FR3118876A1 - KERATIN FIBER TREATMENT METHOD - Google Patents

Abstract

KERATIN FIBER TREATMENT METHOD The present invention relates to a combination of at least (1) the optional treatment of keratinous fibers with a first composition; (2) treating the keratinous fibers with a second composition; and (3) the treatment of the keratinous fibers with a third composition, in which the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives, the second composition comprises (b1) at least a cationic polyamino acid, and the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. The method according to the present invention can make combing of keratinous fibers such as hair easy, and can provide a smooth touch feeling of keratinous fibers such as hair. These effects can be maintained even after several shampoos. Figure for abstract: NONE

Description

KERATIN FIBER TREATMENT METHOD

The present invention relates to a method for treating keratinous fibres, preferably the hair, by a combination of three or more compositions, as well as a kit or a use relating to the method.

BACKGROUND OF THE ART

In the field of hair cosmetic treatment, it is preferable to make combing easy and smooth the touch feeling of the hair. In general, it is not easy to maintain hair's combability and smooth touch feeling of hair after multiple shampoos. There is therefore a need to propose a hair treatment which makes it possible to easily comb the hair and to make it smooth to the touch, in particular after several shampoos.

DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION

An object of the present invention is to provide a method for treating keratinous fibers such as the hair, which makes it possible to easily comb the hair and to give it a smooth feeling to the touch, in particular even after several shampoos of the keratinous fibers.

The above objective can be achieved by a process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising:

(1) optionally, treating the keratinous fibers with a first composition;

(2) treating the keratinous fibers with a second composition; And

(3) treating the keratinous fibers with a third composition,

in which

the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,

the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and

the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

The (a1) compound selected from urea and/or urea derivatives in the first composition may be selected from the group consisting of urea, hydroxyethylurea and a mixture thereof.

The amount of (a1) compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives in the first composition can range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and from more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The cationic moiety of (b1) cationic polyamino acid in the second composition may include at least one quaternary ammonium group.

The (b1) cationic polyamino acid in the second composition may be selected from the group consisting of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropylstardimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, conchiolin protein hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl steardimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the cationic polyamino acid(s) (b1) in the second composition may be 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight or more, and more preferably 0.5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The second composition may further comprise (b2) at least one hydroxy acid or a salt thereof.

The (c1) ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, in the third composition can be chosen from esters of

following general formula (I):

R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ ) _n -COO-R ₃ (I)

in which :

COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

OR ₃ represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,

Or

following general formula (II):

(II)

in which :

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,

COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below:

(III)

in which :

R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue,

Or

following general formula (IV):

HO-R _{1 '} -(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-) _h -OH(IV)

in which :

OR ₁ ''O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimer dilinoleic acid,

COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and

h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9.

The (c1) ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, in the third composition can be chosen from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/ dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of (c1) ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or its ester(s), in the third composition may be 0.5% by weight or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The third composition may further comprise (c2) at least one cationic surfactant.

The method according to the present invention may further comprise the step of:

(4) treatment of keratinous fibers with a fourth composition,

Or

the fourth composition comprises (d1) at least one aminosilicone.

The fourth composition may further comprise (d2) at least one silicone other than the aminosilicone (d1).

The present invention also relates to a kit for keratinous fibres, preferably the hair, comprising

(1) an optional first compartment comprising a first composition;

(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition; And

(3) a third compartment comprising a third composition,

Or

the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,

the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and

the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

The present invention also relates to a use of a combination of

(1) optionally treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition;

(2) treatment of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition; And

(3) treatment of keratinous fibers, preferably hair, with a third composition,

Or

the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,

the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and

the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof,

to improve the combing of the keratinous fibers and/or to improve the smoothness of the keratinous fibres.

After painstaking research, the inventors have discovered that it is possible to provide a method for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, which allows them to be combed easily and give them a smooth feeling to the touch, in particular after several shampoos of the keratinous fibers.

Thus, the present invention mainly relates to a method for treating keratinous fibers, preferably the hair, comprising:

(1) optionally, treating the keratinous fibers with a first composition;

(2) treating the keratinous fibers with a second composition; And

(3) treating the keratinous fibers with a third composition,

Or

the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,

the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and

the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

The method according to the present invention can facilitate the combing of keratinous fibers such as hair. This effect can be obtained immediately by the method according to the present invention. Therefore, instant gratification can be assured. Furthermore, this effect can be maintained even after several shampoos, and can therefore last for a long time, for example a week or several weeks.

The method according to the present invention can also provide a smooth feeling to the touch of keratinous fibers such as hair. Thus, the keratinous fibers treated by the method of the present invention can be smooth. This effect can be obtained immediately by the method of the present invention. Therefore, instant gratification can be assured. Furthermore, this effect can be maintained even after several shampoos, and can therefore last for a long time, for example a week or several weeks.

Further, the method according to the present invention can provide keratinous fibers such as hair with improved manageability. This effect can be obtained immediately by the method of the present invention. In addition, this effect can be maintained even after several shampoos. Thus, it is possible that the present invention provides keratinous fibers such as hair with a manageability which is easy to comb and which can last a long time, for example a week or several weeks.

The present invention can also strengthen keratinous fibers.

Without making it a theory, the method according to the present invention is supposed to repair the damage of keratinous fibers such as hair, both from the outside and from the inside of the keratinous fibers. The aforementioned effects of the present invention could be attributed to the repair of keratinous fibers.

The present invention can be used to treat, for example care for or condition, keratinous fibers such as the hair.

The present invention can be performed, for example, in a salon or at home.

The present invention will hereinafter be described in detail.

[Process]

One aspect of the present invention relates to a method for treating keratinous fibres, preferably the hair, comprising:

(1) optionally treating the keratinous fibers with a first composition;

(2) treating the keratinous fibers with a second composition; And

(3) treating the keratinous fibers with a third composition,

Or

the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,

the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and

the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

In other words, the method according to the present invention essentially requires the following steps

(2) treating the keratinous fibers with a second composition; And

(3) treating the keratinous fibers with a third composition.

On the other hand,

(1) treating the keratinous fibers with a first composition,

before step (2) is optional, and may not be necessary. However, it is better to perform step (1) before step (2).

{First composition}

The first composition which can be used in the present invention comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives (hereinafter, this compound can be denoted by (a1) compound). Two or more compounds (a1) can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of (a1) compound or a combination of different types of (a1) compounds can be used.

Urea is represented by the chemical formula: H ₂ N-CO-NH ₂

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “urea derivative” designates any compound other than urea CO(NH ₂ ) ₂ itself, comprising in its chemical formula a carbonyl group simply bonded to two nitrogen atoms, i.e. a pattern

The (a1) compound can be chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or (II), their salts or their hydrates:

(I)

(II)

in which :

R1, R2, R3 and R4 independently represent:

(i) a hydrogen atom or

(ii) a C ₁ -C ₅ lower alkyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C ₁ -C ₅ alkoxy radical, a C ₆ -C ₁₈ aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical of 5 to 8 links; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from among the radicals hydroxyl, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, (di)(C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)amino, preferably dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C ₆ aryl -C ₁₈ , carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

Being heard that :

when R1, R2 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R4 may denote a radical from: carboxamide, methoxy, ethoxy, 1,2,4-triazolyl, cyclopentyl, (C1-C6)alkylcarbonyl such as acetyl, (C ₁ - C ₆ ) alkoxycarbonyl such as methoxycarbonyl or ethoxycarbonyl, CO—CH=CH—COOH, phenyl optionally substituted by a chlorine atom or a hydroxy, benzyl or 2,5-dioxo-4-imidazolidinyl radical;

when R1 and R3 represent a hydrogen atom, R2 can represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl or ethyl radical and R4 can represent an acetyl radical;

when R1=R2=H, R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, a 5- or 6-membered ring such as a piperidine, 3-methylpyrazole, 3,5-dimethylpyrazole or maleimide ring;

R1 and R2 as well as R3 and R4 can form, with the nitrogen atom which carries them, an imidazole ring;

R5 and R6 represent, independently of each other, an imidazole ring:

(iii) a hydrogen atom or

(iv) a C ₁ -C ₅ lower alkyl, acyl or alkenyl radical, linear or branched, cyclic or acyclic, a C ₁ -C ₅ alkoxy radical, a C ₆ -C ₁₈ aryl radical, a heterocyclic radical of 5 to 8 membered; these radicals being optionally substituted by a radical chosen from the following radicals: hydroxyl, amino, dimethylamino, carboxyl, halogen, C ₆ -C ₁₈ aryl, carboxamide and N-methylcarboxamide;

A is a radical chosen from the following radicals: -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH═CH-, -CH ₂ -CO-, -CO-NH-, -CH═N-, -CO-CO-, - CHOH-CHOH-, -(HOOC)CH-CH-, -CHOH-CO-, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ -NH-CO-, -CH═C(CH ₃ )-CO -, -NH-CO-NH-, -CH ₂ -CH ₂ -CO-, -CH ₂ -N(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -, -NH-CH ₂ -NH-, -CO-CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -, -CO-CH ₂ -CO-, -CO-NH-CO-, -CO-CH(COOH)-CH ₂ -, -CO-CH═C(COOH)-, -CO-CH ═C(CH ₃ )-, -CO-C(NH ₂ )═CH-, -CO-C(CH ₃ )═N-, -CO-CH═CH-, -CO-CH═N- and -CO -N═CH-.

In a first particular embodiment of the present invention, the (a1) compound is of formula (I) and can be chosen from urea, methylurea, ethylurea, propylurea, n-butylurea, sec-butylurea, isobutylurea, tert-butylurea, cyclopentylurea, ethoxyurea, hydroxyethylurea, N-(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, N-(2-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, N-(3-dimethylaminopropyl)urea, 1-(3-hydroxyphenyl)urea , benzylurea, N-carbamoylmaleamide, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, piperidinecarboxamide, 1,2,4-triazol-4-urea, hydantoic acid, methyl allophanate, ethyl allophanate, acetylurea, hydroxyethylene-urea, 2-(hydroxyethyl)ethylene -urea, diallylurea, chloroethylurea, N,N-dimethylurea, N,N-diethylurea, N,N-dipropylurea, cyclopentyl-1-methylurea, 1,3-dimethylurea, 1,3-diethylurea, 1,3-bis(2 -hydroxyethyl)urea, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-bis(3-hydroxypropyl)urea, 1,3-dipropylurea, ethyl-3-propylurea, sec-butyl-3-methylurea, isobutyl -3-methylurea, cyclopentyl-3-methylurea, N-acetyl-N'-methylurea, trimethylurea, butyl-3,3-dimethylurea, tetramethylurea and a mixture of these compounds.

In a second particular embodiment of the present invention, the (a1) compound is of formula (II) and can be chosen from: parabanic acid, 1,2-dihydro-3H-1,2,4-triazol-2- one, barbituric acid, uracil, 1-methyluracil, 3-methyluracil, 5-methyluracil, 1,3-dimethyluracil, 5-azauracil, 6-azauracil, 5-fluorouracil, 6-fluorouracil, 1,3-dimethyl-5-fluorouracil , 5-aminouracil, 6-aminouracil, 6-amino-l-methyluracil, 6-amino-1,3-dimethyluracil, 4-chlorouracil, 5-chlorouracil, 5,6-dihydrouracil, 5,6-dihydro-5-methyluracil , 2-imidazolidinone, 1-methyl-2-imidazolidinone, 1,3-dimethyl-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxyimidazolidin-2-one, 1-(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 1-(2- hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 1-(3-hydroxypropyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 4,5-dihydroxy-1,3-dimethylimidazolidin-2-one, 1,3-bis(2-hydroxyethyl)-2-imidazolidinone, 2-Imidazolidone-4-carboxylic acid, 1-(2-aminoethyl)-2-imidazole, 4-methyl-1,2,4-triazoline-3,5-dione, 2,4-dihydroxy-6-methylpy rimidine, 1-amino-4,5-dihydro-1H-tetrazol-5-one, hydantoin, 1-methylhydantoin, 5-methylhydantoin, 5,5-dimethylhydantoin, 5-ethylhydantoin, 5-N-propylhydantoin, 5-ethyl- 5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxy-5-methylhydantoin, 5-hydroxymethylhydantoin, 1-allylhydantoin, 1-aminohydantoin, hydantoin-5-acetic acid, 4-amino-1, 2,4-triazolone-3,5-dione, hexahydro -1,2,4,5-tetrazine-3,6-dione, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinon-2-one, 1-methyltetrahydropyrimidin-2-one, 2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3 ,5-triazine, urazole, 4-methylurazole, orotic acid, dihydroxyorotic acid, 2,4,5-trihydroxypyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4-methylpyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-2,6-dihydroxypyrimidine, 1,3-acid dimethylbarbituric, cyanuric acid, 1-methylhexahydropyrimidine-2,4-dione, 1,3-dimethyl-3,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-(1H)-pyrimidinone, 5-(hydroxymethyl-2,4-(1H ,3H)-pyrimidinedione, 2,4-dihydroxypyrimidine-5-carboxylic acid, 6-azathymine, 5-methyl-1,3,5-triazinan-2-one, N-carbamoylmaleamic acid, alloxan monohydrate and a mixture e of these compounds.

Most preferably, the compound (a1) is (are) chosen from urea, hydroxyethylurea and a mixture of these compounds.

The amount of the compound(s) (a1) in the first composition may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight. weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the compound(s) (a1) in the first composition may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of compound(s) (a1) in the first composition may be 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1 % to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The first composition may further comprise (a2) water.

The amount of (a2) water in the first composition may be 50 wt% or more, preferably 55 wt% or more, and more preferably 60 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the first composition.

The amount of (a2) the water in the first composition may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the first composition.

The amount of (a2) water in the first composition may be 50% to 80% by weight, preferably 55% to 75% by weight, and more preferably 60% to 70% by weight, based to the total weight of the first composition.

(Optional components)

The first composition may further comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, other optional components typically used in cosmetics, namely nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, tints, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, preservatives and others, in a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

The first composition may comprise the other optional component(s) above in an amount of 0.001% to 50% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Preparation)

The first composition can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients mentioned above according to one of the methods well known to those skilled in the art.

The first composition may be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid.

(Apps)

The first composition can be used to treat, for example, keratinous fibers or to condition them. The first composition may in particular be effective in improving combing and smoothness at the initial stage.

The first composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-type hair cosmetic composition.

For example, the first composition can be used in cosmetic hair care products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the first composition is in the form of a lotion.

{Second Composition}

(cationic polyamino acid)

The second composition used in the present invention comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid. Two or more cationic polyamino acids can be used in combination. Thus, a single type of cationic polyamino acid or a combination of different types of cationic polyamino acids can be used.

The (b1) cationic polyamino acid has a positive charge density. The charge density of the (b1) cationic polyamino acid may be 0.01 meq/g to 20 meq/g, preferably 0.05 to 15 meq/g, and more preferably 0.1 to 10 meq. /g.

It may be preferable that the molecular weight of the cationic polyamino acid (b1) be 1,000 or more, preferably 5,000 or more, preferably 10,000 or more, and still more preferably 20,000 or more, and/or 1,000,000 or less, preferably 500,000 or less, and even more preferably 100,000 or less.

Unless otherwise indicated in the description, the term "molecular weight" means a number average molecular weight (for non-proteins) or in daltons (for proteins).

The (b1) cationic polyamino acid has at least one positively charged moiety. It is preferred that the positively charged moiety comprise at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably at least one trialkylammonium group, and even more preferably at least one trimethylammonium group. Thus, it is preferable that the (b1) cationic polyamino acid comprises at least one quaternary ammonium group, preferably at least one trialkylammonium group, and even more preferably at least one trimethylammonium group.

The positively charged moiety may also have at least one hydroxyl group, preferably one hydroxyl group. Thus, for example, the positively charged moiety may be a hydroxypropyltrimethylammonium group.

The (b1) cationic polyamino acid can be a cationic homopolymer or copolymer, with a plurality of amino groups and carboxyl groups. The amino group can be primary, secondary and tertiary amino group. The amino group can be present in a polymer backbone or pendant group, if present, of the (b1) cationic polyamino acid. The carboxyl group can be present in a side group, if present, of (b1) cationic polyamino acids.

Examples of (b1) cationic polyamino acids include cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropylstardimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropylcocodimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl steardimonium soybean, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyltrimonium soy protein, hydrolyzed hydroxypropyl cocodimonium soy protein, and a mixture thereof.

It is preferable that the (b1) cationic polyamino acid of the second composition used in the present invention is not a synthetic cationic polymer. It is therefore preferable that the cationic polyamino acid (b1) be of natural origin.

It is preferred that the (b1) cationic polyamino acid be derived from plants, and more preferably from plant proteins. It is preferred that the (b1) cationic polyamino acid be selected from the group consisting of hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, steardimonium hydroxypropylstyrene hydrolyzed wheat protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropylstyrene hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, steardimonium hydroxypropylstyrene hydrolyzed soy protein, cocodimonium hydroxypropylstyrene hydrolyzed soy protein, and a mixture thereof.

The amount of the cationic polyamino acid(s) (b1) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3% by weight. weight or more, more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and still more preferably 0.8 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cationic polyamino acid(s) (b1) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, more preferably 10 wt% or less, and still more preferably 5 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cationic polyamino acid(s) (b1) in the second composition used in the present invention can be from 0.2% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.3% to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.8% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Hydroxyacid)

The second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b2) at least one hydroxy acid or a salt thereof. If two or more hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

The (b2) hydroxy acid can comprise at least one mono- or polycarboxylic acid comprising at least one hydroxyl functional group. The (b2) hydroxy acid can be chosen from α- and β-hydroxy acids. For example, the (b2) hydroxy acid can be an α-hydroxy acid. The α and β positions reflect the fact that at least one of the hydroxyl functions occupies an α or β position relative to at least one of the carboxyl functions of the acid, i.e. it is attached, respectively , either to the carbon bearing the hydroxyl function, or to the carbon adjacent to that bearing the carboxyl function. The acid may be present in a form chosen from free acids, their associated salts (such as salts with organic bases and alkali metals), for example, depending on the final pH given to the second composition, and optionally the corresponding lactides (i.e. the form obtained by self-esterification of the molecules).

AHA:

The second composition used in the present invention may further comprise at least one α-hydroxy acid (AHA) or a salt thereof as (b2) hydroxy acid or a salt thereof. If two or more α-hydroxy acids or salts thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "α-hydroxy acid", or "AHA", here refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

The α-hydroxy acid can be represented by the following chemical formula:

(R _a )(R _b )C(OH)COOH

Or

R _a and R _b are H, F, Cl, Br, I, an alkyl, aralkyl or aryl group, saturated or unsaturated, isomeric or not, straight or branched chain or cyclic, having 1 to 25 carbon atoms, and besides R _a and R _b can carry OH, CHO, COOH and an alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms.

The hydrogen atom attached to the carbon atom can be substituted by F, Cl, Br, I, or a lower alkyl, aralkyl, aryl or alkoxyl group having 1 to 9 carbon atoms. Alpha hydroxy acids can be present as a free acid or lactone, or as a partial salt with an organic base or an inorganic alkali. Alpha hydroxy acids can exist as stereoisomers such as the D, L, DL and meso forms.

When R _a and R _b are alkyl groups, they may be independently in any of the groups C ₁ -C ₅ , C ₆ -C ₁₀ , C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ , C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ , C ₂₁ - _C25 and _C26 - _C29 . The compounds of chemical formula above therefore include all possible combinations of Ra and Rb. The above includes a sub-genus of compounds in which R _a and R _b are independently selected from C ₁ -C ₁₂ .

Typical alkyl, aralkyl, aryl and alkoxyl groups for R _a and R _b include methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, octyl, lauryl, stearyl, benzyl, phenyl, methoxyl and ethoxyl groups.

The alpha hydroxy acids of the first group can be subdivided into

(1) alkyl alpha hydroxy acids,

(2) aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids,

(3) polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids,

(4) alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids, and

(5) various alpha hydroxy acids.

The following alpha hydroxy acids are representative of each subgroup.

(1) alkyl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (glycolic acid), 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (lactic acid), 2-methyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (methyllactic acid), 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2- hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2- hydroxyeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxyarachidonic acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (brain acid), 2-hydroxytetraeicosanoic acid (alpha hydroxynervonic acid) and 2,4-dihydroxy-3,3-dimethylbutanoic acid (pantoic acid)

(2) Aralkyl and aryl alpha hydroxy acids: 2-phenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (mandelic acid); 2,2-diphenyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (benzilic acid), 3-phenyl 2-hydroxypropanoic acid (phenyllactic acid), 2-phenyl 2-methyl 2-hydroxyethanoic acid (atrolactic acid) and 4-hydroxymandelic acid.

(3) Polyhydroxy alpha hydroxy acids: 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid (glyceric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid (isomers; erythronic acid, threonic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxypentanoic acid (isomers; ribonic acid, arabinoic acid, xylonic acid, lyxonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexanoic acid (isomers; allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannoic acid, gulonic acid, idonic acid, galactonic acid, talonic acid); 2,3,4,5,6,7-hexahydroxyheptanoic acid (isomers; glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, mannoheptonic acid, etc.)

(4) alpha hydroxy polycarboxylic acids: 2-hydroxypropane-1,3-dioic acid (tartronic acid); 2-hydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (malic acid); 2-hydroxy-2-methylbutane-1,4-dioic acid (citramalic acid); 2,3-dihydroxybutane-1,4-dioic acid (tartaric acid); 2,3,4-trihydroxypentane-1,5-dioic acid (isomers: ribaric acid, arabic acid, xylaric acid, lyxaric acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexane-1,6-dioic acid (isomers; glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, allaric acid, altraric acid, gularic acid, idaric acid, talaric acid); 2-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (citric acid); 1-hydroxy-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (isocitric acid); 1-hydroxy-1,2,4-butanetricarboxylic acid (homosocitric acid); 2-hydroxy-3-hexadecyl-1,2,3-propanetricarboxylic acid (n-hexadecyl citric acid; agaric acid).

(5) Various alpha hydroxy acids: glyceronic acid, erythruronic acid, threuronic acid; 2,3,4-trihydroxypentanuronic acids (isomers; riburonic acid, arabinuronic acid, xyluronic acid, lyxuronic acid); 2,3,4,5-tetrahydroxyhexanuronic acid (isomers; alluronic acid, altruronic acid, glucuronic acid, mannuronic acid, guluronic acid, iduronic acid, galacturonic acid, taluronic acid); 2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyheptanuronic acid (isomers; alloheptanuronic acid, altroheptanuronic acid, glucoheptanuronic acid, mannoheptanuronic acid, guloheptanuronic acid, idoheptanuronic acid, galactoheptanuronic acid, taloheptanuronic acid).

The α-hydroxy acid can be selected, for example, from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic, mucic acid and a mixture thereof.

BHA:

The second composition used in the present invention may further comprise at least one β-hydroxy acid (BHA) or a salt thereof, as (b2) hydroxy acid or a salt thereof. If two or more β-hydroxy acids or their salts are used, they may be the same or different.

The term "β-hydroxy acid", or "BHA", here refers to a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on the beta carbon atom.

As β-hydroxy acids, mention may be made, without limitation, of salicylic acid and its derivatives, in particular its alkylated derivatives of formula (I) below or a salt of such a derivative:

in which :

R1 represents a hydroxyl radical or an ester of formula:

-O-CO-R4

in which R4 is a saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 26 carbon atoms, and preferably from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, or an amine or thiol function optionally substituted by an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms , and preferably from 1 to 12 carbon atoms,

R2 and R3, independently of each other, are in position 3, 4, 5 or 6 on the benzene ring and represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or the radical:

-(O) _n -(CO) _m -R5

in which n and m, independently of each other, are each an integer equal to 0 or 1; provided that R2 and R3 are not simultaneously hydrogen atoms;

R5 represents a hydrogen atom, a saturated, linear, branched or cyclized aliphatic radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms or an unsaturated radical containing 3 to 18 carbon atoms bearing one to nine conjugated or unconjugated double bonds , the radicals possibly being substituted by at least one substituent chosen from halogen atoms (fluorine, chlorine, bromine or iodine), trifluoromethyl radicals, hydroxyl in the free form or esterified with an acid containing from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, or carboxyl in the free form or esterified with a lower alcohol containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

The salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is preferably such that R1 represents a hydroxyl radical, R2 represents a hydrogen atom, R3 is in position 5 of the benzene ring and represents a -CO-R5 radical in which R5 represents a saturated aliphatic radical containing from 3 to 15 carbon atoms.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the salicylic acid derivative of formula (I) is chosen from 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-decanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n- dodecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-octylsalicylic acid, 5-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 4-n-heptyloxysalicylic acid, 5-tert-octylsalicylic acid, 3-tert-butyl-5-methylsalicylic acid, acid 3-tert-butyl-6-methylsalicylic acid, 3,5-diisopropylsalicylic acid, 5-butoxysalicylic acid, 5-octyloxysalicylic acid, 5-propanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-hexadecanoylsalicylic acid, 5-n-oleoylsalicylic acid, 5-benzoylsalicylic acid , their monovalent and divalent salts, and mixtures thereof. It is more particularly 5-n-octanoylsalicylic acid (INCI: Capryloyl Salicylic Acid).

Favorite Hydroxyacid:

It is preferable that the (b2) hydroxy acid has two or more carboxylic groups, and more preferably two or three carboxylic groups.

It is also preferable that the (b2) hydroxy acid has one or more hydroxyl groups, and more preferably one or two hydroxyl groups.

It is preferable that the (b2) hydroxy acid is chosen from an α-hydroxy acid.

Preferably, the (b2) hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid, gluconic acid and a mixture of these acids.

It is even more preferred that the (b2) hydroxy acid is selected from the group consisting of citric acid, tartaric acid and a mixture thereof.

The hydroxy acid(s) (b2) or their salt(s) may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount of 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight. weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The hydroxy acid(s) (b2) or their salt(s) may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount of 20% by weight or less, preferably 15% by weight or less, and more preferably 10% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The hydroxy acid(s) (b2) or their salt(s) may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 % to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b3) water.

The amount of (b3) water may be 50 wt% or more, preferably 55 wt% or more, and more preferably 60 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the second composition .

The amount of (b3) water may be 80% by weight or less, preferably 75% by weight or less, and more preferably 70% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the second composition .

The amount of (b3) water may be 50 to 80% by weight, preferably 55 to 75% by weight, and more preferably 60 to 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the second composition .

(pH)

The second composition used in the present invention can have a pH lower than 7, preferably lower than 6, and more preferably lower than 5. The pH of the second composition used in the present invention can be adjusted to be, for example , from 3 to less than 7, preferably from 3 to less than 6, and more preferably from 3 to less than 5, such as 4±0.5. The pH of the second composition used in the present invention can be determined by measuring the pH of the aqueous phase of the composition.

In other words, it is preferable that the second composition used in the present invention be acidic.

The pH of the second composition used in the present invention can be controlled by adding at least one pH adjuster to the composition.

The pH adjuster can be chosen from organic or inorganic bases and organic or inorganic acids, as well as their salts.

Among the organic bases, mention may be made of primary, secondary and tertiary (poly)amines, such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine and 1,3-propanediamine. Examples of inorganic base include ammonia, ammonium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate.

Examples of the organic acid include a carboxylic acid, such as citric acid and lactic acid. Examples of inorganic acid include hydrochloric acid, nitric acid, orthophosphoric acid and sulfonic acid. Examples of salt include sodium phosphate and trisodium phosphate.

The pH adjuster(s) may be present in the second composition used in the present invention in an amount sufficient to adjust the pH of the composition to the desired value, for example, from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

(Cationic Surfactant)

The second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b4) at least one cationic surfactant. If two or more cationic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

The (b4) cationic surfactant used in the present invention is different from (b1) cationic polyamino acid.

The cationic surfactant can be chosen from the group consisting of salts of optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, quaternary ammonium salts and mixtures thereof.

Examples of quaternary ammonium salts that may be mentioned include, but are not limited to, the following

those of general formula (B3) below:

(B3)

in which

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , and R ₄ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear and branched aliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and optionally comprising heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals can be chosen, for example, from alkyl, alkoxy, C ₂ -C ₆ polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate, and hydroxyalkyl; and aromatic radicals such as aryl and alkylaryl; and X ^- is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl sulphates, and alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulphonates;

the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for example those of formula (B4) below:

(B4)

in which :

R ₅ is chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow or coconut;

R ₆ is chosen from hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals, and alkenyl and alkyl radicals containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₇ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals;

R ₈ is chosen from hydrogen and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radicals; And

X ^- is chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl sulphonates and alkylaryl sulphonates. In the same embodiment, R ₅ and R ₆ are, for example, a mixture of radicals chosen from alkenyl and alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, such as fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R ₇ is methyl, and R ₈ is hydrogen. Among these products, mention may be made, inter alia, of Quaternium-27 (CTFA 1997) and Quaternium-83 (CTFA 1997), which are sold under the names “Rewoquat®” W75, W90, W75PG and W75HPG by the company Witco ;

The di- or tri-quaternary ammonium salts of formula (B5):

(B5)

in which :

R ₉ is chosen from aliphatic radicals comprising from 16 to 30 carbon atoms;

R ₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a -(CH ₂ ) ₃ (R _16a )(R _17a )(R _18a )N ⁺ X ^- group _;

R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ , R ₁₄ , R _16a , R _17a , and R _18a , which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and alkyl radicals comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; And

X ^- is selected from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, ethyl sulfates and methyl sulfates.

Examples of diquaternary ammonium salts include FINQUAT CT-P from FINETEX (Quaternium-89) or FINQUAT CT (Quaternium-75);

And

quaternary ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function, such as those of formula (B6) below:

(B6)

in which :

R ₂₂ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radicals and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl and dihydroxyalkyl radicals _;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

radicals R ₂₇ based on C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, and hydrogen,

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

radicals R ₂₉ based on C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, and hydrogen,

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ , and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from radicals based on linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbons;

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 2 to 6;

r1 and t1, which may be identical or different, are each equal to 0 or 1, and r2+r1=2r and t1+2t=2t;

y is chosen from the integers ranging from 1 to 10;

x and z, which may be identical or different, are chosen from integers ranging from 0 to 10;

X ⁻ is chosen from simple and complex, organic and inorganic anions; provided that the sum x+y+z varies from 1 to 15, that when x is equal to 0, R ₂₃ denotes R ₂₇ , and that when z is equal to 0, R ₂₅ denotes R ₂₉ . R ₂₂ can be chosen from linear and branched alkyl radicals. In one variant, R ₂₂ is chosen from linear alkyl radicals. In another variant, R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl and dihydroxypropyl radicals, for example methyl and ethyl radicals. In a variant, the sum x+y+z is between 1 and 10. When R ₂₃ is a radical based on hydrocarbon R ₂₇ , it can be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and contain 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R ₂₅ is a hydrocarbon-based radical R ₂₉ , it may comprise, for example, from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. By way of non-limiting example, in the same representation, R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon-based radicals, saturated or unsaturated, for example from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ alkyl and alkenyl radicals, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. In another variant, x and z, which may be the same or different, are 0 or 1. In one variant, y is equal to 1. In another variant, r, s and t, which may be the same or different, are equal to 2 or 3, for example 2. The anion X ^- can be chosen from, for example, halides, such as chloride, bromide and iodide, and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl sulphates, such than methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate and lactate, and any other anion compatible with ammonium, including an ester function, are of other non-limiting examples of anions which can be used according to the present invention. In one embodiment, the anion X ⁻ is chosen from chloride and methyl sulphate.

In another embodiment, ammonium salts of formula (B6) can be used, wherein

R ₂₂ is chosen from methyl and ethyl radicals,

x and y are equal to 1;

z is equal to 0 or 1;

r, s and t are equal to 2;

R ₂₃ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

methyl, ethyl, and C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon-based radicals, and hydrogen;

R ₂₅ is chosen from:

the stem below:

,

and hydrogen;

R ₂₄ , R ₂₆ , and R ₂₈ , which may be identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon-based radicals, linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated, for example from alkyl and alkenyl radicals C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ , linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated.

In one case, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Non-limiting examples of compounds of formula (B6) which may be mentioned include salts, for example of chloride and methyl sulphate, diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, triacyloxyethyl- methylammonium, monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-dimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. In a same embodiment, the acyl radicals can comprise from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and can be derived, for example, from a vegetable oil, for example palm oil and sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl radicals, these radicals may be identical or different.

These products can be obtained, for example, by direct esterification of optionally oxyalkylated triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of vegetable or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification can be followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent chosen from alkyl halides, for example methyl and ethyl halides; dialkyl sulphates, for example dimethyl and diethyl sulphates; methyl methanesulfonate; methyl para-toluenesulfonate; glycol chlorohydrin; and glycerol chlorohydrin.

These compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Cognis, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca and “Rewoquat® WE 18” by the company Rewo-Goldschmidt.

Other non-limiting examples of ammonium salts that can be used in the second composition include ammonium salts comprising at least one ester function described in US Patent Nos. 4,874,554 and 4,137,180.

The quaternary ammonium salts mentioned above which can be used in the second composition include, but are not limited to, those having formula (I), for example tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl radical comprises approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, such as behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride; palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride; and stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name “Ceraphyl® 70” by the company Van Dyk.

According to one embodiment, the cationic surfactant which can be used in the second composition is chosen from behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Quaternium-80, Quaternium-83, Quaternium-87, Quaternium-22, behenylamidopropyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyldimethylammonium chloride, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride and stearamidopropyldimethylamine.

The amount of the cationic surfactant(s) (b4) may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight. weight or more, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

The amount of the cationic surfactant(s) (b4) may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the second composition.

The amount of (b4) cationic surfactant(s) may be between 0.1% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the second composition.

(Nonionic surfactant)

The second composition used in the present invention may further comprise (b5) at least one nonionic surfactant. If two or more nonionic surfactants are used, they may be the same or different.

Nonionic surfactants are compounds that are well known per se (see, for example, in this regard, the “Handbook of Surfactants” by MR Porter, Blackie & Son publishers (Glasgow and London), 1991, p. 116-178). Thus, they can, for example, be chosen from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols and fatty acid esters, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated and comprising at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 30 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 2 to 50, and the number of glycerol groups from 1 to 30. Maltose derivatives can also be mentioned. Mention may also be made, without limitation, of copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, for example, from 1.5 to 5 glycerol groups, such as for example from 1.5 to 4; sorbitan ethoxylated fatty acid esters comprising from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide; ethoxylated oils of vegetable origin; sucrose fatty acid esters; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; mono- or diesters of polyethoxylated fatty acids of glycerol (C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylpolyglycosides; N-(C ₆ -C ₂₄ )alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides such as C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ alkylamine oxides or N-(C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ )acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides; silicone surfactants; and their mixtures.

The nonionic surfactants can preferably be chosen from monooxyalkylenated, polyoxyalkylenated, monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, and are preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants which may be mentioned include

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) alkylphenols,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ alcohols,

saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated C ₈ -C ₃₀ amides,

esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₈ -C ₃₀ acids and of monoalkylene glycols or of polyalkylene glycols,

monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acids and of sorbitol,

saturated or unsaturated, monooxyalkylated or polyoxyalkylated vegetable oils, and

ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide condensates, among others, alone or in the form of mixtures.

The surfactants preferably contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide comprised between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50, and more preferably between 1 and 20.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the monooxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants can be chosen from monooxyethylenated fatty alcohols (ether of ethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), monooxyethylenated fatty esters (ester of ethylene glycol and fatty acid) and mixtures thereof.

Examples of monooxyalkylated fatty esters that may be mentioned include glycol distearate.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the polyoxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants can be chosen from a polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohol (ether of polyethylene glycol and fatty alcohol), polyoxyethylene fatty ester (ester of polyethylene glycol and fatty), and mixtures thereof.

The examples of polyoxyethylenated saturated fatty alcohol (or C8-C30 alcohols) which may be mentioned include the adducts of ethylene oxide with lauryl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Laureth-2 to Laureth-20, as CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with behenyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Beheneth-2 to Beheneth-20, as CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol), especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Ceteareth-2 to Ceteareth-20, as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with cetyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Ceteth-2 to Ceteth-20, as CTFA names); ethylene oxide adducts with stearyl alcohol, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Steareth-2 to Steareth-20, as CTFA names); adducts of ethylene oxide with isostearyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units (Isosteareth-2 to Isosteareth-20, as CTFA names); and their mixtures.

Examples of polyoxyethylenated unsaturated fatty alcohols (or C8-C30 alcohols) which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with oleyl alcohol, in particular those containing from 2 to 20 oxyethylene units and more particularly those containing from 2 to 10 oxyethylene units (Oleth-2 to Oleth-20, as CTFA names); and their mixtures.

As examples of nonionic monoglycerol or polyglycerol surfactants, monoglycerol or polyglycerol C ₈ -C ₄₀ alcohols are preferably used.

In particular, the C ₈ -C ₄₀ monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols correspond to the following formula:

RO-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OH)-O] _m -H or RO-[CH(CH ₂ OH)-CH ₂ O] _m -H

in which R represents a linear or branched C ₈ -C ₄₀ and preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1.5 to 10.

As examples of compounds which are suitable in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1.5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

Alcohol can represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohol can coexist as a mixture .

Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is preferable to use a C ₈ /C ₁₀ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, a C ₁₀ /C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1 mole of glycerol and a C ₁₂ alcohol containing 1.5 mole of glycerol.

Monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C ₈ -C ₄₀ fatty esters may correspond to the following formula:

R'O-[CH ₂ -CH(CH ₂ OR''')-O] _m -R'' or R'O-[CH(CH ₂ OR''')-CH ₂ O] _m -R''

in which each of the radicals R', R'' and R''' independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C 8 -C ₄₀ and preferably C ₈ -C 40 alkyl-CO- or alkenyl-CO- radical ₈ -C ₃₀ , provided that at least one of the radicals R', R'' and R''' is not a hydrogen atom, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably 1, 5 to 10.

Examples of polyoxyethylene fatty esters which may be mentioned include adducts of ethylene oxide with esters of lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or behenic acid, and their mixtures, especially those containing 2 to 20 oxyethylene units, such as PEG-2 to PEG-20 laurate (CTFA names: PEG-2 laurate to PEG-20 laurate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitate (CTFA names: PEG-2 palmitate to PEG-20 palmitate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 stearate (CTFA names: PEG-2 stearate to PEG-20 stearate); PEG-2 to PEG-20 palmitostearate; PEG-2 to PEG-20 behenate (CTFA names: PEG-2 behenate to PEG-20 behenate); and their mixtures.

The polyoxyethylenated fatty esters can also be chosen from diesters of polyethylene glycol and of fatty acids, such as saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, C8-C30 acids, which can comprise one or more substituents such as a hydroxyl group and hydroxyl groups. Fatty acids can be in the form of a polymer of fatty acids each of which has one or more hydroxyl groups. Such a polymer can be formed by the esterification of the carboxyl group of a fatty acid having one or more hydroxyl groups and the hydroxyl group of another fatty acid having one or more hydroxyl groups. Polyhydroxystearate is an example of such a polymer. Thus, as the polyoxyethylene fatty ester, mention may be made of PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from polyol esters with saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acids containing, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon, and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units, such as glyceryl esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ fatty acids, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sorbitol esters of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , fatty acids and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing from 10 to 200, and more preferably from 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; sugar esters (sucrose, maltose, glucose, fructose and/or alkylglycose) of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , fatty acids, and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives, preferably containing 10 200, and more preferably 10 to 100 oxyalkylene units; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of one or more C ₈ -C ₂₄ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols; and their mixtures.

As glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate), glyceryl laurate or glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof may be mentioned, and as polyoxyalkylenated derivatives thereof, the mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a polyoxyalkylenated glycerol (mono-, di-, or triester of fatty acids with a glycerol polyalkylene glycol ether), Mention may preferably be made of polyoxyethylenated glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) such as PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) and polyoxyethylenated glyceryl cocoate ( mono-, di-, and/or tristearate) such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate.

Mixtures of these surfactants, such as for example the product containing glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name ARLACEL 165 by Uniqema, and the product containing glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono- and distearate) and Potassium stearate marketed under the name TEGIN by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE), can also be used.

Sorbitol esters of C-fatty acids₈-VS₂₄ and their polyoxyalkylenated derivatives can be chosen from sorbitol palmitate, sorbitol isostearate, sorbitol trioleate, sorbitol sesquioleate and esters of fatty acids and alkoxylated sorbitol containing for example from 20 to 100 EO, such as for example sorbitol monostearate (CTFA name: sorbitan stearate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 60, sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: sorbitan palmitate), sold by the company ICI under the name Span 40, and sorbitan tristearate 20 EO (CTFA name: polysorbate 65), sold by the company ICI under the name Tween 65, polyethylene sorbitan trioleate (polysorbate 85), or the compounds marketed under the names Tween 20 (polysorbate 20) or Tween 80 (Polysorbate 80).

As fatty acid and glucose or alkylglucose esters, glucose palmitate, alkylglucose sesquistearates such as methylglucose sesquistearate, alkylglucose palmitates such as methylglucose or ethylglucose palmitate, fatty esters of methylglucoside, the diester of methylglucoside and oleic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate), the mixed ester of methylglucoside and the mixture of oleic acid/hydroxystearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose dioleate/hydroxystearate), the ester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose isostearate), the ester of methylglucoside and lauric acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose laurate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and isostearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesqui-isostearate), the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucoside and stearic acid (CTFA name: Methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucate SS by AMERCHOL, and mixtures thereof may be cited.

As ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and glucose or alkylglucose, the ethoxylated ethers of fatty acids and methylglucose, and in particular the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of methylglucose and stearic acid with approximately 20 mol of ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose distearate) such as the product marketed as Glucam E-20 distearate by AMERCHOL, the polyethylene glycol ether of the mixture of monoester and diester of methyl glucose and stearic acid with about 20 mol ethylene oxide (CTFA name: PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate) and in particular the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by AMERCHOL and that marketed under the name Grillocose PSE-20 by GOLDSCHMIDT, and their mixtures, can by example be cited.

As sucrose esters, mention may be made, for example, of sucrose palmitostearate, sucrose stearate and sucrose monolaurate.

As sugar ethers, alkylpolyglucosides can be used, and for example decylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name MYDOL 10 by Kao Chemicals, the product marketed under the name PLANTAREN 2000 by Henkel, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 by Seppic, caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110 by Seppic or under the name LUTENSOL GD 70 by BASF, laurylglucoside such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N and PLANTACARE 1200 by Henkel, coco- glucoside such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818/UP by Henkel, cetostearyl glucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by Seppic, under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel, arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenyl alcohols and arachidic glucoside com marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by Seppic, cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of a mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name MONTANOV 82 by Seppic, and mixtures thereof may in particular be cited.

Mention may also be made of mixtures of glycerides of alkoxylated vegetable oils, such as mixtures of ethoxylated glycerides (200 HE) of palm and copra (7 HE).

The nonionic surfactant may preferably contain a C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ branched alkenyl or acyl chain such as an oleyl or isostearyl group. Preferably, the nonionic surfactant can be PEG-20 glyceryl triisostearate.

According to one embodiment of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, in particular the copolymers of the following formula:

HO(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b (C ₂ H ₄ O) _c H

in which a, b and c are integers such that a+c ranges from 2 to 100 and b ranges from 14 to 60, and mixtures thereof.

According to one of the embodiments of the present invention, the nonionic surfactant can be chosen from silicone surfactants. Non-limiting mention may be made of those disclosed in US-A-5364633 and US-A-5411744.

The silicone surfactant can preferably be a compound of formula (I):

in which :

R ₁ , R ₂ , and R ₃ , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl radical or a radical -(CH ₂ ) _x -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _z -OR ₄ , at least one R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ radical not being an alkyl radical; R ₄ being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical;

A is an integer ranging from 0 to 200;

B is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; provided that A and B are not simultaneously equal to zero;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 6;

y is an integer between 1 and 30;

z is an integer between 0 and 5.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6, and y is an integer ranging from 4 to 30 .

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may be made of the compounds of formula (II):

where A is an integer ranging from 20 to 105, B is an integer ranging from 2 to 10, and y is an integer ranging from 10 to 20.

As examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I), mention may also be made of the compounds of formula (III):

H-(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -[(CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO] _{A '} -(CH ₂ ) ₃ -(OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _y -OH (III)

where A' and y are integers ranging from 10 to 20.

The compounds which can be used are those sold by the Dow Corning company under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695, and Q4-3667. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, and DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) wherein, respectively, A is 22, B is 2, and y is 12; A is 103, B is 10, and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3, and y is 12.

Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) in which A is 15 and y is 13.

The amount of (b5) nonionic surfactant(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably of 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (b5) nonionic surfactant(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight. weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (b5) nonionic surfactant(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and so more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Amino acid, its derivatives and its salts)

The second composition used in the present invention may also comprise (b6) at least one compound chosen from amino acids, their derivatives and their salts (hereinafter, this compound may be designated (b6) compound). If two or more (b6) compounds are used, they may be the same or different.

In one embodiment, the (b6) compound is chosen from amino acids.

The amino acid has at least one amino group and at least one carboxyl group.

The amino group may be a primary amino group, a secondary amino group or a tertiary amino group, preferably a primary amino group or a secondary amino group, and more preferably a secondary amino group.

It is preferred that the molecular weight of the amino acid be less than 1000, preferably less than 500, and even more preferably less than 200. It is therefore preferable that the amino acid not be a polymer. In other words, it is preferable that the amino acid be a non-polymeric amino acid.

The amino acid can be chosen from acidic amino acids, basic amino acids and neutral amino acids. Acidic amino acids typically have one amino group and two carboxyl groups. Basic amino acids typically have two amino groups and one carboxyl group. The number of amino groups and the number of carboxyl groups in the neutral amino groups are identical.

The amino acid can be in the D or L form.

The amino acid can be hydrophilic or hydrophobic. A hydrophilic amino acid is preferable.

The amino acid can be chosen from α-amino acids, β-amino acids, γ-amino acids and δ-amino acids.

Preferably, the amino acid is selected from an α-amino acid in which an amino group is attached to the carbon atom to which a carboxyl group is attached.

The α-amino acid can be chosen from non-cyclic α-amino acids and cyclic α-amino acids.

The non-cyclic α-amino acid can be selected from the group consisting of alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, proline, serine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

The cyclic α-amino acid can be chosen from non-aromatic cyclic α-amino acids such as pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (pyroglutamic acid or pidolic acid). Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid can be formed by intramolecular condensation with the amino group and the carboxyl group of glutamic acid.

In one embodiment, the (b6) compound is chosen from amino acid derivatives.

The amino acid derivatives can be selected from amino acids in which the hydrogen atom on the nitrogen atom of the amino group in the amino acids is substituted by at least one substituent.

As the substituent, there can be mentioned, for example, an alkyl group, an acyl group, an alkenyl group, an alkoxyl group and an alkoxycarbonyl group.

The alkyl group can be a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl group. The alkyl group can be a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₆ , preferably C ₁ -C ₄ , alkyl group, such as a methyl group, an ethyl group, a propyl group, an i-propyl group and a group butyl. On the other hand, the alkyl group may be a C ₃ -C ₆ cyclic alkyl group, such as a cyclopentyl group and a cyclohexyl group.

The acyl group can be a C ₁ -C ₆ acyl group, such as a formyl group and an acetyl group.

The alkenyl group can be a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group such as vinyl group, allyl group, butylene group, pentenyl group and hexenyl group.

The alkoxy group can be a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy group such as methoxy group, ethoxy group and propoxy group.

The alkoxycarbonyl group may be a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxycarbonyl group such as methoxycarbonyl group, ethoxycarbonyl group and propoxycarbonyl group.

The above substituent may be further substituted with at least one group such as halogen atom, amino group, nitro group, cyano group, hydroxyl group and aromatic group such as phenyl group.

In one embodiment, the (b6) compound is chosen from salts of amino acids or salts of derivatives of amino acids.

The kind of amino acid salts or amino acid derivative salts is not limited. The salts can be acid salts or basic salts. Among the acid salts, mention may be made, for example, of the salts of inorganic acids such as the hydrochloride, the sulphates, the nitrates and the phosphates, and the salts of organic acids such as the citrates, the oxalates, the acetates, formats, maleates and tartrates. Among the basic salts, mention may be made, for example, of the salts of inorganic bases such as the sodium salt, the potassium salt, the calcium salt, the magnesium salt, the copper salt, the zinc salt, the aluminum salt and ammonium salts, and salts of organic bases such as triethylammonium salts, triethanolammonium salts, pyridinium salts and diisopropyl ammonium salts. Sodium salt is preferable.

The amount of (b6) compound(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 1 wt% or more, preferably 5 wt% or more, and more preferably 10 wt%. by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the compound(s) (b6) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 30 wt% or less, preferably 25 wt% or less, and more preferably 20 wt%. by weight or less, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (b6) compound(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Optional components)

The second composition used in the present invention may comprise, in addition to the aforementioned components, optional components typically used in cosmetics, namely anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, dyes, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, preservatives, and the like, within a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

The second composition used in the present invention may comprise the above optional component(s) in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

It is preferable that the second composition used in the present invention includes only a limited amount of silicone(s). For example, the amount of silicone(s) in the second composition used in the present invention may be 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, and more preferably 1% by weight or less. less, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is particularly preferable that the second composition used in the present invention does not include silicone.

(Preparation)

The second composition used in the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients mentioned above in accordance with one of the methods well known to those skilled in the art.

The second composition used in the present invention may be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid.

(Apps)

The second composition can be used to treat, for example, keratinous fibers. The second composition can also be effective in improving combing and smoothing, even if the keratinous fibers are wet.

The second composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-type hair cosmetic composition.

For example, the second composition can be used in cosmetic hair care products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the second composition is in the form of a lotion.

{Third Composition}

The third composition used in the present invention comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. If two or more fatty diacid polyol(s) dimer esters or ester(s) thereof are used, they may be the same or different.

In the expression "ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof", the expression "or an ester thereof" designates one of the derivatives of these esters and of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer obtained either by reaction of the alcohol function(s) of the polyol, not engaged in ester type bonds with the acid functions of the diacid dimer, with one or more carboxylic functions of molecules of acid other than the diacid dimer, or as a variant by reaction of acid function(s) of the diacid dimer, not engaged in ester type bonds with alcohol functions of the polyol, with alcohol functions of other alcohol molecules than polyol.

Advantageously, the esters of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which are suitable for use in the present invention may have a viscosity, measured at approximately 25° C., greater than or equal to about 1500 mPa.s.

The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or of an ester thereof, according to the present invention, can be measured according to any method known to those skilled in the art, and for example according to the conventional method described below.

Viscosity can be measured using an Ares type cone/plate or parallel plate viscometer (TA-Instrument) operating in kinetic scan mode over a shear range of approximately 1 to 1000 s ^-1 to induce a flow voltage of about 1000 Pa.

The cone/plate or parallel plates may be made of a material selected from the group consisting of stainless steel, acrylic resin or polyphenylene sulfide (PPS resin).

The cone/plate diameter can be 25 mm (0.10 radian cone angle).

The measurement is carried out at approximately 25°C.

Before any measurement, the stability of the sample is checked by means of the dynamic sweep period test, which makes it possible to determine whether the sample is stable in itself.

The shear viscosity is determined using the ETA value in the plateau region depending on the flow.

The dynamic sweep period is determined at a frequency of 1.0 Hz over a period of 600 seconds.

The measurements at constant scanning speed are carried out with a rate ranging from 1.0 to 1000 s ^-1 and for example from 1.0 to 100 s ^-1 .

The viscosity of an ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or of an ester thereof, suitable for the present invention, can range from about 1,500 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa. s, or for example from about 2,000 mPa.s to about 150,000 mPa.s, or for example from about 15,000 mPa.s to about 100,000 mPa.s or for example from about 30,000 mPa.s at about 80,000 mPa.s.

According to one embodiment, a polyol suitable for the present invention can be a diol dimer.

The diol dimer and fatty diacid dimer esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared in conventional manner. They can be of vegetable origin and can be obtained by esterification of diacid dimers with diol dimers.

In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, a polyol dicarboxylate is obtained, which can have a weight average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC for gel permeation chromatography), ranging from 2000 to 25 000 g/mol or for example between 2000 and 4000 g/mol.

Diacid dimer:

The fatty diacid dimers, or diacid dimers, can be obtained conventionally by polymerization reaction, for example by intermolecular dimerization, of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

They can contain two or more carboxylic acid groups.

As indicated above, the carboxylic functions of the fatty diacid dimer not engaged in the ester bond with the polyol residue(s) can be engaged in other ester bonds with other alcohol functions of alcohol molecules other than the polyol(s).

These alcohol molecules or residues can be monoalcohols or polyols.

As examples of alcohol residues suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of hydrocarbon-based compounds comprising a hydroxyl function and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or by for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms, or for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

Examples of suitable monoalcohols for the present invention include, without limitation, butanol, pentanol, propanol, hexanol, heptanol, octanol, decanol, dodecanol, hexadecanol, octadecanol, eicosadecanol, phytosterol, isosterol, stearol, ketol, beheniol, etc.

The fatty diacid dimers can be derived for example from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, for example from C ₈ to C ₃₄ , or for example from C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , in particular from C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ and for example of _C18 .

Examples of such unsaturated fatty acids include, for example, undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid and arachidonic acid, and mixtures thereof.

According to a variant embodiment, it may be the diacid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified can also be derived. It may be its hydrogenated form.

The hydrogenated form of the diacid dimer can be partial or total, and can correspond, for example, to the saturated form, which is more stable with respect to oxidation.

According to another embodiment variant, it may be the diacid dimer derived from the dimerization of linoleic acid.

According to one embodiment, the diacid dimer can be a commercial product consisting of a dicarboxylic acid containing approximately 36 carbon atoms. This product may also contain a trimeric acid and a monomeric acid, in proportions which depend on the degree of purity of the product.

Products whose diacid dimer content may be greater than 70% and the others whose diacid dimer content has been adjusted to 90% or more are traditionally commercially available.

Diacid dimers, and for example dilinoleic diacids whose stability towards oxidation has been improved by hydrogenation of the double bonds remaining after the dimerization reaction, can also be found commercially.

In the present invention, any currently commercially available diacid dimer can be used.

In an esterification reaction with a diacid dimer, the average degree of esterification and the average molecular weight of the resulting ester can be adjusted by varying the ratio of diol dimer to diacid dimer.

Polyols:

The term "polyol" is intended to designate any hydrocarbon-based compound comprising at least two hydroxyl functions and containing from 4 to 40 carbon atoms, or for example from 6 to 36 carbon atoms, or for example from 8 to 32 carbon atoms. of carbon, or for example from 16 to 28 carbon atoms and for example from 18 to 24 carbon atoms.

The hydrocarbon-based chains can be interrupted, if necessary, by the presence of at least one heteroatom, and for example an oxygen atom.

A polyol or a polyol ester suitable for the present invention may comprise, for example, from 2 to 12 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 2 to 8 hydroxyl functions, or for example from 4 to 6 hydroxyl functions.

If necessary, the hydroxyl functions, other than those already employed in an ester bond with the diacid dimer, can also be employed, in whole or in part, in other ester bonds by reaction with acid molecules other than the diacid dimer.

The polyol or ester thereof suitable for use in the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of linear, branched, cyclic or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated alcohols.

Thus, the polyol can be selected, for example, from the group consisting of a diol, a triol, a tetraol or a pentaol, or an ester thereof.

The polyol can be a diol, or an ester thereof, chosen for example from the group consisting of a fatty alcohol dimer, a monoglycerol or a polyglycerol, a C ₂ -C ₄ monoalkylene or polyalkylene glycol, the 1, 4-butanediol and pentaerythritol.

Examples of diols which are also suitable for use in the present invention include, but are not limited to, butanediol, pentanediol, propanediol, hexanediol, hexylene glycol, heptanediol, octanediol , nonanediol, decanediol, 1-decanediol, dodecanediol, tridecanediol, tetradecanediol, pentadecanediol, hexadecanediol, nonadecanediol, octadecanediol, cyclohexanediol, diglycerol, erythritol, pentaerythritol, xylitol , sorbitol, ethylene glycol and xylene glycol, and their isomers.

According to a variant, by way of example of diols suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of diol dimers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "diol dimer" is intended to denote saturated diols derived from the hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers, a diacid dimer being as defined above, and for example a diacid dimer of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

As for the industrially produced diol dimer, it also usually contains other components, for example, triol, monoalcohol and ether-like compounds, depending on the degree of purification of the acid dimer and/or its ester of lower alcohol, used as starting material.

As a general rule, products whose diol dimer content is greater than 70% can be used in the present invention. However, a high purity diol dimer can be used, such as a compound with a diol dimer content greater than 90%.

Thus, a diol dimer can be produced by hydrogenation, for example catalytic hydrogenation, of a diacid dimer, which is itself obtained by dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid.

A suitable fatty acid can be such as those mentioned previously, and for example C ₈ to C ₃₄ , or for example C ₁₂ to C ₂₂ , or for example C ₁₆ to C ₂₀ and more particularly C ₁₈ .

According to one embodiment, the diol dimer can be obtained from the hydrogenation of dilinoleic diacid.

A diol dimer can be, for example, dilinoleol.

The diol dimer can generally be in a saturated form.

As another example of a diol dimer suitable for the present invention, mention may be made, for example, of diglycerol.

This compound is a dimer of glycerol resulting from the condensation of two molecules of glycerol, with the loss of a molecule of water.

The term "diglycerol" denotes any combination of isomers which may result from such a condensation, for example linear isomers, branched isomers and, where appropriate, cyclic isomers resulting from intramolecular dehydration of a molecule of diglycerol .

Diglycerol can be obtained via any process known to those skilled in the art and in particular those described in patent EP 0 750 848.

As examples of acid molecules which can interact with one or more hydroxyl functions of the polyol, not involved in the ester bond with the diacid dimer, mention may be made, in a non-limiting manner, of the molecules derived from isostearic acid, behenic acid, phytostearic acid, stearic acid or cetyl acid.

An ester suitable for the present invention can be obtained by reacting a polyol or one of its esters with a diacid dimer, and for example a dimer dilinoleic acid, in a molar ratio of about 1.0:0.2-1 .

An ester which may be suitable for use in the present invention may be obtained by reacting a dimer dilinoleic acid with a dilinoleol and, optionally, at least one additional monoalcohol selected for example from the group consisting of behenol, isostearol, phytosterol, stearol and ketol, and mixtures thereof.

Thus, an ester used in the context of the present invention can be used in the form of a mixture of different esters, for example.

A suitable ester for use in the present invention can be obtained, for example, by reacting a glycerol, an isostearic acid and a dimer dilinoleic acid, for example in a molar ratio of 1.0:0.2-1.0 :0.5-0.9.

As examples of dimer dilinoleic acid esters and polyol(s), or an ester thereof, suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of the esters described in patent applications JP-A-2003- 226609, JP-A-2004-256515 and JP-A-2005-179377.

A fatty diacid dimer polyol(s) ester, or ester thereof, suitable for the present invention may have a molecular weight range of from about 2,000 to about 25,000 g/mol, for example from about 4,000 to about 20,000 g/mol, for example from about 5,000 to about 20,000 g/mol, for example from about 7,000 to about 15,000 g/mol and for example from about 8,000 at about 10,000 g/mol.

According to one embodiment, an ester in accordance with the present invention may comprise an alternating sequence of diacid dimer residue(s) and residue(s) linked to said polyol(s), and for example said diol(s), said polyols or diols being, for example, as defined above.

Thus, in such a configuration, each of the two ends of said sequence can bear, respectively, an OR' and OR'' unit with R' and R'' representing, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or OR' and OR'' representing, independently of one another, a C ₂ to C ₃₆ hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, for example C ₈ to C ₂₄ , for example C ₁₂ to C ₂₀ and for example C ₁₆ to C ₁₈ .

According to one embodiment, R' and R'' can both represent a hydrogen atom.

According to one embodiment, OR' and OR'' can both represent the same or different hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue.

As examples of OR' and OR'' hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residues which may be suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of fatty alcohol residues.

A suitable ester for the present invention may be selected from the group consisting of esters of general formula (I), (II) or (IV) described below, or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, an ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be suitable for use in the present invention may correspond to the general formula (I) below. below:

R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ ) _n -COO-R ₃ (I)

in which :

COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,

OR ₃ represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 or for example from 5 to 7.

According to a variant embodiment, COR ₁ CO can represent a dimer dilinoleate residue.

According to one embodiment variant, OR ₂ O can represent a dimer dilinoleyl residue.

Further, OR ₃ may represent a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue selected, for example, from the group consisting of behenyl, isostearyl and phytosteryl residues, and mixtures thereof.

According to another embodiment, the ester of dilinoleic acid dimer and polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be dimer suitable for use in the present invention may by example answer the general formula (II) below:

(II)

in which :

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15, for example from 2 to 10 and in particular from 5 to 7,

COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,

OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below:

(III)

in which :

R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue.

According to a variant embodiment, COR′ ₁ CO can represent a dimer dilinoleate residue.

According to a variant embodiment, the fatty acid residue represented by OR′ ₃ can be an isostearyl residue.

According to one embodiment, an ester of dilinoleic acid dimer and polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, which may be suitable for use in the present invention, may be of the formula (IV) below:

HO-R _{1 '} -(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-) _h -OH(IV)

in which :

a) OR ₁ ''O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimer dilinoleic acid,

b) COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and

c) h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9, for example from 2 to 8 and for example from 4 to 6.

According to one embodiment, COR ₂ ''CO can represent a dimer dilinoleate residue.

An ester suitable for the present invention may be chosen, for example, from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate and mixtures thereof.

These compounds can be obtained, for example, under the reference Hailuscent ISDA (Kokyu Alcohol) and Plandool-G, Plandool-G7, Lusplan DD-DA5, Lusplan DD-DA7, PHY/IS-DA and Lusplan DD-DAS (Nippon Fine Chemical Company Ltd).

For example, Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7 are described in patent application FR 03/02809.

The amount of polyol ester(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the third composition used in the present invention is 0. 5% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of polyol ester(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the third composition used in the present invention may be 20 wt% or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, more preferably 10 wt% or less, and still more preferably 5 wt% or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of (c1) ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or ester(s) thereof, in the third composition used in the present invention may be between 0.5% and 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 0.5% and 10% by weight, and even more preferably between 0.5% and 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Cationic Surfactant)

The third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c2) at least one cationic surfactant. Two or more kinds of cationic surfactants can be used in combination.

The above explanations concerning the (b4) cationic surfactant to be used in the second composition can be applied to the (c2) cationic surfactant to be used in the third composition.

The cationic surfactants (c2) which can be used in the third composition include quaternary ammonium and diammonium salts, for example distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetylmethylammonium chloride (such as, for example, the products sold under the trademark Dehyquart A by Cognis, or Quartamin 60 W25 by Kao, or Genamin CTAC 25 by Clariant), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the products sold for example by Clariant under the trade name Genamin KDMP or Genamin BTLF, or by Evonik Goldschmidt under the name Varisoft BT 85), behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, oleocetyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chloride, behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride (such as the product sold by Kao as Quartamin BTC 131) stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salt such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethosulfate ylammonium (INCI name cetearyl alcohol (and) dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methosulfate) (such as the product Dehyquart F 30 from Cognis), di(CrC2 alkyl)(C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ alkyl)hydroxy(CrC ₂ alkyl)ammonium salts, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salt in which the alkyl radical preferably comprises 12 to 24 carbon atoms, propane-tallow-diammonium dichloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

In a particular embodiment, the (c2) cationic surfactant is chosen from behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, cetrimonium methosulfate and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the cationic surfactant (c2) in the third composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight. weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cationic surfactant (c2) in the third composition used in the present invention may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the cationic surfactant (c2) in the third composition used in the present invention may range from 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight, and so more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Aminosilicone)

The third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c3) at least one aminosilicone. Two or more types of aminosilicones can be used in combination.

The subsequent explanations regarding the aminosilicone (d1) to be used in the fourth composition can be applied to the aminosilicone (c3) to be used in the third composition.

The amount of the aminosilicone (c3) in the third composition used in the present invention may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the aminosilicone (c3) in the third composition used in the present invention may be 15 wt% or less, preferably 10 wt% or less, and more preferably 5 wt% or less. , based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the aminosilicone (c3) in the third composition used in the present invention may range from 0.01% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, and from more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Water)

The third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c4) water.

The amount of (c4) water may be 65 wt% or more, preferably 70 wt% or more, and more preferably 75 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the third composition .

The amount of (c4) water may be less than or equal to 95% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 90% by weight, and more preferably less than or equal to 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the third build.

The amount of (c4) water may be between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 90% by weight, and more preferably between 75% and 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the third composition.

(fatty alcohol)

The third composition used in the present invention may further comprise (c5) at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more types of fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

The term "fat" here means the inclusion of a relatively large number of carbon atoms. Thus, alcohols that have 6 or more, preferably 8 or more, and more preferably 10 or more carbon atoms fall within the scope of fatty alcohols. Fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated. Fatty alcohol can be linear or branched. Two or more types of fatty alcohols can be used in combination.

The fatty alcohol can have the structure R-OH in which R is chosen from saturated and unsaturated, linear and branched radicals, containing from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In at least one embodiment, R is selected from C12-C24 alkyl and C12-C24 alkenyl. R may or may not be substituted with at least one hydroxyl group.

Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols which may be mentioned include lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, arachidonic alcohol, erucic alcohol, cetearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof.

Examples of suitable fatty alcohols include, but are not limited to, cetyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty alcohol can represent a mixture of fatty alcohols, which means that several species of fatty alcohol can coexist, as a mixture, in a commercial product.

According to at least one embodiment, the fatty alcohol used in the third composition is chosen from cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol.

The amount of fatty alcohol (c5) in the third composition used in the present invention may be 0.1% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of fatty alcohol (c5) in the third composition used in the present invention may be 20 wt% or less, preferably 15 wt% or less, and more preferably 10 wt% or less. , based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of fatty alcohol (c5) in the third composition used in the present invention may range from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and more. preferably from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Optional components)

The third composition used in the present invention may further comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, other optional components typically used in cosmetics, namely nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, oils, tinctures, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, preservatives and others, within a range that does not affect the effects of present invention.

The third composition according to the present invention may comprise the other optional component(s) above in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Preparation)

The third composition used in the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients mentioned above in accordance with one of the methods well known to those skilled in the art.

The third composition used in the present invention may be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. It is preferable that the third composition is in the form of an emulsion.

(Apps)

The third composition can be used for treatment, for example for the care or conditioning of keratinous fibers. The third composition may also be effective in improving combing and smoothness. Furthermore, the third composition can be useful for strengthening keratinous fibers.

The third composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition for the hair.

For example, the third composition can be used in cosmetic hair care products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the third composition is in the form of a mask.

{Fourth composition}

The fourth composition which can be used in the present invention comprises (d1) at least one aminosilicone. Two or more types of aminosilicones can be used in combination.

According to the present invention, the (d1)aminosilicone may have a degree of polymerization lower than 2000, preferably lower than 1500, and more preferably lower than 1000.

The degree of polymerization is the number of repeating units that form a polymer. The degree of polymerization here represents an average value of the degree of polymerization, preferably a number average value of the degree of polymerization.

As (d1)aminosilicone, any aminosilicone compound in the field of cosmetics can be used.

The term "aminosilicone" here means a silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine group or at least one quaternary ammonium group.

As (d1)aminosilicone which can be used in the present invention, the following can be cited:

(i) The polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (A):

wherein x' and y' are independently integers such that the sum of x' and y' is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and even more preferably less than 1000;

(ii) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (B):

R'_ToG_{( 3-a )}-Si(OSiG₂)_not-(OSiG_bR'_{( 2-b )})_m-O-SiG_{( 3-a ' )}R'_{To '} (B)

in which :

G independently denotes a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, OH, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl, or a C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy group, for example methoxy,

a and a' independently designate the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0;

b denotes the number 0 or 1, and in particular 1;

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) lies, for example, in a range extending from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to less than 1 999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m possibly designating a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

R' independently denotes a monovalent group of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the following groups:

-NR''-QN(R'') ₂

-N(R'') ₂

-N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^-

-N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^-

-N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^-

-NR''-QN ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^-

-NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^-

-NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- ,

in which

R″ independently denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon-based group, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl group;

Q represents a linear or branched C _r H _2r group, r being an integer between 2 and 6, preferably between 2 and 4; And

A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable ion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

A group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition (B) is represented by the silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to the formula (C):

wherein n and m have the meanings given above in formula B.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the silicones corresponding to the following formula (D) or (E):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) can range from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249, and more particularly from 125 to 175, and m a number from 1 to 1,000 and in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ independently represent a hydroxy group or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group, in which at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₃ denotes an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is preferably in the range from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more preferably is 0.3: 1.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably in the range of 2,000 to 1,000,000, more preferably 3,500 to 200,000.

in which :

p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) ranges from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349, and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q a number from 1 to 1,000, in particular from 1 to 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5;

R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy group, where at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ groups denotes an alkoxy group.

The alkoxy group is preferably a methoxy group.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio is generally in the range of 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 2,000 and 200,000, more particularly between 5,000 and 100,000 and more particularly between 10,000 and 50,000.

The commercial products corresponding to these silicones corresponding to the structure (D) or (E) can include in their composition one or more other aminosilicones whose structure is different from the formula (D) or (E).

A product containing an aminosilicone having structure (D) is sold by Wacker under the name BELSIL ADM 652.

A product containing an aminosilicone having structure (E) is sold by Wacker under the name FLUID WR 1300®.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (F):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) ranges, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000 and more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

A preferred silicone of formula (F) is amodimethicone sold under the trade name XIAMETER® MEM-8299 Cationic Emulsion by Dow Corning.

Another group of aminosilicones corresponding to this definition is represented by the following formula (G):

in which :

m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) goes, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, knowing that n can designate a number from 0 to less than 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149, and m a number, for example, from 1 to less than 2000 and in particular from 1 to 10;

A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group containing from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This group is preferably branched.

The weight average molecular weight (Mw) of these aminosilicones is in a range of preferably 500 to 1,000,000 and more particularly 1,000 to 200,000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from Dow Corning.

(iii) Aminosilicones corresponding to formula (H):

in which :

R ₅ independently represents a group based on a monovalent hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group, for example methyl;

R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , bonded to Si via an SiC bond;

Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular a chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example an acetate);

r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 20 and in particular from 2 to 8;

s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

These aminosilicones are described more particularly in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

(iv) Quaternary ammonium silicones corresponding to formula (I):

in which :

R ₇ independently represents a monovalent hydrocarbon group containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or a ring containing 5 or 6 carbon atoms, by example methyl;

R ₆ independently represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene group or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy group, for example C ₁ -C ₈ , bonded to Si via an SiC bond;

R ₈ independently represents a hydrogen atom, a group based on a monovalent hydrocarbon containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl group or an -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ group;

X ⁻ is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride, or an organic acid salt (for example acetate);

r represents an average statistical value from 2 to 200 and in particular from 5 to 100;

These silicones are described, for example, in patent application EP-A 0 530 974.

(v) Aminosilicones of formula (J):

in which :

R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl group;

R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxy group;

m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5;

and in which x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq/g;

(vi) Multiblock polyoxyalkylenated aminosilicones, of (AB)n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block containing at least one amine group.

Said silicones preferably consist of repeated units corresponding to the following general formula:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R- ]

or alternatively

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R'')- R' - O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

in which :

a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, and more particularly from 10 to 100;

b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly from 5 to 30;

x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,000, more particularly from 10 to 5,000;

R'' is a hydrogen atom or a methyl group;

R independently represents a C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon-based group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R independently represents an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - group; preferentially, R independently represents a group -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ -;

R' independently represents a C ₂ -C ₁₂ linear or branched divalent hydrocarbon group, optionally including one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene group, a linear or branched propylene group, a linear or branched butylene group, or a -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH(OH)CH ₂ - group; preferentially, R′ denotes a group
CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane sequences preferably represent between 50 and 95% by mol of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by mol.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular weight (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

Mention may in particular be made of the silicones sold under the names SILSOFT A-843 or SILSOFT A+ by Momentive.

(vii) Alkylaminosilicones corresponding to formulas (K' and K) below:

(K')

in which

R, R' and R' independently represent a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl or hydroxy group,

A is C ₃ alkylene and m and n are such that the sum m+n is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and even more preferably less than 1000 approximately;

in which :

x and y are numbers such that the sum of x and y ranges, for example, from 1 to less than 2,000; preferably, x ranges from 10 to less than 1,500 and especially from 100 to 1,000; preferably, y ranges from 1 to 100;

R1 and R2, preferably independently identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; A denotes a linear or branched alkylene group, containing from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched.

Mention may be made in particular of the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R1 and R2 are independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; mention may in particular be made of dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; and preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

Preferably, the silicone is of formula (K) with:

x ranging, for example, from 10 to 2000 and especially from 100 to 1000;

y ranging from 1 to 100;

A comprising 3 to 6 carbon atoms and especially 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched; and more particularly A is chosen from the following divalent groups: CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And

R1 and R2 being independently linear saturated alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and especially 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups; preferably, R1 and R2, which may be identical or different, being chosen from hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (K) is bis-cetaryl amodimethicone.

Mention may be made in particular of the silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

The aminosilicones of the present disclosure can also be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes comprising primary amine groups at the end of the chain or on the side chains, for example aminopropyl groups at the end of the chain or on the side chains, for example those of formula (A ), (Goat) :

In the formula (A): the value of n is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and still more preferably less than 1000. As an example of aminosilicone (A) , mention may be made of those sold under the names DMS-A11, DMS-A12, DMS-A15, DMS-A21, DMS-A31, DMS-A32 and DMS-A35 by the company Gelest.

In formula (B), the sum of n and m is such that it is preferably less than 2,000, more preferably less than 1,500, and even more preferably less than 1,000. As examples of silicone (B), mention may be made of those sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the company Shin Etsu.

In formula (C), the value of n is preferably less than 2000, more preferably less than 1500, and still more preferably less than 1000. As examples of silicone (C), mention may be made of those sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

Preferably, the (d1)aminosilicone used for the present invention is an amodimethicone. In one embodiment, the (d1)aminosilicone is bis-cetaryl amodimethicone. In another embodiment, the (d1)aminosilicone is aminopropyl dimethicone.

Aminosilicones suitable for use in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, volatile and nonvolatile, cyclic, linear, and branched aminosilicones having a viscosity range of 5×10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² / s at 25°C, for example from 1×10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s.

The amount of the (d1)aminosilicone in the fourth composition may be 0.01% by weight or more, preferably 0.1% by weight or more, and more preferably 1% by weight or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d1)aminosilicone in the fourth composition may be 15% by weight or less, preferably 10% by weight or less, and more preferably 5% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d1)aminosilicone in the fourth composition can be between 0.01% and 15% by weight, preferably between 0.1% and 10% by weight, and more preferably between 1% and 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

(Silicone)

The fourth composition which can be used in the present invention can further comprise (d2) at least one silicone other than (d1) aminosilicone. Only one type of silicone can be used, or two or more different types of silicone can be used in combination.

It is preferable for the (d2) silicone to be chosen from silicone oils.

By “silicone oil”, we mean here a silicone compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste at room temperature (25°C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). As silicone oils, those which are generally used in cosmetics can be used singly or in combination.

Silicones or organopolysiloxanes are defined, for example, by Walter NOLL in “Chemistry and Technology of Silicones” (1968), Academic Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

Thus, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from volatile silicones, non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof.

Thus, the silicone oil can comprise either at least one volatile silicone oil, or at least one non-volatile silicone oil, or both at least one volatile silicone oil and at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

The volatile or non-volatile silicone can be chosen from linear, branched or cyclic silicones, optionally modified with at least one organo-functional moiety or group.

For example, the silicone oil can be selected from the group consisting of polydialkylsiloxanes such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polyalkylarylsiloxanes such as phenyltrimethicone, polydiarylsiloxanes and organically modified polysiloxanes comprising at least one moiety or one organo- functional group chosen from poly(oxyalkylene) moieties or groups, alkoxy or alkoxyalkyl moieties or groups, hydroxyl or hydroxyl moieties or groups, acyloxy or acyloxyalkyl moieties or groups, carboxylic acid or carboxylate moieties or groups, acrylic moieties or groups and oxazoline moieties.

If the silicone oil(s) is (are) volatile, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from among those whose boiling point is included between 60°C and 260°C, for example:

(i) cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7 atoms, for example, from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. Non-limiting examples of these siloxanes include octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold, for example, under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE and SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the trade name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, KF-995 by SHIN ETSU, and mixtures thereof. Cyclomethanes can also be used, for example those marketed under the references DC 244, DC 245, DC 344, DC 345 and DC 246 by DOW CORNING. Cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type can also be used, such as, for example, SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of formula

Or :

Combinations of cyclic silicones such as polydialkylsiloxanes with organic silicon compounds can also be used, such as a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50), and a mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '-(hexa-2,2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane; And

(ii) volatile linear polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 9 silicon atoms. A non-limiting example of such a compound is decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed, for example, under the trade name “SH-200” by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones belonging to this class are also described, for example, in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32--TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics".

If the silicone oil(s) is (are) volatile, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from cyclic silicones.

On the other hand, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from non-volatile silicones, such as polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polydiarylsiloxanes and organically modified polysiloxanes as explained below. above.

The molecular weight of (d2) silicone, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups, has a weight average molecular weight (Mw) of 300,000 or more, preferably 350,000 or more, preferably 400,000 or more, and preferably 3,000,000 or less, preferably 2,000,000 or less, and more preferably 1,000,000 or less.

According to one embodiment, the (d2) silicone, preferably silicone oil, can be chosen from non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, for example polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups known under the trade name dimethicones.

The (d2) silicones which are preferred according to the present invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, such as oils having a viscosity at 25° C. greater than 1,000,000 cSt (mm ² /s), even more preferably a viscosity greater than 2,000,000 cSt, and even more particularly greater than 5,000,000 cSt, better still greater than 10,000,000 cSt and preferably less than 50,000,000 cSt, better still less than 30,000,000 cSt, better still less than 15,000,000cSt.

According to the present invention, all the polydimethylsiloxanes can be used as such or in the form of solutions, emulsions, nanoemulsions or microemulsions.

Non-limiting examples of commercial products corresponding to these polydialkylsiloxanes include BY22-029 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd.; nonionic dimethicone oil emulsion), BY22-060 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co. , Ltd.; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), BY22-019 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co, Ltd; nonionic and cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting highly polymerized dimethicone with a cyclic silicone), BY22-020 (product of Dow Corning Toray, Co., Ltd; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a light liquid isoparaffin), KM902 (product of Shin -Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd; nonionic emulsion of highly polymerized dimethicone), KM903 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co, Ltd; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a d highly polymerized imethicone with low viscosity silicone), X-52-2127 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co., Ltd; cationic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), X-52-2162 (product of Shin-Etsu Chemical Co, Ltd.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), EMU101 (product of Momentive Performance Materials, Inc. nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), XS65-B3803 (product from Momentive Performance Materials, Inc.; nonionic emulsion containing a solution obtained by diluting a highly polymerized dimethicone with a low viscosity silicone), DC 7-3100 (product of Dow Corning Toray Silicone, Co, Ltd.).

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes can be chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Non-limiting examples of these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include products marketed under the following trade names:

SILBIONE® fluids from the 70 641 range from RHODIA; RHODORSIL® fluids from the 70 633 and 763 ranges from RHODIA;

phenyltrimethicone fluid marketed under the reference DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by DOW CORNING;

silicones from the PK range from BAYER, for example, the product PK20;

silicones from the PN, PH range of BAYER. for example, the PN1000 and PH1000 products; And

certain fluids from GENERAL ELECTRIC's SF range, such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265.

The organo-modified silicones which can be used according to the present invention include, without limitation, silicones such as those defined above and comprising in their structure at least one fraction or one organo-functional group linked directly or via of a hydrocarbon group.

Organo-modified silicones can include, for example, polyorganosiloxanes including:

polyethyleneoxy and/or polypropyleneoxy fractions optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl fractions, such as the products called dimethicone copolyols marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name DC 1248 and under the trade name DC Q2-5220 and SILWET® fluids L 722, L 7500, L 77, and L 711 marketed by UNION CARBIDE and (C ₁₂ )alkyl-methicone copolyol marketed by DOW CORNING under the trade name Q2 5200;

alkoxylated fractions, such as the product marketed under the trademark “SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755” by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by GOLDSCHMIDT;

hydroxylated fractions, such as the polyorganosiloxanes containing a hydroxyalkyl function described, for example, in French patent application No. FR-A-85 163 34;

acyloxyalkyl moieties, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US Patent No. FR-A-85,163,34, No. 4,957,732;

anionic carboxylic acid moieties, for example, the products described in European Patent No. 0 186 507, marketed by CHISSO CORPORATION, and anionic alkyl carboxylic moieties, such as those present in the product X-22-3701E marketed by SHIN-ETSU; 2-hydroxyalkyl sulfonate; and 2-hydroxyalkyl thiosulfate such as the products marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the trade names “ABIL® S201” and “ABIL® S255”;

acrylic fractions, such as the products marketed under the names VS80 and VS70 by 3M; And

oxazoline moieties

The silicones which can be used according to the present invention can contain 1 or 2 oxazoline groups; for example, poly(2-methyl oxazoline-b-dimethyl siloxane-b-2-methyl oxazoline) and poly(2-ethyl-2-oxazoline-dimethyl siloxane). The products marketed by KAO under the references OX-40, OS-51, OS-96 and OS-88 can also be used.

Polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol terminal groups can also be used, for example, those sold under the trade name dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the fluids of the 48 range marketed by RHODIA.

If the silicone oil(s) is (are) not volatile, the silicone oil(s) can be chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes and polydimethylsiloxanes modified with organic compounds.

It is preferable for the silicone oil to be chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicone oils, such as volatile or non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) containing a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes containing pendant alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups and/or at the end (at the ends) of the silicone chain, these groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenylsilicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; and organo-modified silicones such as dimethiconol.

It is possible to use a combination of at least one volatile silicone and at least one non-volatile silicone, such as silicone oil. Non-limiting examples of such combinations include a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane and dimethiconol, marketed, for example, under the trade name Xiameter PMX-1501 Fluid by Dow Corning.

It is preferable that the degree of polymerization of the (d2) silicone be less than 2000, preferably less than 1500, and even more preferably less than 1000.

The amount of the (d2) silicone in the fourth composition may be 0.1 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 1 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d2) silicone in the fourth composition may be 30% by weight or less, preferably 25% by weight or less, and more preferably 20% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition.

The amount of the (d2) silicone in the fourth composition can range from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight. , based on the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the weight ratio (d1) aminosilicone / (d2) silicone can be from 0.01 to 5, preferably from 0.1 to 1, and more preferably from 0.2 at 0.5.

(Water)

The fourth composition may further comprise (d3) water.

The amount of (d3) water in the fourth composition may be 65 wt% or more, preferably 70 wt% or more, and more preferably 75 wt% or more, based on the total weight of composition.

The amount of (d3) water in the fourth composition may be 95% by weight or less, preferably 90% by weight or less, and more preferably 85% by weight or less, based on the total weight of composition.

The amount of (d3) water in the fourth composition can be between 65% and 95% by weight, preferably between 70% and 90% by weight, and more preferably between 75% and 85% by weight, based on the total weight of the fourth composition.

(Optional components)

The fourth composition according to the present invention may further comprise, in addition to the aforementioned essential/optional components, other optional components typically used in cosmetics, namely nonionic, cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactants, cationic polymers, oils such as as ester oils, tints, fillers, polyols such as glycols and glycerol, hydrophilic or lipophilic thickeners, UV filters, natural extracts derived from animals or plants, preservatives and others, in a range which does not affect the effects of the present invention.

The fourth composition according to the present invention may comprise the other optional component(s) above in an amount of 0.001% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

(Preparation)

The fourth composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the essential and optional ingredients above in accordance with one of the methods well known to those skilled in the art.

The fourth composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a fluid, preferably a liquid or a paste, and more preferably a liquid. It is preferable for the fourth composition according to the present invention to be in the form of an emulsion.

(Apps)

The fourth composition can be used to treat, for example care for or condition, keratinous fibers. The fourth composition may also be effective in improving combing and smoothness. Furthermore, the fourth composition can be useful for obtaining lasting cosmetic effects, even after several shampoos.

The fourth composition may be a cosmetic composition, preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition, and more preferably a rinse-type cosmetic composition for the hair.

For example, the fourth composition can be used in cosmetic hair care products such as conditioners and the like. It is preferable that the fourth composition is in the form of a cream.

{Processing steps}

According to the method of the present invention, the keratinous fibers such as the hair are treated with the first, second and third compositions sequentially or simultaneously.

Thus, the method for treating keratinous fibers, such as the hair, according to the present invention, comprises the following steps (1), (2) and (3) in this sequence:

(1) optionally, treating the keratinous fibers with the first composition as explained above;

(2) treatment of the keratinous fibers with the second composition as explained above; And

(3) treatment of keratinous fibers with the third composition as explained above.

It is possible to carry out, if necessary, a rinsing step and/or a drying step between step (1) and step (2), and/or between step (2) and step (3) and/or after step (3).

The process according to the present invention is not a process for permanently reshaping such as a process for waving or permanently straightening keratinous fibres.

The keratinous fibers to which each of the first, second and third compositions has been applied can be left for an appropriate period of time which is necessary to treat the keratinous fibers. The duration of each treatment is not limited, but it may be 1 to 10 minutes, preferably 1 to 5 minutes, and more preferably 1 to 3 minutes. Thus, for example, the total duration of the process according to the present invention may be 3 to 30 minutes, preferably 3 to 15 minutes, and more preferably 3 to 10 minutes.

Keratinous fibers can be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratinous fibers may be heated to a temperature of 25 to 65°C, preferably 30 to 60°C, more preferably 35 to 55°C, and even more preferably 40 to 50°C. , before and/or during and/or after the step of applying each of the first, second and third compositions to the keratinous fibres.

It is preferable that the processing steps (2) and (3) above are carried out separately and sequentially. In other words, it is preferable that steps (2) and (3) above are not performed simultaneously.

It is preferable that, if the above processing step (1) is carried out, the above processing steps (1) and (2) are carried out separately and sequentially. In other words, if the processing step (1) above is carried out, it is preferable that the steps (1) and (2) above are not carried out simultaneously.

The method according to the present invention may also comprise the step of:

(4) treatment of keratinous fibers with the fourth composition as explained above.

Step (4) can be done after step (3).

If necessary, a rinsing step and/or a drying step can be carried out before step (3) and/or between step (3) and step (4) and/or after step (4 ).

The keratinous fibers on which the fourth composition has been applied can be left for an appropriate period of time which is necessary to treat the keratinous fibers. The duration of each treatment is not limited, but it may be 1 to 15 minutes, preferably 1 to 10 minutes, and more preferably 1 to 5 minutes. Thus, for example, the total duration of the process according to the present invention may be 3 to 45 minutes, preferably 3 to 30 minutes, and more preferably 3 to 15 minutes.

Keratinous fibers can be treated at room temperature. Alternatively, the keratinous fibers may be heated to 25°C to 65°C, preferably 30°C to 60°C, more preferably 35°C to 55°C, and even more preferably 40°C to 50°C. ° C, before and/or during and/or after the step of applying the fourth composition to the keratinous fibres.

The above method, according to the present invention, is preferably intended for cosmetic purposes for keratinous fibers, for example, for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, such as the hair, other than the permanent reshaping of keratinous fibers. .

[Kit and use]

The present invention also relates to a kit for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising

(1) an optional first compartment comprising a first composition;

(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition; And

(3) a third compartment comprising a third composition,

Or

the first composition comprises (a1) at least one urea compound,

the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and

the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof.

The explanations concerning the first, second and third compositions described above can be applied to those used in the kit according to the present invention.

One skilled in the art can prepare the kit according to the present invention based on conventional packaging technology. The kit according to the present invention comprises the first optional compartment, the second essential compartment and the third essential compartment, each of which comprises, respectively, the first, second and third compositions separately. The first optional compartment, the second essential compartment and the third essential compartment can be equipped with a dispensing or discharge means such as a pump. The optional first compartment, the second essential compartment and the third essential compartment can be included separately in three separate containers. On the other hand, these compartments can be in a single container.

It is possible to use the kit by following, for example, the following steps:

(1) optionally dispensing or optionally discharging the first optional composition from the first essential compartment, followed by applying the first optional composition to the keratinous fibers to treat the keratinous fibers;

(2) dispensing or discharging the second composition from the second compartment, followed by applying the second composition to the keratinous fibers to treat the keratinous fibers which have already been treated with the first composition; And

(3) dispensing or discharging the third composition from the third compartment, followed by applying the third composition to the keratinous fibers to treat the keratinous fibers which have already been treated with the second composition.

It is possible to carry out, if necessary, a rinsing step and/or a drying step between step (1) and step (2), and/or between step (2) and step (3) and/or after step (3).

The kit according to the present invention may further comprise a fourth compartment comprising a fourth composition comprising (d1) at least one aminosilicone, as explained above.

In this case, the next step (4) of

4) dispensing or discharging the fourth composition from the fourth compartment, followed by the application of the fourth composition to the keratinous fibers in order to treat the keratinous fibers which have already been treated with the third composition

can be performed after step (3).

The explanations concerning the fourth composition described above can be applied to that used in the kit according to the present invention.

If necessary, a rinsing step and/or a drying step can be carried out between step (3) and step (4) and/or after step (4).

The present invention also relates to the use of a combination of at least

(1) optionally treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition;

(2) treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition; And

(3) treating keratinous fibres, preferably hair, with a third composition,

Or

the first composition comprises (a1) at least one urea compound,

the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and

the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof,

to improve the combing of the keratinous fibers and/or to improve the smoothness of the keratinous fibres.

Improving combing includes making combing easier. Improving smoothness includes making the touch feeling smoother.

The explanations concerning the first, second and third compositions described above can be applied to those used in the use according to the present invention.

The combination in use according to the present invention may further comprise (4) the treatment of keratinous fibres, preferably the hair, with a fourth composition comprising (d1) at least one aminosilicone.

The explanations concerning the fourth composition described above can be applied to that used in the use according to the present invention.

The above kit and use is preferably intended for cosmetic purposes for keratinous fibres, for example for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibres, such as the hair, other than the permanent reshaping of keratinous fibres.

EXAMPLES

The present invention will be described in more detail by means of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.

First composition

Preparation

The first composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 1. The numerical values of the amounts of ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" of active materials.

% in weight Urea 5 Glycerin 20 Propylene glycol 10 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 Buffer 1.2 Sodium hydroxide qs pH7.5 Deionized water qsp 100

Second composition

Preparation

The second composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 2. The numerical values of the amounts of ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" of active materials.

wt% Glycerin 15 wisteria 5 Propylene glycol 5 Hydroxypropyl trimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein 0.91 Citric acid 2.95 Cetrimonium chloride 0.5 Quaternium-80 0.38 Polysorbate-20 0.8 Polysorbate-80 0.8 Sodium hydroxide qs pH 4.0 Deionized water qsp 100

Third composition

Preparation

The third composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 3. The numerical values of the amounts of ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" of active materials.

% in weight Cetearyl alcohol (and) Behentrimonium methosulfate 10 Amodimethicone 3 Behentrimonium chloride 1.5 Butylene Glycol 1 Bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate 2 Scent 0.5 Starch Hydroxypropyl Phosphate 1 Aminopropyl dimethicone 1 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.25 Lauryl laurate 2 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Deionized water qsp 100

Fourth composition

Preparation

The fourth composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients shown in Table 4. The numerical values of the amounts of ingredients are all based on the "% by weight" of active materials.

% in weight Isopropyl myristate 3.5 Dimethicone 1.7 Aminopropyl dimethicone 3 Polyquaternium-4 0.3 Behentrimonium chloride 0.3 Modified potato starch 0.3 Hydroxypropyl guar 0.25 Carbomer 0.45 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Scent 0.5 Triethanolamine qs pH 7.5 Deionized water qsp 100

Hair treatments

[Example 1]

The second and third compositions were selected, and used to treat a braid of natural hair fibers according to the following steps.

1. The hair has been shampooed and rinsed with water.

2. After rinsing, the second composition was applied by hand to the braid.

3. The braid was left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

4. Then the third composition was applied to the braid by hand.

5. The braid was left at least 5 minutes in the heat (50°C).

6. The braid was rinsed with water and dried.

Ratings

Immediately after drying the braid of hair treated with the above hair treatment according to Example 1, the "combing", "smoothness" and "manageability" of the braid of hair were evaluated by four professional panelists, by sensory evaluation, compared to the reference (untreated hair braid) based on the following criteria.

On the other hand, after drying the hair treated with the aforementioned treatment in accordance with Example 1, the hair was shampooed three times and dried, and then "combing", "smoothness" and "manageability » hair was evaluated by four professional experts, by sensory evaluation, compared to the reference (untreated hair) on the basis of the following criteria.

(Combing)

5: very excellent

4: excellent

3: parity with reference

2: bad

1: very bad

(Smooth character)

5: very excellent

4: excellent

3: parity with reference

2: bad

1: very bad

(Management capacity)

5: very excellent

4: excellent

3: parity with reference

2: bad

1: very bad

The results are shown in Table 5.

Example 1 First composition No Second composition Yes third Composition Yes Fourth composition No Immediately after drying Combing 5 Smooth character 5 Management capacity 4.5 Hair conditioner
thrice Combing 5 Smooth character 4.6 Management capacity 3.8

The hair treatment according to example 1, which used the second and third compositions, made it possible to improve the combing and the smoothness of the hair compared to untreated hair.

Hair treatments

Example 2

The first, second and third compositions were selected and used to treat a braid of natural hair fibers according to the following steps.

1. The hair has been shampooed and rinsed with water.

2. After rinsing, the first composition was applied by hand to the braid.

3. The braid was left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

4. Then the second composition was applied to the braid by hand.

5. The braid was left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

6. Then the third composition was applied to the braid by hand.

7. The braid has been left for at least 5 minutes in the heat (50°C).

8. The braid was rinsed with water and dried.

Example 3

The first, second, third and fourth compositions were selected and used to treat a braid of natural hair fibers according to the following steps.

1. The hair has been shampooed and rinsed with water.

2. After rinsing, the first composition was applied by hand to the braid.

3. The braid was left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

4. Then the second composition was applied to the braid by hand.

5. The braid was left for 5 minutes at room temperature.

6. Then the third composition was applied to the braid by hand.

7. The braid has been left for at least 5 minutes in the heat (50°C).

8. The braid has been rinsed with water.

9. Then the fourth composition was applied to the braid by hand.

10. The braid has been dried.

Ratings

Immediately after drying the braid of hair treated with each of the above hair treatments according to Examples 1 and 2, the "combing", "smoothness" and "manageability" of the braid of hair were evaluated. by four professional panelists, by sensory evaluation, compared to the reference (example 1) on the basis of the following criteria.

On the other hand, after drying the braid of hair treated with each of the above hair treatments according to Examples 1 and 2, the braid of hair was shampooed three times and dried, then "combing", the "smoothness and the "manageability" of the hair braid were evaluated by four professional panelists, by sensory evaluation, against the reference (Example 1) based on the following criteria.

(Combing)

5: very excellent

4: excellent

3: parity with reference

2: bad

1: very bad

(Smooth character)

5: very excellent

4: excellent

3: parity with reference

2: bad

1: very bad

(Management capacity)

5: very excellent

4: excellent

3: parity with reference

2: bad

1: very bad

The results are shown in Table 6.

Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 First composition No Yes Yes Second composition Yes Yes Yes third Composition Yes Yes Yes Fourth composition No No Yes Immediately after drying Combing 3 4 4.4 Smooth character 3 4 4 Management capacity 3 3 3 Hair conditioner
thrice Combing 3 3 4 Smooth character 3 3.4 4.5 Management capacity 3 3 3

Note that the reference for Table 6 is Example 1.

The hair treatment of example 2, which used the first, second and third compositions, made it possible to further improve the combing and the smoothness of the hair compared to the hair treatment of example 1, which did not use the first build.

The hair treatment of example 3, which used the first, second, third and fourth compositions, also made it possible to further improve the combing and the smoothness of the hair, compared to the hair treatment of example 1, which did not did not use the first composition.

The hair treatment of Example 3, which used the first, second, third and fourth compositions, also made it possible to improve the combing just after drying the hair, as well as the combing and the smoothness of the hair after three shampoos, compared to the hair treatment of Example 2, which did not use the fourth composition.

Claims (10)

Process for treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising the following steps
(1) optionally, treating the keratinous fibers with a first composition;
(2) treatment of the keratinous fibers with a second composition; And
(3) treatment of keratinous fibers with a third composition,
Or
the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,
the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and
the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. Process according to claim 1, wherein the (a1) compound selected from urea and/or urea derivatives in the first composition is selected from the group consisting of urea, hydroxyethyl urea and a mixture thereof. this. Process according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the quantity of the compound (a1) chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives in the first composition ranges from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0 .5% to 15% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. A method according to any of claims 1 to 3, wherein the (b1) cationic polyamino acid in the second composition is selected from the group consisting of cationized collagen, cationized gelatin, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropylstardimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed conchiolin protein, hydroxypropyl steardimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, hydroxypropyl cocodimonium hydrolyzed soy protein, and a mixture thereof. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the amount of the cationic polyamino acid(s) (b1) in the second composition is 0.2% by weight or more, preferably 0.3 wt% or more, and more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which the (c1) ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, in the third composition is chosen from the esters of formula following general (I):
R ₃ -OCO-R ₁ (-COO-R ₂ -OCO-R ₁ )n-COO-R ₃ (I)
in which :
COR ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,
OR ₂ O represents a fatty alcohol dimer residue,
OR ₃ represents a hydrocarbon-based monoalcohol residue, and
n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,
Or
following general formula (II):
(II)
in which :
n is an integer ranging from 1 to 15,
COR' ₁ CO represents a fatty diacid dimer residue,
OR' ₂ O represents a diglyceryl residue of general formula (III) below:
(III)
in which :
R' ₃ represents H or OR' ₃ represents a fatty acid residue,
Or
following general formula (IV):
HO-R ₁ '-(-OCO-R ₂ ''-COO-R ₁ ''-)h-OH(IV)
in which :
OR ₁ ''O represents a diol dimer residue obtained by hydrogenation of a dimer dilinoleic acid,
COR ₂ ''CO represents a fatty acid dimer residue, and
h represents an integer ranging from 1 to 9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the (c1) ester of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof, in the third composition is selected from the group consisting of esters having the following INCI nomenclature: polyglyceryl-2 isostearate/dimerdilinoleate copolymer, bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate, and a mixture thereof. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the quantity of the ester(s) of polyol(s) and fatty diacid dimer, or of its ester(s), in the third composition is 0.5 wt% or more, preferably 0.5 wt% or more, and more preferably 0.5 wt% or more, based on the total weight of the composition. Kit for keratinous fibers, preferably hair, comprising
(1) an optional first compartment comprising a first composition;
(2) a second compartment comprising a second composition; And
(3) a third compartment comprising a third composition,
in which
the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,
the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and
the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof. Using a combination of at least,
(1) optionally treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, with a first composition;
(2) treating keratinous fibers, preferably hair, with a second composition; And
(3) treating keratinous fibres, preferably hair, with a third composition,
Or
the first composition comprises (a1) at least one compound chosen from urea and/or urea derivatives,
the second composition comprises (b1) at least one cationic polyamino acid, and
the third composition comprises (c1) at least one ester of polyol(s) and of fatty diacid dimer, or an ester thereof,
to improve the combing of the keratinous fibers and/or to improve the smoothness of the keratinous fibres.