FR3131848A1 - Non-sticky stable smooth composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Smooth stable non-sticky composition The present invention relates to a composition, in the form of an O/W emulsion, comprising: (a) at least one oil; (b) at least one fatty alcohol; (c) at least one acid selected from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof; (d) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue (e) at least one thickener; (f) at least one powder and (g) water, wherein the HLB (d) of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a C6-C32 fatty acid residue is between 8.0 and 11.5. The composition according to the present invention includes acid (c), but it is stable and can provide no stickiness or reduced stickiness as well as non-greasy feeling or smooth feeling. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

Smooth stable non-sticky composition

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic or dermatological, non-sticky, creamy and stable.

Prior art

Peeling is a well-known means of improving the appearance of the skin's surface, in particular to treat visible and/or tactile irregularities in human skin and, for example, to reduce pigmentation defects such as freckles. skin or spots due to acne or chickenpox, or to smooth irregularities in skin texture, especially fine lines or wrinkles.

This peeling has the effect of removing part of the skin to be treated (epidermis and possibly upper layer of the dermis) by chemical methods such as the application of compositions containing one or more exfoliating agent(s) stimulating the desquamation of the skin, for example, alpha-hydroxy acids (AHA) such as glycolic acid or beta-hydroxy acids (BHA) such as salicylic acid and phytic acid, or other active substances such as retinoic acid, resorcinol, trichloroacetic acid or phenol.

Disclosure of the invention

It has been found that if an exfoliating agent is incorporated into an emulsion such as a milky lotion, this incorporation often provides a sticky or greasy feeling to the touch and tends to be unstable, particularly unstable over time and/or with changes. of temperature.

An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition which provides no sticky feeling or a reduced sticky feeling after application, as well as a non-greasy feeling or a feeling of softness to the touch, and which is stable, in particular stable in the time and/or under temperature variations, even if the composition includes an exfoliating agent.

The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a composition, in the form of an O/W emulsion, comprising:

(a) at least one oil;

(b) at least one fatty alcohol;

(c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof;

(d) at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue;

(e) at least one thickener;

(f) at least one powder and

(g) water;

where the HLB of (d) the polyglycerolated fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values of (d) the polyglycerolated fatty acid esters having a C 6 -C 32 fatty acid residue C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid is between 8.0 and 11.5.

Oil (a) may be selected from the group consisting of ester oils, triglyceride oils and mixtures thereof.

The quantity of oil (a) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight and better still from 1% to 20%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The fatty alcohol (b) may be selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The quantity of the fatty alcohol (b) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 0. 1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The hydroxy acid above for acid (c) can be chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

The quantity of acid (c) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and better still from 1% to 8% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue may have a polyglycerol-derived moiety of 2 to 10 glycerins, preferably 2 to 8 glycerins, and more preferably 2 to 6 glycerins.

The amount (d) of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably 0 .05% to 15% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The thickener (e) can be chosen from polysaccharides, AMPS (co)polymers and a mixture of these.

The quantity of the thickener (e) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, better still, from 0.1 % to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The powder (f) can be chosen from the group consisting of pigments, fillers and their mixtures.

The quantity of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 1%. at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of water (g) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 45% to 90% by weight, preferably from 50% to 85% by weight and, better still, from 55% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin material.

Best way to make the invention

After diligent research, the inventors have discovered a new approach to providing a composition which provides no sticky feeling or a reduced sticky feeling after application, as well as a non-greasy feeling or a soft touch feeling and which is stable, in particularly stable over time and/or to temperature variations, even if the composition includes an exfoliating agent, using a specific combination of ingredients selected under certain conditions.

Thus, one aspect of the present invention is a composition comprising:

(a) at least one oil;

(b) at least one fatty alcohol;

(c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof;

(d) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue;

(e) at least one thickener;

(f) at least one powder and

(g) water;

Or

the HLB of (d) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values of (d) the polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having an acid residue fat in C ₆ -C ₃₂ is between 8.0 and 11.5.

The composition according to the present invention comprises an exfoliating agent, i.e. acid (c), but may provide no sticky feeling or a reduced sticky feeling as well as a non-greasy feeling or a soft feeling on the skin. to touch.

Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide an excellent sensation during use, in particular when touching the skin during and after application of the composition.

The term “sticky” here refers to a property that provides a sticky sensation to the skin.

The term “oily” here refers to a property that provides a viscous sensation to the skin.

The composition according to the present invention is stable immediately after preparation of the composition and long after preparation of the composition, even during temperature changes from cold to hot. Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is stable over time and can be stored for a long period of time even with temperature changes occurring from winter to summer.

Below, the composition according to the present invention will be explained in more detail.

[Oil]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one oil. Only one type of oil can be used, but two or more different types of oil can be used in combination.

Here, by “oil”, we mean a compound or a fatty substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste or a solid at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) . As (a) oil(s), those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination. These oils can be volatile or non-volatile.

The oil (a) may be a non-polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil or an ether oil or a mixture of these.

The oil (a) can be chosen from the group consisting of oils of vegetable or animal origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

As examples of vegetable oils, we can cite, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, jojoba esters, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil and mixtures thereof.

Examples of synthetic oils include alkane oils such as isododecane and isohexadecane, ester oils, ether oils and artificial triglycerides.

The ester oils are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C _{1 -} aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols. C ₂₆ , the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the present invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, hexyl ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl, cetyl palmitate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isonononaoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

Esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ di or tricarboxylic acids and C ₄ -C ₂₂ alcohols and esters of unsweetened C monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetra or pentahydroxy alcohols ₄ -C ₂₆ can also be used.

We can in particular cite: diethyl sebacate; isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate; diisopropyl sebacate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; bis(2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate; triisostearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

As ester oils, sugar esters and diesters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids can be used. We recall that by the term “sugar” we mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds comprising several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As examples of suitable sugars, mention may be made of sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose and their derivatives, in particular alkyl derivatives such as methylated derivatives, for example, methylglucose.

The sugar esters of fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described above and of linear or branched fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated in C ₆ -C ₃₀ and preferably in C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ . If they are unsaturated, these compounds can have one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from monoesters, diesters, triesters, tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates or their mixtures such as, in particular, the esters mixed oleopalmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate, as well as pentaerythrityl tetraethyl hexanoate.

More particularly, monoesters and diesters are used and, in particular, monooleates or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates and oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.

As an example, we can cite the product marketed under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

As examples of preferable ester oils, mention may be made, for example, of diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, octanoate of cetyl, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, ethylhexyl octanoate2, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, isononyl isononanoate, ethylhexyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, iopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri(2-ethylhexanoate), pentaerythrithyl tetra(2-ethylhexanoate), 2-succinate ethylhexyl, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.

As examples of artificial triglycerides, mention may be made, for example, of capryl caprylyl glycerides, glyceryl trimyristate, glyceryl tripalmitate, glyceryl trilinolenate, glyceryl trilaurate, glyceryl tricaprate, glyceryl tricaprylate , glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) and glyceryl tri(caprate/caprylate) caprylate/linolenate.

As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenopolysiloxane, etc. ; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as cyclohexasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and the like and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the silicone oils are chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

These silicone oils can also be organomodified. The organomodified silicones which can be used in accordance with the present invention are silicone oils as defined above and comprise in their structure one or more organofunctional groups linked by a hydrocarbon group.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968) by Walter Noll, Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60°C and 260°C, and even more particularly from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 and preferably 4 to 5 silicon atoms. These are, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name Volatile Silicone® 7207 by Union Carbide or Silbione® 70045 V2 by Rhodia, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name Volatile Silicone® 7158 by Union Carbide, Silbione® 70045 V5 by Rhodia and dodecamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name Silsoft 1217 by the company Momentive Performance Materials and their mixtures. We can also cite cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type such as Silicone Volatile® FZ 3109 marketed by the company Union Carbide, of formula:

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organosilicon compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-bis(2,2 ,2',2 ',3,3'-hexatrimethylsilyloxy)neopentane;

(II) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes containing 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 -6 m 2 /s at 25°C. An example is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by the company Toray Silicone. Silicones belonging to this category are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, pp. 27-32, Todd & Byers, Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics . The viscosity of silicones is measured at 25°C according to standard ASTM 445 Annex C.

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes can also be used. These non-volatile silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, we can cite, without limitation, the following commercial products:

- Silbione ® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or Mirasil ® oils marketed by Rhodia, such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- oils from the Mirasil ® series marketed by the company Rhodia;

- 200 series oils from the Dow Corning company, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² /s;

- Viscasil ® oils from General Electric and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from General Electric.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups known under the name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the 48 series oils from the company Rhodia.

Among the silicones with aryl groups are polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes and polyalkylarylsiloxanes. As examples, we can cite products marketed under the following names:

- Silbione® oils from the 70 641 series from Rhodia;

- oils from the Rhodorsil® 70 633 and 763 series from Rhodia;

- Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid oil from Dow Corning;

- Bayer PK series silicones, such as the PK20 product;

- certain General Electric SF series oils, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

Organomodified liquid silicones may in particular contain polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy groups. We can thus cite the KF-6017 silicone offered by Shin-Etsu and the Silwet® L722 and L77 oils from the Union Carbide company.

Hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from:

- lower C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear or branched, possibly cyclic. As examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as, for example, isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane and

- linear or branched hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam® and squalane.

As preferred examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched hydrocarbons such as isohexadecane, isododecane, squalane, mineral oil (e.g. liquid paraffin), paraffin , vaseline or petrolatum, naphthalenes, etc. hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, decene/butene copolymer and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the oil (a) can be chosen from triglyceride oils.

The triglyceride oil comprises at least one triglyceride. Triglyceride can be called triacyl glycerol, and three fatty acids or two fatty acids and one non-fatty acid and one glycerol are esterified into the triglyceride.

The fatty acid may have, for example, 4 or more, 6 or more, 8 or more, or 10 or more carbon atoms, and 30 or fewer, 28 or fewer, 26 or fewer, or 24 or fewer carbon atoms. . The fatty acid may have a different carbon chain length, for example, from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 28 carbon atoms, more preferably from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 10 to 24 carbon atoms. The carbon chain can be linear or branched.

The fatty acid can be saturated or unsaturated.

As examples of saturated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of palmitic acid, heptadecanoic acid, stearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, arachidic acid, behenic acid, tetradocosanoic acid, hexadocosanoic acid and octadocosanoic acid.

As examples of unsaturated fatty acids, mention may be made, for example, of palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, vaccenic acid, gadoleic acid, eicosenoic acid, erucic acid, nervonic acid, linoleic acid, eicosadienoic acid, docosadienoic acid, linolenic acid, pinolenic acid, eleostearic acid, mead's acid, eicosatrienoic acid, l stearidonic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosatetraenoic acid, adrenic acid, bosseopentaenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, osbond acid, clupanodonic acid, tetracosapentaenoic acid and nidocosapentaenoic acid,

Examples of non-fatty acid may be dicarboxylic acids which may have, for example, 1 or more, 2 or more, 3 or more, or 4 or more carbon atoms and 12 or less, 10 or less, 8 or less , or 6 carbon atoms or less. The non-fatty acid may have a different carbon chain length, for example, from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, more preferably from 3 to 8 carbon atoms, and even more preferably from 4 to 6 carbon atoms. The carbon chain can be linear or branched.

The non-fatty acid, preferably dicarboxylic acid, may be saturated or unsaturated.

As examples of saturated non-fatty acid, preferably saturated dicarboxylic acid, mention may be made, for example, of oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, azelaic acid and sebacic acid.

As examples of unsaturated fatty acids, we can cite, for example, maleic acid, fumaric acid, citraconic acid, mesaconic acid and 2-pentenoic acid.

The triglyceride oil which may be suitable for the present invention is of vegetable origin. In other words, it is preferable that the triglyceride oil is chosen from vegetable oils.

The vegetable oil can be chosen from extracted vegetable oils, extracted vegetable butters and mixtures thereof.

Vegetable oils include: jojoba oil, babassu oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, canola oil, coconut oil, meadowfoam seed, Brazil nut oil, marula oil, corn oil, argan oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil , flaxseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, coriander oil, castor oil , avocado oil, shea butter oil, rapeseed oil and coconut oil.

Among the vegetable butters, we can cite: shea butter, Nilotica shea butter (Butyrospermum parkii), galam butter (Butyrospermum parkii), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow (Shorea stenoptera), butter of Sal, illipe butter, madhuca or (Bassia) butter, Madhuca longifolia butter, mowrah butter (Madhuca latifolia), katiau butter (Madhuca mottleyana), phulwara butter (M. butyracea) , mango butter (Mangifera indica), murumuru butter (Astrocaryum murumuru), kokum butter (Garcinia indica), ucuuba butter (Virola sebifera), tucuma butter, painya butter (kpangnan ) (Pentadesma butyracea), coffee butter (Coffea arabica), apricot butter (Prunus armeniaca), macadamia butter (Macadamia ternifolia), grape seed butter (Vitis vinifera), avocado butter (Persea gratissima), olive butter (Olea europaea), sweet almond butter (Prunus amygdalus dulcis), cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) and sunflower butter.

In a preferable embodiment, the triglyceride oil may be selected from caprylic/capric/succinic triglyceride, shea butter and a mixture thereof.

It is preferable that the oil (a) is chosen from ester oils, triglyceride oils, hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and mixtures thereof, and preferably chosen from ester oils, triglyceride oils and their mixtures.

It is preferable that the oil (a) is chosen from oils with a molecular weight of less than 600 g/mole.

The amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more , relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the amount of (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less and, more preferably, 20% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the (a) oil(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight, better still from 1 % to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Fat alcohol]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one fatty alcohol. Only one type of fatty alcohol can be used, but two or more different types of fatty alcohol can be used in combination.

The term "fat" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols which have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more and, better still, 10 or more carbon atoms are encompassed under the umbrella of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used in combination.

The fatty alcohol (b) may have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example, from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is chosen from the groups C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkyl and C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ alkenyl. R may or may not be substituted by at least one hydroxyl group.

As non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols (b), mention may be made of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol. , palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and a mixture thereof.

Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, meaning that several species of fatty alcohols can coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the composition according to the present invention is chosen from a mixture of cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol (cetearyl alcohol).

It is preferable that the fatty alcohol (b) is selected from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof.

The amount (b) of fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0. 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity (b) of fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, better still, 5% by weight or less. % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity (b) of fatty alcohol(s) in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Acid]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof. If two or more of these acids are used, they may be the same or different.

It is preferable that the hydroxy acid is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof.

The term “alpha-hydroxy acid”, or “AHA”, here designates a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by a carbon atom. So, in other words, AHA is a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

The alpha-hydroxy acid can be chosen from, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, mandelic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably from glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mixtures thereof and, better still, among lactic acid.

The term “beta-hydroxy acid”, or “BHA”, here designates a carboxylic acid which has at least one carboxyl group and at least one hydroxyl group separated by two carbon atoms.

The beta-hydroxy acid may be salicylic acid.

It is preferable to use, as acids (c), a combination of at least one alpha-hydroxy acid and at least one beta-hydroxy acid and, more preferably, a combination of lactic acid and salicylic acid with phytic acid.

It is known that AHA activates protease in the stratum corneum to promote the breakdown of corneodesmosomes, while in the dermis layer, AHA can promote collagen formation, which then leads to skin sloughing. Additionally, AHA has been reported to also diminish facial pores and blackheads, most likely by targeting enzyme activation and protein functions related to sebum production.

BHA is known to add keratolytic activity which promotes peeling and sloughing of cells in the stratum corneum. It also decongests the skin by softening the sebum which blocks the pores. For this reason, it is effective in improving flaking and particularly effective for acne and oily skin.

The amount of the acid(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, compared to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the acid(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, better still, 8% by weight or less. % by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of acid(s) (c) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 1 % to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Polyglyceryl fatty acid ester]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue. Only one type of such polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be used, but two or more different types of such polyglyceryl fatty acid esters may be used in combination.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue is one type of a nonionic surfactant.

It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue has a polyglycerol moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerols, more preferably 2 to 8 glycerols, and even more preferably another 2 to 6 glycerols.

If only one (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue is used, (d) the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C _{6 -} fatty acid residue C ₃₂ has an HLB (Hydrophilic/Hydrophilic Balance) value of 8.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.5 to 11.0, and more preferably 9.0 to 10.5.

If two or more (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue are used, the weighted average of the HLB values of the (d) polyglyceryl fatty acid esters having a C 6 -C 32 fatty acid residue C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid is 8.0 to 11.5, preferably 8.5 to 11.0 and, more preferably, 9.0 to 10.5.

The polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue can be chosen from mono, di and tri polyglyceryl fatty acid esters. It is preferable that the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester (d) is chosen from polyglyceryl fatty acid monoesters and diesters.

It is preferable that ingredient (d) comprises at least one first polyglycyl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residue and at least one second polyglycyl fatty acid ester having a C 6 -C 22 fatty acid residue. C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid.

The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residue. The C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residue may be derived from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably saturated fatty acids, comprising 6 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 7 to 20 carbon atoms and, more preferably, again, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, capric acid, caprylic acid and myristic acid.

The first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residue can be chosen from the group consisting of the following elements: PG2 caprylate, PG2 sesquicaprylate, PG2 dicaprylate, PG2 tricaprylate, PG2 caprate, PG2 sesquicaprate , PG2 dicaprate, PG2 tricaprate, PG2 laurate, PG2 sesquilaurate, PG2 dilaurate, PG2 trilaurate, PG2 myristate, PG2 sesquimyristate, PG2 dimyristate, PG2 trimyristate, PG2 srearate, PG2 sesquisrearate, PG2 disrearate, PG2 trisrearate, PG2 isosrearate, PG 2 sesquiisosrearate, PG2 diisosrearate, PG2 triisosrearate, PG2 oleate, PG2 sesquioleate, PG2 dioleate, PG2 trioleate, PG3 caprylate, PG3 sesquicaprylate, PG3 dicaprylate, PG3 tricaprylate, PG3 caprate, PG3 sesquicaprate, PG3 dicaprate, PG3 tricaprate, PG3 laurate, PG3 sesquilaurate, PG3 dilaurate, PG3 trilaurate, PG3 myristate, PG3 sesquimyristate, PG3 dimyristate, PG3 trimyristate, PG3 srearate, PG3 sesquisrearate, PG3 disrearate, PG3 trisrearate, PG3 isosrearate, PG3 sesquiisosrearate, PG3 diisosrearate, PG3 triisosrearate, PG3 oleate, PG3 sesquioleate, PG3 dioleate, PG3 trioleate , PG4 caprylate, PG4 sesquicaprylate, PG4 dicaprylate, PG4 tricaprylate, PG4 caprate, PG4 sesquicaprate, PG4 dicaprate, PG4 tricaprate, PG4 laurate, PG4 sesquilaurate, PG4 dilaurate, PG4 trilaurate, PG4 myristate, PG4 sesquimyristate, PG4 dimyristate, PG4 trimyristate, PG4 srearate, PG4 sesquisrearate, PG4 disrearate, PG4 trisrearate, PG4 isosrearate, PG4 sesquiisosrearate, PG4 diisosrearate, PG4 triisosrearate, PG4 oleate, PG4 sesquioleate, PG4 dioleate, PG4 trioleate, PG5 caprylate, PG5 sesquicaprylate, PG5 dicaprylate , PG5 tricaprylate, PG5 tetracaprylate, PG5 caprate, PG5 sesquicaprate, PG5 dicaprate, PG5 tricaprate, PG5 tetracaprate, PG5 laurate, PG5 sesquilaurate, PG5 dilaurate, PG5 trilaurate, PG5 tetralaurate, PG5 myristate, PG5 sesquimyristate, PG5 dimyristate, PG5 trimyristate, PG5 tetramyristate, PG5 srearate, PG5 sesquisréarate , PG5 disrearate, PG5 trisrearate, PG5 tetrasrearate, PG5 isosrearate, PG5 sesquiisosrearate, PG5 diisosrearate, PG5 triisosrearate, PG5 tetraisosrearate, PG5 oleate, PG5 sesquioleate, PG5 dioleate, PG5 trioleate, PG5 tetraoleate, PG6 caprylate, PG6 sesquicaprylate, PG6 dicaprylate, PG6 tricaprylate, PG6 tetracaprylate, PG6 pentacaprylate, PG6 caprate, PG6 sesquicaprate, PG6 dicaprate, PG6 tricaprate, PG6 tetracaprate, PG6 pentacaprate, PG6 laurate, PG6 sesquilaurate, PG6 dilaurate, PG6 trilaurate, PG6 tetralaurate, PG6 pentalaurate, PG6 myristate, PG6 ses quimyristate, PG6 dimyristate, PG6 trimyristate, PG6 tetramyristate, PG6 pentamyristate, PG6 srearate, PG6 sesquiisosrearate, PG6 disrearate, PG6 trisrearate, PG6 tetrasrearate, PG6 pentasrearate, PG6 isosrearate, PG6 sesquiisosrearate, PG6 diisosrearate, PG6 triiso srearate, PG6 tetraisosrearate, PG6 pentaisosrearate, PG6 oleate , PG6 sesquioleate, PG6 dioleate, PG6 trioleate, PG6 tetraoleate, PG6 pentaoleate, PG10 caprylate, PG10 sesquicaprylate, PG10 dicaprylate, PG10 tricaprylate, PG10 tetracaprylate, PG10 pentacaprylate, PG10 hexacaprylate, PG10 caprate, PG10 sesquicaprate, PG 10 dicaprate, PG10 tricaprate, PG10 tetracaprate, PG10 pentacaprate, PG10 hexacaprate, PG10 laurate, PG10 sesquilaurate, PG10 dilaurate, PG10 trilaurate, PG10 tetralaurate, PG10 pentalaurate, PG10 hexalaurate, PG10 myristate, PG10 sesquimyristate, PG10 dimyristate, PG10 trimyristate, PG10 tetramyristate, PG10 pentamyristate, PG10 hexamyristate, PG10 srearate, PG10 sesquisrearate, PG10 disrearate, PG10 trisrearate, PG10 tetrasrearate, PG10 pentasrearate, PG10 hexasrearate, PG10 isosrearate, PG10 sesquiisosrearate, PG10 diisosrearate, PG10 triisosrearate, PG10 tetraisos rearate, PG10 pentaisosrearate, PG10 hexaisosrearate, PG10 oleate, PG10 sesquioleate, PG10 dioleate , PG10 trioleate, PG10 tetraoleate, PG10 pentaoleate, and PG10 hexaoleate.

It is preferable that the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residue is chosen from:

- polyglyceryl monoisostearate comprising 2 to 6 units of glycerol,

- polyglyceryl monocaprate comprising 2 to 6 units of glycerol,

- polyglyceryl monooleate comprising 2 to 6 glycerol units, and

- polyglyceryl distearate comprising 2 to 6 units of glycerol.

As examples of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residue, mention may be made of Salacos 41V from Nisshin Oilio Group, Ltd., Tegosoft PC 41 from Evonik Co., Ltd. and Emalex DSG-6 from Nihon Emulsion Co., Ltd.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester has a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue. The C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue may be derived from saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, preferably saturated fatty acids, comprising 24 to 32 carbon atoms, preferably 25 to 30 carbon atoms and, more preferably again, 26 to 28 carbon atoms, such as lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, cerotic acid and montanic acid.

It is preferable that the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue is a polyglyceryl diester represented by the following formula (B)

R ³ -C(O)-(O-CH ₂ -CH(OH)-CH ₂ )nOC(O)-R ⁴ (B)

Or:

R ³ and R ⁴ respectively designate a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C ₂₄ to C ₃₂ fatty chain and

n denotes 2 to 10, preferably 2 to 8 and even better 2 to 6.

According to one embodiment, in formula (B), the group R ³ -C(O)- corresponds to the carbon chain of a C ₂₄ to C ₃₂ fatty acid, said acid being most often linear and saturated, and preferably corresponds to a linear and saturated C ₂₄ to C ₃₀ fatty acid. These are, for example, tetracosanoic (or lignoceric) acid (C24) and hexacosanoic (or cerotic) acid (C26). The R ⁴ group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of an alcohol, said alcohol most often being saturated and linear, and having a C ₂₄ to C ₃₂ chain, preferably C ₂₄ to C ₃₀ .

According to the present invention, the polyglyceryl diester can be obtained by esterification of a solid wax in the presence of at least one polyol.

Depending on the origin of the wax, the monoester mixture may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxypalmitic or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax. Preferably, said alcohol is eicosanol, docosanol or tetracosanol.

Examples of waxes are beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, syagrus coronata wax, shellac wax, and sugarcane wax. natural solids.

Preferably, the solid wax is beeswax.

The solid waxes suitable for obtaining the polyglyceryl diester can have a melting point of between 50 and 90°C. They correspond to mixtures essentially comprising monoesters of formula R ¹ -C(O)-OR ² , where the group R ¹ -C(O)- corresponds to the carbon chain of the fatty acid, said acid being generally linear and saturated and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 24, and in particular 26, and preferably up to 32 and better still 30.

Depending on the origin of the wax, the monoester mixture may also contain a certain proportion of hydroxy acid esters such as hydroxypalmitic acid or hydroxystearic acid. This is the case, for example, with beeswax. The R ² group corresponds to the hydrocarbon chain of an alcohol, said alcohol most often being saturated and linear and having a number of carbon atoms of at least 18, in particular 20, and preferably up to 44 and better more 34. Beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, P wax, shellac wax and sugar cane wax are examples of natural solid waxes.

Preferably, the solid wax suitable for the esterification reaction is beeswax.

Preferably, the polyol used for esterification is chosen from the group comprising ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 2-methyl propanediol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, trimethylol propane, sorbitol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, glycerol, diglycerol and polyglycerol (i.e. a polymer of glycerol units). Better yet, the polyol is a polyglycerol, having an average degree of polymerization of between 2 and 6, preferably 3. Preferably, the polyol is a polyglycerol-3.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue may comprise the acid portion of a solid wax. Waxes have a complex composition. What they have in common is that they contain a mixture of very long-chain acid monoesters and fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester with a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue is a wax derivative obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax in the presence of at least one polyol and optionally of at least one catalyst. In such a case, a transesterification reaction occurs between the different chemical entities giving the wax derivative.

The preferred catalysts are alkaline or alkaline earth hydroxides or alkoxides, calcium hydroxide, potassium or sodium carbonates or catalysts based on tin or titanium.

Preferably, the solid wax is advantageously chosen from the group comprising carnauba wax, candelilla wax, rice wax, sunflower wax, sugar cane wax, Syagrus coronata wax, bee and Shellac wax.

In a preferred embodiment, the wax derivative is obtained by reaction of beeswax and a polyglycerol such as polyglycerol-3.

In practice, the reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature between 100°C and 220°C, advantageously between 150°C and 200°C.

It is preferable that the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue is polyglyceryl-3 beeswax.

The second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue can be used as a combination with other ingredients.

For example, the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue can be used as a combination of jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and jojoba wax. bee-polyglyceryl-3.

As a second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue, EMULIUM® MELLIFERA (Gattefossé) comprising a mixture of jojoba wax, cetyl alcohol, polyglyceryl-6 distearate and of polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (and) Jojoba esters (and) Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (and) Cetyl alcohol) can be used. This mixture comprises 5% to 30% by weight of jojoba wax; from 3% to 15% by weight of cetyl alcohol; at least 50% by weight of polyglyceryl-6 distearate and 3 to 15% by weight of polyglyceryl-3 beeswax, relative to the total weight of the mixture.

The quantity (d) of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity (d) of the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention may be 20%. by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less and, more preferably, 10% by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity (d) of polyglyceryl fatty acid ester(s) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, from preferably from 0.05% to 15% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

If ingredient (d) comprises at least one first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue, and at least one second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a fatty acid residue in C ₂₄ -C ₃₂ , the weight ratio between the quantity of the first polyglyceryl fatty acid ester and the quantity of the second polyglyceryl fatty acid ester may be greater than 15 and less than 35, preferably greater than 17 and less than 30 and, better yet, greater than 19 and less than 25.

Thickening]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (e) at least one thickener. Only one type of thickener may be used, but two or more different types of thickeners may be used in combination.

The (e) thickener or thickening agent may be chosen from organic and inorganic thickeners.

The thickener (e) can be chosen from the group consisting of:

(i) associative thickeners;

(ii) crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid;

(iii) Crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl acrylate;

(iv) nonionic homopolymers and copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and/or amide type;

(v) ammonium acrylate homopolymers and ammonium acrylate-acrylamide copolymers;

(vi) polysaccharides and

(vii) C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols.

(i) As used herein, the expression "associative thickener" refers to an amphiphilic thickener comprising both hydrophilic units and hydrophobic units, for example, at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit.

Representative associative thickening agents which can be used are associative polymers chosen from:

(aa) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit;

(bb) anionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit;

(cc) cationic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit and

(dd) amphiphilic amphoteric polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit;

in which the fatty chain contains 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

The (aa) nonionic amphiphilic polymers comprising at least one fatty chain and at least one hydrophilic unit can, for example, be chosen from:

(1) celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain; We can cite as examples:

- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, and whose alkyl groups are, for example, C ₈ -C ₂₂ , such as the product Natrosol Plus Grade 330 CS (alkyl in C ₁ -C ₆ ) marketed by the company Aqualon and the product Bermocoll EHM 100 marketed by the company Berol Nobel and

- celluloses modified by alkylphenyl ether groups of polyalkylene glycol, such as the product Amercell Polymer HM-1500 (nonylphenyl ether (15) of polyethylene glycol) marketed by the company Amerchol.

(2) hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) marketed by the company Lamberti, and the RE210-3 products (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) marketed by the company Rhône-Poulenc,

(3) polyether urethanes comprising at least one fatty chain, such as C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl groups such as, for example, the products Elfacos T 210 and Elfacos T 212 marketed by the company Akzo or the products Aculyn 44 and Aculyn 46 marketed by the company Rohm & Haas.

(4) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic fatty chain monomers;

examples that may be mentioned include:

- the products Antaron V216 and Ganex V216 (vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer) marketed by the company ISP and

- the products Antaron V220 and Ganex V220 (vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer) marketed by the company ISP.

(5) Copolymers of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylates or methacrylates and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as the copolymer of oxyethylenated methyl acrylate/stearyl acrylate marketed by the Goldschmidt company under the name Antil 208.

(6) copolymers of hydrophilic acrylates or methacrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as a polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

The amphiphilic anionic polymers (bb) comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty unit can, for example, be chosen from those comprising at least one fatty chain allylic ether unit and at least one hydrophilic unit comprising a fatty chain unit. ethylenic monomeric anionic unsaturated, for example, a vinyl carboxylic acid unit and, further, for example, be selected from units derived from acrylic acids, methacrylic acids and mixtures thereof, in which the fatty chain allylic ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I) below:

CH ₂ ═C(R ₁ )CH ₂ OB _n R (I)

in which R ₁ is chosen from H and CH ₃ , B is an ethyleneoxy radical, n is chosen between zero and integers ranging from 1 to 100, R is chosen from hydrocarbon radicals chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl radicals, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl, containing from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and, in addition, for example, from 10 to 24 carbon atoms and further, for example, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

In one embodiment, a unit of formula (I) is, for example, a unit in which R ₁ may be H, n may be equal to 10, and R may be a stearyl radical (C ₁₈ ).

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, according to an emulsion polymerization process, in patent EP-0 216 479 B2.

In one embodiment, the anionic amphiphilic polymers are, for example, polymers formed from 20% to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, from 5% to 60% by weight of (meth) lower alkyl acrylates, from 2% to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I) and from 0% to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable unsaturated polyethylene monomer , for example, diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate and methylenebisacrylamide.

Examples of such polymers are crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, and polyethylene glycol stearyl ether (10 EO) (Steareth-10), such as those marketed by the company Ciba under the names Salcare SC 80 and Salcare SC 90, which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a cross-linked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10 (40/50/10) allyl ether.

The anionic amphiphilic polymers can, in addition, be chosen, for example, from those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of a type such as an alkyl ester ( C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) of an unsaturated carboxylic acid. The hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds, for example, to the monomer of formula (II) below:

(II)

where R ¹ is chosen from H, CH ₃ , and C ₂ H ₅ , that is to say units of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and methacrylic acid. The hydrophobic unit of a type such as a (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds, for example, to the monomer of formula (III) below:

(III)

where R ¹ is chosen from H, CH ₃ , and C ₂ H ₅ (i.e. units of acrylate, methacrylate and methacrylate) and is, for example, chosen from, for example, H (units of acrylate) and CH ₃ (methacrylate units) and R ² is chosen from C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl radicals, for example, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl radicals.

Examples of (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids include lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate and acrylate dodecyl and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Anionic amphiphilic polymers of this type are described and prepared, for example, according to US Patent Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

The representative anionic amphiphilic polymers which can be used can, in addition, be chosen from polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising:

(7) acrylic acid, an ester of formula (IV) below:

(IV)

where R ¹ is chosen from H and CH ₃ , R ² is chosen from C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl radicals such as alkyl radicals containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and a crosslinking agent; such as polymers derived from 95 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), from 4 to 40% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit), and from 0 to 6% by weight of cross-linking polymerizable monomer, or polymers derived from 98 to 96% by weight of acrylic acid (hydrophilic unit), 1 to 4% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate (hydrophobic unit ), and from 0.1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer;

(8) acrylic acid and lauryl methacrylate, such as polymers formed from 66% by weight of acrylic acid and 34% by weight of lauryl methacrylate.

The crosslinking agent may be a monomer comprising the group

with at least one other polymerizable group whose unsaturated bonds are not conjugated.

Mention may be made, for example, of polyallyl ethers such as polyallylsucrose and polyallylpentaerythritol.

Among said polymers above, we can cite, for example, the products marketed by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1, Pemulen TR2 and Carbopol 1382, and also, for example, Pemulen TR1, and the product marketed by the company SEPC under the name Coatex SX.

Among the polymers with anionic amphiphilic fatty chains, we can also cite, for example, the ethoxylated copolymer of methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/alkyl dimethyl-meta-isopropenylbenzylisocyanate sold under the name Viscophobic DB 1000 by the company Amerchol.

The cationic amphiphilic (cc) polymers used are, for example, chosen from quaternized cellulose derivatives and polyacrylates comprising amino side groups.

The quaternized cellulose derivatives are, for example, chosen from

quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl and alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and their mixtures, and

quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.

Quaternized and non-quaternized polyacrylates comprising amino side groups have, for example, hydrophobic groups such as Steareth 20 (polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (20)) and (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl itaconate PEG-20 .

The alkyl radicals carried by the quaternized celluloses and hydroxyethylcelluloses above, for example, contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

The aryl radicals are, for example, chosen from phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl and anthryl groups.

Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chains are the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C ₁₂ alkyl), and Quatrisoft LM -X 529-8 (C ₁₈ alkyl) marketed by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel QL (C ₁₂ alkyl), and Crodacel QS (C ₁₈ alkyl) marketed by the company Croda.

Examples of polyacrylates with amino side chains are polymers 8781-124B or 9492-103 and Structure Plus from National Starch.

Among the amphoteric amphiphilic (dd) polymers comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain unit, mention may be made, for example, of methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride/acrylic acid/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl methacrylate copolymers. , in which the alkyl radical is, for example, a stearyl radical.

The associative thickeners of the compositions may have, for example, in solution or dispersion at a concentration of 1% of active ingredient in water, a viscosity, measured using a Rheomat RM 180 rheometer at 25°C, greater than 0.1 cps and further, for example, greater than 0.2 cps, at a shear rate of 200 s ^-1 .

The associative thickener may be an associative polymeric thickener, preferably an associative polyurethane thickener.

The associative polyurethane thickener may be cationic or non-ionic.

Among the associative polyurethane thickeners, mention may be made of associative polyurethane derivatives such as those obtained by polymerization: approximately 20 to 70% by weight of a carboxylic acid containing α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, approximately 20 to 80% by weight of a non-surfactant monomer with α, β -monoethylenically unsaturation, approximately 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the product of the reaction of a monohydroxylated surfactant with a monoisocyanate with monoethylenically unsaturation:

Analogs are described in particular in EP 173109 and more particularly in Example 3 of the latter. More precisely, this polymer is a methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethylmetisopropenylbenzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol (40 EO) in a 25% aqueous dispersion. This product is supplied under the reference VISCOPHOBE DB1000 by the company AMERCHOL.

Cationic associative polyurethane thickeners whose family has been described by the applicant in French patent application No. 0009609 are also suitable. They can be represented more particularly by the following general formula (A): RX-(P) n -[L-(Y) m ] r -L'-(P') p -X'-R' (A) in which: R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom; X and L, L' and L'', identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate; P and P', identical or different, represent an amine functional group carrying or not a hydrophobic group; Y represents a hydrophilic group; r is an integer between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 and, in particular, between 1 and 25; n, m and p are each independently of each other between 0 and 1000; the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

In a very advantageous embodiment, the only hydrophobic groups of these polyurethanes are the R and R' groups at the end of the chain.

According to a first preferred embodiment, the associative polyurethane thickener corresponds to formula (A) in which R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L'', n and p are between 1 and 1000, and L, L', L'', P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated in formula (A).

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane thickener corresponds to formula (A) in which R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X, X' each represent a group L'', n and p are equal to 0, and L, L', L'', Y and m have the meanings in formula (A) indicated above.

The fact that n and p are equal to 0 means that these polymers do not contain units derived from an amine-functional monomer, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation. The protonated amine functions of these polyurethanes result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functional groups at the end of the chain, followed by alkylation of the primary amine functional groups formed by alkylating agents containing a hydrophobic group, i.e. say compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

According to another preferred embodiment of the present invention, the associative polyurethane thickener corresponds to formula (A) in which R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group, X and X' both independently represent a group containing a quaternary amine, n and p are zero, and L, L', Y and m have the meanings indicated in formula (A).

The number average molecular weight of cationic associative polyurethane thickeners is usually between 400 and 500,000, in particular between 1,000 and 400,000, and ideally between 1,000 and 300,000 g/mole.

When X and/or X' designate a group containing a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulas:

Or for

Or for

in which :

R ₂ represents a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S , O, P ;

R ₁ and R ₃ , which are identical or different, designate a linear or branched alkenyl or C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N , S, O and P;

A ^- is a physiologically acceptable counterion.

The groups L, L' and L'' represent a group of formula:

in which :

Z represents -O-, -S- or -NH- and

R ₄ represents a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, containing or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S ,O,P;

The groups P and P', comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas:

or or

or or

or or

in which :

R ₅ and R ₇ have the same meanings as R ₂ defined above; R ₆ , R ₈ and R ₉ have the same meanings as R ₁ and R ₃ defined above;

R ₁₀ represents a linear or branched alkylene group, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P;

A ^- is a physiologically acceptable counterion.

With regard to the meaning of Y, the term hydrophilic group means a water-soluble polymeric or non-polymeric group. By way of example, when it is not a question of polymers, we can cite ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol. According to a preferred embodiment, in the case of a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and, in particular, a polyethylene oxide or a polypropylene oxide.

The cationic associative polyurethane thickeners of formula (A) are formed from diisocyanates and various compounds having functional groups containing a labile hydrogen. The functional groups containing a labile hydrogen can be alcohol functional groups, primary or secondary amine functional groups or thiol functional groups which give, after reaction with the diisocyanate functional groups, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas, respectively. The term “polyurethanes” of the present invention covers these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas and their copolymers.

A first type of compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a compound containing at least one unit containing an amine functional group. This compound can be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say according to a preferred embodiment, this compound contains two labile hydrogen atoms carried, for example, by a hydroxyl functional group, primary amine , secondary amine or thiol. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

As noted above, this compound may contain more than one amine functional group-containing unit. It is then a polymer carrying a repeat of the unit containing an amine functional group.

This type of compound can be represented by one of the following formulas:

HZ-(P) n -ZH, or HZ-(P') p -ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

As an example of a compound containing an amine functional group, mention may be made of N-methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyldiethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula O═C═NR 4 -N═C═O in which R4 is defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, butane diisocyanate and hexane diisocyanate.

A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (A) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (A).

This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a functional group containing a labile hydrogen, for example, a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functional group.

For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as in particular stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol and decyl alcohol. When this compound contains a polymer chain, it may be, for example, a hydroxyl hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (A) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound containing at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of the RQ or R'Q type, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane thickener may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is ensured by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. It is also possible to have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The functional groups containing a labile hydrogen are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functional groups. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the end of the chain with one of these functional groups containing a labile hydrogen.

By way of example, when it is not a question of polymers, we can cite ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

In the case of a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and, in particular, a polyethylene oxide or a polypropylene oxide.

The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (A) is optional. Indeed, the units containing a quaternary or protonated amine functional group may be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in aqueous solution. Although the presence of a hydrophilic group Y is optional, cationic associative polyurethane thickeners which contain such a group are nevertheless preferred.

The associative polyurethane thickener used in the present invention can also be non-ionic, in particular non-ionic polyurethane polyethers. Nonionic polyurethane-polyethers may have both at least one hydrophilic moiety and at least one hydrophobic moiety.

More particularly, said polymers may contain in their chain both hydrophilic sequences, most often of a polyoxyethylenated nature, and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic bonds alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic bonds.

Preferably, these polyether-polyurethanes comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 20, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains being able to be pendant chains or chains with end of a hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible to consider one or more hanging chains. Additionally, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

The polyether-polyurethanes can be polyblocks, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (polyblock copolymers for example). These same polymers can also be in the form of grafted units or be star-shaped.

The associative polyurethane thickener can form a network in water in which the hydrophobic part connects quasi-micelles.

Therefore, associative polyurethane thickeners can increase the viscosity or consistency of the composition according to the present invention. Thus, after application of the composition according to the present invention, the original elasticity of the composition can be quickly recovered.

The nonionic polyether-polyurethanes with a fatty chain can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups.

Nonionic polyether-polyurethanes feature a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked by other chemical bonds to the hydrophobic sequences are also included among the nonionic polyether-polyurethanes with a hydrophobic chain.

As an example of nonionic polyether-polyurethanes with a hydrophobic chain which can be used in the present invention, one can also use Rheolate® 205 containing a urea functional group sold by the company RHEOX or even Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as than Acrysol RM 184®.

We can also cite the product ELFACOS T210® with a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® containing a C ₁₈ alkyl chain marketed by AKZO.

The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with C ₂₀ alkyl chain and urethane bond, marketed at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. As an example of such polymers, mention may be made of Rheolate® 255, Rheolate® 278 and Rheolate® 244 marketed by the company RHEOX. It is also possible to use the DW 1206F and DW 1206J products marketed by the company ROHM & HAAS.

The polyether-polyurethanes described above which can be used can also be chosen from those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen-Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380-389 (1993).

Like the polyether-polyurethanes described above, we can cite polyurethane-polyethers comprising in their chain at least one polyoxyethylenated hydrophilic block and at least one of the hydrophobic blocks containing at least one sequence chosen from aliphatic sequences, cycloaliphatic sequences and aromatic sequences.

It is preferable that the polyurethane-polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic block, and where the hydrocarbon chains are chosen from the pendant chains and the chains at the end of the hydrophilic block chain. .

According to a particular form of the present invention, a polyurethane/polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, will be used, (ii) a polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol comprising 100 moles of ethylene oxide, and (iii) a diisocyanate.

Such polyurethanes/polyethers are notably marketed by the company Elementis under the name Rheolate FX 1100® and Rheoluxe 811®, which is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol containing 136 moles of ethylene oxide, polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol with 100 moles of ethylene oxide and hexamethylene diisocyanate (HDI) with a weight average molecular weight of 40,000 (INCI name: PEG-136/Steareth-100/HDI copolymer).

According to another particular form of the present invention, a polyurethane/polyether capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide will be used. , (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyurethanes/polyethers are notably marketed by the company Rohm & Haas under the names Aculyn 46® and Aculyn 44®.

Aculyn 46® with the INCI name: PEG-150/Stearyl Alcohol/SMDI copolymer, is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) ( SMDI) at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%) (INCI name: PEG-150/stearyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer).

Aculyn 44® (PEG-150/Decyl Alcohol/SMDI Copolymer) is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate comprising 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylenebis(4-cyclohexyl isocyanate) (SMDI) at 35 % by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol (39%) and water (26%) (INCI name: PEG-150/decyl alcohol/SMDI copolymer).

As associative polyurethanes, it is preferable to use a compound represented by the following formula (1):

R ¹ -{(OR ² ) _k -OCONH-R ³ [-NHCOO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ ] _h } _m (1)

in which R ¹ represents a hydrocarbon group, R ² and R ⁴ independently represent alkylene groups having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, which alkylene groups may be identical or different from each other, or a phenylethylene group, R ³ represents a group hydrocarbon, which may optionally have a urethane bond, R ⁵ represents a branched chain or a secondary hydrocarbon group, m represents a number of at least 2, h represents a number of at least 1, k represents a number between 1 and 500, and n represents a number between 1 and 200.

The hydrophobic modified polyurethane represented by the general formula (1) above is obtained, for example, by reaction of at least one polyether polyol represented by the formula R ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH] _m , at at least one at least one polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R ³ -(NCO) _h+1 , and at least one monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ .

In such cases, R ¹ to R ⁵ in general formula (1) are determined by the compounds RR ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH] _m , R ³ -(NCO) _h+1 and HO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ . The charge ratios between the three compounds are not particularly limited and should preferably be such that the ratio of the isocyanate group derived from the polyisocyanate to the hydroxyl group derived from the polyether polyol and the polyether monoalcohol is chosen in the range of NCO/OH between 0 .8:1 and 1.4:1.

The polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH] _m and which can be preferably used for obtaining the associative thickener represented by the general formula (1) can be obtained by addition polymerization of an m-hydric polyol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene oxide or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide , and the like.

The polyols should preferably be di- to octahydric polyols. Examples of di- to octahydric polyols include dihydric alcohols, such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, and neopentyl glycol; trihydric alcohols, such as glycerol, trioxy isobutane, 1,2,3-butanetriol, 1,2,3-pentanetriol, 2-methyl-1,2,3-propanetriol, 2-methyl-2 ,3,4-butanetriol, 2-ethyl-1,2,3-butanetriol, 2,3,4-pentanetriol, 2,3,4-hexanetriol, 4-propyl-3,4,5-heptanetriol, 2,4 -dimethyl-2,3,4-pentanetriol, pentamethylglycerol, pentaglycerol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,4-pentanetriol, trimethylolethane and trimethylolpropane; tetrahydric alcohols, such as pentaerythritol, 1,2,3,4-pentanetetrol, 2,3,4,5-hexanetetrol, 1,2,4,5-pentanetetrol and 1,3,4,5 -hexanetetrol; pentahydric alcohols, such as adonitol, arabitol and xylitol; hexahydric alcohols, such as dipentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol and iditol and octahydric alcohols, such as sucrose.

Furthermore, R ² is determined by the alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like, which is subjected to the addition. In particular, for availability and excellent effects, an alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, or styrene oxide will be preferred.

The alkylene oxide, styrene oxide, or the like to be subjected to addition may be subjected to a single polymerization, or a random polymerization or a sequenced polymerization of at least two elements. The procedure for the addition can be a conventional procedure. Furthermore, the degree of polymerization k can be chosen in the range of 0 to 1000, preferably in the range of 1 to 500 and, more preferably, in the range of 10 to 200. Furthermore, the ratio between the group ethylene occupying R ² should preferably be in the range of 50 to 100% by mass relative to the total amount of R ² . In such cases, the appropriate associative thickener for the purposes of the present invention is obtained.

Furthermore, the molecular weight of the polyether polyol compound which is represented by the formula R ¹ -[(OR ² ) _k -OH] _m should preferably be chosen in the range of 500 to 100,000, and more preferably should be chosen from the range of 1,000 to 50,000.

The polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R ³ -(NCO) _h+1 and which can be used preferably for obtaining the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) used in accordance with the present invention is not not particularly limited in that the polyisocyanate has at least two isocyanate groups in the molecule. Examples of polyisocyanates include aliphatic diisocyanates, aromatic diisocyanates, alicyclic diisocyanates, biphenyl diisocyanate, phenylmethane diisocyanate, phenylmethane triisocyanate, and phenylmethane tetraisocyanate.

Likewise, it is possible to use dimers and trimers (isocyanurate bonds) of the polyisocyanates listed above. In addition, it is possible to use a biuret obtained by reaction with an amine.

In addition, it is possible to use a polyisocyanate having a urethane bond obtained by a reaction of the aforementioned polyisocyanate compound and a polyol. As a polyol, di- to octahydric polyols are preferable, and the polyols listed above are preferable. In cases where a trihydric or higher polyisocyanate is used as the polyisocyanate which is represented by the formula R ³ -(NCO) _n+1 , it is preferable to employ the above-mentioned polyisocyanate having the urethane bond.

The polyether monoalcohol which is represented by the formula HO-(R ⁴ -O) _n -R ⁵ and which can be preferably used to obtain the hydrophobically modified polyether urethane represented by the general formula (1) employed according to the present invention n is not particularly limited in that the polyether monoalcohol is a polyether of a straight chain, branched chain or secondary monohydric alcohol. The polyether monoalcohol can be obtained by addition polymerization of the straight chain, branched chain or secondary monohydric alcohol with an alkylene oxide, such as ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, butylene or epichlorohydrin, or with styrene oxide, etc.

The compound represented by general formula (1) can be produced, for example, by heating at a temperature of 80 to 90°C for 1 to 3 hours and thereby causing a reaction in the same manner as in the ordinary reaction of a polyether and an isocyanate.

As a compound represented by general formula (1), polyethylene glycol-240/decyltetradeceth-20/hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is preferable. Polyethylene glycol-240/decyltetradeceth-20/hexamethylene diisocyanate copolymer is also called PEG-240/HDI bis-decyltetradeceth-20 ether copolymer.

According to the present invention, it is preferable that the associative polyurethane thickener is chosen from the copolymer Steareth-100/PEG-136/HDI marketed by the company Rheox under the name Rheolate FX 1100, the copolymer PEG-240/HDI Bis- decyltetradeceth-20 ether marketed by the company Asahi Denka under the name Adekanol GT-700, and mixtures thereof.

(ii) Among the crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, mention may be made of those crosslinked with an allylic alcohol ether from the sugar series. We can cite the carbomer which is a homopolymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with an allyl ether of pentaerythritol, an allyl ether of sucrose or an allyl ether of propylene, such as the products marketed under the names Carbopol 980, 981, 954, 2984, and 5984 by the company Lubrizol or the products marketed under the names Synthalen M and Synthalen K by the company 3 VSA.

(iii) The crosslinked copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl acrylate may be chosen from crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in 38% aqueous dispersion. of active material marketed, for example, under the name Viscoatex 538C by the company Coatex and the crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and ethyl acrylate in aqueous dispersion with 28% active material marketed under the name Aculyn 33 by the company Rohm & Haas. The crosslinked copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate comprise an aqueous dispersion containing 30% of active material marketed under the name CARBOPOL AQUA SF-1 by the company NOVEON.

(iv) Among the nonionic homopolymers or copolymers comprising ethylenically unsaturated monomers of the ester and/or amide type, mention may be made of products marketed under the names: Cyanamer P250 from the company Cytec (polyacrylamide); PMMA MBX-8C from US Cosmetics (methyl methacrylate/ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer); Acryloid B66 from Rohm & Haas (butyl methacrylate/methyl methacrylate copolymer) and BPA 500 from Kobo (polymethyl methacrylate).

(v) Mention may be made as ammonium acrylate homopolymers of the product sold under the name Microsap PAS 5193 by the company Hoechst.

The copolymers of ammonium acrylate and acrylamide include the product marketed under the name Bozepol C Nouveau or the product PAS 5193 marketed by the company Hoechst (which are described and prepared in documents FR-2 416 723, U.S. Patent. No. 2,798,053 and U.S. Patent No. 2,923,692)

(vi) The polysaccharides are, for example, chosen from glucans, modified and unmodified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from plants such as yellow peas and tubers, such as potatoes or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives (for example methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses), mannans, xylans, lignins, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitins, chitosans, glucuronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, pectic acids and pectins, alginic acid and alginates, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, glycosaminoglucans, gum arabic, tragacanth gum, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galacto-mannans such as guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives (for example, hydroxypropyl guar), sclerotinia gum and xanthan gums and mixtures thereof.

For example, the polysaccharides which can be used are chosen from those described, for example, in, “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology”, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pages 896-900, and Volume 15, pages 439-458, in “Polymers in Nature” by E. A. MacGregor and C. T. Greenwood, published by John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pages 240-328, 1980 and in “Industrial Gums-Polysaccharides and their Derivatives”, edited by Roy L. Whistler, Second Edition , published by Academic Press Inc., the contents of these three publications being fully incorporated by reference.

For example, starches, guar gums, celluloses and their derivatives can be used.

Among the starches that can be used, mention may be made, for example, of macromolecules in the form of polymers comprising basic units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, can vary depending on the botanical origin of the starches.

The starch molecules used may have botanical origins from cereals or tubers. Thus, the starches can be, for example, chosen from corn, rice, cassava, tapioca, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.

Starches generally appear in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, whose elementary particle size varies from 3 to 100 microns.

Starches may optionally be hydroxyalkylated at C ₁ -C ₆ or acylated at C ₁ -C ₆ (such as acetylated). Starches may also have undergone heat treatments.

Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate, such as the products offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (acetylated gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) marketed by the company AVEBE, can also be used.

Guar gums may or may not be modified.

Unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products marketed under the name Vidogum GH 175 by the company Unipectin and under the names Meypro-Guar 50 and Jaguar C by the company Meyhall.

Nonionic modified guar gums are, for example, modified with C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, mention may be made, for example, of hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known from the prior art and can be prepared, for example, by reacting the corresponding alkene oxides such as propylene oxides, with guar gum to obtain a guar gum modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

The degree of hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on guar gum, can, for example, range from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such non-ionic guar gums optionally modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are marketed, for example, under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60, Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie (Meyhall) or under the name Galactasol 4H 4FD2 by the company Aqualon.

Among celluloses and cellulose derivatives, such as cellulose modified by hydroxyalkyl groups, we use, for example, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, as well as hydrophobized hydroxypropylmethylcellulose. We can cite the products marketed under the names Klucel EF, Klucel H, Klucel LHF, Klucel MF and Klucel G by the company Aqualon.

(vii) The fatty alcohols are, for example, chosen from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol.

In addition, the thickener (e) can be chosen from (viii) AMPS (co)polymers.

AMPS (co)polymer means a water-soluble or water-dispersible, cross-linked or non-cross-linked homopolymer of acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer, or a copolymer of AMPS monomer and at least one comonomer.

Thus, the AMPS (co)polymer may be a water-soluble or water-dispersible, crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) monomer.

The AMPS (co)polymer can preferably be completely neutralized or almost completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

AMPS (co)polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

When the AMPS polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

As crosslinking agents, mention may be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, diallyl ether of dipropylene glycol, diallyl ethers of polyglycol, divinyl ether of triethylene glycol, diallyl ether of hydroquinone, ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allylic ethers of sugar series alcohols, or other allylic or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, as well as allylic esters of phosphoric and/or vinylphosphonic acid derivatives or mixtures of these compounds.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA). The crosslinking rate generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The AMPS polymers according to the present invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible. In this case, they are:

either

“homopolymers” polymerized from only AMPS monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents such as those defined above;

either

“copolymers” polymerized from AMPS and one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above.

When said copolymers are polymerized from hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may not contain any fatty chain and are preferably present in small quantities. For the purposes of the present invention, the term “fatty chain” means any hydrocarbon chain containing at least 7 carbon atoms.

Thus, the AMPS polymer can be chosen from the group consisting of:

(i) AMPS homopolymers, crosslinked or not;

(ii) crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers obtained from AMPS and one or more hydrophilic ethylenically unsaturated or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain and

(iii) mixtures of the latter.

The term "water-soluble or water-dispersible" means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a mass concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, it is that is to say a solution having a maximum light transmission value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably at least 70 %.

The “homopolymers” according to the present invention are preferably crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be prepared according to a preparation process comprising the following steps:

(a) the monomer such as AMPS in free form is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of tert-butanol or water and tert-butanol;

(b) the solution or dispersion of the monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized by one or more mineral or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer ranging from 90% to 100%;

(c) the crosslinking monomer(s) is(are) added to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b) and

(d) standard free radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature ranging from 10 to 150°C; the polymer precipitates in the solution or dispersion based on tert-butanol.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers according to the present invention can be polymerized from water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.

Water-soluble comonomers can be ionic or non-ionic.

Among the ionic water-soluble comonomers, the following compounds and their salts may be cited by way of example:

(meth)acrylic acid,

styrene sulfonic acid,

vinylsulfonic acid and (meth)allylsulfonic acid,

vinylphosphonic acid,

maleic acid,

itaconic acid,

crotonic acid,

the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (A) below:

in which :

R ₁ is H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;

X ₁ is selected from:

alkyl ethers of the -OR ₂ type, R ₂ being a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted by at least one sulfonic group (-SO ₃ -) and/or sulfate (-SO ₄ -) and/or phosphate (-PO ₄ H ₂ -).

Among the non-ionic water-soluble comonomers, we can cite by way of example:

(meth)acrylamide,

N-vinylacetamide and N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide,

N-vinylformamide and N-methyl-N-vinylformamide,

maleic anhydride,

vinylamine,

N-vinyllactams comprising a cyclic alkyl group containing 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as n-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,

vinyl alcohol of formula CH ₂ =CHOH,

the water-soluble vinyl monomers of formula (B) below:

in which :

R ₁₅ is H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;

X ₂ is selected from:

alkyl ethers of the -OR ₁₆ type in which R ₁₆ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbons, optionally substituted by a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl group (-OH); ether.

We cite, for example, glycidyl (meth)acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol or polyalkylene glycol (meth)acrylates.

Among the hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain, we can cite by way of example:

styrene and its derivatives such as 4-butylstyrene, α-methylstyrene and vinyltoluene,

vinyl acetate of formula CH ₂ ═CH-OCOCH ₃ ;

vinyl ethers of formula CH ₂ ═CHOR in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 6 carbons;

acrylonitrile,

caprolactone,

vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride,

silicone derivatives, which provide silicone polymers after polymerization, such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides,

the hydrophobic vinyl monomers of formula (C) below:

in which :

R ₂₃ is H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ or -C ₃ H ₇ ;

X ₃ is selected from:

alkyl ethers of the -OR ₂₄ type in which R ₂₄ is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

We cite, for example, methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate, cyclohexyl acrylate, isobornyl acrylate and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate.

The water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS polymers of the present invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50,000 g/mole to 10,000,000 g/mole, preferably from 80,000 g/mole to 8,000,000 g/mole and even better still. from 100,000 g/mole to 7,000,000 g/mole.

As examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS homopolymers in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of crosslinked or non-crosslinked polymers of sodium acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate, such as the polymer of the commercial product Simulgel 800 (name INCI: Sodium polyacryloyldimethyltaurate).

As examples of water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymers in accordance with the present invention, the following may be cited:

sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate crosslinked copolymers, such as the copolymer in the commercial product Sepigel 305 (INCI name: Polyacrylamide/C13-C14 Isoparaffine/Laureth-7) or the copolymer in the commercial product marketed under the brand Simulgel 600 (INCI name: Acrylamide/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Isohexadecane/Polysorbate-80) by SEPPIC;

copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide, such as the copolymer in the commercial product marketed under the name Aristoflex AVC by the company Clariant (INCI name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/V-P Copolymer) but neutralized with sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide;

copolymers of AMPS and sodium acrylate such as, for example, the AMPS/sodium acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer of the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel EG by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Sodium Acrylate/Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer Sodium (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate-80); And

copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as, for example, the AMPS/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer such as the copolymer of the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: Acrylate copolymer Hydroxyethyl/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate-60).

Thus, it may be preferable for the AMPS polymer to be chosen from the group consisting of:

a crosslinked sodium acrylamide/acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonate copolymer (sodium acrylamide/acryloyldimethyltaurate);

a copolymer of AMPS and vinylpyrrolidone or vinylformamide;

a copolymer of AMPS and sodium acrylate (sodium acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer);

a copolymer of AMPS and hydroxyethyl acrylate and

a mixture of these.

When AMPS monomers are copolymerized with hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers with a fatty chain (for example C ₆ -C ₅₀ chain), the polymer obtained is amphiphilic, that is to say it contains both a part hydrophilic and a hydrophobic part.

The amphiphilic AMPS copolymers may contain, in addition, one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers without a fatty chain, such as (meth)acrylic acids, their β-substituted alkyl derivatives or their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or polyalkylene glycols. , (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, vinylformamide, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid or maleic acid or mixtures of these compounds.

Suitable amphiphilic polymers are, for example, those obtained from AMPS and at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing at least one hydrophobic portion having from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon, better still from 6 to 18 carbon atoms and very particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.

Examples of these copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, in U.S. Patent No. 5,089,578 in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

“Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures” “Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures” - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336;

“Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering” » Formation of miscelle of random copolymers of 2-(acrylamido)-2 -sodium methylpropanesulfonate and a nonionic surfactant macromonomer in water studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules 2000, Vol. 33, No. 10-3694-3704”;

“Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior effects of salt on rheological behavior - Langmuir, 2000, Vol. 16, No. 12, 5324-5332 »;

“Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. (Amphiphilic copolymers responsive to sodium stimuli 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym.) Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem. 1999, 40(2), 220-221”.

The hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers of these particular copolymers are preferably chosen from acrylates, alkyl acrylates, acrylamides and alkylacrylamides of formula (III) below:

in which R ₁ and R ₃ , identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a substantially linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical (preferably methyl); Y denotes O or NH; R ₂ designates a hydrophobic hydrocarbon radical containing at least 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably 6 to 22 carbon atoms, better still 6 to 18 carbon atoms and very particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms; x denotes a number of moles of alkylene oxide and preferably varies from 0 to 100.

The radical R ₂ is preferably chosen from substantially linear C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals (for example n-hexyl, n-octyl, n-decyl, n-hexadecyl, n-dodecyl, n-octadecyl) or the radicals branched or cyclic C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyls (for example cyclododecane (C ₁₂ ) or adamantane (C ₁₀ )) perfluorinated C ₆ -C ₁₈ alkyl radicals (for example, the group of formula -(CH ₂ ) ₂ -( CF ₂ ) ₉ -CF ₃ ); the cholesteryl radical (C ₂₇ ) or a cholesterol ester residue such as the cholesteryl oxyhexanoate group; polycyclic aromatic groups such as naphthalene or pyrene. Substantially linear alkyl radicals are among these radicals, the most preferred, preferably the n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl or n-octadecyl radical, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the monomer of formula (III) contains at least one alkylene oxide unit (x≥1), preferably several alkylene oxide units (x>1) constituting a chain polyoxyalkylenated. The polyoxyalkylene chain is preferably made up of ethylene oxide units and/or propylene oxide units, better still made up of ethylene oxide units. The number of oxyalkylenated units (or number of moles of alkylene oxide) preferably varies from 3 to 100, better still from 3 to 50 and even better still from 7 to 25.

Suitable polymers include, for example,

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked and neutralized or standardized copolymers containing 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and 40 to 85% by weight of (C ₈ -C ₁₆ )alkyl(meth)acrylamide or (C ₈ -C ₁₆₎ units )(meth)alkyl acrylate, relative to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A-750 899; And

- terpolymers containing from 10 to 90 mole % of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mole % of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mole % of n-(C ₆ -C ₁₈ )alkylacrylamide units, relative to to polymer, such as those described in the American patent.

Suitable amphiphilic polymers include, for example,

- copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and n-dodecyl, n-hexadecyl and/or n-octadecyl methacrylate, and

- copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, non-crosslinked and crosslinked, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

Preferably, the copolymers consist of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) units of formula (IV) following:

in which X+ is a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth metal cation or the ammonium ion, and units of formula (V) following:

in which x designates an integer ranging from 3 to 100, preferably from 3 to 50, better still from 7 to 25; R ₁ has the same meaning as that indicated above in formula (I) and R ₄ designates a substantially linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, preferably a C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ alkyl.

Particularly preferred amphiphilic polymers of this type are those for which x = 25, R ₁ denotes methyl and R ₄ represents n-dodecyl; they are described in Morishima's articles mentioned above. Other preferred polymers are those for which x=8 or 25, R ₁ denotes methyl and R ₄ represents n-hexadecyl (C ₁₆ ), n-octadecyl (C ₁₈ ) or n-dodecyl (C ₁₂ ) or mixtures thereof.

Polymers for which X ⁺ denotes sodium or ammonium are preferred.

The preferred amphiphilic polymers used in the composition according to the present invention can be obtained according to conventional radical polymerization methods in the presence of one or more initiators such as, for example, azobisisobutyronitrile (AIBN), azobisdimethylvaleronitrile, 2 ,2- azobis[2-amidinopropane] hydrochloride (ABAH), organic peroxides such as dilauryl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide, tert-butyl hydroperoxide, etc., peroxidized inorganic compounds such as dilauryl persulfate potassium or ammonium or H ₂ O ₂ , possibly in the presence of reducing agents.

These amphiphilic polymers are preferably obtained by radical polymerization in a tert-butanol medium from which they precipitate. Thanks to precipitation polymerization in tert-butanol, it is possible to obtain a particularly favorable particle size distribution of the polymer particles.

The reaction can be carried out at a temperature between 0 and 150ºC, preferably between 10 and 100ºC, either at atmospheric pressure or under reduced pressure. It can also be carried out under an inert atmosphere, preferably under nitrogen.

According to this method, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid (AMPS) or one of its sodium or ammonium salts can be polymerized with a (meth)acrylic acid ester and

a C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ oxyethylenated alcohol with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-080 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₁ oxyethylenated alcohol with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-080 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₁ oxyethylenated alcohol with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® UD-070 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ oxyethylenated alcohol with 7 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-070 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ oxyethylenated alcohol with 9 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-090 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ oxyethylenated alcohol with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® LA-110 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ oxyethylenated alcohol with 8 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-080 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ oxyethylenated alcohol with 15 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-150 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ oxyethylenated alcohol with 11 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-110 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ oxyethylenated alcohol with 20 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-200 from the company CLARIANT),

a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ oxyethylenated alcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide (GENAPOL® T-250 from the company CLARIANT),

of a C ₁₈ -C ₂₂ oxyethylenated alcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide and/or of a C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ oxyethylenated alcohol with 25 moles of ethylene oxide.

The concentration in mole % of the units of formula (IV) and of the units of formula (V) in the polymers according to the present invention varies depending on the desired cosmetic application and the rheological properties sought for the formulation. It can vary between 0.1 and 99.9% in moles.

Preferably, for the most hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula (IV) or (V) varies from 50.1 to 99.9%, better still from 70 to 95%, and even better still from 80 to 99.9%. 90%.

Preferably, for poorly hydrophobic polymers, the molar proportion of units of formula (IV) or (V) varies from 0.1 to 50%, better still from 5 to 25%, and even better still from 10 to 20%.

The distribution of monomers in the polymers of the present invention can be, for example, alternating, sequenced (including multiblock) or random.

As hydrophobic modified polymers of this type, mention may in particular be made of the copolymer of AMPS and of C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ ethoxylated alkyl methacrylate (non-crosslinked copolymer obtained from Genapol LA-070 and AMPS) ( CTFA name: Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Laureth-7 Methacrylate Copolymer) marketed under the name Aristoflex LNC by the company Clariant, and the copolymer of AMPS and ethoxylated stearyl methacrylate (25 EO) (copolymer crosslinked with triacrylate obtained from Genapol trimethylolpropane T-250 and AMPS) (CTFA name: Crossed polemer Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Steareth-25 Methacrylate) marketed under the name Aristoflex HMS by the company Clariant.

It is preferable that the thickener (e) is chosen from the polysaccharide, the AMPS (co)polymer and a mixture thereof.

It is even better that the thickener (e) is chosen from xanthan gum, amphiphilic AMPS copolymers such as ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate crosspolymer, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.05% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0. 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 10% by weight or less, preferably 5% by weight or less and, more preferably, 1% by weight or less. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the thickener(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight and, better still, from 0.1% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Powder]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (f) at least one powder. Two or more powders can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of powder or a combination of different types of powders can be used.

According to the present invention, the powder (f) is insoluble in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “insoluble” powder is understood to mean a powder whose solubility in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium such as water at 25°C is less than 1% by weight, preferably less than 0.1%. by weight and, better still, less than 0.01% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder, and preferably without solubility.

The powder (f) is in the form of one or more particles.

The powder diameter (f) is not limited. The average particle size of the powder (f) is preferably 10 nm or more, more preferably 50 nm or more, and more preferably 100 nm or more, and is preferably 1000 µm or less, more preferably 500 µm or less, and even better 300 µm or less. Thus, the powder (f) can have an average particle size of 10 nm to 1000 µm, preferably 50 nm to 500 µm and, better still, 100 nm to 300 µm.

It is preferable that the average particle size of the powder (f) is 0.1 µm or more, more preferably 0.3 µm or more, and even more preferably 0.5 µm or more.

It is preferable that the average particle size of the powder (f) is 15 µm or less, more preferably 12 µm or less, and even more preferably 10 µm or less.

The average particle size may be a number average particle size that can be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.

The powder (f) is preferably in the form of a solid.

The powder form (f) is not limited. The powder (f) can be in the form of a sphere, a plate, etc. The powder (f) can be hollow or porous.

The powder (f) can be chosen from pigments, fillers and their mixtures.

(Pigment)

By “pigments”, we mean white or colored and mineral or organic particles insoluble in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium and intended to color and/or opacify the film obtained.

The pigments preferably have an absorption ranging from 380 to 780 nm, and in at least one embodiment, an absorption with a maximum in this absorption range.

The pigments may be organic pigments. As used herein, the term "organic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment can be chosen, for example, from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalene .

The at least one organic pigment may be chosen from, for example, carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, pigments blues codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 4 7000 and 47005, green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370 and 71105, red pigments codified in the Color Index under the CI references 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45 410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470, as well as pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described, for example, in French patent no. 2,679,771.

These pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments such as described, for example, in European patent No. 1,184,426. These composite pigments can consist, for example, of particles comprising an inorganic core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.

Other examples include pigment pastes of organic pigments such as the products marketed by the company Hoechst under the names: Jaune Cosményl IOG: Pigment Jaune 3 (CI 11710); Cosmenyl G yellow: Pigment Yellow 1 (CI 11680); Orange Cosményl GR: Pigment Orange 43 (CI 71105); Cosményl Red R'': Pigment Red 4 (CI 12085); Carmine Cosményl FB: Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490); Violet Cosményl RL: Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319); Cosményl Blue A2R: Blue pigment 15.1 (CI 74160); Green Cosményl GG: Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260) and Black Cosményl R: Pigment Black 7 (CI 77266).

The at least one pigment can also be chosen from lacquers. As used herein, the term "lacquer" refers to insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the resulting complex or compound remaining insoluble during use.

Inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed may include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.

Non-limiting examples of organic dyes include cochineal carmine and products known by the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985) ), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053) and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

An additional non-limiting example of a lacquer is the product known under the following name: D&C Rouge 7 (IC 15 850:1).

The at least one pigment may also be a special effect pigment. As used herein, the term "special effect pigments" refers to pigments that generally create a non-uniform colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vibrancy and/or a certain lightness) which evolves depending on the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angle, etc.). They thus contrast with white or colored pigments which offer a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent shade.

There are two types of special effect pigments: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic and thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as pearlescent and glitter.

The at least one pigment can also be chosen from pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), and holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek).

Special effect pigments may also include fluorescent pigments, whether daylight fluorescent or ultraviolet fluorescing, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments and thermochromic pigments.

The pigment may also be an inorganic pigment, in a preferred embodiment. As used herein, the term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that meets the definition of Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Preferably, the inorganic pigments comprise at least one inorganic material. Non-limiting examples of inorganic pigments useful in the present invention include metal oxides, in particular transition metal oxides, such as zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, iron oxides, zinc oxides, oxides of chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium dioxide. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta ₂ O ₅ , Ti ₃ O ₅ , Ti ₂ O ₃ , TiO and ZrO ₂ mixed with TiO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , Nb ₂ O ₅ , CeO ₂ and ZnS.

The pigment may also be a pearl pigment.

By “pearl pigments”, which can also be called “pearl pigments” or “pearly pigments”, we mean colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or synthesized alternatively and which have a color effect by optical interference.

The pearl pigment may have a particle size of 15 µm or less, preferably 12 µm or less and, more preferably, 10 µm or less and/or may have a colored cast.

It may be preferable for the pearl pigment to have a particle size of 1 µm or more, preferably 3 µm or more, and more preferably 5 µm or more.

The particle size here can be expressed as volumetric average diameter (D[0.5]).

Pearl pigment can have a highlight with color such as white, blue, yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and copper.

It may be preferable if the pearl pigment can exhibit a white color. For example, pearl pigment may show a white color on a white background.

It may also be preferable if the pearl pigment has a blue cast. For example, pearl pigment may show a blue cast on a black background. Here, the term "blue" refers to visible light with a wavelength of about 450 to about 495 nm.

Pearl pigment with a blue sheen can contribute to anti-yellowing. It can therefore be useful for covering color imperfections on keratin material, such as spots on the skin.

The pearl pigment with limited particle size and colored reflection can contribute to the correction of the color of a keratin material such as the skin by mixing the colored reflection with the original color of the keratin material, and with the natural appearance. It should be noted that the use of conventional pearl pigments with a particle size greater than 15 µm may not be able to sufficiently cover the keratin material, and cannot provide sufficient shine but provides a shiny appearance and an unnatural finish.

Pearl pigment can have any shape. For example, it is possible to use a pearl pigment in plate form with an aspect ratio of at least 5, preferably greater than 10, more preferably greater than 20, and even more preferably greater than 50. The factor shape can be determined by the average thickness and the average length according to the following formula: form factor = length/thickness.

If a plate-shaped particle is used for the pearl pigment, it is preferable that the plate-shaped particle has a length of 15 µm or less, preferably 12 µm or less, and more preferably 10 µm or less .

As an example of pearl pigment, we can cite nacres such as a mica covered with titanium (oxide) or bismuth oxychloride, and a mica covered with titanium (oxide) and iron oxide(s). , a mica coated with titanium (oxide) and chromium oxide(s), and mixtures thereof. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

It may be preferable that the pearl pigment comprises mica and a metal oxide, preferably titanium oxide and/or tin oxide.

Again, as examples of pearl pigment, we can also cite particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

(Charge)

By “charge”, we mean a non-colored particle, solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in a physiologically acceptable volatile medium, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature above room temperature. Of mineral or organic nature, the fillers make it possible to confer firmness to the composition according to the present invention and/or softness and homogeneity to the makeup which can be formed by the composition.

The filler can be chosen from mineral and organic fillers. When the fillers are organic fillers, they are polymeric organic fillers. The filler can be particles of any shape, for example, platelet, spherical and oblong, regardless of their crystallographic shape (e.g. lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic).

The fillers usable in the composition according to the present invention may consist of various inorganic and/or organic materials, and may include, but are not limited to, the following elements: titanium dioxide; talc; natural or synthetic mica; alumina; aluminosilicate; calcium sodium borosilicate; calcium aluminum borosilicate; silica (or silicon dioxide); kaolin or other insoluble silicates such as clays; polyamide powders (Nylon®), poly-β-alanine and polyethylene powders; tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon®), powdered starch; boron nitride; acrylic acid polymer powders; silicone resin microbeads such as, for example, “Tospearls®” from the company Toshiba; bismuth oxychlorides; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; hydroxyapatite; hollow silica microspheres such as “Silica Beads SB 700®” and “Silica Beads SB 700®” from the company Maprecos, “Sunspheres H-33®” and “Sunspheres H-51®” from the company Asahi Glass; acrylic polymer microspheres such as those in crosslinked acrylate copolymer “Polytrap 6603®” from the company RP.

Scherrer and those in polymethyl methacrylate “Micropearl M100®” from the company SEPPIC; polyurea powders; polyurethane powders such as the copolymer powder of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone marketed under the name “Plastic Powder D-400®” by the company Toshiki; glass or ceramic microcapsules; microcapsules of polymers or copolymers of acrylate or methyl methacrylate, or even copolymers of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile such as, for example, “Expancel®” from the company Expancel; elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders such as those marketed under the name “KSP100®” by the company Shinetsu Chemical; porous cellulose beads such as those sold under the name Cellulose Beads USF® by the Daito Kasei company and mixtures thereof.

By way of example, quartz, tridymite, cristobalite, keatite, coesite and stishovite can be cited as crystalline silicas. Microcrystalline silicas are, for example, diatomite.

Usable non-crystalline forms include vitreous silica and other types of amorphous silicas such as colloidal silicas, silica gels, precipitated silicas and fumed silicas, e.g., aerosils, and fumed silicas. A porous silica such as an airgel (silica silylate) is preferable.

In one embodiment of the present invention, the powder may comprise at least one inorganic material chosen from the group consisting of mica, synthetic mica, talc, sericite, boron nitride, glass, calcium carbonate , barium sulfate, titanium oxide, hydroxyapatite, silica, silicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, zinc oxide, magnesium sulfate, magnesium carbonate, magnesium trisilicate , aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, calcium silicate, calcium phosphate, magnesium oxide, bismuth oxychloride, kaolin, hydrotalcite, clay mineral, synthetic clay, iron oxide and their mixtures.

In another embodiment of the present invention, the powder may comprise at least one organic material chosen from the group consisting of polyurea, melamine-formaldehyde condensate, urea-formaldehyde condensate, aminoplast, polyurethane, polyacrylate, polyphosphate, polystyrene, polyester, polyamide, polyolefin, polysaccharide, silicone, silicone resin, protein, modified cellulose and gum.

It is preferable that the powder (f) comprises at least one powder chosen from the group consisting of boron nitride, glass (for example, sodium borosilicate, calcium and sodium borosilicate, calcium borosilicate and d aluminum), titanium dioxide (and) mica, and a mixture of these.

If the powder (f) comprises boron nitride, it may have a refractive index of 1.6 or more, preferably between 1.6 and 2.2. In a preferred embodiment, the powder (f) comprising boron nitride may have an average particle size of between 1 µm and 10 µm, and in particular between 1 µm and 6 µm.

As examples of commercial boron nitride products, we can cite the following products: PUHP3008 from Saint Gobains Ceramics (average particle size 6 µm), PUHP1030L from Saint Gobains Ceramics (average particle size 3 µm), Softouch BN CC6058 powder from Momentive Performance Materials (average particle size 5-15 µm), or mixtures thereof.

If the powder (f) includes glass such as sodium borosilicate, calcium sodium borosilicate, aluminum calcium borosilicate, it may be in the form of a microsphere (hollow particle).

Examples of commercial glass microsphere products useful in the present invention include hollow calcium aluminum borosilicate microspheres (commercially available from Presperse Inc. under the trade name LUXSIL®), sodium borosilicate particles (commercially available from PQ Corporation under the trade name Q-CEL 570), and hollow calcium/sodium borosilicate microspheres (commercially available from 3M under the trade names ES 22 and 1K), microspheres of calcium/sodium borosilicate (commercially available from 3M under the product trade name Scotchlite™ K20).

If the powder (f) includes titanium dioxide (and) mica, it may be a pearl pigment (pearl) or a pearl pigment. In other words, the titanium dioxide (and) the mica may be mica coated with at least titanium dioxide.

As examples of titanium dioxide (and) mica, we can cite Ronaflair Balance Red/Blue/Gold/Green, and Timiron Silk Blue/Green/Red/Gold marketed by the company Merck, Sunshine Soft Fine Gold /Red/Violet/Blue/Green marketed by the company Sun Chemical, Helios R10Y/R/B/G marketed by the company Topy, and Flamenco Summit Aqua series such as FLAMENCO SUMMIT RED R30D, FLAMENCO SUMMIT BLUE B30DC marketed by the company BASF.

The amount of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more and, more preferably, 1% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less and, more preferably, 5% by weight or less, e.g. relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of (f) powder(s) in the composition according to the present invention can be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and, better still, from 1%. at 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Water]

The composition according to the present invention comprises (g) water.

The amount (g) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 45% by weight or more, preferably 50% by weight or more and, more preferably, 55% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition. .

On the other hand, the quantity (g) of water in the composition according to the present invention may be 90% by weight or less, preferably 85% by weight or less and, more preferably, 80% by weight or less. less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The quantity (g) of water in the composition according to the present invention can range from 45 to 90% by weight, preferably from 50 to 85% by weight, better still from 55 to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition.

[Twinned surfactants]

The composition according to the present invention may comprise (h) at least one twinned surfactant. Only one type of twin surfactant may be used, but two or more different types of twin surfactants may be used in combination.

The (h) twin surfactant or dimer surfactants used in the present invention are well known. For a detailed description of the different chemical structures and their physicochemical properties, we can refer to the following publications:

Milton J. Rosen, (Gemini Surfactants, Properties of surfactant molecules with two hydrophilic groups and two hydrophobic groups) Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, Vol. 113, December 1998, pages 49-55 and

Milton J. Rosen, Recent Developments in Gemini Surfactants, Allured's Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine, July 2001, vol. 116, No. 7, pages 67-70. 67-70.

The (h) paired surfactant can be chosen from compounds with two or more fatty amide groups (it may be referred to below as “amide compound”). The amide compound can be represented by the following formula (A):

(HAS)

Or

Y' independently denotes a carboxylic acid group or an alkaline salt of a carboxylic acid group such as a sodium salt of a carboxylic acid group,

j1, k1, j2 and k2 denote an integer such that (j1, k1, j2, k2) = any of (2,0,2,0), (2,0,0,2), (0 ,2,2,0) and (0,2,0,2), and

l designates an integer from 6 to 16, preferably from 8 to 14 and, better still, from 10 to 12.

Preferably, in formula (A), L designates an integer from 8 to 12, j1 = j2 = 0, and k1=k2 = 2.

Better yet, in formula (A), Y' is -COONa, j1 = j2 = 0, k1 = k2 = 2 and L = 10.

The amide compound can be prepared, for example, by reacting a long-chain N-acyl amino acid anhydride with a basic amino acid, such as lysine, in water and/or a mixed amide solvent. water and organic solvent(s), or in inert organic solvent(s) such as tetrahydrofuran, benzene, toluene, xylene, tetrachloromethane, chloroform, acetone or the like, or without any solvent , at -5°C to 200°C, preferably 5°C to 100°C and, better still, from 0°C to 60°C.

As an amide compound, mention may be made of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, sodium dimyristoylglutamide lysine and sodium distearoylglutamide lysine.

Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium is particularly preferable. Dilauramidoglutamide lysine sodium is marketed under the names Pellicer L-10 and L-30 by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Col., Ltd. as an aqueous solution at a concentration of 29% by weight based on the total weight of the aqueous solution or as Pellicer LB-30G by Asahi Kasei Fine Chem. Co., Ltd. as a mixture of sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine and butylene glycol.

In another embodiment, the (h) geminated surfactants can also correspond to the following formula (I):

Or:

R ₁ and R ₃ represent, independently of each other, an alkyl radical, comprising from 1 to 25 carbon atoms;

R ₂ represents a spacer group consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain containing 1 to 12 carbon atoms;

X and Y represent, independently of each other, a group a -(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a -(C ₃ H ₆ O) _b Z, in which:

Z represents a hydrogen atom or the radical -CH ₂ -COOM, -SO ₃ M, -P(O)(OM) ₂ , -C ₂ H ₄ -SO ₃ M, -C ₃ H ₆ -SO ₃ M or -CH ₂ (CHOH) ₄ CH ₂ OH, where M represents H or an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion or an ammonium or alkanolammonium ion;

a varies from 0 to 15, b varies from 0 to 10, and the sum of a+b varies from 1 to 25 and

n varies from 1 to 10.

The twin surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the groups R ₁ -CO- and R ₃ -CO- comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably represents a coconut fatty acid residue (comprising mainly lauric acid and myristic acid).

Furthermore, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and ba has an average value which varies from 10 to 20 and is preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the group --SO ₃ M, M preferably being an alkaline metal ion such as sodium ion.

The spacer R ₂ advantageously consists of a linear C ₁ -C ₃ alkylene chain and preferably of an ethylene chain (CH ₂ CH ₂ ). Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1.

A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate PEG-15, having the following structure:

it being understood that PEG represents the group CH ₂ CH ₂ O and that "cocoyl" represents the fatty acid residue of coconut.

This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.

Preferably, the twin surfactant according to the present invention can be used in mixture with other surfactants, and, in particular, in mixture with (a) a C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid ester (preferably C ₁₄ - C ₂₀ ) such as a stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a diester of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid (preferably C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ such as a stearate) and citric acid and glycerol (in particular an ester of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and glyceryl monocitrate), and (c) a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol (preferably behenyl alcohol).

Advantageously, the composition according to the present invention comprises a mixture of sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate monocitrate and behenyl alcohol.

For example, the twin surfactant can be used in mixture with other surfactants in the form of products marketed by Sasol under the trade name Ceralution®, such as in particular the following products:

Ceralution® H: behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate (INCI name),

Ceralution® F: Lactylation of Sodium lauroyl and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate (INCI name), and

Céralution® C: Water, capric/caprylic triglyceride, glycerin, ceteareth-25, sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, sodium lauroyl latylate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, gum arabic, xanthan gum , phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben (INCI Name)

The paired surfactant represents 3 to 50% by weight of these mixtures. Preferably, the composition comprises, as geminal surfactant, the compound with the INCI name: Behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate and sodium PEG-15 dicocoylethylenediamine sulfate, marketed under the trade name Ceralution® H by the Sasol company.

The amount of geminated surfactant(s) in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.001% by weight or more, preferably 0.005% by weight or more and, more preferably, 0.01% by weight. weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

On the other hand, the quantity of the surfactant(s) combined in the composition according to the present invention can be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less and, better still, 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The quantity of the surfactant(s) (h) combined in the composition according to the present invention can range from 0.001% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 3% by weight and, better still, from 0.01% to 1% by weight. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

[Polyol]

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one polyol. Only one type of polyol may be used, but two or more different types of polyol may be used in combination.

The term "polyol" herein means an alcohol having two or more hydroxy groups, and does not include a saccharide or derivative thereof. The derivative of a saccharide includes a sugar alcohol which is obtained by reducing one or more carbonyl groups of a saccharide, as well as a saccharide or a sugar alcohol in which the hydrogen atom(s) in one or more groups hydroxy thereof has or have been replaced by at least one substituent such as an alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group, an alkoxy group, an acyl group or a carbonyl group.

The polyol may be a C ₂ -C ₁₂ polyol, preferably a C ₂ -C ₉ polyol, comprising at least 2 hydroxy groups, and preferably 2 to 5 hydroxy groups.

The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol can be chosen from glycerins and their derivatives and glycols and their derivatives. The polyol can be chosen from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups) and sugars such as sorbitol.

The polyol may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, such as from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition.

[Other optional ingredients]

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective quantity of other optional ingredients, previously known elsewhere in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, such as various common adjuvants, sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, preservatives, vitamins or provitamins, for example, panthenol, perfumes, plant extracts, cationic polymers, etc.

The composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one organic solvent. Thus, the organic solvent is preferably miscible with water. As an organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of C ₁ -C ₄ alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol, similar products and mixtures thereof.

The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 15 weight percent or less, preferably 10 weight percent or less, and more preferably 5 weight percent or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The water-soluble organic solvents may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on to the total weight of the composition.

[Preparation and properties]

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential ingredient(s) as explained above, and the optional ingredient(s), if necessary, as explained above.

The process and means for mixing the above essential and optional ingredients are not limited. Any conventional method and means may be used to mix the above essential and optional ingredients to prepare the composition according to the present invention. The conventional method and means include a homogenizer, for example, a turbine mixer.

[Shape]

The composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion.

The composition according to the present invention comprises dispersed fatty phases, dispersed in a continuous aqueous phase. The dispersed fatty phases can appear in the form of oil droplets in the aqueous phase. It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W gel emulsion or an O/W gel dispersion.

The O/W architecture or structure, which consists of fatty phases dispersed in an aqueous phase, has an external aqueous phase, and therefore, the composition according to the present invention with O/W architecture or structure can provide a pleasant sensation when use due to the immediate feeling of freshness that the aqueous phase can provide.

[Process and use]

It is preferable that the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition, preferably a cosmetic composition for a keratin material such as the skin and, better still, a skin peeling composition.

The composition according to the present invention can be used for a non-therapeutic process, such as a cosmetic process, for treating keratin material such as skin, hair, mucous membranes, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, by application to the keratin substance.

Thus, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating a keratin material, comprising the step of applying the composition according to the present invention to the keratin material.

The present invention may also relate to a use of the composition according to the present invention as a cosmetic product or in a cosmetic product such as care products for the skin of the body and/or the face and/or the mucous membranes and/or the scalp and/or hair and/or nails and/or eyelashes and/or eyebrows.

In other words, the composition according to the present invention can be used as such as a cosmetic product. Alternatively, the composition according to the present invention can be used as an element of a cosmetic product. For example, the composition according to the present invention can be added or combined with any other element to form a cosmetic product.

The care product can be a lotion, cream, hair tonic, conditioner, sunscreen, etc.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples, which should not, however, be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

[Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7]

The following compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 as follows:

(1) mix the ingredients in column A of Table 1 at 70-75°C to form a uniform mixture of phase A;

(2) add the ingredients of column B of Table 1 to the mixture of phase A at 75-80°C, then homogenize them to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A and B) at 70-75°C;

(3) mix the ingredients of column C of Table 1 at 70-75°C to form a phase C mixture;

(4) add the mixture of phase C to the mixture of phases A and B at 70-75°C, then homogenize them to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B and C) at 70-75°C and cool the mixture obtained at approximately 30°C; And

(5) add the ingredient from columns D and E of Table 1 to the mixture of phases A, B and C at approximately 30°C, then homogenize them to obtain a uniform mixture (phases A, B, C, D and E) at approximately 30°C, and cooling the mixture obtained to room temperature.

The numerical values for the component quantities shown in Table 1 are all based on “% by weight” as active ingredients.

Ingredient Example 1 Ex. Comp.
1 Ex. Comp.
2 Ex. Comp. 3 Ex. Comp.
4 Ex. Comp. 5 Ex. Comp. 6 Ex. Comp. 7 VS d) Polyglyceryl-2 isostearate (HLB: 8) 2 - - - 2 2 2 2 Polyglyceryl-4 caprate (HLB: 14) 1.5 - - 3.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Polyglyceryl-2 oleate (HLB: 7) - - 3.5 - - - - - Polyglyceryl-6 distearate (HLB: 9) 1.92 - 1.92 1.92 1.92 1.92 1.92 1.92 Polyglyceryl-3 beeswax (HLB: 4.5) 0.255 - 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 has) Jojoba esters 0.57 0.57 0.57 0.57 - 0.57 0.57 0.57 b) Cetyl alcohol 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 0.255 - 0.255 0.255 has) Diisopropyl sebacate 5 5 5 5 - 5 5 5 Isopropyl myristate 2.2 2.2 2.2 2.2 - 2.2 2.2 2.2 Cetyl palmitate 2 2 2 2 - 2 2 2 b) Behenyl alcohol 1 1 1 1 1 - 1 1 HAS vs) Salicylic acid 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 0.198 Phytic acid 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Lactic acid 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 3.33 B e) Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/steareth-25 methacrylate cross-polymer 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 - 0.3 Xanthan gum 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 - 0.4 D f) Boron nitride 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Calcium aluminum borosilicate 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Titanium oxide (and) mica 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 HAS Dilauramidoglutamide sodium Lysine 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 g) Water 59.102 64,777 59.102 59.102 68,872 60,357 59,802 62.502 glycerin 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Chlorphenesin 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Betaine 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Hydroxyacetophenone 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Caprylyl Glycol 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Niacinamide 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Sodium hydroxide 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 0.66 VS Pentaerythrityl Tetra-di-t-butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 E Biosaccharide Gum-2 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Ethanol 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 3 Fragrance 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Total quantity (% by weight) 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 100 Average HLB (PGFE) 9.8 - 7.6 11.9 9.8 9.8 9.8 9.8 Non-sticky feeling Very
Good Good Good Good Very
Bad Poor Good Very
Poor Soft feeling (non-greasy feeling) Very good Good Good Good Very
Bad Bad Good Very
Bad Temperature stability Very good Very
Bad Bad Bad Very
Bad Bad Very poor Good

[Ratings]

(Non-sticky feeling)

Five professional panelists evaluated the “non-sticky feel” after application of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied it to their face to rate the non-sticky feeling after application, and rated it from 1 (poor) to 5 (very good), which was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average score:

Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0

Good: From 3.9 to 3.0

Bad: 2.9 to 2.0

Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0

The results are presented in Table 1.

(Feeling of sweetness)

Five professional panelists evaluated the “soft feeling (non-greasy feeling)” when applying the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-7. Each panelist took each composition in their hands, then applied it to their face to evaluate the feeling of softness (non-greasy feeling) after application, and rated it from 1 (bad) to 5 (very good), which was then classified into the following 4 categories based on the average score:

Very good: From 5.0 to 4.0

Good: From 3.9 to 3.0

Bad: 2.9 to 2.0

Very bad: From 1.9 to 1.0

The results are presented in Table 1.

(Temperature stability)

Each of the compositions according to Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7 was poured into a glass bottle and was maintained under temperature change conditions at 4°C, 25°C, 40°C and 45°C during 2 months. Each sample was then studied for the degree of change (color, odor and pH) and evaluated according to the following criteria:

Very good: Almost the same conditions as in production.

Good: Some changes in color, odor and pH have been observed. However, no separation or appearance of creaming or crystallization was observed.

Bad: Changes in color, odor and pH were clearly observed. An appearance of separation, creaming or crystallization was clearly observed.

Very bad: Changes in color, odor and pH were clearly noted. The aspect of separation, creaming or crystallization has been remarkably noted.

The results are presented in Table 1.

As can be seen from Table 1, the composition in the form of an O/W emulsion according to the present invention (example 1) was able to provide excellent cosmetic effects in terms of non-sticky sensation, sensation of softness and stability to changes in temperature. temperature for 2 months, which could be attributed to a combination of ingredients (a) to (g) under certain conditions. Thus, the composition according to the present invention can provide, in particular, excellent touch feeling and stability for a long time even with temperature changes.

On the other hand, the composition according to comparative example 1 which does not include ingredient (d) (polyglyceryl fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue) presented stability to the lower temperature.

The composition according to Comparative Examples 2 and 3 which do not satisfy the condition that the weighted average of the HLB values of the ingredients (d) is between 8.0 and 11.5, showed stability at the lower temperature.

Comparative Example 4 which does not use ingredient (a) (oil) showed very poor cosmetic effects in terms of non-sticky feeling, smooth feeling and temperature stability.

Comparative Example 5 which does not use ingredient (b) (fatty alcohol) showed poor cosmetic effects in terms of non-sticky feeling, smooth feeling and temperature stability.

Comparative example 6 which does not use ingredient (e) (thickener) showed very poor temperature stability.

Comparative Example 7 which does not use ingredient (f) (powder) showed very poor non-sticky feeling and soft feeling.

Claims (9)

Composition, in the form of O/W emulsion, comprising:
(a) at least one oil;
(b) at least one fatty alcohol;
(c) at least one acid chosen from hydroxy acids, phytic acid and mixtures thereof;
(d) at least one polyglycerol fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue;
(e) at least one thickener;
(f) at least one powder and
(g) water;
where the HLB of (d) the polyglycerolated fatty acid ester having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue or the weighted average of the HLB values of (d) the polyglycerolated fatty acid esters having a C 6 -C 32 fatty acid residue C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid is between 8.0 and 11.5. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oil (a) is selected from the group consisting of ester oils, triglyceride oils and mixtures thereof. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, in which the quantity of oil (a) in the composition ranges from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 25% by weight and, better still, from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the fatty alcohol (b) is chosen from the group consisting of cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleic alcohol and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the hydroxy acid is chosen from alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the polyglycerol fatty acid ester (d) having a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid residue has a polyglyceryl moiety derived from 2 to 10 glycerins, preferably 2 to 8 glycerins and, better still, 2 to 6 glycerins. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the thickener (e) is chosen from polysaccharides, AMPS (co)polymers and a mixture thereof. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, in which the powder (f) is chosen from the group consisting of pigments, fillers and their mixtures. Cosmetic process for treating a keratin material comprising the step of applying the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 to the keratin material.