FR3111546A1 - Composition comprising a polyol, an ester of polyglycerol, a salt of hyaluronic acid and a specific hydrophilic polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

C omposition comprising a polyol, a polyglycerol ester, a salt of hyaluronic acid and a specific hydrophilic polymer The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium: at least one polyol, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts, between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units , between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer chosen from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and optionally at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose. Figure for abstract: None

Description

Composition comprising a polyol, a polyglycerol ester, a salt of hyaluronic acid and a specific hydrophilic polymer

The present invention relates to a composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising a polyol, a polyglycerol ester, a salt of hyaluronic acid and a specific hydrophilic polymer, and optionally comprising a polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.

The skin is a tissue whose cells are contiguous, and solidary with each other. The skin tissue forms an outer covering comprising sebaceous or sweat glands, and hair follicles. The skin, and in particular the scalp, are epithelia with continual renewal. Renewal, or desquamation, is a coordinated and finely regulated process resulting in the elimination of superficial cells, in a imperceptible and invisible way.

Human skin consists of two compartments, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis.

The epidermis is conventionally divided into a basal layer of keratinocytes constituting the germinative layer of the epidermis, a so-called spiny layer consisting of several layers of polyhedral cells arranged on the germinative layers, one to three so-called granular layers consisting of flattened cells containing distinct cytoplasmic inclusions, the grains of keratohyaline and finally, a set of upper layers called stratum corneum (or stratum corneum ), made up of keratinocytes at the terminal stage of their differentiation called corneocytes.

Corneocytes are anucleate cells mainly made up of a fibrous material containing cytokeratins, surrounded by a horny envelope. There is a permanent production of new keratinocytes to compensate for the continuous loss of epidermal cells at the level of the stratum corneum according to a mechanism called desquamation.

However, an imbalance between the production of cells at the level of the basal layer and the rate of desquamation can in particular lead to the formation of scales on the surface of the skin. Similarly, a lack of terminal differentiation of cells in the stratum corneum , for various reasons, can lead to the formation of large, thick clusters of cells, visible to the naked eye, and called "squames", or in d other situations, to a thinning of the stratum corneum . This can lead to a fragility of the barrier properties of the epidermis, to chronic dehydration of the stratum corneum, a loss of mechanical elasticity, tightness, as well as a lack of radiance and transparency of the skin. By way of example of factors favoring this deterioration in the surface quality of the skin, mention may be made of stress, the winter period, excess sebum, lack of hydration; this may also be the case for the dry skin of elderly subjects.

Thus, a fragility of the skin barrier can occur in the presence of external aggressions such as irritating agents (detergents, acids, bases, oxidants, reducers, concentrated solvents, harmful gases or fumes), mechanical stresses (friction, shocks, abrasion, tearing of the surface, projection of dust, particles, shaving or depilation), thermal or climatic imbalances (cold, dryness, radiation), xenobiotics (undesirable micro-organisms, allergens) or internal attacks of the psychological stress type.

One of the critical steps in the stratum corneum terminal differentiation process is the cross-linking of protein precursors to the corneal envelope. This phenomenon plays an essential role in the development and maintenance of cutaneous cohesion and the physical properties of the skin such as the barrier function.

The horny envelope is an essential component of corneocytes.

The maturation of the corneal envelope from the deep layers to the superficial layers of the stratum corneum can be characterized by morphological and biophysical or mechanical parameters.

The hydrating active agents conventionally used, such as humectants, hydrating polymers or fatty substances such as petroleum jelly, temporarily modify the surface properties of the skin. These active ingredients can lead to a mechanical softening of the stratum corneum, an increase in its state of hydration and/or an improvement in the microrelief of the skin by the formation of a film on the surface of the skin. Generally, these effects are not persistent over time and only last a few hours. In addition, after cleaning the skin, these active ingredients are eliminated and the mechanical softening effect of the skin, the improvement in the texture of the skin or its optical properties disappear.

Furthermore, the use of film formers on the skin, in particular the use of humectant polysaccharides such as carrageenan, often leads to a "tensor" effect of the skin, an increase in the elastic modulus of the skin; this surface stiffening leads to skin discomfort.

Compositions comprising an aqueous gel based on sodium hyaluronate and a polymer comprising 2-acrylamido 2-methylpropane sulphonic acid units are also known.

There is a need for compositions that improve the state of hydration of the skin, in particular dry or aged skin, by avoiding tightness and feelings of discomfort when they are applied to the skin.

There is also a need for compositions which give the skin a plumping effect and/or a plump appearance. By “plumped appearance”, we mean a remodeling effect on the skin. The skin is smoother and has a fuller appearance, which is maintained even after pressure on the skin with the finger.

There is in particular a need for compositions comprising a gel based on sodium hyaluronate and on a polymer comprising 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid units which give the skin improved mechanical properties, in particular which give the skin a plumping effect and/or a plump appearance, while being stable.

The inventors have now discovered that the combination of a polyol and a specific polyglycerol ester, in an aqueous composition comprising hyaluronic acid or one of its salts and a specific hydrophilic polymer, makes it possible to obtain a stable composition that satisfactorily softens the skin and gives it a plumping effect and a plump appearance.

In particular, the combination of a polyol and a specific polyglycerol ester, in a gel-type composition comprising hyaluronic acid or one of its salts and a polymer comprising 2-acrylamido 2- sulfonic methyl propane, makes it possible to obtain a stable gel which improves the mechanical properties of the skin, while maintaining good cosmetic properties.

Thus, the subject of the present invention is a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:

at least one polyol,

hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts,

between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total composition weight of at least one ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units,

between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer chosen from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonic acid or one of its salts , And

optionally at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.

The composition according to the invention is preferably cosmetic.

By “physiologically acceptable”, is meant a medium compatible with keratin materials.

A subject of the present invention is also a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

A subject of the present invention is also the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for softening the skin, in particular the stratum corneum.

AMPS® polymer (poly (2-acrylami acid) do 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid) ; AMPS® monomer of Lubrizol )

The composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer chosen from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or one of its salts.

They are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable polymers.

Preferably, the AMPS® polymers (lubrizol monomer) used in accordance with the invention can be partially or completely neutralized by a mineral base (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, or mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized. In the present invention, the term "neutralized" is intended to designate polymers which have been completely or almost completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%.

The AMPS® polymers (Lubrizol monomer) used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and even more. preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g/mol.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking polymers obtained by radical polymerization. As crosslinking agents, mention may be made, for example, of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ether, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, tetraethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl(meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols as well as allyl esters of derivatives phosphoric acid and/or vinyl phosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylol propane triacrylate (TMPTA).

The degree of crosslinking generally varies from 0.01 to 10% by mole, and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mole, relative to the polymer.

The more particularly preferred AMPS® homopolymers comprise, randomly distributed, units of the following general formula (I):

in which X ⁺ denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline-earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10% mol of the X ⁺ cations possibly being H ⁺ protons;

and crosslinking units originating from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds.

The homopolymers used according to the invention and more particularly preferred comprise from 90 to 99.9% by weight and preferably from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (I), and from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units, the proportions by weight being defined relative to the total weight of the polymer.

As homopolymer of this type, mention may in particular be made of the crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, marketed by the company Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS® (INCI name: Ammonium Polyacryldimethyltauramide).

Preferably, the AMPS® polymer according to the invention is present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.05 to 0.15% by weight, more preferably from 0.08 to 0.12% by weight relative to the total weight. of composition.

Hyaluronic acid or one of its salts

The composition according to the invention also comprises hyaluronic acid, and/or one of its salts.

Hyaluronic acid is a non-sulfated linear glycosaminoglycan composed of repeating units of D-glucuronic acid and N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

According to the invention, the hyaluronic acid preferably has a number-average molecular weight ranging from 500 Da to 10 MDa, and more particularly ranging from 2 KDa to 2 MDa.

As hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may in particular be made of hyaluronic acids of animal origin, of origin or reticulated, such as those sold under the name Hylaform® by the company Genzyme, or hyaluronic acids of genetic origin. including those intended for superficial, periorbital or perioral wrinkles, such as those sold under the name Restylane Fine Lines® by the Q-Med Laboratory, or intended for deep wrinkles, labiomental and oval depressions of the face, such as those sold under the names Perlane® and Restylane Sub-Q® by Q-Med Laboratory. Preferably, as hyaluronic acid suitable for the present invention, mention may be made of those sold under the name Restylane® by the Q-Med Laboratory and under the name Surgiderm® by the Cornéal Laboratory.

Mention may also be made of the low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (50 kDa) offered by Evonik under the name Hyacare 50®.

Among the hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of sodium salts, potassium salts, zinc salts, silver salts, and mixtures thereof. More particularly, as hyaluronic acid salts, mention may be made of potassium hyaluronate and sodium hyaluronate, preferably sodium hyaluronate. Can also be considered in the context of the invention, sodium hyaluronate with a molecular weight of 1,100,000 Daltons marketed by the company Soliance under the name Cristalhyal®

Preferably, the hyaluronic acid of the composition according to the invention is present in a salified form, preferentially in the form of sodium hyaluronate.

Preferably, hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1% to 1% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.2% to 0.5% by weight.

Ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising 5 to 9 glycerol units

The composition according to the invention also comprises between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units.

The fatty acid and polyglycerol ester is formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 10 to 18 carbon atoms and from 5 to 9 glycerol units, preferably from 5 to 6 glycerol units .

According to one embodiment, the polyglycerol ester according to the invention results from the esterification of at least one fatty acid, saturated or unsaturated, and of a polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units.

Preferably, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is a mono- or diester, preferably a mono-ester.

The term "polyglycerol" denotes glyceryl polymers which are linear sequences of 5 to 9, preferably 5 to 6 glycerol units.

The esters more particularly considered according to the present invention are esters resulting from the esterification of polyglycerol and C10-C18 carboxylic acid(s), preferably C12 to C16, preferably C12, such as lauric, oleic, stearic, isostearic, or myristic acids.

The carboxylic acid can be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, it is a linear monocarboxylic acid.

In general, they derive from the esterification of at least one hydroxyl function of a polyglycerol with a C10-C18 carboxylic acid, preferably C12 to C16, and more particularly C12.

According to a particular embodiment, the esters suitable for the present invention can derive from the esterification of a polyglycerol with one or more carboxylic acids, which are identical or different. It may be a hydroxylated mono-ester, a hydroxylated di-ester, a hydroxylated tri-ester, or a mixture thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units, mono polyglyceryl (iso)stearate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 5 to 9 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester is chosen from polyglyceryl monolaurate comprising from 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monooleate comprising from 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl mono(iso)stearate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl dioleate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol units, polyglyceryl monomyristate comprising 5 to 6 glycerol units, and mixtures thereof.

In another preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyglycerol fatty acid ester has an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) value of 10 to 13.

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a polyglycerol fatty acid ester which is a polyglyceryl monolaurate with 5 to 6 glycerol units, i.e. polyglyceryl-5 laurate or polyglyceryl-6 laurate.

A commercial product based mainly on polyglyceryl-5 laurate or PG-5 laurate is available under the trade name SUNSOFT A-121E-C® by the company Taiyo Kagaku.

A commercial product based mainly on polyglyceryl-6 laurate or PG-6 laurate is available under the trade name DERMOFEEL G 6 L by the company Dr Straetmans.

The fatty acid polyglycerol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 2.1% to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2. 5% to 5.5% by weight, and preferentially ranging from 3% to 5.5% by weight, preferentially from 3.5% to 5% by weight.

In particular, the weight ratio between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or one of its salts, and the ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units is less than 0.04 (and of course not zero). Preferably, it is between 0.01 and 0.035, preferably between 0.015 and 0.03.

Polyol

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one polyol.

By polyol according to the invention, is meant a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 2 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 50 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. carbon, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and bearing at least two hydroxy groups. The polyols used in the present invention may have a weight-average molecular mass of less than or equal to 1000, preferably between 90 and 500.

The polyol can be a natural or synthetic polyol. The polyol can have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyol can be selected from glycerin and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof. The polyol can be selected from the group consisting of glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol , 1,5-pentanediol, octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly the polyol is glycerine.

Said polyol(s) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 20% by weight. weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises, in addition to the polyol, a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium.

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium comprising water and optionally an organic solvent soluble in water, at 25° C., chosen for example from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol, propanol, butanol and mixtures thereof.

The composition generally comprises from 10 to 95% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 40 to 90%.

The amount of organic solvent(s) can range, for example, from 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, better still from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention also comprises an oily phase. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an oil-in-water emulsion.

Surfactants

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises, as surfactant, at least one ester of fatty acid and of polyethylene glycol.

The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid ester comprising from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the esters can be chosen in particular from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl, cetyl units and mixtures thereof, such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain.

The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to 40.

As an example of a fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of the mixture of monoester and diester of methylglucose and stearic acid comprising 20 units of ethylene oxide, such as the product marketed under the name Glucamate SSE-20 by Amerchol.

The fatty acid and polyethylene glycol ester may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 1% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight.

Oil phase

The composition according to the invention preferably also comprises at least one oily phase. When the composition used according to the invention comprises an oily phase, the latter preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a cosmetic oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.

By “oil” is meant a non-aqueous compound, liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure (1.013×10 ⁵ Pa), immiscible with water.

By "immiscible", it is meant that the mixture of the same quantity of water and oil, after stirring, does not lead to a stable solution comprising only a single phase, under the aforementioned temperature and pressure conditions. . The observation is made by eye or by means of a phase contrast microscope if necessary, on 100g of mixture obtained after Rayneri agitation sufficient to cause a vortex to appear within the mixture (as an indication 200 to 1000 rev /min); the resulting mixture being left to stand, in a closed flask, for 24 hours at room temperature before observation.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example:

- hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene;

- hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean oils, pumpkin, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil;

- synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R1COOR2 and R1OR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a fatty acid comprising from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or not, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, Purcellin's oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl stearate -2-dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;

- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, branched chain hydrocarbon oils containing 10 to 20 carbon atoms such as isohexadecane, isododecane, isoparaffins and mixtures thereof, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as, for example, Parléam® marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS, PANALANE H-300 E marketed by the company AMOCO, VISEAL 20000 marketed by SYNTEAL, REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed by WITCO, or else PARLEAM LITE marketed by NOF Corporation;

- partially hydrocarbon and/or silicone fluorinated oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912;

- silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; Or

- their mixtures.

As indicated above, the composition according to the invention may comprise, in the oily phase, other fatty substance(s). Preferably, this fatty substance is chosen from fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, the mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

The amount of oily phase can range, for example, from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.8 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition .

Polysaccharide including rhamnose

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose.

Preferably, the polysaccharide according to the invention comprises a rhamnose content ranging from 10% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the polysaccharide, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 40% to 60% in weight.

Preferably, the polysaccharide according to the invention is not sulphated. By “unsulphated”, is meant that the degree of sulphation of the polysaccharide is less than 0.5% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight relative to the weight of the polysaccharide. Preferably, the sulfation rate is zero.

Thus, preferably, the polysaccharide according to the invention is such that the repetitive elements which constitute it mainly contain rhamnose. Preferably, the repeating elements comprise at least the components of general formula I:

wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, Rh* is a branched rhamnose molecule, O is a hexoside or pentoside sugar molecule, U is a uronic acid molecule and n is between 1 and 100, preferably between 5 and 65.

By “repetitive elements containing mainly rhamnose”, is meant a branched sequence comprising at least 50% of rhamnose of the D and/or L series, as well as its α and/or β isomers.

The sugar O can in particular be chosen from fucose, galactose, ribose, arabinose, xylose and mannose.

By uronic acid U is meant any hexose oxidized on its primary alcohol function to carboxylic acid, in particular glucuronic acid, galacturonic acid, mannuronic acid or iduronic acid.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the branched rhamnose molecule can be fixed by an osidic bond from its carbon 1 to a free carbon of one of the molecules of sugar O or of uronic acid U or of rhamnose Rh of the saccharide chain, especially on carbons 2 or 3.

According to another particular embodiment, the repetitive elements may in particular consist of the sequence of general formula II:

in which Rh is a molecule of rhamnose, O is a molecule of a hexoside or pentoside sugar, U is a molecule of uronic acid and the ramification of the rhamnose on the ose O is done according to an osidic bond (1→2) or (1→3).

According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the sugar O is galactose and the uronic acid U is glucuronic acid. Preferably, the sequence has a sequence containing 3 molecules of rhamnose, one of which is branched, 2 molecules of galactose and one molecule of glucuronic acid. According to formula II, n represents a value such that this polysaccharide has a molecular weight of the order of 50,000 daltons. It can be obtained from cultures of bacteria of the Klebsiella type, in particular Klebsiella pneumoniae and in particular the I-714 strain (deposited at the CNCM - National Collection of Microorganism Culture - under number I-714) according to a process described below. . Advantageously, this polysaccharide has the rhamnose branching on the galactose in position V. It emerges that this polysaccharide is more particularly made up of the following repeating unit: →4)- α-L-Rhap(1→3)- β-D- Galp(1→2)- α-L-Rhap(1→4)- β-D-GlcpA(1→3)- [α-L-Rhap(1→2)]- α-D-Galp(1→ .

The hydrolysis of this polysaccharide also makes it possible to obtain a mixture of fractions of lower molecular weight, in particular the major fractions of 5,000 daltons and 13,000 daltons, which may be purified and which are particularly advantageous according to the invention.

According to another particular embodiment, the repetitive elements may in particular consist of the sequence of general formula III:

in which Rh is a molecule of rhamnose, O is a molecule of a hexoside or pentoside sugar, U is a molecule of uronic acid and the ramification of the rhamnose on the rhamnose is done according to an osidic bond (1→3). According to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the sugar O is glucose and the uronic acid U is glucuronic acid, preferably according to a sequence containing 3 molecules of rhamnose, one of which is branched, a molecule of glucose and a molecule of acid glucuronic. Such a polysaccharide can in particular be obtained according to the method described below from a culture of bacteria of the Klebsiella planticola type, in particular strain I-2743 (deposited at the CNCM under number I-2743). Advantageously, such a polysaccharide has the rhamnose branching on the rhamnose in position III. It appears that this polysaccharide is more particularly made up of the following repeating unit: →3)- β-L- Rhap(1→4)- β-D-Glcp(1→2)- [α-L- Rhap(1 →3)]-α-L-Rhap(1→4)-α-D-GlcpA(1→.

The hydrolysis of this polysaccharide also makes it possible to obtain a mixture of fractions of lower molecular weight, in particular the majority fraction of 5,000 daltons, which may be purified and which is particularly advantageous according to the invention.

In general, the polysaccharides according to the invention can be of bacterial or plant origin. They can be obtained by conventional techniques for the production of polysaccharides (chemical synthesis, enzymatic extraction of exopolysaccharides). According to an advantageous embodiment, the polysaccharides are exopolysaccharides obtained by fermentation of a bacterial strain by producing, of the encapsulated bacteria type, according to a production process such as that detailed in patent FR264522. This method is defined in that a strain of bacteria of the Klebsiella type is cultured in a nutrient medium comprising a carbon source, a preferential nitrogen source and appropriate mineral salts, at a pH of approximately 6 to 8. , at a temperature of about 30 to 35°C, with stirring and aeration, for 4 to 12 days. The carbon/nitrogen ratio is advantageously greater than 5 in order to promote the secretion of the polysaccharide. The polysaccharide can then be isolated by subjecting the fermentation medium to a heat treatment at approximately 70-120° C., for 10 minutes to approximately 1 hour, then by separating it, for example by cold centrifuging it. Exopolysaccharides and cellular polysaccharides are found entirely in the clear supernatant phase. If necessary, the polysaccharides can be purified by precipitation by addition of a non-solvent organic liquid such as acetone or a lower alcohol such as ethanol or propanol, and separated by filtration or centrifugation before being dried.

The isolated polysaccharides can thus easily be incorporated into a composition, as such or in hydrolyzed form. In this case, the hydrolysis can be carried out before drying by known methods such as acid hydrolysis. It can be carried out using a commonly used proton donor, such as hydrochloric acid, at a temperature ranging from 50 to 100° C. and for 30 minutes to 4 hours, depending on the desired size of the fractions. The oligosaccharide fractions thus obtained can be recovered and purified if necessary according to conventional methods.

This protocol can be carried out using bacterial strains producing rhamnose-rich exopolysaccharides, in particular encapsulated bacteria. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a strain of Klebsiella bacteria is used, preferably Klebsiella pneumoniae or Klebsiella planticola .

Preferably, the repeating unit of the polysaccharide (exopolysaccharide) according to the invention is that produced by Klebsiella pneumoniae I-714 and called Rhamnosoft®:

The composition of Rhamnosoft® corresponds to a polymer with a branched structure, with a molecular weight of the order of 50,000 daltons, and having a saccharide sequence comprising three molecules of rhamnose (I, III, VI), two molecules of galactose (II, V) and a molecule of glucuronic acid (IV). Rhamnose therefore constitutes 50% of the polysaccharide. The polysaccharide has a rhamnose VI branch on the galactose in the V position.

The structure of the repeating unit is in this case:

→4)- α-L-Rhap(1→3)- β-D-Galp(1→2)- α-L-Rhap(1→4)- β-D-GlcpA(1→3)- [α -L-Rhap(1→2)]-α-D-Galp(1→.

It corresponds to the following detailed formula:

Preferably, the polysaccharide according to the invention is used in aqueous solution at 2.5% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of solution. Such a polysaccharide is marketed in particular under the name Rhamnosoft® HP 1.5P by Solabia.

Preferably, the polysaccharide may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active ingredient content ranging from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 0.5% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1% to 0.3% by weight.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as in particular fillers, preservatives, UV filters, coloring materials, and/or active agents.

As UV filter, mention may be made of organic or inorganic UV filters, well known to those skilled in the art.

As dyestuff, mention may be made of dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes, pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres, and flakes well known to those skilled in the art.

Among the preferred active agents, mention may in particular be made of retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives including its esters such as retinyl palmitate, vitamin C, C-glycoside derivatives and active agents for caring for greasy skin.

The C-glycoside derivatives can be chosen from the compounds of the following general formula:

in which :

• R denotes an unsubstituted linear C ₁ -C ₄ , in particular C ₁ -C ₂ , in particular methyl radical;
• S represents a monosaccharide chosen from D-glucose, D-xylose, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine or L-fucose, and in particular D-xylose;
• X represents a group chosen from -CO-, -CH(OH)-, -CH(NH ₂ )-, and preferably a -CH(OH)- group;

as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

By way of non-limiting illustration of the C-glycoside derivatives more particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following derivatives:

• C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
• C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-n-propane-2-one;
• C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
• C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane;
• 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
• 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxy-propane;
• 1-(C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
• 1-(C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
• 3'-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-propane-2'-one;
• 3'-(acetamido-C-alpha-D-glucopyranosyl)-propan-2'-one;
• 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-hydroxyl-propane;
• 1-(acetamido-C-beta-D-glucopyranosyl)-2-amino-propane;
• as well as their cosmetically acceptable salts, their solvates such as hydrates and their optical isomers.

According to a particular embodiment, C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane or C-alpha-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, and better still C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2- hydroxypropane, can advantageously be used for the preparation of a composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment, a C-glycoside derivative suitable for the invention can advantageously be hydroxypropyl-tetrahydropyrantriol, also called C-beta-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxy-propane, in particular offered in solution at 30% by weight in a water/propylene glycol mixture (60/40) under the name MEXORYL SBB® by CHIMEX. The salts of the C-glycoside derivatives suitable for the invention can comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydriodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of the salts of organic acids, which may contain one or more carboxylic, sulphonic or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or alternatively aromatic acids. These acids may additionally comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. Mention may in particular be made of propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Acceptable solvates for the compounds described above include conventional solvates such as those formed during the last stage of preparation of said compounds due to the presence of solvents. By way of example, mention may be made of the solvates due to the presence of water or of linear or branched alcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol. A C-glycoside derivative suitable for the invention can in particular be obtained by the synthesis method described in document WO02/051828.

Among the active ingredients for caring for oily skin, mention may preferably be made of those chosen in particular from desquamating and/or antimicrobial agents.

By "desquamating agent" is meant any compound capable of acting:

- either directly on the desquamation by promoting exfoliation, such as I3-hydroxy acids; gentisic acid; oligofucoses; cinnamic acid; the extract of Saphora japonica; resveratrol and certain jasmonic acid derivatives;

- or on the enzymes involved in the desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, glycosidases, the stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE) or even other proteases (trypsin, chymotrypsin-like). Mention may be made of aminosulfonic compounds and in particular (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane)sulfonic acid (HEPES); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid derivatives (procysteine); derivatives of alpha amino acids of glycine type (as described in EP-0 852 949, as well as sodium methyl glycine diacetate marketed by BASF under the trade name TRILON M); honey ; sugar derivatives such as O-octanoy1-6-D-maltose and N-acetyl glucosamine.

The antimicrobial agents capable of being used in the composition according to the invention are preferably chosen from 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy diphenyl ether (or triclosan), 3,4,4'- trichlorobanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole , butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopiroxe, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, benzoyl peroxide, 3-hydroxy benzoic acid, 4-hydroxy acid benzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine acid, lipoic acid, azelaic acid and its salts, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2 '-hydroxy diphenyl ether, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octopirox, octoxyglycerin, octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenyl imidazol dioxolan and its derivatives described in patent WO9318743, copper pidolate, salicylic acid, zinc salicylate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, farnesol, phytosphingosines and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention can be contained directly in a container, or indirectly. By way of example, the composition can be placed on any suitable support. In particular, this support is capable of absorbing the composition (impregnated support), such as for example a wipe; a fibrous, woven or non-woven make-up remover disc; felt ; wadding; a flocked film; or a sponge.

Preparation and properties

The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be prepared by mixing the above essential and optional components according to a conventional method.

Finally, the invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to the invention.

It also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for softening the skin, in particular the stratum corneum.

The softening effect of the skin gives the latter in particular a plumping effect and/or a plump appearance. The skin is smoother and has a fuller appearance, which is maintained even after pressure on the skin with the finger. This makes it possible to obtain surface effects, in particular on the cutaneous microreliefs, in particular to smooth wrinkles and fine lines; and/or moisturize the skin.

Concrete, but in no way limiting, examples illustrating the invention will now be given.

In the examples, the pressure is atmospheric pressure, unless otherwise indicated.

In the examples, the amounts of the ingredients of the compositions are given in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Examples

In all the examples, the compositions are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the tables below, according to the following protocol:

The ingredients of phase A1 are mixed and heated to 80°C; then the ingredients of phase A2 are added, to obtain phase A.

The ingredients of phase B are mixed then added to phase A at room temperature (20°C)

The pH is adjusted with phase C.

The ingredients of phase D are added to the mixture obtained.

Oil E, then F (active) then G (alcohol) then H are added to the mixture.

Furthermore, in the examples, the stability over time of the compositions was evaluated at different temperatures. The stability is studied over time by observing the evolution of the composition with regard to its macroscopic appearance, its microscopic appearance, the evolution of the values of viscosity and pH, at different temperatures such as room temperature (RT) , 4°C, 45°C. A composition is stable if it does not change its appearance on observation after at least 24 hours.

The instability of the compositions not in accordance with the invention is manifested in particular by a creaming phenomenon, that is to say a phase separation. It is observable macroscopically with the naked eye, by a phenomenon of phase separation revealing a translucent pellet (formula aged in a 30mL glass sample bottle or a phase separation (2 immiscible transparent phases).

In addition, when the compositions are analyzed in vivo with the Torquemeter ^® , the protocol is as follows:

The Torquemeter ^ (DTM) is a non-invasive device. The DTM's measuring head is made up of a movable central disc 20 mm in diameter and a fixed circular plate. This device is affixed to the skin via a fixed concentric double-sided adhesive tape. The angle of rotation of the central disk is measured by an angular sensor with very high resolution. When applying the measuring head, the central disc rotates. A torsional stress of an angle Ue is then applied to the skin zone comprised between the mobile central disc and the peripheral fixed ring (rapid deformation). Then the angle of rotation continues to increase at reduced speed by an angle Uv.

After stopping the torque, the skin returns to its initial state in two stages, fast (Ur deformation) and slow to the origin.

The precise measurement areas are marked using a circular mask. The measured parameters are (Ue, Uv, Ur). Ue represents skin extensibility, Uv represents delayed skin extensibility and Ur represents skin tone. For bare skin (without composition), the delta Ue and delta Ur values are as follows (the time in brackets indicates the duration between the two measurements):

Delta Ue (1 h) = 0.10,

Delta Ue (6 h) = 0.06,

Delta Ur (1h) = 0.01,

Delta Ur (6h) = -0.02.

Example 1: Preparation of a comparative reference composition

The comparative reference composition is prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the protocol described above.

Phase Ingredient Reference composition ( Cref )
(% w/w)
(comparative) A1 GLYCERIN 5 A1 WATER 20 A1 Asset 0.005 F Assets 3.1 D Ammonium acid 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymer
(INCI: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE)
(Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) 0.25 A1 OCTYLDODECANOL 0.5 A1 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 0.1 A2 Sequestrant 0.1 D XANTHAN GUM 0.1 B WATER Qsp 100 F floral extract 0.01 VS Base 0.0345 D SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.45 A2 Conservatives Q's G ETHANOL 5 E Silicone 1 VS Bifidobacterium extract 10 G SCENT Q's G Hydrogenated and ethoxylated castor oil (INCI: PEG-60 HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL) 0.0165 Stability Steady DTM (approximate values) 1h Delta EU 0.27 ± 0.12 DTM (approximate values) 6h Delta EU 0.22 ± 0.07 DTM (approximate values) 1h Delta Ur 0.25 ± 0.07 DTM (approximate values) 6h Delta Ur 0.12 ± 0.06 Ratio Delta Ur/Delta EU 1h 0.06 ± 0.04 Ratio Delta Ur/Delta Eu 6h 0.01 ± 0.03

Example 2 : Preparation of compositions according to the invention (C1 To VS 4 )

The following compositions C1 to C4 are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the protocol described above.

Phase Ingredient VS 1
(invention) VS 2
(invention) VS 3 (invention) VS 4 (invention) A1 GLYCERIN 10 5 10 10 A1 Asset 0.005 0.005 0.005 0.005 F Assets 3.1 3.1 3.1 3.1 D Ammonium acid 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymer (INCI: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE)
(Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 A1 OCTYLDODECANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 A1 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 A2 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 D XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 B POLYSACCHARIDE
(INCI: BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2)
(Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P from Solabia; 2.5% active ingredient) - 5 5 5 A1 WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 F floral extract 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 VS Base 0.0345 0.0345 0.0345 0.0345 H POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE
(SUNSOFT A-121E-C® by Taiyo Kagaku) 5 5 5 3.5 D SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.45 0.45 0.45 0.45 A2 Conservatives Q's Q's Q's Q's G ETHANOL 5 5 5 5 E Silicone 1 1 1 1 VS Bifidobacterium extract 10 10 10 10 Stability Steady Steady Steady Steady DTM (approximate values) 1h Delta EU 0.68 ± 0.21 0.336 ± 0.089 0.663 ± 0.126 0.558 ± 0.136 DTM (approximate values) 6h Delta EU 0.56 ± 0.16 0.252 ± 0.063 0.53 ± 0.128 0.450 ± 0.134 DTM (approximate values) 1h Delta Ur 1.08 ± 0.37 0.483 ± 0.113 0.733 ± 0.15 0.631 ±0.135 DTM (approximate values) 6h Delta Ur 0.66 ± 0.29 0.314 ± 0.075 0.451 ± 0.078 0.407 ± 0.082 Ratio Delta Ur/Delta EU 1h 0.30 ± 0.09 0.135 ± 0.035 0.17 ± 0.045 0.151 ± 0.034 Ratio Delta Ur/Delta Eu 6h 0.17 ± 0.08 0.091 ± 0.031 0.091 ± 0.025 0.090 ± 0.023

The weight ratios between the 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units, for each composition C1 to C4, are respectively equal to 0.02, 0.02, 0.02 and 0.029.

Compositions C1 to C4 significantly improve skin extensibility (Ue), tonicity (Ur) and elasticity (Ur/Ue) of the skin compared to bare skin, 1 hour and 6 hours after application of each composition.

The compositions C1 to C4 according to the invention also improve the cutaneous extensibility (Ue), the tonicity (Ur) and the elasticity (Ur/Ue) of the skin compared to skin treated with the reference composition, in particular compositions C1 and C3.

Example 3: I influence of the mass ratio in AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE

Composition C3 is taken from the previous table. The following comparative compositions C5 and C6 are prepared with the ingredients mentioned in the table below, according to the protocol described above.

Phase Ingredient VS 3
(invention) VS 5 * (comparative) VS 6 * (comparative) A1 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 A1 Asset 0.005 0.005 0.005 F Assets 3.1 3.1 3.1 D Ammonium acid 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymer (INCI: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE)
(Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) 0.1 0.25 - A1 OCTYLDODECANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 A1 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 A2 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 D XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 B POLYSACCHARIDE (INCI: BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2)
(Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P from Solabia; 2.5% active ingredient) 5 5 5 A1 WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 F floral extract 0.01 0.01 0.01 VS Base 0.0345 0.0345 0.0345 H POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE
(SUNSOFT A-121E-C® by Taiyo Kagaku) 5 5 5 D SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.45 0.45 0.45 A2 Conservatives Q's Q's Q's G ETHANOL 5 5 5 E Silicone 1 1 1 VS Bifidobacterium extract 10 -
10 Stability Steady Unstable at one month (creaming) Unstable (phase shift)

The weight ratios between the 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units, for each composition C3, C5 and C6, are respectively equal to 0.02, 0.05 and 0.

Composition C3 according to the invention is stable, unlike comparative compositions C5 and C6.

Example 4: Influence of the mass ratio in POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE

Phase Ingredient VS 3 (invention) VS 4 (invention) VS 7 * (comparative) A1 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 A1 Asset 0.005 0.005 0.005 F Assets 3.1 3.1 3.1 D Ammonium acid 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymer (INCI: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE)
(Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) 0.1 0.1 0.1 A1 OCTYLDODECANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 A1 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 A2 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 D XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 B POLYSACCHARIDE (INCI: BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2)
(Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P from Solabia; 2.5% active ingredient) 5 5 5 A1 WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 F floral extract 0.01 0.01 0.01 VS Base 0.0345 0.0345 0.0345 H POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE
(SUNSOFT A-121E-C® by Taiyo Kagaku) 5 3.5 2 D SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.45 0.45 0.45 A2 Conservatives Q's Q's Q's G ETHANOL 5 5 5 E Silicone 1 1 1 VS Bifidobacterium extract 10 10 10 Stability Steady Steady Unstable (creaming)

The weight ratios between the 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units, for each composition C3, C4 and C7, are respectively equal to 0.02, 0.029 and 0.05.

The compositions C3 and C4 according to the invention are stable, unlike the comparative composition C7.

Example 5: Influence of the nature of the aqueous polymer

Phase Ingredient VS 3 (invention) VS 8 * (comparative) VS 9 * (comparative) A1 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 A1 Asset 0.005 0.005 0.005 F Assets 3.1 3.1 3.1 D Ammonium acid 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymer (INCI: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE)
(Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) 0.1 D AMPS/STEARYL ETHOXYL METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (25 EO) CROSS-LINKED BY TRIMETHYLOLPROPANE TRIACRYLATE (INCI: AMMONIUMACRYLOYLDIMETHYLTAURATE/STEARETH-25 METHACRYLATE CROSSPOLYMER)
(Aristoflex HMS from Clariant) 0.3 E1 ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER (20 EO) (INCI: ACRYLATES/STEARETH-20 METHACRYLATE COPOLYMER)
(Aculyn® from Dow; 30% active ingredient) 2
( 0.6 % in active matter)
A1 OCTYLDODECANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 A1 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 A2 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 D XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 B POLYSACCHARIDE (INCI: BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2)
(Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P from Solabia; 2.5% active ingredient) 5 5 5 A1 WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 F floral extract 0.01 0.01 0.01 VS Base 0.0345 0.0345 Q's H POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE
(SUNSOFT A-121E-C® by Taiyo Kagaku) 5 5 5 D SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.45 0.45 0.45 A2 Conservatives Q's Q's Q's G ETHANOL 5 5 5 E Silicone 1 1 1 VS Bifidobacterium extract 10 10 10 Stability Steady Unstable Unstable

The weight ratios between the 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer and the fatty acid and polyglycerol ester comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units, for each composition C3, C8 and C9, are respectively equal to 0.02, 0 and 0.

Composition C3 according to the invention is stable, unlike comparative compositions C8 and C9.

Example 6: Other comparative compositions

Phase Ingredient VS 3 (invention) VS 10 * (comparative) C1 1 * (comparative) A1 GLYCERIN 10 10 10 A1 Asset 0.005 0.005 0.005 F Assets 3.1 3.1 3.1 D Ammonium acid 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonate polymer (INCI: AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE)
(Hostacerin AMPS® from Clariant) 0.1 - - A1 OCTYLDODECANOL 0.5 0.5 0.5 A1 PEG-20 METHYL GLUCOSE SESQUISTEARATE 0.1 0.1 0.1 A2 Sequestrant 0.1 0.1 0.1 D XANTHAN GUM 0.1 0.1 0.1 B POLYSACCHARIDE (INCI: BIOSACCHARIDE GUM-2)
(Rhamnosoft HP 1.5P from Solabia; 2.5% active ingredient) 5 5 5 A1 WATER Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 F floral extract 0.01 0.01 0.01 VS Base 0.0345 0.0345 0.0345 H POLYGLYCERYL-5 LAURATE
(SUNSOFT A-121E-C® by Taiyo Kagaku) 5 - 1 D SODIUM HYALURONATE 0.45 0.45 0.45 A2 Conservatives Q's Q's Q's G ETHANOL 5 5 5 E Silicone 1 1 1 VS Bifidobacterium extract 10 10 10 Stability Steady Unstable Unstable

The weight ratios between the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid and the ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 units of glycerol, for each composition C3 and C11 are respectively equal to 0 0.02 and 0. For C10 the ratio is absent because the composition does not include either homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid or ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol.

Composition C3 according to the invention is stable, unlike comparative compositions C10 and C11.

Claims (16)

Composition, preferably cosmetic, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium:
at least one polyol,
hyaluronic acid and/or one of its salts,
between 2.1% and 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units,
between 0.01% and 0.2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one hydrophilic polymer chosen from homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonic acid or one of its salts , And
optionally, at least one polysaccharide comprising rhamnose. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hydrophilic polymer is a crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer of ammonium 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonate. Composition according to one of Claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the hydrophilic polymer is present in a content of between 0.05% and 0.15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 08 and 0.12% by weight. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units is formed from at least one acid comprising an alkyl or alkenyl chain containing from 10 with 18 carbon atoms and 5 to 9 glycerol units, preferably 5 to 6 glycerol units. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units is present in a content of between 2.5% and 5.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably between 3% and 5.5% by weight, advantageously between 3.5% and 5% by weight. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the polyol is chosen from glycerol and derivatives thereof, and glycols and derivatives thereof; preferably from glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol , octane 1,2-diol, polyethylene glycols, in particular having from 5 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, and sugars such as sorbitol, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polyol is present in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the hyaluronic acid is present in the form of sodium hyaluronate. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the weight ratio between the 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulphonic acid homopolymer or one of its salts, and the fatty acid ester and polyglycerol comprising from 5 to 9 glycerol units, is less than 0.04, preferably between 0.01 and 0.035, preferably between 0.015 and 0.03. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the polysaccharide comprises a rate of rhamnose ranging from 10% to 100% by weight relative to the total weight of the polysaccharide, preferably from 20% to 70% by weight, preferably from 40% to 60% by weight. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the repetitive elements which constitute the polysaccharide comprise at least the components of general formula I:

wherein Rh is a rhamnose molecule, Rh* is a branched rhamnose molecule, O is a hexoside or pentoside sugar molecule, U is a uronic acid molecule and n is between 1 and 100, preferably between 5 and 65. Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the repetitive elements which constitute the polysaccharide consist of the sequence of general formula II:

in which Rh is a molecule of rhamnose, O is a molecule of a hexoside or pentoside sugar, U is a molecule of uronic acid and the ramification of the rhamnose on the ose O is done according to an osidic bond (1→2) or (1→3). Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the repetitive elements which constitute the polysaccharide consist of the sequence of general formula III:

in which Rh is a molecule of rhamnose, O is a molecule of a hexoside or pentoside sugar, U is a molecule of uronic acid and the ramification of the rhamnose on the rhamnose is done according to an osidic bond (1→3). Composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the polysaccharide is a polymer of branched structure, of molecular weight of the order of 50,000 daltons, and having a saccharide sequence comprising three molecules of rhamnose (I, III , VI), two molecules of galactose (II, V) and one molecule of glucuronic acid (IV), said sequence having the following detailed formula:
. Cosmetic process for caring for keratin materials, preferably the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 14. Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of Claims 1 to 14 for softening the skin, in particular the stratum corneum.