FR3104986A1 - Liquid cosmetic composition with shine and hold properties - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least: - a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) (I) in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3 y varies between 1 and 1000, z varies between 1 and 1000, and- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising: a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and a branched ester of dextrin.

Description

Liquid cosmetic composition with shine and hold properties

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics and in particular to a liquid cosmetic composition possessing shine and shine-retaining properties over time.

Known from the prior art are make-up products for the lips, in liquid, semi-fluid or solid (stick) form, having properties that hold the color over time. Glossy make-up products for the lips (gloss) are also known, but it is difficult to combine the properties of gloss and gloss retention over time, a fortiori in a single and same composition.

In fact, “double gesture” lip makeup products are known with the application of a first composition to provide color and the application of a second composition to deposit a shiny film. However, there remains the need to develop compositions for a simple application ('one step') making it possible to provide both improved shine properties, and color retention and shine retention properties in the time, while remaining comfortable.

The Applicant has rightly demonstrated that the combined use of two immiscible oils, a specific resin and specific polymers for the hold, made it possible to meet this need. The present invention thus makes it possible to obtain an immediate shine greater than or equal to that of the lip varnishes available on the market with an improved hold of the shine over time.

An object of the invention is to provide a liquid composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, in particular a composition for making up the lips in a single gesture, having improved shine and shine-holding properties.

By "liquid" is meant a fluid composition which is capable of flowing under its own weight, at 20° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), as opposed to so-called solid or semi-solid compositions. According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention is a liquid lipstick, also called lip lacquer, or a gloss.

Since the composition of the invention is non-homogeneous or biphasic due to the presence of two immiscible oils, it can be implemented according to two alternative embodiments:

• A first mode consisting of a packaging device with several compartments allowing the contacting of the immiscible oily phases, present in separate compartments, only at the time of the distribution of the composition; And
• a second mode consisting of a composition with an inhomogeneous or biphasic appearance, when it is in the form of a bulk or in its packaging unit, to be mixed extemporaneously by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before use.

More specifically, it will be a lip makeup composition for application in a single gesture ('one step').

We will thus speak of a 'packaged' composition to describe the 'non-homogeneous or multi-phase' (e.g. biphasic) composition in bulk form or in its packaging unit, and of a composition 'to be applied to keratin materials' to describe the 'homogeneous' composition at the outlet of the dispensing device or as re-homogenized after extemporaneous mixing by mechanical action of the non-homogeneous composition.

By “homogeneous”, it is meant that the composition to be applied to the keratin materials has a visually homogeneous appearance, that is to say a composition in which each of the phases cannot be individualized with the naked eye.

On the contrary, by 'non-homogeneous', it is meant that the composition, as prepared and packaged, does not have the same characteristics and/or the same properties in all its parts, that it presents visually distinct phases, either within of a device with several compartments, or within the same composition in which each of the phases can be individualized with the naked eye. We will speak of composition or system (for the device containing the two separate phases in distinct compartments) 'non-homogeneous' or 'multi-phase' or 'biphasic'.

A non-homogeneous composition according to the invention macroscopically exhibits a partial or total phase shift in the form of several globules, clusters or strata, as opposed to a homogeneous or uniform composition.

For this purpose, according to a first aspect of the invention, a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least:
- a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)

(I)

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

y varies between 1 and 1000, and

z varies between 1 and 1000,
- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising:
a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and
a branched ester of dextrin.

Phases A and B are mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device, forming a homogeneous composition to be applied to keratin materials.

It also relates to a liquid cosmetic composition of non-homogeneous or biphasic appearance comprising

a) a first phase A′ comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)

(I)

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

y varies between 1 and 1000, and

z varies between 1 and 1000,
b) a second phase B', visually distinct from the first phase A', and comprising a C8-C30 fatty alcohol incompatible with the phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) of phase A', and a branched ester of dextrin .

The non-homogeneous or biphasic cosmetic composition according to the invention is intended to be mixed extemporaneously by a mechanical action in order to be re-homogenized before application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition such that distributed by the cosmetic device defined in the invention, or of a composition of non-homogeneous or biphasic appearance as defined in the invention, after mixing of the latter by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before application.

The liquid cosmetic composition according to the invention, resulting from the mixing at the outlet of the two-phase dispensing device, or from the mixing by mechanical action for re-homogenization of the non-homogeneous or biphasic liquid composition, is in the form of a homogeneous composition and includes at least:

1. a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)

(I)

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

y varies between 1 and 1000, and

z varies between 1 and 1000,
b) a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and
c) a branched dextrin ester.

In particular, the composition according to the invention is a makeup composition and preferably a makeup composition for the lips.

A first object of the invention relates to a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least:
- a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)

(I)

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

y varies between 1 and 1000, and

z varies between 1 and 1000,
- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising:
a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and
a branched ester of dextrin.

Phases A and B are mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device, forming a homogeneous composition, intended to be applied to keratin materials.

C8-C30 fatty alcohol (hydrocarbon oil) and branched dextrin ester allow the color to adhere to keratin materials. Phenyl silicone oil, incompatible with C8-C30 fatty alcohol, forms an ultra-shiny transparent film on the surface.

Advantageously, the composition will also comprise a gelling and/or structuring agent, in particular pasty fatty substances, waxes or their mixture, which make it possible to set and stabilize the system without disturbing the result of hold and shine.

To improve comfort on application and over time, oils and semi-solid fatty substances may advantageously be added. To improve the holding performance and/or to reduce the feeling of stickiness likely to appear gradually due to the presence of the branched ester and any other holding polymers, pulverulent fillers can advantageously be added. To increase the glide on application and improve the sensoriality of the deposited film, oils which are eliminated on application and which form the film can also be added.

To increase the gloss and color holding performance (in other words non-transfer properties), polymers are advantageously added.

In the rest of the description, in particular for the description of the constituent ingredients of the phases and compositions of the invention, we will speak of “composition of the invention”, indifferently for the multiphase system packaged in the packaging and distribution device; for the composition dispensed by said packaging and dispensing device according to the invention; for the composition with an inhomogeneous or biphasic appearance; and for the composition resulting from the mixing by mechanical action before application to the keratin materials.

The composition of ingredients, of the constituent phases of the cosmetic composition of the invention is described below. The % by weight are expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

Constituent ingredients of the phases and compositions of the invention

The fatty phase of the composition of the invention therefore comprises at least two oily phases, due to the presence of immiscible oils.

The term “oily phase” means an oil or a mixture of oils.

By “oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

By “silicone oil”, is meant according to the invention an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group.

By “hydrocarbon oil” is meant according to the invention an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms.

The composition of the invention will in particular comprise at least one phenyl silicone oil and one hydrocarbon oil.

Phenyl silicone oil (silicone oil)

The composition of the invention comprises at least one phenyl silicone oil. The term “phenylated silicone oil” according to the invention means an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.

The phenyl silicone oil according to the invention is chosen in particular from the group consisting of phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)

(I)

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

y varies between 1 and 1000, and

z varies between 1 and 1000.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, y varies between 1 and 1000. It is possible to use, for example, Belsils PDM20, PDM100 and PDM1000 from Wacker and in particular trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone, in particular sold under the name BELSIL PDM 1000 marketed by the company Wacker (MW=9000g/mol).

The phenyl silicone oil is present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 40% by weight, in particular from 15 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The composition may also comprise a second phenyl silicone oil distinct from the first and having a formula (II)

in which the groups R independently of each other represent a methyl or a phenyl, at least three of them, or even at least four of them, or even at least five of them being a phenyl.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises, as second phenyl silicone oil, a compound of formula (III)

in which Me represents a methyl and Ph represents a phenyl, otherwise called trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane.

Such a phenyl silicone is notably manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or even Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl 1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyl trisiloxane, INCI name : trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane). Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used. According to a preferred mode, the reference PH-1555 HRI (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane) will be used.

According to a particular mode, the second phenyl silicone oil distinct from the first phenyl silicone oil described above is present in a content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular from 4 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular mode, the first and the second phenyl silicone oils are present in the composition in a weight ratio (% 1 ^st phenyl silicone oil/% 2 ^nd phenyl silicone oil) ranging from 2 to 6, in particular from 3 to 5.

C8-C30 fatty alcohols (hydrocarbon oil)

The compositions according to the invention also comprise at least one fatty alcohol. Fatty alcohols can be represented by the formula ROH, R representing a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, more particularly comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the aforementioned R radical is a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30, in particular from 10 to 24, and preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms.

As examples of fatty alcohols which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of linear or branched fatty alcohols, of synthetic or even natural origin. Of course, other long-chain alcohols can also be used, such as, for example, ether-alcohols or even so-called Guerbet alcohols.

According to a particular embodiment, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof .

Preferably, octyldodecanol will be used. We can cite in particular ISOFOL 20 from SASOL.

According to a particular embodiment, the amount of fatty alcohol in the composition according to the invention will range from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, preferably from 2% to 5% by weight relative to the weight total of said composition for a solid formula.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least one first phenyl silicone oil as described previously and at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol in a weight ratio (R1=% phenyl silicone oil/% C8-C30 fatty alcohol) ranging from 8 to 20, especially from 10 to 18.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition will comprise at least a first phenyl silicone oil and a second phenyl silicone oil as described above and at least one C8-C30 fatty alcohol in a weight ratio (R2= (% ^1st phenyl silicone oil + % 2nd ^of phenyl silicone oil)/% C8-C30 fatty alcohol) ranging from 12 to 25, in particular from 15 to 20.

Branched dextrin ester

The branched dextrin ester according to the invention may comprise an esterified chain or several esterified chains, which are identical or different. It may for example be a dextrin esterified with several identical or different fatty acids. These dextrin esters can be prepared by implementing standard esterification methods. For example, the following methods can be implemented:

1) The dextrin having an average degree of glucose polymerization of 3 to 150 is reacted with one or more derivatives of branched fatty acids as well as with, where appropriate, one or more derivatives of other fatty acids, in the proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above.

2) The dextrin having an average degree of polymerization of glucose from 3 to 150 is reacted in a first step, with one or more derivatives of branched fatty acids, then in a second step, with one or more derivatives of a or more of the other fatty acids, in the proportions required to obtain the dextrin ester described above. Usually, halides, acid anhydrides, are used as derivatives of fatty acids. More particularly, in either of the above two options, the dextrin is dispersed in a reaction solvent, and a catalyst is added thereto, if necessary. This mixture is reacted by adding the aforementioned fatty acid derivative(s), preferably halides.

In process 1), these derivatives are mixed and added simultaneously to the reaction mixture, and in process 2) the derivatives are introduced successively. By way of usual solvent, mention may be made of dimethylformamide, formamide, acetamide, ketones, aromatic compounds such as benzene, toluene, xylene, dioxane, or mixtures thereof. Suitable catalysts are usually chosen from tertiary amine compounds such as pyridine, picoline. The reaction temperature is generally chosen according to the starting derivatives of the fatty acid(s). It is generally between 0 and 100°C. The dextrin esters are then purified in the usual way.

According to a particular embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is a dextrin ester, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose from 3 to 150, and for which the fatty acid(s) comprise(s) from 50% to 100% by moles, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more saturated branched fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by mole, based of the total quantity of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of saturated linear fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of the dextrin by the fatty acid(s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

Such dextrin esters are described in particular in European application EP 2537865.

According to a preferred embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

Among the compounds marketed, mention may be made of the dextrin isostearate UNIFILMA HVY marketed by the company Chiba Flour Milling Co.

According to one embodiment, the branched dextrin ester is present in the composition in a content ranging from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

More particularly, the percentage of branched dextrin ester is between 10% and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly between 12% and 18% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Fat-soluble polymer

The composition of the invention also advantageously comprises a fat-soluble polymer, chosen from the group consisting of:
(i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,
(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and

(iii) mixtures thereof.

The fat-soluble polymer can be a polymer intended to provide hold and/or to form a film (so-called 'film-forming' polymer).

Film-forming polymer means a polymer capable of forming a continuous film on a support. In the text, the word polymer can denote a homopolymer or a copolymer. By "copolymer" is meant a polymer comprising at least two monomers or two different blocks, which may be of the same chemical family but of different structure. Liposoluble film-forming polymer means a film-forming polymer dissolved in the liquid fatty phase, for example in the phenyl silicone oil according to the invention.

The film-forming polymer can be of natural or synthetic origin.

The acrylate polymers used in the present invention play the role of holding polymers and the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms play the role of film-forming polymers.

Acrylate polymers

The acrylate polymers which can be used in the composition of the invention are advantageously chosen from:

• silicone acrylate polymers, in particular acrylate/dimethicone copolymers, and in particular acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in cyclopentasiloxane (such as for example KP-545 from Shin-Etsu), acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in methyl trimethicone (such as for example KP-549 and KP-579 from Shin-Etsu), and acrylate/dimethicone copolymers in isododecane (such as for example KP-550 from Shin-Etsu); acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers, and in particular acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in dimethicone (such as for example FA-4003 DM from Dow ^Corning® ), acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymers in isododecane (such as example FA-4004 ID from Dow ^Corning® ), Acrylates/stearyl acrylate/dimethicone methacrylate copolymers such as KP-561P from Shin Etsu);
• acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms, in particular C10-C30 acrylate polymers with the INCI name poly C10-30 alkyl acrylates, such as that marketed under the name TEGO SP 13-1 by the company AIR PRODUCTS and
• copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide, in particular copolymers of acrylates and t-butylacrylamides, such as that marketed under the name ULTRAHOLD 8 or ULTRAHOLD STRONG (INCI: “Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide copolymer) by the company BASF . According to a particular mode, the copolymer of acrylate and acrylamide is pre-dispersed in an oil to facilitate its integration into the oily phase of the composition, in particular a hydrogenated polyisobutene.

The acrylate polymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 1 to 10% by weight, in particular 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene

The vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene copolymers which can be used in the composition of the invention comprise an alkene chain of at least 18 carbon atoms, in particular a C18-C30 alkene chain, such as VP/eicosene copolymers , VP/triacontanyl, VP/styrene….

Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) comprising a linear C20-C30 alkene chain will preferably be used, such as VP/eicosene marketed under the name ANTARON V 220 F (INCI: eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer) by the company ASHLAND, triacontanyl PVP marketed under the name UNIMER U-6 by the company INDUCHEM.

The VP and alkene copolymers used in the composition of the invention are present in a content ranging from 8 to 25% by weight, in particular 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise an acrylate polymer as defined above and a copolymer of VP and of C18-C30 alkene as described above.

According to a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between the acrylate polymer and the copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene (R=% acrylate polymer/% copolymer of VP and C18-C30 alkene) will range from 1 to 5 , especially from 2 to 4.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention will comprise a fat-soluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.

The total content of fat-soluble film-forming polymers in the composition of the invention may range from 8 to 25% by weight, in particular from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The % of fat-soluble film-forming polymer is expressed as % by weight of active material (a.i.) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least the following ingredients:
trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane

octyldodecanol

dextrin isostearate

an acrylate/t-butylacrylamide copolymer

and advantageously a VP/eiosene copolymer.

Additional ingredients

The fatty phase of the composition of the invention can be stabilized and/or structured by a texturizing agent, in particular a wax, a pasty fatty substance, a gelling agent or a mixture thereof.

According to one embodiment, the composition of the invention does not comprise any texturizing agent, in particular does not comprise wax or pasty fatty substances.

According to another embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a texturizing agent in a content ranging from 0.1 to 3%, in particular from 0.5 to 2.5%, and preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Raincoats

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention will also comprise at least one wax, making it possible to modify the texture of the system without disturbing the result of hold and shine. According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a content of wax(es) less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

By wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a compound which is solid at 25° C. and which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid state change and a melting temperature above 30° C., preferably above 45° C.

Mention may be made of natural waxes (sunflower wax, berry wax), microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes, ozokerite, carnauba wax, beeswax, products comprising a mixture polyethylene and alcohols containing 20 to 50 carbon atoms, silicone waxes in particular alkyl dimethicones, C20-C40 alkyl stearates, waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of vegetable oils having linear or branched chains in C8-C32 such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with a fatty alcohol, candelilla wax, copolymers of maleic anhydride and alpha-olefin, the waxes obtained by metallocene catalysis and lanolin wax.

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one candelilla wax.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a wax content ranging from 0.1% to 3%, for example from 0.5 to 2.5%, and preferably from 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Thus the invention relates, according to a particular and preferred embodiment, to a cosmetic composition comprising from 0.5 to 2.5% by weight of waxes relative to the total weight of said composition.

Pasty fatty substances

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may comprise a pasty fatty substance.

The term “pasty fatty compound” or “pasty compound” or “pasty fatty substance” denotes a non-crystalline fatty compound comprising, at a temperature of 25° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The pasty compound is, for example, chosen from the group consisting of fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, shea butter, cocoa butter, mango oil or butter, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the pasty compound is chosen from fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as caprylic/capric/myristic/stearic triglyceride.

A composition according to the invention may comprise a content of pasty compounds ranging from 0.1% to 5%, for example 0.1% to 3% by weight, from 0.5% to 2.5% by weight, or even 1 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention further comprises an additional ingredient chosen from oils, fillers, dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular mode, the composition of the invention also comprises an additional ingredient chosen from additional oils, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers, gelling agents, coloring materials, and mixtures thereof.

Other additional oils

The invention may also comprise other silicone or hydrocarbon oils, which are added to provide lightness and hold to the film deposited on the skin, and which are in particular intended to be eliminated by evaporation at the time of application. application and formation of the film on the lips.

These oils may in particular be chosen from dimethicones of 0.5 to 6 cst, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, linear C ₉ -C ₁₅ alkanes, branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the oil is chosen from branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, in particular it is isododecane, or linear C ₉ -C ₁₃ alkanes.

By way of example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of mixtures of den-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) such as those sold under the name CETIOL by the company BASF and mixtures of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) such than those sold under the name VEGELIGHT by the company GRANT INDUSTRIES as well as their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment, these oils may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, in particular from 4 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Expenses

In addition, the composition of the invention may advantageously comprise fillers to reduce the feeling of stickiness likely to appear gradually on the lips due to the presence of the branched ester of dextrin.

Within the meaning of the invention, by "fillers" is meant particles of any shape, colorless or white, of mineral or organic, natural or synthetic nature, which are in a form (platelet, spherical or oblong), insoluble and dispersed in the middle of the composition. The fillers are chosen in particular from silicas, micas, of natural or synthetic origin, kaolin, zinc and titanium oxides; calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate; zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; synthetic polymer powders, such as polyethylene, polyesters, polyamides (for example nylon); polyacrylic or polymethacrylic acid powders, silicone or silicone resin powders; cellulose powders; mineral powders such as spherical silica; spherical titanium dioxides; glass and ceramic beads; powders of organic materials of natural origin such as corn, wheat or rice starches, crosslinked or not, and mixtures thereof.

As preferred fillers, mention may in particular be made of cellulose powders, silicone powders, in particular powders with the INCI name silicon dioxide, and mixtures thereof.

The fillers may be present in a content ranging from 2 to 20%, in particular from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

A composition of the invention is in particular a makeup composition comprising at least one dyestuff.

Dyestuffs

By dyestuff is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in an appropriate cosmetic medium.

A dyestuff can be chosen from dyestuffs that are water-soluble or not, fat-soluble or not, organic or inorganic, materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the dyestuff(s) are chosen in particular from mineral pigments, organic pigments, and mixtures thereof.

By “pigments” is meant white or colored, mineral or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and/or opacify the resulting deposit. Mention may be made of inorganic pigments, organic pigments, and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on inorganic and/or organic materials).

Among the “mineral pigments ” , mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide (rutile or anatase), optionally surface-treated; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides; manganese violet; ultramarine blue chromium oxide hydrated chromium oxide and ferric blue.

For compositions intended for the lips, mention may be made, by way of examples, of titanium dioxide; black, yellow, red and brown iron oxides and manganese violet.

Examples of "organic pigments" include D & C red No. 19 pigments; D & C red No. 9; D&C Red No. 22; D&C Red No. 21; D&C Red No. 28; D&C Yellow No. 6; D & C Orange No. 4; D & C Orange No. 5; D & C Red No. 27; D & C red No. 13; D&C Red No. 7; D&C Red No. 6; D&C Yellow No. 5; D&C Red No. 36;; D&C Red No. 33; D & C Orange No. 10; D & C yellow No. 6; ; D&C Red No. 30; D&C red No. 3; D&C Blue 1; carbon black and cochineal carmine-based lakes.

In particular, the dyestuff(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The following description illustrates the two alternative embodiments of implementation of the invention to take account of the two immiscible oily phases.

Device for packaging and dispensing a composition of the invention

The invention relates to a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least:
- a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)

(I)

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

y varies between 1 and 1000, and

z varies between 1 and 1000,
- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising:
a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and
a branched ester of dextrin.

Phases A and B are mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device, forming a homogeneous cosmetic composition within the meaning of the invention for application to keratin materials.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B may also comprise a second phenyl silicone oil distinct from the first and having a formula (II)

in which the groups R independently of each other represent a methyl or a phenyl, at least three of them, or even at least four of them, or even at least five of them being a phenyl.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, phase A comprises, as second phenyl silicone oil, a compound of formula (III)

in which Me represents a methyl and Ph represents a phenyl, otherwise called trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane.

According to a particular embodiment, phases A and B are anhydrous phases.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the branched dextrin ester in phase B is a dextrin ester, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose from 3 to 150, and for which the fatty acid(s) comprise from 50% to 100% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by mole, based on the total quantity of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, fatty acids linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of the dextrin by the fatty acid or acids is from 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

In particular, the branched dextrin ester in phase B is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably branched ester of dextrin is dextrin isostearate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol in phase B is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, palmitic alcohol , oleyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol.

According to a particular mode of the invention, phases A and/or B, in particular phase B, also comprise an additional ingredient chosen from oils, fat-soluble film-forming polymers, fillers, gelling agents, coloring materials, and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B also comprises another additional oil.

According to one particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a fat-soluble film-forming polymer.

According to one particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a wax and/or a pasty fatty substance.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a filler.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises a gelling agent.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B further comprises dyestuffs.

The definitions of these ingredients are described above.

Preferably, the liposoluble film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of

(i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,
(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and

(iii) mixtures thereof.

The definitions of these polymers are described above.

According to a preferred embodiment, phase B of the invention will comprise a fat-soluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the phases A and B mixed at the outlet of the dispensing device (eg: nozzle which mixes the two phases) form a homogeneous make-up composition, in particular a lip lacquer, a fluid gloss, a lipstick fluid lips, a lip ink, a lip balm, a gloss, a liquid foundation, a fluid eye shadow, a liquid blusher, a fluid mascara, a fluid eye liner, a nail polish.

Cosmetic composition to be mixed by mechanical action before use

The invention also relates to an inhomogeneous or biphasic liquid cosmetic composition comprising

a) a first phase A′ comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)

(I)

in which

Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3

y preferably varies between 1 and 1000, and

z varies between 1 and 1000, and
b) a second phase B′, visually distinct from the first phase A′, comprising a C8-C30 fatty alcohol incompatible with the phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) of phase A′, and a branched dextrin ester.

The inhomogeneous or biphasic liquid composition is intended to be mixed extemporaneously by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before application to the keratin materials, in particular the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips.

The definitions of the various compounds and embodiments are described above. The paragraphs below report some of them, without being limiting in relation to the entirety of the preceding description.

According to a particular mode, the composition is anhydrous. Preferably, the composition is a biphasic composition, the two phases of which are separated into visually distinct strata.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the branched ester of dextrin in phase B′ is a dextrin ester, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose from 3 to 150, and for which the acid or acids fatty acids include from 50% to 100% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more saturated branched fatty acids having from 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less 50% by mole, based on the total quantity of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids chosen from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, the linear or branched unsaturated fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and cyclic, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of the dextrin by the fatty acid(s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose.

In particular, the branched dextrin ester in phase B′ is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably l branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B′ also comprises another additional oil.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B′ also comprises a fat-soluble film-forming polymer.

According to a particular embodiment, phase B′ also comprises a wax and/or a pasty fatty substance.

According to a particular mode, phase B′ further comprises a filler.

According to a particular mode, phase B′ also comprises a gelling agent.

According to a particular mode, phase B′ also comprises coloring materials.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the C8-C30 fatty alcohol in phase B′ is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, alcohol palmitic alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol , octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, phase B′ also comprises an additional ingredient chosen from oils, fat-soluble film-forming polymers, fillers, gelling agents, dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof.

The definitions of these ingredients are described above.

Preferably, the liposoluble film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of

(i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,
(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and

(iii) mixtures thereof.

The definitions of these polymers are described previously.

According to a preferred embodiment, phase B' of the invention will comprise a fat-soluble film-forming polymer chosen from a copolymer of acrylates and acrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 20 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from a copolymer of acrylate and t-butylacrylamide and a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) eicosene, and preferably a mixture thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention, mixed extemporaneously by a mechanical action for re-homogenization, forms a make-up composition, in particular a fluid lipstick, a lip ink, a lip balm, a gloss, liquid foundation, fluid eyeshadow, liquid blush, fluid mascara, fluid eyeliner, nail polish.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention (final composition resulting from the mixture at the outlet of the dispensing device or from the extemporaneous mixture by mechanical action) is an anhydrous composition.

By “anhydrous” is meant in particular that the water is preferably not deliberately added to the compositions but may be present in trace form in the various compounds used in the compositions. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or even is completely free of water.

The composition of the invention is a makeup and/or care composition for keratin materials, in particular a makeup and/or care composition for the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips.

As make-up composition for the skin, mention may in particular be made of a liquid foundation, a liquid eye shadow, a liquid blusher, an eye liner, a mascara.

As make-up composition for the lips, mention may in particular be made of a liquid lipstick, a lip lacquer, a lip balm, a lip ink, a gloss.

According to a particular and preferred mode, it will be a liquid makeup composition for the lips, in particular a liquid lipstick, a lip lacquer, or a lip ink.

Cosmetic process

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition such than distributed by the cosmetic device defined in the invention, or of a composition with an inhomogeneous or biphasic appearance as defined in the invention, after extemporaneous mixing of the latter by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before application on keratin materials.

The mixing of the non-homogeneous composition is carried out by a mechanical action, either by manual agitation of the conditioning unit in which the composition is placed, or by the use of an instrument making it possible to apply a mechanical action to the composition to re-homogenize it, preferably a spatula, a brush or an applicator.

The composition applied to the lips is preferably a liquid makeup composition for the lips, in particular a fluid lipstick, a lip ink, a lip balm, or a gloss.

The process according to the invention is in particular a process for making up the lips, intended to deposit on said lips a glossy and long-lasting film of shine and color.

The invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples. The % are expressed in % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1: Selection of an oil to combine with phenyl silicone oil e

1.1 Behavior of binary mixtures

The Applicant evaluated the ability of a phenyl silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) to mix or not with various compounds and hydrocarbon or silicone oils.

A possible effect of separation into several layers (otherwise called 'demixing') of a binary mixture of immiscible oils is observed. For this, the mixture of the two compounds or oils (BELSIL PDM1000+Oil X) is heated at 80° C. for 15 minutes with stirring. The mixture is packaged in a transparent glass bottle. The mixture is observed at T0 then after 24 hours at rest:

The results are shown in Table 3 below:

BINARY MIXTURES: OIL X% / (100-X)% BELSIL PDM-1000)

X INCI 25% X in Binary Mix 75% X in the Binary Mix Lusplan DD-DA 7 Dimer dilinoleyl Dimer dilinoleate ++ ++ Hailucent ISDA MB Polyglyceryl-2-Isostearate / Dimer dilinoleate copolymer ++ ++ PH-1555 HRI Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane 0 ++ Mirasil C-DPDM Polydimethyldiphenylpolysiloxane
+ Dimethicone/vinyl Dimethicone crosspolymer + + PTIS Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate ++ ++ Floralyn New Process Methyl Hydrogenated Rosinate 0 0 Salacos 6318V Trimethylolpropane Triisostearate + + Salacos 43V Polyglyceryl-2-Triisostearate + + Salacos 222 Diisostearyl Malate 0 ++ Salacos 182 V Sorbitan Sesquiisostearate ++ ++ Phenyltrimethicone 30 CPS Phenyltrimethicone 0 0 Isofol 20 Octyldodecanol ++ ++ Silshine 151 Phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate 0 ++ BHA-free codex castor oil Castor oil ++ ++ KF-54HV Diphenyl Dimethicone ++ ++ KF-56A Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone 0 0

LEGEND :

0 a transparent phase

+ a cloudy phase

++ two-phase

For test 1.2, only the oils for which a demixing (separation) effect is observed with phenyl silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) are retained for their 'gloss' effect and their 'non-transfer' effect is then evaluated. ' of color.

1.2 Evaluation of the demixing and non-transfer effect

The selected oils are used for the preparation of a colored test formula comprising the phenyl silicone oil and additionally pigments.

The formula has the following composition (% by weight)

INCI % in weight OIL X 58.5 Phenyl silicone oil (BELSIL PDM-1000) 37.5 Pigments 4.0

The above test formula is packaged in a vial. The formula is out of phase at rest due to the immiscibility of the oils. It must therefore be shaken before the application step on the lips.

The behavior of the test formula when it is applied to the lips is evaluated in vivo on a panel of experts, namely the appearance of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film and the ability of this film to not transfer the color ('no transfer' effect):

X INCI Assessment Lusplan DD-DA 7 Dimer dilinoleyl Dimer dilinoleate X Hailucent ISDA MB Polyglyceryl-2-Isostearate / Dimer dilinoleate copolymer X PTIS Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate X Salacos 182 V Sorbitant Sesquiisostearate X Isofol 20 Octyldodecanol OK BHA-free codex castor oil Castor oil X KF-54HV Diphenyl Dimethicone X

Evaluation of the effect of oil separation and non-transfer of the color of the film.

The demixing effect is observed on the lips after application of the film, and the non-transfer of the color evaluated by applying a medium (eg: a finger or a paper tissue such as a handkerchief, etc.) to the lips several times a few minutes apart.

It is surprisingly noted that octyldodecanol, a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, is the only oil among those tested which allows the formation of a transparent film on the surface of the colored film after application (gloss effect), without transfer of the color (non transfer effect).

Example 2: Selection of film-forming agents

The Applicant has tested several film-forming agents (resins or polymers) to identify those which could form a homogeneous colored film, while retaining the phenomenon of demixing linked to the presence of immiscible oils. By 'homogeneous film', we mean a film which spreads evenly on the lips and presents a finish with a smooth appearance and a homogeneous color, without surface or color irregularities.

2.1 Ability to form a homogeneous film

A test formula is prepared according to Table 4 below, comprising a film-forming agent and binary mixture selected in Example 1.

Ingredients % in weight Film forming agent X 12 Octyldodecanol (ISOFOL 20) 48 Phenyl silicone oil (BELSIL PDM 1000) 40

The resulting formula is applied to the lips. The homogeneity of the film is evaluated once the formula has been applied to the lips (table 5)

X INCI Assessment Unifilma HVY Dextrin Isostearate ++ Silicon gum Silicon gum 0 TechnolSD Phytosterols ++ Ethocel std 7 Premium Ethylcellulose + Candelilla Resin E-2 Euphorbia Cerifera Extract (resin) ++ Kahlresin 6723 Shorea Robiusta Resin / Octyldodecanol ++

LEGEND

++ Homogeneous film

+ Inhomogeneous film

1. No film formed

Film-forming agents which produce a homogeneous film on the lips were selected for test 2.2.

2.2 Evaluation of the demixing and non-transfer effect

The behavior of another test formula colored with pigments as defined in Table 6, comprising a film-forming agent selected in 2.1, is again evaluated on a panel of experts.

Ingredients % in weight Film forming agent X 46.7 Octyldodecanol (ISOFOL 20) 11.8 Phenyl silicone oil (BELSIL PDM 1000) 37.5 Pigments 4

The above formula is shaken if necessary, before application to the lips.

Using the same method as in 1.2, the behavior of the composition colored with film-forming agent is evaluated (Table 6). The results of the color demixing and non-transfer evaluation are shown in Table 7 below:

X INCI Assessment Unifilma HVY Dextrin Isostearate OK TechnolSD Phytosterols X Candelilla Resin E-2 Euphorbia Cerifera Extract (resin) X Kahlresin 6723 Shorea Robiusta Resin / Octyldodecanol X

It emerges from this study that only dextrin isostearate (branched ester of dextrin) makes it possible to obtain the desired properties of shine, non-transfer of color and homogeneity of the make-up film.

Example 3: Selection of holding polymers

At the end of Examples 1 and 2 above, it is sought to improve the staying power of the colored film obtained using the composition of the invention, while maintaining a gloss effect linked to the phenomenon of demixing noted above. above.

A composition is prepared according to the formula (Table 8), which contains both the film-forming agent and the oil selected in the previous examples:

Description % by weight Octyldodecanol (ISOFOL 20) 13.5 Dextrin Isostearate (UNIFILMA HVY) 35 HOLD POLYMER X 10 Pigments 4 Phenyl silicone oil (BELSIL PDM-1000) 37.5

The pigments are ground in the presence of octyldodecanol. This pigmentary phase is heated to 95°C

Separately, the dextrin isostearate is dispersed in octyldodecanol at 95°C using a Rayneri. After homogenization, the phenyl silicone oil is added.

The two phases prepared previously are mixed and homogenized while hot.

The holding polymer X is added to the composition obtained in the previous step.

The composition is poured into a suitable conditioning unit, then cooled.

The properties of the various compositions prepared are evaluated using the protocol below:

In the present case, the liquid composition is stirred manually before its use for making up the lips. The composition is applied to the lips with an applicator or a brush.

a– Evaluation at T0

One waits 5 minutes after depositing the film of the composition on the lips, then one applies the finger lightly to the lips to evaluate the stickiness of the film and to check that the colored film does not transfer. A photo of the made-up lips is taken to visually evaluate the shine at T0.

b– Evaluation at T12h

The finger is lightly applied to the lips to assess the stickiness and check that the colored film does not transfer at T2h.

A photo of the made-up lips is taken to evaluate the shine and compare it with that observed at T0.

The results are shown in Table 9 below:

NAME INCI Demixing and non-transfer effect Evaluation Sticky and shiny Comments KP 561-P Acrylates/Stearyl Acrylate/ Dimethicone methacrylate copolymer 2 0 Medium gloss film Unimer U-6 Triacontanyl PVP 1 OM-4 Acrylates copolymer / Isoparaffin 0 Regalite R1100 Hydrogenated styrene / Methyl styrene / Indene copolymer 2 - low gloss film ULTRAHOLD 8 in oil Acrylates/ t-Butylacrylamide copolymer and hydrogenated polyisobutene 2 + Very glossy film KOBOGUARD HRPC Hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene and polyethylene
and copernicia cerifera (carnauba) wax and tocopherol 1 UNIMER U-1946 VP/ Hexadecene copolymer and octydodecanol 1 KF-7312J Trimethylsiloxysilicate and cyclopentasiloxane 1 ANTARON V 220 F Eicosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer 2 + non sticky film TEGO SP 13-1 poly C10-30 alkyl acrylate 2 0 Medium gloss film ANTARON V 216 Poly(vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene) 0 KP-550 Isododecane (and) Acrylates / Dimethicone copolymer 1

LEGEND

Effect (demixing and non-transfer)

OK effect: 2

Insufficient performance: 1

No effect: 0

Rating (sticky and shiny) for formulas with demixing effect and non-satisfactory transfer (note 2):

- insufficient

0 average

+ satisfying

It is noted that the strength polymers tested do not all exhibit the same behavior when they are combined in a composition of the invention.

A certain number of them do not make it possible to obtain the effect of the invention, which consists in the appearance of a transparent film on the surface of the applied film providing shine and non-transfer of the color.

There are disparities in the performance evaluated on a panel of experts, in terms of stickiness, shine and hold.

To obtain optimum performance in a composition of the invention, an eiosene vinylpyrrolidone copolymer and/or an acrylates/t-butylacrylamide copolymer will be used.

The invention will be illustrated in the following non-limiting formulations. Unless otherwise indicated, the % are expressed as % by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of said composition.

Example 4: Compositions according to the invention

The following compositions are illustrated with holding polymers but it is also possible to prepare compositions without holding polymer (qs on oils, resin and waxes) and obtain completely acceptable gloss and non-transfer performances.

The use of hold polymers further improves the hold of said compositions.

The compositions are prepared according to the following procedure:

Introduce the resin (branched dextrin ester) and the holding polymer (acrylate/butyl acrylamide copolymer) into a portion of the octyldodecanol at 95° C. with stirring.

After homogenization, add the film former (VP/eicosene copolymer) and stir for 30 min.

Add the waxes and stir for 20 min.

Grind the pigments in the remaining octyldoddecanol.

Add this pigment phase to the rest of the formula and mix well

Add the phenyl silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) to the preparation under hot stirring for at least 20-30 min.

Add the oils and semi-solid fats and stir for 15 minutes

Then add the pulverulent fillers, stir for 20-30 min.

Finally add the isododecane and leave to homogenize for a maximum of 2 minutes then condition.

6-1 Liquid composition for the lips packaged in a device with two compartments

The colored phase containing all the ingredients except the phenyl silicone oil is prepared and packaged in the reservoir (compartment) of a device (or pack) with two compartments (reservoirs).

The phenyl silicone oil (Belsil PDM1000) is packaged in the other reservoir of the pack.

Colored phase of the composition

Phase Compounds (INCI name) % in weight AT Octyldodecanol 3.4 Dextrin isostearate (Unifilma HVY) 17.5 Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide copolymer and hydrogenated polyisobutene (Ultrahold 8 and hydrogenated polyisobutene) 10.5 B VP/eicosene copolymer (Antaron V 220 F) 17.5 VS Pigments 4 Octyldodecanol 5.5 D Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI) 17 E Cellulose 6% Silica 6% F Isododecane Qsp 100%

At the device outlet, the distributed composition is in the form of a homogeneous composition.

Applied to the lips, the composition leaves a shiny film with improved hold during the day, while remaining comfortable.

6-2 Liquid composition for lips to be mixed before use

Phase Compounds (INCI name) % in weight AT Octyldodecanol 3.4 Dextrin isostearate (Unifilma HVY) 17.5 Acrylates/t-Butylacrylamide copolymer and hydrogenated polyisobutene (Ultrahold 8 and hydrogenated polyisobutene) 10.5 B2 VP/eicosene copolymer (Antaron V 220 F) 17.5 VS Pigments 4 Octyldodecanol 5.5 D1 Trimethyl siloxyphenyl dimethicone (Belsil PDM1000) 17 D2 Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane (Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI) 17 E Cellulose 6 Silica 6 F Isododecane Qsp 100

The composition has an inhomogeneous macroscopic appearance and is mixed with a brush before application to the lips.

Applied to the lips, the composition leaves a shiny film with improved hold during the day, while remaining comfortable.

Claims (11)

Device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition comprising at least:
- a first compartment containing a liquid phase A comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)
(I)
in which
Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3
y varies between 1 and 1000, and
z varies between 1 and 1000, and
- a second compartment containing a liquid phase B comprising:
a C8-C30 fatty alcohol, and
a branched ester of dextrin. Cosmetic device according to Claim 1, characterized in that phases A and B are anhydrous phases. Cosmetic device according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, characterized in that the branched ester of dextrin in phase B is a dextrin ester, for which the dextrin has an average degree of polymerization of glucose of 3 to 150, and for wherein the fatty acid(s) comprises from 50% to 100% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more saturated branched fatty acids having 4 to 26 carbon atoms, and from 0% to less than 50% by mole, based on the total amount of fatty acid(s), of one or more other fatty acids selected from the group consisting of linear saturated fatty acids having from 2 to 22 carbon atoms, unsaturated linear or branched fatty acids, having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and saturated or unsaturated cyclic fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, and for which the degree of substitution of dextrin by the fatty acid(s) is 1.0 to 3.0 per unit of glucose. Cosmetic device according to Claim 3, characterized in that the branched ester of dextrin in phase B is chosen from dextrin isostearate, dextrin isoarachidate, dextrin isopalmitate, dextrin isononanoate, as well as mixtures thereof, and preferably the branched dextrin ester is dextrin isostearate. Cosmetic device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C8-C30 fatty alcohol in composition B is chosen from the group consisting of lauryl alcohol, myristic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol , palmitic alcohol, oleic alcohol, behenic alcohol, erucic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol and mixtures thereof, and is preferably octyldodecanol. Cosmetic device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that phase B also comprises an additional ingredient chosen from additional oils, liposoluble film-forming polymers, waxes, pasty fatty substances, fillers, gelling agents, dyestuffs, and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic device according to Claim 6, characterized in that the fat-soluble film-forming polymer is chosen from the group consisting of
(i) acrylate polymers chosen from the group consisting of silicone acrylate polymers, acrylate polymers comprising an alkyl chain of at least 10 carbon atoms and copolymers of acrylates and acrylamide,
(ii) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and alkene comprising at least 18 carbon atoms, and
(iii) mixtures thereof. Cosmetic device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mixed phases A and B form a homogeneous make-up composition, in particular a fluid lipstick, a lip ink, a lip balm, a gloss, a liquid foundation, fluid eyeshadow, liquid blush, fluid mascara, fluid eyeliner, nail polish. Inhomogeneous or biphasic liquid cosmetic composition comprising
a) a first phase A' comprising a phenyl silicone oil of formula (I)
(I)
in which
Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents a group - OSiMe3
y varies between 1 and 1000, and
z varies between 1 and 1000, and
b) a second phase B′ comprising a C8-C30 fatty alcohol incompatible with the phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) of phase A′, and a branched dextrin ester. Cosmetic process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising the application to said keratin materials, in particular to the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, of a composition as dispensed by the cosmetic device defined in any one of Claims 1 to 8, or of a composition with an inhomogeneous or biphasic appearance as defined in Claim 9 after mixing the latter by a mechanical action for re-homogenization before application to the said keratin materials . Cosmetic process according to Claim 10, characterized in that the mixing of the non-homogeneous composition is carried out by manual stirring or using a brush, a spatula or an applicator.