FR3117783A1 - ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A COMPACT POWDER COMPRISING A MAGNESIUM SALT AND BINDERS - Google Patents

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A COMPACT POWDER COMPRISING A MAGNESIUM SALT AND BINDERS The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for treating body odors resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity. , which comprises at least one magnesium salt and binders. It also relates to a cosmetic process for treating body odor resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION IN THE FORM OF A COMPACT POWDER COMPRISING A MAGNESIUM SALT AND BINDERS

The present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for treating body odor resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, which comprises at least one magnesium salt and binders. It also relates to a cosmetic process for treating body odor and/or managing the sensation of humidity, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin.

In the cosmetics field, it is well known to use, in topical application, deodorant products containing active substances of the antiperspirant type or of the deodorant type to reduce or even eliminate body odors, in particular underarm odors, which are generally unpleasant.

Eccrine or apocrine sweat is generally low in odor when secreted. It is its degradation by bacteria via enzymatic reactions that produces malodorous compounds. Deodorant active ingredients thus have the function of reducing or preventing the formation of bad odors. This goal can be achieved in particular through a deodorant and/or antiperspirant activity.

The different systems proposed so far can be grouped into large families. A first family concerns bad odor absorbers. These absorbers "capture" or reduce the volatility of odorous compounds. Also known are bactericidal substances, preferably selective strains responsible for odors, or limiting the growth of bacteria. Among the bactericidal substances which destroy the resident bacterial flora, the most widely used is Triclosan (2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenylether). Among the substances that decrease the growth of bacteria are transition metal chelators such as EDTA or DPTA. Substances blocking the enzymatic reactions responsible for the formation of odorous compounds are also known, in particular arylsulfatase, 5-lipoxygenase, aminocylase or β-glucoronidase inhibitors. A deodorant activity can also be obtained by neutralizing the volatile compounds responsible for the smell.

Finally, aluminum and/or zirconium salts are also used as antibacterials. These salts play a direct role in deodorant effectiveness by reducing the number of bacteria responsible for breaking down sweat. However, these different treatments applied to the skin of the armpits tend to cause skin alterations.

Deodorant products are generally available in roll-on, tube, stick, aerosol or spray form. The most effective galenics for combating malodor are alcoholic galenics. However, they have the disadvantage of causing discomfort at the time of application, especially after shaving the armpit. Emulsions have the disadvantage of being wetting and difficult to dry under the armpit. Anhydrous sticks and aerosols are greasy formulations that leave a greasy feel under the armpit and some of which tend to transfer onto clothing, leaving visible and unsightly marks.

More natural deodorant compositions without aluminum salts are already available, but it turns out that their deodorant effectiveness generally does not exceed 4 hours after application.

There is therefore a constant need for a composition for treating body odors linked to human perspiration, in particular underarm odors, which does not have all of the drawbacks described above. Compositions which make it possible to dispense with the use of aluminum salts and/or complexes of aluminum and zirconium, while providing deodorant efficacy for more than 24 hours, are in particular sought today.

The object of the present invention is in particular to meet these expectations.

As mentioned above, the present invention relates to an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for treating body odor resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, which comprises at least one magnesium salt and binders.

PCT application WO 93/17660 describes cosmetic compositions in powder form containing, as binder, a silicone fatty binder consisting of at least one silicone oil, at least one silicone wax, at least one silicone resin, and optionally at least one silicone gum and at least one phenyldimethicone.

Document EP 0 717 979 describes a process for the preparation of a composition comprising a fatty phase which is predominantly liquid, or even essentially liquid, in particular based on oil of parleum, and a pulverulent phase, according to which the pulverulent phase is dispersed in a oil-in-water emulsion, the dispersion thus obtained is poured into a mold and then dried by freeze-drying.

Document EP 0 792 633 relates to the use of liquid esters having a wettability ranging from 30 seconds to ten minutes, such as for example glyceryl triisostearate, as binders for compositions in the form of powders, in particular compacted ones.

Patent EP 0 923 927 describes pulverulent compositions for topical application comprising at least one pulverulent compound whose particles are bonded together by a binder comprising a liquid fatty phase and at least 2% by weight of dispersible polymer in said liquid fatty phase.

In the context of the present invention, the Applicant has developed a cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for the treatment of body odors resulting from perspiration and/or for the management of the sensation of humidity, not requiring the presence of salts of aluminum and . Indeed, the Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that all of the aforementioned objectives can be achieved by the composition according to the present invention.

According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is thus an anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for treating body odors resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, comprising, in a cosmetically allowable:

a) 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of liquid binder comprising a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature, said fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature preferably having a viscosity of less than 10 mPa.s;

b) 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of solid binder comprising magnesium stearate;

c) 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one structuring mineral filler chosen from clays;

d) 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least 2 types of destructuring fillers including:

d1) 5 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the destructuring fillers d), of at least one pearlite;

d2) 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the destructuring fillers d), of at least one additional filler whose shape is preferably spherical or rod-shaped, preferably chosen from: starches, polyamide powders and silica powders;

e) 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one magnesium salt.

According to a second aspect, the present invention also relates to a cosmetic method for treating body odor resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin.

The combination of magnesium salt(s), of the aforementioned binders and fillers, in the aforementioned contents in an anhydrous composition in the form of a compact powder, for example an anhydrous stick, according to the invention makes it possible to limit the formation of malodorous odors armpits for a very long time, especially for at least 24 hours.

The composition according to the invention in the form of a compact powder allows the deposition of a thin film of powder under the armpit while retaining the robustness of the powder stick with a deodorant performance.

In addition, the anhydrous composition in the form of a compact powder makes it possible to achieve a level of performance equivalent to deodorants in roll-on form for example, but by depositing 10 times less product.

In addition, the composition in the form of a compact powder according to the invention allows an easy and sufficient deposition of composition in a simple pass on the skin, without sticky effect, does not cause irritation, and makes it possible to obtain a dry and not fat.

By “deodorant agent” or “deodorant active ingredient”, is meant any substance or any composition capable of substantially reducing, or even eliminating, unpleasant odors, in particular body odor, in particular the unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition human sweat by bacteria.

"Cosmetic process for treating body odor resulting from perspiration" means a process which, when applied to human skin, substantially reduces or even eliminates unpleasant odors, in particular body odor, in particular unpleasant odor resulting from the decomposition of human sweat by bacteria.

By “cosmetic process for managing the sensation of humidity”, is meant a process which, implemented on human skin, induces an instantaneous sensation of a reduction in the sensation of humidity associated with human sweat.

By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with the skin and/or its appendages or mucous membranes which has a pleasant color, smell and feel and which does not generate discomfort (such as tightness) likely to divert the consumer to use this composition. Said cosmetically acceptable medium is also a medium which does not stain clothes and leaves a thin film of white powder. Said cosmetically acceptable medium is anhydrous.

By “anhydrous”, is meant a composition comprising less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of composition, preferably less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight. Preferably, an anhydrous composition is a composition completely free of water.

Composition in the form of a compact powder

The compositions according to the invention are in the form of a compact powder. This compacted appearance is obtained by subjecting the components of the composition according to the invention to compression.

More particularly, the compositions in the form of a compact powder in accordance with the invention can be prepared by mixing all the components. The mixing of dry powder can be carried out via a mixer granulator. The mixture is then compacted. This compacting is generally carried out using a press, in particular by applying a pressure of between 2 and 2.5 US tons to obtain the expected compact powder.

The interval between 2 and 2.5 US tons corresponds to a pressure between 1.8 and 2.3 tons or to a pressure between 17.65 kN (kilonewton) and 22.6 kN.

Optionally, crushing can be followed by sieving.

Consequently, the compositions according to the invention are different from the compositions qualified as castings, which are prepared by simple mixing of a fatty phase in the molten state with a pulverulent phase.

The fact that the compositions are in a compact form gives them, compared to compositions of the cast type, a better ability to disintegrate in the form of “free” solid particles.

Thus, it is possible, after decompacting a compact composition according to the invention, to recover its pulverulent phase, which is not possible for a cast composition.

By “composition in the form of a compact powder”, is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compacting or pressing during manufacture.

It is understood in particular that the compaction of the powder is carried out at a pressure of between 2 and 2.5 US tons (even between 1.8 and 2.3 tons or between 17.65 kN and 22.6 kN).

In particular, the composition in the form of a compact powder meets criteria of robustness (disintegration) and hardness.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has satisfactory hardness and disintegration properties. In other words, it has satisfactory storage stability and in particular does not deteriorate (or only slightly) when it is subjected to shocks. Finally, it also has a good ability to pick up and apply.

As regards these two mechanical properties, they can be measured, in the context of the present invention, according to the protocols described below.

Robustness :

• Robustness is for example assessed via a guided drop test from a height of 30cm with and without a pack and rated according to a scale (average 9 drops).

Application deposit:

• Deposit tests are carried out according to methods well known to those skilled in the art.

Preferably, the solid composition according to the invention is in the form of a rod or stick.

Actis deodorants

The anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder according to the invention comprises from 4% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one magnesium salt.

When the magnesium salt content is not between 4 and 20%, the deodorant effect is not optimal. In addition, the compromise between the robustness of the compact powder, deodorant performance and safety is not reached.

Preferably, the magnesium salt is chosen from magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the magnesium salt is magnesium oxide. magnesium oxide is the compound of formula MgO.

Preferably, the magnesium salt is present in a content ranging from 4 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, the content is expressed in active ingredient.

In addition, the composition according to the invention may comprise other deodorant active agents.

In particular, the composition according to the invention also comprises zinc pidolate (Zn PCA), preferably in a content of at most 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, the content is expressed in active ingredient

Zinc pidolate, or pyrrolidone carboxylic acid zinc salt, is a cosmetic active ingredient with antimicrobial properties. To a lesser extent, it also has the advantage of binding to acid molecules present in perspiration via an acid-base reaction, thus limiting their volatility.

Its chemical formula is as follows:

More particularly, the composition according to the invention may also comprise magnesium carbonate and/or sodium bicarbonate.

These compounds are preferably present in the composition in an amount of 10 to 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Of course, the content is expressed in active matter.

Preferably, the anhydrous composition in the form of a compact powder according to the invention comprises less than 20% by weight of aluminum salt(s), preferably less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the solid composition according to the invention is completely free of aluminum salt(s).

binders

The composition according to the invention comprises two types of binder: liquid binder and solid binder.

Liquid binder

In the context of the invention, the term “liquid binder” is understood to mean a binder comprising a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature.

In one embodiment, the fatty substance constitutes the liquid binder.

“Room temperature” means a temperature between 20 and 25°C.

Preferably, the fatty substance has a viscosity of less than 10 mPa.s at ambient temperature.

By “fatty substance” is meant, is meant in the context of the present invention, an organic liquid fatty substance which is immiscible in water. This generally comprises one or more hydrophobic compounds which make said phase immiscible in water. Fat is liquid at room temperature.

By way of example, the liquid fatty substance according to the invention is an oil.

By "oil" is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, ie 10 ⁵ Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

By “volatile oil”, is meant in the sense of the invention an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10 ^-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg ).

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 ^-3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa) .

The oil can be chosen from any physiologically acceptable and in particular cosmetically acceptable oil, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable, synthetic oils; in particular volatile or non-volatile hydrocarbon and/or silicone and/or fluorinated oils and mixtures thereof.

More specifically, “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil comprising mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic functions. Generally, the oil has a viscosity of 0.5 to 100,000 mPa.s, preferably 50 to 50,000 mPa.s and more preferably 100 to 300,000 mPa.s.

By way of example of a volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

- volatile hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4 ,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters, iso-hexyl neopentanoate , and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in patent application from Cognis DE10 2008 012 457;

- volatile silicones, such as for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ≤ 8 centistokes (8 10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones comprising optionally alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, mention may in particular be made of octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane;

- and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil. By way of example of a non-volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of:

- vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids with 4 to 24 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or even vegetable oils such as wheat germ oils, olive oil, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, coconut, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye , safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, sunflower, corn, soya, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado , fractionated oil of coco-caprylic/capric acids, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company SASOL;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane;

- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

- synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R ₁ + R ₂ ≥ 10 such as for example Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate , isoamyl laurate, C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, stearate d octyl 2-dodecyl, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, tridecyl trimellitate; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxy stearate, octyl dodecyl hydroxy stearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrytyl tetra-isostearate;

- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleyl alcohol;

- higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid;

- fluorinated oils, optionally partially hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752;

- silicone oils such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates, and

- their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile oil chosen from vegetable oils and in particular wheat germ, olive, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed and cottonseed oils. , coconut, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passion flower, muscat rose , sunflower, corn, soy, pumpkin, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, fractionated oil of coco-caprylic/capric acids and caprylic/capric acid triglycerides; and the ester oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms carbon with R ₁ + R ₂ ³ 10 such as Purcellin's oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isoamyl laurate, C ₁₂ alcohol benzoate at C ₁₅ , hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, octyl 2-dodecyl stearate, octyl 2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate or tridecyl trimellitate.

Advantageously, the liquid fatty substance of the composition of the invention is chosen from at least one oil, preferably non-volatile, preferably chosen from silicone oils and synthetic esters, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R ₂ represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms with R ₁ + R ₂ ≥ 10, and more particularly from non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) and isopropyl palmitate.

Preferably, the liquid binder comprises a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature, such as PDMS or isopropyl palmitate, having a viscosity of less than 10 mPa.s.

The composition according to the invention comprises from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of liquid binder, preferably from 7 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the content is expressed in active matter.

strong binder

In the context of the invention, the term “solid binder” is understood to mean a binder comprising comprising magnesium stearate.

A solid binder is solid at room temperature.

In one embodiment, magnesium stearate constitutes the solid binder.

Magnesium stearate also acts as a lubricant.

The composition according to the invention comprises from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of solid binder, preferably from 2 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The solid binder content plays a role in the cohesive behavior of the product, a content below the aforementioned threshold leading to brittle products, while a higher content than the aforementioned threshold leads to products that are too hard and do not disintegrate. when using them.

When the solid binder consists of magnesium stearate, the latter also having a role of lubricant makes it possible to promote the preparation of the product in the desired form by facilitating the compaction step.

The solid binder content therefore has a significant impact on the compaction and the hardness of the finished product.

Expenses

The composition according to the invention comprises different types of filler.

By “filler”, it is necessary to understand the particles, solids of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition.

Structuring mineral fillers

By "structuring mineral filler", we mean particles capable of deforming or organizing themselves after compression to obtain a cohesive system.

The structuring mineral fillers according to the invention are chosen from clays.

By “clays”, is meant a phyllosilicate of natural or synthetic origin having an appropriate sheet structure, allowing cation adsorption in the interfoliar space.

In particular, the clays according to the invention are chosen from: talc, kaolin and hectorites.

The mineral fillers of the compositions according to the invention are present in a content ranging from 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 30 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the structuring mineral filler according to the invention is chosen from: talc, kaolin, and hectorite, more preferably talc, preferably in a content ranging from 30 to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Of course, the content is expressed in active matter.

Destructuring charges

By “destructuring filler” we mean non-deformable particles that do not allow a cohesive system to be obtained after compression.

In the context of the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises 10 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least 2 types of destructuring fillers comprising:

(1) 5 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the destructuring fillers, of at least one pearlite;

(2) 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the destructuring fillers, of at least one additional filler whose shape is preferably spherical or rod-shaped, preferably chosen from: starches, polyamide powders and powders of silica.

Of course, the content is expressed in active matter.

Preferably, said at least one pearlite is present in a content of less than 30% by weight, more preferably in a content of less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Apart from the quantities of perlite mentioned above, the composition according to the invention in the form of a compact powder is too cohesive and does not disintegrate.

Preferably, the starch is chosen from corn, tapioca, rice or wheat starch. It can be modified or unmodified (also called "native"). Preferably, the starch is native. Preferably, the starch is native corn starch.

Preferably, the polyamide powder is nylon or starch.

Preferably, the polyamide powder is sunsphere H51.

Preferably, the ratio between the destructuring fillers (1): (2) is included in the range of 15:5, 10:5, 5:5, preferably (1):(2)=12:7.

This specific ratio of destructuring fillers optimizes the non-cohesive aspect and the disintegration of the anhydrous composition in the form of a compact powder according to the invention and allows the deposition of a minimum quantity of product, with paradoxically an optimal deodorant performance.

Additives

The composition according to the invention may also comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from opacifiers, stabilizers, preservatives, perfumes, sunscreens, cosmetic active agents, suspending agents, sequestrants, coloring matter or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged.

In particular, the anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder according to the invention comprises at most 2.5%, more preferably 2.3% and even more preferably 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, liquid additives at room temperature.

Ambient temperature means a temperature between 20 and 25°C.

In particular, these additives are chosen from perfumes and/or preservatives.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for treating body odor resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, comprising the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin.

The expressions “between … and …” and “ranging from … to …” must be understood as limits included, unless the contrary is specified.

In the description and the examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are percentages by weight. The temperature is expressed in degrees Celsius unless otherwise indicated.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the non-limiting examples presented below.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are indicated in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of composition (% w/w).

Example 1: anhydrous compositions in the form of compact powders according to the invention and evaluation

1/ The anhydrous compositions A, B and C in the form of a compact powder according to the invention were prepared according to the following protocol using a mixer granulator (BAKER G7-1L):

• Manufacturing on 200g
• Introduce the constituents of A: powder phase baking soda, MgO, starch, magnesium carbonate, perlite, magnesium stearate, nylon, talc, zinc pidolate if present
• Stir for 3 min 30 s: Blade: 3000 rpm ± 10 rpm Clumper 2700 rpm ± 10 rpm –
• Introduce the constituents of B (perfume + Caprilyl Glycol + Isopropyl Palmitate if present + Dimethicone if present) with stirring: Blade: 600 rpm ± 10 rpm Clumper 600 rpm ± 10 rpm –
• Stir for 15min: Blade: 3000 rpm ± 10 rpm Clumper 2700 rpm ± 10 rpm

AT B VS Caprilyl glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Isopropyl Palmitate 7.5 7.5 Baking soda 15 MgO 10 10 4 Starch 7 7 Magnesium carbonate 10 Magnesium Stearate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Perlite 12 12 12 Talc 35.5 60.5 64.5 Dimethicone 7.5 Zinc PCA 2 Nylon-66 7

Tests aimed at measuring the robustness and disintegration capacity of the products have been carried out.

These compositions all demonstrated satisfactory robustness and disintegration (disintegration at approximately 0.05 grams).

2/ Formulas A, B and C are compared with comparative compositions C1 to C3 below.

C1 C2 C3 Dimethicone 7.5 17.5 37.5 MgO 4 4 4 Scent 1 1 1 ZincPCA 2 2 2 Caprilyl glycol 0.5 0.5 0.5 Talc 82.5 53.5 33.5 Magnesium Stearate 2.5 2.5 2.5 Perlite 12 12 Nylon-66 7 7

Compositions C1 to C3 were subjected to the same tests as compositions A to C.

The results of these tests show that without perlite, the stick is too cohesive and does not disintegrate.

Furthermore, a stick with 20% or 40% liquid binder is too cohesive, greasy and exudes on compaction.

App testing

The compositions according to the invention are applied to supplal, an in vitro model of synthetic skin by carrying out 3 round trips. Thirty to sixty applications are made (i.e. 15 to 30 days of use).

The quantity deposited was evaluated by differential weighing of the synthetic skin.

The results made it possible to define an average value of product deposited per application: 0.05g-0.2g.

Example 2 Assessment of malodor in vivo: smell good screening of anhydrous compositions in the form of compact powders according to the invention

The smell good screening is a test to assess the anti-odor performance of a large number of formulas.

It corresponds to a standardized evaluation of the intensity of malodor under the armpit after 24 hours of application. A randomized mono-application on 17 volunteers and an evaluation via an expert panel of 10 people was carried out then 4 back and forth applications under the armpit.

Different anhydrous compositions in compact form according to the invention A, B, C and D are tested:

• Composition A comprising: MgO: 4%, ZnPCA: 2% to be completed with complete composition;
• Composition B comprising: MgO: 10%, to be completed with complete composition;
• Composition C comprising: MgO: 10%, ZnPCA: 4% to be completed with complete composition;
• Composition D comprising: MgO: 10%, NaHCO3: 15% / MgCO3: 10%.

AT B VS D DIMETHICONE 7.5 PEARLITE 12.0 12.0 12.0 12.0 ZINC PCA 2.0 4.0 MAGNESIUM OXIDE 4.0 10.0 10.0 10.0 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 NYLON-66 7.0 MAGNESIUM STEARATE 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 TALC 64.5 60.5 56.5 35.5 ISOPROPYL PALMITATE 7.5 7.5 7.5 ZEA MAYS STARCH 7.0 7.0 7.0 SODIUM BICARBONATE 15.0 MAGNESIUM CARBONATE 10.0

These compositions are compared with the following 2 comparative compositions C1 and C2:

C1 C2 ALLANTOIN 0.1 AQUA 86.4 82.7 PEARLITE 1.0 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.0 BUTYLENE GLYCOL 3.0 CITRIC ACID 0.1 DIMETHICONE 0.5 ZINC GLUCONATE 1.0 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.4 0.5 PPG-15 STEARYL ETHER 3.0 CETEARETH-33 1.3 P-ANISIC ACID 0.2 TALC 0.1 PHENOXYETHANOL 0.5 XANTHAN GUM 0.4 PROPYLENE GLYCOL 15.0 SILICA SILYLATE 0.3 DEHYDROXANTHAN GUM 0.3 CAPRYLOYL SALICYLIC ACID 0.3

The compositions according to the invention are compared in terms of anti-odor performance after 24 hours.

The results are shown in Table 5 below.

Smell good – 4 applications - T24h C1 C2 Composition A = = Composition B = > Composition C = > Composition D = >

This table shows that the anhydrous compositions in the form of compact powders according to the invention are equivalent in the case of Cadum or superior in the case of THER on the performance of the malodor.

These performances are moreover obtained with a deposit of 0.05 g whereas the compositions C1 and C2 were deposited at 0.4 g.

In addition, additional tests are carried out with the aforementioned composition A to compare its anti-odor performance at T0H, T4H and T24H with the following compositions with 3 comparative compositions C3 to C5 whose formulation is different:

• Composition C3 in the form of a Cadum®-type oil-in-water emulsion Roll On comprising 4% MgO;
• Composition C4 in the form of a Roll On oil-in-water emulsion of the Cadum® type comprising 4% MgO;
• Composition C5 in the form of a Roll On oil-in-water emulsion comprising 6% MgO.

The results are shown in Table 6 below.

Composition A C3 C4 C5 Smell good – 4 apps – T0 = = = Smell good – 4 apps – T4h = = = Smell good – 4 apps – T24h = = =

Claims (14)

Anhydrous cosmetic composition in the form of a compact powder, in particular for treating body odors resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium:
a) 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of liquid binder comprising a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature, said fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature preferably having a viscosity of less than 10 mPa.s;
b) 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of solid binder comprising magnesium stearate;
c) 30 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one structuring mineral filler chosen from clays;
d) 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least 2 types of destructuring fillers comprising:
d1) 5 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the destructuring fillers d), of at least one pearlite;
d2) 3 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the destructuring fillers d), of at least one additional filler whose shape is preferably spherical or rod-shaped, preferably chosen from: starches, polyamide powders and silica powders;
e) 4 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one magnesium salt. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the ratio between the destructuring charges d1:d2 is included in the range of 15:5, 10:5, 5:5, preferably d1:d2=12:7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compaction of the powder is carried out at a pressure of between 2 and 2.5 UStonnes. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the magnesium salt is chosen from magnesium oxide, magnesium carbonate, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium bicarbonate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the magnesium salt is magnesium oxide. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the magnesium salt is present in a content ranging from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the structuring mineral filler is chosen from: talc, kaolin and hectorite, said filler preferably being talc. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises zinc pidolate (Zn PCA), preferably in a content of at most 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition . Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid binder is present in a content ranging from 2 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the liquid binder is present in a content ranging from 7 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said at least one pearlite is present in a content of less than 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyamide powder is nylon or starch. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 20% by weight of aluminum salt(s), preferably less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 5% by weight, preferably the composition is totally free of aluminum salt(s). Cosmetic process for treating body odor resulting from perspiration and/or for managing the sensation of humidity, comprising the application of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims to the skin.