FR3134984A1 - Makeup kit comprising a makeup composition and an anhydrous fixing composition with an amino silicone - Google Patents

Abstract

Makeup kit comprising a makeup composition and an anhydrous fixing composition with an amino silicone The present invention relates to a makeup kit for keratin materials, in particular, skin, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows comprising :A) a first composition (A) of “base-coat” makeup, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:i) at least one polyphenol /or mono- or poly-glycerol capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X; iii) at least one mono-alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms; and iv) at least one uncoated iron oxide pigment; andB) a second anhydrous “top-coat” fixing composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:i) an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; and ii) at least one amino silicone.

Description

Makeup kit comprising a makeup composition and an anhydrous fixing composition with an amino silicone

The present invention aims to propose for the field of care and/or makeup keratin materials, in particular in particular skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, the contour of the eye, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, a new makeup kit with two compositions that is particularly interesting with regard to its technical performance and the aesthetic result that it provides to the user when applied to them and in particular to the eyebrows.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, eye contour, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising at at least a first step of applying a first layer with a makeup composition (A) which will be detailed below on said keratin materials, and at least a second step of applying to the layer formed by the composition (A) at least a second layer of an anhydrous composition (B) based on an amino silicone which will be detailed below.

Compositions dedicated to skin care and/or makeup, such as foundations, are commonly used to provide an aesthetic color to the skin but also to beautify irregular skin by hiding spots and dyschromia, reducing the visibility of relief imperfections such as pores and wrinkles, and to hide pimples and traces of acne, scars. In this regard, coverage and matteness or “soft focus” effect are the main properties sought. Compositions dedicated to the makeup of keratin fibers such as eyelashes and mascaras aim to densify the thickness and visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the look. These mascaras are described as aqueous or even cream mascaras, when they are formulated in an aqueous base and anhydrous mascaras when they are formulated as a dispersion in an organic solvent medium. A wide variety of cosmetic effects can be provided by the application of a mascara to the keratin fibers and in particular the eyelashes, such as for example a volumizing, lengthening, thickening and more particularly charging makeup effect.

Double gesture makeup routines are well known to those skilled in the art. They consist of adding color with a first makeup composition also called base coat and then applying to this first layer a second transparent fixing composition also called top coat and intended to protect this color. However, superimposing the two layers is delicate because the application of the top coat must not remove the base coat. In addition, this superposition generates a thick deposit which then becomes uncomfortable because it is too present on the skin.

There therefore remains the need to find a makeup kit for two-component keratin materials as well as its double-action application process which does not present the aforementioned drawbacks, namely which leads to a fine, comfortable deposit with good hold on the surface. of made-up keratin material whose color does not transfer.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it is possible to achieve these objectives by using a makeup kit for keratin materials, in particular, the skin, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows comprising:
A) a first composition (A) of “base-coat” makeup, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable environment:
i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and
ii) at least one polyoxyethylenated and/or mono- or poly-glycerolated compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X; And
iii) at least one mono-alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms; And
iv) at least one uncoated iron oxide type pigment; And
B) a second anhydrous “top-coat” fixing composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
i) an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; And
ii) at least one amino silicone.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

Objects of the invention

Thus, a first object of the present invention is a makeup kit for keratin materials, in particular, skin, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows comprising:
1) a first composition (A) of “base-coat” makeup, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable environment:
i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and
ii) at least one polyoxyethylenated and/or mono- or poly-glycerolated compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X; And
iii) at least one mono-alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms; And
iv) at least one uncoated iron oxide type pigment; And
2) a second anhydrous “top-coat” fixing composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
i) an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; And
ii) at least one amino silicone.

A second object of the present invention relates to a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, eye contour, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows. , including at least:
- the application of a first layer with a composition (A) as defined above on said keratin materials, and
- the application of a second layer of a composition (B) as defined above.

Definitions

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin material” means in particular skin such as the face, body, hands, cheeks, eyelids, eye contour, keratin fibers such as eyelashes, eyebrows, hairs like those of the beard. This term “keratin materials”, within the meaning of the present invention, also extends to synthetic false eyelashes and false eyebrows.

By "physiologically acceptable", we mean compatible with the skin and/or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and touch and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to distract the consumer from 'use this composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrogen bond” means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bonds are made between the hydroxyl functions (OH) of the reactive phenol groups of polyphenol hydroxyls and/or ethers reagents of compound Y able to form hydrogen bonds e with those of said phenol groups of polyphenol X.

By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.

By “atmospheric pressure”, we mean 760 mm of Hg or 101,325 Pascals.

Makeup composition (A) base coat

The first composition (A) of “base-coat” makeup comprises, in particular in a physiologically acceptable environment:
i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and
ii) at least one polyoxyethylenated and/or mono- or poly-glycerolated compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X; And
iii) at least one mono-alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms; And
iv) at least one pigment of the uncoated iron oxide type.

According to a particular mode, the first composition (A) of “base-coat” makeup may comprise water.

The quantity of water is then preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 20% water, and more particularly less than or equal to 10% water relative to the total weight. of composition (A).

The composition may contain demineralized water, or even a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or thermal water.

The pH of composition (A) is, in this case, preferably less than 6, more preferably between 2 and 6 and more particularly between 2 and 5.

Composition (A) may contain, in addition to solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C, in addition to the aforementioned mono-alcohols, such as polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C ₃ -C ₄ ketones, C ₂ -C aldehydes ₄ .

According to a particular mode, the first makeup composition (A) is free of water.

Oily Phase

Composition (A) of the invention may additionally comprise an oily phase;

The term "oil phase" means a liquid phase at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure comprising oils, waxes, pasty bodies as well as possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

The oil or oils may be chosen from mineral, vegetable, synthetic oils, in particular chosen from hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils, volatile or non-volatile, and their mixtures.

By “oil”, we mean a liquid fatty substance at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 101,325 Pa). Oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

The term “fluorinated oil” means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil remaining on the skin or keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. For example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

Volatile hydrocarbon oils

As an example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be used in the invention, the following can be cited:
- hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane ), isododecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof . Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457 and like that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF. We can also cite the dodecane/tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85/15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® as well as the mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-C12 - INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE tel than the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be used in the invention, the following can be cited:
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not such as Parleam, squalane;
- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether;
- triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C ₄ to C ₃₆ , and in particular from C ₁₈ to C ₃₆ , these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame (820.6 g/mol), corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passion flower, muscat rose; shea oil; or even caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel
- linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, such as octanoate cetostearyl, isopropyl alcohol esters such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, isononanoic acid esters such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate , oleyl erucate; lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate, diisopropyl sebacate, isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. In particular, we can cite in this respect the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butane diol Copolymer), or even copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA ®,
- di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name
Cetiol CC®, by Cognis;
- esters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate,
- aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate,
- esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono-or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and dimer dicarboxylic acid, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into this application by reference;
- fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
- di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains possibly being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate marketed under the name
Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; And
- and their mixtures.

Non-volatile silicone oils

Among the non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of silicone oils such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, diphenyl dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof.

Volatile, linear or cyclic silicone oils

As linear volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and their mixtures.

As cyclic volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably, in particular less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, or even less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) of the invention may be free of non-volatile oil.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of volatile oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably, in particular less than or equal to 5.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) of the invention may be free of volatile oil.

Polyphenol

The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention contain in their structure at least two different phenol groups.

By “polyphenol” is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 groups. hydroxyls.

By “different phenol groups” we mean chemically different phenol groups.

The polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in an isolated state or contained in a mixture, particularly contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two differently substituted phenolic groups on the aromatic ring.

The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifoline), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechistic tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and their mixtures.

Among the natural polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite lignins.

As examples of non-flavonoids, we can cite curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidine; and their mixtures.

As polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from catechic tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescaline, castaline, casuarictin, castanopsins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburines, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, diffusisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurine, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodehydrodigalloyl , dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin, rhoipteleanins..

According to a particular mode of the invention, the polyphenol commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 M-C® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the polyphenol procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

We will use more particularly as polyphenol X, tannic acid like the commercial product sold under the name Brewtan F® by the company Anijomoto Omnichem Nv.

According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol(s) % by weight, and more particularly greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

According to a particular embodiment, the polyphenol(s) 0 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

Compound Y polyoxyethylenated and/or mono- or poly-glycerol

The polyoxyethylenated and/or mono- or poly-glycerolated compounds Y according to the invention comprise in their chemical structure at least two hydroxyl groups and/or ethers, capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with the phenol groups of polyphenol different phenols.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polyoxyethylenated compound" means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure at least one chain comprising oxyethylene units -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n . The Y compounds can also be polyoxypropylenated, namely comprising oxypropylene units -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _p .

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "mono- or polyglycerol compound" means any molecule comprising in its chemical structure a glycerol group or a chain comprising glycerol units -(O-CH₂-CHOH-CH₂ -OH)

In a preferred embodiment, the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 200 g/mol, or even greater than 350 g/mol.

According to a particular mode, the compound(s) Y, in the medium of composition (A) do not contain an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

As examples of compounds Y capable of reacting with polyphenols
(1) glycerolated alkyl ethers such as Glyceryl Lauryl Ether; And
(2) polyoxyethylene waxes, in particular chosen from polyoxyethylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax (120 EO) (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG -75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin;
(3) Non-ionic polyglycerol alkyl ether surfactants, in particular chosen from Polyglyceryl-2-Oleyl Ether, Polyglyceryl-4-Oleyl Ether;
(4) Esters of glycerol or polyglycerol and fatty acid, optionally polyhydroxylated, in particular chosen from Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl- 2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate.

(5) Polyoxyethylene or polyglycerol waxes, in particular chosen from polyoxyethylene ester waxes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax (120 EO) (INCI name: Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters), PEG-8 Beeswax, PEG-60 Lanolin, PEG-75 Lanolin, PPG-12-PEG-50 Lanolin, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax.
(6) polyethylene glycols of the H(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n -OH type
in particular chosen from PEG-6, PEG-8, PEG-14M, PEG-20, PEG-45M, PEG-90, PEG-90M, PEG-150, PEG-180, PEG-220;
(6) Poloxamers of the HO-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _n -(CHCH ₃ -CH ₂ -O)O-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _p -H type, in particular chosen from Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338, Poloxamer 124, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 184, Poloxamer 338;
(7) polypropylene glycols alkyl ethers of type:
C _n H _2n+1 -(OC(CH ₃ )H-CH ₂ ) _o -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _p -OH
in particular chosen from PPG-26-Buteth-26, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, PPG-6-Decyltetradeceth-30.
(8) Compounds of type:
H(OC(C _n H _2n+1 )-CH ₂ )o-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _p -(CH ₂ -C(C _q H _2q+1 )HO) _r H
in particular PEG-45/Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer.
(9) compounds of the type: C _n H _2n+1 -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ )oO-CH ₂ -C(C _p H _2p+1 )HOH
in particular Ceteareth-60 Myristyl Glycol;
(10) polyoxyethylenated glycerins, in particular oxyethylenated glycerin 26 EO (Glycereth-26);
(11) alkylpolyethylene glycols of type C _n H _2n+1 -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _o -OH, in particular chosen from Ceteth-2, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-25 , Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-10, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, Steareth-2, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth- 100, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth-20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, Coceth-7, Trideceth-12;
(12) Polyoxyethylenated alkylphosphates, in particular chosen from Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Oleth-10 Phosphate, PPG-5-Ceteth-10 Phosphate;.
(13) polyoxyethylenated alkylamines of the type
CH ₃ -(CH ₂ ) _n -(CH=CH) _o -(CH) _p -N((CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O)H) _q ((CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _r H), in particular: PEG-2-Oleamine;
(14) polyethylene glycol and fatty acid esters of the type
C _n H _2n+1 -(CH=CH ₂ )oC _p H _2p -CO-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n -OH or
C _n H _2n+1 -(CH=CH) _o -C _p H _2p -CO-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _q -O-CO-C _r H _2r+1 or
C _n H _2n+1 -(CH=CH) _o -CO-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _q -OC _n H _2n+1 or
C _n H _2n+1 -O-CH(alkyl)-(CH ₂ ) _p -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _q -O-CO-C _r H _2r+1
in particular chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene Glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate ;
(15) Polyoxyethylenated carboxylic acids of the type
C _n H _2n+1 -(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ )o-COOH, in particular chosen from PEG-7 Capric Acid, PEG-6 Caprylic Acid, PEG-7 Caprylic Acid, Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid , Laureth-11 Carboxylic Acid, Laureth-12 Carboxylic Acid;
(16) polyoxyethylenated alkylglycerides, in particular chosen from PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides;
(17) polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses, in particular chosen from Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20;
(18) polyoxyethylenated sugar esters such as PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate.
(19) polyoxyethylenated and polyoxypropylenated alkyl glycol ethers such as PPG-1-PEG-9 Lauryl Glycol Ether.
(20) polyoxyethylenated pentaerythritol esters and ethers, in particular PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate.
(21) polysorbates, in particular chosen from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85.
(22) polyoxyethylenated polyamines, in particular PEG-15 Cocopolyamine.
(23) polyoxyethylenated dihydrocholesteryl esters. structure:
[Chem 1]


in particular Dihydrocholeth-30.
(24) optionally hydrogenated esters of glycerol and polyoxyethylenated fatty acids chosen from PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmitate;
(25) polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils such as PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil,
(26) polyethylene glycol propylene glycol fatty acid ester ethers such as PEG-55 Propylene Glycol Oleate
(27) Polyoxyethylenated butters, in particular polyoxyethylene shea butter such as PEG-50 Shea Butter;
(28) Polyoxyalkylenated silicones, in particular chosen from PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Trideceth-9 PG-Amodimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone;
(29) Polyoxyalkylenated silanes, in particular chosen from Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl ether Dimethyl Silane;
(30) polyoxyethylenated acrylate copolymers, in particular the copolymer with the INCI name: Acrylate/Palmeth-25 Acrylate Copolymer;
(31) polyoxyalkylenated alkanediols such as PEG-8 Caprylyl Glycol;
(33) polyoxyethylenated rapeseed amides and sterols (Rapeseed), in particular chosen from PEG-4 Rapeseed Amide, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol.
(33) polyoxyethylenated lanolins such as Laneth-15;
(34) sorbitol and polyoxyethylene fatty acid esters such as PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate;
(35) Polyoxyethylenated glycerol esters such as Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate;
(36) their mixtures.

According to a preferred mode, the compound(s) Y will be chosen from non-ionic compounds.

According to a preferred mode, the compound(s) Y will be chosen from
i) polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, in particular Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate;
ii) glycerol and fatty acid esters optionally hydrogenated polyoxyethylenated, in particular PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
iii) polyethylene glycols, in particular PEG-180;
iv) polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil;
v) polysorbates, in particular Polysorbate 80;
vi) polyoxyalkylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax, INCI name Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters;
vii) their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, compound Y is a polysorbate, in particular Polysorbate 80.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compound(s) Y of the invention is(are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0 % by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight, more particularly in an amount ranging from 3 to 30% by weight, and even better ranging from 4 to 20%. relative to the total weight of the composition ( HAS).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl groups (OH) of the polyphenol(s) 1/3 to 20, more preferably 1/2 to 15, and more particularly 3/4 to 3.

Mono-alcohol

The composition according to the invention comprises at least at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly ethanol.

The mono-alcohol(s) comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms is (are) then preferably present at contents ranging from 40 to 95% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 40 to 80% by weight. , and more particularly from 45 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

Pigment

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment of the iron oxide type (INCI Name Iron Oxide).

By “pigment” is meant particles insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

By “uncoated pigment” is meant any pigment not treated with a surfactant covering it partially or completely by being absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

According to a preferred embodiment, the pigment(s) are present in an amount of up to 35.0% by weight, more preferably up to 25.0% by weight and more particularly ranging from 4 to 25% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition (A).

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from yellow iron oxides (CI 77492) , red iron oxides, black iron oxides (CI 77499) and their mixtures

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can range up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D [50] greater than 100 nm and which can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as MasterSizer 3000® from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range ranging from 0.01 µm. at 1000 µm. The data is processed based on classical Mie diffusion theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D [50] represents the maximum size that 50% of particles present by volume.

In the context of the present invention, the pigments are more particularly black iron oxides (CI 77499).

Composition (B) anhydrous top-coat fixing

The second anhydrous “top-coat” fixing composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
i) an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; And
ii) at least one amino silicone.

For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "anhydrous composition" designates any composition containing less than 5% by weight of water, preferably less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water. relative to its total weight, and in particular a composition free of water.

Volatile hydrocarbon oil

As an example of a volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be used in composition (B) of the invention, the following can be cited:
- hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane ), isododecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names Isopars® or Permetyls®, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof . Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457 and like that sold under the trade name CETIOL ULTIMATE® by the company BASF. We can also cite the dodecane/tetradecane mixture in the weight ratio 85/15 marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT 1214® as well as the mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C9-C12 - INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE tel than the product marketed by the company BIOSYNTHIS under the reference VEGELIGHT SILK®.

We will particularly use isododecane.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the total quantity of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, and more preferably varies from 30 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 35 at 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

The oily phase may also include non-volatile oils as mentioned above. Preferably, the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, composition (B) is free of non-volatile oil.

Amino silicone

The anhydrous fixing composition (B) comprises at least one amino silicone.

The term “silicone” means any molecule comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

“Amino silicone” means any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The weight average molecular masses of these aminated silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at room temperature (25°C) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are µ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 µl of a 0.5% solution by weight of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UV metry.

Suitable amino silicones for use in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, non-volatile, cyclic, linear and branched amino silicones having a viscosity ranging from 5*10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C, for example from 1*10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

The amino silicone(s) conforming to the invention can be chosen from the following families:
1) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (I):
[Chem 2]
(I)
in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol.
2) amino silicones corresponding to formula (II):
[Chem 3]
R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' -R'_a' (II)
in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a and a' identical or different, designate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero
- b designates 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R', identical or different, designates a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group optionally quaternized chosen from the groups:
• -NR''-QN(R'') ₂ ,
• -N(R'') ₂ ,
• -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- ,
• -N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- ,
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and
• -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,
in which R'', identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q designates a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (II) are chosen from the silicones called “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” corresponding to formula (III):

[Chem 3]

(III)
in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (III) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (IV):
[Chem 4]
(IV)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (III) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (V):
[Chem 5]
(V)
in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (IV) or (V).

A product containing structural amino silicones (IV) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.

A product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural (V) amino silicones is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (III) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (VI):
[Chem 6]
(VI)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

A silicone meeting this formula is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION® from DOW CORNING.

According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (III) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (VII):

[Chem 7]

(VII)
in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g/mol.

A silicone meeting this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid® from DOW CORNING.

3) amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):
[Chem 8]
(VIII)
in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50;

4) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX):
[Chem 9]

(IX)
in which :
- R ₇ , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- R ₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical , a radical -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ ;
- X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

Such amino silicones are described in particular in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

5) amino silicones of formula (X):
[Chem 10]
(X)
in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, designate a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer varying from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;

6) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.
Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-]
or
[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]
in which :
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R designate a radical CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ -; And
- R', identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' designate -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by mole of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by mole.
The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g/mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g/mol.

We can in particular cite the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843® or Silsoft A+® by Momentive.

7) amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):
[Chem 11]
(XII)
in which :
- R, R' and R''', identical or different, designate a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,
- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And
- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol;

[Chem 12]
(XII)

in which :
- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably it goes from 1 to 100;
- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, designate an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And
- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.
We can cite in particular the following divalent groups:
-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups may be mentioned; and preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

The amino silicone(s) are preferably of formula (XII) with:
- x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
- going from 1 to 100;
- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And
- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the groups dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone in which R ₁ and R ₂ denote the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. We can cite in particular the amino silicone sold under the names SILSOFT AX® and SILSOFT AX-E PMF® by Momentive.

8) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups on a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIII), (XIV) or (XV):
[Chem 13]
(XIII)
Or
[Chem 14]
(XIV)

Or

[Chem 15]
(XIV)

In formula (XIII), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 1000 and 55000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIII), we can cite the products sold under the names AMS-132®, AMS-152®, AMS-162®, AMS-163®, AMS-191® and AMS- 1203® by the Gelest company and KF-8015® by the Shin Etsu company.

In formula (XIV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 3000.

As an example of amino silicones of formula (XIV), we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11® and MCR-A12® by the company Gelest.

In formula (XV), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 50,000 g/mol.

As an example of amino silicones of formula (XV), we can cite aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078® Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

9) and their mixtures.

Particularly preferably, the amino silicone according to the invention is an alkyl amodimethicone of formula (XII).

(XII)
in which

- x varies from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
- y varies from 1 to 100;
- A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And
- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently linear alkyl groups chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and more preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

More particularly, the aminated silicone is BIS-CETEARYL AMODIMETHICONE such as the commercial products sold under the names SILSOFT AX® and SILSOFT AX-E PMF® by Momentive.

Advantageously, the aminated silicone(s) are present in an amount greater than or equal to 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 3 to 50% by weight and even more particularly ranging from 3 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

Coloring Matter

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition (A) comprises at least one coloring material, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

The coloring material can be chosen from mineral or organic pigments, coated or uncoated, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

The coloring material(s) are preferably present in composition (B) at contents less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B).

Pigments

The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

By “mineral pigment” we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta ₂ O ₅ , Ti ₃ O ₅ , Ti ₂ O ₃ , TiO, ZrO ₂ mixed with TiO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , Nb ₂ O ₅ , CeO ₂ , ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D [50] greater than 100 nm and which can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as MasterSizer 3000® from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range ranging from 0.01 µm. at 1000 µm. The data is processed based on classical Mie diffusion theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D [50] represents the maximum size that 50% of particles present by volume.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide.

As mineral pigments usable in the invention, we can also cite mother-of-pearl.

By “pearl”, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

We can also cite, as an example of mother-of-pearl, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Mother-of-pearl can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example , monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of the effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, etc. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

According to a particular mode, the composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47 005, pigments green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 5800 0, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic and phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. We can also cite the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

By “water-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring.

By “fat-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

Among the natural water-soluble dyes we can cite anthocyanins.

As fat-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fat-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet. 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown.

As an illustration of natural fat-soluble dyes, we can particularly cite carotenes such as β-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinole yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

The water-soluble or fat-soluble dye(s) are preferably present at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better 0.02 at 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B).

Cosmetic compositions

Compositions (A) and (B) can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.

Cosmetic additives

Compositions (A) and (B) of the makeup kit of the invention may contain additives usual in cosmetics. We can cite in particular antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, cosmetic active ingredients such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, sun filters and their mixtures.

The compositions (A) and (B) of the makeup kit of the invention according to the invention can be makeup products for keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the face, the hands, the eye contour, the cheeks. , eyelids, like foundations, day shadows.

The compositions (A) and (B) of the makeup kit of the invention according to the invention can be makeup products for keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows such as mascaras and eye liners.

Such compositions are prepared in particular according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.

Packaging and applicators

The compositions (A) and (B) according to the invention can each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by a closure element.

The container can be in any suitable form. It can be in particular in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

The closure element can be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a valve.

The container can be associated with an applicator, in particular in the form of a brush comprising an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US patent 4,887,622. It can also be in the form of a comb comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular by molding. Such combs are described for example in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator can be in the form of a brush, as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380. The applicator can be in the form of a block of foam or elastomer. The applicator can be free (sponge) or attached to a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in US patent 5,492,426. The applicator can be integral with the container, as described for example in patent FR 2 761 959.

The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is done otherwise than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By “latching” we mean in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closing element, then by returning to the non-elastically constrained position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. As examples of thermoplastic materials, we can cite polypropylene or polyethylene.

The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

The container may include means intended to cause or facilitate distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to escape in response to an excess pressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the container walls. .

The container can be equipped with a wiper placed near the opening of the container. Such a wiper allows you to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it can be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression “comprising one” must be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”, unless the contrary is specified.

The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” must be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples and figures presented below. Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

Examples 1: Makeup kit with composition (A1) base coat and (B1) top coat

The following base coat composition (A1) was prepared

.[Tables 1]
Phases Ingredients A1
(invention) has Tannic acid
(Brewtan F® - Anijomoto Omnichem Nv) 5 Ethanol 75 Polysorbate-80
(TWEEN-80-LQ® from CRODA)a 5 b Black iron oxide
(CI 77499)
(SUNPURO C33-7001® from SUN) 15

Preparation protocol

Phase (a) was prepared at room temperature (25°C) by dissolving the tannic acid as well as the Polysorbate-80 in ethanol. Once the mixture is homogeneous, phase (b) based on the pigment is added to this preparation with stirring to obtain a black and homogeneous composition. The following top coat composition (B1) was prepared

.[Tables 2] Phases Ingredients B1)
(invention) (has) BIS-CETEARYL AMODIMETHICONE
(SILSOFT AX® - Momentive)
30 b Isododecane 70

Preparation protocol

BIS-CETEARYL AMODIMETHICONE was dispersed at room temperature (25°C) in isododecane until a homogeneous mixture was obtained. Compositions (A1) and (B1) were successively applied to the skin. The superposition of the base coat (A1) and the top coat (B1) was done easily and led to the deposition of a thin, comfortable and very good film that did not transfer the color.

Claims (34)

Makeup kit for keratin materials, in particular, skin, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising:
1) a first composition (A) of “base-coat” makeup, comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable environment:
i) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups, and
ii) at least one polyoxyethylenated and/or mono- or polyglycerol compound Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol X; And
iii) at least one mono-alcohol having 2 to 8 carbon atoms; And
iv) at least one uncoated iron oxide type pigment; And
2) a second anhydrous “top-coat” fixing composition (B) comprising, in particular in a physiologically acceptable medium:
i) an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil; And
ii) at least one amino silicone. Makeup kit according to claim 1, where the composition (A) additionally comprises water. Makeup kit according to claim 2, where the quantity of water is preferably less than or equal to 30% by weight, and more preferably varies from 5 to 30% by weight, and more particularly from 8 to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Makeup kit according to claim 2 or 3, where the pH of composition (A) is less than 6, more preferably between 2 and 6 and more particularly between 2 and 5. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where composition (A) additionally comprises an oily phase. Makeup kit according to claim 5, where the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) in composition (A) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably, in particular less than or equal to 5, 0% by weight, or even less than 2.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Makeup kit according to claim 5, wherein composition (A) is free of non-volatile oil. Makeup kit according to claim 5, where the total quantity of volatile oil(s) in composition (A) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably, in particular less than or equal to 5, 0% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the polyphenol X is chosen from catechic tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 8, where the polyphenol is epigallocatechin, in particular a green tea extract comprising at least 45% by weight of epigallocatechin relative to the weight of said extract. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 8, where the polyphenol to the total weight of said extract. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 8, where the polyphenol X is tannic acid. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the polyphenol(s) X are present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1.0% by weight, and more particularly greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the polyphenol(s) 2.0 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 200 g/mol, or even greater than 350 g/mol. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where compound Y in the medium of composition (A), does not contain an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular is non-ionic. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where compound Y is chosen from
i) polyglycerol and fatty acid esters, in particular Polyglyceryl-10 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate;
ii) glycerol and fatty acid esters optionally hydrogenated polyoxyethylenated, in particular PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate
iii) polyethylene glycols, in particular PEG-180;
iv) polyoxyethylenated hydrogenated castor oils, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil;
v) polysorbates, in particular Polysorbate 80;
vi) polyoxyalkylenated ester waxes such as polyoxyethylene jojoba wax, INCI name Jojoba Wax PEG-120 Esters;
vii) their mixtures. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where compound Y is a polysorbate, in particular Polysorbate 80. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the compound(s) Y is(are) present in an amount greater than or equal to 0.8% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 1 .0% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 2.0% by weight, more particularly in an amount ranging from 3 to 30% by weight, and even better ranging from 4 to 20%. relative to the total weight of the composition (A). Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the molar ratio of the reactive hydroxyl (OH) groups of the polyphenol hydroxyls, preferably varies from 1/3 to 20, more preferably from 1/2 to 15, and more particularly from 3/4 to 3. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the mono-alcohol containing 2 to 8 carbon atoms is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly is ethanol. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the mono-alcohol(s) comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms is(are) present at contents ranging from 40 to 95% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 40 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 45 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). A makeup kit according to any preceding claim, wherein the uncoated iron oxide(s) is(are) present in an amount of up to 35.0% by weight, plus preferably up to 25.0% by weight and more particularly ranging from 4 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (A). Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the pigment(s) present in composition (A) are black iron oxides. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the volatile hydrocarbon oil present in composition (B) is isododecane. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the total quantity of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) in composition (B) is greater than or equal to 20% by weight, and more preferably varies from 30 to 70% by weight, and more particularly 35 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of composition (B). Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the total quantity of non-volatile oil(s) in composition (B) is less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight per relative to the total weight of the composition (B) Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein composition (B) is free of non-volatile oil. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the amino silicone is an alkyl amodimethicone of formula (XII) following:
(XII)
in which
- x varies from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;
- y varies from 1 to 100;
- A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and
-CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And
- R1 and R2 are independently linear alkyl groups chosen from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and more preferably chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims is BIS-CETEARYL AMODIMETHICONE. Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the aminated silicone(s) is (are) present as active material in a quantity greater than or equal to 2%, more preferably ranging from 3 to 50% by weight and even more particularly ranging from 3 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (B). Makeup kit according to any one of the preceding claims, where the composition (A) additionally comprises at least one coloring material, in particular chosen from uncoated mineral or organic pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and their mixtures. Makeup kit according to claim 31, wherein the coloring material(s) are present in composition (B) at contents less than or equal to 5.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (B). Cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular skin such as the face, hands, eyelids, cheeks, eye contour, keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, comprising at least:
- the application of a first layer with a composition (A) as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 23 on said keratin materials, and
- the application of a second layer of a composition (B) as defined according to any one of claims 1, 25 to 32 on the layer formed by composition (A).