FR3141346A1 - SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUNFLOWER WAX, HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL, A NON-VOLATILE OIL, ORGANIC COLORING PARTICLES AND METHOD USING IT - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUNFLOWER WAX, HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL, A NON-VOLATILE OIL, ORGANIC COLORING PARTICLES AND METHOD IMPLEMENTING IT The present invention relates to a solid cosmetic composition for makeup and/or skin and/or lip care, comprising: - hydrogenated jojoba oil, - sunflower wax, - at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar, preferably polar, - at least one pigment comprising at least one organic coloring compound, - the weight ratio of jojoba oil to sunflower wax being greater than 1 and less than or equal to 15, - the total wax content representing 8 to 20% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition. It also relates to a process for making up/and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, consisting of applying said composition.

Description

SOLID COMPOSITION COMPRISING SUNFLOWER WAX, HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL, A NON-VOLATILE OIL, ORGANIC COLORING PARTICLES AND METHOD USING IT

The present invention relates to a solid makeup and/or care composition, in particular for the lips, in the form of a stick, and comprising particular vegetable waxes, as well as organic peppers, as well as a process implementing it.

Cosmetic compositions intended for care and/or makeup, in particular of the lips, have been known for a very long time and are in the form of more or less thick fluids, such as, from less to more viscous, lip oils. and glosses, up to solid compositions in the form of sticks, supported or not, compositions in the form of pencils, or even compositions stored in pots.

In the case of lipstick sticks, which represents the most widespread galenic, these products must first of all retain their shape and stability when the storage or use temperature is high (typically above 35° VS). But the compositions must also be able to partially “melt” (or even disintegrate) when applied to the lips in order to deposit a sufficient quantity of product, evenly and pleasantly.

It is known to use waxes whose melting temperature is lower than 72.5°C, so-called low melting point waxes, which contribute to obtaining, during makeup, the desired slipperiness and softness properties. However, these low melting point waxes do not make it possible to obtain a solid form of sufficient hardness on their own, which is why they are combined with waxes whose melting temperature is greater than 72.5 °C, so-called high melting point waxes, but which can limit the cosmetic properties of application, reduce the quantity of product deposited on the lips during application or make it less pleasant and require multiple passes to have a makeup result that meets the user's expectations.

We therefore wish to limit, as much as possible, the proportion of these waxes with a high melting point while retaining good mechanical properties of the product, in particular hardness, without unreasonably increasing the quantity of product deposited, which would lead to a deposit too thick.

It is also known that pigments can modify the crystalline structure of the wax network, which can lead to weakening or softening of the product. It is then necessary to increase the percentage of waxes with a high melting point to compensate for this negative effect, which is not favorable to the cosmetic application properties as indicated previously.

Finally, in recent years, a new trend has clearly appeared among consumers who are focusing in a less exclusive way, but still present nonetheless, on the performance of the makeup composition. Indeed, more and more attention is paid to the ingredients used, their natural character in particular. The present invention is part of this trend and therefore relates more particularly to solid compositions for makeup and/or care, particularly for the lips, favoring the use of compounds of natural origin, in particular plant-based. One of the difficulties encountered is that natural waxes, due, among other things, to their affinity with vegetable oils, do not always structure the latter correctly, leading to sticks that are too soft or too hard, not allowing satisfactory application. of the composition and/or causing breakage of the stick.

The objectives of the present invention are therefore in particular to obtain a lipstick composition whose waxy system, of plant origin, is mainly composed of waxes with a low melting point and whose hardness of the product, in the presence of pigments, is sufficient to ensure good application properties of the composition, while maintaining good mechanical properties on the stick.

These and other aims are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a solid makeup and/or skin and/or lip care composition, comprising:
- hydrogenated jojoba oil
- sunflower wax
- at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar, preferably polar
- at least one coloring material chosen from organic pigments, organic lacquers, or mixtures thereof
- the weight ratio of jojoba oil to sunflower wax being greater than 1 and less than or equal to 15
- the total wax content representing 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

It also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, in particular the lips, in which the composition according to the invention is applied.

The composition according to the invention is therefore presented in a solid form, more particularly in the form of a stick, which has the advantage of having an appropriate hardness allowing easy, regular and sufficient application of the composition, without breakage of the stick. Furthermore, the quantity deposited on the lips is appropriate, neither too low nor too high, to obtain an appropriate makeup result, in a few strokes. In addition, the deposit obtained is precise, homogeneous, not very sticky, not very migrating and has satisfactory resistance over time. The deposit also does not dry out the lips and remains comfortable.

These and other advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

Note that in the remainder of the description, unless otherwise indicated, the limits indicated for a domain are included in this domain.

The expressions “at least one” and “several” are used interchangeably.

In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by total weight of the composition.

Hardness measurement protocol

The hardness of the composition is measured according to the following protocol:
The stick is stored at 20°C for 16 hours before measuring the hardness.
The hardness is measured at 20°C by the so-called "butter-cutting wire" method, which consists of cutting transversely a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, using a rigid tungsten wire of diameter 0.25 mm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/min.
The hardness of the samples, expressed in Nm ^-1 , is measured using a DFGS2 dynamometer sold by the company INDELCO-CHATILLON.
The measurement is reproduced three times then averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons then divided by L which represents the highest dimension crossed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).
The hardness is converted into Nm ^-1 by the equation opposite: (Y x 10 ^-3 x 9.8) / L.

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 100 and 220 Nm ^-1 .

Protocol for measuring the quantity deposited:

The measurement is carried out using a dynamic fragility device from the company Rematique Electronique Industrielle.
The test consists of evaluating the quantity of composition deposited on a determined support, after moving the stick positioned flat and parallel to the support, by applying a pressure at the end of the stick of between 75 and 80g, making a round trip per second at constant speed for 3 minutes.
The quantity deposited is directly calculated by weighing the stick of rouge and the packaging mechanism (without the cover) before and after the measurement on a precision balance.
This test also makes it possible to visually assess the resistance of the lipstick stick (crack, breakage, loss of alignment, loosening, etc.).

Measurement conditions:
Lipstick stick with a diameter of 12.7 mm, with a bevel shape (presence of a cut edge), the grape not being supported by a cap. For the measurement, the stick is pulled out as far as possible from the packaging mechanism.
The lipstick stick to be tested is placed in an enclosure thermostatically controlled at 20°C, 16 hours before the measurement.
Test temperature 20°C.
Force applied: 75 to 80 g at the end of the stick.
Support for the measurement: roll of paper for dynamic fragility device, supplier Rematique Electronique Industrielle (size of the support for the test: 9 cm x 4.6 cm).

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a quantity of composition deposited at 20°C and at atmospheric pressure of between 8 and 35 mg.

Protocol for measuring the melting temperature of a wax

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature (or melting point) corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.

The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC 2000” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of wax is placed in a crucible and subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled by 120°C. at -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
During the second rise in temperature, the melting point of the solid fatty substance is measured, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed.

RAINCOATS

The composition according to the invention comprises at least hydrogenated jojoba oil, sunflower wax, as a waxy system essential to the invention.

The composition may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, different from the two waxes mentioned previously, which will be detailed below.

It should be noted that, according to a particular embodiment of the invention, the total wax content represents 8 to 20% by weight, and preferably 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Furthermore, in accordance with a particularly advantageous variant of the invention, if the composition comprises at least one additional wax, then their content remains lower than that of hydrogenated jojoba oil.

HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL

Hydrogenated jojoba oil, called INCI Hydrogenated Jojoba Oil, is more particularly obtained by catalytic and total hydrogenation of jojoba oil obtained from the seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis. Total hydrogenation means obtaining a compound whose iodine index value is less than 2.

Hydrogenated jojoba oil is in the form of a solid whose melting temperature is between 67 and 72°C, more particularly 68 to 71°C.

Hydrogenated jojoba oil consists mainly of saturated monoesters, comprising 36 to 48 carbon atoms.

It is notably marketed by the company Vantage Specialty Chemicals under the trade reference Desert Whale Jojoba Wax Flakes.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a content of hydrogenated jojoba oil of between 4.5 and 18.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 5 and 14% by weight, for relative to the total weight of the composition.

SUNFLOWER WAX

Sunflower wax (INCI name: HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX) is obtained by cooling (winterization) of sunflower seed oil, filtration and finally refining. It is notably marketed by the company Koster Keunen.

It is in the form of a solid with a melting temperature between 74 and 77°C. It is mainly made up of saturated monoesters comprising 42 to 62 carbon atoms.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention has a sunflower wax content of between 0.5 and 9.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, the weight ratio of hydrogenated jojoba oil to sunflower wax is greater than 1, preferably it is less than 15. In accordance with an advantageous embodiment of the invention, said weight ratio is preferably between 1.5 and 12 and even more preferably between 2 and 10.

ADDITIONAL WAXES

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional wax, different from hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax.

This optional wax(es) may be polar or non-polar.

More particularly, it is recalled that a wax is generally a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature (20°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to 40 °C and less than or equal to 120°C, more particularly less than or equal to 90°C.

Polar waxes

By “hydrocarbon polar wax” is meant a wax formed essentially, or even made up, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and comprising at least one oxygen atom, possibly nitrogen. These compounds therefore do not contain any silicon atom.

More particularly, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax, different from hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, is chosen from hydrocarbon waxes, comprising an ester function.

By “ester wax”, according to the invention is meant a wax comprising at least one ester function. Ester waxes can additionally be hydroxylated.

Among the polar hydrocarbon waxes which can be used in the context of the present invention, we can cite, alone or in mixtures:

(i) Waxes of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen, and whose melting temperature varies from 40 to 120°C, preferably from 40 to 100°C.
In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax a (hydroxystearyloxy) C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture or a C ₂₀ - alkyl stearate. _C40 . Such waxes are sold in particular under the names KESTER WAX® K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®, KESTER WAX® K 80 P, or KESTER WAX® K82H by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. It is also possible to use mixtures of esters of C ₁₄ -C ₁₈ carboxylic acids and alcohols such as the products Cetyl Ester Wax 814 from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, SP Crodamol MS MBAL, Crodamol MS PA from the company CRODA, Miraceti from the LASERSON company.

ii) Diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula R ₃ -(-OCO-R ₄ -COO-R ₅ ), in which R ₃ and R ₅ are identical or different, preferably identical and represent an alkyl group in C ₄ -C ₃₀ and R ₄ represents a linear or branched C ₄ -C ₃₀ aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations. Preferably, the C ₄ -C ₃₀ aliphatic group is linear and unsaturated.
iii) Partial or total esters, preferably total, of a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acid, saturated, optionally hydroxylated, with glycerol, such as for example, glyceryl Trèsstearate (INCI name: TRISTEARIN), Trèstearate glyceryl (INCI name: TRIHYDROXYSTEARIN), glyceryl tribehenate (INCI name: TRIBEHENIN), alone or in mixture.

iv) Waxes of animal or vegetable origin, different from sunflower wax.
Examples of suitable waxes include beeswax, lanolin wax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel, refined or not, as well as their mixtures.

v) Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, different from hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin (such as for example lauric, cetyl, stearyl, myristyl, behenyl alcohols) and vegetable oil, such as olive oil, castor oil.
Mention may be made more particularly of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having in particular fatty chains, linear or branched, in C ₈ -C ₃₂ , for example such as hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil.
As waxes resulting from the hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil, we can also cite the following INCI name waxes: Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Cetyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Cetyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Stearyl Castor Esters, Hydrogenated Behenyl Castor Esters. Such waxes are notably marketed under the names PHYTOWAX® Olive 12 L44, PHYTOWAX® Olive 14 L 48, PHYTOWAX® Olive 16 L 55, PHYTOWAX® Olive 18 L 57, PHYTOWAX® Castor 16 L 64, PHYTOWAX® Castor 18 L 69 and PHYTOWAX® Castor 22 L 73 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR2792190.

Preferably, if the composition includes it, the additional polar hydrocarbon wax(es) are chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, different from sunflower wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, different from hydrogenated jojoba oil, or by hydrogenation of esters obtained from C6-C22 fatty alcohols of vegetable origin and vegetable oil, as well as than their mixtures.

More particularly the additional hydrocarbon polar wax(es) are chosen from beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax; among hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as waxes obtained by hydrogenation of esterified castor or olive oil, as well as than their mixtures. In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises it, the additional wax(es) are chosen from among candelilla wax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, castor oil hydrogenated, hydrogenated olive oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Stearyl Esters, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Myristyl Esters, and mixtures thereof.

Additional non-polar waxes

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise apolar hydrocarbon wax (in other words consisting only of carbon and hydrogen atoms), resulting from the transformation of petroleum, such as for example polyethylene waxes, waxes polymethylene (Synthetic Wax, Fischer-Tropsch waxes), alone or in mixtures.

If, however, the composition included them, their content would not exceed 5% by weight, preferably would not exceed 3% by weight, advantageously would not exceed 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

PASTY HYDROCARBON COMPOUND

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound.

By "pasty compound", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting temperature lower than 20°C.

The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes. In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows :
A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled by 100°C. C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to go from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:

- vegetable butters , such as for example mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER, such as that marketed under the Sheasoft® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

- totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soya, copra, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL), the partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the reference commercial Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance;

- esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid such as for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL;

- esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched, preferably saturated, C ₆ -C ₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and esters of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, preferably saturated, in C ₆ -C ₂₀ , in particular the diester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C ₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid , stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, notably marketed under the reference SOFTISAN® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo. (INCI name: BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2);

- triglycerides of fatty acids , saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example glycerides of C12-C18 saturated fatty acids marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES);

- esters of dimer diol, or polyol, and diacid dimer such as for example:

* dimer esters of dilinoleic alcohol and dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

* esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL/STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE);

* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid dimer, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE).

Preferably, if the composition comprises it, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, esters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C ₆ -C ₁₀ dicarboxylic acid and ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, C ₆ -C ₂₀ , triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly hydroxylated, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ as well as their mixtures.

Even more preferably, if the composition comprises it, the pasty compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, the compounds with the INCI name BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2 and HYDROGENATED COCO-GLYCERIDES, BIS-BEHENYL / ISOSTEARYL / PHYTOSTERYL DIMER DILINOLEYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, PHYTOSTERYL / ISOSTEARYL / CETYL/STEARYL / BEHENYL DIMER DILINOLEATE, HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE, as well as mixtures thereof

If the composition includes them, preferably their content varies from 5 to 35% by weight, preferably from 7 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar.

By “non-volatile oil” is meant fatty compounds, insoluble in water, liquid at 20°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), whose vapor pressure at 20°C is non-zero and less than 2, 66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. As an example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104) .

By “hydrocarbon oil” is meant an oil formed essentially, or even made up of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and also comprising at least one oxygen atom, possibly nitrogen. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

POLAR HYDROCARBON OILS

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil.

A polar oil within the meaning of the invention comprises, in addition to the carbon and hydrogen atoms, at least one oxygen or nitrogen atom, and preferably at least one oxygen atom.

Among the non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oils suitable for carrying out the invention, mention may be made of oils more particularly chosen from:
- C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols, preferably monohydroxylated;
- ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-C16;
- non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the number of total carbon atoms preferably being at least 12
- their mixtures;
Alcohols in C ₁₀ -C ₂₆

Alcohols are more particularly fatty alcohols. They comprise a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, comprising 10 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably comprising 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably 12 to 22 carbon atoms. They are preferably monohydroxylated.

Preferably, the said alcohol(s) are chosen from lauryl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and preferably octyldodecanol.

Non-volatile ether or carbonate oils

Among suitable non-volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C ₃ -C ₁₆ .

• le dicaprylyl ether,
• le dipropyl carbonate, le diethylhexyl carbonate, le dicaprylyl carbonate, le C14-15 dialkyl carbonate,

Preferably, the oil(s) can be chosen from:

• dicaprylyl ether,
• dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate,

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils with ester function(s)

The non-volatile hydrocarbon oil may also comprise at least one oil chosen more particularly from hydrocarbon compounds comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, the number of atoms of total carbon preferably being at least 12. In addition, the ester oil may optionally comprise one or more ether or hydroxyl functions.

Among the suitable ester oils, mention may be made of mono and di esters optionally comprising one or two ether groups; triesters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally comprising one to three ether groups; tetraesters; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol; esters and polyesters of mono- or dicarboxylic acid and dimer diol or monoalcohols; vegetable oils, as well as their mixtures.

* Mono- or di-esters, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising more particularly from 12 to 80 carbon atoms, and optionally one or two ether groups. Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoesters or diesters obtained from monocarboxylic or dicarboxylic fatty acid, saturated or not, in particular comprising from 4 to 28, preferably from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, optionally comprising at at least one free hydroxyl, on the one hand, and monoalcohol or polyol, saturated or not, comprising from 2 to 26, in particular from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, and 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups, on the other hand; the number of carbon atoms being at least 12, preferably at least 16. In addition, the ester may optionally comprise one or two ether groups and optionally one or two hydroxyl groups.
As examples, mention may be made of octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isostearyl heptanoate, cetostearyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, palmitate 2-ethyl hexyl, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, butyl stearate , octyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, glycerin stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isostearyl behenate, isocetyl stearate, mixtures of esters of capric acid, caprylic acid and alcohol from coconut (C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alcohols), 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, oleyl erucate, coconut lactate isostearyl, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, isocetyl stearyl stearate, diisostearyl adipate, or mixtures thereof.
We can also mention the esters, optionally hydroxylated, of a C ₂ -C ₈ mono or polycarboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol. In particular, the monoesters of a C ₂ -C ₈ carboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol, optionally hydroxylated, are suitable for implementing the invention; and the diesters of a C ₂ -C ₈ dicarboxylic acid and of a C ₂ -C ₈ alcohol, optionally hydroxylated; such as diisopropyl adipate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dibutyl adipate, bis (2-ethylhexyl) succinate.
Mention may also be made of esters of monocarboxylic acid, saturated or unsaturated, in particular comprising from 4 to 28 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, and of diols, in particular glycols, in particular C ₂ - C ₅ , glycerol or polyglycerol. Mention may be made, for example, of propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monoricinoleate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dioctanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, ethylene glycol dibenzoate, diethylene glycol dibenzoate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and mixtures thereof.

*Linear or branched triesters, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprising up to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups. Suitable for the invention are esters obtained from mono- or poly-carboxylic acids, linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, optionally hydroxylated, in C ₂ -C ₄₀ , preferably in C ₄ -C ₄₀ and C ₂ -C ₄₀ polyols or monoalcohols, preferably C ₃ -C ₄₀ ; said polyesters optionally comprising at least one free hydroxyl.
We can for example use triacetin, as well as triglycerides of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, C ₄ -C ₃₆ , more particularly C ₈ -C ₂₀ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, such as for example triglycerides of acids heptanoic or octanoic, in particular, we can cite saturated triglycerides such as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, for example such as the products marketed under the DUB MCT range by the company Stéarinerie Dubois, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, C _18-36 acid triglycerides such as those sold under the reference DUB TGI 24 sold by Stéarineries Dubois), glyceryl triisostearate.
Mention may also be made of triesters of glycerol or polyglycerol and of monocarboxylic acids such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate and glyceryl tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate.
By way of example, we can also mention oils comprising three ester functions, optionally hydroxylated or acetylated, of acid comprising three carboxylic functions, in C ₂ -C ₉ , optionally hydroxylated, and of C ₂ -C ₂₀ monoalcohol. Mention may be made of citric acid esters such as, for example, triethyl citrate, trioctyl citrate, tributyl citrate, acetyl tributyl citrate, as well as tridecyl trimellitate, as well as mixtures thereof.

* Tetraesters comprising in particular from 35 to 80 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one to three ether groups, such as tetraesters of penthaerythritol or polyglycerol and of a monocarboxylic acid, for example such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate , pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate or even pentaerythrityl tetradecyl-2 tetradecanoate.

* Polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. Mention may in particular be made in this respect of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer), or even copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailucent ISDA, of INCI name Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer.

* Esters of dimer diol or polyol and mono- and/or dicarboxylic acid. Mention may be made, for example, of dimer diol and fatty acid esters and esters of dimer diols and dimer dicarboxylic acid, in particular which can be obtained from a dimer dicarboxylic acid derived in particular from the dimerization of an acid. unsaturated fat in particular in C ₈ to C ₃₄ , in particular in C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , in particular in C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ , and more particularly in C ₁₈ , such as esters of dilinoleic acids and of dilinoleic diol dimers, of INCI name Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, for example such as those marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical under the trade name Lusplan DD- ^DA5® and DD- ^DA7® .
Also suitable are esters resulting from the esterification of a polyol, of at least one monocarboxylic acid and of at least one dicarboxylic acid, as described in particular in patent US7317068. The polyol more particularly comprises 2 to 20 carbon atoms and 2 to 8 hydroxyl groups, preferably pentaerythritol. More particularly, the monocarboxylic acid comprises 4 to 30 carbon atoms, more particularly 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as preferably stearic, isostearic, caprylic, capric acids, or their combinations. As for the dicarboxylic acid, linear or branched , saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, it more particularly comprises 4 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably is adipic acid. As examples, we can cite Pentaerythrityl Isostearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate, marketed in particular under the name Crodamol L by the company Croda, Pentaerythrityl Adipate/Caprate/Caprylate/Heptanoate marketed under the name Lexfeel 700 EX-LO- MB by the company Inolex.

* vegetable oils such as castor oil, olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, coriander seed oil, macadamia oil, passionflower oil, argan, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, avocado oil, rosa canina oil, apricot kernel oil, flax, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, kaya oil, Marula oil, Camelina oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, oil pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, hazelnut oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, meadowfoam oil, black cumin oil, buriti oil, sandalwood nut oil, Babassu oil, liquid fraction shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter as well as their mixtures

Preferably, a non-hydroxylated vegetable oil is chosen, and even more advantageously chosen from olive oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, macadamia oil, sesame oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, avocado oil, apricot kernel oil, flaxseed oil, sweet almond oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, rice bran oil , alfalfa oil, safflower oil, meadowfoam oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of cocoa butter, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably among, the hydrocarbon oil(s) are chosen from:
- vegetable oils, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, preferably non-hydroxylated, in particular those which have just been listed;
- ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, preferably 3 or 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms;
- their mixtures.

As particularly advantageous oils, we can cite non-hydroxylated vegetable oils, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. and pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil.

More particularly, the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

NON-VOLATILE NON-POLAR HYDROCARBON OILS

By “non-polar oil” within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil chosen from hydrocarbons, that is to say from compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms.

More particularly, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, such as for example:
- paraffin oil,
- squalane, particularly of plant origin,
- isoeicosane,
- mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28, such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane C18-21 Alkane, C21-28 Alkane, such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC,
- polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the company Ineos Oligomers,
- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example the non-volatile compounds of the Parléam® range marketed by the company Nippon Oil & Fat,
- polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-volatile compounds from the Silkflo range marketed by the company Ineos, Dekanex by the company IMCD,
- and their mixtures.

If the composition comprises it, the content of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL OILS

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional oil chosen from silicone oils, non-volatile or volatile, or from volatile hydrocarbon oils.

By “volatile oil” we mean an oil having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular going to 13,000 Pa, and more particularly going to 1300 Pa.

SILICONE OILS

By “silicone oil” is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises limited contents of volatile or non-volatile silicone oils.

As examples of volatile silicone oils, we can cite in particular dimethicone with a viscosity of less than 5cSt (5 x 10 ^-3 mm²/s, measured in particular according to the ASTM D-445 standard), octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

With regard to non-volatile silicone oils, the latter may be non-phenylated, or phenylated comprising or not at least one dimethicone moiety.

The term “phenylated” specifies that said oil contains at least one phenyl radical in its structure.

The terms “dimethicone fragment” designate a divalent siloxane group whose silicon atom carries two methyl radicals, this group not being found at one or both ends of the molecule. It can be represented by the following formula: -(Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ -O)-.

Preferably, the silicones do not contain a C ₂ -C ₃ alkylene oxide group, nor a glycerol group.

Among the non-phenylated non-volatile silicones, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (INCI name: DIMETHICONE), alkyldimethicones comprising at least one C ₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl group, as well as their mixtures.

Among the phenylated non-volatile silicones comprising at least one dimethicone moiety, we can cite the following INCI name compounds: Trimethylsiloxyphenyl Dimethicone, Diphenyl Dimethicone, Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane as well as their mixtures.

With regard to non-volatile phenyl silicone oils, devoid of dimethicone fragment(s), we can cite the compounds with the following INCI names Phenyltrimethicone, Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane, alone or in mixtures.

More particularly, if the composition comprises it, the content of silicone oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than or equal to 5%, and preferably the composition is devoid of it.

VOLATILE HYDROCARBON OILS

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, preferably non-polar, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular:
- branched alkanes in C ₈ -C ₁₆ such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C ₈ -C ₁₆ , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names d 'Isopar, marketed by the company ExxonMobil,
- linear alkanes, preferably for example such as the mixture of n-decane (C10) and n-dodecane (C12) sold by Biosynthis under the reference Vegelight silk, n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14 ) sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97 , the undecane-tridecane mixture (Cetiol UT), the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the Cognis Company and their mixtures.

More particularly, if the composition comprises it, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 1 to 25% and preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PIGMENTS COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC COMPOUND

According to another characteristic of the invention, the composition comprises at least one pigment comprising at least one organic coloring compound.

By “pigment” is meant a white or colored particle, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

The term “pigment comprising at least one organic coloring compound” means a pigment which may be partially or totally constituted by an organic coloring compound, of synthetic or natural origin, and in the latter case of plant or animal origin. Reference is also made to the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.

More particularly, the pigment which can be used according to the invention is chosen from organic pigments, lacquers, nacres comprising at least one organic coloring compound, as well as their mixtures.

ORGANIC PIGMENT

The organic pigment usable in the context of the present invention may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo , dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 7005, pigments green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 00, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic and phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The organic pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP1184426. These composite pigments may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of the organic pigments on the core.

LACQUER

The pigment can also be a lacquer.

By “lacquer”, we designate at least one insolubilized organic dye adsorbed on an insoluble particle (substrate), the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the organic dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. We can also cite the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

PEARL OF PEARL COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORGANIC COMPOUND

The pigment usable in the composition according to the invention can also be a mother-of-pearl comprising at least one organic compound.

By “pearl”, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an organic dye. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and at least one organic coloring material are superimposed.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example , monochromatic pigments, as long as they include at least one organic coloring compound. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of the effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then transport them.

The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

For the purposes of the invention, “the coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

Preferably, the coloring material content represents 0.1 to 20% by weight, and even more particularly 1 to 15% by weight, and even more advantageously 2 to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

ADDITIONAL COLORING MATERIALS

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional coloring material, different from the organic pigments described above.

This additional coloring matter may be synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

The additional coloring matter can be chosen from coated or uncoated mineral pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

MINERAL PIGMENTS

By “mineral pigment” we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta ₂ O ₅ , Ti ₃ O ₅ , Ti ₂ O ₃ , TiO, ZrO ₂ mixed with TiO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , Nb ₂ O ₅ , CeO ₂ , ZnS.

The size of the pigment is generally greater than 100 nm and can be up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] greater than 100 nm and which can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm. The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as MasterSizer 3000® from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range ranging from 0.01 µm. at 1000 µm. The data is processed based on classical Mie diffusion theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size presented by 50% by volume the particles.

In the context of the present invention, if they are present, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. By way of example, we can cite more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

As mineral pigments usable in the invention, we can also cite mother-of-pearl.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, as well as pigments pearlescent based on bismuth oxychloride.

Mother-of-pearl can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example , monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of the effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

What has been detailed previously on this subject, concerning pigments comprising at least one organic coloring compound, remains valid for mineral pigments and will not be repeated here.

COLORANTS

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the additional coloring material can be chosen from fat-soluble dyes.

By “fat-soluble dye”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase of the composition and capable of coloring.

As fat-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fat-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet. 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown.

As an illustration of natural fat-soluble dyes, we can particularly cite carotenes such as β-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinole yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, if the composition comprises it, the content of additional coloring material(s) varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 10% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WATER

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise water. Preferably, the water content does not exceed 5% by weight, preferably does not exceed 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Even more advantageously, the water content, if the composition includes it, does not exceed 1% by weight, in particular does not exceed 0.5% by weight, and even more particularly does not exceed 0.2% by weight, relative to the weight total composition.

OPTIONAL ADJUVANTS

In the context of the present invention, the composition may also contain at least one optional adjuvant chosen from those usually used in the cosmetic field, in particular for makeup and/or skin and lip care compositions.

As examples, we can cite lipophilic thickening agents such as silicas, organic gelling agents (organogelators); clays; charges ; conservatives; antioxidants; complexing agents; solvents; actives ; perfumes ; etc.

These adjuvants as well as their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property sought for the composition of the invention.

These optional adjuvants may be present at a content of up to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The examples which follow will provide a better understanding of the invention, without however being limiting.

Raw materials are named by their chemical name or INCI.

The quantities indicated are in % by weight of raw materials, unless otherwise stated.

EXAMPLES EXAMPLES 1

The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are summarized in the table below:

Ingredients Composition 1 Composition 2 LIMNANTHES ALBA (MEADOWFOAM) SEED OIL
(Fancor Meadowfoam Seed Oil, marketed by the company Elementis) 15 15 OLEA EUROPAEA (OLIVE) FRUIT OIL
(REFINED ORGANIC OLIVE OIL, marketed by AARHUSKARLSHAMN) 15 15 CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE
(MASESTER E7000 Medium Chain Triglycerides, marketed by the company USIM MAS) 32 26 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX
(SUNFLOWER WAX DOUBLE REFINED, marketed by the company Koster Keunen) 4 4 EUPHORBIA CERIFERA (CANDELILLA) WAX
(820 LIGHT SPECIAL CANDELILLA REAL, marketed by the company Multiceras) 4 4 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (marketed by the company Desert Whale) 6 6 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL DIMER DILINOLEATE (Risocast DA-L, marketed by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO) 14 - BIS-DIGLYCERYL POLYACYLADIPATE-2
(Softisan 649, marketed by the company CREMER OLEO - 20 Red 7 3.7 3.7 Red 28 Lake 3.4 3.4 Iron oxide 2.5 2.5 Titanium dioxide 0.4 0.4

Preparation process:
1. Grind the pigments in the portion of oil(s) necessary for good dispersion using a three-cylinder mill or ball mill.
2. In a suitable container, heat the waxes, the pasty compound and the rest of the oils to 98°C to obtain a homogeneous mixture.
3. Add the pigment/oil(s) mixture to the mixture from the previous step, while stirring.
4. Once the mixture is well homogenized, the composition is poured into molds preheated to 42°C.
5. Place the molds in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C until the mold rises to a temperature of 4°C.
6. Unmold the sticks.

Evaluation of compositions

Composition 1 Composition 2 Hardness 200Nm ^-1 200Nm ^-1 Quantity deposited 15.33 mg 19.67 mg Appearance of the grape (after production) Homogeneous, satin Homogeneous, satin Appearance of the grapes after the deposition test No defect (crack, loss of alignment) is noted No defect (crack, loss of alignment) is noted Application Good slipperiness, creamy deposit, and comfortable, good coverage, non-sticky Good slipperiness, creamy deposit, and comfortable, good coverage, non-sticky

EXAMPLES 2

The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are summarized in the table below.

Ingredients Compositions
according to the invention Comparative compositions 3 4 5 6 HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (marketed by the company Desert Whale) 9.6 9.6 9.6 10.7 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, marketed by the company Koster Keunen) 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.3 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX (NC 1720, marketed by the company Cera Rica Noda) 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.3 Calcium salt of lithol red B (Red 7) 10.0 - - - Phoxin B disodium salt aluminum lake on alumina (Red 28 lake) - 10 - - Red iron oxide - - 10 - PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); marketed by Croda) 78.0 78.0 78.0 86.7 Hydrogenated jojoba oil/sunflower wax ratio 8 8 8 8

The compositions comprising coloring materials were determined from 90% of the comparative composition 6. This thus makes it possible to maintain the same proportions of waxes and oil.

Process for preparing compositions comprising a coloring material :

1. Grind the pigments in the portion of oil(s) necessary for good dispersion using a three-cylinder mill or ball mill.
2. In a suitable container, melt, with stirring at 98-100°C, the hydrogenated jojoba oil, sunflower wax and rice bran wax, with the remaining quantity of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate and stir until obtaining a homogeneous mixture.
3. Then add the ground material from the first step, with stirring, and leave stirring until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained.
4. Pour the mixture at 98-100°C into a mold (cell diameter 12.7 mm) previously heated to 42°C. Allow the surface to set at room temperature, remove and place in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C.
5. When the mold reaches 4°C, unmold the stick.

Process for preparing the composition devoid of coloring matter :

The process described above is reproduced with the exception of the first and third steps; the second step being continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Evaluation of compositions

Assessment Compositions according to the invention Comparative compositions 3 4 5 6 Hardness (N.m ^-1 ) 153 120 74 63 Appearance of the stick The sticks obtained are homogeneous and without defects The sticks obtained are homogeneous and without defects Application / filing Each composition is easy to apply with good gliding. The deposit is relatively fine, homogeneous and precise, not very sticky, comfortable and not very migrating The compositions apply a little less easily (they crush a little) . The deposit is thicker and a little stickier

EXAMPLES 3

The following compositions were prepared, the list of ingredients and contents of which are summarized in the table below.

Ingredients Composition 7
invention Composition 8
invention Composition 9 comparative HYDROGENATED JOJOBA OIL (marketed by the company Desert Whale) 7.2 9.6 2.4 HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (Sunflower Wax Double Refined, marketed by the company Koster Keunen) 2.4 1.2 4.8 ORYZA SATIVA (RICE) BRAN WAX (NC 1720, marketed by the company Cera Rica Noda) 2.4 1.2 4.8 Calcium salt of lithol red B (Red 7) 10.0 10.0 10.0 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRAISOSTEARATE (CRODAMOL PTIS-LQ-(MV); marketed by Croda) 78.0 78.0 78.0 Hydrogenated jojoba oil/sunflower wax ratio 3 8 0.5

Process for preparing compositions comprising a coloring material :
1. Grind the pigments in the portion of oil(s) necessary for good dispersion using a three-cylinder mill or ball mill.
2. In a suitable container, melt, with stirring at 98-100°C, the hydrogenated jojoba oil, sunflower wax and rice bran wax, with the remaining quantity of pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate. and stir until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.
3. Then add the ground material from the first step, with stirring, while hot, and leave stirring until a homogeneous dispersion is obtained.
4. Pour the mixture at 98-100°C into a mold (cell diameter: 12.7 mm) previously heated to 42°C. Allow the surface to set at room temperature, remove and place in the freezer between -25°C and -20°C.
5. When the mold reaches 4°C, unmold the stick.

Evaluation of compositions

Composition 7
invention Composition 8 invention Composition 9 comparative Hardness (N.m ^-1 ) 156 153 125 Quantity deposited 33.33 mg 12 mg 36.67 mg Appearance of the stick The sticks obtained are homogeneous and without defects Application / filing Easy application with good gliding. The deposit is homogeneous, not very sticky, comfortable Easy application with good gliding. The deposit is homogeneous and finer than that of composition 7. It is precise, not very sticky, comfortable The composition applies less easily than composition 7 and the resulting deposit is very thick,

Claims (22)

Solid makeup and/or skin and/or lip care composition, comprising:
- hydrogenated jojoba oil,
- sunflower wax,
- at least one non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, polar or non-polar, preferably polar,
- at least one pigment comprising at least one organic coloring compound,
- the weight ratio of jojoba oil to sunflower wax being greater than 1 and less than or equal to 15,
- the total wax content representing 8 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil varies from 4.5 to 18.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 14%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the sunflower wax content varies from 0.5 to 9.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 7.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of hydrogenated jojoba oil to sunflower wax is between 1.5 and 12 and even more preferably between 2 and 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total wax content represents 10 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one additional polar hydrocarbon wax, different from hydrogenated jojoba oil and sunflower wax, more particularly chosen from hydrocarbon waxes comprising at least an ester function, and in particular among, alone or in mixtures:
i) waxes of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 and R2 represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom in particular oxygen, and whose temperature point melting ranges from 40 to 120°C,
ii) diester waxes of a dicarboxylic acid of general formula
R3-(-OCO-R4-COO-R5), in which R3 and R5 are identical or different, preferably identical and represent a C4-C30 alkyl group (alkyl group comprising from 4 to 30 carbon atoms) and R4 represents a linear or branched C4-C30 aliphatic group which may or may not contain one or more unsaturations,
iii) partial or total esters, preferably total, of a saturated C16-C30 carboxylic acid with glycerol,
iv) waxes of animal or vegetable origin,
v) waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional wax is chosen from waxes of animal or vegetable origin, different from sunflower wax; waxes obtained by hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils other than hydrogenated jojoba oil; and their mixtures, and preferably chosen from candelilla wax, beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax; among hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, as well as mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 10 or 11, characterized in that the content of additional polar hydrocarbon wax(es), different from sunflower wax and oil of hydrogenated jojoba, is lower than the content of hydrogenated jojoba oil. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it may optionally comprise at least one non-polar hydrocarbon wax derived from the transformation of petroleum, at a content not exceeding 5% by weight, preferably not exceeding 3%. by weight, advantageously not exceeding 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is polar, more particularly chosen from:
- C ₁₀ -C _{26 alcohols;}
- ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C3-C16;
- non-volatile hydrocarbon ester oils comprising one or more ester functions and comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic hydrocarbon group, the number of total carbon atoms preferably being at least 12
- their mixtures;
and preferably among:
- vegetable oils, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, preferably non-hydroxylated;
- ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms;
- their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-volatile hydrocarbon oil is non-polar, more particularly chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin such as for example:
- paraffin oil,
- vegetable squalane,
- isoeicosane,
- mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C15-C28,
- polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not
- and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil(s) varies from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s), if the composition includes any, varies from 20 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one silicone oil, volatile or non-volatile, at a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably the composition is free of it. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, at a content varying from 1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound, chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, esters resulting from the condensation of a linear dicarboxylic acid or branched at C ₆ -C ₁₀ and ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, at C ₆ -C ₂₀ , triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, optionally mono or poly hydroxylated, C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ , esters of dimer diol or polyol and dimer diacid, as well as mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of pasty compound, if the composition includes it, varies from 5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic pigment is chosen from pigments comprising totally or partially at least one organic coloring compound, such as for example organic pigments, organic lacquers, nacres comprising at least one organic coloring compound, composite pigments comprising at least one organic coloring compound, as well as mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of organic pigment(s) represents 5 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it optionally comprises water at a content not exceeding 2% by weight, preferably not exceeding 1% by weight, advantageously not exceeding 0.5 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a stick, in particular having a hardness of between 100 and 200 Nm ^-1 . Process for making up/and/or caring for the skin and/or lips, consisting of applying the composition according to any one of the preceding claims.