FR3102929A1 - Composition containing DHA - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, dihydroxyacetone DHA and at least: a) a sugar chosen from a C4-C9 mono- or disaccharide polyol, a pentose, and their mixture, b) an antioxidant chosen from tocopherol derivatives, sulphite salts, gallic acid derivatives, or alternatively a UV filter chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, or mixtures thereof , c) benzaldehyde, andd) optionally an additional perfuming compound.

Description

Composition containing DHA

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising DHA and an odor stabilizing complex.

It is known from the prior art to use DHA (1,3 dihydroxyacetone) as a skin coloring agent (otherwise called ‘self-tanning agent’) in cosmetic skin care products. DHA can also be found in sun cosmetics, for use in the first days of exposure to UV radiation, in order to obtain a tanned complexion before the effects of tanning appear. Applied to the skin, in particular to the face and/or body, DHA makes it possible to obtain a tanning or browning effect similar in appearance to that which can result from prolonged exposure to the sun (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp. This compound acts by binding to the free amine functions of the skin, in particular the amino acids, peptides and proteins of the skin, according to the Maillard reaction (non-enzymatic reaction between a sugar and an amine) and the coloring appears after a few hours.

However, this compound is particularly unstable and also generates an unpleasant odor. This odor developed on the skin is due to the by-products of the Maillard reaction occurring between DHA and amino acids in the skin; these are in particular molecules of the pyrazine type and in particular 2,6 dimethylpyrazine. DHA is also known to be very unstable over time, which can lead to the development of a rancid, oxidized smell.

There therefore remains the need to develop cosmetic compositions containing DHA but not exhibiting the effects of the compositions of the prior art, and in particular from the olfactory point of view.

The Applicant has developed a particular combination of ingredients, otherwise known as a 'DHA stabilizing complex', capable of stabilizing the pyrazine odor produced by DHA on contact with the skin, and of stabilizing the DHA over time. This combination comprises at least one sugar chosen from a pentose, a C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol and mixtures thereof, at least one antioxidant and/or a UV screening agent, and benzaldehyde. The combination developed by the Applicant thus makes it possible to have a cosmetic composition containing DHA which is olfactorily satisfactory both on application and over time.

A first aspect of the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and at least:
a) a sugar chosen from a C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol, a pentose, and a mixture thereof,
b) an antioxidant chosen from tocopherol derivatives, sulphite salts, gallic acid derivatives, or alternatively a UV filter chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, or their mixtures,
c) benzaldehyde, and
d) optionally an additional perfuming compound.

Another subject of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for artificially tanning and/or browning the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition according to the invention.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and at least:
a) a sugar chosen from a C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol, a pentose, and a mixture thereof,
b) an antioxidant chosen from tocopherol derivatives, sulphite salts, gallic acid derivatives, or alternatively a UV filter chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, or their mixtures,
c) benzaldehyde, and
d) optionally an additional perfuming compound.

DHA

DHA, dihydroxyacetone or 1,3-dihydroxyacetone will be referred to indiscriminately in the description.

1,3 DIHYDROXYACETONE (DHA) is a chemical molecule responsible for coloring the skin by Maillard reaction between it and the amino acids contained in the horny layer of the skin.

According to a particular embodiment, the DHA is present in the composition of the invention in a content of at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably in a content ranging from 4 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Odor stabilizing complex

Sugar

The composition of the invention comprises at least one sugar chosen from a C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol, a pentose, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol is chosen from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, lactitol, maltitol, preferably sorbitol.

According to a particular embodiment, the pentose is an aldopentose chosen from the group consisting of ribose, arabinose, xylose, preferably D-xylose, and mixtures thereof.

The total content of sugar(s) as defined above in the composition of the invention will generally range from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. .

According to a particular embodiment, the C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol, in particular sorbitol, is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, aldopentose, in particular D-xylose, is present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Antioxidant and UV filters

The composition of the invention comprises an antioxidant chosen from tocopherol derivatives, sulphite salts, gallic acid derivatives or alternatively a UV screening agent chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, derivatives of salicylic acid, or mixtures thereof.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention comprises at least one antioxidant chosen from derivatives of tocopherols, salts of sulphites, derivatives of gallic acid and mixtures thereof.

Antioxidants

By “tocopherol derivatives” is meant according to the invention tocopherol esters such as tocopherol succinate, tocopherol acetate, and preferably tocopherol acetate.

By “sulphite salts” is meant in particular salts chosen from calcium, magnesium, potassium, and sodium of sulphites or disulphites, in particular sodium disulphite.

By 'gallic acid derivatives', we mean in particular the salts and esters of gallic acid, called 'gallates'.

According to a particular embodiment, the total content of antioxidant(s) in the composition of the invention ranges from 0.005 to 0.1, preferably from 0.01 to 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

UV filters

Examples of 'cinammic acid derivatives' include the following compounds:

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate or Octyl Methoxicinnamate sold in particular under the trade name "PARSOL MCX ® by DSM Nutritial Products or ASHLAND

Isopropyl Methoxycinnamate

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 ® by Symrise

DEA Methoxycinnamate,

Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate,

Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate.

Examples of 'salicylic acid derivatives', in particular homosalates and salicylates, include the following compounds:

Homosalate sold as "Eusolex HMS®" by Rona/EM Industries, or as "Parsol HMS" by DSM

Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold as "NEO HELIOPAN OS®" by Symrise, or as "ESCALOL 587" by ASHLAND

Dipropylene Glycol Salicylate sold as "DIPSAL®" by SCHER,

TEA Salicylate, sold as "NEO HELIOPAN TS®" by Symrise

According to a particular embodiment, the total content of UV filter(s) chosen from cinnamic acid derivatives and salicylic acid derivatives in the composition of the invention, when they are present, will range from 1 to 20%, preferably from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention may have an SPF of 8 to 50. A person skilled in the art will adjust the nature and content of the UV filters as well as the galenic of said composition to achieve the desired SPF.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises an antioxidant chosen from tocopherol acetate, sodium disulphite, and preferably a mixture thereof.

Benzaldehyde

The composition of the invention comprises at least benzaldehyde.

The benzaldehyde content in the composition of the invention ranges from 0.00004% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Additional perfume compounds (optional)

The Applicant has shown that certain additional perfuming compounds could be added to the composition of the invention containing DHA and the “stabilizing complex” described above, to improve its smell.

As examples of perfuming compounds, mention may advantageously be made of perfuming extracts of galbanum, violet, lavender, peppermint, white thyme, rosemary, and mixtures thereof. By “fragrant extracts”, we mean in particular essential oils (otherwise called essences), concretes, and absolutes.

According to a particular mode, the additional perfuming compound, when it is present, is the essential oil of Galbanum.

The total content of additional perfuming compound(s), when present, will generally range from 0.00004% to 1% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 0.01% by weight relative to the weight composition total.

According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises DHA and at least:
a) D-xylose
b) tocopheryl acetate and sodium bisulphite,
c) benzaldehyde,
d) and optionally an additional perfuming compound.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, relative to the total weight of the composition, from 4 to 6% by weight of DHA and:
a) from 0.5 to 2% by weight of D-xylose
b) from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of tocopheryl acetate and from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight of sodium bisulfite, and
c) from 0.00004% to 1% benzaldehyde,

Galenic

The compositions of the invention may have all cosmetic forms, and in particular be in the form of creams, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, serums, and suitable for application to the skin, the lips and/or the appendages.

According to a particular mode, the cosmetic composition of the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase, and in particular a water content of at least 30%, preferably of at least 50%, more preferably of at least 60 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention generally comprises water and optionally a water-soluble solvent.

The term “water-soluble solvent ” according to the invention is understood to mean a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure). We can cite in particular:

• C1-C5 lower mono-alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol and mixtures thereof;
• C2-C8 glycols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof;
• C2-C32 polyols such as polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof,

• and their mixtures.

It may also comprise hydrophilic gelling agents, preservatives and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an oily phase.

In particular, the composition of the invention will comprise an oil content ranging from 0 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The term “oily phase” means an oil or a mixture of oils which are miscible with each other.

By “oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty substance, insoluble in water, liquid at 25° C. and atmospheric pressure.

These oils can be volatile or non-volatile, vegetable, mineral or synthetic.

An oily phase according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils, mention may in particular be made of hydrocarbon-based oils, hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, C ₁₀ -C ₄₀ synthetic ethers, C ₁₀ -C ₄₀ synthetic esters, C ₁₂ fatty alcohols -C ₂₆ , higher C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, the composition of the invention is advantageously in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, optionally gelled, of an optionally two-phase dispersion of the lotion type, of an oil-in-water or water-in-water emulsion. -oil or multiple, or aqueous gel.

According to a particular and preferred mode, the composition of the invention is a self-tanning product for the face and/or the body.

Cosmetic process

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for artificially tanning and/or browning the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined according to the invention.

According to a particular mode, the composition is applied to the skin of the face and/or of the neck, to obtain a tanned complexion.

According to another particular mode, the composition is applied to the skin of the body, in particular the legs, to obtain a tanned effect.

The composition of the invention is applied to healthy skin, that is to say skin not showing any disorders and/or skin alterations of a pathological nature.

According to one particular mode, the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for artificially tanning and/or browning the skin according to the invention comprises the application to the skin of a composition comprising DHA and at least:
a) D-xylose
b) tocopheryl acetate and sodium bisulphite,
c) benzaldehyde,
d) and optionally an additional perfuming compound.

According to one particular embodiment, the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for artificially tanning and/or browning the skin according to the invention comprises the application to the skin of a composition comprising, relative to the total weight of said composition, from 4 to 6% by weight of DHA and:
a) from 0.5 to 2% by weight of D-xylose,
b) from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of tocopheryl acetate and from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight of sodium bisulfite, and
c) from 0.00004% to 1% by weight of benzaldehyde,

The present invention will now be illustrated in the following non-limiting examples.

The % are expressed by weight of raw material relative to the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise indicated.

Examples

The effect of different cosmetic ingredients on the masking of the pyrazine odor of DHA in contact with the skin and/or on the stability of DHA over time was evaluated from an olfactory point of view, by a panel of experts trained in this type of evaluation. A score of 0 to 5 is assigned (5 meaning that the smell of DHA is not detected by the expert). The rating of 3 is the rating above which the effect is considered to be significant.

Example 1: Selection of compounds stabilizing DHA over time

The ability of antioxidants and UV filters to prevent the chemical degradation of DHA after one month in an oven at 40°C was evaluated.

Different antioxidants and alternatively several poorly water-soluble UV filters have been tested in FORMULA 1 below:

FORMULA 1 % in weight Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 5 Alcohol 6.5 Glycerin 6.4 Triethylhexanoin 4 Phenyl trimethicone 3 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 2 Polysorbate 60 0.6 Diphenyl dimethicone 0.5 Perfume 0.4 Sorbitan isostearate 0.1 lactic acid 0.1 Triethyl citrate 0.03 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 Water qsp 100

We characterize the improvement provided by antioxidants or UV filters to restore the olfactory identity of the composition, by limiting the formation of odorous oxidized compounds resulting from the chemical degradation of DHA after one month in an oven at 40°C. The panel of experts evaluates aging in relation to olfactory controls stored at 4°C and assigns a score according to a scale ranging from 0 to 5, in which 5 represents the most favorable score.

Each panelist follows the same protocol for applying the composition (same application area and same quantity applied) and the same evaluation protocol.

The results of the assessment are presented in the following Table 2:

Ingredient added to FORMULA 1 Rating given by the panel Witness (100% FORMULA 1) 2 Antioxidants + 0.05% CRYSTALLIZED ASCORBIC ACID 2 + 0.1% CRYSTALLIZED ASCORBIC ACID 2 + 0.01% SODIUM DISULPHITE 3 + 0.1% TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 3 + 0.1% PROPYL GALLATE 3 + 0.5% PROPYL GALLATE 3 + 0.5% TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 4 + 0.05% SODIUM DISULPHITE 4 + 0.05% SODIUM DISULPHITE + 0.2% TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 5 UV filters + 4% homosalate (PARSOL® HMS) 3 + 4% OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 4 + 4% 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL® 587) 4

These results show that an antioxidant chosen from sulphite salts, tocopherol derivatives, gallic acid derivatives and their mixtures, make it possible to stabilize DHA over time and thus prevent the formation of compounds producing an unpleasant odor. The same applies to UV filters chosen from cinnamic acid derivatives and salicylic acid derivatives.

Example 2: Selection of pyrazine odor stabilizing complex

In a second study, the effect of different sugars or polysaccharides to mask the pyrazine odor was investigated. The olfactory evaluation is conducted by a panel of experts trained in olfactory evaluation, according to the following method:

The sugars and polysaccharides tested were added in the following simplified formula 2 comprising (% by weight of raw material relative to the weight of the composition):

FORMULA 2 % in weight Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 5 Xantan Gum 1 Phenoxyethanol 1 Water qsp 100

The product comprising respectively the sugars and polysaccharides is applied to the skin and then an evaluation is carried out in two stages:

• at T0, an olfactory evaluation of the product is carried out before the Maillard reaction has started and
• at T6h (6 hours) after application to the skin of the formula comprising DHA, at the peak of odor release following the Maillard reaction.

At the same time, different perfuming compounds were tested and benzaldehyde proved to be the most effective.

As before, each panelist follows the same protocol for applying the composition (same application area and same quantity to apply) and the same evaluation protocol. Ratings are assigned on a scale of 0 to 5, with 5 representing the most favorable rating. Effective ingredients are those with a score greater than or equal to 3.

The results are shown in Table 4 below:

Ingredient added to FORMULA 2 Score assigned by the panel to T6h Witness (100% FORMULA 2) 1 sugar/polysaccharide + 0.05% Sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 PF) 0 + 1% Inositol from (TANOSITOL SPE) 1 + 0.5% Hydroxyethylcellulose (NATROSOL 250 M) 2 + 1% Inositol (ERYTHRULOSE) 2 + 1% D-XYLOSE 3 + 1% Sorbitol (NEOSORB 70/02) 3 Perfuming compound + 0.00014% BENZALDEHYDE 5

These results show that sorbitol (polyol) and D-xylose (aldopentose), for which a score of 3 is obtained, are effective in masking the odor released by DHA reacting with amino compounds in the skin, six hours after applying the formula.

Benzaldehyde also makes it possible to mask the unpleasant odor generated by the Maillard reaction after the application of the composition to the skin. Benzaldehyde also has the advantage of effectively masking the odor associated with the degradation of DHA over time. The double action allows benzaldehyde to effectively and surprisingly supplement the action of antioxidants and UV filters.

It is noted, however, that none of the compounds tested individually in Examples 1 and 2 above makes it possible to avoid the appearance of unpleasant odors, resulting from the instability of DHA over time and/or from the reaction of DHA with amino compounds from the skin.

As soon as the olfactory note of a composition containing DHA is degraded, the consumer turns away from these products.

Given the existing need to offer consumers self-tanning compositions whose olfactory note is not altered at any time, a composition advantageously combining:

1. A sugar chosen from a C4-C9 mono- or disaccharide polyol, an aldopentose, and mixtures thereof,
2. An antioxidant chosen from sulphite salts, tocopherol derivatives and gallic acid derivatives, or alternatively a UV filter chosen from cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, or mixtures thereof, and
3. Benzaldehyde

for masking and/or reducing the unpleasant odors associated with the presence of DHA in cosmetic compositions intended to be applied to the skin.

Example 3: Efficacy of the composition according to the invention

At least benzaldehyde (0.00014%) will thus be used in the composition of the invention, which gives the best performance (score of 5) in combination with 0.05% of SODIUM DISULPHITE + 0.2% TOCOPHERYL ACETATE + 1% D-XYLOSE.

This combination further optimizes results, as shown in Table 5 below:

Ingredients Control (FORMULA 2 alone) (% by weight) Invention (FORMULA 2 with the combination according to the invention (% by weight) FORMULA 2 100 98.3 SODIUM DISULPHITE + 0.05 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.2 D-XYLOSIS 1 + BENZALDEHYDE 0.05 DHA stability (1 month/40°C) 3 5 Inhibition of the Maillard reaction (T6h after application) 1 4.5

Thus the combination of ingredients in a composition according to the invention makes it possible to stabilize the DHA over time and to effectively mask the pyrazine odor generated by the DHA on contact with the skin.

The composition according to the invention retains a stable pleasant odor over time, and up to several hours after application of the composition to the skin.

The composition thus resolves the two disadvantages which limit the use of DHA in self-tanning cosmetic compositions.

Example 4: Cosmetic formulations

The self-tanning compositions illustrated below are prepared according to conventional methods for preparing cosmetic compositions.

Water-based self-tanning gel

Ingredients % in weight Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 5 SODIUM DISULPHITE 0.05 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.2 D-XYLOSIS 1 BENZALDEHYDE 0.00014 Xantan Gum 1 Phenoxyethanol 1 Water qsp100

According to an alternative, the D-xylose is replaced by sorbitol, at the same levels.

Applied to the skin of the face and body, this gel containing DHA gives a tanned complexion without an unpleasant odor after application.

Water-based self-tanning gel

Ingredients % in weight Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 5 SODIUM DISULPHITE 0.05 SORBITOL 1 BENZALDEHYDE 0.00014 Xantan Gum 1 Phenoxyethanol 1 Water qsp 100

According to an alternative, the sorbitol is replaced by D-xylose, at the same levels.

Applied to the skin of the face and neck, this gel containing DHA gives a tanned complexion without an unpleasant odor after application.

Self-tanning emulsion

Ingredients % in weight Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 4 Alcohol 6.5 Glycerin 6.4 Triethylhexanoin 4 Phenyl trimethicone 3 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer 2 Polysorbate 60 0.6 SODIUM DISULPHITE 0.05 TOCOPHERYL ACETATE 0.1 D-XYLOSIS 0.5 BENZALDEHYDE 0.00014 Diphenyl dimethicone 0.5 Perfume 0.4% Sorbitan isostearate 0.1 lactic acid 0.1 Triethyl citrate 0.03 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 Water qsp 100

According to an alternative, the D-xylose is replaced by sorbitol, at the same levels.

Applied to the skin of the body, this emulsion containing DHA gives the skin a tanned effect without an unpleasant odor after application.

Self-tanning sun gel

Ingredients % in weight Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) 5 2-ethylhexyl salicylate (ESCALOL® 587) 2 OCTYL METHOXYCINNAMATE 2 D-XYLOSIS 1 BENZALDEHYDE 0.00014 Xantan Gum 1 Phenoxyethanol 1 Water qsp 100

According to an alternative, the D-xylose is replaced by sorbitol, at the same levels.

Applied to the skin of the face and neck, this sun gel containing DHA protects the skin and gives the skin a tanned complexion without an unpleasant odor after application.

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and at least:
a) a sugar chosen from a C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol, a pentose, and a mixture thereof,
b) an antioxidant chosen from tocopherol derivatives, sulphite salts, gallic acid derivatives, or alternatively a UV filter chosen from the group consisting of cinnamic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, or their mixtures,
c) benzaldehyde, and
d) optionally an additional perfuming compound. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the DHA is present in a content of at least 0.5%, preferably at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably in a content ranging from 2 to 8% by weight, more preferably in a content ranging from 4 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or Claim 2, characterized in that the C ₄ -C ₉ mono- or disaccharide polyol is chosen from the group consisting of erythritol, xylitol, sorbitol, mannitol, lactitol , maltitol, preferably sorbitol, and the pentose is an aldopentose selected from the group consisting of ribose, arabinose, xylose, preferably D-xylose, and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the antioxidant is chosen from tocopherol acetate, sodium disulphite, and preferably a mixture thereof. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises DHA and at least:
a) D-xylose
b) tocopheryl acetate and sodium bisulfite, and
c) benzaldehyde, Cosmetic composition according to Claim 5, characterized in that it comprises, relative to the total weight of the said composition, from 4 to 6% by weight of DHA and:
a) from 0.5 to 2% by weight of D-xylose
b) from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of tocopheryl acetate and from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight of sodium bisulfite, and
c) from 0.00004% to 1% benzaldehyde. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one aqueous phase, and in particular a water content of at least 30%, preferably of at least 50%, more preferably at least 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution, optionally gelled, of an optionally two-phase dispersion of the lotion type, of an oil- in-water or water-in-oil or multiple, or an aqueous gel. Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is a self-tanning product for the face and/or the body. Non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment process for tanning and/or artificially browning the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.