FR3124951A1 - Cosmetic kit and method for making up eyelashes - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic kit and method for making up the eyelashes The invention relates to a cosmetic kit for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising: (i) a composition for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, the composition comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium, at least one particle chosen from coloring and non-dying materials, and at least one polymeric dispersing agent, and/or the composition having an intrinsic coating capacity (IEC) greater than 1 mg, (ii) an applicator comprising a gripping member (12) and an application member (14) carried or able to be carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20) and a plurality of discs (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20). Figure for the abstract: figure 1

Description

Cosmetic kit and method for making up eyelashes

The present invention relates to a cosmetic kit for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising a specific composition and applicator; and a cosmetic process for coating and/or caring for keratin materials using this kit.

It is known to use mascaras to make the eyelashes more visible and therefore more attractive. The term "mascara" means a composition intended to be applied to the eyelashes: it may be an eyelash makeup composition, an eyelash makeup base (also called a base coat), a composition to be applied on a mascara, also called a top-coat, or even a cosmetic treatment composition for the eyelashes. The mascara is more particularly intended for the eyelashes of human beings, but also for false eyelashes.

However, the make-up is often tedious, in particular long and difficult to achieve and/or reproduce, imperfect in the sense that it may be irregular and/or have defects (for example grains), and/or of insufficient visual impact or unsuited to the needs of users and of the moment. In addition, in use, mascaras have certain disadvantages: their properties change over time, they cannot be used to the end... Most of the time these problems come from the fact that it is necessary to apply many strokes brush to achieve the desired result, during which the mascara dries and forms grains which accumulate on the eyelashes, on the brush and in the hot water bottle, which degrades the make-up but also the quality of the product.

Thus, there is a need for regular and very filling eyelash makeup (i.e. very volumizing), in a single gesture. Such makeup would be a major step forward in solving the aforementioned problems.

Current mascaras do not offer this possibility, unless you are satisfied with light make-up, because they do not make it possible to deposit enough product in one go. However, consumer expectations in terms of volume are high.

The present invention meets the above-mentioned need, and allows regular and very heavy makeup of the eyelashes, and this, in a single gesture. The make-up obtained is homogeneous and distributed over the entire fringe of eyelashes.

The subject of the present invention is thus a cosmetic kit for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising:

(i) a composition for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium, at least one particle chosen from coloring and non-coloring materials, and at least one polymeric dispersing agent (“composition according to the invention”), and

(ii) an applicator comprising a gripping member (12) and an applicator member (14) carried or capable of being carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20) and a plurality discs (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20) (“applicator according to the invention”).

A subject of the present invention is also a process for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows , using the applicator according to the invention.

The cosmetic kit according to the invention comprises a coating composition having a high Intrinsic Coating Capacity (IEC). The IEC characterizes the charging potential. The IEC characterization method, in particular using a robot as shown in the example, makes it possible to overcome the constraint effect of conventional mascara applicators (such as fiber brushes and elastomer brushes).

Preferably, the composition of such a kit has an intrinsic coating capacity (IEC) greater than 1 mg, preferably greater than 2 mg, preferably greater than 3 mg, preferably greater than 4 mg, after a single pass on said keratin materials.

Composition according to the invention

The composition according to the invention thus comprises:

- at least one physiologically acceptable medium,

- at least one particle chosen from coloring and non-colouring materials, and

- at least one polymeric dispersing agent.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition and in particular a mascara.

agent dis polymeric persant

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polymeric dispersing agent, in particular capable of dispersing the solid particles in the composition.

The polymeric dispersing agent is preferably water-soluble. By "water-soluble" polymeric dispersing agent is meant a polymeric dispersing agent which, introduced into water at a concentration equal to 1%, results in a macroscopically homogeneous solution whose transmittance of light, at a wavelength equal at 500 nm, through a 1 cm thick sample, is at least 10%.

Preferably, the dispersant polymers according to the invention are chosen from acrylic copolymers. Mention may be made of sodium polymethacrylate, styrene / maleic anhydride copolymers or even copolymers which consist of a main chain and one or more side chains grafted (s) optionally substituted (s) in its (their ) terminated by an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.

Among the acrylic copolymers, mention may be made of sodium polymethacrylate such as Darvan 7-N marketed by the company Vanderbilt, the styrene/maleic anhydride copolymer marketed under the name SMA 1000 HNA by the company Cray Valley.

Preferably, the polymeric dispersing agent comprises a main chain and at least one side chain grafted onto the main chain,

said main chain being derived from at least one monomer comprising at least one α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and at least one function chosen from the group consisting of the functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic acid salt and their mixtures;

said side chain comprising at least one linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said side chain being optionally substituted by a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant polymers consist of a main chain and several grafted side chains optionally substituted at their end by an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms.

In the context of the invention, and unless otherwise stated, the term “main chain” encompasses the terms “skeletal chain” or “skeleton” of the polymer. The main chain, comprising the highest number of carbon atoms, is differentiated from the side chains.

In the context of the present invention, the expression “chain (…) derived from at least one monomer” means that said chain corresponds to the polymer obtained by polymerization of said monomer.

The dispersant polymers according to the invention are therefore also referred to as "comb copolymers", the branches of the comb corresponding to the side chains (or pendant chains) consisting of grafts.

The main chain of the dispersant polymers according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid function or an ester or a salt thereof. It can also comprise mixtures of these functions, esters and salts.

The main chain can therefore comprise pendant functions COOH, COOAlk or COO ^- X ⁺ , or mixtures of these, where Alk represents an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and X represents an alkali or alkaline-earth metal , where X+ represents a quaternary ammonium.

By "alkyl group" is meant here a hydrocarbon-based, saturated, linear or branched aliphatic group comprising, unless otherwise stated, from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. By way of examples, mention may be made of the methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl or pentyl groups.

In the context of the present invention, the term "quaternary ammonium" denotes a cation obtained, in particular by alkylation, from an amine of formula NR ₁ R ₂ R ₃ , each of the groups R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , identical or different, representing H or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. In particular, the quaternary ammoniums according to the invention include the ammonium cation NH ₄ ⁺ .

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersant polymers consist of a main chain and several grafted side chains substituted at their end by an alkyl group comprising less than 6 carbon atoms, and preferably by a methyl group.

In the context of the invention, the expression "side chain grafted onto the main chain" means that the side chain is linked to the main chain by means of a covalent bond.

Mention may be made, for example, of poly(ethylene oxide) and/or poly(propylene oxide) chains grafted via an ester function to the main chain, the ester function possibly resulting from the reaction between a function carboxylic acid of the main chain monomer and a hydroxyl function of the poly(ethylene oxide) and/or poly(propylene oxide).

In the context of the invention, the term "alkyleneoxy radical" means a radical
-A'-O- in which A' represents an alkylene radical. By "alkylene radical" is meant a divalent radical deriving from an alkyl group as defined above devoid of two hydrogen atoms. The alkyleneoxy radicals can be linear or branched, A′ can therefore represent a linear or branched alkylene radical, comprising in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms. Preferably, the alkyleneoxy radicals comprise 2 or 3 carbon atoms.

Mention may be made, for example, of the groups -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O- (ethyleneoxy),
-CH ₂ -CH(CH ₃ )-O-, -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -O- or -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O- (propyleneoxy).

In the context of the present invention, the side chains of the dispersant polymers can comprise mixtures of alkyleneoxy radicals of different sizes. According to this embodiment, the side chain may comprise a mixture of —(A′ ₁ —O) and (A′ ₂ —O)— radicals, A′ ₁ and A′ ₂ representing different linear or branched alkylene radicals. In particular, the side chain can comprise a mixture of ethyleneoxy and propyleneoxy radicals.

The side chain (or side chains) of the dispersant polymer may (may) be substituted by a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and preferentially 1 2 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the main chain of the dispersing polymer is derived from at least one monomer chosen from (meth)acrylic acids, their esters, their salts and mixtures thereof.

According to this embodiment, the main chain of the polymer is chosen from poly(meth)acrylic acids, poly(meth)acrylic acid esters, poly(meth)acrylates and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the main chain of the dispersing polymer is derived from a salt of methacrylic acid, in particular sodium methacrylate. According to this embodiment, the main chain of the dispersing polymer is sodium polymethacrylate.

The dispersant polymers comprise, in addition to the main chain, one or more side chains, grafted onto said main chain. In other words, the polymers according to the invention consist of a main polymeric chain comprising a given function (carboxylic acid, or a salt or ester thereof) via which the side chains are connected.

Dispersant polymers can be represented as consisting of a given number of repeating units including repeating units derived from (meth)acrylic acids, their esters, salts and mixtures thereof, and grafted units , derived from the above, comprising a graft comprising at least one alkyleneoxy radical as defined above, where appropriate substituted by an alkyl chain as defined above.

According to one embodiment, the dispersant polymer comprises at least one unsubstituted side chain. Preferably all side chains of the dispersant polymer are unsubstituted. The term "unsubstituted side chain" denotes a side chain as defined comprising at least one linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals, and comprising a terminal hydrogen atom.

According to one embodiment, the dispersant polymer comprises at least one side chain substituted by a methyl or ethyl, in particular methyl, chain. Preferably, the side chains of the dispersant polymer are substituted with a methyl chain.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer comprises at least one side chain consisting of ethyleneoxy, propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the side chains of the dispersant polymer consist of ethyleneoxy, propyleneoxy radicals or mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the side chains of the polymer can be distributed randomly, randomly or in the form of blocks (block or block copolymers).

The dispersant polymers according to the invention can be block copolymers corresponding to the assembly, on the one hand, of blocks with side chains and, on the other hand, of blocks without side chains.

Preferably, the side chains of the dispersant polymer are randomly or randomly distributed. Preferably, they are distributed statistically.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer according to the invention is linear. In particular, it is not a cross-linked polymer.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dispersant polymer is a comb copolymer comprising a main chain of polymethacrylic acid (or one of its salts) grafted by polyethylene oxide and/or polypropylene oxide side chains.

According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises from 20 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150, and preferentially from 50 to 100, alkyleneoxy groups.

According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises only ethyleneoxy groups.

According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises only propyleneoxy groups.

According to one embodiment, the side chain comprises a mixture of ethyleneoxy groups and propyleneoxy groups, the latter being distributed randomly or randomly.

According to one embodiment, the mass-average molecular weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 10,000 to 4,000,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 2,000,000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 30 000 to 1,900,000 g/mol.

Preferably, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 40,000 to 1,500,000, preferably from 42,000 to 1,000,000, preferentially from 45,000 to 500,000, and even more preferentially from 50,000 to 100,000g/mol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer ranges from 20,000 to 300,000 g/mol, preferably from 20,000 to 200,000 g/mol, and preferentially from 30,000 g/mol to 120,000 g/mol. Preferably, the weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer ranges from 40,000 to 80,000 g/mol.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersant polymer ranges from 50,000 to 90,000 g/mol, preferably from 70,000 to 80,000 g/mol. Preferably, the mass-average molecular mass (Mw) of the aforementioned dispersing polymer is equal to approximately 75,000 g/mol.

The choice of this appropriate range of molecular masses makes it possible to have a good compromise as regards, on the one hand, a limitation of the phenomena of depletion and, on the other hand, an efficiency not sensitive to the concentration.

According to one embodiment, the dispersant polymer according to the invention comprises at least one unit of formula (I) below:

(I)

in which :

• n is an integer ranging from 50 to 4000, preferably from 60 to 2500;

- i is an integer ranging from 1 to n;

• the groups R′ _i , which are identical or different, represent, independently of each other, H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms ; And

- the R _i groups, which are identical or different, are chosen, independently of each other, from the group consisting of: -C(=O)OH, -C(=O)O ^- X ⁺ and -C(=O) O-(A) _p -R _a , at least one of the groups R _i representing -C(=O)O-(A) _p -R _a , where:

• X is an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, in particular Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium; R _a represents H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4, and preferentially 1 or 2, carbon atoms;
• A represents a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof; And
• p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150.

The dispersing polymer according to the invention can therefore consist of the repetition of n units -CH ₂ -CH(R' _i )(R _i )-, each of these units possibly being identical or different, depending on the nature of R _i and R ' _i for each unit, and at least one of these units comprising a group -C (= O) O - (A) _p -R _a , corresponding to a grafted side chain.

According to one embodiment, the dispersant polymer according to the invention comprises at least one repeating unit (T ₁ ) and at least one repeating unit (T ₂ ), said repeating units having the following respective formulas:

in which :

• p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150;
• X is H or an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, and is in particular Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;
• R _a represents H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6, preferably from 1 to 4, and preferentially 1 or 2, carbon atoms;
• R and R', identical or different, represent, independently of each other, H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5, and preferentially 1 or 2, atoms of carbon, ; And
• A represents a C ₂ -C ₈ , preferably C ₂ -C ₃ , alkyleneoxy radical, linear or branched, or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer consists of x repeating units (T ₁ ) and y repeating units (T ₂ ), these units being distributed randomly or statistically, where:

• x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000, preferably from 60 to 1500; And
• y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000, preferably from 5 to 600; the sum x+y corresponding to the number n defined above.

According to the invention, the repeating units (T ₁ ) and (T ₂ ) can be alternated randomly in the aforementioned polymer.

According to the invention, the repeating units (T ₁ ) and (T ₂ ) can be randomly alternated in the aforementioned polymer.

According to the invention, the repeating units (T ₁ ) and (T ₂ ) can be distributed by blocks or sequences in the aforementioned polymer.

According to one embodiment, in the formulas (I), (T ₁ ) and (T ₂ ) defined above, X represents Na.

According to one embodiment, in formulas (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents H or a methyl group.

According to one embodiment, in formulas (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents H.

According to one embodiment, in formulas (I) and (T ₂ ) defined above, each R _a represents a methyl group.

According to one embodiment, in the formula (T ₁ ) defined above, R is H or a methyl group.

According to one embodiment, in formula (I) defined above, the R′ _i groups are H or a methyl group.

According to one embodiment, in the formula (T ₂ ) defined above, R′ is H or a methyl group.

According to one embodiment, in the formula (T ₂ ) defined above, the radical A corresponds to the following formula (II) or (III):

in which :

• A ₁ represents a -CH ₂ CH ₂ O- radical;
• A ₂ represents a -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )O- or -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -O- radical;
• j and k, which are identical or different, independently represent an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25;

provided that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably greater than or equal to 50.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing polymer corresponds to the following formula:

in which :

• R'a is H or CH ₃ ;
• x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000;
• y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000; And
• p is an integer ranging from 20 to 200,

the units -CH ₂ -C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH ₂ -C(R')(C(=O)O-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _p R'a )- being distributed randomly or statistically.

Preferably, the dispersing polymer corresponds to the following formula:

in which x, y and p are as defined above, the units -CH ₂ -C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH ₂ -C(R')(C(=O) O-(CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _p CH ₃ )- being distributed randomly or statistically, preferably statistically.

According to one embodiment, the dispersant polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and poly(ethylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.

According to another embodiment, the polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and poly(propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.

According to one embodiment, the dispersant polymer is a copolymer derived from methacrylic acid and poly(ethylene oxide)(propylene oxide) methyl ether methacrylate.

The dispersant polymer according to the invention is for example described in document US Pat. No. 6,034,208 and is obtained by known processes, and in particular by radical polymerization in solution, in direct or inverse emulsion, in suspension or precipitation in solvents, in the presence of initiator systems and transfer agents, or alternatively in controlled radical polymerization and preferably in polymerization controlled by nitroxides (NMP) or by cobaloximes, in polymerization by radical atom transfer (ATRP), in radical polymerization controlled by sulfur derivatives, chosen from carbamates, dithioesters or trithiocarbonates (RAFT) or xanthates.

It can be totally or partially neutralized by one or more neutralizing agents having a monovalent or polyvalent cation, said agents being preferably chosen from ammonia or from hydroxides and/or oxides of calcium, magnesium, or from hydroxides sodium, potassium, lithium, or among primary, secondary or tertiary aliphatic and/or cyclic amines such as preferentially stearylamine, ethanolamines (mono-, di-, triethanolamine), mono and diethylamine, cyclohexylamine, methylcyclohexylamine, amino methyl propanol, morpholine, and preferably in that the neutralizing agent is chosen from triethanolamine and sodium hydroxide.

It can also be separated into several phases, according to static or dynamic processes, by one or more polar solvents preferably belonging to the group consisting of water, methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanols, acetone, tetrahydrofuran or mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred mode of the present invention, the dispersing agent is a co-methacrylic acid methacrylic copolymer of POE PPO OH: Polyether polycarbonate, sodium salt in aqueous solution.

Preferably, the dispersant polymer has the INCI name Sodium Methacrylate/PEG/PPG-45/15 Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate Copolymer.

A composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total content of water-soluble polymeric dispersing agent(s) greater than or equal to 0.1% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, even more preferably in a content ranging from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content ranging from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

Physiologically acceptable medium

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

This physiologically acceptable medium comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase or at least one continuous oily phase.

Indeed, mascaras are essentially prepared according to two types of formulations: aqueous mascaras known as "cream mascaras", in the form of a dispersion of particles (in particular waxes) in water, or else anhydrous mascaras or mascaras with a low water content. , known as “waterproof” mascaras, in the form of a dispersion of particles (notably waxes) in organic solvents.

Continuous aqueous phase

According to a first embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase. This aqueous phase comprises water.

By “continuous” aqueous phase composition, it is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25° C., greater than 23 μS/cm (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measurement cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate the air bubbles liable to form between the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading is taken as soon as the conductivity meter value has stabilized. An average is calculated over at least three successive measurements.

Preferably, the continuous aqueous phase is present in a content greater than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably in a content greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the invention, preferably the continuous aqueous phase is present in a content of between 20 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The water is present in the continuous aqueous phase in a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the water content of the aqueous phase is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably, the water is present in a content of between 15% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A water suitable for the invention may be floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or a thermal water such as Saint-Gervais Mont Blanc thermal water.

The continuous aqueous phase can also comprise organic solvents that are miscible with water (at room temperature 25° C.) such as, for example, monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferentially having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol , hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl ethers of mono, di- or tripropylene glycol, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl ethers of mono, di - or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the continuous aqueous phase of the compositions of the invention comprises at least one monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and/or at least one polyol having from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the water-miscible organic solvent(s) is (are) present in the continuous aqueous phase in a content of between 1% and 20% by weight, of preferably between 2% and 15% by weight, preferably between 3% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase, it may comprise an oil dispersed within this aqueous phase.

Continuous oily phase

According to a second embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one continuous oily phase.

By “continuous” oily phase composition, it is meant that the composition has a conductivity, measured at 25° C., of less than 23 μS/cm (microSiemens/cm), the conductivity being measured for example using a conductivity meter MPC227 from Mettler Toledo and an Inlab730 conductivity measuring cell. The measurement cell is immersed in the composition, so as to eliminate the air bubbles liable to form between the two electrodes of the cell. The conductivity reading is taken as soon as the conductivity meter value has stabilized. An average is calculated over at least three successive measurements.

The continuous oily phase comprises one or more oils or non-aqueous fatty substances that are liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The oil can be chosen from volatile oils and/or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.

The oil or oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the keratin fibers in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0, 13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa at 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg). By “non-volatile oil”, is meant an oil remaining on the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ⁻³ mm of Hg (0.13 Pa).

These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters neopentanoate d isohexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8.10 ^-6 m²/s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of volatile alkyltrisiloxane linear oils of the following general formula:

where R represents an alkyl group comprising from 2 to 4 carbon atoms and of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted by a fluorine or chlorine atom.

Some of the oils above include:

3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

3-propyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane, and

3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane,

corresponding to oils for which R is respectively a butyl group, a propyl group or an ethyl group.

The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of:

hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel;

linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

synthetic esters such as the oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is ≥ 10, such as Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters;

fatty alcohols which are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol;

higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

carbonates,

acetates,

citrates,

and their mixtures.

The nonvolatile silicone oils that can be used in the composition according to the invention can be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

The fluorinated oils that can be used in the invention are in particular fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752.

The continuous oily phase may be present in a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the continuous oily phase content is greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably, this content is between 15% and 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Particles selected from coloring and non-colouring materials

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one particle chosen from coloring and non-colouring materials.

Preferably, the dyestuffs are chosen from pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the non-coloring materials are chosen from film-forming polymers, preferably latexes, fillers, waxes and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one coloring particle and at least one non-coloring particle.

Dyestuffs

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise at least one dyestuff.

In the context of the present invention, the dyestuffs used make it possible to provide the composition with a color preferably other than white.

This (or these) dyestuff(s) is (or are) preferably chosen from pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one powdery dyestuff. The pulverulent dyestuffs can be chosen from pigments and nacres, preferably from pigments.

The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and/or organic, coated or not. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments, of metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron, titanium or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica covered with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Examples of fat-soluble dyes are Sudan Red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C Orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto.

Preferably, the dyestuffs present in the compositions according to the invention are chosen from pigments, and preferably from metal oxides, and preferentially from iron oxides.

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff in a total content greater than or equal to 2% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 5% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. In particular, the dyestuff is present in a total content ranging from 8 to 35% by weight relative to the weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content ranging from 12 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and even more preferably in a total content ranging from 15 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise non-coloring materials chosen from film-forming polymers, preferably film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion, fillers, waxes and mixtures thereof.

Film-forming polymers

According to one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one film-forming polymer. The film-forming polymer can be chosen from film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion, water-soluble film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer(s) and optionally at least one additional film-forming polymer (not present in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles, such as a water-soluble film-forming polymer ).

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous deposit, and preferably a cohesive deposit, and better still a deposit whose the cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said deposit can be isolated and manipulated in isolation, for example when said deposit is made by pouring onto a non-stick surface such as a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one aqueous dispersion of particles formed from one or more film-forming polymers.

It may also comprise at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer. Thus, it may comprise at least one additional film-forming polymer, distinct from particles of film-forming polymer(s) present in the form of an aqueous dispersion.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a total dry matter content of film-forming polymer(s), that is to say of film-forming polymer(s) in aqueous dispersion and/or of polymer ( s) water-soluble film former(s), greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 6% and even more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion

Such a film-forming polymer is present in the form of particles in aqueous dispersion, generally bears the name of (pseudo)latex, that is to say latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

A dispersion suitable for the invention may comprise one or more types of particles, these particles possibly varying by their size, by their structure and/or by their chemical nature.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention comprises a total dry matter content of particles of film-forming polymer(s) in the form of an aqueous dispersion greater than or equal to 5%, preferably greater than or equal to 6%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

These particles can be of anionic, cationic or neutral nature and can constitute a mixture of particles of different natures.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, and mixtures thereof. In general, these polymers can be random polymers, block copolymers of the A-B type, multi-block A-B-A or even ABCD, or even graft polymers.

By “radical polymer”, we mean a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers with in particular ethylenic unsaturation, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The film-forming polymers of radical type may in particular be acrylic and/or vinyl homopolymers or copolymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and/or esters of these acid monomers and/or amides of these acid monomers.

As ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group or monomer bearing an acid group, it is possible to use α,β-ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic, itaconic acid. In particular, (meth)acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more particularly (meth)acrylic acid, are used.

The esters of acid monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth)acrylic acid (also called (meth)acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C1-C20 alkyl, plus particularly C1-C8, aryl (meth)acrylates, in particular C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth)acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

The esters of (meth)acrylic acid are in particular alkyl (meth)acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

As amides of acid monomers, mention may for example be made of (meth)acrylamides, and in particular N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth)acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide,

N-t-butyl acrylamide and N-t-octyl acrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acid monomers and/or their esters and/or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene of alpha-methyl styrene.

The list of monomers given is not exhaustive and it is possible to use any monomer known to those skilled in the art falling within the categories of acrylic and vinyl monomers (including monomers modified by a silicone chain).

As vinyl polymer, silicone acrylic polymers can also be used.

Mention may also be made of polymers resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers, inside and/or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas , polyesters, polyesteramides and/or alkyds. These polymers are generally referred to as "hybrid polymers".

As film-forming polymer of the polycondensate type, mention may be made of anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyureas/polyurethanes, silicone polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The film-forming polyurethane can be, for example, a polyurethane, polyurea/urethane, or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic copolymer, comprising alone or as a mixture at least one sequence chosen from:

- a sequence of aliphatic and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic polyester origin, and/or,

- a silicone block, branched or not, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and/or

- a sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

The film-forming polyurethanes as defined in the invention can also be obtained from polyesters, branched or not, or from alkyds comprising mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro , diamino or hydroxyamino), additionally comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or even a neutralizable tertiary amine group or a quaternary ammonium group.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may also be made of polyesters, polyester amides, fatty-chain polyesters, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Mention may be made, as examples of such acids, of: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2 -dimethylgluratic, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid cyclohexanedicarbocylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexa-nedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norborane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5- naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalene-dicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of two or more dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are chosen in particular.

The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic diols. In particular, a diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane.

Polyester amides can be obtained analogously to polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or para-phenylenediamine can be used. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, said at least one film-forming polymer in the dispersed state is chosen from acrylic polymer dispersions, polyurethane dispersions, sulfopolyester dispersions, vinyl dispersions, polyvinyl acetate dispersions , vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium chloride terpolymer dispersions, polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymer dispersions, dispersions of core-shell type particles and mixtures thereof.

Detailed below are various types of aqueous dispersions, in particular commercial ones, suitable for the preparation of the composition in accordance with the present invention.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer.

The acrylic polymer can be a styrene/acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer.

As styrene monomer that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of styrene or alpha-methylstyrene, and in particular styrene.

The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer is in particular a C1-C12 alkyl (meth)acrylate and more particularly a C1-C12 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

C1-C10. The C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer can be chosen from methyl acrylate, methyl methacrylate, ethyl acrylate, propyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, butyl acrylate, hexyl acrylate, octyl acrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl acrylate, lauryl (meth)acrylate and/or stearyl (meth)acrylate.

As acrylic polymer in aqueous dispersion, it is possible to use according to the invention the styrene/acrylate copolymer marketed under the name "Joncryl SCX-8211®" by the company BASF or "SYNTRAN 5760CG" by the company Interpolymer, the acrylic polymer marketed under the reference “Acronal® DS – 6250” by the company BASF or the acrylic copolymer “Joncryl® 95” by the company BASF.

According to a variant embodiment of the invention, the aqueous dispersion of polymer particles is an aqueous dispersion of particles of polyester-polyurethane and/or polyether-polyurethane, in particular anionic.

The anionic character of the polyester-polyurethanes and of the polyether-polyurethanes used according to the invention is due to the presence in their constituent units of groups with a carboxylic acid or sulphonic acid function.

The polyester-polyurethane or polyether-polyurethane particles used according to the invention are generally marketed in the form of aqueous dispersions.

The particle content of said dispersions currently available on the market ranges from about 20% to about 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion.

Among the anionic polyester-polyurethane dispersions which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of that marketed under the name “Avalure UR 405®” by the company NOVEON or “Baycusan C1004” by the company BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE.

Among the dispersions of anionic polyether-polyurethane particles that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of those marketed under the name "Avalure UR 450®" by the company NOVEON, and under the name "Neorez R 970®" by the DSM company.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a mixture of commercial dispersions consisting of particles of anionic polyester-polyurethane as defined above and particles of anionic polyether-polyurethane also defined above.

For example, it is possible to use a mixture consisting of the dispersion marketed under the name of “Sancure 861®” or a mixture of that marketed under the name of “Avalure UR 405®” and of that marketed under the name of “Avalure UR 450 ®”, these dispersions being marketed by the company NOVEON.

As aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use:

- the acrylic dispersions sold under the names “Acronal DS-6250®” by the company BASF, “Neocryl A-45®”, “Neocryl XK-90®”, “Neocryl A-1070®”, “Neocryl A-1090® “, “Neocryl BT-62®”, “Neocryl A-1079®” and “Neocryl A-523®” by DSM, “Joncryl 95®”, “Joncryl 8211®” by BASF, “Daitosol 5000 AD ®” or “Daitosol 5000 SJ®” by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; "Syntran 5760 CG®" by Interpolymer,

- aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names "Neorez R-981®" and "Neorez R-974®" by the company DSM, "Avalure UR-405®", "Avalure UR-410®", "Avalure UR -425®”, “Avalure UR-450®”, “Sancure 875®”, “Avalure UR 445®”, “Avalure UR 450®” by the company NOVEON, “Impranil 85®” by the company BAYER, “Baycusan C1004 ®” by BAYER MATERIAL SCIENCE,

- the sulfopolyesters sold under the brand name “Eastman AQ®” by the company EASTMAN CHEMICAL PRODUCTS,

- vinyl dispersions such as "Mexomer PAM", aqueous dispersions of polyvinyl acetate such as "Vinybran®" from the company Nisshin Chemical or those marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, aqueous dispersions of vinyl pyrrolidone, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and chloride of lauryldimethylpropylmethacrylamidoammonium such as "Styleze W ®" from ISP,

- aqueous dispersions of polyurethane/polyacrylic hybrid polymers such as those marketed under the references “Hybridur®” by the company AIR PRODUCTS or “Duromer®” from NATIONAL STARCH,

- dispersions of particles of the core-shell type such as those marketed by the company ARKEMA under the reference "Kynar®" (core: fluorinated-shell: acrylic) or those described in US Pat. No. 5,188,899 (core: silica - shell: silicone) and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, a composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic film-forming polymer(s) and derivatives, in particular of styrene-acrylic and derivatives, and dispersions aqueous polymer(s) of polyurethane(s), in particular of polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their mixture(s).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises an aqueous dispersion of acrylic particles, in particular that sold under the name "Syntran 5760 CG®" by the company Interpolymer whose INCI name is STYRENE/ACRYLATES/AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (and) SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (and) CAPRYLYL GLYCOL.

Water-soluble film-forming polymer

The compositions according to the present invention may comprise at least one water-soluble film-forming polymer.

Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises a total content of water-soluble film-forming polymer(s) ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8% by weight and better still from 0.4 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers include:

- proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins;

- cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;

- acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates;

- vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

- anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers,

- Arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, acacia gum;

- alginates and carrageenans;

- glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives;

- deoxyribonucleic acid;

- muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulphates,

- and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition in accordance with the invention comprises a cellulose polymer, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, in particular the product with the name CELLOSIZE QP 4400 H marketed by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemicals).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise an aqueous dispersion of acrylic polymer, in particular the Syntran 5760 dispersion^ marketed by the company Interpolymer and cellulose polymers, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose, in particular the product with the name CELLOSIZE QP 4400 H marketed by the company Amerchol (Dow Chemicals).

Wax

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

By wax is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25°C), deformable or not, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C which can go up to 120°C. In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45°C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.

By lipophilic compound is meant a compound having an acid number and a hydroxyl number of less than 150 mg KOH/g.

Within the meaning of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute. During the second rise in temperature, the variation of the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature. The melting point of the compound is the temperature value corresponding to the apex of the peak of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of temperature.

The waxes can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based and/or fluorinated and be of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

It is in particular possible to use as wax hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, japan wax, berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; montan wax.

According to a preferred embodiment, a hydrocarbon wax chosen from beeswax, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, and mixtures thereof will be used.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains.

Among these, mention may in particular be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil. , di-(1,1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S" by HETERENE, di-(1,1,1-1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrastearate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.

One can also use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57" or even the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with alcohol cetyl sold under the name "PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73", by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

It is also possible to use a silicone wax, in particular sticky, such as a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearoyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a 12- C20-C40 alkyl (12'-hydroxystearoyloxy)stearate, or a mixture of these compounds. Such a sticky wax is in particular sold under the names “KESTER WAX K 82 P” and “KESTER WAX K 80 P” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

Finally, mention may be made of microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers as well as their esters; silicone waxes and fluorinated waxes.

The wax may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, better still from 2 to 20% and even better still from 5 to 15% by weight.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is substantially free of wax. By "substantially free", it is meant that the composition comprises less than 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably less than 3% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise wax.

Charge

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler.

The filler can be inorganic or organic. The filler may be lamellar or non-lamellar in shape.

The filler is preferably chosen from silicone particles, polyamide particles, acrylic (co)polymer particles, polyurethane particles, talcs and mixtures thereof.

The silicone particles can be chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane particles, organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with silicone resin and organosilicone particles.

As polymethylsilsesquioxane particle, it is possible to use that marketed under the name TOSPEARL by the company Momentive Performance Materials, and in particular under the reference Tospearl 145 A.

The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with a silicone resin used according to the invention are described in particular in applications JP-A 61-194009, EP-A 242219, EP-A 295886 and EP-A 765656. Such particles of organopolysiloxane elastomers coated with silicone resin are notably sold under the names KSP 100, KSP 101, KSP 102, KSP 103, KSP 104 and KSP 105 by the company Shin Etsu and have the INCI name "Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer”. Advantageously, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane particle coated with silsesquioxane resin used in the compositions according to the invention corresponds to the INCI name “VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER” and is notably sold under the reference “KSP-100” by the company Shin Etsu .

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the elastomeric organopolysiloxanes in the form of spherical particles can be hybrid silicone particles functionalized with fluoroalkyl groups, in particular those sold under the name "KSP-200" by the company Shin Etsu; and, advantageously, hybrid silicone particles functionalized with phenyl groups, in particular sold under the name “KSP-300” by the company Shin Etsu. The hybrid silicone particles functionalized with phenyl groups according to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention correspond to the INCI name “DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER” and are notably sold under the reference “KSP-300” by the company Shin Etsu.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane particle coated with silicone resin is treated hydrophilically by association with at least one quaternary ammonium polymer, preferably chosen from polyquaternium-6 and polyquaternium -7, preferably polyquaternium-7.

Polyquaternium-6 is a poly(diallyldimethylammonium chloride).

Polyquaternium 7 is a copolymer of acrylamide and diallyldimethylammonium chloride.

Advantageously according to one embodiment of the invention, the crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane particle coated with hydrophilic treated silicone resin, used according to the invention, corresponds to the INCI name “VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER TREATED WITH PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE , POLYQUATERNIUM-7 AND METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG-8 GLYCERYL COCOATE” and in particular it is sold under the reference “MW-SRP-100” by the company Miyoshi Kasei.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the silicone particles are chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with a silicone resin. Even more preferentially, the silicone particles of the composition are chosen from “VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER” in particular sold under the reference “KSP-100” by the company Shin Etsu, “DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/VINYL DIPHENYL DIMETHICONE/ SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER" sold under the reference "KSP-300" by the company Shin Etsu and "VINYL DIMETHICONE/METHICONE SILSESQUIOXANE CROSSPOLYMER TREATED WITH PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE, POLYQUATERNIUM-7 AND METHYLSILANOL TRI-PEG-8 GLYCERYL COCOATE" in particular it is sold under the reference “MW-SRP-100” by the company Miyoshi Kasei, and mixtures thereof.

The silicone particle(s) are preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably in a total content greater than or equal to 11% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition.

The solid particles according to the invention can be chosen from one or more polyamide particles, in particular Nylon®, in particular “NYLON-12”.

The polyamide particles according to the invention have a volume-average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 0.5 to 100 μm, better still between 2 and 50 μm and even better still between 5 and 30 μm.

Among the fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide particles such as the product ORGASOL® 2002 EXS NAT COS marketed by the company ARKEMA.

These polyamide particles can be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent. The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acylated amino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

The preferred polyamide particles according to the invention are those corresponding to the INCI name “NYLON-12”.

The polyamide particles according to the invention are preferably present in a total content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a total content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, even more preferably in a total content greater than or equal to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a total content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The polyurethane particle is advantageously a copolymer particle of hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains a polyurethane particle which is not film-forming, that is to say which does not form a continuous film when it is deposited on a support such as the skin. The (poly)urethane particles according to the invention are present in a content greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content greater than or equal to 10% by weight relative to the weight total of the composition, even more preferably in a content greater than or equal to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular in a content ranging from 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition can also comprise ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as surfactants, fibers, cosmetic active agents and mixtures thereof.

As cosmetic active agents which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers and vitamins.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition envisaged.

In particular, the composition comprises at least one surfactant. This surfactant can be chosen from nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one nonionic surfactant. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant has an HLB at 25° C. of less than 8. The HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Reference may be made to the document “Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER”, volume 22, p. ^333-432 , 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant with an HLB at 25° C. of less than 8 is chosen from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene alcohols having from 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably ethoxylated C8-24 fatty alcohols, in particular _C16-24 , such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2) such as Brij 72 from Uniqema.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least one surfactant in a content ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight.

Dry extract

Within the meaning of the present invention, the “dry extract content” denotes the total content of non-volatile matter.

The amount of dry extract (abbreviated ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator “HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73” from METTLER TOLEDO. The measurement is made on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile materials have evaporated. This technique is fully described in the device documentation provided by METTLER TOLEDO.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, is spread on a metal dish which is introduced into the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 120°C for 60 minutes. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

The experimental error related to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.

The dry extract content is calculated as follows:

According to the present invention, the dry extract of the composition is greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 55% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 57% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In particular, the dry extract of the composition according to the invention is between 55 and 70% by weight of the total weight of the composition, even more preferably between 57 and 68% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

• at least one physiologically acceptable medium, which preferably comprises at least one continuous aqueous phase or at least one continuous oily phase, more preferably at least one continuous aqueous phase,
• 8 to 35% by weight relative to the weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 12 to 30% by weight, more preferably 15 to 25% by weight, of dyestuffs chosen from pigments, and preferably from metal oxides, and preferably among iron oxides,
• 5% to 25% by weight, preferably 6% to 20% by weight, preferably 7% to 18% by weight in dry matter relative to the total weight of the composition, of an aqueous dispersion of particles chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic film-forming polymer(s), in particular of styrene-acrylic, aqueous dispersions of polyurethane polymer(s), in particular of polyester-polyurethane and mixtures thereof,
• at least one cellulose polymer, in particular hydroxyethylcellulose,
• at least one filler chosen from silicone particles, polyamide particles, acrylic (co)polymer particles, polyurethane particles, talcs and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from polymethylsilsesquioxane particles, elastomer particles of organopolysiloxane coated with silicone resin and the organosilicone particles,
• from 0.01 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight of at least one surfactant, preferably nonionic having an HLB at 25°C of less than 8, preferably chosen from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, preferably oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene alcohols having from 1 to 15 ethylene glycol and/or propylene glycol units, preferably ethoxylated C8-24 fatty alcohols, in particular C _16-24 , such as ethoxylated stearyl alcohol comprising 2 oxyethylene units (INCI name: steareth-2), and
• at least one polymeric dispersing agent which comprises at least one repeating unit (T ₁ ) and at least one repeating unit (T ₂ ), said repeating units having the following respective formulas:

in which :

• p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200, preferably from 50 to 150;
• X is H or an alkali or alkaline-earth metal, and is in particular Na or K; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;
• R _a represents a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms, preferably a methyl;
• R and R′ are identical and each represent a linear alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5, and preferably 1 or 2, carbon atoms, preferably a methyl; And
• A corresponds to the following formula (II) or (III):

in which :

• A ₁ represents a -CH ₂ CH ₂ O- radical;
• A ₂ represents a -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -O- radical;
• j and k, which are identical or different, independently represent an integer ranging from 0 to 50, preferably from 0 to 25;

provided that the sum j + k is greater than or equal to 1, and preferably greater than or equal to 50,

said composition being substantially free of wax, preferably comprising no wax.

Applicator according to the invention

An applicator particularly suitable for applying the coating and/or care composition for keratin materials according to the invention will now be described, with reference to Figures 1 to 6:

there is a schematic side view of an applicator according to a first embodiment of the invention;

there is a schematic cross-sectional view of an applicator according to a second embodiment of the invention; And

FIGS. 3 to 6 are schematic side views of applicators according to third, fourth, fifth and sixth embodiments of the invention.

A first embodiment 10A of an applicator according to the invention is illustrated in the .

The applicator 10A comprises a gripping member 12 and an application member 14 carried or able to be carried by the gripping member 12.

The gripping member 12 is capable of being gripped by a user with a view to applying the coating and/or care composition of the invention to keratin materials.

The gripping member 12 extends along a longitudinal axis A to a distal end 16.

The gripping member 12 comprises for example a rod 18 elongated along the longitudinal axis A.

The rod 18 has for example a constant diameter along the longitudinal axis A, in particular between 3 mm and 8 mm, preferably between 4 mm and 6 mm.

Advantageously, the stem 18 has a diameter substantially equal to that of the applicator member. Such a variant is advantageous for obtaining better wringing of the applicator and avoiding an excessive non-wrung accumulation of cosmetic composition at the level of the proximal face 32 of the disc 22 closest to the stem 18.

Advantageously, the applicator member 14 is removable relative to the gripping member 12.

For this, one of the two members 12, 14 has for example an end piece, not shown, capable of cooperating with a fixing cavity, not shown, defined in the other of the two members 12, 14.

The applicator member 14 comprises at least one longitudinal support 20 extending along a guide curve C and a plurality of discs 22 extending transversely from the longitudinal support 20.

The guide curve C is for example defined as passing through the geometric center of the cross section of the longitudinal support 20.

The applicator member 14 preferably comprises a number of discs 22 comprised between 10 and 30, advantageously comprised between 15 and 25.

The applicator member 14 extends between a proximal end 24 and a free distal end 26.

The proximal end 24 is secured or capable of being secured to the gripping member 12, in particular the distal end 16 of the gripping member 12.

The length of the applicator member 14 is for example between 15 mm and 30 mm.

This length is for example defined as the distance between the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 of the application member 14, along the directing curve C.

In the example of the , the longitudinal support 20 is straight.

In addition, the longitudinal support 20 is aligned and in the extension of the rod 18 of the gripping member 12.

In other words, the directing curve C is here a straight line and is aligned with the longitudinal axis A.

The longitudinal support 20 is preferably here centered on the geometric center of each disc 22.

In particular, the guide curve C passes through the geometric center of each disk 22.

The longitudinal support 20 has a constant cross section outside the discs 22, along the directing curve C.

The cross section of the longitudinal support 20 has, for example, a largest dimension of between 1.5 mm and 5 mm.

The cross section is for example circular. Said largest dimension of the constant cross-section then corresponds to the diameter. Alternatively, the cross section may have any other shape.

In an exemplary embodiment, the longitudinal support 20 and the discs 22 are in one piece. In other words, they came from matter.

The longitudinal support 20 and the discs 22 are for example made of stainless steel or aluminum.

In the first embodiment 10A, each disk 22 has an outer peripheral contour 28 having a predetermined peripheral shape.

The predetermined peripheral shape is here circular. Alternatively, the predetermined peripheral shape has another shape, such as any shape, a quadrilateral shape, a polygonal shape, a parallelogram shape, a square shape, a rectangular shape, an oval shape, or an oblong shape.

As illustrated on the , the discs 22 have for example the same predetermined peripheral shapes.

Furthermore, the predetermined peripheral shapes have the same dimensions.

Each peripheral shape has a larger dimension, preferably between 3 mm and 8 mm, preferably between 4 mm and 6 mm. In the example illustrated where the peripheral shapes are circular, said largest dimension corresponds to the diameter.

In the first embodiment 10A, each disk 22 is full.

In particular, at least one surface, extending to the outer peripheral contour 28 and being contained in the disc 22, is solid.

Each disc 22 is thus in this example devoid of orifice or through hole.

Each disc 22 has a distal face 30 and a proximal face 32.

For each disc 22, the proximal face 32 of the disc 22 is intended to be closer to the gripping member 12 than the distal face 30 of the disc 22.

The distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of each disc 22 extend to said outer peripheral contour 28 of disc 22.

In the example illustrated, the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of each disc 22 are flat.

Each disc 22 advantageously has a constant thickness.

The thickness of a disc 22 is in particular defined here as the distance, taken along the longitudinal axis A, between the distal face 30 and the proximal face 32 of the disc 22.

Thus, by “constant thickness”, it is meant here that each region of disc 22 has the same thickness.

For each disc 22, the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of the disc 22 are parallel with respect to each other.

Each thickness is advantageously between 0.25 mm and 1.25 mm, preferably between 0.40 mm and 1 mm.

Advantageously, all the thicknesses of discs 22 are substantially identical.

By “substantially identical”, it is meant for example that each thickness is between 90% and 110% of the average of the thicknesses of the discs 22 of the applicator member 14.

In an exemplary embodiment, the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of each disc 22 extend perpendicular to the longitudinal support 20.

Generally, by "a face extends perpendicular to the longitudinal support 20", it is meant that the face extends perpendicular to a tangent to the guide curve C, the tangent being taken at the connection between the face and the support.

In a variant not shown, said faces extend in an inclined manner that is not perpendicular to the longitudinal support 20.

For each pair of two adjacent discs 22, each disc 22 has a face facing the other disc 22. One of said faces is the proximal face 32 of one of the two discs 22, and the other of said faces is the face distal 30 of the other of the two discs 22.

By “adjacent discs”, is meant two immediately adjacent discs 22 . In particular, two discs 22 are adjacent to each other if no other disc 22 is interposed between them.

Each disc 22 is longitudinally spaced from another adjacent disc 22 by a constant predetermined spacing.

The spacing between a pair of adjacent discs 22 is defined as the distance, taken along the longitudinal axis A, between the two facing faces of the discs 22.

Thus, by "constant predetermined spacing", it is meant here that, for each pair of adjacent discs 22, the two facing faces of the discs 22 are parallel with respect to each other.

Each spacing is advantageously between 0.30 mm and 2.5 mm. This spacing is for example taken at the level of the outer peripheral contour 28 of the two adjacent discs 22.

In the first embodiment 10A, all the spacings are substantially identical.

“Substantially identical” means for example that each spacing is between 90% and 110% of the average of the spacings of the applicator member 14.

Each pair of adjacent discs 22 defines a space 34 for receiving a cosmetic composition.

The reception space 34 is in particular delimited, in the longitudinal direction, by the two faces 30, 32 of the adjacent discs 22 arranged opposite.

The reception space 34 is also delimited radially by the longitudinal support 20 and by an envelope parallel to the longitudinal support 20 and flush with the outer peripheral contours 28 of the two adjacent discs 22.

The reception space 34 has a depth for example comprised between 0.5 mm and 2 mm.

By "depth" is meant in particular the difference between the largest dimension of the outer peripheral contour 28 of one of the two adjacent discs 22 and the largest dimension of the cross section of the longitudinal support 20 in line with the reception space 34 .

The reception space 34 advantageously has a volume of between 2 mm ³ and 100 mm ³ , preferably between 5 mm ³ and 50 mm ³ .

In the illustrated example of the , one of the discs 22 defines the proximal end 24 of the applicator member 14 and another of the discs 22 defines the distal end 26 of the applicator member 14.

In other words, as illustrated in the , the longitudinal support 20 stops at the proximal face 32 of the last of the discs 22 of the applicator member 14. The longitudinal support 20 does not project beyond the distal face 30 of the last of the discs 22 of the enforcement body 14.

As a variant of the first embodiment 10A, the longitudinal support 20 is offset transversely with respect to the geometric center of the discs 22.

In particular, the longitudinal support 20 is offset transversely relative to the rod 18 of the gripping member 12.

The longitudinal support 20 extends for example around the periphery of the discs 22.

The longitudinal support 20 then preferably is flush with the outer peripheral contour 28 of each disc 22.

In other words, the longitudinal support 20 is fully included in the outer peripheral contour 28 of each disc 22.

The longitudinal support 20 does not protrude transversely relative to the discs 22.

Such a variant confers an increased depth of the spaces 34 for receiving the cosmetic composition for the keratin fibres, during use.

A second embodiment 10B will now be described, with reference to the . Only the differences between the first and second embodiments will be described below.

There is a schematic cross-sectional view of the applicator 10B, taken perpendicular to the director curve C.

In the second embodiment 10B, each disc 22 is perforated.

More specifically, each disc 22 is perforated in its thickness.

On the , the perforated zones are designated by the reference 36.

Preferably, at least 50%, for example at least 70%, of the surface delimited by the outer peripheral contour 28 of the disc 22 is perforated.

Each disc 22 thus preferably comprises a ring 38 connected to the longitudinal support 20.

Preferably, each disc 22 further comprises at least one branch 40, the ring 38 being connected to the longitudinal support 20 by the or each branch 40.

In the example shown in the , the ring 38 is connected to the longitudinal support 20 by four branches 40. Alternatively, the ring 38 is connected by any other number of branch(s) 40, for example two, three, five or six branches 40.

Ring 38 defines said outer peripheral contour 28 of disk 22 and further defines an inner peripheral contour 42.

The inner peripheral contour 42 is at a distance from the longitudinal support 20.

The width of ring 38 is between 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm.

By "width" is meant here the radial distance separating the outer peripheral contour 28 from the inner peripheral contour 42.

Each branch 40 connects the inner peripheral contour 42 to the longitudinal support 20.

Alternatively, each disc 22 has no branch as defined above, the longitudinal support 20 is then transversely offset and passes through the ring 38 of each disc.

A third embodiment 10C will now be described, with reference to the . Only the differences between the first and third embodiments will be described below.

In the third embodiment 10C, the spacings of the applicator member 14 are not all identical.

At least two of the spacings are different.

In the third embodiment 10C, the respective spacings between pairs of adjacent discs 22 increase in the direction from one of the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 towards the other of the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 of the organ. application 14.

So, in the example of the , the respective spacings between pairs of adjacent discs 22 increase in the direction from the proximal end towards the distal end 26 of the applicator member 14.

For example, each spacing is different from the others. In other words, growth is strict.

Alternatively, it is nevertheless not a strict growth. For example, for at least two successive pairs of adjacent discs 22, the two spacings are equal. By “successive pairs” is meant two pairs of adjacent discs 22 having one disc in common.

Preferably, at least half, better still at least three quarters, of the spacings of the applicator member 14 are then different.

Advantageously, the increase between two different successive spacings is greater than or equal to 5%, for example greater than or equal to 15%.

In other words, when two successive pairs have different spacings, the spacing of one of the two successive pairs is greater than or equal to 105%, for example greater than or equal to 115%, of the spacing of the other of the two successive couples.

Preferably, the spacing of the torque at one of the proximal and distal ends 24, 26 of the applicator member 14 is greater than or equal to twice the spacing of the torque at the other of the proximal and distal ends 24 , 26 of the application member 14.

In the third embodiment 10C, the longitudinal support 20 is offset transversely relative to the geometric center of the discs 22.

In particular, the longitudinal support 20 is offset transversely relative to the rod 18 of the gripping member 12.

The longitudinal support 20 extends for example around the periphery of the discs 22.

The longitudinal support 20 then preferably is flush with the outer peripheral contour 28 of each disc 22.

As a variant of the third embodiment 10C, the longitudinal support 20 is centered on the geometric center of each disc 22.

A fourth embodiment 10D will now be described, with reference to the . Only the differences between the third and fourth embodiments will be described below.

As illustrated on the , the respective spacings between pairs of adjacent discs 22 increase in the direction from the distal end 26 towards the proximal end 24 of the applicator member 14.

A fifth embodiment 10E will now be described, with reference to the . Only the differences between the first and fifth embodiments will be described below.

In the fifth embodiment 10E, the spacings of the applicator member 14 are not all identical.

At least two of the spacings are different.

In the fifth embodiment 10E, the respective spacings of the pairs of adjacent discs 22 alternate successively between a first spacing and a second distinct spacing.

Thus, two successive spacings are different.

In other words, all the pairs of adjacent discs 22 respectively have either the first spacing or the second spacing.

In addition, two successive pairs of adjacent discs 22, having a disc 22 in common, respectively have said first spacing and said second spacing.

Preferably, the second spacing is at least greater than or equal to 1.5 times, advantageously at least greater than or equal to 2 times, better still at least greater than or equal to 3 times, the first spacing.

Such an alternation confers a double effect on the keratin fibres, namely both a visual effect of separation of the keratin fibers and a visual effect of significant loading of the cosmetic composition.

As an alternative to the embodiments described above, the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of each disc 22 are parallel and extend according to a non-perpendicular inclination with respect to the longitudinal support 20.

A sixth embodiment 10F will now be described, with reference to the . Only the differences between the first and sixth embodiments will be described below.

The applicator member 14 of this sixth embodiment 10F is for example obtained by machining a rod, for example in stainless steel, or by 3D printing.

In the sixth embodiment 10F, the proximal and distal faces 30, 32 of each disc 22 are inclined relative to each other and join at their peripheries.

The inclination of the faces 30, 32 is therefore not perpendicular to the longitudinal support 20.

In a variant not shown, the proximal and distal faces 30, 32 of each disc 22 have, for example, a flat region up to their peripheries and a rounding at the level of the longitudinal support 20.

Thus, within the meaning of the invention, the term “disc” does not necessarily designate a flat disc, and the term “face” does not necessarily designate a flat surface.

The outer peripheral contour 28 substantially corresponds to a peripheral line.

In particular, the outer peripheral contour 28 has a thickness less than one tenth of the thickness of the disc 22 at the level of the longitudinal support 20.

For each disc 22, the proximal and distal faces of the disc 22 are for example symmetrical to each other with respect to a plane passing through said outer peripheral contour 28.

Each disc 22 thus has a thickness which varies radially between the longitudinal support 20 and the outer peripheral contour 28.

The thickness of each disc 22 is maximum at the level of the longitudinal support 20.

The thickness of each disc 22, taken at the level of the longitudinal support 20, is advantageously between 0.3 mm and 2.5 mm.

In the sixth embodiment 10F, all the thicknesses of the discs 22, taken at the level of the longitudinal support 20, are substantially identical.

Each disc 22 is longitudinally spaced from another adjacent disc 22 by a spacing which varies radially between the longitudinal support 20 and the outer peripheral contours of the two adjacent discs 22.

Moreover, as illustrated, for each pair of adjacent discs 22, the two faces facing each other join at the level of the longitudinal support 20. The spacing is then substantially zero at the level of the longitudinal support 20.

In a variant not shown, for each pair of adjacent discs 22, the two faces facing each other are spaced even at the level of the longitudinal support 20. The spacing is then strictly non-zero at the level of the longitudinal support 20.

The spacing, taken at the outer peripheral contour 28 of the two adjacent discs 22, is advantageously between 0.30 mm and 2.5 mm.

In the sixth embodiment 10F, all the spacings, taken at the level of the outer peripheral contours of the adjacent discs 22, are substantially identical.

The applicator member 14 differs from a helix, since the spaces 34 for receiving the cosmetic composition are separated from each other. In particular, there are as many reception spaces 34 as there are pairs of adjacent discs 22.

Preferably, as illustrated in the , the applicator member 14 comprises, at its distal end 26, a terminal puck 44.

In other words, the distal end 26 of the applicator member 1 is not defined by one of the discs 22.

The discs 22 of the applicator member 14 are interposed between the proximal end 24 of the applicator member 14 and said terminal puck 44.

The terminal puck 44 has a proximal face 46 extending opposite the distal face 30 of the disc 22 that is adjacent to it.

The proximal face 46 of the terminal puck 44 is parallel to the proximal face 32 of the disc 22 which is adjacent to it.

The proximal face 46 of the terminal puck 44 has an outer peripheral contour 48 similar to that of the disk 22 which is adjacent to it.

The thickness of the terminal puck 44, at its outer peripheral contour 48, is for example greater than or equal to the maximum thickness of each disc 22 of the applicator member 14.

Advantageously, as illustrated in , the terminal puck 44 is extended by a cone 50 extending longitudinally to a longitudinal vertex 52.

The longitudinal vertex 52 of the cone 50 is centered on the guide curve C.

The longitudinal apex 52 thus forms the distal end 26 of the applicator member 14.

The distance, taken along the longitudinal axis A, between the longitudinal apex 52 and the terminal puck 44 is greater than or equal to the thickness of the terminal puck 44 taken at its outer peripheral contour 48.

Such a terminal puck 44 and/or such a longitudinal vertex 52 make it possible to obtain good wiping of the applicator 10F.

As an alternative to the embodiments described above, the longitudinal support 20 is curved.

The longitudinal support 20 then has a guide curve C that is not straight.

The director curve C in particular has only one radius of curvature.

The radius of curvature is for example defined in projection in a plane passing through the longitudinal axis.

The radius of curvature is not infinite here.

The radius of curvature is preferably between 5.0 cm and 9.0 cm.

Such a radius of curvature makes it possible to capture the entire keratin fiber fringe. In addition, this allows intuitive placement of the applicator member 14 with respect to the curvature of the eyelid.

Advantageously, despite the curvature, the distal and proximal faces 30, 32 of all the discs 22 are parallel to each other.

The invention also relates to any technically possible combination of the embodiments, alternatives and variants described above.

The invention also relates to a first embodiment of a kit comprising an applicator according to one of the embodiments, alternatives and variants above and the coating and/or care composition for keratin materials according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a second embodiment of a kit comprising a first applicator according to one of the embodiments, alternatives and variants above, and at least one second other applicator according to another of the embodiments, alternatives and variants above.

The second embodiment of the kit preferably comprises the composition for coating and/or caring for keratin materials according to the invention.

For example, the second embodiment of the kit includes:

- a first applicator according to the third embodiment 10C in which the respective spacings between pairs of adjacent discs 22 increase in the direction from the proximal end towards the distal end 26 of the applicator member 14; And

- a second applicator according to the fourth embodiment 10D in which the respective spacings between pairs of adjacent discs 22 increase in the direction from the distal end 26 towards the proximal end 24 of the application member 14.

This example of a second embodiment of the kit allows the user to use at her convenience the applicator with which she will be most comfortable, among the first and the second, depending on whether the user is left-handed. or right-handed.

The invention also relates to a third embodiment of a kit comprising a gripping member 12, at least a first and a second distinct application members 14, chosen from one of the embodiments, alternatives and variants listed above. -above.

The gripping member 12 is then separated from each of the first and a second application members 14.

For example, the first applicator member 14 is according to the third embodiment 10C of the applicator described above, in which the respective spacings between pairs of adjacent discs 22 increase in the direction from the proximal end towards the distal end 26 of applicator member 14; and the second applicator member 14 is according to the fourth embodiment 10D of the applicator described above, in which the respective spacings between pairs of adjacent discs 22 increase in the direction from the distal end 26 towards the end proximal 24 of the application member 14

This example of a third embodiment of the kit allows the user to use at her convenience the applicator member 14 with which she will be most comfortable, among the first and the second, depending on whether the user is left-handed or right-handed.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic kit for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising:

(i) a coating and/or care composition for keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, having an intrinsic coating capacity (IEC) greater than 1 mg, preferably greater than 2 mg, preferably greater than 3 mg , preferably greater than 4 mg, after a single pass of the applicator over said keratin materials, and

(ii) an applicator comprising a gripping member (12) and an applicator member (14) carried or capable of being carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20) and a plurality discs (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20).

Preferably, the composition (i) and/or the applicator (ii) is (are) as described above.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the following steps:

- supply of an applicator (a) comprising a gripping member (12) and an applicator member (14) carried or capable of being carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20 ) and a plurality of discs (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20);

- supply of a cosmetic composition (b); And

- application of the cosmetic composition to keratin fibers by the applicator (a), the keratin fibers being received between the discs (22) of the applicator member (14) of the applicator during application.

Preferably, the composition (b) and/or the applicator (a) is (are) as described above.

In particular, composition (b) advantageously comprises at least one physiologically acceptable medium, at least one particle chosen from coloring and non-dying materials, and at least one polymeric dispersing agent. Alternatively or additionally, said composition (b) has an intrinsic coating capacity (IEC) greater than 1 mg, preferably greater than 2 mg, preferably greater than 3 mg, preferably greater than 4 mg, after a single pass over said keratin materials.

The intrinsic coating capacity (IEC) is measured by the following method:

A test piece ("Monolash test piece") is used comprising 4 Tynex nylon fibers (Dupont), 100 μm in diameter, 13 mm in length, spaced 5 mm apart and held between 2 metal plates 3 mm thick which are fixed to one the other with a double-sided tape from 3M.

An applicator member comprising a stem is used, the stem having a diameter of 5 mm and comprising four peripheral circular grooves 1.5 mm deep (hereinafter “model applicator”). The grooves are regularly spaced so that only one fiber is received per groove of the applicator member during application.

A commercial reference LR Mate 200iC 6-axis robotic system from Fanuc gripping the applicator is also used.

A single application is carried out with the model applicator per specimen, and each application is carried out at a speed of 40 mm/s.

Before application, the mass m ₀ of each Monolash specimen is measured.

After the single application, the mass m _f of each Monolash specimen is measured.

The intrinsic coating capacity value (IEC) is determined from the relationship:

where m ₀ is the mass of the Monolash specimen before application,

m _f is the mass of the Monolash specimen after application, and

n is the number of coated fibre(s) of the specimen (in this case n=4).

Examples

The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

Unless otherwise indicated, the percentages of ingredients are given by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (% w/w).

1/ Applicators and formulas

Ten applicators and two formulas making it possible to illustrate the invention are chosen.

The applicator of each of these ten applicators is made of VisiJet M3 Crystal (MJP) material by MJP HD 3600 printer from 3D systems.

The various applicators according to the various embodiments indicated above are detailed in tables 1 to 4 below.

Commonly to the examples, the following characteristics should be noted.

The guide curves of the applicator members are substantially straight and pass through the geometric center of each disc.

Each disc has a circular outer peripheral contour. None of the discs is perforated.

The longitudinal support of each applicator member has a constant cross-section outside the circular discs.

Examples according to the first embodiment:

Reference D1:1 D1:2 D2:1 D2:2 Outer diameter of discs (mm) 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Disc thickness (mm) 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Constant spacing between discs (mm) 1.0 1.0 2.0 2.0 Groove depth (mm) 1.0 2.0 1.0 2.0 Number of discs 20 20 12 12 Total length of the applicator (mm) 30.5 30.5 30.5 30.5

Examples according to the fourth gradient embodiment: The spacing increases from the distal end to the proximal end:

Reference G0.5>2.3:1 G0.5>2.3:2 Outer diameter of discs (mm) 5.0 5.0 Disc thickness (mm) 0.5 0.5 Minimum spacing between discs (mm) 0.5 0.5 Growth of the gap between discs 10% 10% Maximum spacing between discs (mm) 2.3 2.3 Groove depth (mm) 1.0 2.0 Number of discs 18 18 Total length of the applicator (mm) 29.3 29.3

Examples according to the fifth alternating embodiment: The respective spacings alternate successively between the minimum spacing indicated and the maximum spacing indicated:

Reference A0.5/1.5:2 A1/2:2 Outer diameter of discs (mm) 5.0 5.0 Disc thickness (mm) 0.5 0.5 Minimum spacing between discs (mm) 0.5 1.0 Maximum spacing between discs (mm) 1.5 2.0 Groove depth (mm) 2.0 2.0 Number of discs 20 16 Total length of the applicator (mm) 30 30

Examples according to the sixth inclined embodiment: All the thicknesses of the discs, taken at the level of the longitudinal support, are substantially identical. All the spacings, taken at the level of the outer peripheral contours of the adjacent discs, are substantially identical.

The applicators do not have a terminal puck:

Reference I1:1 I2:1 Outer diameter of discs (mm) 5.0 6.0 Minimum spacing between discs, taken at the bottom of the grooves (mm) 0.0 0.0 Maximum spacing between discs, taken from the periphery (mm) 1.0 2.0 Groove depth (mm) 1.0 1.0 Number of discs 24 12 Total length of the applicator (mm) 25 25

The formulas will now be described.

• Comparative formula C (low Intrinsic Coating Capacity or IEC) with the following composition:

The Intrinsic Coating Capacity of a mascara formula characterizes its charging potential.

Formula C:

Ingredients Concentration (% w/w) Jojoba oil
(SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS (JOJOBA) BUTTER / SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS BUTTER)
B1575251 (Desert Whale, Vantage Spec. Chem.) 5.65 Carnauba wax
(COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX / COPERNICIA CERIFERA CERA) 3 Beeswax
(BEESWAX / CERA ALBA) 5 STEARETH-20 5.16 STEARETH-2 2.44 VP/EICOSENE COPOLYMER
B1180581 (ISP, Ashland) 1 Paraffin oil 2 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.2 Iron oxides (CI 77499) 7 POTASSIUM CETYL PHOSPHATE 2.53 Water Qsp 100 DISODIUM EDTA 0.1 Acacia gum 3 HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE 0.5 Conservatives Q's SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE 0.3 PEG/PPG-17/18 DIMETHICONE 0.25 STYRENE/ACRYLATES/AMMONIUM METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (and) SODIUM LAURETH-12 SULFATE
B1098946 (Interpolymer) 30 Ethanol 3 Scent 0.25 Castor oil
(RICINUS COMMUNIS (CASTOR) SEED OIL / RICINUS COMMUNIS SEED OIL) 0.02 Sweet almond oil
(PRUNUS AMYGDALUS DULCIS (SWEET ALMOND) OIL / PRUNUS DULCIS) 0.02 safflower oil
(CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS (SAFFLOWER) SEED OIL / CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS SEED OIL) 0.02 Argan Oil
(ARGANIA SPINOSA KERNEL OIL) 0.02 PANTHENOL 0.1

• Formula D according to the invention (with high IEC) with the following composition:

Formula D:

Ingredients Concentration (% w/w) Styrene/acrylates/ammonium methacrylate copolymer (and) sodium laureth sulfate (and) caprylyl glycol
(Syntran 5760 CG from Interpolymer) 21.60 Dimethicone 18.85 Iron oxides (CI 77499) 18.85 Water Qsp 100 Vinyl dimethicone/methicone silsesquioxane crosspolymer
(Shin Etsu KSP-100) 12.56 Propylene glycol 5 Ethanol 3 Polymeric dispersing agent according to the invention
2.08 Steareth-2 1 Conservatives Q's Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.60

2 / Makeup results “Monolash” test specimens by hand with formulas C or D

Protocol of m aquilage of the test specimens by hand :

The manual application gesture consists of a single translational movement, from the base to the end of the fibres. The quantity of formula deposited is determined by weighing the test specimen before and after make-up.

“Monolash” specimens used:

The IEC characterization method of a formula is based on the use of individual fibers, having geometric and mechanical properties similar to those of eyelashes, held on a test tube and made up by a single pass with each applicator.

Typically the specimen used comprises 4 Tynex nylon fibers (Dupont), 100µm in diameter, 13mm in length, spaced 5mm apart and held between 2 metal plates 3mm thick which are fixed to each other by a 3M double sided tape.

Results with applicators D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 :

A manual application of the comparative formula C according to the above protocol, repeated on three Monolash test tubes, with each applicator D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 makes it possible to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents four illustrations of the results obtained.

The D1:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 0.16±0.06mg.

The D1:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 0.30±0.13mg.

The D2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 0.20±0.14mg.

The D2:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 0.16±0.13mg.

A manual application of formula D according to the above protocol, repeated on three Monolash test tubes, with each applicator D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 allows to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents four illustrations of the results obtained.

The D1:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 3.7±0.9mg.

The D1:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 5.1±0.7mg.

The D2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 7.9±4.2mg.

The D2:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 7.9±1.2mg.

Thus, the combination of the formula and the applicator according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a much larger deposit than in the case of the comparative formula. The applicator of the invention therefore allows the formula according to the invention to express its full coating potential.

Results with applicators inclined I1:1 and I2:1 :

The effect identified above with the D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 applicators is also seen with the I1:1 and I2:1 applicators. Indeed, a manual application of the comparative formula C according to the above protocol, repeated on three Monolash test specimens, with each I1:1 and I2:1 applicator makes it possible to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents two illustrations of the results obtained.

The I1:1 and I2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 0.17±0.17mg.

The I1:1 and I2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 0.30±0.15mg.

In addition, a manual application of formula D according to the above protocol, repeated on three Monolash test tubes, with each I1:1 and I2:1 applicator allows to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents two illustrations of the results obtained.

The I1:1 and I2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 2.47±0.6mg.

The I1:1 and I2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 3.60±0.85mg.

3/ Makeup results hair test pieces with formulas C or D

Protocol of m aquilage of the test specimens by hand :

The manual application gesture consists of a single translational movement, from the base to the end of the fibres. The quantity of formula deposited is determined by weighing the test specimen before and after make-up.

Hair specimens used:

For this series of experiments, test specimens of false eyelashes ("Specimen With Segment of Eyelash 30 Knots Support 30x30mm PQ of 486" from SP Equation) are used.

Results with applicators D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 :

A manual application of the comparative formula C according to the protocol above, repeated on three test pieces of hair, with each applicator D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 makes it possible to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents four illustrations of the results obtained.

The D1:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 13±7mg.

The D1:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 10±1.2mg.

The D2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 34±24mg.

The D2:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 35±16mg.

A manual application of formula D according to the protocol above, repeated on three test pieces of hair, with each applicator D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 allows to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents four illustrations of the results obtained.

The D1:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 55±5mg.

The D1:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 71±15mg.

The D2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 76±8mg.

The D2:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 148±19mg.

In the case of the hair specimens, it is again observed here that the combination of the formula and of the applicator according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a much greater deposit than in the case of the comparative formula. Thus, the applicator of the invention allows the formula according to the invention to express its full coating potential.

In addition, we note that we will favor wider grooves (i.e. more spacing between discs) for more deposit, as shown by the comparison of the results of the D2:1 and D2:2 applicators compared to the results of the D1 applicators. :1 and D1:2.

In addition, we also note that we will favor thinner grooves (i.e. less spacing between discs) for more separation between the eyelashes, as shown by the comparison of the results of the D1:1 and D2:1 applicators.

In addition, we will favor deeper grooves for more regularity of the coating along each eyelash. Indeed, as shown by , the D1:1 applicator results in more coating on the base of the eyelash and less towards the tip, but the D1:2 applicator allows for greater regularity of the coating along each eyelash.

In any case, the use of the formula according to the invention in combination with the applicator according to the invention allows perfect loading of the lash fringe with the formula in a single make-up gesture.

Results with applicators inclined I1:1 and I2:1 :

Again, the effect identified above with the D1:1, D1:2, D2:1 and D2:2 applicators is seen with the I1:1 and I2:1 applicators. Indeed, a manual application of the comparative formula C according to the protocol above, repeated on three hair test pieces, with each applicator I1:1 and I2:1 makes it possible to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents two illustrations of the results obtained.

The I1:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 8.7±1.7mg.

The I2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 24.3±2mg.

A manual application of formula D according to the protocol above, repeated on three test pieces of hair, with each applicator I1:1 and I2:1 allows to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents two illustrations of the results obtained.

The I1:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 28.8±3mg.

The I2:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 68.2±9mg.

Results with applicators gradient G0.5>2.3:1 And G0.5>2.3:2 :

A manual application of formula D according to the above protocol, repeated on three test pieces of hair, with each applicator G0.5>2.3:1 and G0.5>2.3:2 makes it possible to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents two illustrations of the results obtained.

The G0.5>2.3:1 applicator provides an average deposit of 70±7mg.

The G0.5>2.3:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 92±25mg.

Compared to the previous figures, the clearly shows that the applicators according to the third and fourth embodiments of the invention make it possible to obtain a gradient effect of the deposit of the formula of the invention on the eyelashes, and this in a single makeup gesture. The visual appearance of the deposit on the eyelash fringe can therefore be modulated in a single gesture.

Results with applicators alternated G0.5>2.3:1 And G0.5>2.3:2 :

A manual application of formula D according to the above protocol, repeated on three test pieces of hair, with each applicator A0.5/1.5:2 and A1/2:2 makes it possible to obtain the results illustrated on the and described below.

There presents two illustrations of the results obtained.

The A0.5/1.5:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 81±13mg.

The A1/2:2 applicator provides an average deposit of 135±22mg.

Compared to the previous figures, the clearly shows that the applicators according to the fifth embodiment of the invention make it possible to obtain both a high load of the formula of the invention and good separation of the eyelashes, and this in a single make-up gesture.

Claims (17)

Cosmetic kit for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising:
(i) a composition for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium, at least one particle chosen from coloring and non-coloring materials, and at least one polymeric dispersing agent ,
(ii) an applicator comprising a gripping member (12) and an applicator member (14) carried or capable of being carried by the gripping member (12), comprising at least one longitudinal support (20) and a plurality discs (22) extending transversely from the longitudinal support (20). Cosmetic kit according to Claim 1, in which the physiologically acceptable medium of the composition is a continuous aqueous phase or a continuous oily phase. Cosmetic kit according to Claim 2, in which the composition comprises a continuous aqueous phase which comprises water and optionally at least one monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms and/or at least one polyol having from 2 to 20 carbons, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the polymeric dispersing agent comprises a main chain and at least one side chain grafted onto the main chain,
said main chain being derived from at least one monomer comprising at least one α,β-monoethylenic unsaturation and at least one function chosen from the group consisting of the functions: carboxylic acid, carboxylic acid ester, carboxylic acid salt and their mixtures;
said side chain comprising at least one linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture of alkyleneoxy radicals; said side chain being optionally substituted by a linear or branched alkyl chain comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the polymeric dispersing agent comprises at least one unit of the following formula:
(I)
in which :

• n is an integer ranging from 50 to 4000;

- i is an integer ranging from 1 to n;

• the groups R′ _i , which are identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; And

- R groups_I, identical or different, are chosen, independently of each other, from the group consisting of: -C(=O)OH, -C(=O)O^-X⁺and -C(=O)O-(A)_p-R_To, at least one of the groups R_Irepresenting -C(=O)O-(A)_p-R_To, Or :

• X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;
• R _a represents H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
• A represents a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof; And
• p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200.

Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the polymeric dispersing agent comprises at least one repeating unit (T₁) and at least one repeating unit (T₂), said repeating units having the following respective formulas:

in which :

• p is an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
• X is H or an alkali or alkaline earth metal; or X+ represents a quaternary ammonium;
• R _a represents H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms;
• R and R', identical or different, represent, independently of one another, H or an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; And
• A represents a linear or branched C ₂ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy radical or a mixture thereof.

Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 1 to 6, in which the polymeric dispersing agent corresponds to the following formula:

in which :

• R'a is H or CH ₃ ;
• x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000;
• y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000; And
• p is an integer ranging from 20 to 200,

-CH patterns₂-C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH₂-C(R’)(C(=O)O-(CH₂-CH₂-O)_pR a)- being distributed randomly or statistically,
preferably the polymeric dispersing agent corresponds to the following formula:

where x is an integer ranging from 50 to 3000; y is an integer ranging from 5 to 1000; and p is an integer ranging from 20 to 200, the units -CH₂-C(R)(C(=O)ONa)- and -CH₂-C(R’)(C(=O)O-(CH₂-CH₂-O)_pCH₃)- being distributed randomly or statistically, preferably statistically,
preferably, the dispersing polymer is Sodium Methacrylate/PEG/PPG-45/15 Hydroxypropyl Methacrylate Copolymer. Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the non-colouring materials are chosen from film-forming polymers, fillers, waxes and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic kit according to Claim 8, in which the film-forming polymer is chosen from film-forming polymers in aqueous dispersion, water-soluble film-forming polymers and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic kit according to Claim 8 or 9, in which the composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion, in a total dry matter content of particles of film-forming polymer(s) greater than or equal to 5%, preferably greater than or equal to 6%, even more preferably greater than or equal to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 8 to 10, in which the composition comprises at least one film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion chosen from aqueous dispersions of acrylic film-forming polymer(s) and derivatives, and aqueous dispersions of polymer ( s) polyurethane(s), in particular polyester-polyurethane, and their derivatives, and their mixture(s), preferably the film-forming polymer in aqueous dispersion is a styrene/acrylate copolymer, and in particular a polymer chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of at least one styrene monomer and at least one C1-C18 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer. Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 8 to 11, in which the filler is chosen from particles of silicone, particles of polyamide, particles of acrylic (co)polymers, particles of polyurethane, talcs and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from organopolysiloxane elastomer particles coated with silicone resin. Cosmetic kit according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition comprises at least one coloring particle and at least one non-colouring particle. Cosmetic kit according to one of the preceding claims, in which the composition is substantially free of wax, preferably does not comprise wax. Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 1 to 14, in which the composition has a dry extract greater than or equal to 50% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 55% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 57% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic kit according to one of Claims 1 to 15, in which the composition has an intrinsic coating capacity (IEC) greater than 1 mg, preferably greater than 2 mg, preferably greater than 3 mg, preferably greater than 4 mg, after a single pass over said keratin materials. Cosmetic process for coating and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows, comprising the application of the composition of a kit according to one of Claims 1 to 16 to the keratin materials, in particular the eyelashes or eyebrows , using the applicator provided.