FR3126098A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING VITAMIN C - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising (a) from about 2 to about 20% by weight ascorbic acid; (b) di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate; (c) hydroxyacetophenone; and (d) a chelating agent; and wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Methods of treating damaged skin using cosmetic compositions are also described herein Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING VITAMIN C

FIELD OF THE INVENTION

The present disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions comprising high amounts of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), products containing the cosmetic compositions, and methods of treating skin using the cosmetic compositions.

background of the invention

The skin acts as a natural barrier between the internal and external environments and therefore plays an important role in vital biological functions such as protection against mechanical and chemical injury, microorganisms and ultraviolet damage. However, the health and appearance of the skin can deteriorate due to environmental factors, genetics, nutrition and sun exposure.

Environmental pollution conditions are rapidly worsening and becoming increasingly evident in the daily lives of consumers around the world. The damage of pollution on human skin is also increasingly evident. Human skin is also subjected to various attacks by extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation, environmental pollution, wind, heat, infrared radiation, low humidity, strong surfactants, abrasives, etc. Recent studies suggest that in addition to UV radiation, other environmental factors contribute to the development of solar lentigines, including air pollution. In the end, these factors result in visible signs of skin lesions including small brown spots on the skin, especially in the elderly.

Typical skin damage includes fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, paleness, sagging, dark circles under the eyes, puffy eyes, large pores, visible dead skin, i.e. say flaking, flaking, dryness and roughness. Consumers want to slow the progression of skin damage and reduce the effects of aging, especially on the face and around the eyes. Radiant, clear skin looks youthful and is a sign of good health and vitality. Therefore, there is an ongoing need for new and improved formulations that improve the health and appearance of the skin.

Vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant that can be used topically in dermatology to treat and prevent changes associated with photoaging, hyperpigmentation, etc. Vitamin C is very unstable and difficult to formulate and deliver to the dermis. Research is ongoing to develop stable compositions that deliver high amounts of ascorbic acid to the skin.

SUMMARY OF DISCLOSURE

This disclosure relates to cosmetic compositions which are unique from conventional cosmetic compositions in that they contain and deliver a high concentration of ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is very difficult to stabilize, and therefore poses unique formulation challenges.

The inventors have discovered that certain ingredients in specific amounts allow cosmetic compositions containing a high level of ascorbic acid to be stable.

Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory, the inventors believe that di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, hydroxyacetophenone and a chelating agent, in combination with other components of the compositions, contribute to the stability and effectiveness of compositions. Cosmetic compositions typically include:

(a) from about 2 to about 20% by weight ascorbic acid;

(b) di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate;

(c) hydroxyacetophenone; And

(d) a chelating agent; And

wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic compositions can be in the form of an emulsion, for example an oil-in-water emulsion. In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

In certain embodiments, the di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate is present at about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In one or more embodiments, the hydroxyacetophenone is present at about 0.1 to about 3% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In some embodiments, the chelating agent is selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and a mixture thereof. In one or more embodiments, the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate. In one embodiment, the chelating agent is present at a rate of approximately 0.01 to approximately 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the cosmetic composition can include one or more fatty compounds. Non-limiting examples of suitable fatty compounds can include fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty esters, oils, waxes, derivatives thereof and mixtures thereof. In various embodiments, the one or more fatty esters can be selected from ethoxylated fatty esters, sorbitan fatty esters, stearate esters, behenate esters, arachidate esters, palmitate esters, esters of fatty acids of a sugar, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, one or more fatty esters may be chosen from purcellin oil (cetearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate , isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, diisopropyl sebacate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hydroxy esters and esters of pentaerythritol, and mixtures thereof. In some embodiments, the one or more fatty compounds include isononyl isononanoate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycine soya (soybean) oil, or mixtures thereof.

In certain embodiments, the oily phase can comprise from about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic composition may include one or more polyols. In various embodiments, the one or more polyols are selected from caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexalyne glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the cosmetic composition is devoid of tocopherol.

According to another aspect of the disclosure, the cosmetic composition may include:

(a) from about 2 to about 20% by weight ascorbic acid;

(b) from about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate;

(c) from about 0.01 to about 3% by weight hydroxyacetophenone; And

(d) from about 0.01 to about 2% by weight of a chelating agent selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate; And

wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic compositions are useful for treating the skin, for example, the skin of the face and neck of a human being. Thus, the present disclosure relates to methods of treating the skin comprising applying the cosmetic composition of the present disclosure to the skin. The cosmetic compositions are further useful in methods of treating skin dryness, repairing photoaging damage to skin, and diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, dark spots, and uneven skin texture. skin. The aforementioned methods may be non-therapeutic.

detailed description of the disclosure

This disclosure relates to stable cosmetic compositions which contain high amounts of ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and methods of treating skin using the cosmetic compositions. Ascorbic acid is a natural antioxidant. It stimulates the biosynthesis of collagen, which is the protein that gives shape and firmness to the skin. As ascorbic acid leads to higher production of collagen, wrinkles in the skin are minimized. Also, ascorbic acid can diminish age spots by reversing hyperpigmentation of skin cells to some extent by inhibiting tyrosinase activity.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure typically include:

(a) from about 2 to about 20% by weight ascorbic acid;

(b) di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate;

(c) hydroxyacetophenone; And

(d) a chelating agent; And

wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Cosmetic compositions are generally formulated in the form of an emulsion. Typically, cosmetic compositions are formulated to be oil-in-water emulsions.

In one embodiment, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. For example, the amount of oil phase can be about 0.5, about 1, about 1.5, about 2, about 2.5, about 3, about 3.5, about 4, about 5, about 6, about 7, about 8, about 9, about 10 to about 10, about 11, about 12, about 13, about 14, about 14.5, about 15, about 15.5, about 16, about 16.5, about 17 , about 17.5, about 18, about 18.5, about 19, about 19.5, or about 20 weight percent, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Additionally or alternatively, the amount of oil phase can be 0.5, 1, 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10 to about 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 14.5, 15, 15.5, 16, 16.5, 17, 17.5, 18, 18.5, 19, 19.5 or 20% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the amount of oily phase can be 10% or about 10% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

As discussed above, di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, hydroxyacetophenone, and a chelating agent are believed to benefit beneficially in stabilizing the ascorbic acid in the emulsion. The aqueous phase of the cosmetic composition can include an amount of ascorbic acid. For example, a majority or substantially all of the ascorbic acid in the cosmetic composition may reside in the aqueous phase.

Suitable components, such as those listed below, may be included or excluded from cosmetic composition formulations depending on the specific combination of other components, the form of the cosmetic compositions and/or the use of the formulation ( for example, lotion, serum, gel, cream, etc.)

Ascorbic acid

The cosmetic compositions include ascorbic acid.

Ascorbic acid is pure L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C), and is typically present in the cosmetic composition in an amount of about 2% by weight to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the cosmetic compositions can include an amount of ascorbic acid ranging from about 2.0% by weight to about 20% by weight, about 2.5% by weight to about 25% by weight, about 3.5% by weight to about 20% by weight, about 4.5% by weight to about 20% by weight, about 5% by weight to about 15% by weight, about 6% by weight to about 14% by weight, about 7% by weight to about 13% by weight, or about 8% by weight to about 12% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Additionally or alternatively, the amount of ascorbic acid may be 2.0 wt% to 20 wt%, 2.5 wt% to 20 wt%, 3.5 wt% to 20 wt% , 4.5 wt% to 20 wt%, 5 wt% to 15 wt%, 6 wt% to 14 wt%, 7 wt% to 13 wt% or 8 wt% to 12% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Also, in some embodiments the cosmetic composition may include an amount of ascorbic acid that is about 20% by weight, about 19% by weight, about 18% by weight, about 17% by weight, about 16% by weight, about 15% by weight, about 14% by weight, about 13% by weight, about 12% by weight, about 11% by weight, about 10% by weight, about 9% by weight, about 8% by weight , about 7% by weight, about 6% by weight, about 5% by weight, about 4% by weight, about 3% by weight, about 2% by weight or about 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. In one embodiment, the amount of ascorbic acid can be 10% or about 10% of the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The ascorbic acid can be L-ascorbic acid, a mixture of L-ascorbic acid and R-ascorbic acid, and/or a racemic mixture. In one embodiment, the ascorbic acid comprises only L-ascorbic acid, essentially only L-ascorbic acid, and/or at least 75% by weight, at least 85% by weight, at least 90 % by weight, at least 95% by weight, or at least 99% by weight of L-ascorbic acid based on the total weight of ascorbic acid.

Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate

Cosmetic compositions include di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate.

Di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate or tetra-di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl hydroxyhydrocinnamate is a compound that belongs to the family of cinnamic acids and derivatives thereof, whose CAS number is 6683-19-8.

By way of example, mention may be made of the compound di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate sold by the company BASF under the name Tinogard ^TT® .

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.06% to 0.4% by weight and more preferably from 0.8% to 0.3% by weight of di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydroxyacetophenone

The cosmetic composition includes hydroxyacetophenone.

More particularly, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises hydroxyacetophenone or p-hydroxyacetophenone, whose CAS number is 99-93-4 and also called 1-(4-hydroxyphenyl)-ethanone.

Hydroxyacetophenone corresponds to the following formula (II):

Mention may be made of the product sold under the name ^Symsave® H by the company Symrise.

In some cases, the total amount of hydroxyacetophenone can range from about 0.1, about 0.12, about 0.13, about 0.14, about 0.15, about 0.16, about 0.17, about 0.18, about 0.19, about 0.2, about 0.21, about 0.22, about 0.23, about 0.24, about 0.25, about 0.26, about 0.27, about 0.28, about 0.29, about 0.3, about 0.35, about 0.4, about 0.45, about 0.5, about 0.55, about 0.6, about 0.65, about 0.7, about 0.75, about 0.8, about 0.85, about 0.9, about 0.95, about 1.2, about 1.4, about 1.5 to about 1.5, about 1.6, about 1.65, about 1.7, about 1.75, about 1.8, about 1.85, about 1.9, about 1.95, about 2, about 2.1, about 2, 2, about 2.3, about 2.5, about 2.5, about 2.6, about 2.7, about 2.8, about 2.9, or about 3% by weight, including ranges and sub -intermediate ranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additionally or alternatively, the total amount of hydroxyacetophenone can be 0.1, 0.12, 0.13, 0.14, 0.15, 0.16, 0.17, 0.18, 0.19, 0.2, 0.21, 0.22, 0.23, 0.24, 0.25, 0.26, 0.27, 0.28, 0.29, 0.3, 0.35, 0, 4, 0.45, 0.5, 0.55, 0.6, 0.65, 0.7, 0.75, 0.8, 0.85, 0.9, 0.95, 1.2, 1.4, 1.5 to about 1.5, 1.6, 1.65, 1.7, 1.75, 1.8, 1.85, 1.9, 1.95, 2, 2.1 , 2.2, 2.3, 2.5, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8, 2.9 or 3% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Chelating agents

The cosmetic compositions include one or more chelating agents. For example, the one or more chelating agents can include or be selected from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and a mixture thereof. In one instance, the one or more chelating agents include trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and optionally one or more additional chelating agents. In another case, the one or more chelating agents include only trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate or essentially only trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate.

By way of example, mention may be made of the trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate compound sold under the name ^Natrlquest® E30 by the company Innospec Active Chemicals (at 37% by weight in water), or the compound sold under the name Octaquest E30 ^® by Octel Performance Chemicals.

The total quantity of chelating agents present in the cosmetic composition can be, for example, approximately 0.01, approximately 0.02, approximately 0.03, approximately 0.04, approximately 0.05, approximately 0.06, approximately 0 .07, about 0.08, about 0.09, about 0.1, about 0.15, about 0.2, about 0.25, about 0.3, about 0.35, about 0.4, about 0 .45, about 0.5 to about 0.5, about 0.52, about 0.54, about 0.56, about 0.58, about 0.6, about 0.62, about 0.64, about 0 .66, about 0.68, about 0.7, about 0.75, about 0.80, about 0.85, about 0.9, about 0.95, or about 1% by weight; including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Additionally or alternatively, the total amount of hydroxyacetophenone can be 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.15, 0.2, 0.25, 0.3, 0.35, 0.4, 0.45, 0.5 to 0.5, 0.52, 0.54, 0, 56, 0.58, 0.6, 0.62, 0.64, 0.66, 0.68, 0.7, 0.75, 0.80, about 0.85, 0.9, 0.95 , or 1% by weight; including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of chemical chelating agents include aminotrimethyl phosphonic acid, ß-alanine diacetic acid, citric acid, cyclodextrin, cyclohexanediamine tetraacetic acid, diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonic acid, diethanolamine N-acetic acid, ethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (EDTA or YH ₄ ) and its sodium (YH ₃ Na, Y ₂ H ₂ Na ₂ , YHNa ₃ and YNa ₄ ), potassium (YH ₃ K, Y ₂ H ₃ K ₃ and YK ₄ ), disodium and diammonium calcium salts and its salts with triethanolamine (TEA-EDTA), etidronic acid, galactanic acid, hydroxyethylethylenediamine tetraacetic acid (HEDTA) and its trisodium salt, gluconic acid, glucuronic acid, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its trisodium salt, pentetic acid, phytic acid, ribonic acid , diammonium citrate, disodium azacycloheptane diphosphonate, disodium pyrophosphate, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, methyl cyclodextrin, pentapotassium triphosphate, pentasodium aminotrimethylene phosphonate, pentasodium ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate, pentasodium pentetate, pentasodium triphosphate, potassium citrate, potassium EDTMP, sodium EDTMP, sodium chitosan methylene phosphonate, sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium metaphosphate, potassium polyphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate, sodium dihydroxyethylglycinate, potassium gluconate, sodium gluconate, sodium glucopeptate, sodium glycereth-1 polyphosphate, tetrapotassium pyrophosphate, triethanolamine polyphosphate (TEA), tetrasodium pyrophosphate, trisodium phosphate, potassium triphosphonomethylamine oxide, sodium metasilicate, sodium phytate, sodium polydimethylglycinophenolsulfonate, tetrahydroxyethyl ethylenediamine, tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, tetrapotassium etidronate, tetrasodium etidronate, tetrasodium iminodisuccinate , trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, N,N-diacetic ethanolamine, disodium acetate, dimercaprol, deferoxamine, Zylox, and/or the iron chelating agent disclosed and claimed in international patent application WO 94/61338. Examples of biological chelating agents include metallothionein, transferrin, calmodulin and sodium chitosan methylene phosphonate.

The cosmetic composition includes trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate typically in an amount of about 0.01 to about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The total amount of chelating agents can vary but is typically between about 0.01 and about 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Fatty compounds

The cosmetic composition may include one or more fatty compounds, which may be liquid or solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25° C., 1 atm). Fatty compounds are typically organic compounds that are not soluble in water at normal temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (750 mmHg) (solubility less than 10%). In some cases, the water solubility may be less than 5%, 1% or 0.1%.

The total amount of fatty compounds in the compositions can vary from, for example, about 0.5 to about 20% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight , about 0.5 to 6% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 15% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, or about 1 to about 6% by weight, about 1.5 to about 25% by weight, about 1.5 to about 20% by weight, about 1.5 to about 15% by weight, about 1.5 to about 10% by weight, about 1.5 to about 8% by weight or about 1.5 to about 6% by weight, from about 2 to about 25% by weight, about 2 to about 20% by weight, about 2 to about 15% by weight, about 2 to about 10% by weight, about 2 to about 8% by weight or about 2 to about 6% by weight, about 2.5 to about 25% by weight, about 2.5 to about 20% by weight, about 2.5 to about 15% by weight, about 2.5 to about 10% by weight, about 2.5 to about 8% by weight, or about 2.5 to about 6 wt%, about 3 to about 25 wt%, about 3 to about 20 wt%, about 3 to about 15 wt%, about 3 to about 10 wt%, about 3 to about 8% by weight, or about 3 to about 6% by weight, about 3.5 to about 25% by weight, about 3.5 to about 20% by weight, about 3.5 to about 15% by weight, about 3.5 to about 10% by weight, about 3.5 to about 8% by weight, or about 3.5 to about 6% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the composition. Additionally, or alternatively, the total amount of fatty compounds may be 0.5 to 20% by weight, 0.5 to 15% by weight, 0.5 to 10% by weight, 0.5 to 8% by weight, 0.5 to 6 wt%, 1 to 25 wt%, 1 to 20 wt%, 1 to 15 wt%, 1 to 10 wt%, 1 to 8 wt%, or 1 to 6% by weight, 1.5 to 25% by weight, 1.5 to 20% by weight, 1.5 to 15% by weight, 1.5 to 10% by weight, 1.5 to 8% by weight , or 1.5 to 6% by weight, 2 to 25% by weight, 2 to 20% by weight, 2 to 15% by weight, 2 to 10% by weight, 2 to 8% by weight or 2 to 6 wt%, 2.5 to 25 wt%, 2.5 to 20 wt%, 2.5 to 15 wt%, 2.5 to 10 wt%, 2.5 to 8 wt% or 2.5 to 6% by weight, 3 to 25% by weight, 3 to 20% by weight, 3 to 15% by weight, 3 to 10% by weight, 3 to 8% by weight or 3 to 6% by weight, from 3.5 to 25% by weight, 3.5 to 20% by weight, 3.5 to 15% by weight, 3.5 to 10% by weight, 3.5 to 8% by weight, or 3 .5 to 6% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-limiting examples of fatty compounds of the cosmetic composition include or may be selected from oils, mineral oil, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acid derivatives (for example, alkoxylated fatty acids or polyethylene esters fatty acid glycol or fatty acid propylene glycol esters or fatty acid butylene glycol esters or fatty acid neopentyl glycol esters or fatty acid polyglycerol/glycerol esters or glycol diesters or fatty acid diesters ethylene glycol and fatty acids or esters of fatty acids and fatty alcohols, esters of short-chain alcohols and fatty acids), glyceryl esters (glycerol esters), alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, fatty acid esters of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters of alkoxylated fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol esters, hydroxy fatty acids substituted compounds, waxes, triglyceride compounds, lanolin, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the one or more fatty compounds may include or be selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and/or fatty alcohol esters (e.g., cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate , myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate and stearyl stearate (the mixture of which is called "cetyl esters"). Additionally or alternatively, the one or more fatty compounds may include or be selected from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty alcohol derivatives, fatty acids, fatty acid derivatives, fatty esters, fatty ethers, oils, waxes, etc. In one case, the one or more fatty compounds are linear, branched and/or cyclic hydrocarbons, such as C ₆ -C ₁₆ cyclic alkanes, hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins, for example isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane . In addition, linear or branched hydrocarbons can be composed only of carbon and hydrogen atoms of mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin having more than 16 carbon atoms, such as volatile or non-volatile liquid paraffins, petroleum jelly , liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene and squalane.

fatty alcohols

The one or more fatty compounds can be glycerolated and/or oxyalkylenated, can include from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohols useful herein include those having from about 8 to about 30 carbon atoms, from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, and from about 14 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols can be straight or branched chain alcohols and can be saturated or unsaturated. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include decyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linalool, oleyl alcohol, cis-4-t-butylcyclohexanol, alcohol myricylic and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the fatty alcohols include at least one of the following or may be selected from myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol and a mixture thereof.

Saturated liquid fatty alcohols can be branched and optionally contain in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. In some cases, however, fatty alcohols are acyclic. Non-limiting examples of saturated liquid fatty alcohols include octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol.

Unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols can include in their structure at least one double or triple bond. For example, fatty alcohols can include multiple double bonds (such as 2 or 3 double bonds), which can be conjugated or unconjugated. Unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched and can be acyclic or include in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. The liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols can include or be selected from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenic alcohol and undecylenic alcohol.

Non-limiting examples of solid fatty alcohols include linear or branched alcohols, saturated or unsaturated, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture, cetyl stearyl alcohol.

Fatty esters

The fatty compounds of the cosmetic composition can be liquid or solid fatty esters at 25° C., 1 atm. The fatty esters can include esters of a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty acid and/or of a C ₆ -C ₃₂ fatty alcohol. For example, the fatty compounds can include or be selected from fatty acid monoesters and diesters, polyol esters, polyglycerol esters, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate, polyglycerol dimerate isostearate, ethylhexanoate, polyglycerol esters polyglycerol, and a mixture thereof. These esters may be esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₆ aliphatic mono or polyacids, and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C ₁ -C ₂₅ aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms in the esters being greater than or equal to 10. In one case, the fatty compounds comprise one or more fatty acid monoesters. For monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters result is branched. Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate and isostearyl neopentanoate.

In some cases, the fatty esters are cetyl esters, such as esters of fatty acids and saturated fatty alcohols. For example, the fatty esters can include or be selected from cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, myristyl myristate, myristyl stearate, cetyl myristate, stearyl stearate, cetaryl ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof. In one case, the fatty esters can be one or more of them or be chosen from isopropyl isostearate, n-propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, hexyl laurate, hexadecyl isostearate, hexyldecyl laurate , hexyldecyl octanoate, n-propyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate and mixtures thereof. In another example, fatty esters include or may be selected from diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl adipate, di-2-heptylundecyl adipate, monoisostearic acid N-alkylglycol, isocetyl isostearate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, Ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, trimethylolpropane tri-2-ethylhexanoate, pentaerythritol tetra-2-ethylhexanoate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl gum ester, oleyl oleate, octyldodecyl, decyl oleate, neopentylglycol dicaprate, triethyl citrate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate, isocetyl stearate, butyl stearate, diisopropyl sebacate, di-2-ethylhexyl sebacate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate, Isopropyl Palmitate, 2-Ethylhexyl Palmitate, 2-Hexyldecyl Palmitate, 2-Heptylundecyl Palmitate, Cholesteryl 12-Hydroxystearate, Dipentaerythritol Fatty Acid Ester, Isopropyl Myristate, Octyldodecyl Myristate, 2-Myristate -hexyldecyl, myristyl myristate, hexyldecyl dimethyloctanoate, ethyl laurate, hexyl laurate, diisostearyl malate, dicaprylyl carbonate, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, and mixtures thereof. In yet another case, the cosmetic composition includes one or more or may have fatty compounds selected from cetearyl alcohol, cetearyl ethylhexanoate, isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of liquid fatty acid include triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acid, or alternatively , for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, coconut oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, apricot oil, safflower oil, bancoul oil, coconut oil , camelina oil, tamanu oil, babassu oil and pracaxi oil, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

Non-limiting examples of solid fatty acid esters and/or fatty acid esters which may be mentioned include solid esters obtained from C ₉ -C ₂₆ fatty acids and C ₉ -C ₂₅ . Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, pelargonate of octyl, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

Fatty alcohol derivatives

The cosmetic compositions may, in some cases, include fatty alcohol derivatives such as fatty alcohol alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol alkoxylates, fatty alcohol alkoxylate alkyl ethers, fatty alcohol esters and a mixture of these. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohol derivatives include materials such as methyl stearyl ether, 2-ethylhexyl dodecyl ether, stearyl acetate, cetyl propionate, the ceteth series of compounds such as ceteth- 1 to ceteth-45, which are ethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the series of steareth compounds such as steareth-1 through 10, which are ethylene glycol ethers of steareth alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; ceteareth-1 to ceteareth-10, which are the ethylene glycol ethers of ceteareth alcohol, i.e. a mixture of fatty alcohols containing mainly cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, where the numerical designation indicates the number of ethylene glycol moieties present; the C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl ethers of the ceteth, steareth and ceteareth compounds described above; polyoxyethylenic ethers of branched alcohols such as octyldodecyl alcohol, dodecylpentadecyl alcohol, hexyldecyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol; polyoxyethylenic ethers of behenyl alcohol; PPG ethers such as PPG-9-steareth, PPG-11 stearyl ether, PPG-8-ceteth-1 and PPG-10 cetyl ether; and a mixture of these. The liquid fatty ethers can be chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylic ether. The non-liquid fatty ethers can also be chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular diketyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.

It is also possible to use esters of C ₄ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₁ -C ₂₂ alcohols as well as esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and C ₄ -unsweetened alcohols. C ₂₆ dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy. Mention may in particular be made of diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-n-propyl adipate; triisopropyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; neopentylglycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate.

Fatty acid derivatives

Cosmetic compositions may, in some cases, include fatty acid derivatives. Fatty acid derivatives are defined herein to include fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols as defined above, fatty acid esters of fatty alcohol derivatives as defined above when such derivatives of fatty alcohols have an esterifiable hydroxyl group, fatty acid esters of alcohols other than the fatty alcohols and fatty alcohol derivatives described above, hydroxy-substituted fatty acids, and a mixture thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives include ricinoleic acid, glycerol monostearate, 12-hydroxystearic acid, ethyl stearate, cetyl stearate, cetyl palmitate, polyoxyethylene cetyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene stearyl ether stearate, polyoxyethylene, polyoxyethylene lauryl ether stearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, polyoxyethylene monostearate, polyoxyethylene distearate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol distearate, trimethylolpropane distearate, sorbitan stearate, polyglyceryl stearate, dimethyl sebacate, PEG-15 cocoate, PPG-15 stearate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl distearate, glyceryl tristearate, PEG-8 laurate, PPG-2 isostearate, PPG-9 laurate, and a mixture thereof.

The cosmetic composition may, in some cases, contain 5% by weight or less, 4% by weight or less, 3% by weight or less, 2% by weight or less, or 1% by weight or less of tocopherol. In at least one case, the cosmetic composition is free or essentially free of tocopherol.

Cosmetic compositions are generally formulated in the form of an emulsion. Typically, cosmetic compositions are formulated to be oil-in-water emulsions, the fatty phase being emulsified in the hydrophilic phase.

Emulsifiers

The cosmetic compositions described herein include one or more emulsifiers. For example, the emulsifier can be an amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifier, used alone or in admixture, and optionally with a co-emulsifier. The emulsifiers are chosen appropriately according to the emulsion to be obtained.

For O/W emulsions, examples of emulsifiers which may be mentioned include nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylene) fatty acid esters of glycerol; sorbitan oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty alcohol ethers; sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof.

The one or more emulsifiers may be oxyalkylenated organosiloxane emulsifiers. The oxyalkylenated organosiloxane emulsifiers can be totally or partially cross-linked and/or be elastomeric or non-elastomeric. They are sometimes called "emulsifying elastomers" because they have both elastomeric and emulsifying properties. In some instances, the one or more emulsifiers include an organosiloxane emulsifier, including cross-linked organosiloxane emulsifiers. For example, the cosmetic compositions may comprise one or more cross-linked organosiloxane emulsifiers including or selected from cross-linked polymer of dimethicone/dimethicone PEG/PPG 15, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-10, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-10/15, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone polyglycerine-3, cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PPG-20, cross-linked polymer of dimethiconol/methylsilanol/silicate; cross-linked polymer of dimethiconol/silicate, cross-linked polymer of lauryl dimethicone PEG-15, cross-linked polymer of lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3, cross-linked polymer of PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20, cross-linked polymer of PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone, cross-linked polymer of PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone, PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer, PEG-15 lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl cross-linked polymer, and mixtures thereof.

In another case, the cosmetic compositions include one or more linear organosiloxane emulsifiers chosen from cyclotetrasiloxane (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18 dimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone; cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone; bis-cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone; cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone; PEG-11 methyl ether dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone; PEG-9 dimethicone; PEG-3 dimethicone; PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone; PEG-10 dimethicone; lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone; and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of organosiloxane emulsifiers include those with C.T.F.A. Bis-Butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone; Bis-butyldimethicone Polyglyceryl-3; Bis-isobutyl PEG/PPG-10/7 Dimethicone copolymer; Bis-PEG/PPG-18/6 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone; Bis-PEG/PPG-16/16 PEG/PPG-16/16 Dimethicone; Bis(PPG-7 Undeceneth-21-Dimethicone; Cetyl Dimethicone PEG-7 Acetate; Cetyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/16 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG /PPG-7/3 Dimethicone; Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone; Dimethicone PEG-15 Acetate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Cocoate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG/PPG-7/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG/PPG-12/4 Phosphate; Dimethicone PEG-7 Undecylenate; Lauryl Dimethicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethicone; Isopolyglyceryl-3 Dimethiconol; Isostearyl Carboxyldecyl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl Methicone PEG-10 Phosphate; Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone; PEG-6 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-7 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-9 Methyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-10 Methyl Ether Dimethicone PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-32 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-PEG/PPG-28/21 Acetate Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/22 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-23/23 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-24/18 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-3/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-6/11 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-8/14 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-12/16 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-12/18 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-14/4 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/5 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-15/15 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-16/2 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-16/8 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-18/12 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-19/19 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/6 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-20/29 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/23 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-27/27 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-30/10 Dimethicone; PEG/PPG-10/3 Oleyl Ether Dimethicone; PEG-8 trisiloxane; Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone; PPG-12 Butyl Ether Dimethicone; Quaternium-17 silicone; TEA-Dimethicone PEG-7 Phosphate; and mixtures thereof.

Other examples of commercial emulsifiers based on linear organosiloxanes are those sold by Dow Corning under the trade name Dow Corning 3225C Formulation Aid having the CTFA name cyclotetrasiloxane (and) cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18 dimethicone; or 5225C Formulation Aid, having the CTFA name cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; or the surfactant Dow Corning 190 having the CTFA name PEG/PPG-18/18 dimethicone; or the fluid Dow Corning 193, Dow Corning 5200 having the name CTFA lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 methicone; or Abil EM 90 having the name CTFA cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone sold by Goldschmidt; or Abil EM 97 having the name CTFA bis-cetyl PEG/PPG-14/14 dimethicone sold by Goldschmidt; or Abil WE 09 having the name CTFA cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone in a mixture also containing polyglyceryl-4 isostearate and hexyl laurate; or KF-6011 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the name CTFA methyl ether dimethicone PEG-11; KF-6012 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the name CTFA PEG/PPG-20/22 butyl ether dimethicone; or KF-6013 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the name CTFA PEG-9 dimethicone; or KF-6015 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the name CTFA PEG-3 dimethicone; or KF-6016 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the name CTFA PEG-9 methyl ether dimethicone; or KF-6017 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the name CTFA PEG-10 dimethicone; or KF-6038 sold by Shin-Etsu Silicones having the name CTFA lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.

Other examples of cross-linked organosiloxane emulsifiers include, but are not limited to, PEG/PPG 15 dimethicone/dimethicone cross-linked polymer; the cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-10; the cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-10/15; the cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PEG-15; the cross-linked polymer of polyglycerin-3 dimethicone; the cross-linked polymer of dimethicone PPG-20; dimethiconol/methylsilanol/silicate cross-linked polymer; dimethiconol/silicate cross-linked polymer; the cross-linked polymer of lauryl dimethicone PEG-15; the cross-linked polymer of lauryl dimethicone polyglycerin-3; the cross-linked polymer of PEG-8 dimethicone polysorbate-20; PEG-10 dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone cross-linked polymer; the cross-linked polymer of PEG-10 lauryl dimethicone; PEG-15/lauryl dimethicone cross-linked polymer; and PEG-15 lauryl polydimethylsiloxyethyl crosslinked polymer.

The emulsifiers can, in certain cases, be a nonionic surfactant, such as a surfactant chosen from: alkanolamides; alkylpolyglucosides; polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants; polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants; ethoxylated fatty esters; alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated fatty acid esters; ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide copolymers; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; sorbitan ethoxylated fatty acid esters comprising from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) polyglycosides; derivatives of N-alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) glucamine, amine oxides such as alkylamine oxides (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) or N-acyl oxides (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) aminopropylmorpholine; and mixtures thereof.

Additional nonionic surfactants which may in some cases be suitable include, for example, alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and having at least one fatty chain comprising , for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 1 to 30. Mention may also be made, of non-limiting manner, copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as from 1.5 to 4; sorbitan ethoxylated fatty acid esters comprising from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters; mono or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol; (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkyl polyglycosides; derivatives of N-alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) glucamine, amine oxides such as alkyl (C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ ) amine oxides or N-acyl oxides (C ₁₀ - _C14 ) aminopropylmorpholine; and mixtures thereof.

In certain cases, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing for example from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof; C ₈ -C ₂₄ polyethylene glycol esters; C ₈ -C ₂₄ sorbitol esters; sugar esters (sucrose, glucose, alkylglycose) of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, and alkoxylated derivatives thereof; sugar ethers of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; and mixtures thereof. In one case, the nonionic surfactant is an ethoxylated fatty ester chosen from the addition products of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and mixtures of these. Examples of ethoxylated fatty esters which may be suitable include those containing from 9 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as PEG-9 to PEG-50 laurate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 laurate to PEG-50 laurate); palmitate from PEG-9 to PEG-50 (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 palmitate to PEG-50 palmitate); PEG-9 to PEG-50 stearate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 stearate to PEG-50 stearate); palmitostearate from PEG-9 to PEG-50; PEG-9 to PEG-50 behenate (under the CTFA names: PEG-9 behenate to PEG-50 behenate); polyethylene glycol monostearate 100 EO (under the CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate); and mixtures thereof.

The nonionic surfactant can be chosen from glycerol esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (mono-, di- and/or glyceryl tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate); glyceryl ricinoleate; glycerol esters of C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkoxylated fatty acids, such as polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate), and PEG-20 glyceryl stearate; and mixtures thereof.

In some cases, the cosmetic composition may include an emulsifier such as dimeric surfactants called "geminate surfactants", which may have two identical or different surfactant moieties, and consisting of a hydrophilic head group and a lipophilic group linked together by the leading groups, thanks to a spacer. For example, the one or more emulsifiers may include or be chosen from those sold by the company Sasol under the name CERALUTIOM, for example, CERALUTION H: behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, citrate of glyceryl stearate and dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sodium sulphate, CERALUTION F: sodium lauroyl lactylate and sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulphate, CERALUTION C: water, capric/caprylic triglyceride, ceteareth-25, sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulphate, sodium lauroyl lactylate, alcohol behenyl, glyceryl stearate, glyceryl stearate citrate, gum arabic, xanthan gum, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben. In one embodiment, the emulsifier of the cosmetic composition consists of sodium lauroyl lactylate or consists essentially of sodium lauroyl lactylate. In another embodiment, the emulsifier(s) of the cosmetic composition include(s) sodium lauroyl lactylate with one or more additional emulsifiers, such as a nonionic emulsifier or an anionic emulsifier.

The total amount of emulsifiers in the compositions can vary, for example, from about 0.001 to about 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of fatty compounds can be about 0.001 to about 25% by weight, about 0.001 to about 20% by weight, about 0.001 to about 15% by weight, about 0.001 to about 10% by weight , about 0.001 to about 8 wt%, about 0.001 to about 6 wt%, about 0.005 to about 25 wt%, about 0.005 to about 20 wt%, about 0.005 to about 15 wt%, about 0.005 to about 10 wt%, about 0.005 to about 8 wt%, about 0.005 to 6 wt%, about 0.01 to about 25 wt%, about 0.01 to about 20 wt%, about 0 .01 to about 15% by weight, about 0.01 to about 10% by weight, about 0.01 to about 8% by weight, or about 0.01 to about 6% by weight, from about 0.05 to about 25% by weight, about 0.05 to about 20% by weight, about 0.05 to about 15% by weight, about 0.05 to about 10% by weight, about 0.05 to about 8% by weight, or about 0.05 to about 6% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. In one case, the total amount of emulsifiers in the cosmetic composition is typically 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9 or 1.0% by weight to 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10% by weight.

Cationic surfactant

The cosmetic compositions can optionally include one or more cationic surfactants. As used herein, the term "cationic surfactant" refers to a surfactant which can be positively charged when contained in the cosmetic compositions according to the disclosure. This surfactant may bear one or more permanent positive charges or may contain one or more functional groups which are cationizable in the cosmetic composition according to the disclosure. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants which may be in the cosmetic composition include or may be selected from behenalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, lauralkonium chloride, cetalkonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, cetrimonium, cethylamine hydrofluoride, chlorallylmethenamine chloride (Quaternium-15), distearyldimonium chloride (Quaternium-5), dodecyl dimethyl ethylbenzyl ammonium chloride (Quaternium-14), Quaternium-22, Quaternium-26, Quaternium-18 hectorite, dimethylaminoethyl chloride hydrochloride, cysteine hydrochloride, oleyl ether diethanolammonium phosphate POE (10), oleyl ether diethanolammonium phosphate POE (3), tallow alkonium chloride, dimethyl dioctadecylammonium bentonite, stearalkonium chloride, domiphene bromide, benzoate denatonium, myristalkonium chloride, laurtrimonium chloride, ethylenediamine dihydrochloride, guanidine hydrochloride, pyridoxine HCl, iofetamine hydrochloride, meglumine hydrochloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, myrtrimonium bromide, oleyltrimonium chloride, polyquaternium-1, procaine, cocobetaine, stearalkonium bentonite, stearalkonium hectonite, stearyl trihydroxyethylpropylenediamine dihydrofluoride, tallow trimonium chloride, hexadecyltrimethyl ammonium bromide, and a mixture thereof.

In one instance, the cationic surfactants include or may be selected from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium chloride, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, brassicamidopropyldimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine, myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture of these.

The cationic surfactant(s) may optionally be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, or salts thereof, and quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. In some cases it is useful to use salts such as the chloride salts of quaternary ammonium compounds. The quaternary ammonium compounds can be fatty amines having, for example, at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Examples of quaternary ammonium salts include those having a structure according to the general formula provided below:

in which the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, in the least one of the groups R ₈ to R ₁₁ designating a group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms in particular such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₂ -C ₃₀ alkenyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxy(C ₂ -C ₆ alkylene), C 2 -C 6 alkylamide, C ₁ -C ₃₀ , alkylamido (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl (C ₂ -C ₆ ), alkyl acetate (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ ) and hydroxyalkyl C ₁ -C ₃₀ ; X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (in C ₁ -C ₄ ) sulfates and alkyl (in C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkylaryl (in C ₁ -C ₄ ) sulphonates.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts having a structure according to the above formula include tetraalkylammonium salts (e.g., dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium salts), oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium salts, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts and stearamidopropyldimethylketearylammonium salts.

Additional examples of quaternary ammonium salts include quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those having a structure according to the general formula provided below:

in which R ₁₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkyl group or alkenyl comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₁₄ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates in which the alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise, respectively, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms. R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ preferably denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, derived for example from tallow fatty acids, R ₁₄ preferably denotes a methyl group, and R ₁₅ preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.

Other examples of quaternary ammonium salts include diammonium or triquaternary ammonium salts, such as those having a structure according to the general formula provided below:

in which R ₁₆ denotes an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R ₁₇ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , R _16a , R _17a , R _18a , R ₁₈ , R ₁₉ , R ₂₀ and R ₂₁ , identical or different , being chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methyl sulphates. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75),

In certain cases, the cationic surfactant is preferably chosen from cetrimonium chloride, stearimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, behenamidopropyltrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyltrimonium chloride, arachidtrimonium chloride, distearyldimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, tricetylmonium, oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, linoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, oleyl hydroxyethyl imidazoline, stearamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldimethylamine, behenamidopropyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldiethylamine, behenamidoethyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldimethylamine, arachidamidopropyldiethylamine, ara chidamidoethyldiethylamine, arachidamidoethyldimethylamine, and mixtures thereof. In other cases, the cationic surfactants are more preferably selected from cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, and a mixture thereof. In one case, the cosmetic composition includes only behentrimonium methosulfate or essentially only behentrimonium methosulfate. In another case, however, the cosmetic composition includes behentrimonium methosulfate and at least one other cationic surfactant, such as, for example, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, or a mixture thereof.

The cosmetic composition can include an amount of cationic surfactants greater than zero up to about 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) can be greater than zero at about 14% by weight, greater than zero at about 12% by weight, greater than zero at about 10% by weight, greater than zero to about 8% by weight, more than zero to about 6% by weight, more than zero to about 5% by weight, more than zero to about 4% by weight, more than zero to about 3% by weight, more than zero to about 2% by weight, more than zero to about 1% by weight, about 0.1 to about 8% by weight, about 0.1 to about 6% by weight, about 0.1 to about 5% by weight , about 0.1 to about 4% by weight, about 0.1 to about 3% by weight, about 0.1 to about 2% by weight, about 0.1 to about 1% by weight, about 0, 5 to about 10% by weight, about 0.5 to about 8% by weight, about 0.5 to about 5% by weight, about 0.5 to about 4% by weight, about 0.5 to about 3% by weight, about 0.5 to about 2% by weight, about 0.5 to about 1% by weight, about 1 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 8% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1 to about 4% by weight, or about 1 to about 3% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Additionally or alternatively, the total amount of cationic surfactant(s) may be greater than zero to 14% by weight, greater than zero to 12% by weight, greater than zero to 10% by weight, greater than zero to 8% by weight, plus zero to 6% by weight, plus zero to 5% by weight, plus zero to 4% by weight, plus zero to 3% by weight, plus zero to 2% by weight, more than zero to 1 wt%, 0.1 to 8 wt%, 0.1 to 6 wt%, 0.1 to 5 wt%, 0.1 to 4 wt%, 0, 1-3% by weight, 0.1-2% by weight, 0.1-1% by weight, 0.5-10% by weight, 0.5-8% by weight, 0.5-5% by weight, 0.5 to 4% by weight, 0.5 to 3% by weight, 0.5 to 2% by weight, 0.5 to 1% by weight, from 1 to 10% by weight, 1 to 8 wt%, 1 to 5 wt%, 1 to 4 wt% or 1 to 3 wt%, including intermediate ranges and subranges, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Thickening agent(s)

The cosmetic compositions described herein may optionally include one or more thickening agents. The amount of thickening agents may depend on the other components of the cosmetic composition and on the viscosity desired for the cosmetic composition.

The thickening agent may be present in an amount of about 0.05 wt% to about 5 wt%, about 0.05 wt% to about 4 wt%, about 0.05 wt% to about 3 wt%, about 0.05 wt% to about 2 wt%, about 0.05 wt% to about 1 wt%; about 0.1 wt% to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 wt% to about 4 wt%, about 0.1 wt% to about 3 wt%, about 0.1 wt% to about 2% by weight, about 0.1% by weight to about 1% by weight; about 0.2 wt% to about 5 wt%, about 0.2 wt% to about 4 wt%, about 0.2 wt% to about 3 wt%, about 0.2 wt% about 2% by weight, about 0.2% by weight to about 1% by weight; about 0.3 wt% to about 5 wt%, about 0.3 wt% to about 4 wt%, about 0.3 wt% to about 3 wt%, about 0.3 wt% to about 2% by weight, or about 0.3% by weight to about 1% by weight, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Also, the amount of thickening agent can be 0.05, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0, 9, 1.0 or 1.5 wt% to 2, 3, 4 or 5 wt%, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Many thickening agents are soluble in water, and increase the viscosity of water or form an aqueous gel when the cosmetic composition of the invention is dispersed/dissolved in water. The thickening agent other than sodium polyacrylate can be dispersed/dissolved in an aqueous solvent which is soluble in water, for example ethyl alcohol when dispersed/dissolved in water.

Thickening agents may be referred to as "thickeners" or "viscosity modifiers". Thickening agents are typically included to increase the viscosity of the compositions. Nevertheless, in certain cases, certain thickening agents bring additional and surprising benefits to the compositions. Non-limiting examples of thickening agents include cross-linked polyacrylate polymers (other than sodium polyacrylate) or cross-linked polyacrylate polymers (other than cross-linked sodium polyacrylate), cationic acrylate copolymers, anionic acrylic or carboxylic acid, polyacrylamide polymers, polysaccharides such as cellulose derivatives, gums, polyquaterniums, vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers/copolymers, C _8-24 hydroxyl-substituted aliphatic acids, conjugated aliphatic acids C _8-24 , fatty sugar esters, polyglyceryl esters and a mixture thereof. Suitable thickeners other than sodium polyacrylate can be found in US Patent Application No. 16/731,654.

The thickening agents can be chosen from xanthan gum, guar gum, biosaccharide gum, cellulose, acacia seneca gum, sclerotium gum, agarose, pectin, gellan gum, hyaluronic acid. Additionally, thickening agents can include polymeric thickeners selected from the group consisting of ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer, acrylate copolymers, polyacrylamide, carbomer, and acrylate/acrylate cross-linked polymer. C _10-30 alkyl.

Specific types of thickening agents that may be mentioned include the following:

Homopolymer or copolymer based on carboxylic acid or carboxylate, which can be linear or cross-linked:

These polymers contain one or more monomers derived from acrylic acid, substituted acrylic acids, and salts and esters of these acrylic acids (acrylates) and substituted acrylic acids. Commercially available polymers include those sold under the trade names Carbopol, Acrysol, Polygel, Sokalan, Carbopol Ultrez and Polygel. Examples of commercially available carboxylic acid polymers include carbomers, which are homopolymers of acrylic acid cross-linked with allyl ethers of sucrose or pentaerythritol. Carbomers are available in the Carbopol 900 series from BF Goodrich (eg, Carbopol 954). Additionally, other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid agents include Ultrez 10 (BF Goodrich) and copolymers of C _10-30 alkyl acrylates with one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or a of their short chain esters (i.e. a C _1-4 alcohol), in which the crosslinking agent is an allyl ether of sucrose or pentaerythritol. These copolymers are known as cross-linked acrylates/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate polymers and are commercially available as Carbopol 1342, Carbopol 1382, Pemulen TR-1 and Pemulen TR-2. by BF Goodrich.

Other suitable polymeric carboxylic acid or carboxylate agents include copolymers of acrylic acid and C ₅ -C ₁₀ alkyl acrylate, copolymers of acrylic acid and maleic anhydride, and cross-linked polymer of polyacrylate-6. Polyacrylate-6 cross-linked polymer is available in the raw material known as SEPIMAX ZEN from Seppic.

Another suitable polymeric carboxylic acid or carboxylate agent includes acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, a cationic copolymer of acrylates (or a quaternary ammonium compound), available as a raw material known as SIMULQUAT HC 305 from Seppic.

In certain embodiments, the carboxylic acid or carboxylate polymer thickeners useful herein are those selected from carbomers, crosslinked polymers of acrylates/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate, crosslinked polymer of polyacrylate-6, acrylamidopropyltrimonium chloride/acrylates copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Polyquaternium compounds

Non-limiting examples include polyquaternium-1, polyquaternium-2, polyquaternium-3, polyquaternium-4, polyquaternium-5, polyquaternium-6, polyquaternium-7, polyquaternium-8, polyquaternium-9, polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11 , polyquaternium-12, polyquaternium-13, polyquaternium-14, polyquaternium-15, polyquaternium-16, polyquaternium-17, polyquaternium-18, polyquaternium-19, polyquaternium-20, polyquaternium-21, polyquaternium-22, polyquaternium-23, polyquaternium -24, polyquaternium-25, polyquaternium-26, polyquaternium-27, polyquaternium-28, polyquaternium-29, polyquaternium-30, polyquaternium-40, polyquaternium-41, polyquaternium-42, polyquaternium-43, polyquaternium-44, polyquaternium-45 , polyquaternium-46, polyquaternium-47, polyquaternium-48, polyquaternium-49, polyquaternium-50, polyquaternium-51, polyquaternium-52, polyquaternium-53, polyquaternium-54, polyquaternium-55, polyquaternium-56, polyquaternium-57, polyquaternium -58, polyquaternium-59, polyquaternium-60, polyquaternium-61, polyquaternium-62, polyquaternium-63, polyquaternium-64, polyquaternium-65, polyquaternium-66, polyquaternium-67, etc. In some instances, preferred polyquaternium compounds include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, and a mixture thereof. In some instances, the cosmetic compositions include polyquaternium-10, polyquaternium-11, polyquaternium-67, or a mixture thereof.

Cellulose

Non-limiting examples of celluloses include cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxyethylethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate and mixtures thereof. In some cases, the cellulose is selected from water-soluble cellulose derivatives (eg, carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate). Also, in some cases, the cellulose is preferably hydroxypropyl cellulose (HPC). In some instances, the cosmetic compositions include one or more cellulose thickeners (eg, microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, and hydroxypropylcellulose).

Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) and copolymers

Non-limiting examples include polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/vinyl acetate copolymer (PVP/VA copolymer), polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)/eicosene copolymer, PVP/hexadecene copolymer, and the like. Commercially available polyvinylpyrrolidone include Luviskol K30, K85, K90 available from BASF. Commercially available copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate include Luviskol VA37, VA64 available from BASF; vinylpyrrolidone, methacrylamide and vinylimidazole copolymers (INCI: VP/Methacrylamide/Vinyl Imidazole Copolymer) are commercially available under the name Luviset from BASF. In some cases, PVP and the PVP/VA copolymer are preferred.

Sucrose esters

Non-limiting examples include sucrose palmitate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose monooctanoate, sucrose monodecanoate, sucrose mono- or dilaurate, sucrose monomyristate, sucrose mono- or dipalmitate, sucrose mono- and distearate, mono-, di - or sucrose trioleate, sucrose mono- or dilinoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate or sucrose octooleate, and mixed esters, such as sucrose palmitate/stearate, and mixtures thereof .

Polyglyceryl esters

Non-limiting fatty acid polyglycerol esters (polyglyceryl esters) include those of the following formula:

wherein n is between 2 and 20 or between 2 and 10 or between 2 and 5, or is equal to 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, and R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can each independently be a fatty acid moiety or hydrogen, provided that at least one of R ¹ , R ² and R ³ is a fatty acid moiety. For example, R ¹ , R ² and R ³ can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and have a length of C ₁ -C ₄₀ , C ₁ -C ₃₀ , C ₁ -C ₂₅ , or C ₁ -C ₂₀ , C ₁ -C ₁₆ , or C ₁ -C ₁₀ . Additionally, non-limiting examples of nonionic polyglyceryl esters of fatty acids include polyglyceryl-4 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprylate/caprate, polyglyceryl-4 caprate, polyglyceryl-10 caprate, polyglyceryl laurate -4, polyglyceryl-5 laurate, polyglyceryl-6 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate, polyglyceryl-10 cocoate, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, polyglyceryl-10 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 stearate, and mixtures thereof -this.

Aliphatic acid substituted with a hydroxyl group at C _8-24 and conjugated aliphatic acid at C _8-24

Non-limiting examples include conjugated linoleic acid, cis-parinaric acid, trans-7-octadecenoic acid, cis-5,8,11,14,17-eicosapentanoic acid, cis-4,7,10,13,16,19 -docosahexaenoic acid, columbinic acid, linolenelaidic acid, ricinolaidic acid, stearidonic acid, 2-hydroxystearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, cis-11,14-eicosadienoic acid, linolelaidic acid, monopetroselinic acid, petroselinic acid, ric acid inoleic acid trans-vaccenic acid, cis-11,14,17-eicosatrienoic acid, cis-5-eicosenoic acid, cis-8,11,14-eicosatrienoic acid, hexadecatrienoic acid, palmitoleic acid, petroselaidic acid, trans-farnesol, cis-13 acid ,16-docosadienoic acid, cis-vaccenic acid, cis-11-α-icosenoic acid, cis-13,16,19-docosatrienoic acid, cis-13-octadecanoic acid, cis-15-octadecanoic acid, cis-7,10,13 acid ,16-docosatetraenoic acid, elaidic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, geranic acid, geranyl-geranoic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, pinolenic acid, trans-13-octadecenoic acid. More preferably, the aliphatic acid comprises 12-hydroxystearic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, or a mixture thereof.

Erasers

Non-limiting examples of gums include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, xanthan gum, locust bean gum, seneca gum, sclerotium gum, etc

Other examples of water-soluble thickeners include natural water-soluble polymers, synthetic water-soluble polymers, clay minerals, and silicic anhydride. Non-limiting examples of water-soluble natural polymers include gum arabic, gum tragacanth, gum karaya, guar gum, gellan gum, tara gum, locust bean gum, tamarind gum, sodium alginate, propylene glycol ester of l alginic acid, carrageenan, farcelluran, agar, high methoxy pectin, low methoxy pectin, xanthine, chitosan, starch (e.g. starch derived from corn, potato, wheat, rice, from sweet potato and tapioca, a-starch, soluble starch), fermentation polysaccharide (e.g. xanthan gum, pullulan, carcirane, dextran), acid hetero-polysaccharide derived from calli of plants belonging to Polyantes sp. (eg, tuberous polysaccharide), proteins (eg, sodium casein, gelatin, albumin), chondroitin sulfate and hyaluronic acid.

The cosmetic composition may include water-soluble synthetic polymers including, for example, polyvinyl alcohol, sodium polyacrylate, sodium polymethacrylate, polyacrylic acid glycerol ester, carboxyvinyl polymer, polyacrylamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl sulfone, copolymer of maleic acid, polyethylene oxide, polydiallylamine, polyethyleneimine, water-soluble cellulose derivatives (eg, carboxymethylcellulose, methylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium salt of cellulose sulfate), and starch derivatives (eg, starch oxide, starch dialdehyde, dextrin, British gum, acetyl starch, starch phosphate, carboxymethyl starch, hydroxyethyl starch, hydroxypropyl starch).

Polyol(s)

Cosmetic compositions can include one or more polyols. The amount of polyol in the cosmetic composition, if present, can range from about 1 to about 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. For example, the cosmetic composition can include water-soluble solvents in an amount of about 1 to about 30% by weight, about 1 to about 25% by weight, about 1 to about 20% by weight, about 1 to about 18 wt%, about 1 to about 16 wt%, about 1 to about 14 wt%, about 1 to about 12 wt%, about 1 to about 10 wt%; about 5 to about 30 wt%, about 5 to about 25 wt%, about 5 to about 20 wt%, about 5 to about 18 wt%, about 5 to about 16 wt%, about 5 to about 14 wt%, about 5 to about 12 wt%, about 5 to about 10 wt%; about 10 to about 30 wt%, about 10 to about 25 wt%, about 10 to about 20 wt%, about 10 to about 18 wt%, about 10 to about 16 wt%, about 10 to about 14 % in weight ; about 12 to about 30 wt%, about 12 to about 25 wt%, about 12 to about 20 wt%, about 12 to about 18 wt%, about 12 to about 16 wt%; about 14 to about 30 wt%, about 14 to about 25 wt%, about 14 to about 20 wt%, about 14 to about 18 wt%; about 16 to about 30 wt%, about 16 to about 25 wt%, about 16 to about 20 wt%; about 18 to about 30 wt%, about 18 to about 25 wt%, about 18 to about 20 wt%, including ranges and subranges thereof, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

Polyhydric alcohols are useful. The term "polyol" should be understood as meaning, within the meaning of the present disclosure, an organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups. The polyols of the cosmetic composition can be glycols or compounds comprising numerous hydroxyl groups. In certain cases, the one or more polyols are chosen from the group consisting of C ₂ -C ₃₂ polyols. The one or more polyols may be liquid at room temperature (25°C). The one or more polyols can have 2 to 32 carbon atoms, 3 to 16 carbon atoms, or 3 to 12 carbon atoms.

Non-limiting examples of polyols which may optionally be included in the cosmetic composition include and/or may be selected from alkanediols such as glycerine, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, trimethylolpropane, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentaethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-pentanediol and 4-methyl-1,2-pentanediol; glycol ethers such as ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether , diethylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, diethylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, ethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, 1-methyl-1-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol mono-t-butyl ether, mono-n-propyl ether propylene glycol, propylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether, dipropylene glycol monoethyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-propyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-iso-propyl ether, sorbitol, sorbitan, triacetin, and a mixture thereof. The one or more polyols may optionally be glycols or glycol ethers such as, for example, monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers of ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or ethers thereof such as, for example, ether monomethyl propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol as well as alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, for example, monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether of diethylene glycol.

In some cases the polyol includes glycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,3-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 3-methyl-1 ,3-butanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, tetraethylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, and a mixture of these. Polyol compounds can also be used. Non-limiting examples include aliphatic diols, such as 2-ethyl-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3,3-dimethyl-1,2-butanediol, 2,2-diethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2 -methyl-2-propyl-1,3-propanediol, 2,4-dimethyl-2,4-pentanediol, 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-hexanediol, 5-hexene-1,2-diol and 2-ethyl -1,3-hexanediol, and a mixture thereof.

In some cases, the polyol is chosen from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, pentylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, 1,3 propanediol, glycerin, diglycerin, polyethylene glycols, and a mixture of those -this.

Active agents for the skin

The cosmetic compositions may optionally include one or more skin-active agents, such as anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle actives, antioxidants, humectants, moisturizing ingredients, depigmenting agents, and/or to treat oily skin, etc. The active agents for the skin can be included in the cosmetic composition in an amount ranging from greater than zero to about 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. For example, the total amount of skin active agents can be greater than zero at about 5% by weight, greater than zero at about 4% by weight, greater than zero at about 3% by weight, greater than zero at about 2% by weight; about 10 ppm to about 5 wt% (50,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 2.5 wt% (25,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 1 wt% (10,000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.5 wt% (5000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.3 wt% (3000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.2 wt% (2000 ppm), about 10 ppm to about 0.1 (1000 ppm), about 10 ppm to 500 ppm; about 0.05 to about 5 wt%, about 0.05 to about 2.5 wt%, about 0.05 to about 1 wt%, about 0.05 to about 0.5 wt%; about 0.1 to about 5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 2.5 wt%, about 0.1 to about 1 wt%, about 0.1 to about 0.5 wt%; about 1 to about 5 wt%, about 1 to about 4 wt%, about 1 to about 3 wt%; about 2 to about 5% by weight, about 2 to about 4% by weight; or about 3 to about 5% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

A non-limiting discussion of skin-active agents that may, in some cases, be included in the cosmetic composition is provided below:

Humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients

By way of examples of humectants and/or moisturizing ingredients, mention may be made of glycerol and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives, in particular Hydrovance marketed by National Starch, hyaluronic acid, sodium pidolate, xylitol, serine, ectoin and its derivatives, collagen, plankton, an extract of Imperata cylindra sold under the name Moist 24 by Sederma, homopolymers of acrylic acid such as Lipidure-HM from NOF Corporation, beta -glucan and in particular sodium carboxymethylbeta-glucan Mibelle-AG-Biochemistry, a mixture of passionflower, apricot, corn and rice bran oils sold by Nestlé under the name NutraLipids, derivatives of C-glycosides , in particular C-13-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane in the form of a solution with 30% by weight of active ingredient in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40% by weight) such as the product manufactured by the company Chimex under the trade name "Mexoryl SBB", a rosehip oil marketed by Nestlé, an extract of micro-algae Prophyridium cruentum enriched with zinc, marketed under the name Vincience Algualane of collagen spheres and chondroitin sulphate of marine origin ( Atelocollagen) sold by the company Engelhard Lyon under the name Marine Filling Spheres, spheres of hyaluronic acid such as those marketed by Engelhard Lyon, and arginine.

Depigmenting agents

Depigmenting agents which can be incorporated into the cosmetic composition include those selected from alpha and beta arbutin, lucinol and its derivatives, kojic acid, resorcinol and derivatives thereof, homogentisic acid, methyl gentisate or homogentisate, dioic acid, calcium D-panthetein sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, linoleic acid and its derivatives, certain compounds derived from plants such as chamomile, bearberry, the aloe family (vera, ferox, bardensis), mulberry, skullcap, a water kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, a root extract of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that sold by Ichimaru Pharcos under the name Liquid Botanpi Be an extract of brown sugar (Saccharum officinarum) such as the molasses extract marketed by Taiyo Kagaku under the name Liquid Molasses, without this list being exhaustive. Among the particular depigmenting agents, mention may be made of alpha and beta arbutin, kojic acid, resorcinol and its derivatives, D pantheteine calcium sulfonate, lipoic acid, ellagic acid, vitamin B3, a water of kiwi (Actinidia chinensis) marketed by Gattefosse, an extract from the root of Paeonia suffruticosa, such as that marketed by the company Ichimaru Pharcos under the name of Botanpi Liquid B.

Anti-wrinkle active

The cosmetic composition can include one or more anti-wrinkle active agents. The term “anti-wrinkle active” designates a natural or synthetic compound producing a biological effect, such as the increase in the synthesis and/or the activity of certain enzymes, when it is brought into contact with an area of skin wrinkles, which has the effect of reducing the appearance of wrinkles and/or fine lines. Exemplary anti-wrinkle active agents can be chosen from: desquamating agents, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and/or preventing their degradation, agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and/or keratinocytes, or stimulating keratinocyte differentiation; muscle relaxant and/or dermo-decontracting agents, anti-free radical agents, and mixtures thereof. Examples of such compounds are: adenosine and its derivatives and retinoids other than retinol (as discussed above), ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl glucoside; nicotinic acid and its precursors such as nicotinamide; ubiquinone; glutathione and precursors thereof such as L-2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid, C-glycoside compounds and their derivatives as described in particular in document EP-1345919, in particular C-beta- D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane as described in particular in document EP-1345919, plant extracts including sea fennel and olive leaf extracts, as well as plants and hydrolysates thereof such as rice protein hydrolysates or soy proteins; extracts of algae and in particular of laminaria, bacterial extracts, sapogenins such as diosgenin and extracts of plants of the genus Dioscorea, in particular of wild yam, comprising: α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids, such than salicylic acid and n-octanoyl-5-salicylic oligopeptides and pseudodipeptides and acylated derivatives thereof, in particular {2-[acetyl-(3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl)-amino]-3-methyl acid -} acetic acid and the lipopeptides marketed by the company under the trade names SEDERMA Matrixyl 500 and Matrixyl 3000; lycopene, manganese salts and magnesium salts, especially gluconates, and mixtures thereof. In at least one case, the cosmetic composition includes derivatives of adenosine, such as non-phosphate derivatives of adenosine, such as in particular 2′-deoxyadenosine, 2′,3′-adenosine isopropoylidene; toyocamycin, 1-methyladenosine, N-6-methyladenosine; Adenosine N-oxide, 6-methylmercaptopurine riboside, 6-chloropurine riboside. Other derivatives include adenosine receptor agonists such as phenylisopropyl adenosine ("PIA"), 1-methylisoguanosine, N6-cyclohexyladenosine (CHA), N6-cyclopentyladenosine (CPA), 2-chloro-N6-cyclopentyladenosine , 2-chloroadenosine, N6-phenyladenosine, 2-phenylaminoadenosine, MECA, N6-phenethyladenosine, 2-p-(2-carboxy-ethyl) phenethyl-amino-5'-N-ethylcarboxamido adenosine (CGS-21680), N-ethylcarboxamido -adenosine (NECA), 5'(N-cyclopropyl)-carboxamidoadenosine, DPMA (PD 129.944) and metrifudil.

Active agent for oily skin

The cosmetic composition may optionally include a skin active agent intended for oily skin. These agents can be sebum-regulating or anti-seborrheic agents capable of regulating the activity of the sebaceous glands. Examples of skin actives intended to treat oily skin include: retinoic acid, retinol, benzoyl peroxide, sulfur, vitamin B6 (pyridoxine or) chloride, selenium, glasswort--mixture of cinnamon, tea and octanoylglycine such as--15 Sepicontrol A5 TEA from Seppic--mixture of cinnamon, sarcosine and octanoylglycine marketed in particular by Seppic under the name Sepicontrol A5--zinc salts such as zinc gluconate, zinc pyrrolidonecarboxylate (or pidolate zinc), zinc lactate, zinc aspartate, zinc carboxylate, zinc salicylate 20, zinc cysteate; --derivatives in particular of copper and copper pidolate in the form of Cuivridone Solabia--plant extracts of Arnica montana, Cinchona succirubra, Eugenia caryophyllata, Humulus lupulus, Hypericum perforatum, Mentha pipenta 25 Rosmarinus officinalis, Salvia officinalis and Thymus vulgaris, all marketed for example by Maruzen--extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria), such as that sold under the name Sebonormine by Silab--extracts of the seaweed Laminaria saccharina, such as that sold under the name Phlorogine by Biotechmarine--root extracts of mixtures of burnet (Sanguisorba officinalis/Poterium officinale), ginger rhizomes (Zingiber officinalis) and cinnamon bark (Cinnamomum cassia), such as those sold as Sebustop by Solabia--seed extracts flax extracts such as those sold as Linumine by Lucas Meyer--Phellodendron extracts such as those sold as Phellodendron BG extract by Maruzen or Oubaku Liquid B by Ichimaru Pharcos--argan oil blends extract of Serenoa serrulata (saw palmetto) and sesame seeds such as that sold under the name Regu SEB by Pentapharm--mixtures of extracts of willowherb, Terminalia chebula, nasturtium and bioavailable zinc (microalgae) , such as that sold under the name Seborilys Green Tech;--extracts of Pygeum afrianum such as those sold under the name Pygeum afrianum sterolic lipid extract by Euromed--extracts of Serenoa serrulata such as those sold under the name Viapure Sabal by Actives International, and those sold by the company Euromed-- extracts of mixtures of plantain, Berberis aquifolium and sodium salicylate 20 such as those sold under the name Seboclear Rahn--clove bud extract such as that sold under the powdered clove extract name by Maruzen--argan oil such as that sold as Lipofructyl Serobiological Laboratories; 25--lactic protein filtrates, such as that sold under the name Normaseb by Sederma--extracts of laminaria algae, such as that sold under the name Laminarghane by Biotechmarine--oligosaccharides from the seaweed Laminaria digitata, such as those sold under the name Phycosaccharide 30 AC by the Codif company--sugar cane extracts such as those sold under the name Policosanol by the Sabinsa company, sulphonated shale oil, such as those sold under the name Ichtyol Pale by Ichthyol--extracts of meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) such as those sold under the name of Cytobiol Ulmaire by the company Libiol--sebacic acid, in particular sold in the form of sodium polyacrylate gel under the name of Sebosoft from Sederma- -glucomannans extracted from the konjac tuber and modified by alkylsulfonate chains such as those sold under the name Biopol Beta from Arch Chemical--extracts of Sophora angustifolia, such as those sold under the name Sophora powder or Sophora extract by Bioland-- cinchona succirubra bark extracts such as those sold as Red Bark HS by Alban Muller--Quillaja saponaria extracts such as those sold as Panama wood HS by Alban Muller--undecylenic chain-grafted glycine, such than that sold under the name Lipacide UG OR by SEPPIC--mixture of oleanolic acid and nordihydroguaiaretic acid, such as that sold in gel form under the name AC. Net of Sederma; 20--phthalimidoperoxyhexanoic acid--citrate tri (C ₁₂ -C ₁₃ ) sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECI from Sasol; trialkyl (C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ ) citrate sold under the name COSMACOL.RTM. ECL from Sasol; 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, including October 25 hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid and 1,10-decandiol mixtures such as that sold as Acnacidol BG by Vincience and mixtures thereof.

Conservatives

One or more preservatives may be included in the cosmetic compositions described herein. Suitable preservatives may include, but are not limited to, compounds containing glycerin (e.g. glycerin or ethylhexylglycerin or phenoxyethanol), benzyl alcohol, parabens (methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben, etc.), sodium benzoate , ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), disodium EDTA, potassium sorbate, and/or grapefruit seed extract, or combinations thereof. More than one preservative may be included in the composition. Other preservatives are known in the cosmetic industry and include salicylic acid, DMDM hydantoin, formaldehyde, chlorphenesm, triclosan, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, sorbic acid, methylisothiazolinone, sodium dehydroacetate, dehydroacetic acid, Quaternium-15, stearalkonium chloride , zinc pyrithione, sodium metabisulfite, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane, chlorhexidine digluconate, polyaminopropyl biguanide, benzalkonium chloride, sodium sulfite, sodium salicylate, citric acid, neem oil, essential oils (various), acid lactic acid and vitamin E (tocopherol). In one case, the cosmetic composition contains a plurality of preservatives including or selected from disodium EDTA, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, tocopheryl acetate, and/or a mixture thereof.

The preservative is optionally included in an amount ranging from about 0.01% by weight to about 5% by weight, about 0.15% to about 1% by weight, or about 1% by weight to about 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

pH adjuster

The cosmetic composition can include one or more pH adjusters to increase or decrease the overall pH of the cosmetic composition. For example, one or more acids can be included to lower the pH of the cosmetic composition. Examples of acids suitable for lowering the pH of the cosmetic composition include, but are not limited to, citric acid, acetic acid and the like. The cosmetic composition can include one or more bases, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide and the like, to lower the pH of the cosmetic composition. Additional or alternative acids and bases which are suitable for adjusting the pH of the cosmetic composition are readily known to one of ordinary skill in the art.

The cosmetic composition can preferably have a pH of about 4 to about 7, preferably about 4.5 to about 6.5 or about 5.5 to about 6.5. Additionally or alternatively, the pH of the cosmetic composition can range from 4 and 7, preferably between 4.5 and 6.5, or preferably between 5.5 and 6.5. In one case, the pH of the cosmetic composition is 6 or about 6.

The amount of the pH adjuster in the cosmetic composition can be based on the desired pH of the cosmetic composition and/or the final product. For example, the total amount of pH adjuster can range from about 0.05 to about 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. In some cases, the total amount of pH adjuster is about 0.05 to about 15% by weight, about 0.5 to about 10% by weight, about 1 to about 5% by weight, about 1.5 to about 4% by weight, or about 2.0 to about 3% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition. Additionally or alternatively, the cosmetic compositions may include an amount of pH adjuster ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight, 0.5 to 10% by weight, 1 to 5% by weight, 1.5 to 4 % by weight, or 2.0 to 3% by weight, including intermediate ranges and subranges, based on the total weight of the composition.

Water

The total amount of water in the cosmetic composition can vary, but is typically about 30 to about 95% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. In some cases, the total amount of water is about 30 to about 90% by weight, about 30 to about 85% by weight, about 30 to about 80% by weight, about 35 to about 90% by weight, about 35 to about 85% by weight, about 35 to about 80% by weight, about 40 to about 90% by weight, about 40 to about 85% by weight, about 40 to about 80% by weight, about 45 to about 90% by weight, about 45 to about 85% by weight, about 45 to about 80% by weight, about 50 to about 90% by weight, about 50 to about 85% by weight, about 50 to about 80% by weight, about 55 about 90% by weight, about 55 to about 85% by weight, about 55 to about 80% by weight, about 60 to about 90% by weight, about 60 to about 85% by weight, about 60 to about 80% by weight, about 65 to about 90% by weight, about 65 to about 85% by weight, or about 65 to about 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic compositions of the present disclosure are preferably stable. The term "stable" as used herein means that the cosmetic composition does not visually separate into phases or crystallize and degrade completely.

The present disclosure also relates to methods of using the cosmetic compositions described herein. For example, the cosmetic compositions can be used in a method that includes applying the cosmetic compositions to the skin of humans. In some cases, the composition is applied to the face. Additionally, the cosmetic composition can be used in methods for treating dry skin, repairing skin damage (eg, damage caused by photoaging), and diminishing the appearance of wrinkles, spots dark and uneven skin texture. The aforementioned methods are non-therapeutic.

The cosmetic composition can be applied once a day, twice a day, or more than once or twice a day. In some cases, the composition is applied in the evening before bedtime. In other cases, the composition is applied in the morning. In still other cases, the composition can be applied immediately after washing the skin. The compositions can be used once, or for a series of days, weeks or months. For example, the compositions can be used daily for a period of 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 or more weeks, or months.

EXAMPLES

Implementation of this disclosure is provided by means of the following examples. The following examples serve to elucidate aspects of the technology without being limiting in nature.

Example 1

(Inventive compositions)

Ex. inventive 1* Ex. inventive 2* Phase US INCI WATER / AQUA Q.S. Q.S. Phase A1 POLYACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER-6 0.80 0.80 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.30 0.30 SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.10 0.10 INULIN LAURYL CARBAMATE 1 1 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.11 0.11 Phase A2 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.60 0.60 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.30 CHLORPHENESIN 0.20 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 3 4 PENTYLENE GLYCOL 3 HEXYLENE GLYCOL 1 ISONONYL ISONONANOATE 3 3 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE 1 0.80 GLYCINE SOJA (SOYBEAN) OIL / GLYCINE SOJA OIL 0.60 0.80 OCTYLDODECANOL 2.40 2.50 ISOPROPYL LAUROYL SARCOSINATE 1.50 1.50 Phase B ISOCETYL STEAROYL STEARATE 0.40 0.30 HYDROGENATED LECITHIN 0.60 0.60 C14-22 ALCOHOLS (and) C12-20 ALKYL GLUCOSIDE 1.20 1.20 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.20 0.20 PHENYLETHYL RESORCINOL 0.30 HYDROXYACETOPHENONE 0.50 0.50 CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID 0.30 0.30 Stage C TOCOPHEROL 0.50 0.50 ASCORBIC ACID 10 10 Stage D WATER / AQUA 3 3 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 2.20 2.20 E-stage ACRYLAMIDE/SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE COPOLYMER (and) ISOHEXADECANE (and) POLYSORBATE 80 1 1 Stage F METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER 0.90 0.90 BORON NITRIDE 0.60 0.60

* % of active ingredients

The inventive examples were prepared according to the following procedure:

Phase A1 polymers were dispersed in water with stirring until a clear gel formed without powder or lumps. Then, the components of phase A2 were added to the resulting gel with stirring to give aqueous phase A. Phase A was then heated to about 75°C. Separately, phases B and C were combined and heated at 75°C until all materials had melted, dispersed and/or solubilized. Phases B and C were then slowly added to phase A with further sitting and homogenization until a fine emulsion was formed. The resulting formula was then cooled. After reaching <30°C, the D-phase components were added, followed by the E-phase components, with homogenization to combine them. Finally, phase F was added and the formula was homogenized. The process is complete when a fine emulsion is obtained with a well-dispersed powder, and the batch reaches approximately 25°C.

Example 2

(Evaluation of the chemical stability of vitamin C)

Inventive Examples 1 and 2 were formulated to contain high levels of actives, primarily high levels of pure vitamin C. In order to assess the stability of pure vitamin C in the formulation, various antioxidants and chelators were tested in these emulsions (i.e. the comparative examples). The inventive and comparative examples are shown in Table 2.

US INCI Ex. witness* Ex.
inv. 1* Ex. inv. 2* Ex. comp.1* Example comp.2* Example comp.3* Example comp.4* e.g. comp. 5* Example comp.6* e.g. comp. 7* e.g. comp. 8* ASCORBIC ACID 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 TOCOPHEROL 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 HYDROXY-ACETOPHENONE 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 PENTAERYTHRITYL TETRA-DI-T-BUTYL HYDROXYHYDROCINNAMATE 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 FERULIC ACID 0.50 DIMETHYL SULFONE 1.00 DIETHYLHEXYL SYRINGYLIDENEMALONATE 0.50 TRISODIUM ETHYLENEDIAMINE DISUCCINATE 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 0.11 SODIUM PHYTATE 0.50 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.25 CHLOROGENIC ACIDS 0.50

* % of active ingredients

After formulation, each sample formula was filled into an aluminum tube and observed for chemical stability. The analysis team dosed the amount of vitamin C and this was measured over time by an analytical method. The results are shown in the table below.

[Table n3 ]: Chemical stability of vitamin C Chemical stability of vitamin C Examples Description Initial T1M 25 T1M 45 T2M 25 T2M
45 %
remaining Comments Ex. witness Basic formula >10.90% 10.90% 10.10% 9.71% 8.44% 77.43% e.g. comp. 3 0.5% ferulic acid (AOX) >10.30% 10.30% 9.50% 9.80% 8.10% 78.64% e.g. comp. 4 1% dimethylsulfone (AOX) 11.30% 9.93% 9.37% 9.84% 8.82% 78.05% e.g. comp. 5 0.5% Oxynex ST (AOX) 11.16% 10.15% 9.43% 9.66% 9.00% 80.65% Ex. inv. 1 0.2% Tinogard TT (AOX) 10.94% 10.22% 9.50% 9.95% 9.50% 86.84% Better stability Ex. inv. 2 0.2% Tinogard TT (AOX) 9.54% 9.00% 8.49% 9.73% 9.20% 96.44% Confirmation of better stability; similar to Ex. inv. 1 e.g. comp. 6 0.5% sodium phytate (chelator) 10.53% 9.82% 9.16% 10% 8.97% 85.19% e.g. comp. 7 0.25% Dissolvine (chelator) 10.54% 9.82% 8.97% 10.11% 8.62% 81.78% e.g. comp. 8 0.5% chlorogenic acid (chelator) 11.01% 9.91% Tube burst 10.36% Tube burst Tube burst

Table 3 above shows the chemical stability evaluation of various antioxidants (AOX) and chelators in the representative formulation. The finished formulations in sealed aluminum tubes were placed in controlled chambers at 25°C and 45°C. A freshly made tube was also subjected to analysis to obtain the starting base active concentration (i.e. T0). After 1 month (T1M) and 2 months (T2M) in each temperature-controlled chamber, a tube of formula was subjected to quantitative analysis of the active ingredient. The initial sample (T0M) was then compared to the high temperature aged sample (T2M45C).

In the case of the control example which contained only a chelator (i.e. EDDS = trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate), it was observed that vitamin C was not very stable and that after T2M at 45°C, the percentage of vitamin C remaining was about 77.43%. Next, different antioxidants as well as different chelators were evaluated and found that not all antioxidants and chelators were created equal. Invention Example 1 and Invention Example 2 exhibited the best stability for vitamin C, proving that the presence of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (i.e. Tinogard TT) combined with a chelator showed improved Vit C stability. Additionally, when pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate (i.e. Tinogard TT) was retained in the formula, but hydroxyacetophenone and a chelator were removed, stability was poor (see Comp. Ex. 1 and Comp. Ex. 2). Thus, the combination of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, hydroxyacetophenone and a chelator was necessary to achieve high chemical stability.

In the inventive examples, pure vitamin C could be stabilized with high chemical stability (>85%) even after 2 months at 45°C. This was in contrast to other formulas that did not contain the combination of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, hydroxyacetophenone and a chelating agent.

Chemical stability of vitamin C Formulas Description Initial T1M 25 T1M 45 T2M 25 T2M 45 % remaining Comments e.g. comp. 1 0.2% Tinogard TT without hydroxyacetophenone or EDDS 9.36% 7.55% 7.73% 5.56% 5.92% 63.25% Poor stability; shows that hydroxyacetophenone and a chelator (eg, EDDS) are needed e.g. comp. 2 0.2% Tinogard TT without vitamin E 10.11% 11.43% 10.79% 11.41% 10.40% 102.87% Better stability; shows that vitamin E is not necessary

In Table 4, Comparative Example 1 demonstrated that the combination of pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, hydroxyacetophenone and a chelator was required to achieve high chemical stability. It was also demonstrated with Comparative Example 2 that the presence of vitamin E is not necessary to stabilize the high level of vitamin C.

The term "INCI" is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a naming system provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising:
(a) from about 2 to about 20% by weight ascorbic acid;
(b) di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate;
(c) hydroxyacetophenone; And
(d) a chelating agent; And
wherein the cosmetic composition is an oil-in-water emulsion, and all weight percentages are based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the di-t-butyl pentaerythrityl tetrahydroxycinnamate is present at about 0.05 to about 0.5% by weight based on the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the hydroxyacetophenone is present from about 0.1 to about 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the chelating agent is chosen from trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate, sodium phytate, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate, and a mixture thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the chelating agent is trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, in which the chelating agent is present at about 0.01 to about 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more fatty compounds. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising one or more polyols. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 8, in which the one or more polyols are chosen from caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerine, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. Process for treating the skin comprising the application of a cosmetic composition according to claim 1 to the skin.