FR3109886A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcareous red algae. - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcareous red algae. The invention relates to a cosmetic care and / or make-up composition, characterized in that it comprises at least one calcareous red alga, at least one bulking agent, and at least one fatty substance, and in that said composition is present in powder form and is free from at least one of the components chosen from: talc, mica, silica, titanium dioxide and their mixtures. The invention also relates to the use of a calcareous red algae as an agent promoting hydration or as a matifying agent for the skin.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising at least one calcareous red algae.

The invention relates to a cosmetic care and/or makeup composition comprising at least one calcareous red algae, at least one bulking agent, and at least one fatty substance, the said composition being in powder form and being free of at least one of the components chosen from: talc, mica, silica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof. The invention also relates to the use of at least one red algae as an agent promoting the hydration of the skin and/or as a mattifying agent for the skin. Finally, the invention relates to a process for caring for and/or making up the skin by applying a composition according to the invention.

The skin is an essential organ of protection against external aggressions, such as stress, pollution, UV radiation, temperature change. It plays an important role as a barrier, especially against dehydration. Certain pathological situations or unfavorable external conditions can cause an imbalance of cutaneous exchanges at the level of this barrier, inducing, among other things, a reduction in the hydration of the skin with consequences on the aesthetic appearance of the skin. It is therefore appreciable to have new moisturizing active agents for formulating cosmetic compositions.

In addition, it may be advantageous to reduce the shiny appearance of the skin, so as to promote a mattifying effect. Finally, many raw materials are subject to controversy, suspected of being irritating or even carcinogenic when used in cosmetic products, particularly in powder form, and it is appropriate to replace them, such is the case for example talc, mica, titanium dioxide and silica. In the field of cosmetic compositions in powder form, talc, a mineral powder used as a bulking agent in cosmetics, is inexpensive and gives a soft and silky feel to blushes, foundation powders or even eye shadows. However, recent studies alert users to the risks associated with the daily use of talc, particularly following cases of ovarian cancer. Mica, another mineral, also imparts a soft, silky feel to cosmetic products in which it is used as a white colorant or opacifying agent. However, extraction mines are quite rare and synthetic mica has less good properties. Titanium dioxide is widely used in cosmetics as a white colorant, opacifying agent or even UV filter. However, the European Commission has recently decided to add titanium dioxide to the list of category 2 carcinogens by inhalation for mixtures in powder form containing 1% or more of titanium dioxide particles. Silica is known as an abrasive, absorbent, anti-caking agent but can be harmful to the respiratory tract.

In this context, it is therefore necessary to identify raw materials capable of offering a satisfactory alternative to these controversial materials, which can be used in cosmetic compositions in powder form, and which have interesting sensory properties such as in particular a moisturizing and/or mattifying effect.

Raw materials of marine origin are of great interest in the field of cosmetics or agri-food, in particular seaweeds are interesting for their beneficial properties in cosmetics. Calcareous red algae are in particular described in document US 2007/0248563 for their use in depilatory products. Mention may also be made of document FR 2 674 126 which describes calcareous red algae as being of remarkable interest as an infrared filter, ultraviolet filter, thermal insulator or absorbent.

It is in this context that the applicant has demonstrated, and this constitutes the basis of the present invention, that calcareous red algae had the ability to promote hydration of the skin, while having a mattifying effect, and this in a cosmetic composition in the form of a powder yet free of at least one of the components chosen from: talc, mica, silica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

A first object of the invention relates to a cosmetic care and/or makeup composition characterized in that it comprises:
- at least one calcareous red algae,
- at least one filler, and
- at least one fatty substance,
and in that said composition is in the form of a powder and is free of at least one of the components chosen from: talc, mica, silica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

A second object of the invention relates to the use of at least one calcareous red algae as an agent promoting hydration of the skin.

A third object of the invention relates to the use of at least one calcareous red algae as a mattifying agent for the skin.

A final object of the invention relates to a process for caring for and/or making up the skin by applying a composition according to the invention, in order to confer a moisturizing effect and/or a mattifying effect on the skin.

detailed description

Definitions

In the context of the present invention, the expression “cosmetic composition” designates a composition whose use is non-pharmaceutical, non-therapeutic, is not intended for the prevention and/or treatment of skin qualified as pathological by a specialist. in the field, such as a dermatologist. It is therefore for use on healthy skin.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "skin" means the skin of all or part of the body, in particular human, chosen from the legs, feet, armpits, hands, thighs, stomach, décolleté, neck , the arms, the torso, the back, the labial mucosa, the face and/or the scalp, advantageously the neckline and/or the face, even advantageously the face.

In the context of the present invention, the term “in powder form” is understood to mean a galenic form represented by a mixture of pulverulent solid particles, which can be in free or compact form, advantageously in the form of free powder. The diameter of the powder particles is adapted by those skilled in the art according to the end use of the cosmetic composition. For example, the diameter is between 0.5 μm and 100 μm, preferably between 2 μm and 80 μm, for example between 4 μm and 75 μm. The diameter designates the median diameter, also called d50, as measured conventionally in particle size. Preferably, the particle size will be measured by laser diffraction.

The term "loose powder" is intended to designate a mass of particles which are mainly isolated and mobile relative to each other. On the contrary, a “compact powder” corresponds to a mass of particles whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compacting during the preparation of the composition in powder form.

In the context of the present invention, the term "free of", a composition which comprises less than 1.0%, preferably less than 0.5%, more preferably less than 0.1%, by mass of at least one of the components chosen from: talc, silica, mica, titanium dioxide and their mixtures, relative to the mass of the composition, even more preferentially less than 0.01%, or even more preferentially, which does not comprise not at least one of the components selected from: talc, silica, mica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may comprise less than 1.0%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, preferably less than 0.01% by mass of talc, relative to the mass of the composition, even more preferably does not include talc. The composition according to the invention may comprise less than 1.0%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, preferably less than 0.01% by mass of mica, relative to the mass of the composition, even more preferably does not include mica. The composition according to the invention may comprise less than 1.0%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, preferably less than 0.01% by mass of silica, relative to the mass of the composition, even more preferably does not include silica. The composition according to the invention may comprise less than 1.0%, less than 0.5%, less than 0.1%, preferably less than 0.01% by mass of titanium dioxide, relative to the mass of the composition, even more preferably does not include titanium dioxide.

“Silica” means the chemical compound of formula SiO ₂ , in all its forms, for example crystalline silica, amorphous silica, hydrated silica, precipitated silica, as well as the compounds containing it usually used in cosmetics. It is intended to cover in particular according to the present invention, the compounds having the following INCI names: Silica (CAS number: 7631-86-9 or 112945-52-5 or 60676-86-0), Hydrated Silica (CAS number: 10279-57 -9 or 1343-98-2 or 7631-86-9 or 112926-00-8 or 63231-67-4), Ceria/Silica (CAS number 243133-71-3), Ceria/Silica Talc (CAS number 243133- 70-2), Dimethiconol/silica crosspolymer (CAS number 69856-02-6), Polymethylsilsesquioxane/silica crosspolymer, Silica caprylyl silylate (CAS number 92797-60-9), Silica cetyl silylate (CAS number 199876-45-4), Silica dimethicone silylate, Silica dimethyl silylate (CAS number 68611-44-9), Silica methacryloyloxypropyl silylate (CAS number 100402-78-6), Silica silylate. The term “talc” is intended to cover in particular the compound having the following INCI name: Talc (CAS number 14807-96-6). The term “titanium dioxide” is intended to cover in particular the compound having the following INCI name: Titanium dioxide (CAS number: 13463-67-7 or else CI77891). The term “mica” is intended to cover in particular the compound having the following INCI name: Mica (CAS number: 12001-26-2).

In the context of the present invention, the term “skin hydration-promoting agent” or “hydrating effect” means an agent or a composition allowing an increase in the hydration of the skin and/or allowing the preservation of the skin hydration level. An agent and/or a composition promoting the hydration of the skin allows, for example, a statistically significant increase in the hydration of the skin in the presence of the calcareous red algae according to the invention or of the composition according to the invention, versus the hydration of said skin without application of the calcareous red algae according to the invention or of the composition according to the invention. The measurement of the increase in hydration of the skin can be evaluated using a method for measuring Transepidermal Water Loss (PIE) expressed in g/m ² h (amount of water evaporated at the surface of the skin per unit of time). According to a particular characteristic of the invention, the preservation of the level of hydration of the skin results from the reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier. Reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier makes it possible to prevent the loss of water from the skin, in particular from the epidermis, and thus promotes hydration of the skin. Reinforcement of the skin barrier involves, for example, junctions whose function is intercellular cohesion. We can notably cite two types of junctions, at the origin of this cohesion:
- junctions in the form of bands (tight junctions), composed mainly of Claudin-type proteins,
- and rounded junctions (desmosomes), mainly composed of Desmocollines and Cadherins type proteins. The reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier can be evaluated by an in vitro method, measuring the stimulation of the expression of genes involved in the process of cutaneous reinforcement, such as the genes involved in the synthesis of the structural junctions of the skin, such as as desmosomes, or involved in the synthesis of tight junctions. For example, the reinforcement of the skin barrier is evaluated by measuring the stimulation of the expression of genes chosen from the Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) gene, the Desmocollin 1 (DSC1) gene, the Claudin 1 (CLDN1) gene, and/or the Claudin 4 gene (CLDN4). The methods for measuring the expression of genes are conventional and well known, for example by quantification of the synthesis of proteins resulting from the expression of a gene, in particular by a Western blot technique or by an ELISA technique; or for example by quantification of the messenger RNA, in particular by a Northern blot technique or by a reverse transcription method followed by a PCR with measurement of the fluorescence (RT qPCR). A method for measuring gene expression is described in Example 1.

In the context of the present invention, the term “mattifying agent” or “mattifying effect” means an agent and/or a composition allowing a reduction in the shiny appearance of the skin, by absorbing sebaceous secretions and by limiting the sebum production. A measurement using a Glossymeter (GU DSC unit for Gloss Unit Diffuse Scattering Correction), for example on synthetic skin or directly on the skin of a user, can in particular make it possible to evaluate the reduction in the appearance skin shine. According to this measurement, the invention allows a reduction in the shiny appearance of the skin by at least 10%, advantageously at least 20%, more preferably at least 30%, for example 40% of the skin in the presence of calcareous red algae according to the invention or of the composition according to the invention, versus the shiny appearance of said skin without application of the calcareous red algae according to the invention or of the composition according to the invention.

According to the present invention, the term "effective amount" means an amount sufficient to increase the hydration of the skin and/or to reduce the shiny appearance of the skin. Thus, in a particular embodiment of the invention, the calcareous red algae is used in a sufficient quantity to increase the hydration of the skin and/or to reduce the shiny appearance of the skin. In another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention is applied in a sufficient quantity in order to confer a moisturizing effect and/or a mattifying effect on the skin.

The present invention stems from the surprising advantages demonstrated by the inventor of the effect of a cosmetic composition on the skin comprising at least one calcareous red algae, said composition being in powder form and being free of at least one of components chosen from: talc, mica, silica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

Cosmetic care and/or makeup composition

The invention relates to a cosmetic care and/or makeup composition, characterized in that it comprises:
- at least one calcareous red algae,
- at least one filler, and
- at least one fatty substance,
and in that said composition is in the form of a powder and is free of at least one of the components chosen from: talc, mica, silica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof.

For example, the composition according to the invention is free of talc and of at least one of the components chosen from: silica, mica, titanium dioxide and their mixtures. According to another example, the composition according to the invention is free of talc and mica, and of at least one of the components chosen from: silica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred example of the invention, the composition according to the invention is free of talc, silica, mica and titanium dioxide.

calcareous red algae

In the context of the present invention, a calcareous red algae denotes a fossilized red algae of marine origin, rich in limestone. The calcareous red alga can be a macroscopic alga of the corallinaceae family, of the genus Corallina or Lithothamnium. Advantageously, the calcareous red algae used in the context of the present invention is an algae chosen from the following species: Lithothamnium Calcareum , Lithothamnium Corallioides , Corallina Officinalis , and mixtures thereof, preferably Lithothamnium Calcareum . The species Lithothamnium C alcareum is particularly suitable for the implementation of the invention. This species is notably marketed under the name Algalithe by the company NUWEN.

Calcareous red algae is used in powder form, the particle diameter of which is adjusted, for example by grinding and sieving, depending on the intended use. For example, particles having a median diameter of less than 100 μm will be used for the preparation of cosmetic care compositions, preferably between 2 μm and 80 μm, more preferably between 5 and 50 μm. The preparation of the calcareous red algae powders according to the invention involves the following general steps: a) fishing or harvesting the algae; b) washing and drying; c) very fine grinding; particle size (namely median diameter) for example between 5 μm and 50 μm (micronization); d) selection of the particles according to the fixed target (dynamic selector). These different steps are standard and well known to those skilled in the art.

In a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises a mixture of species of calcareous red algae.

The calcareous red algae or the mixture of species of calcareous red algae represents for example between 1 and 50% by mass of the mass of the composition, preferably between 5% and 30%, more preferably between 5 and 15% .

Charge agent

The composition according to the invention may comprise a bulking agent or a mixture of bulking agents. By bulking agent, it is necessary to understand a compound in solid form, immiscible and in which the rest of the ingredients of the composition are dispersed. It is introduced into a mixture to reduce the cost, improve certain properties (for example the covering power, the feel or the compaction of cosmetic powders), or even modify the density. The bulking agent used in the composition according to the invention promotes the spreading of the powder on the surface of the skin, and improves the softness of the composition.

Advantageously, the bulking agent is also an absorbent agent and/or an anti-caking agent.

The bulking agent can be chosen from the following list of compounds: Kaolin clay (INCI name: Kaolin), Rice starch (INCI name: Oryza sativa (rice) starch), Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (INCI name), magnesium (INCI name: magnesium stearate), Corn starch (INCI name: Zea Mays Starch), Montmorillonite green clay (INCI name: Montmorillonite), Bentonite clay (INCI name: Bentonite), Illite clay (INCI name: Illite), Nylon-n (INCI name: Nylon-n) (such as Nylon-12, Nylon-66, Nylon-6, Nylon 6-12, Nylon 10/10), Calcium Carbonate (INCI name: Calcium carbonate), Earth of diatom (INCI name: Diatomaceous earth), Cassava starch (INCI name: Manihot Utilssima (Tapioca) Starch), Serica powder (INCI name: Silk powder), Fluorphlogopite, Mg3K[AlF2O(SiO3)3] (INCI name: Synthetic Fluorphlogopite), Polymethylsilsesquioxane (INCI name: Polymethylsilsesquioxane), Microcrystalline cellulose (INCI name: Microcrystalline Cellulose), and mixtures thereof, preferably not rmi: Kaolin clay, rice starch, magnesium stearate and mixtures thereof.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, said bulking agent is a mixture of Kaolin clay, rice starch and magnesium stearate.

The bulking agent or the mixture of bulking agents represents for example between 10 and 80%, preferably between 20 and 70%, more preferably between 25 and 55%, for example between 25 and 35% by mass of the mass of the composition.

Fat body

The composition according to the invention may comprise a fatty substance or a mixture of fatty substances. The fatty substance used in the composition according to the invention promotes the adhesion of the composition in powder form to the skin, promotes the spreading of the powder on the surface of the skin, and improves the softness of the skin.

The fatty substance used according to the invention can correspond to an oil, a wax, a butter, or their mixtures. By oil is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25°C). By wax, we mean a compound that is solid or substantially solid at room temperature (25°C), and whose melting point is generally above 35°C and can go up to 120°C. By butter, we mean a fatty substance that is solid at room temperature (25°C), and liquid at a temperature of around 35°C. In particular, an essential oil is not a fatty substance as defined according to the invention.

An oil used for the implementation of the invention may in particular correspond to:
- a mineral or synthetic oil (such as paraffin, petroleum jelly, perhydrosqualene, squalane, polyalkylenes, for example polybutene);
- a vegetable oil (for example sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant seed oil, jojoba seed oil, sunflower seed oil, vine oil, soybean oil, sesame oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, sea buckthorn oil, avocado oil, oat oil, babassu oil, baobab oil, borage oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, oil coconut oil, copra oil, cottonseed oil, raspberry oil; wheat germ oil, karanja oil, moringa oil, nigella oil, hazelnut oil, brazil nut oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, castor oil, rice bran oil, etc.),
- an oily macerate, such as an oily macerate of Aloe vera, Arnica, Calendula, carrot, prickly pear, lily, monoi, vanilla, etc.,
- a fatty alcohol,
- an acid or a fatty acid ester such as in particular octyl palmitate, isopropyl lanolate, isostearic acid, isocetyl stearoyl stearate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate,
- a fatty acid derivative, such as lauroyl lysine or squalene
- a triglyceride including those of capric/caprylic acids,
- an oxyethylenated or oxypropylene fatty acid ester or ether, silicone (such as cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxane or PDMS) or fluorinated, or
- a metal salt derived from fatty acids (such as zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, calcium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate).

A butter used for the implementation of the invention can for example correspond to a vegetable butter such as shea butter, almond, avocado, cocoa, cupuaçu, kokum, kombo, mango, 'olive.

A wax used for the implementation of the invention can for example correspond to a candelilla wax, a beeswax, a rice wax, a carnauba wax, a soy wax, a floral mimosa wax, a tuberose wax, jasmine wax, Damask rose wax.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the fatty substance is chosen from the following list of compounds: Squalane (INCI name), Zinc Stearate (INCI name: Zinc stearate), Sunflower seed oil (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus seed oil), Sweet almond oil (INCI name: Sweet almond oil), Vine oil (INCI name: Vitis Vinifera oil), Magnesium stearate (INCI name: Magnesium stearate), Calcium stearate (INCI name: Calcium stearate), Soybean oil (INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), isostearic acid (INCI name), Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate (INCI name), Coco-caprylate/caprate (INCI name), Caprylic/Capric triglyceride (INCI name ), Lauroyl Lysine (INCI name), Jojoba seed oil (INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis seed oil), Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (INCI name), and mixtures thereof; preferably squalane, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof.

The fatty substance or the mixture of fatty substances represents for example between 0.5 and 40%, preferentially between 2 and 30%, preferentially still between 5 and 20%, for example between 10 and 15% by mass of the mass of the composition .

According to the invention, the mass ratio between the bulking agent and the fatty substance can be between 160/1 and 1/4, preferentially between 35/1 and 2/3, preferentially still between 11/1 and 5/4 , for example between 7/2 and 5/3.

According to the invention, the mass ratio between the bulking agent and the calcareous red algae can be between 80/1 and 1/5, preferentially between 14/1 and 2/3, preferentially still between 11/1 and 5 /3.

According to the invention, the mass ratio between the fatty substance and the calcareous red algae can be between 40/1 and 1/100, preferentially 6/1 and 1/15, preferentially still between 4/1 and 1/3.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one opacifying agent or a mixture of opacifying agents, making it possible in particular to provide coverage to the composition. The opacifying agent is for example chosen from magnesium oxide (INCI name: Magnesium oxide), magnesium myristate (INCI name), magnesium carbonate (INCI name), aluminum hydroxide (INCI name), magnesium aluminum silicate (INCI name), and mixtures thereof, preferably magnesium oxide.

The opacifying agent or the mixture of opacifying agents represents for example between 10 and 40%, preferably between 15 and 30%, more preferably between 20 and 25%, by weight of the weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one humectant or a mixture of humectants, which will increase the hydration of the skin. The humectant is for example chosen from: glycerol (INCI name: glycerin), butylene glycol (INCI name: Butylene glycol), propylene glycol (INCI name: Propylene glycol), pentylene glycol (INCI name: Pentylene Glycol), hyaluronic acid and its salts (INCI name: Hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate, etc.), urea (INCI name: urea), silk (INCI name: serica), calcium gluconate (INCI name: calcium gluconate), various oses (fructose, glucose, isomalt, lactose, maltitol, mannitol, polydextrose, sorbitol, sucrose, xylitol), histidine (INCI name: histidine), glycyrrhizic acid and derivatives, silk hydrolysates, keratin hydrolysates or soy hydrolysates, pidolic acid (PCA) and derivatives ( Arginine PCA, Chitosan PCA, Copper PCA, Ethylhexyl PCA, Lauryl PCA, Magnesium PCA, Sodium PCA, Zinc PCA…) and their mixtures, preferably glycerin.

The humectant or the mixture of humectants represents for example between 0.1 and 20%, preferentially between 1 and 15%, preferentially still between 2 and 10%, for example between 2 and 5% by mass of the mass of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one pigment or a mixture of pigments, preferably of mineral origin. The pigment may optionally be coated with an oil, such as avocado oil (INCI name: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil), hydrogenated vegetable oil (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil) or tocopherol (INCI name: tocopherol). The pigment which may be suitable for the implementation of the invention is for example chosen from the following: Iron oxide (CI 77492), Ultramarines (CI 77007), Carmine (CI 75470), Chromium Oxides Green (CI 77288), Chromium hydroxides Green (CI 77289), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI 77510), Manganese Violet (CI 77742), Yellow 5 Lake (CI 19140), Blue 1 Lake (CI 42090), and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the pigment is a mineral pigment coated with avocado oil, for example iron oxide pigment coated with avocado oil.

The pigment or the mixture of pigments represents for example between 1 and 20% by mass of the mass of the composition, preferably between 1 and 10%.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention can also comprise at least one perfume. The perfume or the perfume mixture represents for example between 0.1 and 3%, preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight of the weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the pigment, the perfume, the humectant and/or the opacifying agent and their quantities in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the contemplated addition(s). The composition may include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Such ingredients can be chosen from antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients (such as plant extracts, vitamins, etc.), moisturizers, sunscreens, surfactants, emulsifiers, dispersing agents , neutralizers, stabilizers, nacres, glitter, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be a cosmetic make-up composition, for example a compact or free-form foundation powder, an eye shadow, etc., preferably a free-form foundation powder.

The cosmetic composition is advantageously a cosmetic care composition, for example a deodorant, a dry shampoo.

The composition according to the invention can be prepared by the conventional methods for preparing a cosmetic composition in powder form, for example by mixing the various compounds until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. A particular treatment of certain raw materials can be applied, such as, for example, the grinding of the pigments in order to disperse them within the other compounds in the form of powders, or even a spraying into fine droplets of the compounds in liquid form.
Use

Another object of the invention relates to the use of at least one calcareous red algae as an agent promoting hydration of the skin. The hydration of the skin results in particular from the reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier.

Said at least one calcareous red algae is preferably used in an effective amount to moisturize the skin, in particular to increase the hydration of the skin, for example in an amount ranging from 5 to 100 mg per daily application, preferably from 20 to 80 mg per daily application, more preferably from 30 to 50 mg per daily application.

The invention also relates to the use of at least one calcareous red algae as a mattifying agent for the skin.

Said at least one calcareous red algae is preferably used in an amount effective to mattify the skin, in particular to reduce the shiny appearance of the skin, for example in an amount ranging from 5 to 100 mg per daily application, preferably from 20 to 80 mg per daily application, more preferably from 30 to 50 mg per daily application.

According to the uses of the invention, said at least one calcareous red algae can be alone in the form of active ingredient and/or in a cosmetic composition, preferably intended for application to the surface of the skin. In particular, said at least one calcareous red algae can be used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention. When said at least one calcareous red algae is used alone in the form of active ingredient, it is diluted in a cosmetically acceptable solvent or used directly in powder form. The calcareous red algae or the mixture of calcareous red algae which are suitable for the uses according to the invention are those described in relation to the cosmetic composition according to the invention, above.

According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to the use of Lithothamnium Calcareum as an agent promoting hydration of the skin and/or as a mattifying agent for the skin.

Process for caring for and/or making up the skin, body and/or face

Another object of the invention relates to a process for caring for and/or making up the skin by applying a composition according to the invention, in order to confer a moisturizing effect and/or a mattifying effect on the skin. The moisturizing effect of the skin results in particular from the reinforcement of the skin barrier.

In the process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition can be applied to the surface of the skin, for example by direct application to the surface of the skin.

In the process according to the invention, the cosmetic composition can be applied to the surface of the skin in an effective quantity, in order to confer a moisturizing effect and/or a mattifying effect on the skin, for example in a quantity ranging from 100 to 1500 mg per daily application, preferably from 200 to 1000 mg per daily application, more preferably from 400 to 800 mg per daily application.

The present invention will now be illustrated by the following non-limiting examples. In these examples, and unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are expressed by weight and the temperature is room temperature.

Examples

Example 1 according to the invention : Cosmetic composition in the form of p foundation free powder .

Mode of preparation of a composition according to examples 1A to 1E:

The various compositions described below were prepared according to the following preparation steps:

Step 1) All raw materials have been weighed.

Step 2) Uncolored powders, such as bulking agent, fatty substance, opacifying agent and calcareous red algae were mixed using a ribbon or paddle mixer until obtain a homogeneous mixture. The powders were incorporated into the mixture according to their volatility (from the most volatile to the least volatile to limit dustiness when introducing the powders).

Step 3) The liquid raw materials, such as the fatty substance or the humectant were sprayed in fine droplets on the mixture, preferably with stirring. If the fatty substance is in solid form (wax or butter), at room temperature, it must be melted to reach a temperature above the melting point and then sprayed in fine droplets on the mixture.

Step 4) The raw materials were mixed until a homogeneous phase was obtained.

Step 5) The pigment mixture was then introduced.

Example 1A: A first composition according to the invention is described in Table 1.

Ingredients Percentage relative to the total mass of the composition Kaolin 28.5% Lithothamnium calcareum 6.7% zinc stearate 9.6% magnesium oxide 23% Squalane 3.8% Iron oxide 1, coated with avocado oil 1.3% Iron oxide 2, coated with avocado oil 1.5% Iron oxide 3, coated with avocado oil 1.2% Rice powder 22% Glycerin 2.4% TOTAL 100%

Example 1B: A second composition according to the invention is described in Table 2.

Ingredients Percentage relative to the total mass of the composition Kaolin 21.25% Lithothamnium calcareum 10% zinc stearate 8% Magnesium carbonate 27% Sweet almond oil 2% Iron oxide 1 1.2% Iron oxide 2 0.55% Iron oxide 3 6% rice starch 23% Urea 1% TOTAL 100%

Example 1C: A third composition according to the invention is described in Table 3.

Ingredients Percentage relative to the total mass of the composition diatomaceous earth 10.7% Lithothamnium calcareum 18% Magnesium Stearate 12% magnesium oxide 20.5% Argan Oil 2% Iron oxide 1 1.8% Iron oxide 2 0.8% Iron oxide 3 0.7% Corn starch 32.35% Glycerin 1.15% TOTAL 100%

Example 1D: A fourth composition according to the invention is described in Table 4.

Ingredients Percentage in relation to the total mass of the composition Kaolin 26.1% Lithothamnium calcareum 7% magnesium oxide 24% Zinc Stearate 10% Squalane 4% Iron oxide 1 1.2% Iron oxide 2 2% Iron oxide 3 0.3% rice starch 23% Glycerin 2.4% TOTAL 100%

Example 1E: A fifth composition according to the invention is described in Table 5.

Ingredients Percentage relative to the total mass of the composition Bentonite 40% Lithothamnium calcareum 5% magnesium oxide 24% Zinc Stearate 4% Caprylic/Capric triglyceride 10% Iron oxide 1 0.85% Iron oxide 2 1.75% Iron oxide 3 0.15% Calcium carbonate 13% Butylene glycol 1.25% TOTAL 100%

Example 2 according to the invention: In vitro test of the moisturizing effect of a calcareous red algae.

The effectiveness of calcareous red algae on strengthening the skin barrier was assessed by screening the modulation of 13 genes involved in the skin biological process, namely: Ribosomal protein S28 (RPS28), Glyceraldehyde-3- phosphate dehydrogenase (GAPDH), Claudin 1 (CLDN1), Claudin 4 (CLDN4), Envoplakin (EVPL), Corneodesmosin (CDSN), Desmoglein 1 (DSG1), Desmocollin 1 (DSC1), Occludin (OCLN), Cingulin (CGN), Tight junction protein 1 (TJP1), F11 receptor (F11R), CD44 molecule (CD44).

The calcareous red algae was tested on human epidermal cells (“Normal Human Epidermal Keratinocytes” (NHEK) type keratinocytes) obtained from cell culture.

NHEK cells were cultured in a “keratinocyte-SFM (serum free medium)” type medium, supplemented with: Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) at a concentration of 0.25 ng/ml, Pituitary Extract (EP) at a concentration of 25 μg/ml, and in Gentamicin at a concentration of 25 μg/ml for 24 hours at 37° C. and under an atmosphere of 5% CO ₂ .

After 24 h of cell culture, the cells were brought into contact for 24 h, under the following conditions:
- 0.03 mg of Lithothamnium calcareum powder per ml of culture medium, or
- a negative control, which corresponds to no treatment.

The expression of the targeted genes was measured in the medium, after exposure to the different test conditions. The measurement method consists of the extraction of mRNA from cells, their reverse transcription into DNA, the amplification of DNA by PCR and then the monitoring of the level of amplification by fluorescence measurement. This fluorescence measurement makes it possible to determine the initial quantity of mRNA. The protocol is detailed below:

For each of the test conditions, the extraction of total RNA from the cells was carried out using the “TriPure Isolation” reagent, following the supplier's instructions. The quantity and quality of total RNA were measured using capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent technologies). The mRNA purification was carried out using a “Chemagic Mrna Direct” kit. The complementary DNA was synthesized by reverse transcription of the mRNA, in the presence of oligo dT nucleotides and Transcriptor Reverse Transcriptase enzymes (Supplier: Roche). The amount of cDNA was adjusted before performing the quantitative PCR step. The quantitative PCR reaction was carried out using a “LightCycler®” system (Roche Molecular system Inc.), according to the supplier's instructions. The reagent mixture was prepared as follows:
- 2.5 µl of cDNA,
- primers (sense and antisense),
- reagent mixture containing DNA taq polymerase, SYBR Green I and MgCl _2.

Fluorescence was quantified using a fluorescence intensity versus PCT cycle parameter, allowing the relative expression (ER) to be assessed for each gene. A fluorescence threshold is established by the program of the real-time PCR device. The value selected to calculate the ER parameter corresponds to the PCR cycle number called "Ct" for "Cycle Threshold" or "threshold cycle". For a given gene, the maximum value corresponds to the cycle, and the minimum value to the mRNA quantity.

The parameter ER was calculated according to the following formula: (1/2 ^{number of cycles} )×10 ⁶ .

The RPS28 and GAPDH reference genes were used to normalize the values obtained, their expression being stable regardless of the environmental conditions. The level of expression of the eleven genes was therefore compared to that of these two genes.

The effect of gene expression as a function of relative expression is described in Table 6.

Relative expression (in percentage %) compared to the expression of control genes Effect on gene expression Greater than 300% strong stimulation Between 200 and 300% Stimulation Between 150 and 200% Weak stimulation Between 50 and 65% Weak inhibition Between 30 and 50% Inhibition Less than 30% strong inhibition

The results are described below in Table 7.

Characteristic of genes Measurement of gene expression 0.03 mg/ml Lithothamnium calcareum powder

Relative expression (in percentage %) compared to the expression of control genes Reference genes RPS28 102 GAPDH 100 Adhesive joints CLDN1 230 CLDN4 242 EVPL 143 NSDC 167 DSG1 522 DSC1 221 OCLN 390 CGN 127 TJP1 112 F11R 196 CD44 110

Results :

Four genes involved (Goldsmith LA, Katz SI, Gilchrest BA, Paller AS, Leffell DJ, Wolf K: Fitzpatrick's Dermatology In General Medicine, 8 ^th Edition) in skin cohesion were significantly up-regulated for cells that had been treated with Lithothamnium calcareum powder compared to the average expression of the two reference genes (RPS28 and GAPDH), namely:
- the Desmoglein 1 (DSG1) and Desmocollin 1 (DSC1) genes, involved in the formation of desmosomes. Desmosomes are intercellular structural junctions that confer their correct shape to cells, as well as good cohesion between them, in order to reinforce the resistance of tissues to mechanical stresses. A cohesive and intact epidermis is essential to prevent excessive water loss (dehydration of the epidermis), and
- the Claudin 1 (CLDN1) and Claudin 4 (CLDN4) genes involved in the constitution of tight junctions, which ensure a seal between the cells, also preventing excessive water loss (prevention of dehydration of the epidermis).

In conclusion, Lithothamnium calcareum allows the activation of the expression of the DSG1, DSC1, CLDN1 and CLDN4 genes, which are involved in the reinforcement of the cutaneous barrier, which induces an improvement in cutaneous hydration. Lithothamnium calcareum therefore has a moisturizing effect.

Example 3 according to the invention: Test in vitro effect matifying of a calcareous red algae

The mattifying effectiveness of calcareous red algae powder is measured on synthetic skin models, by measuring a shine index using a glossmeter-type probe.

The Glossymeter device projects light onto the skin, which is then reflected at a 60° angle by mirrors. The directly reflected light (i.e. the sheen) and the diffused light are then measured, making it possible to quantify the luminosity, the radiance of the skin or even the mattifying effect of a product.

The synthetic skin is first covered with rapeseed oil, then 1 gram of Lithothamnium calcareum powder is applied to half of this skin only. The other half of the skin does not undergo any treatment and serves as a control zone.

Measurements are then made immediately after application to quantify the mattifying effect provided by Lithothamnium calcareum in comparison with the area without treatment. Preliminary studies have shown that the calcareous red algae powder according to the invention has a mattifying efficacy.

Example 4 according to the invention: In vivo test of the moisturizing effect and mattifying d and the composition through a qualitative assessment

The composition according to Example 1A (free foundation powder) was used to measure its moisturizing and/or mattifying effect on the skin, in the context of a use test. A panel of twenty volunteers tested the powder described in example 1A, by application to the skin of the face according to the following protocol: Apply the composition with a brush to the entire face, emphasizing the areas of shine (zone T: forehead , nose, chin) 1-2 times a day.

The brush application was carried out by turning the compact upside down (cover closed) and tapping it lightly so that the powder adheres to the sieve. The compact was then put back in place and the cover was unscrewed. The powder was picked up with the brush by making circular movements and tapping lightly on the sieve. The volunteer then removed the excess powder by tapping the handle of the brush above the sink or above the compact. The volunteer then made circular movements with the brush over the entire face to deposit the powder (with emphasis on the T-zone). The application was renewed if necessary at midday.

The moisturizing and mattifying effects of the composition were tested in vivo using a qualitative method for 21 days:

Day 1 (D1): The samples of the composition were given to the volunteers as well as the instructions for use. The application area has been defined. A study site (face or body), and a study area were delimited by each of the volunteers.

Between D1 and D21: the product was applied by the volunteer himself, at home, according to the conditions of use described above, taking care to apply it to the area defined on D1.

: At the end of the 21 days of application, a questionnaire was submitted to the panel, in order to measure the properties of the powder with respect to drying, hydration and mattifying effect. When more than 70% of the panel volunteers answered positively to a question, the allegation is considered validated and statistically admissible. The results are described in Table 8.

Question % of volunteers who responded positively to the question The product absorbs excess sebum 100% The skin is mattified 100% The skin is hydrated 90.48% The product does not dry out the skin 95.24% The product protects the skin from dehydration 90.48%

Interpretation: the volunteers responded positively to the questions relating to the moisturizing and mattifying effect of the composition according to Example 1A, it can therefore be deduced therefrom that the moisturizing and mattifying effects observed in vitro are confirmed in vivo.

Example 5 according to the invention: In vivo test of the mating effect iant of the composition by instrumental method

The composition according to Example 1A (free foundation powder) was used to measure its moisturizing effect on the skin, as part of a usage test.

A panel of 10 volunteers received a single application of the powder described in example 1A, on the skin of the forehead. The mattifying effect was analyzed by instrumental measurement of shine with a Glossymeter-type device at time T=0h, T=1h and T=4h.

If the skin has a shine index lower than that measured at T=0h, at the time points T=1h and T=4h, the powder could be declared as having a mattifying effect.

The results are shown in Table 9.

Control area
(GUDSC)* Treated area e
(GUDSC)* Measurement time T0 T1h T4h T0 T1h T4h Average of the values of the 10 volunteers 8.4 8.6 8.5 8.4 4.5 5.7 % TX/T0 variation, with X=1h, 4h depending on the tests - 2.4% 1.2% - -46.4% -32.1%

*GU DSC: Gloss Unit with Diffuse Scattering Correction

The area treated with the composition demonstrates a significant average reduction in the shine of the skin at 1 o'clock and 4 o'clock in comparison with the untreated area. The mattifying effect of the powder according to Example 1A is quantitatively significant at the 2 deadlines tested.

Claims (14)

Cosmetic care and/or makeup composition characterized in that it comprises:
- at least one calcareous red algae,
- at least one filler, and
- at least one fatty substance,
and in that said composition is in the form of a powder and is free of at least one of the components chosen from: talc, mica, silica, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the red algae is an algae chosen from the following species: Lithothamnium Calcareum , Lithothamnium Corallioides , Corallina Officinalis , and mixtures thereof, preferably Lithothamnium Calcareum . Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the calcareous red algae or the mixture of species of calcareous red algae represents between 1 and 50% by mass of the mass of the composition, preferably between 5% and 30%, more preferably between 5 and 15%. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the bulking agent is chosen from the following list of compounds: Kaolin clay (INCI name: Kaolin), Rice starch (INCI name: Oryza sativa ( rice) starch), Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (INCI Name), Magnesium Stearate (INCI Name: Magnesium Stearate), Corn Starch (INCI Name: Zea Mays Starch), Montmorillonite Green Clay (INCI Name: Montmorillonite), Bentonite Clay ( INCI name: Bentonite), Illite clay (INCI name: Illite), Nylon-n (INCI name: Nylon-n), Calcium carbonate (INCI name: Calcium carbonate), Diatomaceous earth (INCI name: Diatomaceous earth), Starch cassava (INCI name: Manihot Utilssima (Tapioca) Starch), Serica powder (INCI name: Silk powder), Fluorphlogopite, Mg3K[AlF2O(SiO3)3] (INCI name: Synthetic Fluorphlogopite), Polymethylsilsesquioxane (INCI name: Polymethylsilsesquioxane) , Microcrystalline Cellulose (INCI Name: Microcrystalline Cellulose), and mixtures thereof, of preferably from: Kaolin clay, rice starch, magnesium stearate and mixtures thereof, even more preferably said bulking agent is a mixture of kaolin clay, rice starch and magnesium stearate. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the filler or the mixture of fillers represents between 10 and 80%, preferably between 20 and 70%, more preferably between 25 and 55%, by weight of the weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the fatty substance is chosen from the following list of compounds: Squalane (INCI name), Zinc Stearate (INCI name: Zinc stearate), Sunflower seed oil (INCI name: Helianthus Annuus seed oil), Sweet almond oil (INCI name: Sweet almond oil), Vine oil (INCI name: Vitis Vinifera oil), Magnesium stearate (INCI name: Magnesium stearate), Calcium stearate (INCI name: Calcium stearate), Soybean Oil (INCI name: Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil), isostearic acid (INCI name), Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate (INCI name), Coco-caprylate/caprate (INCI name), Caprylic/ Capric triglyceride (INCI name), Lauroyl Lysine (INCI name), Jojoba seed oil (INCI name: Simmondsia chinensis seed oil), Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate (INCI name), and mixtures thereof; preferably from: squalane, zinc stearate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the fatty substance or the mixture of fatty substances represents between 0.5 and 40%, preferably between 2 and 30%, more preferably between 5 and 20% by mass of the mass of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the mass ratio between the bulking agent and the fatty substance is between 160/1 and 1/4, preferably between 35/1 and 2/3, preferably still between 11/1 and 5/4. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the mass ratio between the bulking agent and the calcareous red algae is between 80/1 and 1/5, preferably between 14/1 and 2/ 3, more preferably still between 11/1 and 5/3. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the mass ratio between the fatty substance and the calcareous red algae is between 40/1 and 1/100, preferentially 6/1 and 1/15, preferentially still between 4/1 and 1/3. Use of at least one calcareous red algae as an agent that promotes hydration of the skin. Use according to claim 11, wherein the hydration of the skin results from the strengthening of the skin barrier. Use of at least one calcareous red algae as a mattifying agent for the skin. Process for caring for and/or making up the skin by applying a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 10, in order to confer a moisturizing effect and/or a mattifying effect on the skin.