FR3124716A1 - Composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, one (meta)silicate, glycine and N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid. - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, one (meta)silicate, glycine and N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid. The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one (meta)silicate, at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of solvates of its salts, and at least N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, one of its salts, solvates and/or solvates of its salts.

Description

Composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, one (meta)silicate, glycine and N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid.

The invention relates to a composition comprising at least one alkanolamine, at least one (meta)silicate, at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of solvates of its salts and at least N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, one of its salts, solvates and/or solvates of its salts.

The invention also relates to a process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, in particular the hair, using this composition.

The invention finally relates to the use of such a composition for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.

For a long time, many people have been looking to change the color of their hair, and in particular to hide their white hair.

It is known to dye keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, to obtain so-called permanent colorings with dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, in particular oxidation bases, such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols or heterocyclic compounds such as pyrazoles, pyrazolinones or pyrazolo-pyridines. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, associated with oxidizing products, can give rise by a process of oxidative condensation to colored compounds.

It is also possible to vary the shades obtained with these oxidation bases by combining them with couplers or color modifiers. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors.

However, the implementation of these dye compositions can have a certain number of drawbacks.

In fact, after application to the keratin fibers, the tinctorial power obtained may not be entirely satisfactory, or even low, and lead to a restricted range of colors.

The colorings may also not be sufficiently tenacious in the face of external agents such as light, shampoos, perspiration and also be too selective, that is to say that the difference in coloring is too great along the same keratin fiber which is sensitized differently between its tip and its root.

Lightening compositions may not perform well enough to achieve very light shades.

Furthermore, the coloring and/or lightening compositions often include raw materials for which the regulatory conditions are increasingly strict. It is therefore necessary to develop compositions comprising alternative compounds.

Consumers are also looking for more environmentally friendly coloring and/or lightening products, in particular based on ingredients of natural origin, and presenting good qualities of use, easy to use and leading with good dyeing and/or lightening properties.

Thus, there is a real need to provide a composition for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which is more environmentally friendly and does not have the drawbacks mentioned. above, that is to say which is capable of leading to a good build-up, intensity and chromaticity of the color when it comprises one or more colorants and/or good lightening performance while having a low selectivity and good tenacity and which is capable of leading to good dyeing performance or good lightening performance, making it possible, in particular, to obtain aesthetic blondes, even after a storage period, while having good use.

Furthermore, in order to accelerate the hair coloring process, it is generally carried out in the presence of alkaline agents, and the compositions most often comprise ammonia and possibly alkanolamines as the only alkaline agents.

However, these alkaline compositions generally include high levels of ammonia, which gives off a strong and unpleasant odor for users. These compositions can also alter the quality and/or the integrity of the keratin fibres.

There is therefore also a need to develop compositions that do not exhibit unpleasant odors during use, to minimize the alterations of keratin fibres, while maintaining a good level of efficacy, in particular when they are used in processes coloring or lightening of keratin fibres.

These objects and others are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a composition comprising:
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a composition for coloring keratin fibers, in particular the hair.

The composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to lead to chromatic colorations, powerful, intense and not very selective, that is to say colorations which are homogeneous along the fiber. It also makes it possible to achieve different shades in a very wide range of colors, in particular light shades. In addition, it allows a good build-up of the color.

This composition also makes it possible to cover depigmented keratin fibers, such as white hair, particularly well.

Furthermore, the composition according to the invention has good qualities for use, in particular a creamy texture allowing quick and easy mixing with an oxidizing composition if necessary, easy and homogeneous distribution over the whole of the hair. The composition according to the invention has good stability over time, in particular a slight change, or even no change in its viscosity during storage.

In addition, it has been observed that the use of a composition according to the invention, in particular during a process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, does not generate strong unpleasant odors for the user, while leading to good dyeing performance, or good lightening performance.

Furthermore, the keratin fibers retain good integrity after the treatment.

A subject of the invention is also a kit comprising, in a first compartment, a composition as defined above and, in a second compartment, an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.

By “ chemical oxidizing agent ” according to the invention is meant an oxidizing agent other than the oxygen in the air.

Other objects, characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will appear even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a domain of values are included in this domain, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

Furthermore, the expression “ at least one ” used in the present description is equivalent to the expression “ one or more ”.

Alkanolamine

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more alkanolamine(s).

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

The organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals, which may or may not be identical, are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention.

In particular, the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA), diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino- methane and their mixtures.

Preferably, the alkanolamine is monoethanolamine.

The total content of alkanolamine(s), preferably of monoethanolamine, preferably varies from 3 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight, better still from 8 to 30% by weight, even better from 9 to 25% by weight, or even from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Meta)silicate

The composition according to the present invention comprises one or more (meta)silicate(s).

The (meta)silicates are preferably chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates and their mixtures, preferably chosen from alkali metal silicates or metasilicates and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, the (meta)silicates are chosen from sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium metasilicate.

The total content of (meta)silicate(s) preferably varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better from 0.4 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

wisteria

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts.

The glycine salts are preferably chosen from alkali or alkaline-earth metal salts, preferably from alkali metal salts, better still from sodium glycinate, potassium glycinate, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use glycine addition salts such as addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulphonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

The glycine solvates are preferably chosen from hydrates.

The total content of amino acid chosen from glycine, its salts, its solvates and/or solvates of its salts preferably varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures.

The salts include alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts.

Among the salts of these compounds, the alkali metal salts, and in particular the sodium or potassium salts, are preferred.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA). For example, Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel will be used.

Preferably, the total content of compounds chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.075 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the weight composition total.

According to a preferred embodiment, the total content of tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) varies from 0.001 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.075 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

alkaline agent

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more mineral(s), organic(s) or hybrid(s) alkaline agents, different from the alkanolamines and (meta)silicates previously described.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more mineral(s), organic(s) or hybrid(s) alkaline agents, different from the alkanolamines and (meta)silicates previously described.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the terms “ alkaline agent ” or “ alkalizing agent ” are used interchangeably.

The inorganic alkalizing agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium (hydrogen)carbonate and potassium (hydrogen)carbonate, alkali metal or alkaline metal phosphates. earthy materials such as sodium phosphates or potassium phosphates, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof.

The organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from amino acids different from glycine, its salts, its solvates, solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof, organic amines different from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene ethylenediamines , 1,3 diaminopropane, spermine, spermidine and mixtures thereof.

The organic amine can also be chosen from organic amines of the heterocyclic type. Mention may in particular be made, in addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole, benzimidazole. The organic amine can also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of carnosine, anserine and balenine. The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. As amines of this type different from arginine which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2-([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1-sulfonic acid.)

The additional alkaline agent(s) useful according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from ammonia, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably from sodium hydroxides or potassium and mixtures thereof, more preferably sodium hydroxide.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of ammonia.

When they are present, the total content of the alkaline agent(s) other than alkanolamines and (meta)silicates preferably varies from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, better from 0.1 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one embodiment, the pH of the composition according to the invention is between 8 and 13; preferably between 9.0 and 12.

The pH of the composition can be adjusted to the desired value by means of acidic or alkaline agent(s) usually used in dyeing keratin fibres, such as those described above, or even using buffer systems known to those skilled in the art.

Dyes

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more dye(s).

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes.

The dyes are chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof.

Direct dyes can be synthetic or natural.

By " direct dye " is meant colored species. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

These synthetic direct dyes are, for example, chosen from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which may be mentioned all the aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes in common use such as nitrobenzene, azo, hydrazono, nitrated ( hetero)aryl, tri(hetero)arylmethane, (poly)methine, carbonyl, azine, porphyrin, metalloporphyrine, quinone and in particular anthraquinone, indoamine, phthalocyanine and mixtures thereof.

Among the nitrobenzene direct dyes, mention may be made of: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylaminobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1,4-bis(β-hydroxyethylamino)-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-benzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-(ethyl)(β-hydroxyethyl)-aminobenzene; 1-amino-3-methyl-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-nitro-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene; 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1,2-bis-(β-hydroxyethylamino)-4-nitrobenzene; 1-amino-2-tris-(hydroxymethyl)-methylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-Methoxy-2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-β,γ-dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene; 1-β-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-6-bis-(β-hydroxyethyl)-amino-3-nitrobenzene; 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene; 1-Hydroxy-4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene.

Azo direct dyes include: Basic Red 51, Basic Orange 31, Disperse Red 17, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Black 1, Basic Red 22, Basic Red 76, Basic Yellow 57, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Orange 24, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16, Basic Brown 17.

Among the hydrazono direct dyes, we can mention: Basic Yellow 87.

Among the nitro aryl direct dyes, mention may be made of: HC Blue 2, HC Yellow 2, HC Red 3,4-hydroxypropylamino-3-nitrophenol, N, N′-bis-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-nitro-phenylenediamine.

Among the triarylmethane direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Violet 1, Basic Violet 2, Basic Violet 3, Basic Violet 4, Basic Violet 14, Basic Blue 1, Basic Blue 7, Basic Blue 26, Basic green 1, Basic Blue 77 ( also called HC Blue 15), Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.

Quinone direct dyes include: Disperse Red 15, Solvent Violet 13, Acid Violet 43, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Blue 1, Disperse Violet 8, Disperse Blue 3, Disperse Red 11, Acid Blue 62, Disperse Blue 7, Basic Blue 22, Disperse Violet 15, Basic Blue 99, as well as the following compounds: 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone, 1-aminopropylamino-anthraquinone, 5-β-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone, 2-aminoethylamino-anthraquinone, 1,4-bis-(β,γ-dihydroxypropylamino)-anthraquinone, Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Mordant Red 3, Acid Black 48, HC Blue 16.

Among the azine direct dyes, mention may be made of: Basic Blue 17, Basic Red 2.

Among the indoamine direct dyes are: 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-[bis-(β-4'-hydroxyethyl)amino]anilino-1,4-benzoquinone, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5-(2'-methoxy-4'-amino)anilino-1,4-benzoquinone,3-N(2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy)phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-N(3 '-Chloro-4'-methylamino)phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine, 3-[4'-N-(ethyl,carbamylmethyl)-amino]-phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1 ,4-benzoquinone imine.

The natural direct dyes are for example chosen from lawsone, juglone, indigo, leuco indigo, indirubine, isatin, hennotannic acid, alizarin, carthamine, morine, purpurin, l carminic acid, kermesic acid, laccaic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin, orceins, carotenoids, betanin, chlorophylls, chlorophyllins, monascus, polyphenols or orthodiphenols.

Among the useful ortho-diphenols according to the invention, mention may be made of: catechin, quercetin, brazilin, hematein, hematoxylin, chlorogenic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, L DOPA, cyanidin, (-)-epicatechin, (-)-epigallocatechin, (- )-Epigallocatechin 3-gallate (EGCG), Isoquercetin, Pomiferin, Aesculetin, 6,7-Dihydroxy-3-(3-hydroxy-2,4-dimethoxyphenyl)coumarin, Santalin A and B, Mangiferin, Butein, Maritimetin, Sulfuretin, Robteine, Betanidin, Pericampylinone A., Theaflavin, Proanthocyanidin A2, Proanthocyanidin B2, Proanthocyanidin C1, Procyanidins DP 4-8, Tannic Acid, Purpurogalline, 5,6-Dihydroxy-2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, Alizarin, Wedelolactone and the natural extracts containing them.

When the composition comprises at least one direct dye, they are preferably present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10 % by weight, better from 0.05 to 5%, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more dyes chosen from oxidation dyes.

The oxidation dyes can be chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally associated with one or more couplers.

Preferably, the oxidation dye or dyes comprise one or more oxidation bases.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more oxidation bases.

Oxidation bases can be present as salts, solvates and/or solvates of salts.

The addition salts of the oxidation bases present in the composition according to the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, methanesulfonates, phosphates and acetates, and addition salts with a base such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, the solvates of the oxidation bases more particularly represent the hydrates of said oxidation bases and/or the combination of said oxidation bases with a linear or branched C ₁ to C ₄ alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, salt solvates and mixtures thereof.

Among the para-phenylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl -para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N,N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-N,N-bis( β-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N,N-bis(ß-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-chloroaniline, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2 -fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine , N,N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N-ethyl-N-(β-hydroxyethyl)- para-phenylenediamine, N-(β,γ-dihydroxypropyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-(4'-aminophenyl)-para-phenylenediamine, N-phenyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para -phenylenediamine, 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N-(β-methoxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethylamino-5- aminotoluene and 3-hydroxy-1-(4'-aminophenyl)pyrrolidine and addition salts, solvates and/or solvates of their salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-(γ-hydroxypropyl)- para-phenylenediamine, 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine , 2-β-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3 -dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-para-phenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine and 2-β-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and/or the solvates of their salts.

Among the bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines which may be mentioned are, for example, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)-1,3-diaminopropanol, N ,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'-aminophenyl)ethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(β-hydroxyethyl )-N,N'-bis(4-aminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(4-methylaminophenyl)tetramethylenediamine, N,N'-bis(ethyl)-N,N'-bis(4'- amino-3'-methylphenyl)ethylenediamine and 1,8-bis(2,5-diaminophenoxy)-3,6-dioxaoctane and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and mixtures thereof.

Among the para-aminophenols which are mentioned are, for example, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4-amino- 3-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2-(β- hydroxyethylaminomethyl)phenol and 4-amino-2-fluorophenol and addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the ortho-aminophenols which may be mentioned are, for example, 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol and the salts of corresponding addition, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the heterocyclic bases which may be mentioned are, for example, pyridine, pyrimidine and pyrazole derivatives.

Among the pyridine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described for example in patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, for example 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-methoxyphenyl)amino-3 -aminopyridine and 3,4-diaminopyridine and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

Other pyridine oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are the 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine oxidation bases or the corresponding addition salts described, for example, in the application of patent FR 2 801 308. Examples which may be mentioned include pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-acetylaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-morpholin- 4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-2-carboxylic acid, 2-methoxypyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3- ylamine, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)methanol, 2-(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)ethanol, 2-(3- aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)ethanol, (3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-2-yl)methanol, 3,6-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine , 3,4-diaminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,7-diamine, 7-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid- 3-ylamine, pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine-3,5-diamine, 5-morpholin-4-ylpyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-3-ylamine, 2-[(3-aminopyrazol o[1,5-a]pyrid-5-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl)-amino]ethanol, 2-[(3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyrid-7-yl)(2-hydroxyethyl) amino]ethanol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-5-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-4-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin -6-ol, 3-aminopyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridin-7-ol, 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; 2-(4-dimethylpiperazinium-1-yl)-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine; and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts.

More particularly, the oxidation bases which are useful in the present invention are chosen from the 3 aminopyrazolo-[1,5 a]-pyridines and preferably substituted on the carbon atom 2 by:
a) a (di)(C1-C6)(alkyl)amino group, said alkyl group possibly being substituted by at least one hydroxy, amino or imidazolium group;
b) a heterocycloalkyl group containing 5 to 7 members and 1 to 3 heteroatoms, optionally cationic, optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C6)alkyl groups, such as a di(C1-C4)alkylpiperazinium group; Or
c) a (C1-C6)alkoxy group optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups such as a β-hydroxyalkoxy group and the corresponding addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts.

Among the pyrimidine derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described, for example, in patents DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triamino -pyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts, the solvates and solvates of the salts and their tautomeric forms, when a tautomeric equilibrium exists.

Among the pyrazole derivatives which may be mentioned are the compounds described in patents DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988, such as 4,5-diamino-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole, 3,4-diaminopyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(4'-chlorobenzyl )pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1,3-dimethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4 -amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazinopyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5- diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5 -diamino-1-ethyl-3-(4'-methoxyphenyl)pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino-5-(2'-aminoethyl)amino-1,3-dimethylpyrazole, 3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 1-methyl-3,4,5-triaminopyrazole, 3,5- diamino-1-methyl-4-methylaminopyrazole, 3,5-diamino-4-(β-hydroxyethyl)amino-1-methylpyrazole and the corresponding addition salts, solvates and solvates of the salts. It is also possible to use 4,5-diamino-1-(β-methoxyethyl)pyrazole.

A 4,5-diaminopyrazole will preferably be used and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate.

The pyrazole derivatives which may also be mentioned include diamino-N,N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and in particular those described in patent application FR-A-2 886 136, such as the following compounds and the corresponding addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino -3-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1, 2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di-(2-hydroxyethyl)- 1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3-(2-hydroxyethyl)amino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2 -amino-3-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5-(pyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2- dihydropyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5-(3-dimethylaminopyrrolidin-1-yl)-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydropyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy- 6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one their salts, their solvates and/or solvates of their salts.

2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1-one and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate will preferably be used.

Preferably, 4,5-diamino-1-(β-hydroxyethyl)pyrazole and/or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H,5H-pyrazolo[1,2-a]pyrazol-1 will be used. -one and/or 2-β-hydroxyethoxy-3-amino-pyrazolo[1,5-a]pyridine and/or a corresponding salt, solvate and/or salt solvate as heterocyclic bases.

Preferably, the oxidation base(s) are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, their solvates and /or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures.

When the composition comprises at least one oxidation base, preferably, the oxidation base(s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition comprises at least one oxidation base chosen from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures, the latter is (are) present in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%, even better, from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition .

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation bases chosen from para-phenylenediamine, para-toluenediamine, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

The oxidation dye(s) can also be chosen from one or more couplers, which can be chosen from the couplers conventionally used for dyeing keratin fibers.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more couplers.

Among the useful couplers according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts. , the solvates and solvates of their salts.

Mention may be made, for example, of 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino-5-ethylphenol, 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4- chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 2,4-diamino-1-(ß-hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-amino-4-(ß-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diaminobenzene, 1 ,3-bis(2,4-diaminophenoxy)propane, 3-ureidoaniline, 3-ureido-1-dimethylaminobenzene, sesamol, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy-N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 2,6-bis(ß-hydroxyethylamino)toluene, 6-hydroxyindoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 1-H-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, 2,6-dimethylpyrazolo[1, 5-b]-1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl[3,2-c]-1,2,4-triazole and 6-methylpyrazolo[1,5-a]benzimidazole, 2 -methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(ß–hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol nol , 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of salts and corresponding mixtures.

Preferably, the coupler(s) is or are chosen from: 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its salts addition, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of couplers which can be used in the context of the invention are chosen in particular from addition salts with an acid, such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates and addition salts with a base such as soda, potash, ammonia, amines or alkanolamines.

Furthermore, the solvates more particularly represent the hydrates of these couplers and/or the association of these couplers with a linear or branched C1 to C4 alcohol such as methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, n-propanol. Preferably, the solvates are hydrates.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of oxidation couplers chosen from resorcinol, 2-methyl resorcinol, 4-chloro resorcinol, their addition salts, their solvates, and the solvates of their salts.

When the composition comprises one or more oxidation couplers, the total content of the coupler(s) present in the composition according to the invention varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight. , better from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of couplers selected from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 at 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 at 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from hydroxyethyl-3-4-methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 at 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When present, the total content of the couplers chosen from 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts as well as their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts preferably ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.1 at 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the total content of the oxidation dyes preferably varies from 0.001 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 10% by weight, even better still from 0 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickening polymers

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more thickening polymer(s), preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides.

By “ polysaccharides ” is meant polymers which contain at least 11 monosaccharide units. Preferably, the polysaccharides of the invention comprise between 20 and 100,000 monosaccharide units.

The anionic polysaccharides according to the invention comprise one or more anionic or anionizable groups, and do not comprise a cationic or cationizable group.

The anionic polysaccharides useful according to the invention can be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnose; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulphate; anhydrogalactose sulphate.

The anionic polysaccharides of the invention can be natural or synthetic.

According to a particular embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from native gums such as:
• tree or shrub exudates including: gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); ghatti gum (polymer derived from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid); karaya gum (polymer derived from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid); tragacanth (or tragacanth) gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);
• gums from algae such as: alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid); carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulphate and anhydrogalactose sulphate);
• microbial gums such as: xanthan gums (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid); gellan gums (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term " microbial gums " means substances synthesized by fermentation of sugars by microorganisms.

According to a preferred embodiment, the anionic polysaccharides useful in the composition according to the invention are chosen from anionic gums, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferentially from xanthan gums .

When they are present, the total content of thickening polymers preferably varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When they are present, the total content of anionic polysaccharides as defined above preferably varies from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The total content of anionic microbial gums as defined above varies, when they are present, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Fatty substances other than fatty acids

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more fatty substances other than fatty acids.

The term “ fatty substance ” is understood to mean an organic compound that is insoluble in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) (solubility less than 5% by weight, and preferably less than 1% by weight, even more preferably less than 0.1% by weight). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms and/or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran ( THF), vaseline oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

Preferably, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are non-silicone.

“Non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing no Si—O bonds and “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one Si—O bond.

The useful fatty substances according to the invention can be liquid fatty substances (or oils) and/or solid fatty substances. By liquid fatty substance is meant a fatty substance having a melting point less than or equal to 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa) and by solid fatty substance is meant a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C. C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (differential scanning calorimetry or DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “MDSC 2920” by the company TA Instruments. In the present application, all the melting points are determined at atmospheric pressure (1.013.105 Pa).

More particularly, the liquid fatty substance or substances may be chosen from liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, non-silicone oils of animal origin, oils of the triglyceride type of vegetable origin or synthetic, fluorinated oils, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by a or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

As regards the liquid C6 to C16 hydrocarbons, the latter can be linear, branched, optionally cyclic, and are preferably chosen from alkanes. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin, and are preferably chosen from paraffin or vaseline oils (or mineral oil), polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof.

As hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, mention may be made of perhydrosqualene.

The triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin are preferably chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soy, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

As regards the fluorinated oils, these may be chosen from perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names “FLUTEC® PC1” and “FLUTEC® PC3” by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names “PF 5050®” and “PF 5060®” by the company 3M, or else bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name “FORALKYL®” by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name “PF 5052®” by the company 3M.

The liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. of carbon. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic alcohol will be used.

As regards the liquid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made in particular of the esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear in C1 to C26 or branched in C3 to C26 and saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyalcohols, linear C1 to C26 or branched C3 to C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid is branched.

Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl acetyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as 2-octyldodecyl isopropyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, use will be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

It is also possible to use the esters of di or tricarboxylic acids in C4 to C22 and of alcohols in C1 to C22 and the esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri-, tetra-alcohols. or C2 to C26 pentahydroxy.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides other than the anionic polysaccharides described above.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and derivatives thereof. in particular alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids can be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and fatty acids C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or their mixtures such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters and in particular the mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, of glucose or of methylglucose, and mixtures thereof, are used.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

According to one embodiment, the fatty substances useful according to the invention are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably from liquid hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, vegetable oils, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, more preferably from liquid fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance or substances are chosen from liquid fatty alcohols, in particular oleic alcohol.

The solid fatty substances preferably have a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s, measured at 25° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

The solid fatty substance or substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, waxes, ceramides and mixtures thereof.

By “fatty alcohol”, is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one OH hydroxyl group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated.

The solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols have an R-OH structure with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used are preferably chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated (mono)alcohols, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols which can be used can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture: myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol); cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol); stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol); arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol); behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol); lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol); cerylic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol); montanyl alcohol (or 1-octacosanol); myricyl alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachydic alcohol and mixtures thereof, such as cetyl stearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, mixtures thereof, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

The solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters that can be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or from C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and from Saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

It is also possible to use esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra-alcohols. or C2-C26 pentahydroxylated.

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, hexyl stearate, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate , and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, especially myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting temperature above approximately 40° C. and which can go up to at 200° C., and exhibiting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. In general, the size of the crystals of the wax is such that the crystals diffract and/or scatter the light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and form a microscopically homogeneous mixture, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture back to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax is obtained, which is microscopically detectable and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, plant or mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax, in particular of biological origin, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; Rice Bran Wax, Carnauba Wax, Candelilla Wax, Ouricury Wax, Alfa Wax, Berry Wax, Shellac Wax, Japan Wax, and Sumac Wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

Mention may also be made of C20 to C60 microcrystalline waxes, such as Microwax HW.

Mention may also be made of the polyethylene wax PM 500 marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

Mention may also be made of the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, C8 to C32. Among these, mention may in particular be made of isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, the hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE.

It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names of Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy)stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; particular mention may be made of carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, the microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax , such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and the polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin wax, petroleum jelly, lignite or ozokerite; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax, carnauba wax, candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as essential blackcurrant flower wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beeswax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

The ceramides or analogues of ceramides such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; particular mention may be made of ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogues which may be employed preferably correspond to the following formula: R³CH(OH)CH(CH₂GOLD²)(NHCOR¹), in which :
R ¹ denotes an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C fatty acids₁₄-VS₃₀, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid at C₁₆-VS₃₀;
R ² denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;
R ³ denotes a C hydrocarbon group₁₅-VS₂₆, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group possibly being substituted by one or more C alkyl groups₁-VS₁₄; it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C alpha-hydroxyalkyl group₁₅-VS₂₆, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C alpha-hydroxy acid₁₆-VS₃₀.

The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for whichR1denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C fatty acids₁₆-VS₂₂;R ² denotes a hydrogen atom andR ³ denotes a saturated linear group at C₁₅.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C ₁₄ -C ₃₀ fatty acids; R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R ³ denotes a -CH=CH-(CH2) ₁₂ -CH3 group.

It is also possible to use the compounds for whichR ¹ denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C fatty acids₁₂-VS₂₂;R ² denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical andR ³ denotes a C hydrocarbon radical₁₂-VS₂₂, saturated or unsaturated and preferably a group -CH=CH-(CH2)₁₂-CH3.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and their mixtures. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

The solid fatty substances are preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols, in particular from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol.

You can also use butters.

By “butter” (also called “pasty fatty substance”) within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Preferably, the butter(s) according to the invention have a melting start temperature above 25°C and a melting end temperature below 60°C.

Preferably, the particular butter or butters are of vegetable origin such as those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry ("Fats and Fatty Oils", A. Thomas, Published Online: 15 JUN 2000, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a10_173, point 13.2.2.2 Shea Butter, Borneo Tallow, and Related Fats (Vegetable Butters)).

Mention may more particularly be made of shea butter, Shea Nilotica butter ( Butyrospermum parkii ), Galam butter, ( Butyrospermum parkii ), Borneo butter or fat or tengkawang tallow) ( Shorea stenoptera ), Shorea butter, butter Illipé butter, Madhuca butter or Bassia Madhuca longifolia , mowrah butter ( Madhuca Latifolia ), Katiau butter ( Madhuca mottleyana ), Phulwara butter ( M. butyracea ), mango butter ( Mangifera indica) , Murumuru ( Astrocaryum murumuru ), Kokum butter ( Garcinia Indica ), Ucuuba butter ( Virola sebifera ), Tucuma butter, Painya (Kpangnan) butter ( Pentadesma butyracea ), Coffee butter ( Coffea arabica ) , apricot butter ( Prunus Armeniaca ), Macadamia butter ( Macadamia Ternifolia ), grapeseed butter ( Vitis vinifera ), avocado butter ( Persea gratissima ), olive butter ( Olea europaea ) , sweet almond butter ( Prunus amygdalus dulcis ) and t cocoa butter sunflower butter.

Shea butter is an example of a preferred butter.

As is known, shea butter is extracted from the fruits (also called “almonds” or “nuts”) of the Butyrospemim Parkii tree. Each fruit contains between 45 and 55% fat that is extracted and usually refined.

According to a preferred embodiment, the fatty substances other than the fatty acids useful according to the invention are chosen from solid fatty substances.

When they are present, the total content of the fatty substance(s) other than fatty acids preferably varies from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 25% by weight, and better still from 10 to 20 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substance(s) different from fatty acids, the total content of the solid fatty substance(s) different from fatty acids preferably varying from 5 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 8 to 25% by weight, and better still from 10 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances different from fatty acids, the total content of the liquid fatty substance(s) different from fatty acids varying, preferably, from 0.5 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, and better still from 2 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more solid fatty substance(s) different from fatty acids, preferably chosen from solid fatty alcohols and one or more liquid fatty substance(s) different (s) fatty acids, preferably chosen from liquid fatty alcohols.

Surfactants

The composition according to the present invention may also comprise one or more surfactants. These can be chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants and/or mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention comprises one or more surfactants.

The term “ anionic surfactant ” is understood to mean a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2-, SO3H, SO3-, OSO3H, OSO3-, H2PO3, HPO3-, PO32-, H2PO2, HPO2-, PO22-, POH and PO-.

As examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride-sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alpha-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-alkyl(C1-C4)-N -acyltaurates, salts of alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, salts of D-galactoside-uronic acids, salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl aryl ether acids -carboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; salts of fatty acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise mentioned) generally comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally designating a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C ₆ -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates ₂₄ and C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular of amino alcohols or salts of alkaline-earth metals such as the magnesium salt.

By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals and in particular sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

Any anionic surfactants present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulphate function.

As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids; polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and carboxylic alkylpolyglycoside esters.

Very particularly, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO) marketed for example under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

The anionic surfactants optionally present may be carboxylic acids comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, also called fatty acids, optionally in salified form.

For the purposes of the present invention, fatty acid means an acid comprising at least one linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms. of carbon, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

The carboxylic acids comprising at least 6 carbon atoms (or fatty acids) according to the invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated; in particular, they are not (poly)oxyethylene or (poly)oxypropylene.

They preferably have the structure R—COOH in which R denotes an alkyl or alkenyl group, linear or branched, C ₇ -C ₂₉ , preferably C ₉ -C ₂₃ , better still C ₉ -C ₁₇ .

Preferably, the fatty acid according to the invention is chosen from linear fatty acids, better still from linear unsaturated fatty acids, C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ , in particular C ₁₀ -C ₁₈ (R is a linear C ₉ alkenyl -C ₂₃ , even C ₉ -C ₁₇ ).

Mention may in particular be made of oleic, linoleic, linolenic and undecylenic acids and mixtures thereof. Preferably, oleic acid is used.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned above, fatty acids are preferably used.

The nonionic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition of the present invention are described in particular, for example, in “Handbook of Surfactants” by M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178.

As examples of nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of the following compounds, alone or as a mixture:
- oxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂₄ )alkylphenols;
- C ₈ to C ₄₀ alcohols, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated or glycerolated, they preferably contain one or two fatty chains;
- C ₈ to C ₃₀ fatty acid amides, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated;
- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols;
- esters of C ₈ to C ₃₀ acids, saturated or not, linear or branched, and of sorbitol, preferably oxyethylenated;
- esters of fatty acids and sucrose,
- (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl (poly)glucosides, (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkenyl (poly)glucosides, optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 oxyalkylenated units) and comprising from 1 to 15 glucose units, esters of (C ₈ -C ₃₀ )alkyl (poly)glucosides,
- oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not;
- ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates;
- N -alkyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )glucamine and N -acyl(C ₈ -C ₃₀ )-methylglucamine derivatives;
- amine oxides.

They are chosen, in particular, from alcohols, alpha-diols, (C ₁ -C ₂₀ )alkylphenols, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging in particular from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sorbitan containing from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ acyl)- aminopropylmorpholine.

The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably C12-C22 fatty acids, and of sorbitan can be chosen from:
Sorbitan Caprylate; Sorbitan Cocoate; Sorbitan Isostearate; Sorbitan Laurate; Sorbitan Oleate; Sorbitan Palmitate; Sorbitan Stearate; Sorbitan Diisostearate; Sorbitan Dioleate; Sorbitan Distearate; Sorbitan Sesquicaprylate; Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate; Sorbitan Sesquioleate; Sorbitan Sesquistearate; Sorbitan Triisostearate; Sorbitan Trioleate; Sorbitan Tristearate.

The esters (in particular mono, di, tri esters) of C8-C30 fatty acids (preferably C12-C18) and of polyoxyethylenated sorbitan having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide can be chosen from esters C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, polyoxyethylene sorbitan containing in particular from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, such as:
polyoxyethylene (4 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-21),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monolaurate (POLYSORBATE-20),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monopalmitate (POLYSORBATE-40),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monostearate (POLYSORBATE-60),
polyoxyethylene (4 EO) sorbitan monostearate (POLYSORBATE-61),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan monooleate (POLYSORBATE-80),
polyoxyethylene (5 EO) sorbitan monooleate (POLYSORBATE-81),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan tristearate (POLYSORBATE-65),
polyoxyethylene (20 EO) sorbitan trioleate (POLYSORBATE-85).

The polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular mono, di, tri, tetra esters) of C8-C30 fatty acid (preferably C12-C18) and of sorbitan, having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, can be chosen from polyoxyethylenated esters having in particular from 2 to 20 moles of ethylene oxide, such as: C12-C18 fatty acids, in particular lauric, myristic, cetyl, stearic acid, sorbitan, such as:
- the 20 EO polyoxyethylenated ester of sorbitan and cocoic acid (PEG-20 Sorbitan Cocoate)
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from to 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and of isostearic acid (such as PEG-2 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-5 Sorbitan Isostearate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Isostearate such as the product marketed under the denomination Nikkol TI 10 V by the Nikkol company),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and lauric acid (such as PEG-10 Sorbitan Laurate),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having from to 2 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and oleic acid with 10 oxyethylenated groups (such as PEG-6 Sorbitan Oleate; PEG-20 Sorbitan Oleate),
- polyoxyethylenated esters (in particular having 3 to 20 EO) of sorbitan and stea-ric acid (such as PEG-3 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-4 Sorbitan Stearate; PEG-6 Sorbitan Stea-rate).

The nonionic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 units of ethylene oxide, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still among (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, even better among (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides such as: coco glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside and cetearyl glucoside.

The cationic surfactant(s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

The fatty amines generally comprise at least one C ₈ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Among the fatty amines which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of stearyl amidopropyl dimethylamine and distearylamine.

As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made, for example:

- those corresponding to the general formula (X) next :
(X)
in which the groups R₈to R₁₁, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₈to R₁₁comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl groups, C alkoxy groups₁-VS₃₀, polyoxyalkylene (C₂-VS₆), C-alkylamide₁-VS₃₀, alkyl(C₁₂-VS₂₂)amidoalkyl(C₂-VS₆), alkyl(C₁₂-VS₂₂)acetate, and hydroxy-C₁-VS₃₀,X ^- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)- or alkyl(C₁-VS₄)aryl sulfonates.
Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), preference is given, on the one hand, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium , cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or, finally, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or marketed stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium chloride under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula ( XI ) below:
(XI)
in which R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides , phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )- or alkyl(C ₁ -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates.
Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts in particular of formula ( XII ) below:
( XII )
in which R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms, R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH2)3-N+(R16a)(R17a)(R18a), R16a, R17a, R18a, R18 , R19 , R20 and R21 group, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X- is an anion selected from the group consisting of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C1-C4)sulfates, alkyl(C1-C4)- or alkyl(C1-C4)aryl- sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.
Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula ( XIII ) below:
( XIII )
wherein: R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl groups and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, C1-C22 hydrocarbon R27 groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, C1-C6 hydrocarbon R29 groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom; R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; r1 and t1, identical or different, are 0 or 1; r2 + r1 = 2 r and t1 + t2 = 2 t, y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10, X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.
The R22 alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.
Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
When R23 is a hydrocarbon R27 group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
When R25 is a hydrocarbon R29 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated. or unsaturated.
Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.
Advantageously, y is equal to 1.
Preferably, r, s and t, which are identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
The anion X- is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (C1-C4) sulphate, alkyl (C1-C4)- or alkyl (C1-C4) aryl-sulphonate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function.
The anion X − is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulphate or ethyl sulphate.
The ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which: R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1, z is equal to 0 or 1, r , s and t are equal to 2; R23 is chosen from: the –C(O)R26 group, methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom, R25 is chosen from: the –C(O)R28 group, the of hydrogen, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched , saturated or unsaturated.
Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.
Mention may be made, for example, among the compounds of formula (XIII) of the salts, in particular the chloride or the methyl sulphate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, the latter may be the same or different.
These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or optionally oxyalkylenated alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.
Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.
The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester quaternary ammonium salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.
It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.
It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.
Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.
Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, preferably from fatty acids, ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, esters of C8-C30 fatty acids of ethoxylated sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the surfactant(s) are chosen from fatty acids, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still, from (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferably, the total content of surfactant(s) in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from fatty acids, preferably, the total content of fatty acids in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. weight, better from 0.5 to 8% by weight, even better from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

When the composition comprises one or more surfactants chosen from (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides, preferably, the total content of (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides in the composition preferably varies from 0.01 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 8% by weight, even better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures and
- at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises:
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof;
- at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof;
- at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides, better still from anionic microbial gums;
- at least one fatty substance other than fatty acids, preferably at least one liquid fatty substance and at least one solid fatty substance and
- at least one surfactant, preferably chosen from fatty acids, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl) polyglycosides and mixtures thereof.

Solvents

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one organic solvent.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic solvent.

By way of organic solvent, mention may be made, for example, of alkanols, linear or branched, C ₂ to C ₄ , such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, propane-1,3-diol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols or ethers such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the organic solvent(s) is (are) chosen from polyols, more preferably chosen from glycerol, propane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof.

The organic solvent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Furthermore, preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition. Preferably, the composition comprises water in an amount greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, better still greater than or equal to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more additives, different from the compounds of the invention and among which mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, different from those mentioned above, agents anti-dandruff, anti-seborrheic agents, anti-hair loss and/or regrowth agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, plasticizers, solubilizing agents, opacifying or pearlescent agents, antioxidants, hydroxy acids, fragrances, preservatives.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties inherently attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. .

The above additives may generally be present in an amount comprised for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the ready-to-use composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise chemical oxidizing agents.

Process

The present invention also relates to a process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably the hair, which comprises the application to said keratin fibers of an effective amount of a composition as defined above.

The composition can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres. At the end of the treatment, the keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally subjected to washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is mixed at the time of use with a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to this embodiment, at the time of use, the composition according to the invention is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a composition comprising:
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures,
And
an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

According to one embodiment, the method according to the invention comprises a step of mixing the composition according to the invention with an oxidizing composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent. This mixing step is preferably carried out at the time of use, just before applying the composition resulting from the mixture to the hair.

According to this embodiment, the process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time employment, of at least two compositions:
a) a composition comprising:
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures and
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

Preferably, the process according to the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, preferably the hair.

In a preferred embodiment, the process for dyeing keratin fibers, preferably the hair, according to the invention comprises the step of applying to the keratin fibers a composition resulting from the mixture, at the time of use, of at least two compositions:
a) a coloring composition comprising:
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures and
- at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, preferably at least one dye chosen from oxidation dyes and mixtures thereof, and
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide.

More particularly, the chemical oxidizing agent or agents are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as for example persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors and alkali or alkaline-earth metal percarbonates and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is chosen from hydrogen peroxide.

The oxidizing composition is preferably an aqueous composition. In particular, it comprises more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

It can also comprise one or more organic solvents chosen from those listed above; the latter representing more particularly, when they are present, from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition, and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

The oxidizing composition also preferably comprises one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids.

In addition, the oxidizing composition may comprise fatty substances such as those described above, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, liquid hydrocarbons comprising more than 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, surfactants, polymers.

Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition, when it is aqueous, is less than 7.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition comprises hydrogen peroxide as oxidizing agent, in aqueous solution, the concentration of which varies, more particularly, from 0.1 to 50%, more particularly between 0.5 and 20%, and even more preferably between 1 and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.

Preferably, at least one of the compositions (dyeing or oxidizing) is aqueous.

set

Another object of the invention is a device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition according to the invention and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition as described above.

The compositions of the device according to the invention are packaged in separate compartments, optionally accompanied by appropriate means of application, which are identical or different, such as paintbrushes, brushes or sponges.

The device mentioned above can also be equipped with a means making it possible to deliver the desired mixture to the hair, for example such as the devices described in patent FR 2586913.

The present invention finally relates to the use of a composition as described above for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably for coloring keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

Examples

In the examples which follow, all the quantities are indicated in mass percentage of active ingredient (AM) relative to the total weight of the composition (unless otherwise stated).

The coloring compositions A1 , A2 and the oxidizing composition O were prepared from the ingredients whose contents are indicated in the table below (% ai).

Coloring compositions

A1
(invention) A2
(comparative) PROPANEDIOL-1,3 5 5 XANTHAN GUM 0.2 0.2 OLEIC ACID 2.7 2.7 TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE 0.24 - ETIDRONIC ACID - 0.24 p-AMINOPHENOL 0.89 0.89 m-AMINOPHENOL 0.90 0.90 SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.52 0.52 GLYCINE 0.97 0.97 ETHANOLAMINE 12.17 12.17 SODIUM METASILICATE 0.75 0.75 COCO-GLUCOSIDE 1.87 1.87 ASCORBIC ACID 0.25 0.25 GLYCERIN 5 5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 16.3 16.3 OLEYL ALCOHOL 2.7 2.7 SODIUM METABISULPHITE 0.71 0.71 WATER Qs 100 Qs 100

Oxidizing composition

O TRIDECETH-2 CARBOXAMIDE MEA 0.850 TETRASODIUM ETIDRONATE 0.06 SODIUM SALICYLATE 0.035 GLYCERIN 0.5 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 2.28 CETEARETH-25 0.57 PHOSPHORIC ACID Qs pH = 2.2 +/- 0.2 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE 6 TETRASODIUM PYROPHOSPHATE 0.04 WATER Qs 100

Application protocol

At the time of use, each of the coloring compositions A1 and A2 is mixed with 1 time ½ its weight of oxidant O. Each of the mixtures is then applied to locks of 90% natural white (BN) and permed (BP) hair, as well as to moderately sensitized hair (SA20) at the rate of 5 g of mixture/g of hair.

After 30 min on a plate thermostated at 27° C., the hair is rinsed, washed with a standard shampoo and dried.

Results

The coloring of the hair is evaluated in the L*a*b* system, with a KONICA MINOLTA-CM-3600A spectro-colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included) in the CIELab system.

In this system, L* stands for clarity. The lower the value of L*, the more powerful the coloration obtained. Chromaticity is measured by the a* and b* values, where a* represents the red/green axis and b* represents the yellow/blue axis.

The results are shown in the table below.

Wick type Composition I* BN A1 + O (invention) 26.02 BN A2 + O(comparative) 29.93 BP A1 + O(invention) 24.75 BP A2 + O(comparative) 27.04 SA20 A1 + O (invention) 23.67 SA20 A2 + O (comparative) 27.51

Composition A1 according to the invention leads to a lower L* value, therefore to a more powerful coloration compared with comparative composition A2 .

Claims (21)

Composition comprising:
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof. Composition according to the preceding claim, in which the alkanolamine(s) are chosen from mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl radicals, preferably chosen from monoethanolamine , diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N,N-dimethylethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanol-amine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3 -propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane and mixtures thereof, better alkanolamine is monoethanolamine. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of the alkanolamine(s) varies from 3 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 7 to 35% by weight, better still 8 to 30% by weight, even better from 9 to 25% by weight, or even from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the (meta)silicate(s) are chosen from alkali or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates and their mixtures, preferably chosen from alkali metal silicates or metasilicates and their mixtures , more preferably sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate and mixtures thereof, more preferably sodium metasilicate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of (meta)silicate(s) varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferentially from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferentially from 0 2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of amino acid(s) chosen from glycine, its salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts varies from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 8% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 3% by weight, even better still from 0.4 to 2% by weight, or even from 0.5 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compounds chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures are chosen from salts of alkali metals, preferably tetrasodium glutamate diacetate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the total content of compounds chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and their mixtures varies from 0.001 to 15% in weight, more preferably from 0.005 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 8% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 5% by weight, even better from 0.075 to 2% by weight, even from 0.1 at 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one alkaline agent other than alkanolamines and (meta)silicates, preferably chosen from ammonia, sodium or potassium hydroxides and mixtures thereof, more preferably from hydroxides sodium or potassium and mixtures thereof, more preferably sodium hydroxide. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one thickening polymer, preferably chosen from polysaccharides, more preferably from anionic polysaccharides, better still from anionic microbial gums, more preferably from xanthan gums. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one fatty substance, other than fatty acids, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols, more preferably from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixtures such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one surfactant, the surfactant(s) being preferably chosen from anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably chosen from fatty acids , ethoxylated C8-C24 fatty alcohols comprising from 1 to 200 ethylene oxide groups, ethoxylated C8-C30 fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, (alkyl in C ₆ -C ₂₄ )polyglycosides and mixtures thereof, better still chosen from fatty acids, (C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl)polyglycosides and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and their mixtures, preferably from oxidation dyes and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one coupler, preferably chosen from 6-hydroxy benzomorpholine, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts, hydroxyethyl-3,4 -methylenedioxyaniline, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts, 2-amino 5-ethylphenol, its addition salts, its solvates and/or the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one oxidation base, preferably chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases, and the corresponding addition salts, solvates, solvates of the salts and mixtures thereof; more preferably from 2-methoxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-β-hydroxyethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2-γ-hydroxypropyl-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts, their solvates and/or the solvates of their salts and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, not comprising a chemical oxidizing agent. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 15, comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Process for dyeing and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising the application to said keratin fibers of the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims. Process for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably the hair, according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition defined according to Claim 17 is derived from the mixture of at least two compositions:
a) a composition comprising,
- at least one alkanolamine;
- at least one (meta)silicate;
- at least one amino acid chosen from glycine, one of its salts, one of its solvates and/or one of the solvates of its salts;
- at least one compound chosen from N,N-dicarboxymethyl glutamic acid, its salts, its solvates, the solvates of its salts and mixtures thereof;
- optionally at least at least one dye chosen from direct dyes, oxidation dyes and their mixtures, preferably from oxidation dyes and their mixtures and
b) an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Device with several compartments, preferably two compartments, for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, preferably the hair, comprising at least a first compartment containing a composition as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 16 and at least a second compartment containing an oxidizing composition comprising one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably hydrogen peroxide. Use of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 17, for coloring and/or lightening keratin fibres, and in particular the hair.