FR3136158A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and amphoteric surfactants, and cosmetic treatment method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprising at least 0.5% by weight of amino acid type compounds, at least 0.5% by weight of hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms. , and/or their salts, and one or more amphoteric surfactants. The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and/or conditioning, of hair, using said composition.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising amino acids, hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids and amphoteric surfactants, and cosmetic treatment method

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular hair composition, comprising one or more amino acid type compounds, one or more hydroxy carboxylic acids and one or more amphoteric surfactants. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method using said composition.

Consumers around the world generally find themselves in contact with a wide variety of water sources which have an impact on hair, particularly on its cosmetic properties and/or the performance of hair products.

So-called mineral waters contain, for example, variable quantities of minerals present in the form of dissolved ions such as calcite (present in the form of calcium), dolomite (present in the form of calcium and magnesium), magnetite (present in the form of iron ) and chalcanthite (present in the form of copper). So-called hard water is also concentrated in minerals such as calcium and magnesium and swimming pool water is concentrated in copper salts from algaecides used in the treatment of swimming pools.

Hair has a strong tendency to absorb these minerals and/or their metallic salts because of the presence on their surface of anionic functions which correspond in particular to the sulfonic or carboxylic functions of keratin. Furthermore, the isoelectric point of the hair is generally described between 3.2 and 4. As a result, in everyday life, the pH of the water applied to the hair is greater than such values, which leads to a fiber negatively charged.

Minerals, often versatile cations, will therefore be attracted and captured by this negatively charged fiber by forming chemical bonds which prevent their release by conventional hair treatment processes. This results in a possible accumulation of minerals on the hair over time. Such fixation depends not only on the hardness of the water, the frequency and/or duration of exposure of the hair to the water in question but also on the nature and length of the hair (in particular porosity and load) as well as than their damaged state.

The accumulation of these minerals and/or their metallic salts can cause modifications to the hair fiber and, in particular, a more or less marked modification of the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus an accumulation of calcium and magnesium can lead to dry hair, lacking shine, while an accumulation of copper can lead to greening of the hair.

In addition, the accumulation of metal salts (iron, copper, for example) can accelerate damage to hair because they catalyze redox reactions and generate HO° hydroxyl radicals that can be harmful to the keratin fiber, including low levels.

This can result in photo-degradation of the fiber, lightening of the fiber, as well as an alteration of the properties of the hair, which can lead to premature breakage of the hair; These phenomena are particularly observed during the subsequent use of lightening products or coloring products.

In other words, hair can become less resistant, more weakened, or even break more easily, or even lose its shine, due to the accumulation of minerals and/or their metallic salts.

There is therefore a real need to have compositions making it possible to combat the accumulation of metal ions, from minerals and metal salts dissolved in water, or even to allow them to be extracted from keratin fibers, in order to limit their negative impacts. and overcome all of the disadvantages mentioned above.

The composition which is the subject of the present invention, and its implementation, make it possible to achieve this goal.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprising:

- one or more compounds of the amino acid type, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,

- one or more hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or their salts, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and

- one or more amphoteric surfactants.

It has been found that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to improve the resistance to breakage of the hair, to strengthen the hair and also to significantly limit its reduction or loss of shine, undesirable effects likely to be caused by the presence of metal ions, in particular copper or calcium, within said fibers.

After application of the composition, the fibers are reinforced, said reinforcement being improved progressively with successive applications of the composition.

The composition according to the invention has good foaming properties and gives the hair good cosmetic properties, in particular a smooth feel, softness, shine and easy detangling, while providing strength, body and a mass effect on the hair.

It finds a very particular application in cosmetic treatment, in particular the washing and/or conditioning, of sensitized, weakened and/or damaged keratin fibers, in particular following physical treatments (repeated brushing) and/or chemical treatments, for example coloring. , bleaching, perming and/or straightening.

It is particularly suitable for cosmetic treatment, in particular washing and/or conditioning, of keratin fibers loaded with metals, in particular calcium and/or copper, at contents of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm; in particular loaded with copper, in particular at contents of at least 100 ppm, better still at least 200 ppm and/or loaded with calcium in particular at contents of at least 4,000 ppm, better still at least 10,000 ppm.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from… to…”.

Furthermore, the expression “at least one” used in this description is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted for it.

Amino acid compounds

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of the amino acid type.

By compound of amino acid type is meant for the purposes of the present invention an organic compound comprising one or more carboxylic acid and/or sulfonic acid functions, and one or more amine functions, the amine function(s) being able to be intra-cyclic, optionally under form of salt.

Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) are chosen from amino acid type compounds comprising only one or more carboxylic acid functions (therefore not comprising a sulfonic acid function) and/or their salts. Said compounds are also called compounds of the amino carboxylic acid type and are particularly preferred.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more compounds of the amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) below and/or their salts.

Amino acid type compounds can therefore correspond to formula (I):

in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
- when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl;
- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ) alkyl group, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or –NH –C(NH)–NH ₂ .

Preferably, when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising 5 members, this cycle not being substituted.

Preferably, p=2.

Preferably, when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by an –S– heteroatom and/or optionally substituted by one or two selected groups among hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2.

Preferably, p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom.

The amino acid type compounds can also be a salt of a compound of formula (I).

These salts include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example salts of alkali metals, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, calcium salts and zinc salts.

The amino acid type compounds can be in the form of an optical isomer of L, D or DL configuration, preferably of L configuration.

As examples according to the present invention of compounds in the form of an optical isomer of L configuration, mention may be made of L-proline, L-methionine, L-serine, L-arginine and L-lysine. .

Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

Preferably, the amino acid type compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, their salts and their mixtures.

Even better, the amino acid type compound is chosen from glycine, its salts (in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc) and their mixtures.

As glycine salts according to the present invention, mention may be made of sodium glycinate, zinc glycinate, calcium glycinate, magnesium glycinate, manganese glycinate and potassium glycinate, preferably sodium glycinate and potassium glycinate.

Preferably, the amino acid compound is glycine.

The total content of amino acid type compound(s) present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This content can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.9 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the total content of compound(s) of the amino carboxylic acid type in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7 at 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.9 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Better, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better 0.9 to 2 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Very particularly, the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type chosen from glycine, its salts and their mixtures, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better 0.9 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even better, the glycine content in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better 0.9 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydroxy(poly)carboxylic acids

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or their salts.

These (poly) acids are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

Said (poly) acids comprise at least one COOH group (in acidic or salified form); they can include several, in particular at least 2 COOH groups (in acidic or salified form), better still 2 or 3 COOH groups (in acidic or salified form).

They also include at least one OH group, but can include several, in particular 2 to 3 OH groups.

Preferably, they comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms and their hydrocarbon chain is saturated and linear.

Advantageously, the hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids and/or their salts comprise a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups (in acidic or salified form).

The salts of these (poly) acids include salts with organic or mineral bases, for example salts of alkali metals, such as lithium, sodium, potassium salts; alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salts, calcium salts and zinc salts. Alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts are preferred, and in particular sodium salts.

Preferably, the (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acids or their salts are chosen from alpha hydroxy acids and their salts, and in particular from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular from alkali or alkaline earth metals. ; very particularly citric acid and/or tartaric acid as well as their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and/or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate.

The total content of (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention is at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. This content can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, or even from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the total content of (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acids comprising a total of 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, or their salts, present in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, or even from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Very particularly, the total content of (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acids chosen from lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 at 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, or even from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Even better, the content of citric acid and/or its salts in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight, or even 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactants

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.

Amphoteric surfactants are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

In particular, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are non-silicone. They may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as , for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may be made in particular, alone or in a mixture, of alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )sulphobetaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines and alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amidalkyl(C ₆ -C ₈ )sulfobetaines.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, we can also cite the following compounds of respective structures (II) and (III):

R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (II)

in which :

- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; And

- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

- M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

^- _{_ _ _ _ _} -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (III)

in which :

- B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX';

- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z = 1 or 2;

- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';

- Z’ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _a' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular in C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

Compounds of formula (IV) can also be used:

R _a'' -NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e )

in which :

- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';

- R _d and R _e , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

- Z'' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

- n and n’, independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (II) we can cite the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company NOVEAL under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

These compounds can be used alone or in mixtures.

Among the amphoteric surfactants, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures are preferably used. , and the compounds of formula (IV) such as the sodium salt of diethylaminopropyl lauryl amino succinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present in the composition according to the invention at a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 2 to 5% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactant(s) chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C8-C20)amidoalkyl(C3-C8)betaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof, are present in the composition according to the invention at a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Anionic surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

By anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not including a cationic charge.

Anionic surfactants are different from the amino acid type compounds previously described.

The anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. We can obviously use a mixture of these surfactants.

It is understood in this description that:

- the anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate and/or sulfonate functions;

- the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ), and may optionally also comprise one or more sulfate functions, but do not include a carboxylate function; And

- sulfated anionic surfactants include at least one sulfate function but do not include a carboxylate or sulfonate function.

The anionic carboxylic surfactants that can be used therefore contain at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. of C6-C24 alkyl, and their salts.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

R _1' –(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n' –OCH ₂ COOA (1)

in which :

- R _1' represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl (C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R _2' CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R _2' designating a linear alkyl or alkenyl radical or branched at C9-C21; preferably R _1' is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

- n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) varying from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R _1' groups.

The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (amido) ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

- R _1' denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl (C8-C9) phenyl radical;

- A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n’ varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which R _1' denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and does not vary from 2 to 10.

Among the commercial products, we can preferably use the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

AKYPO® NP 70 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

AKYPO® NP 40 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO®OP 40 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO® OP 80 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

AKYPO® OP 190 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 38 (R ₁ =C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 100 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 130 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=13, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

or by the company SANDOZ under the names:

SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=H)

SANDOPAN DTC (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

SANDOPAN LS 24 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

SANDOPAN JA 36 (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=18, A=H),

and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:

AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO® RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

- acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe-noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, and in particular alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

Preferably, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ). They can be chosen from the following compounds: the Alkylsulfonates, the AlkyLethersulfonates, the AlkyLamidesulfonates, the Alkylarylsulfonates, the Alpha-Oléfinesulfonates, the Paraffinesulfonates, the Alkylsulfosuccinates, the Alkyléthersulfosuccinates, the AlkyLamides, Alkylsulfoacetates, n-acyltaurates, acylisethiones; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

- alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular of amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As an example of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture,

- C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,

- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

- C6-C24 acylglutamates, particularly C12-C20;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20 preferably comprising from 1 to 20 oxide units. ethylene; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol; as well as their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can also be free (0%) of sulfated surfactants (sulfate free); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or in mixture,

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,

- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

Even better, the non-sulfated anionic surfactants can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates and C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, in particular C12-C20; as well as their mixtures; in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol

When present, the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total quantity ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 2 to 25% by weight, better still from 3 to 20%. by weight, even better from 4 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cationic polymers.

The term "cationic polymer" means any non-silicone polymer (not comprising a silicon atom) containing cationic groups and/or groups ionizable into cationic groups, and not containing anionic groups and/or groups ionizable into anionic groups.

The cationic polymers likely to be used preferably have a cationic charge density less than or equal to 5 milliequivalents/gram (meq/g), better still less than or equal to 4 meq/g.

The cationic charge density of a polymer corresponds to the number of moles of cationic charges per unit mass of polymer under conditions where it is completely ionized. It can be determined by calculation if we know the structure of the polymer, that is to say the structure of the monomers constituting the polymer and their molar or weight proportion. It can also be determined experimentally by the Kjeldahl method.

The cationic polymers capable of being used preferably have a weight average molar mass (Mw) of between approximately 500 and 5.10 ⁶ , preferably between approximately 10 ³ and 3.10 ⁶ .

The cationic polymers likely to be used are preferably non-associative.

Among the cationic polymers likely to be used, we can cite:

(1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the units of the following formula:

in which:

- R3, identical or different, designate a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical;

- A, identical or different, represent a divalent alkyl group, linear or branched, of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms;

- R4, R5, R6, identical or different, represent an alkyl group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical; preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms;

- R1 and R2, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably methyl or ethyl;

- X designates an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulfate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide.

The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units deriving from comonomers which can be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acid esters, vinyl lactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters.

Among these copolymers of family (1), we can cite:

- copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulfate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES,

- copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, such as those sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY,

- the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, such as that sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES,

- vinylpyrrolidone/dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers, quaternized or not, such as products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as for example "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or products called "COPOLYMER 845 , 958 and 937";

- dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP,

- vinylpyrrolidone/methacrylamidopropyldimethylamine copolymers, such as those marketed under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP;

- quaternized vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers, such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP,

- polymers, preferably crosslinked, of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethylmethacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, the homo- or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene bisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide/methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion comprising 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name “SALCARE® SC 92” by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride comprising approximately 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are marketed under the names “SALCARE® SC 95” and “SALCARE® SC 96” by the company CIBA.

(2) cationic polysaccharides, notably celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums.

Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers, cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums.

Cellulose ether derivatives comprising quaternary ammonium groups are described in particular in FR1492597; they are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammonium hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group.

We can in particular cite the polymers marketed under the name "UCARE POLYMER JR" (JR 400 LT, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by the AMERCHOL Company.

Cationic cellulose copolymers and cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer are described in particular in patent US4131576; we can cite hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl- or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium, or dimethyldiallylammonium. We can particularly cite quaternized hydroxyethyl celluloses, crosslinked or not, the quaternizing agent possibly being diallyldimethylammonium chloride; and particularly hydroxyethyl cellulose hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium

Among the commercial products meeting this definition, we can cite the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the National Starch Company.

As a particularly preferred cationic cellulose, mention may in particular be made of the polymer with the INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-10.

Cationic galactomannan gums are described in particular in patents US3589578 and US4031307; we can cite cationic guar gums, in particular those comprising cationic trialkylammonium groups, in particular trimethylammonium. We can thus cite guar gums modified with a salt (for example a chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium.

Preferably, 2 to 30% by number of the hydroxyl functions of guar gums carry cationic trialkyammonium groups. Even more preferably, 5 to 20% of the number of hydroxyl functions of these guar gums are connected by cationic trialkyammonium groups. Among these trialkylammonium groups, mention may particularly be made of the trimethylammonium and triethylammonium groups. Even more preferably, these groups represent 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the modified guar gum. According to the invention, guar gums modified with 2,3-epoxypropyl trimethylammonium chloride can be used.

We can in particular cite the products with the INCI name “HYDRXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE” and “GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL-TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”. Such products are marketed in particular under the names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company Solvay.

Among the cationic polysaccharides likely to be used, we can also cite cationic derivatives of cassia gum, in particular those containing quaternary ammonium groups; in particular, we can cite the INCI name product “CASSIA HYDROXYPROPYLTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE”.

(3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radicals with linear or branched chains, optionally interrupted by atoms of oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or by aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the products of oxidation and/or quaternization of these polymers.

(4) water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides can be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or even by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, 'an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide or a bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 mole per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or, if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized.

(5) polyaminoamide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with bifunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-diacoylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, propyl. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid/dimethylaminohydroxypropyl/diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz.

(6) the polymers obtained by reaction of a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms; the molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid preferably being between 0.8:1 and 1.4:1; the resulting polyaminoamide being reacted with the epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide preferably between 0.5:1 and 1.8:1. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid copolymer. /epoxypropyl/diethylene-triamine.

(7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising as main constituent of the chain units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1;

- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, a C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or R10 and R11 can designate jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; R10 and R11, independently of each other, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

- Y ^- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of salts (for example chloride) of dimethyldiallylammonium (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-6), for example sold under the name "MERQUAT 100" by the company NALCO, and the copolymers of salts (for example chloride) of diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide (INCI name POLYQUATERNIUM-7), marketed in particular under the name "MERQUAT 550" or "MERQUAT 7SPR".

(8) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising recurring units of formula:

in which :

- R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or C1-C12 hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals,

or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles possibly comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen

or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D group where R17 is an alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group;

- A1 and B1 represent divalent polymethylene groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which may contain, linked to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X ^- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazin ring;

furthermore if A1 designates a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also designate a group (CH2)n-CO-D-OC-(CH2)p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D designating:

a) a glycol residue of formula -O-Z-O-, where Z designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: -(CH2CH2O)x-CH2CH2- and -[CH2CH(CH3)O] y-CH2CH(CH3)- where x and y designate an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y designates a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X ^- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

We can cite more particularly polymers which are made up of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

in which R1, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, designate an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers varying from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from 'a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which R1, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n=3, p=6 and X=Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI (CTFA) nomenclature.

(9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (V):

in which :

- R18, R19, R20 and R21, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, β-hydroxyethyl, β-hydroxypropyl or -CH2CH2(OCH2CH2)pOH radical, where p is equal to 0 or to an integer between 1 and 6, provided that R18, R19, R20 and R21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom,

- r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6,

- q is equal to 0 or an integer between 1 and 34,

- X- designates an anion such as a halide,

- A designates a divalent radical of a dihalide or preferably represents -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-.

We can for example cite the products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® 175" sold by the company Miranol.

(10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products marketed under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F.

(11) Polyamines such as Polyquart® H sold by COGNIS, referenced under the name "POLYETHYLENEGLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary.

(12) polymers comprising in their structure:

(a) one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (A):

(b) optionally one or more reasons corresponding to the following formula (B):

In other words, these polymers can be chosen in particular from homo- or copolymers comprising one or more units derived from vinylamine and optionally one or more units derived from vinylformamide.

Preferably, these cationic polymers are chosen from polymers comprising, in their structure, from 5 to 100 mol% of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 95 mol% of units corresponding to formula (B). , preferably from 10 to 100 mole % of units corresponding to formula (A) and from 0 to 90 mole % of units corresponding to formula (B).

These polymers can be obtained for example by partial hydrolysis of polyvinylformamide. This hydrolysis can take place in an acidic or basic environment.

The weight average molecular mass of said polymer, measured by light diffraction, can vary from 1000 to 3,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 10,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 100,000 to 500,000 g/mole.

Polymers comprising units of formula (A) and possibly units of formula (B) are sold in particular under the name LUPAMIN by the company BASF, such as for example, and without limitation, the products offered under the name LUPAMIN 9095 , LUPAMIN 5095, LUPAMIN 1095, LUPAMIN 9030 (or LUVIQUAT 9030) and LUPAMIN 9010.

We particularly prefer cationic polymers chosen from those of families (1), (2) and (7) cited above.

Preferably, the cationic polymers capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from, alone or in mixture, cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses such as POLYQUATERNIUM-10; cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; as well as their mixtures.

When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polymer(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0. 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic polysaccharide(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0. 1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additional compounds

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, in particular at a concentration preferably ranging from 50 to 95% by weight, for example from 55 to 90% by weight, in particular from 60 to 85% by weight, better still from 65 at 85% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pH of the composition can be between 2.5 and 8, preferably between 3 and 7, or even between 4 and 6.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more organic solvents, liquid at 25°C, 1 atm., preferably hydrophilic (soluble or miscible with water) which may be chosen from aliphatic C1-C6 monoalcohols or aromatics, C2-C8 polyols, and C3-C7 polyol ethers. Advantageously, the organic solvent is chosen from C2-C4 mono-, di or tri-diols. It can advantageously be chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, glycerol, propane 1,2-diol (propylene glycol) and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one or more usual cosmetic ingredients, in particular chosen from nonionic surfactants; thickeners, gelling agents; anionic, amphoteric or nonionic polymers; solar filters; anti-dandruff agents; antioxidant agents; chelating agents; reducing agents; oxidation bases, couplers, oxidizing agents, direct dyes; hair straightening agents; pearlescent and opacifying agents; micas, mother-of-pearl, glitter; plasticizing or coalescing agents; pigments; the charges; the perfumes; alkalizing or acidifying agents; silanes. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the ingredients used in the composition, as well as their quantities, so that they do not harm the properties of the compositions of the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, may comprise:

- one or more compounds of the amino acid type corresponding to formula (I) as defined above, in which p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated , optionally interrupted by an –S– heteroatom and/or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2; better R represents a hydrogen atom;

preferably present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even from 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better 0.9 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

- one or more hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 or 3 COOH groups, and/or their salts, preferably present in a total content of at least 0 .5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better from 2 to 6% by weight, or even from 3 to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- one or more amphoteric surfactants, in particular chosen from alkyl (C8-C20) betaines, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines and their mixtures,

preferably present at a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and

- optionally one or more anionic surfactants, in particular chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; (C6-C24)acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18)acylisethionates; C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, especially C12-C20; as well as their mixtures; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol; as well as their mixtures;

preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 2 to 25% by weight, better still from 3 to 20% by weight, even better from 4 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention finds in particular a particularly interesting application in the hair field, in particular for cleaning and/or conditioning hair. The hair compositions are preferably shampoos or conditioners; advantageously, the composition according to the invention is in the form of a shampoo, in particular a conditioner, capable of being rinsed.

The cosmetic composition may or may not be rinsed after having been applied to keratin materials, in particular to the hair. It is thus possible to optionally carry out rinsing, for example with water, after a possible exposure time. Preferably it is rinsed, after a possible exposure time.

The invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment, in particular hair treatment, in particular for washing and/or conditioning, keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to invention, preferably followed by rinsing, after a possible exposure time.

Preferably, it is a hair treatment process, in particular washing and/or conditioning, sensitized, weakened and/or damaged hair, or hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and/or calcium. .

In particular, it may be a cosmetic treatment process for strengthening hair, particularly sensitized, weakened and/or damaged hair.

It can also be a process to limit the loss of shine of hair, particularly sensitized, weakened and/or damaged hair.

Said process may also comprise at least two successive stages of application, to the hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and/or damaged hair, of a composition as defined above; we then speak of a multi-application process.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

In the examples which follow, all quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active ingredient (g% MA) relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

The following compositions according to the invention were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the tables below (g% MA):

Composition HAS B CITRIC ACID 4 4 GLYCINE 1 1 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 10 11 COCAMIDOPROPYL BETAINE 3 3 COCO-BETAINE 0.2 - POLYQUATERNIUM-10 0.5 0.5 GLYCERIN 3 2 CARBOMER 0.2 - GLYCOL DISTEARATE 1 - PPG-5-CETETH-20 0.6 0.6 SODIUM CHLORIDE 0.6 0.5 Conservatives Qs Qs Water Qsp 100% Qsp 100%

Composition A is in the form of a creamy opalescent shampoo and composition B is in the form of a translucent shampoo; they can advantageously be used for cleaning hair. The compositions make it possible to generate an abundant and creamy foam, easy to distribute throughout the hair. After application, rinsing and drying, the hair is strengthened, more resistant and has good shine.

The compositions make it possible to generate an abundant and creamy foam, easy to distribute throughout the hair. The foam start-up (obtaining foam) is particularly rapid. After mixing, the compositions are easy to rinse.

Claims (15)

Cosmetic composition, preferably hair composition, comprising:
- one or more compounds of the amino acid type, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,
- one or more hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or their salts, present in a total content of at least 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and
- one or more amphoteric surfactants. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising one or more compounds of the amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and/or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc:


in which p is an integer equal to 1 or 2, it being understood that:
- when p = 1, R forms with the nitrogen atom a saturated heterocycle comprising from 5 to 8 members, preferably 5 members, this cycle possibly being substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl;
- when p = 2, R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₁₂ ) alkyl group, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms or groups chosen from –S–, –NH– or –C(NH)– and/or optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl (OH), amino (NH2), -SH, -COOH, -CONH2 or –NH –C(NH)–NH ₂ . Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more compounds of the amino acid type chosen from the compounds corresponding to formula (I) and/or their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc:


in which p = 2 and R represents a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4)alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated, optionally interrupted by an –S– heteroatom and/or optionally substituted by one or two groups chosen from hydroxyl , amino or –NH–C(NH)–NH2; better p=2 and R represents a hydrogen atom. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amino acid type compound(s) are chosen from glycine, proline, methionine, serine, arginine, lysine, their salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals , or zinc, and their mixtures; preferentially chosen from glycine, its salts in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals, or of zinc, and their mixtures. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of compound(s) of amino acid type ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.6 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.7 to 5% by weight, or even 0.8 to 3% by weight, even better 0.9 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more (poly) hydroxylated carboxylic acids, comprising 4 to 6 carbon atoms, 1 to 3 OH groups and 2 to 3 COOH groups; and/or their salts, in particular of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals or zinc; preferably chosen from
lactic, glycolic, tartaric or citric acids, and their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals; very particularly citric acid and/or tartaric acid as well as their salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate and/or sodium tartrate; even better citric acid or its salts, in particular of alkali or alkaline earth metals such as sodium citrate. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of hydroxylated (poly) carboxylic acids comprising a total of 2 to 8 carbon atoms, and/or their salts, ranges from 0.5 to 10% by weight, in particular from 1 to 8% by weight, better 2 to 6% by weight, or even 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from, alone or in mixture:
(i) alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )sulphobetaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ - C ₂₀ )-amidalkyl(C ₆ -C ₈ )sulfobetaines.
(ii) the compounds of the following respective structures (II) and (III):
R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^- (II)
in which :
- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; And
- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;
- M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and
^- _{_ _ _ _ _} -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;
R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B') (III)
in which :
- B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX';
- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z = 1 or 2;
- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;
- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';
- Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular in C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.
(iii) the compounds of formula (IV):
R _a'' -NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e )
in which :
- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';
- R _d and R _e , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;
- Z'' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;
- R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;
- n and n', independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines , such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amphoteric surfactant(s) are present at a total content ranging from 1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1.5 to 10% by weight, even better from 2 to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture,
- C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;
- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,
- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;
- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,
- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20;
- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;
- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;
- C6-C24 acylglutamates, particularly C12-C20;
- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;
in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol;
preferably present in a total quantity ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 2 to 25% by weight, better still from 3 to 20% by weight, even better from 4 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably chosen from cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses, cationic galactomannan gums, in particular cationic guar gums; as well as their mixtures; in particular in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Process for cosmetic treatment, in particular hair treatment, in particular for washing and/or conditioning, keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the application to said fibers of a cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, preferably followed by rinsing, after a possible exposure time. Method according to claim 13, for hair treatment, in particular washing and/or conditioning, sensitized, weakened and/or damaged hair, or hair loaded with metal ions, in particular copper and/or calcium. Method according to one of claims 13 to 14, for strengthening hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and/or damaged hair and/or for limiting the loss of shine of hair, in particular sensitized, weakened and/or damaged.