, the composition according to the present invention can provide excellent touch feeling, in particular, of the skin during and after application of the composition.

Hereinafter we will explain the composition according to the present invention and the like in more detail.

[Cellulose particle]

The composition according to the present invention includes (a) at least one cellulose particle with specific properties. If two or more cellulose particles are used, they may be the same or different.

The particle size of the cellulose particle (a) corresponds to a primary particle size. Furthermore, the particle size herein refers to a mean or median particle size, which may be a volume average particle size, which can be determined, for example, by a laser diffraction particle size analyzer.

The particle size of the cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention is not limited. However, it is preferable that the particle size of the cellulose particle (a) is 50 μm or less, preferably 30 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less, even more preferably 10 μm or less, and particularly preferably 2 to 5 μm.

It is preferable that 90 vol% or more of the cellulose particles (a) used for the present invention have an average primary particle size of 0.1 to 10 μm, preferably 0.5 to 8 μm, and more preferably 1 to 7 μm. If 90 vol% or more of the cellulose particles (a) have an average primary particle size of 1 to 7 μm, optical effects due to the particles can also be obtained.

The cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention may be in any particulate form.

It is preferable that the ratio of the longest diameter/shortest diameter of the cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention is within a range of 1.0 to 10, preferably 1.0 to 5 and more preferably 1.0 to 3.

It is more preferable that the cellulose particle (a) is spherical, preferably with a longest diameter/shortest diameter ratio of 1.0 to 1.1.

The cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention may have

a wetting point for the oil of at least 40 ml/100 g, preferably at least 50 ml/100 g, more preferably at least 60 ml/100 g, more preferably at least 100 ml/100 g, and even more preferably at least 250 ml/100 g and preferably 1500 ml/100 g or less; and

a wetting point for water of at least 100 ml/100 g, preferably at least 200 ml/100 g, more preferably at least 300 ml/100 g, even more preferably at least 350 ml/100 g and preferably 1500 ml/100 g or less.

The term “wetting point for oil” in the specification means an amount of oil required to make a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.

1. On malaxe 2 g d’une poudre cible avec une spatule sur une plaque de verre tout en ajoutant de l’huile, en particulier de l’huile d’ester linéaire, telle que de l’isononanoate d’isononyle (WICKENOL 151/ALZO).
2. Lorsque la poudre cible devient complètement humide et commence à former une pâte, on détermine le poids de l’huile ajoutée comme étant le poids du point de mouillage.
3. Le point de mouillage pour l’huile est calculé à partir de l’équation suivante : Point de mouillage pour l’huile (ml/100 g) = {(poids du point de mouillage)/2 g}X100/densité de l’huile.

The wetting point for oil can be determined by the following protocol.

1. 2 g of a target powder are mixed with a spatula on a glass plate while adding oil, especially linear ester oil, such as isononyl isononanoate (WICKENOL 151/ALZO).
2. When the target powder becomes completely wet and begins to form a paste, the weight of the added oil is determined as the wetting point weight.
3. The wetting point for oil is calculated from the following equation: Wetting point for oil (ml/100 g) = {(wetting point weight)/2 g}X100/density of oil.

Similarly, the term "wetting point for water" in the specification means an amount of water required to make a target powder completely wet, which can be recognized, in particular, by the formation of a paste with the target powder.

1. On malaxe 2 g d’une poudre cible avec une spatule sur une plaque de verre tout en ajoutant de l’eau ayant une densité de 0,998 g/ml.

1. Lorsque la poudre cible devient complètement humide et commence à former une pâte, on détermine le poids de l’eau ajoutée comme étant le poids du point de mouillage.
2. Le point de mouillage pour l’eau est calculé à partir de l’équation suivante : Point de mouillage pour l’eau (ml/100 g) = {(poids du point de mouillage)/2 g}X100/densité de l’eau.

The anchor point for water can be determined by the following protocol.

1. 2 g of a target powder are kneaded with a spatula on a glass plate while adding water having a density of 0.998 g/ml.

1. When the target powder becomes completely wet and begins to form a paste, the weight of the added water is determined as the wetting point weight.
2. The wetting point for water is calculated from the following equation: Wetting point for water (ml/100 g) = {(wetting point weight)/2 g}X100/density of water.

It is preferable that the ratio of the wetting point for water/wetting point for oil of the cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention is 5 or less, preferably 4 or less, more preferably 3 or less, and even more preferably 2 or less, and most preferably 0.1 or more.

The cellulose particle (a) may be porous or non-porous, preferably porous.

The porosity of the cellulose particle (a) can be characterized by a specific surface area of 0.05 m ² /g to 1,500 m ² /g, more preferably 0.1 m ² /g to 1,000 m ² /g and even more preferably 0.2 m ² /g to 500 m ² /g according to the BET method.

In the present invention, the cellulose which can be used for the cellulose particle (a) is not limited by cellulose types such as cellulose I, cellulose II or the like. As the cellulose which can be used as a material for the cellulose particle (a) for the present invention, type II cellulose is preferable.

1. Une suspension de carbonate de calcium, en tant qu’inhibiteur d’agrégation, est ajoutée à une solution aqueuse alcaline de polymère anionique soluble dans l’eau, puis agitée.

1. La viscose et la solution aqueuse obtenue au point (1) ci-dessus sont mélangées pour former une dispersion de fines particules de viscose.
2. La dispersion des particules fines de viscose obtenue au point (2) ci-dessus est chauffée pour agréger la viscose dans la dispersion, et neutralisée avec de l’acide, pour former des particules fines de cellulose.
3. Les particules fines de cellulose sont séparées du liquide mère obtenu au point (3) ci-dessus, et lavées et séchées, si nécessaire.

The cellulose particle (a), preferably a spherical cellulose particle, can be prepared, for example, as follows.

1. A suspension of calcium carbonate, as an aggregation inhibitor, is added to an alkaline aqueous solution of water-soluble anionic polymer and then stirred.

1. The viscose and the aqueous solution obtained in point (1) above are mixed to form a dispersion of fine viscose particles.
2. The dispersion of fine viscose particles obtained in point (2) above is heated to aggregate the viscose in the dispersion, and neutralized with acid, to form fine cellulose particles.
3. The fine cellulose particles are separated from the mother liquid obtained in point (3) above, and washed and dried, if necessary.

Viscose is a raw material of cellulose. It is preferable to use viscose having a gamma value of 30 to 100% by mass and an alkali concentration of 4 to 10% by mass. As the above water-soluble anionic polymer, polyacrylic acid sodium salt, polystyrene sulfonic acid sodium salt and the like can be mentioned. The above calcium carbonate is used to prevent the aggregation of fine viscose particles in the dispersion and to reduce the size of cellulose particles. As the calcium carbonate paste, Tama Pearl TP-221GS marketed by Okutama Kogyo Co., Ltd. in Japan can be mentioned.

According to one embodiment, the cellulose particle (a) may or may not include a cellulose derivative. The cellulose derivative may be selected from cellulose esters and ethers.

It is indicated that the expression "cellulose ester" designates, in the text above and below, a polymer consisting of an α (1-4) sequence of partially or totally esterified anhydroglucose rings, the esterification being obtained by the reaction of all or only part of the free hydroxyl functions of said anhydroglucose rings with a linear or branched carboxylic acid or carboxylic acid derivative (acid chloride or acid anhydride) containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the cellulose ester results from the reaction of some of the free hydroxyl functions of said cycles with a carboxylic acid containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the cellulose esters are chosen from cellulose acetates, propionates, butyrates, isobutyrates, acetobutyrates and acetopropionates, and mixtures thereof.

These cellulose esters may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000 and more preferably from 15,000 to 300,000.

In the text above and below, the expression "cellulose ether" denotes a polymer consisting of an α(1-4) sequence of partially etherified anhydroglucose rings, some of the free hydroxyl functions of said rings being substituted by a radical -OR, R preferably being a linear or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

The cellulose ethers are thus preferably chosen from cellulose alkyl ethers with an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutyl cellulose ethers.

These cellulose ethers may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 3,000 to 1,000,000, preferably from 10,000 to 500,000 and more preferably from 15,000 to 300,000.

As the cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention, there may be mentioned, for example, the following spherical cellulose particles marketed by Daito Kasei in Japan:

Cellulobeads USF (wetting point for oil is 296.0 ml/100 g, wetting point for water is 400.8 ml/100 g, and the ratio of wetting point for water to wetting point for oil is 1.4) with an average particle size of 4 μm;

Cellulobeads USF-X (the wetting point for oil is at most 80 ml/100 g, the wetting point for water is 250 ml/100 g, and the ratio of the wetting point for water to the wetting point for oil is 3.1 or less) with an average particle size of 3-5 μm;

Cellulobeads D-5 (the wetting point for oil is at most 70 ml/100 g, the wetting point for water is 150 ml/100 g, and the ratio of the wetting point for water to the wetting point for oil is 2.1 or less) with an average particle size of 8-10 μm; and

Cellulobeads D-10 (the wetting point for oil is at most 60 ml/100 g, the wetting point for water is 140 ml/100 g, and the ratio of the wetting point for water to the wetting point for oil is 2.3 or less) with an average particle size of 12-15 μm.

The cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention may or may not be pre-coated.

In a particular embodiment, the cellulose particle (a) is originally coated. The material of an original coating of the particle is not limited, but an organic material such as a monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic acid or a salt thereof, an amino acid, an N-acylamino acid, an amido, a silicone and a modified silicone may be preferable. As the organic material, potassium succinate, lauroyl lysine and acryl-modified silicone may be mentioned.

1. les traitements aux composés à base de fluor tels que les traitements avec des perfluoroalkylphosphates, des perfluoroalkylsilanes, des perfluoropolyéthers, des fluorosilicones et des résines de silicone fluorées

1. les traitements à la silicone tels que les traitements avec des méthylhydrogénpolysiloxanes, des diméthylpolysiloxanes et du tétraméthyltétrahydrogéncyclotétrasiloxane en phase gazeuse
2. les traitements pendants tels que les traitements pour ajouter une chaîne alkyle et similaire après le traitement à la silicone en phase gazeuse
3. les traitements aux agents de couplage à base de silane
4. les traitements aux agents de couplage à base de titane
5. les traitements aux agents de couplage à base d'aluminium
6. les traitements aux agents à base d’huile
7. les traitements à la lysine N-acylée
8. les traitements à l’acide polyacrylique
9. les traitements au savon métallique tels que ceux au sel de stéarate ou au sel de myristate
10. les traitements à la résine acrylique
11. les traitements à l’oxyde métallique

In other words, the cellulose particle (a) used for the present invention can be surface treated. Examples of surface treatments include the following:

1. treatments with fluorine-based compounds such as treatments with perfluoroalkylphosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoropolyethers, fluorosilicones and fluorinated silicone resins

1. silicone treatments such as treatments with methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, dimethylpolysiloxanes and tetramethyltetrahydrogencyclotetrasiloxane in gas phase
2. during treatments such as treatments for adding an alkyl chain and the like after the gas phase silicone treatment
3. silane-based coupling agent treatments
4. titanium-based coupling agent treatments
5. treatments with aluminum-based coupling agents
6. oil-based agent treatments
7. N-acylated lysine treatments
8. polyacrylic acid treatments
9. metallic soap treatments such as stearate salt or myristate salt
10. acrylic resin treatments
11. metal oxide treatments

A plurality of surface treatments can be performed in combination with the above treatments.

The amount of the cellulose particle(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cellulose particle(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cellulose particle(s) (a) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Associative polymer]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one associative polymer comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units. If two or more of these associative polymers are used, they may be the same or different.

The associative polymer (b) can serve as a thickener.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "associative polymer" designates homopolymers or copolymers which are capable, in an aqueous medium, of combining reversibly with each other or with other molecules.

The associative polymer (b) used for the present invention is preferably an associative copolymer of one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units and other units.

The associative polymer (b) more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic part and at least one hydrophobic part. For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "hydrophobic group" denotes a radical or polymer with a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 16 to 30 carbon atoms.

For the purposes of the present invention, the associative polymer (b) comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units means that the polymer comprises at least one acrylic acid unit or at least one methacrylic acid unit or a mixture thereof. The associative polymer (b) may comprise other units such as units formed by an alkyl ester of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid, comprising less than 6 carbon atoms: for example, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate, for example, selected from methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate and butyl acrylate, hereinafter referred to as a "simple ester".

In a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polymer (b) used for the present invention comprises one or more C ₁ -C ₁₂ alkyl ester units of (meth)acrylic acid, more preferably one or more C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl ester units of (meth)acrylic acid.

According to a particular embodiment, the associative polymer (b) used for the present invention comprises one or more acrylic acid units. According to another embodiment, the associative polymer (b) used for the present invention comprises one or more methacrylic acid units. According to another embodiment, the associative polymer (b) used for the present invention comprises one or more acrylic acid units and one or more methacrylic acid units.

In a particular embodiment, the associative polymer (b) may comprise another unit derived from another monomer other than (meth)acrylic acid. For example, this monomer may be esters of ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers, such as (meth)acrylic acid or itaconic acid, and of polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols. Preferably, the fatty alcohol moiety of the ester monomer may be a linear or branched, preferably linear, saturated or unsaturated, preferably saturated, C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol, and in particular a C ₁₆ -C ₂₆ fatty alcohol. The polyoxyalkylene chain of the ester monomer preferably consists of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly consists of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units generally ranges from 3 to 100, preferably from 7 to 50 and more preferably from 12 to 30.

Examples of the associative polymer (b) include, for example,

the product sold under the trade name: NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER® (INCI name: ACRYLATES/BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) sold by LUBRIZOL,

the product under the trade name: Aculyn® 28 (INCI name: ACRYLATES/BEHENETH-25 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) sold by DOW CHEMICAL,

the product sold under the trade name: Aculyn® 22 (INCI name: ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER) sold by DOW CHEMICAL, the product sold under the trade name: Aculyn® 88 (INCI name: ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER) sold by DOW CHEMICAL,

the product sold under the trade name: STRUCTURE® 2001 (INCI name: ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 ITACONATE COPOLYMER) sold by AKZO NOBEL, and

the product sold under the trade name: STRUCTURE® 3001 (INCI name: ACRYLATES/CETETH-20 ITACONATE COPOLYMER) sold by AKZO NOBEL.

The associative polymer (b) which can be used for the present invention can also be chosen from anionic associative (co)polymers containing acrylic and/or methacrylic units.

The anionic associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymer which can be used for the present invention can be chosen from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of a type such as a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl ester of an unsaturated carboxylic acid.

More particularly, these associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymers are preferably chosen from those in which the hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:
(I)

in which R ¹ denotes H or CH _3, i.e. acrylic acid or methacrylic acid units and in which the hydrophobic C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl ester unit of the unsaturated carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:
(II)

in which R ¹ denotes H or CH ₃ (i.e., acrylate or methacrylate units), R ² denoting a C ₁₀ - C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ alkyl radical.

As C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to formula (II), mention may be made in particular of lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

(Meth)acrylic associative (co)polymers are described and prepared, for example, according to US Patents 3,915,921 and US Patents 4,509,949.

The associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymer which can be used for the present invention can more particularly designate the polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:

(i) acrylic acid and one or more esters of formula (III) below:
(III)

in which R ³ denotes H or CH ₃ , R ⁴ denotes an alkyl radical having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally a crosslinking agent, for example those consisting of 95% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 4% to 40% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and 0 to 6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer, or 98% to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1% to 4% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit) and 0.1% to 0.6% by weight of polymerizable crosslinking monomer; or

(ii) essentially acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as the product formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.

For these embodiments of the present invention, the term "crosslinking agent" may mean a monomer containing the group

and at least one other polymerizable group, the unsaturated bonds of the monomer being non-conjugated with each other. As a crosslinking agent which can be used for the present invention, mention may be made in particular of polyallyl ethers, in particular polyallyl sucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.

Among the above-mentioned (meth)acrylic associative (co)polymers, those particularly preferred for the present invention are the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2, Carbopol 1382, and more preferably still Pemulen TR1, and the product sold by the company S.E.P.C. under the name Coatex SX.

As an associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymer, we can also cite the copolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated alcohol sold under the name Viscophobe DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.

Other associative (meth)acrylic (co)polymers which can be used for the present invention can also be sulfonic polymers comprising at least one (meth)acrylic monomer carrying one or more sulfonic groups, in free form or in partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

Said hydrophobic portion present in said sulfonic polymers which can be used for the present invention preferably comprises from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, more preferably, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Preferably, these sulfonic polymers which can be used for the present invention are partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, for example arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds.

These sulfonic polymers generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 g/mol and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g/mol.

The sulfonic polymers that can be used for the present invention may or may not be crosslinked. Crosslinked polymers are preferably chosen.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. Examples include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and/or vinylphosphonic or mixtures of these compounds.

Methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA) will be used more particularly.

The crosslinking rate will generally be from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The (meth)acrylic monomers carrying the sulfonic group(s) of the sulfonic polymers which can be used for the present invention are chosen in particular from (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulfonic acids and N-(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkyl(meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulfonic acids, for example undecylacrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, and also their partially or totally neutralized forms.

(Meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulfonic acids, for example acrylamidomethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoethanesulfonic acid, acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamidododecylsulfonic acid or 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and also partially or fully neutralized forms thereof, will be more preferably used. 2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS), as well as partially or completely neutralized forms thereof, will be used even more particularly.

The (meth)acrylic associative thickeners which can be used for the present invention can be chosen in particular from random amphiphilic AMPS polymers modified by reaction with a C ₆ -C ₂₂ n-monoalkylamine or a C ₆ -C ₂₂ di-n-alkylamine, such as those described in patent application WO 00/31154 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description).

These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

The associative (meth)acrylic thickeners carrying one or more sulfonic group(s) which can be particularly preferably used for the present invention are preferably chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS and at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer comprising at least one hydrophobic part containing from 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

• Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336 ;
• Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704 ;
• Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332 ;
• Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221.

These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750 899, US patent 5,089,578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

• Self-assembly amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures, Chinese Journal of Polymer Science, Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;
• Micelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering, Macromolecules, 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10 - 3694-3704;
• Solution properties of micelle networks formed by nonionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332;
• Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers, Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221.

The ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula (IV) below:
(IV)

in which R ⁵ and R ⁷ , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R ⁶ denotes a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing at least 8 to 50 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, even more preferably from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes the number of moles of alkyl oxide and ranges from 0 to 100.

The radical R ⁶ is preferably chosen from linear C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl), or linear or branched C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals (for example cyclododecane (C ₁₂ ) or adamantane (C ₁₀ )); C ₆ -C ₁₈ perfluoroalkyl radicals (for example the group of formula -(CH ₂ ) _-2 -(CF ₂ ) ₉ -CF ₃ ); the cholesteryl radical (C ₂₇ ) or a cholesterol ester residue, for example the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; aromatic polycyclic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Among these radicals, those which are more particularly preferred are the linear alkyl radicals and more particularly the n-dodecyl radical.

According to a particularly preferred form of the present invention, the monomer of formula (IV) comprises at least one alkylene oxide unit (x ≥ 1) and preferably a polyoxyalkylene chain. The polyoxyalkylene chain preferably consists of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units and even more particularly of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylene units generally ranges from 3 to 100, more preferably from 3 to 50 and even more preferably from 7 to 25.

• les copolymères, qui peuvent être réticulés ou non et neutralisés ou non, comprenant de 15 % à 60 % en poids de motifs AMPS et de 40 % à 85 % en poids de motifs (C₈- C₁₆)alkyl(méth)acrylamide ou de motifs (C₈- C₁₆)alkyl(méth)acrylate, par rapport au polymère, tels que ceux décrits dans la demande de brevet EP-A-750 899 ;
• les terpolymères comprenant de 10 % molaire à 90 % molaire de motifs acrylamide, de 0,1 % molaire à 10 % molaire de motifs AMPS et de 5 % molaire à 80 % molaire de motifs n-(C₆-C₁₈)alkylacrylamide, tels que ceux décrits dans le brevet US-5 089 578.

Among these polymers, we can cite:

• copolymers, which may be crosslinked or not and neutralized or not, comprising from 15% to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40% to 85% by weight of (C ₈ - C ₁₆ )alkyl(meth)acrylamide units or (C ₈ - C ₁₆ )alkyl(meth)acrylate units, relative to the polymer, such as those described in patent application EP-A-750 899;
• terpolymers comprising from 10 mol% to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 mol% to 10 mol% of AMPS units and from 5 mol% to 80 mol% of n-(C ₆ -C ₁₈ )alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US Patent No. 5,089,578.

Also exemplified are copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate, as well as crosslinked and non-crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima papers mentioned above.

Mention will be made of copolymers consisting of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) of formula (V) below:
(V)

in which X ⁺ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or an ammonium ion;

and the patterns of formula (VI) below:
(VI)

in which x denotes an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 5 to 80 and more preferably from 7 to 25; R ⁵ has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (IV) and R ⁸ denotes a linear or branched C ₆ - C ₂₂ alkyl and more preferably C ₁₀ - C _22.

Preferred polymers are those for which x = 25, R ⁵ denotes methyl and R ⁸ represents n-dodecyl; they are described in the Morishima papers mentioned above.

Furthermore, in formula (IV), the use of monomers where x = 20 to 25, R ⁵ denotes methyl and R ⁸ represents a C ₁₂ -C _{24 alkyl group,} preferably, for example, a lauryl group, a myristyl group, a palmityl group, a stearyl group or a behenyl group is particularly preferred. In particular, the use of monomers of formula (IV), in which x = 20 to 25, R ⁵ denotes methyl and R ⁸ represents a C ₁₆ -C _{24 alkyl chain,} such as a stearyl group, or a behenyl group is particularly preferred.

Polymers for which X ⁺ denotes sodium or ammonium are more particularly preferred.

The amount of the associative polymer(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the associative polymer(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the associative polymer(s) (b) in the composition according to the present invention may be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Lipophilic organic UV filter]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter. Only one type of lipophilic organic UV filter may be used, but two or more different types of lipophilic organic UV filter may be used in combination.

The term "lipophilic organic UV filter" means an organic molecule capable of filtering UV rays, preferably between 290 and 400 nm, and which can be dissolved or dispersed in a fatty phase, including a fatty substance such as an oil, in order to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous phase. The term "organic molecule" means any molecule comprising in its structure one or more carbon atoms. Thus, the lipophilic organic UV filter (c) used for the present invention can be active in the UV-A and/or UV-B region.

The lipophilic organic UV filter (c) can be solid or liquid. The terms “solid” and “liquid” mean solid and liquid, respectively, at 25 ºC under 1 atm.

The lipophilic organic UV filter (c) may be chosen in particular from cinnamic derivatives; anthranilates; salicylic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives, camphor derivatives; benzophenone derivatives; β, β-diphenylacrylate derivatives; triazine derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives, in particular those mentioned in US patent 5,624,663; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives; benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones such as those described in particular in patent application WO 93/04665; alkylstyrene-based α-dimers, such as those described in patent application DE 198 55 649; 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications EP 0 967 200, DE 197 46 654, DE 197 55 649, EP-A-1 008 586, EP 1 133 980 and EP 133 981; merocyanine derivatives such as those described in patent applications WO 04/006 878, WO 05/058 269, WO 06/032 741, FR 2 957 249 and FR 2 957 250; and mixtures thereof.

Examples of lipophilic organic UV filters (c) include those listed below under their INCI names:

Dibenzoylmethane derivative :

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane or avobenzone sold under the trade name Parsol 1789 by the company DSM Nutritional Products,

Para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives :

Ethyl PABA,

Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA,

Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name Escalol 507 by ISP,

Salicylic derivatives :

Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona/EM Industries,

Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Symrise,

Cinnamic derivatives :

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name Parsol MCX by DSM Nutritional Products,

Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,

Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise,

Cinoxate,

Diisopropyl methylcinnamate,

,-diphenylacrylate derivatives :

Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N539 by BASF,

Etocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul N35 by BASF,

Benzophenone derivatives :

Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name Uvinul 400 by BASF,

Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name Uvinul D50 by BASF,

Benzophenone-3 or oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul M40 by BASF,

Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay,

Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid,

Benzophenone-12,

N-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate sold under the trade name Uvinul A+ or as a mixture with octyl methoxycinnamate under the trade name Uvinul A+B by BASF,

Benzylidenecamphor derivatives :

3-Benzylidene Camphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SD by Chimex,

4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor sold under the name Eusolex 6300 by Merck,

Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name Mexoryl SW by Chimex,

Phenylbenzotriazole derivatives :

Drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie,

Triazine derivatives :

Bis-(Ethylhexyloxyphenol) methoxyphenyl triazine sold under the trade name Tinosorb S by BASF,

Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul T150 by BASF,

Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name Uvasorb HEB by Sigma 3V,

2,4,6-Tris(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

2,4,6-Tris(diisobutyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-s-triazine,

• les silicones de triazine substituées par deux groupes aminobenzoate tels que décrits dans EP0841341 en particulier 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-

2,4-Bis(dineopentyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzoate)-s-triazine,

• triazine silicones substituted with two aminobenzoate groups as described in EP0841341 in particular 2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-

[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

Anthranilic derivatives :

Menthyl Anthranilate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan MA by Symrise,

Imidazoline derivatives :

Ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazoline propionate,

Benzalmalonate derivatives :

Dineopentyl 4’-methoxybenzalmalonate,

Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, for example Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX by DSM,

4,4-Diarylbutadiene derivatives :

1,1-dicarboxy(2,2’-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene,

• Octyl 5-N,N-diéthylamino-2-phénylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadiénoate

Lipophilic merocyanine derivatives :

• Octyl 5-N,N-diethylamino-2-phenylsulfonyl-2,4-pentadienoate

and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the lipophilic organic UV filter (c) can be chosen from:

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

Ethylhexyl salicylate,

Homosalate

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

Octocrylene,

Benzophenone-3,

n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

4-methylbenzylidenecamphor,

Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,

Ethylhexyl triazone

Diethylhexyl butamido triazone,

2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane,

Polysilicone-15,

1,1-dicarboxy(2,2'-dimethylpropyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and

mixtures of these.

More preferably, the lipophilic organic UV filter (c) may be chosen from:

Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

Octocrylene,

Ethylhexyl salicylate,

n-Hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

Bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine,

2,4-bis-(n-butyl 4'-aminobenzalmalonate)-6-[(3-{1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1-[(trimethylsilyloxy]disiloxanyl}propyl)amino]-s-triazine,

Ethylhexyl triazone,

Diethylhexyl butamido triazone,

Drometrizole Trisiloxane, and

mixtures of these.

In one embodiment, it may be preferable that the composition according to the present invention includes, as a lipophilic organic UV filter (c), at least one selected from the group consisting of drometrizole trisiloxane, bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 3% by weight or more, and more preferably 5% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the lipophilic organic UV filter(s) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) water.

The amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 25% by weight or more, preferably 30% by weight or more and more preferably 35% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 70% by weight or less and more preferably 60% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of water (d) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 25% to 80% by weight, preferably from 30% to 70% by weight and more preferably from 35% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Non-ionic surfactant]

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (e) at least one nonionic surfactant. Only one type of nonionic surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of nonionic surfactant may be used in combination.

The nonionic surfactant (e) can further improve the stability of the composition according to the present invention.

1. les tensioactifs choisis parmi les esters polyglycériques d’acide gras, les alkyl glycérides polyoxyalkylénés et les éthers gras polyoxyalkylénés ;

1. les esters mixtes d’acide gras ou d’alcool gras, acide carboxylique et glycérol ;
2. les esters d’acide gras de sucres et les éthers d’alcool gras de sucres ;
3. les tensioactifs choisis parmi les esters gras de sorbitane et les esters gras oxyalkylénés de sorbitane, et les esters gras oxyalkylénés ;
4. les copolymères séquencés d’oxyde d’éthylène (A) et d’oxyde de propylène (B),
5. les éthers d'alkyle (en C₁₆-C₃₀) polyoxyéthylénés (1-40 EO) et polyoxypropylénés (1-30 PO),
6. les tensioactifs de silicone, et
7. des mélanges de ceux-ci.

The nonionic surfactant (e) can be chosen from:

1. surfactants selected from polyglycerol esters of fatty acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl glycerides and polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers;

1. mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol, carboxylic acid and glycerol;
2. fatty acid esters of sugars and fatty alcohol ethers of sugars;
3. surfactants selected from sorbitan fatty esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty esters, and oxyalkylenated fatty esters;
4. block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B),
5. polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) alkyl ethers (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ),
6. silicone surfactants, and
7. mixtures of these.

The surfactant (1) may be a fluid at a temperature less than or equal to 45°C.

• les esters polyglycériques d'acides gras d'au moins un, de préférence un, acide gras comprenant au moins un groupe hydrocarboné en C₈-C₂₂saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, tel qu'un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₂₂, de préférence, un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₁₈et plus préférablement, un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₁₂, et de 2-12 glycérols, de préférence, 2-10 glycérols et plus préférablement, 2-8 glycérols ;
• les alkyl glycérides polyoxyéthylénés (PEGylés) tels que les dérivés polyéthylène glycol d’un mélange de mono-, di- et tri-glycérides d’acides caprylique et caprique (de préférence, 2 à 30 motifs oxyde d’éthylène, plus préférablement, 2 à 20 motifs oxyde d’éthylène, et encore plus préférablement, 2 à 10 motifs oxyde d’éthylène), par exemple, les glycérides capryliques/capriques PEG-6, les glycérides capryliques/capriques PEG-7 et le cocoate de glycéryle PEG-7 ;
• les éthers gras polyoxyéthylénés d'au moins un, de préférence un, alcool gras comprenant au moins un groupe hydrocarboné en C₈-C₂₂saturé ou insaturé, linéaire ou ramifié, tel qu'un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₂₂, de préférence, un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₁₈et plus préférablement, un groupe alkyle ou alcényle en C₈-C₁₂, et de 2 à 60 oxydes d'éthylène, de préférence, de 2 à 30 oxydes d'éthylène et plus préférablement, de 2 à 10 oxydes d'éthylène ; et
• des mélanges de ceux-ci.

The surfactant (1) can be chosen in particular from:

• polyglycerol esters of fatty acids of at least one, preferably one, fatty acid comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₈ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, such as a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₈ alkyl or alkenyl group and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and 2-12 glycerols, preferably 2-10 glycerols and more preferably 2-8 glycerols;
• polyoxyethylenated (PEGylated) alkyl glycerides such as polyethylene glycol derivatives of a mixture of mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of caprylic and capric acids (preferably 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, and even more preferably 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units), for example, PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides, PEG-7 caprylic/capric glycerides and PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate;
• polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers of at least one, preferably one, fatty alcohol comprising at least one saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon group, such as a C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, preferably a C _{8 -C 18} alkyl or alkenyl group and more preferably a C ₈ -C ₁₂ alkyl or alkenyl group, and from 2 to 60 ethylene oxides, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxides and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxides; and
• mixtures of these.

It may be preferable that the nonionic surfactant (e) is a mixture of at least two selected from the above polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyoxyethylenated alkylglycerides and polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers.

It is preferable that the fatty acid polyglycerol ester has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 8 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 6 glycerols, and even more preferably 2 to 4 glycerols.

The polyglycerol ester of fatty acid may be selected from mono, di and triesters of saturated or unsaturated acid, preferably of saturated acid, including 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably 8 to 12 carbon atoms, such as caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and myristic acid.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be selected from the group consisting of PG2 caprate, PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 caprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 laurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 stearate, PG2 distearate, PG2 tristearate, PG2 isostearate, PG2 diisostearate, PG2 triisostearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 laurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 stearate, PG3 distearate, PG3 tristearate, PG3 isostearate, PG3 diisostearate, PG3 triisostearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate, PG4 caprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 caprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 laurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 stearate, PG4 distearate, PG4 tristearate, PG4 isostearate, PG4 diisostearate, PG4 triisostearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 dicaprylate, PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 laurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 stearate, PG5 distearate, PG5 tristearate, PG5 isostearate, PG5 diisostearate, PG5 triisostearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG6 caprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 laurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 stearate, PG6 distearate, PG6 tristearate, PG6 isostearate, PG6 diisostearate, PG6 triisostearate, PG6 oleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG10 caprate, PG10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 laurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 stearate, PG10 distearate, PG10 tristearate, PG10 isostearate, PG10 diisostearate, PG10 triisostearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 dioleate and PG10 trioleate.

The polyoxyalkylenated fatty ethers, preferably the polyoxyethylenated fatty ethers, may comprise from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units and more preferably from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the ethers may be chosen in particular from lauryl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl and cetyl units, and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl. Examples of ethoxylated fatty ethers include lauryl alcohol ethers containing 2, 3, 4 and 5 ethylene oxide units (CTFA names: Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4 and Laureth-5, such as the products sold under the names Nikkol BL-2 by Nikko Chemicals, Emalex 703 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd, Nikkol BL-4 by Nikko Chemicals and EMALEX 705 by Nihon Emulsion Co, Ltd.

The mixed esters of fatty acids, or of fatty alcohol, of carboxylic acid and of glycerol (2), which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising mixed esters of fatty acid or fatty alcohol with an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms, and of α-hydroxy acid and/or succinic acid, with glycerol. The α-hydroxy acid can be, for example, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid or malic acid, and mixtures thereof.

The alkyl chain of the fatty acids or alcohols from which the mixed esters that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention are derived may be linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated. These may include in particular stearate, isostearate, linoleate, oleate, behenate, arachidonate, palmitate, myristate, laurate, caprate, isostearyl, stearyl, linoleyl, oleyl, behenyl, myristyl, lauryl or capryl chains, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of mixed esters that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention include the mixed ester of glycerol and the mixture of citric acid, lactic acid, linoleic acid and oleic acid (CTFA name: Glyceryl citrate/lactate/linoleate/oleate) sold by Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearic alcohol with glycerol (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) sold by Hüls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) sold by the Danisco company under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30.

The fatty acid esters of sugars (3), which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be chosen in particular from the group comprising esters or mixtures of esters of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, and esters or mixtures of esters of C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids and methylglucose.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty acids forming the fatty unit of the esters which can be used in the present invention comprise a saturated or unsaturated linear alkyl or alkenyl chain containing respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates and caprates, and mixtures thereof. Stearates are preferably used.

Examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose include sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate and sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, such as the products sold by Croda under the name Crodesta F50, F70, F110 and F160; and examples of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acids and methylglucose include methylglucose polyglyceryl-3 distearate, sold by Goldschmidt under the name Tego-care 450. Also included are glucose or maltose monoesters, such as methyl O-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and O-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside.

The fatty alcohol ethers of sugars (3), which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be solid at a temperature of less than or equal to 45°C and can be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of ethers of C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose, and ethers or mixtures of ethers of a C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides.

The C ₈ -C ₂₂ or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers that can be used in the nanoemulsion of the invention comprise a linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl or alkenyl chain, containing from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms, respectively. The fatty unit of the ethers can be chosen in particular from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl units and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl.

Examples of fatty alcohol ethers of sugars include alkylpolyglucosides such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside, which are sold, for example, by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetostearyl glucoside optionally in admixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold, for example, under the name Montanov 68 by SEPPIC, under the name Tego-care CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol and arachidyl glucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by SEPPIC.

The surfactant more particularly used is sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate or sucrose tristearate and mixtures thereof, polyglyceryl-3 methylglucose distearate and alkylpolyglucosides.

The sorbitan fatty esters and oxyalkylenated sorbitan fatty esters (4) that can be used as the above nonionic surfactant can be selected from the group consisting of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ sorbitan fatty acid esters and C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters. They can be formed from at least one fatty acid comprising at least one saturated linear alkyl chain containing, respectively, from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, and sorbitol or ethoxylated sorbitol. The oxyethylenated esters can generally comprise from 1 to 100 ethylene glycol units and preferably from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide (EO) units.

These esters may be chosen in particular from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates and mixtures thereof. Stearates and palmitates are preferably used.

Examples of the above nonionic surfactant that can be used in the present invention include sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by ICI Company under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by ICI Company under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by ICI Company under the name Tween 65.

The oxyalkylenated fatty esters (4), preferably ethoxylated fatty esters, which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, may be esters formed from 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units, preferably from 2 to 60 ethylene oxide units and more preferably from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, and from at least one fatty acid chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms. The fatty chain in the esters may be chosen in particular from stearate, behenate, arachidate and palmitate units, and mixtures thereof. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters include the stearic acid ester comprising 40 ethylene oxide units, such as the product sold under the name Myrj 52 (CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate) by the company ICI, as well as the behenic acid ester comprising 8 ethylene oxide units (CTFA name: PEG-8 behenate), such as the product sold under the name Compritol HD5 ATO by the company Gattefosse.

The block copolymers of ethylene oxide (A) and propylene oxide (B) (5), which can be used as the nonionic surfactant above, can be chosen in particular from the block copolymers of formula (I):

HO(C ₂ H ₄ O) _x (C ₃ H ₆ O) _y (C ₂ H ₄ O) _z H (I)

in which x, y and z are integers such that x+z ranges from 2 to 100 and y ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly among the block copolymers of formula (I) having an HLB value ranging from 8.0 to 14.0.

The polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ethers (6), which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, can be selected from the group consisting of:

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30; Polyoxyethylene (30) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4630 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12; Polyoxyethylene (12) Polyoxypropylene (6) Tetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4612 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24; Polyoxyethylene (24) Polyoxypropylene (13) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold as UNILUBE 50MT-2200B from NOF Corporation,

PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (6) Decyltetradecyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PEN-4620 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-4 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl Ether such as those sold by Nikkol PBC-31 of Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-8 Ceteth-1; Polyoxyethylene (1) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-41 from Nikko Chemicals Co,

PPG-4 Ceteth-10; Polyoxyethylene (10) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-33 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-4 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (4) Cetyl ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-34 from Nikko Chemicals Co.,

PPG-5 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (5) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Procetyl AWS from Croda Inc,

PPG-8 Ceteth-20; Polyoxyethylene (20) Polyoxypropylene (8) Cetyl Ether such as those sold under the name Nikkol PBC-44 by Nikko Chemicals Co. and

PPG-23 Steareth-34; Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Stearyl Ether (34 EO) (23 PO) such as those sold under the name Unisafe 34S-23 from Pola Chemical Industries. They can provide a composition with long-term stability even if the temperature of the composition is increased and decreased in a relatively short period of time.

It may be preferred that the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ethers are polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl ethers, which could be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-20, PPG-5 Ceteth-20, PPG-8 Ceteth-20 and PPG-23 Steareth-34.

It may be even more preferable that the polyoxyethylenated (1-40 EO) and polyoxypropylenated (1-30 PO) (C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ethers are polyoxypropylenated (5-30 PO) (C ₁₆ -C ₂₄ ) alkyl ethers, which could be selected from the group consisting of PPG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, PPG-13 Decyltetradeceth-24, PPG-5 Ceteth-20 and PPG-8 Ceteth-20.

As silicone surfactants (7), which can be used as the above nonionic surfactant, those disclosed in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744 may be mentioned.

The silicone surfactant (7) as the above nonionic surfactant may preferably be a compound of formula (I):

in which:

R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , independently of one another, represent a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical or a -(CH ₂ ) _x -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ radical, at least one radical R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ not being an alkyl radical; R ₄ being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;

x is an integer from 1 to 6;

y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30;

z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include compounds of formula (II):

where A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10, and y is an integer from 10 to 20.

Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include compounds of formula (III):

H-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _A' -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)

in which A’ and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

The compounds of the invention that can be used are those sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146 and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) in which, respectively, A is 22, B is 2 and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12.

Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) where A is 15 and y is 13.

The nonionic surfactant (e) may have an HLB (for Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 8.0 to 14.0, preferably 9.0 to 13.5, and more preferably 10.0 to 13.0. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, the HLB value is determined by the weighted average of the HLB values of all the nonionic surfactants.

It is preferable that the nonionic surfactant (e) is chosen from polyglycerol esters of fatty acids and more preferably, polyglycerol monoesters of fatty acids.

In particular, the nonionic surfactant (e) may be a mixture of a first polyglycerol monoester of fatty acid having an HLB value of less than 10, preferably less than 9 and more preferably less than 8, and of a second polyglycerol monoester of fatty acid having an HLB value of greater than 11, preferably greater than 12 and more preferably greater than 13.

The amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and more preferably 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the nonionic surfactant(s) (e) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Oil]

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (f) at least one oil. If two or more oils are used, they may be the same or different.

The oil (f) is different from the lipophilic organic UV filter (c).

Here, the term "oil" is understood to mean a fatty compound or substance that is in the form of a liquid or paste (not solid) at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil (f) may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil; or a mixture thereof.

The oil (f) may be selected from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils and fatty alcohols.

Examples of vegetable oils include linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.

Examples of animal oils include squalene and squalane, for example.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils, and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C _{26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols,} the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monohydric alcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters are derived.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonanoate, isononyl isonanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C _{22 alcohols,} as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₄ -C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy non-sugar alcohols may also be used.

Examples include: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylethylethyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neotyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, it is possible to use sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ - C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ fatty acids. It is recalled that the term "sugar" designates oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Examples of suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for example methylglucose.

The fatty acid sugar esters may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₆ - C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ - C ₂₂ fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

Esters according to this variant may also be selected from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate and mixed palmitostearate esters, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used, and in particular monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

For example, we can cite the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Examples of preferable ester oils include, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate/caprate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isonanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl laurate, and the like. isohexyl, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrityl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate and mixtures thereof.

Examples of artificial triglycerides include, for example, capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate, glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate/linolenate).

Examples of silicone oils include linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oil is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils may also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones that may be used for the present invention are silicone oils as defined above, and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academic Press. They may be volatile or nonvolatile.

1. les polydialkylsiloxanes cycliques comprenant de 3 à 7 et de préférence, de 4 à 5 atomes de silicium. Il s’agit, par exemple, de l’octaméthylcyclotétrasiloxane vendu notamment sous le nom Volatile Silicone® 7207 par Unioncarbure ou Silbione® 70045 V2 par Rhodia, du décaméthylcyclopentasiloxane vendu sous le nom Volatile Silicone® 7158 par Unioncarbure, Silbione®70045 V5 par Rhodia, et du dodécaméthylcyclopentasiloxane vendu sous le nom Silsoft 1217 par Momentive Performance Materials, et des mélanges de ceux-ci. On peut également citer les cyclocopolymères du type diméthylsiloxane/méthylalkylsiloxane, tels que Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 vendu par la société Union Carbide, de formule :

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60°C and 260°C, and more particularly from:

1. cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These include, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Unioncarbure or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Unioncarbure, Silbione®70045 V5 by Rhodia, and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Silsoft 1217 by Momentive Performance Materials, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type, such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 sold by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

1. les polydialkylsiloxanes volatils linéaires contenant de 2 à 9 atomes de silicium et ayant une viscosité inférieure ou égale à 5×10^-6m²/s à 25 °C. Un exemple est le décaméthyltétrasiloxane vendu notamment sous le nom de SH 200 par la société Toray Silicone. Des silicones appartenant à cette catégorie sont également décrites dans l’article publié dans Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers,Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics. La viscosité des silicones est mesurée à 25 °C conformément à la norme ASTM 445 Annexe C.

Also exemplary are mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2',2',2',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane; and

1. linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of 5×10 ^-6 m ² /s or less at 25 °C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane sold, among other things, under the name SH 200 by Toray Silicone. Silicones in this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25 °C in accordance with ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes may also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups.

• les huiles Silbione^®des gammes 47 et 70 047 ou les huiles Mirasil^®vendues par Rhodia, par exemple l’huile 70 047 V 500 000 ;
• les huiles de la gamme Mirasil^®vendues par la société Rhodia ;
• les huiles de la gamme 200 de la société Dow Corning, comme la DC200 ayant une viscosité de 60 000 mm²/s ; et
• les huiles Viscasil^®de General Electric et certaines huiles de la gamme SF (SF 96, SF 18) de General Electric.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, we can cite, without limitation, the following commercial products:

• Silbione ^® oils from the 47 and 70 047 ranges or Mirasil ^® oils sold by Rhodia, for example oil 70 047 V 500 000;
• oils from the Mirasil ^® range sold by the company Rhodia;
• Dow Corning's 200 series oils, such as DC200 with a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s; and
• General Electric ^Viscasil® oils and certain General Electric SF range oils (SF 96, SF 18).

Also exemplified are polydimethylsiloxanes containing dimethylsilanol end groups known as dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils in the 48 range from Rhodia.

Among the silicones containing aryl groups, mention may be made of polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as a phenyl silicone oil.

The phenylated silicone oil can be selected from phenylated silicones of the following formula:

in which

R ₁ to R ₁₀ are, independently of one another, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radicals, preferably C ₁ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radicals and more preferably C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon radicals, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radicals, and

m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers from 0 to 900 inclusive, preferably from 0 to 500 inclusive and more preferably from 0 to 100 inclusive,

provided that the sum n+m+q is different from 0.

• les huiles Silbione® de la gamme 70 641 de Rhodia ;
• les huiles des gammes Rhodorsil® 70 633 et 763 de Rhodia ;
• l’huile Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid de Dow Corning ;
• les silicones de la gamme PK de Bayer, comme le produit PK20 ;
• certaines huiles de la gamme SF de General Electric, comme SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 et SF 1265.

Examples that may be cited include products sold under the following names:

• Silbione® oils from the 70 641 range from Rhodia;
• oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 ranges from Rhodia;
• Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid;
• Bayer's PK range of silicones, such as PK20;
• some General Electric SF range oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

As phenyl silicone oil, phenyl trimethicone (R ₁ to R ₁₀ are methyl; p, q and n = 0; m=1 in the above formula) is preferable.

• les alcanes linéaires ou ramifiés, facultativement cycliques, en C₅-C₁₉. On peut citer, par exemple, l’hexane, l’undécane, le dodécane, le tridécane et les isoparaffines, par exemple l’isohexadécane, l’isododécane et l’isodécane ; et
• les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés contenant plus de 16 atomes de carbone, tels que paraffines liquides, gelée de pétrole liquide, polydécènes et polyisobutènes hydrogénés tels que Parleam et squalane.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

• linear or branched, optionally cyclic, C ₅ -C ₁₉ alkanes. Examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; and
• linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, liquid petroleum jelly, hydrogenated polydecenes and polyisobutenes such as Parleam and squalane.

Preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils include, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin), paraffin, petrolatum or petroleum, naphthalenes, and the like; hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoicosane and decene/butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

The term “fat” in fatty alcohol means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols having 4 or more carbon atoms, preferably 6 or more, and most preferably 12 or more carbon atoms, are included within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohol may be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol may be linear or branched.

The fatty alcohol may have the structure R-OH wherein R is selected from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R may be selected from C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkenyl groups. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Examples of the fatty alcohol include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol.

Thus, the fatty alcohol may be selected from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched _C6 - _C30 alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched _C6 - _C30 alcohols and more preferably saturated, linear or branched _C12 - _C20 alcohols.

The term "saturated fatty alcohol" herein refers to an alcohol having a long aliphatic saturated carbon chain. It is preferable that the saturated fatty alcohol is selected from any linear or branched saturated C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. Among the linear or branched saturated C ₆ - C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, linear or branched saturated C ₁₂ - C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may be preferably used. Any linear or branched saturated C ₁₆ - C ₂₀ fatty alcohol may be preferably used. Branched C ₁₆ - C ₂₀ fatty alcohols may be more preferably used.

Examples of saturated fatty alcohols include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, myristyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, or a mixture thereof (e.g., cetearyl alcohol), and behenyl alcohol, may be used as the saturated fatty alcohol.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is preferably chosen from cetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol and mixtures thereof.

It is also preferable to choose oil (f) from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g/mol.

Preferably, the oil (f) has a low molecular weight such as less than 600 g/mol, selected from ester oils having a short hydrocarbon chain or chains (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ) (for example, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isononanoate and ethylhexyl palmitate), silicone oils (for example, volatile silicones such as cyclohexasiloxane), hydrocarbon oils (for example, isododecane, isohexadecane and squalane), branched and/or unsaturated fatty alcohol type oils (C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ ) such as octylodecanol and oleyl alcohol, and ether oils such as dicaprylyl ether.

The oil (f) may be selected from polar oils, preferably from ester oils and more preferably ethylhexyl palmitate, and preferably from artificial triglycerides, and more preferably caprylic/capric triglyceride.

The amount of the oil or oils (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 5% by weight or more, and more preferably 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the oil or oils (f) in the composition according to the present invention may be 50% by weight or less, preferably 45% by weight or less, and more preferably 40% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the oil or oils (f) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 5% to 45% by weight and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Inorganic particle]

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise (g) at least one inorganic particle. Only one type of inorganic particle may be used, but two or more different types of inorganic particle may be used in combination.

The particle size of the inorganic particle (g) corresponds to a primary particle size. Furthermore, the particle size herein denotes an average or median particle size, which may be a volume average particle size, which can be determined, for example, by a laser diffraction particle size analyzer.

The particle size of the inorganic particle (g) used for the present invention is not limited. However, it is preferable that the particle size of the inorganic particle (f) is 50 μm or less, preferably 30 μm or less, more preferably 15 μm or less, even more preferably 10 μm or less, and particularly preferably 2 to 5 μm.

The inorganic particle (g) may be porous or non-porous, preferably non-porous.

The inorganic particle (g) may be hollow or solid, preferably hollow.

• les oxydes métalliques tels que les oxydes de zirconium, les oxydes de cérium, les oxydes de fer et les oxydes de titane,
• l’alumine,
• les silicates tels que le talc, les argiles et le kaolin,
• les particules de verre,
• la silice (dioxyde de silicium),
• le carbonate de calcium ou carbonate de magnésium,
• les carbonates d’hydrogène de magnésium,
• l'hydroxyapatite, et
• les mélanges de ceux-ci.

The inorganic particle (g) may comprise or consist of at least one material selected from:

• metal oxides such as zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, iron oxides and titanium oxides,
• alumina,
• silicates such as talc, clays and kaolin,
• glass particles,
• silica (silicon dioxide),
• calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate,
• magnesium hydrogen carbonates,
• hydroxyapatite, and
• mixtures of these.

Among the silica particles, there may be mentioned hollow spherical silica particles such as the products sold under the trade name BA4 by JGC Catalysts and Chemicals Ltd. in Japan.

The amount of the inorganic particle(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 1% by weight or more, preferably 2% by weight or more and more preferably 3% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, the amount of the inorganic particle(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and more preferably 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the inorganic particle(s) (g) in the composition according to the present invention may range from 1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 2% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 3% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Additional optional ingredients]

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of additional optional ingredient(s), previously known elsewhere in cosmetic compositions, for example, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants; organic powders different from ingredient (a); thickeners different from ingredient (b); sequestering agents such as EDTA and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate; preservatives; vitamins or provitamins, for example panthenol; fragrances; plant extracts; etc.

The composition according to the present invention may include one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, which may be alcohols: in particular monovalent alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanolic alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol; diols such as ethylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and butylene glycol; other polyols such as glycerol, sugar and sugar alcohols; and ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl, propylene glycol monomethyl and monobutyl ether and butylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers.

The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The organic water-soluble solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Preparation and properties]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The method and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means may include a homogenizer, for example a turbine mixer.

[Shape]

The composition according to the present invention can be of various forms.

Since the composition according to the present invention includes (c) a lipophilic organic UV filter, which may be similar to an oil, the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of an O/W emulsion which may be a fluid, a paste or a cream.

The composition according to the present invention in the form of an H/W emulsion comprises dispersed fatty phases such as oily phases dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases may take the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase.

The aqueous phase can be thickened, since the associative polymer (b) can serve as a thickener. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an H/W gel type emulsion.

The O/W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present disclosure having the O/W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant sensation during use due to the immediate freshness sensation that the aqueous phase can provide.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention has a viscosity of 10,000 mPa s or more, more preferably, 15,000 mPa s or more, and even more preferably, 20,000 mPa s or more. The viscosity can be measured using a type B viscometer (for example, rotor: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, measuring time: 1 minute) at 25°C.

It is also preferable that the composition used according to the present invention has a viscosity at 25°C of 200,000 mPa s or less, more preferably 150,000 mPa s or less, and even more preferably 100,000 mPa s or less.

It may be preferable that the composition used according to the present invention has a viscosity at 25°C of 10,000 mPa s to 200,000 mPa s, more preferably, of 15,000 mPa s to 150,000 mPa s, even more preferably, of 20,000 mPa s to 100,000 mPa s.

[Method and use]

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition and more preferably, a cosmetic composition for a keratin substance such as skin.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating a keratin substance such as the skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, by being applied to the keratin substance.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating a keratin substance, preferably the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin substance.

The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products, for the skin of the body and/or the face and/or the mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or the hair and/or the nails and/or the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.

In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used, as such, as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

The care product can be a lotion, cream and the like.

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is used as a sunscreen, since it includes (c) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.

The present invention may also relate to a use of (a) at least one cellulose particle

1. au moins un polymère associatif comprenant un ou plusieurs motifs acryliques et/ou méthacryliques ;

1. au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile ; et
2. de l’eau,

in a composition comprising:

1. at least one associative polymer comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;

1. at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and
2. water,

in order to cause a transformation of texture of the composition when applied to a keratin substance such as the skin, preferably at the beginning of the application, and/or to reduce the sticky, oily/greasy and shiny appearance of the keratin substance after application.

The present invention may also relate to a use of (b) at least one associative polymer comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units,

1. au moins une particule de cellulose ;

1. au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile ; et

1. de l’eau,

in a composition comprising:

1. at least one cellulose particle;

1. at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and

1. water,

in order to cause a transformation of texture of the composition when applied to a keratinous substance such as the skin, preferably at the start of the application, and/or to stabilize the composition.

It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (e) at least one nonionic surfactant.

It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (f) at least one oil different from the lipophilic organic UV filter (c).

It may be preferable that the composition used in the above use according to the present invention includes (g) at least one inorganic particle.

The explanations concerning ingredients (a) to (e) in the composition according to the present invention can be applied to those in the above use according to the present invention.

EXAMPLES

We will describe the present invention in more detail with the aid of examples which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Examples 1-2 and comparative examples 1-2]

1. mélange des ingrédients des lignes A du tableau 1 à 75-80 °C pour former un mélange uniforme de phase A ;

1. ajout de l’ingrédient de la ligne B du tableau 1 au mélange de phase A, puis homogénéisation pour obtenir un mélange uniforme (phases A et B) ;
2. ajout de l’ingrédient, le cas échéant, de la ligne C du tableau 1 au mélange des phases A et B, puis homogénéisation pour obtenir un mélange uniforme (phases A, B et C) ;
3. ajout des ingrédients des lignes D du tableau 1 au mélange des phases A et B, puis homogénéisation pour obtenir un mélange uniforme (phases A, B, C et D) et refroidissement du mélange obtenu à température ambiante (25 °C) ;
4. ajout des ingrédients des lignes E du tableau 1 au mélange des phases A, B, C et D, puis homogénéisation pour obtenir un mélange uniforme (phases A, B, C, D et E) ;
5. ajout de l’ingrédient de la ligne F du tableau 1 au mélange des phases A, B, C, D et E, puis homogénéisation pour obtenir un mélange uniforme (phases A, B, C, D, E et F) ; et
6. ajout de l’ingrédient de la ligne G du tableau 1 au mélange des phases A, B, C, D, E et F, puis homogénéisation pour obtenir un mélange uniforme (phases A, B, C, D, E, F et G) avec un pH de 7,0.

The following compositions, in the form of an O/W emulsion, were prepared according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 shown in Table 1 by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1 as follows:

1. mixing the ingredients of lines A of Table 1 at 75-80°C to form a uniform mixture of phase A;

1. adding the ingredient from line B of Table 1 to the phase A mixture, then homogenizing to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A and B);
2. adding the ingredient, if any, from line C of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A and B, then homogenizing to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B and C);
3. adding the ingredients of lines D of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A and B, then homogenizing to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C and D) and cooling the mixture obtained to room temperature (25°C);
4. adding the ingredients of lines E of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B, C and D, then homogenizing to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C, D and E);
5. adding the ingredient from line F of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B, C, D and E, then homogenizing to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C, D, E and F); and
6. adding the ingredient from line G of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B, C, D, E and F, then homogenizing to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C, D, E, F and G) with a pH of 7.0.

The numerical values for the quantities of the components given in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as raw materials .

Phase Ingredient Ex. 1 Ex. 2 Ex.
comp. 1 Ex.
comp. 2 HAS Glycerin 5 5 5 5 Propanediol 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Phenoxyethanol 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 (d) Water qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 qsp 100 (e) Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 (e) Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 B (has) Cellulose 2.75 2.75 - 2.75 C Silica 4 - 4 4 D (c) Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 3 3 3 3 (c) Ethylhexyl triazone 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 (c) Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 2 2 2 2 (c) Drometrizole trisiloxane 5 5 5 5 (c) Diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 1 1 1 1 (f) Isopropyl myristate 5 5 5 5 (f) Diisopropyl sebacate 5 5 5 5 (f) C15-19 alkane 3 3 3 3 (f) Dicaprylyl carbonate 8 8 8 8 (f) Isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate 4 4 4 4 E (b) Acrylates/methacrylate copolymer
from beheneth-25
(30% by weight AM in water
(70% by weight)) 0.8 0.8 0.8 - Ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate 0.15 0.15 0.15 0.15 F Ethanol 3 3 3 3 G Sodium hydroxide qs pH7 qs pH7 qs pH7 qs pH7 (following) (following) Viscosity (mPa.s) 51589 43747 19925 8548 Texture transformation Very good Very good Bad Very bad Non-sticky feel Very good Good Bad Very good Non-oily/non-greasy feel Very good Good Bad Very good Non-shiny appearance of the skin Very good Good Bad Very good Stability Very good Very good Bad Very bad

The properties of ingredient (a) (cellulose) in Table 1 are shown in Table 2.

Powder Shape Average size (μm) PM oil (ml/100 g) PM water (ml/100 g) Cellulose
(Cellulobeads USF, Daito Kasei) Sphere 4.0 296.0 400.8

Average size: Number-average primary particle size

PM oil: Wetting point for oil

PM water: Anchor point for water

(Wetting point for oil)

1. On a malaxé 2 g du composant en poudre avec une spatule sur une plaque de verre tout en ajoutant de l’isononanoate d’isononyle ayant une viscosité de 9 cP à 25 °C et une densité de 0,853 g/ml.

1. Lorsque le composant en poudre était complètement humide et commençait à former une pâte, on a déterminé le poids de l’huile ajoutée comme étant le poids du point de mouillage.
2. On a calculé le point de mouillage pour l’huile à partir de l’équation suivante : Point de mouillage pour l’huile (ml/100 g) = {(poids du point de mouillage)/2 g}X100/densité de l’huile.

The wetting point for oil was determined by the following protocol.

1. 2 g of the powdered component was kneaded with a spatula on a glass plate while adding isononyl isononanoate having a viscosity of 9 cP at 25 °C and a density of 0.853 g/ml.

1. When the powder component was completely wet and began to form a paste, the weight of the added oil was determined as the wetting point weight.
2. The wetting point for oil was calculated from the following equation: Wetting point for oil (ml/100 g) = {(wetting point weight)/2 g}X100/density of oil.

(Anchoring point for water)

1. On a malaxé 2 g du composant en poudre avec une spatule sur une plaque de verre tout en ajoutant de l’eau ayant une densité de 0,998 g/ml.

1. Lorsque le composant en poudre était complètement humide et commençait à former une pâte, on a déterminé le poids de l’eau ajoutée comme étant le poids du point de mouillage.
2. On a calculé le point de mouillage pour l’eau à partir de l’équation suivante : Point de mouillage pour l’eau (ml/100 g) = {(poids du point de mouillage)/2 g}X100/densité de l’eau.

The wetting point for water was determined by the following protocol.

1. 2 g of the powdered component was kneaded with a spatula on a glass plate while adding water with a density of 0.998 g/ml.

1. When the powder component was completely wet and began to form a paste, the weight of the added water was determined as the wetting point weight.
2. The wetting point for water was calculated from the following equation: Wetting point for water (ml/100 g) = {(weight of wetting point)/2 g}X100/density of water.

[Evaluations]

(Viscosity)

The viscosity of each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was measured at room temperature (25°C) with a type B viscometer under the conditions of rotor: No. 4, rotation speed: 6 rpm, and measurement time: 1 minute.

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Texture transformation)

Five professional panelists evaluated the “texture transformation” during the application of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2. Each panelist took each composition and applied it in a circular motion on his or her face. The panelists evaluated the moment when the texture transformation (from gel to liquid) occurred and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the evaluation:

Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (texture transformation is clearly noticeable at the beginning of the application)

Good: 3.9 to 3.0 (texture transformation is noticeable at the beginning of the application)

Bad: 2.9 to 2.0 (texture transformation is barely noticeable at the beginning of the application)

Very bad From 1.9 to 1.0 (texture transformation is not at all noticeable at the beginning of the application)

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Non-sticky feeling)

Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-sticky feeling” after applying the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to his or her face to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0 (no sticky feeling is noticeable after application)

Good: 3.9 to 3.0 (a sticky feeling is barely noticeable after application)

Bad: 2.9 to 2.0 (a sticky feeling is noticeable after application)

Very poor From 1.9 to 1.0 (a sticky feeling is clearly noticeable after application)

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Non-oily/non-greasy feel)

Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-oily/non-greasy feeling” after applying the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to his or her face to evaluate the non-sticky feeling after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average of the rating:

Very good: 5.0 to 4.0 (no oily/greasy feeling is noticeable after application)

Good: 3.9 to 3.0 (an oily/greasy feeling is barely noticeable after application)

Bad: 2.9 to 2.0 (an oily/greasy feeling is noticeable after application)

Very poor: 1.9 to 1.0 (an oily/greasy feeling is clearly noticeable after application)

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Non-shiny appearance of the skin)

Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-shiny appearance of the skin” after applying the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2. Each panelist took each composition and applied it to his or her face to evaluate the non-shiny appearance of the skin after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), and it was then classified into the following 4 categories according to the average of the rating:

Very good: 5.0 to 4.0 (no shine is noticeable after application)

Good: 3.9 to 3.0 (shine is barely noticeable after application)

Bad: 2.9 to 2.0 (shine is noticeable after application)

Very poor From 1.9 to 1.0 (a shine is clearly noticeable after application)

(Stability)

Each of the compositions according to Examples 1-2 and Comparative Examples 1-2 was placed in a glass bottle and kept under temperature variation conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C for 2 months. Each sample was then subjected to a study of the degree of change (appearance, colour and odour) and the stability was evaluated according to the following criteria:

Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.

Good: Few changes in appearance, color and odor were observed.

Bad: Changes in appearance, color and odor have been clearly observed.

Very bad Remarkable changes in appearance, color and odor have been noted.

The results are shown in Table 1.

(Summary)

As clearly shown in Table 1, the O/W emulsion composition according to the present invention (Examples 1 and 2) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of texture transformation during application; non-sticky feeling, non-oily/non-greasy feeling and non-shiny appearance, after application; and stability under temperature changes for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a) and (b) in the presence of ingredients (c) and (d). Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, excellent hand feeling and long-term stability even under temperature changes.

The composition according to Example 2 is more preferable than the composition according to Example 1, due to the presence of ingredient (g) (silica particles), in terms of non-sticky feeling, non-oily/non-greasy feeling and non-shiny appearance, after application.

On the other hand, the compositions according to Comparative Example 1 which did not include ingredient (a) (cellulose particles) exhibited inferior texture transformation, sticky feeling, oily/greasy feeling and shiny appearance, as well as instability.

The composition according to Comparative Example 2 which did not include ingredient (b) (acrylates/beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer) could not be thickened well and exhibited inferior texture transformation and instability.

Claims (10)

Composition, preferably cosmetic composition, and more preferably cosmetic composition for the skin, comprising:
(a) at least one cellulose particle;
(b) at least one associative polymer comprising one or more acrylic and/or methacrylic units;
(c) at least one lipophilic organic UV filter; and
(d) water. The composition of claim 1, wherein the particle size of the cellulose particle (a) is 50 μm or less, preferably 30 μm or less and more preferably 10 μm or less. A composition according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the cellulose particle (a) has
a wetting point for the oil of at least 40 ml/100 g, preferably at least 50 ml/100 g and more preferably at least 60 ml/100 g, and
a wetting point for water of at least 100 ml/100 g, preferably at least 200 ml/100 g and more preferably at least 300 ml/100 g. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the ratio of the wetting point for water to the wetting point for oil of the cellulose particle (a) is 5 or less, preferably 4 or less and more preferably 2 or less. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the cellulose particle (a) is spherical. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the associative polymer (b) comprises one or more C1-C12 alkyl ester units of (meth)acrylic acid. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the associative polymer (b) comprises one or more units derived from polyoxyalkylenated fatty alcohols. A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the lipophilic organic UV filter (c) is selected from the group consisting of drometrizole trisiloxane, bis(ethylhexyloxyphenol)methoxyphenyltriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, butyl methoxybenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl salicylate, octocrylene, homosalate and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, in which the composition further comprises (e) at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids, and more preferably, polyglyceryl monoesters of fatty acids. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin substance, comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the keratin substance.