FR2916346A1 - Perfume composition, useful e.g. as stabilizing agent of organoleptic property of composition against external aggression, comprises substance, hydroxy aminobenzophenone filter, cinnamate filter and compound comprising e.g. piperidinol - Google Patents
Perfume composition, useful e.g. as stabilizing agent of organoleptic property of composition against external aggression, comprises substance, hydroxy aminobenzophenone filter, cinnamate filter and compound comprising e.g. piperidinol Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2916346A1 FR2916346A1 FR0755152A FR0755152A FR2916346A1 FR 2916346 A1 FR2916346 A1 FR 2916346A1 FR 0755152 A FR0755152 A FR 0755152A FR 0755152 A FR0755152 A FR 0755152A FR 2916346 A1 FR2916346 A1 FR 2916346A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- weight
- composition according
- filter
- alkyl
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 123
- 239000002304 perfume Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 45
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 25
- 229940114081 cinnamate Drugs 0.000 title claims abstract description 15
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 13
- WBYWAXJHAXSJNI-VOTSOKGWSA-M trans-cinnamate Chemical compound [O-]C(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=CC=C1 WBYWAXJHAXSJNI-VOTSOKGWSA-M 0.000 title claims abstract description 11
- 239000003381 stabilizer Substances 0.000 title claims description 8
- 230000016571 aggressive behavior Effects 0.000 title claims description 5
- BOGBSWULIMKNSB-UHFFFAOYSA-N (2-amino-3-hydroxyphenyl)-phenylmethanone Chemical compound NC1=C(O)C=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 BOGBSWULIMKNSB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title abstract 3
- LKPFBGKZCCBZDK-UHFFFAOYSA-N n-hydroxypiperidine Chemical compound ON1CCCCC1 LKPFBGKZCCBZDK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title 1
- -1 piperidinol compound Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 67
- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 13
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 12
- NZZIMKJIVMHWJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N dibenzoylmethane Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)CC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 NZZIMKJIVMHWJC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 11
- 241000282414 Homo sapiens Species 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- 125000003545 alkoxy group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract description 4
- 125000000753 cycloalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract 3
- 125000000392 cycloalkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims abstract 2
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 22
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 229920002545 silicone oil Polymers 0.000 claims description 15
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 13
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N Octyl 4-methoxycinnamic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-JLHYYAGUSA-N 0.000 claims description 11
- 229960001679 octinoxate Drugs 0.000 claims description 11
- 229920001296 polysiloxane Polymers 0.000 claims description 11
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000012071 phase Substances 0.000 claims description 10
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 9
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 claims description 8
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000843 powder Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- HYWLHTOAGWUDTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N [2-(hydroxyamino)phenyl]-phenylmethanone Chemical compound ONC1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 HYWLHTOAGWUDTE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- FDATWRLUYRHCJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCCCOC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1C(=O)C1=CC=C(N(CC)CC)C=C1O FDATWRLUYRHCJE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 7
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 claims description 7
- OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Methanol Chemical compound OC OKKJLVBELUTLKV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001298 alcohols Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000975 dye Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000000443 aerosol Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003963 antioxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003380 propellant Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- TYYHDKOVFSVWON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-butyl-2-methoxy-1,3-diphenylpropane-1,3-dione Chemical compound C=1C=CC=CC=1C(=O)C(OC)(CCCC)C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 TYYHDKOVFSVWON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 206010001488 Aggression Diseases 0.000 claims description 4
- KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Isopropanol Chemical compound CC(C)O KFZMGEQAYNKOFK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- LRHPLDYGYMQRHN-UHFFFAOYSA-N N-Butanol Chemical compound CCCCO LRHPLDYGYMQRHN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- DKGAVHZHDRPRBM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tert-Butanol Chemical compound CC(C)(C)O DKGAVHZHDRPRBM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229960005193 avobenzone Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- ZXEKIIBDNHEJCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N isobutanol Chemical compound CC(C)CO ZXEKIIBDNHEJCQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 XMSXQFUHVRWGNA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 IUMSDRXLFWAGNT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- UBNYRXMKIIGMKK-RMKNXTFCSA-N amiloxate Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(=O)OCCC(C)C)C=C1 UBNYRXMKIIGMKK-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000013505 freshwater Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052757 nitrogen Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000004433 nitrogen atom Chemical group N* 0.000 claims description 3
- CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethyltrisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C CXQXSVUQTKDNFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000000999 tert-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052721 tungsten Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- GJUXFTUISAQMQE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,3-dihydroxypropyl 2-ethylhexanoate;2,3-dimethoxy-3-phenylprop-2-enoic acid Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)C(=O)OCC(O)CO.COC(C(O)=O)=C(OC)C1=CC=CC=C1 GJUXFTUISAQMQE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicon Chemical group [Si] XUIMIQQOPSSXEZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- YFCGDEUVHLPRCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N [dimethyl(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxy-dimethyl-trimethylsilyloxysilane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C YFCGDEUVHLPRCZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- PDWFFEHBPAYQGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N [dimethyl(trimethylsilyloxy)silyl]oxy-hexyl-dimethylsilane Chemical compound CCCCCC[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C PDWFFEHBPAYQGO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000013543 active substance Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000654 additive Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000000996 additive effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960002709 amiloxate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000000844 anti-bacterial effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008346 aqueous phase Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003899 bactericide agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000002051 biphasic effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- YEAYGXLRPMKZBP-KQGICBIGSA-N bis(2-hydroxyethyl)azanium;(e)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound OCCNCCO.COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(O)=O)C=C1 YEAYGXLRPMKZBP-KQGICBIGSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- CMDKPGRTAQVGFQ-RMKNXTFCSA-N cinoxate Chemical compound CCOCCOC(=O)\C=C\C1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 CMDKPGRTAQVGFQ-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229960001063 cinoxate Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006071 cream Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006185 dispersion Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- FBZANXDWQAVSTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dodecamethylpentasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C FBZANXDWQAVSTQ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940087203 dodecamethylpentasiloxane Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000004626 essential fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003349 gelling agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000077 insect repellent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000002632 lipids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002502 liposome Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- PVWXTVUZGJXFJQ-CCEZHUSRSA-N methyl (E)-4-methyl-3-phenyl-2-propan-2-ylpent-2-enoate Chemical compound COC(=O)C(\C(C)C)=C(/C(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 PVWXTVUZGJXFJQ-CCEZHUSRSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013336 milk Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000008267 milk Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 210000004080 milk Anatomy 0.000 claims description 2
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000007764 o/w emulsion Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane Chemical compound C[Si]1(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)O1 HMMGMWAXVFQUOA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002674 ointment Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N propan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCO BDERNNFJNOPAEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- XATKDVHSLQMHSY-RMKNXTFCSA-N propan-2-yl (e)-3-(4-methoxyphenyl)prop-2-enoate Chemical compound COC1=CC=C(\C=C\C(=O)OC(C)C)C=C1 XATKDVHSLQMHSY-RMKNXTFCSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 210000002966 serum Anatomy 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-(methyl-octyl-trimethylsilyloxysilyl)oxysilane Chemical compound CCCCCCCC[Si](C)(O[Si](C)(C)C)O[Si](C)(C)C SCRSFLUHMDMRFP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 claims description 2
- UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexamethyldisiloxane Chemical compound C[Si](C)(C)O[Si](C)(C)C UQEAIHBTYFGYIE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 229940073561 hexamethyldisiloxane Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 125000001997 phenyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(*)C([H])=C1[H] 0.000 abstract description 5
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 abstract description 3
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract description 3
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 abstract description 3
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 abstract description 2
- 229910052725 zinc Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract description 2
- 125000004430 oxygen atom Chemical group O* 0.000 abstract 4
- 150000001450 anions Chemical class 0.000 abstract 2
- 239000012964 benzotriazole Substances 0.000 abstract 2
- 150000001768 cations Chemical class 0.000 abstract 2
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 abstract 2
- 125000001494 2-propynyl group Chemical group [H]C#CC([H])([H])* 0.000 abstract 1
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000003342 alkenyl group Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000004453 alkoxycarbonyl group Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000956 alloy Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 229910045601 alloy Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000003710 aryl alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000001797 benzyl group Chemical group [H]C1=C([H])C([H])=C(C([H])=C1[H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000003178 carboxy group Chemical group [H]OC(*)=O 0.000 abstract 1
- 229910052802 copper Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000003055 glycidyl group Chemical group C(C1CO1)* 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000005843 halogen group Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 abstract 1
- 229910021645 metal ion Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract 1
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 abstract 1
- 230000000737 periodic effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
- 125000006839 xylylene group Chemical group 0.000 abstract 1
- 239000000047 product Substances 0.000 description 21
- 235000019198 oils Nutrition 0.000 description 19
- 235000019645 odor Nutrition 0.000 description 16
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 10
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 10
- 150000002430 hydrocarbons Chemical class 0.000 description 9
- 230000015556 catabolic process Effects 0.000 description 8
- 238000006731 degradation reaction Methods 0.000 description 8
- 235000014113 dietary fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 8
- 239000000194 fatty acid Substances 0.000 description 8
- 229930195729 fatty acid Natural products 0.000 description 8
- 229930195733 hydrocarbon Natural products 0.000 description 8
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 7
- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 6
- 150000004665 fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 6
- 229920000435 poly(dimethylsiloxane) Polymers 0.000 description 6
- 229920000642 polymer Polymers 0.000 description 6
- FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethylhexyl salicylate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1O FMRHJJZUHUTGKE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 235000013870 dimethyl polysiloxane Nutrition 0.000 description 5
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 5
- GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO GLDOVTGHNKAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 239000002245 particle Substances 0.000 description 5
- 239000001993 wax Substances 0.000 description 5
- VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1-monostearoylglycerol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(O)CO VBICKXHEKHSIBG-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- FFRBMBIXVSCUFS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol Chemical compound C1=CC=C2C(O)=C([N+]([O-])=O)C=C([N+]([O-])=O)C2=C1 FFRBMBIXVSCUFS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- XMVBHZBLHNOQON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-butyl-1-octanol Chemical compound CCCCCCC(CO)CCCC XMVBHZBLHNOQON-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- WRMNZCZEMHIOCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-phenylethanol Chemical compound OCCC1=CC=CC=C1 WRMNZCZEMHIOCP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- GLZPCOQZEFWAFX-UHFFFAOYSA-N Geraniol Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)=CCO GLZPCOQZEFWAFX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Silicium dioxide Chemical compound O=[Si]=O VYPSYNLAJGMNEJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 235000006708 antioxidants Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- QUKGYYKBILRGFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N benzyl acetate Chemical compound CC(=O)OCC1=CC=CC=C1 QUKGYYKBILRGFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- QMVPMAAFGQKVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N citronellol Chemical compound OCCC(C)CCC=C(C)C QMVPMAAFGQKVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 description 4
- MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol Chemical compound OCCOCCO MTHSVFCYNBDYFN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000004205 dimethyl polysiloxane Substances 0.000 description 4
- 235000011187 glycerol Nutrition 0.000 description 4
- BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N hexadecan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO BXWNKGSJHAJOGX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- CDOSHBSSFJOMGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N linalool Chemical compound CC(C)=CCCC(C)(O)C=C CDOSHBSSFJOMGT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
- 239000010445 mica Substances 0.000 description 4
- 229910052618 mica group Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 210000004761 scalp Anatomy 0.000 description 4
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 4
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 4
- JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N (2r,3r,4s)-2-[(1r)-1,2-dihydroxyethyl]oxolane-3,4-diol Chemical compound OC[C@@H](O)[C@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JNYAEWCLZODPBN-JGWLITMVSA-N 0.000 description 3
- RWRDLPDLKQPQOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Pyrrolidine Chemical compound C1CCNC1 RWRDLPDLKQPQOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 description 3
- XNEFYCZVKIDDMS-UHFFFAOYSA-N avobenzone Chemical compound C1=CC(OC)=CC=C1C(=O)CC(=O)C1=CC=C(C(C)(C)C)C=C1 XNEFYCZVKIDDMS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 229940008099 dimethicone Drugs 0.000 description 3
- 238000002845 discoloration Methods 0.000 description 3
- 150000002170 ethers Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 150000002191 fatty alcohols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- 239000000796 flavoring agent Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019634 flavors Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000004005 microsphere Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229920005862 polyol Polymers 0.000 description 3
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 3
- 235000002020 sage Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 239000001296 salvia officinalis l. Substances 0.000 description 3
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 description 3
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 description 3
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 3
- DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N (2r,4r,4as,6as,6as,6br,8ar,12ar,14as,14bs)-2-hydroxy-4,4a,6a,6b,8a,11,11,14a-octamethyl-2,4,5,6,6a,7,8,9,10,12,12a,13,14,14b-tetradecahydro-1h-picen-3-one Chemical compound C([C@H]1[C@]2(C)CC[C@@]34C)C(C)(C)CC[C@]1(C)CC[C@]2(C)[C@H]4CC[C@@]1(C)[C@H]3C[C@@H](O)C(=O)[C@@H]1C DSEKYWAQQVUQTP-XEWMWGOFSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 239000001490 (3R)-3,7-dimethylocta-1,6-dien-3-ol Substances 0.000 description 2
- WEFHSZAZNMEWKJ-KEDVMYETSA-N (6Z,8E)-undeca-6,8,10-trien-2-one (6E,8E)-undeca-6,8,10-trien-2-one (6Z,8E)-undeca-6,8,10-trien-3-one (6E,8E)-undeca-6,8,10-trien-3-one (6Z,8E)-undeca-6,8,10-trien-4-one (6E,8E)-undeca-6,8,10-trien-4-one Chemical compound CCCC(=O)C\C=C\C=C\C=C.CCCC(=O)C\C=C/C=C/C=C.CCC(=O)CC\C=C\C=C\C=C.CCC(=O)CC\C=C/C=C/C=C.CC(=O)CCC\C=C\C=C\C=C.CC(=O)CCC\C=C/C=C/C=C WEFHSZAZNMEWKJ-KEDVMYETSA-N 0.000 description 2
- ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N (9Z)-octadecen-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCCO ALSTYHKOOCGGFT-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 2
- QMVPMAAFGQKVCJ-SNVBAGLBSA-N (R)-(+)-citronellol Natural products OCC[C@H](C)CCC=C(C)C QMVPMAAFGQKVCJ-SNVBAGLBSA-N 0.000 description 2
- CDOSHBSSFJOMGT-JTQLQIEISA-N (R)-linalool Natural products CC(C)=CCC[C@@](C)(O)C=C CDOSHBSSFJOMGT-JTQLQIEISA-N 0.000 description 2
- GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N (±)-α-Tocopherol Chemical compound OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1C GVJHHUAWPYXKBD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XHZPRMZZQOIPDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Methyl-2-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl)amino]-1-propanesulfonic acid Chemical compound OS(=O)(=O)CC(C)(C)NC(=O)C=C XHZPRMZZQOIPDS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- XULHFMYCBKQGEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-hexyl-1-Decanol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCC(CO)CCCCCC XULHFMYCBKQGEE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 150000004706 metal oxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
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- 125000002496 methyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 125000001280 n-hexyl group Chemical group C(CCCCC)* 0.000 description 1
- 125000000740 n-pentyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
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- 239000005445 natural material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001971 neopentyl group Chemical group [H]C([*])([H])C(C([H])([H])[H])(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 231100000252 nontoxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000003000 nontoxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N octadecanoic acid Natural products CCCCCCCC(C)CCCCCCCCC(O)=O OQCDKBAXFALNLD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005474 octanoate group Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N octanoic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC(O)=O WWZKQHOCKIZLMA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000005473 octanoic acid group Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- YBGZDTIWKVFICR-UHFFFAOYSA-N octinoxate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C=CC1=CC=C(OC)C=C1 YBGZDTIWKVFICR-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N oleic acid Chemical compound CCCCCCCC\C=C/CCCCCCCC(O)=O ZQPPMHVWECSIRJ-KTKRTIGZSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011368 organic material Substances 0.000 description 1
- RUVINXPYWBROJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N para-methoxyphenyl Natural products COC1=CC=C(C=CC)C=C1 RUVINXPYWBROJD-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000019809 paraffin wax Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000011837 pasties Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000012736 patent blue V Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940100460 peg-100 stearate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentaerythritol Chemical class OCC(CO)(CO)CO WXZMFSXDPGVJKK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 125000003538 pentan-3-yl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 230000002085 persistent effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 229920001921 poly-methyl-phenyl-siloxane Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 229920002401 polyacrylamide Polymers 0.000 description 1
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- 239000002244 precipitate Substances 0.000 description 1
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- IZMJMCDDWKSTTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N quinoline yellow Chemical compound C1=CC=CC2=NC(C3C(C4=CC=CC=C4C3=O)=O)=CC=C21 IZMJMCDDWKSTTK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000002914 sec-butyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])(*)C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
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- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 229920002379 silicone rubber Polymers 0.000 description 1
- RYYKJJJTJZKILX-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium octadecanoate Chemical class [Na+].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC([O-])=O RYYKJJJTJZKILX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 239000000243 solution Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003595 spectral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
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- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
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- CIOAGBVUUVVLOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N strontium atom Chemical compound [Sr] CIOAGBVUUVVLOB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000008163 sugars Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000003786 synthesis reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012222 talc Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000003505 terpenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000007586 terpenes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940116411 terpineol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 125000001973 tert-pentyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C(*)(C([H])([H])[H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N tetratriacontan-1-ol Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCO OULAJFUGPPVRBK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 239000001585 thymus vulgaris Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004408 titanium dioxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229930003799 tocopherol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011732 tocopherol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019149 tocopherols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 230000036346 tooth eruption Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000699 topical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- BJIOGJUNALELMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoeugenol Natural products COC1=CC(C=CC)=CC=C1O BJIOGJUNALELMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N trichlorofluoromethane Chemical compound FC(Cl)(Cl)Cl CYRMSUTZVYGINF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940029284 trichlorofluoromethane Drugs 0.000 description 1
- COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N tris(14-methylpentadecyl) 2-hydroxypropane-1,2,3-tricarboxylate Chemical compound CC(C)CCCCCCCCCCCCCOC(=O)CC(O)(C(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C)CC(=O)OCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(C)C COXJMKGEQAWXNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K trisodium;5-oxo-1-(4-sulfonatophenyl)-4-[(4-sulfonatophenyl)diazenyl]-4h-pyrazole-3-carboxylate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=NN(C=2C=CC(=CC=2)S([O-])(=O)=O)C(=O)C1N=NC1=CC=C(S([O-])(=O)=O)C=C1 UJMBCXLDXJUMFB-UHFFFAOYSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 235000013799 ultramarine blue Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000013311 vegetables Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
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- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000011701 zinc Substances 0.000 description 1
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- QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N γ-tocopherol Chemical class OC1=C(C)C(C)=C2OC(CCCC(C)CCCC(C)CCCC(C)C)(C)CCC2=C1 QUEDXNHFTDJVIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
- A61K8/41—Amines
- A61K8/415—Aminophenols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q13/00—Formulations or additives for perfume preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
Abstract
Description
Composition parfumante comprenant l'association d'un filtre du typePerfuming composition comprising the combination of a filter of the type
hydroxyaminobenzophenone, d'un filtre du type cinnamate et d'un un filtre du type dibenzoylméthane L'invention se rapporte à une composition parfumante comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : a) au moins 2% en poids d'une substance parfumante par rapport au poids total de la composition ; b) au moins un filtre UV du type hydroxyaminobenzophenone de formule (I) particulière que l'on définira plus loin en détail c) au moins un filtre UV du type cinnamate ; d) au moins un filtre UV du type dibenzoylméthane. On sait qu'un parfum est l'association de différentes substances odorantes qui s'évaporent à des périodes différentes. Chaque parfum présente ce que l'on appelle une note de tête qui est l'odeur diffusant en premier lors de l'application du parfum ou lors de l'ouverture du récipient le contenant, une note de coeur ou corps qui correspond au parfum complet (émission pendant quelques heures après la note de tête ) et une note de fond qui est l'odeur la plus persistante (émission pendant plusieurs heures après la note de coeur ). La persistance de la note de fond correspond à la rémanence du parfum. The invention relates to a perfuming composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 2% by weight of a perfuming substance with respect to the composition of the present invention; total weight of the composition; b) at least one UV-filter of the hydroxyaminobenzophenone type of formula (I) which will be defined in detail below c) at least one UV filter cinnamate type; d) at least one UV filter of the dibenzoylmethane type. We know that a perfume is the combination of different odorous substances that evaporate at different times. Each perfume has what is called a top note which is the odor that diffuses first when applying the perfume or when opening the container containing it, a heart or body note that corresponds to the complete perfume (emission for a few hours after the top note) and a bottom note that is the most persistent odor (emission for several hours after the heart note). The persistence of the base note corresponds to the persistence of the perfume.
L'être humain a de tout temps cherché à se parfumer et à parfumer les objets qui l'entourent ou les lieux dans lesquels il se trouve, et ceci, aussi bien pour masquer des odeurs fortes et/ou désagréables que pour donner une bonne odeur. Il est courant d'incorporer du parfum dans un certain nombre de produits ou compositions, en particulier cosmétiques et dermatologiques telles que des eaux fraîches, eaux de toilette, des eaux de parfum, des lotions après rasage, des eaux de soin. The human being has always sought to perfume and perfume the objects that surround him or the places in which he is, and this, both to mask strong and / or unpleasant odors that to give a good smell . It is common to incorporate perfume in a number of products or compositions, in particular cosmetic and dermatological such as fresh water, toilet water, perfume water, aftershave lotions, care waters.
30 Un parfum ou une composition parfumante doit avoir une odeur agréable et une couleur stables selon un certain temps correspondant au temps d'utilisation de la consommatrice. Ils doivent résister à différentes agressions telles que la lumière et des différences de température. A perfume or a perfume composition must have a pleasant odor and a stable color according to a certain time corresponding to the time of use of the consumer. They must withstand different aggressions such as light and temperature differences.
35 On ajoute généralement un système filtrant et/ou un système antioxydant. Cependant, certains systèmes filtrants sont inefficaces et/ou ont tendance à dénaturer la couleur et/ou le parfum recherchés. A filter system and / or antioxidant system is generally added. However, some filter systems are inefficient and / or tend to denature the desired color and / or fragrance.
La plupart des produits parfumants comportent des stabilisateurs tels que des filtres UVA 40 ou filtre UVB et des anti-oxydants. Most perfuming products include stabilizers such as UVA filters 40 or UVB filter and antioxidants.
Les stabilisateurs ont pour rôle de maintenir les propriétés organoleptiques des produits stables à différentes agressions telles que les UV et les chocs thermiques. Des agents stabilisants sont connus de l'art antérieur pour améliorer la résistance de ces produits vis- 45 àvis de ces agressions. Stabilizers have the role of maintaining the organoleptic properties of stable products with different aggressions such as UV and thermal shocks. Stabilizing agents are known from the prior art to improve the resistance of these products to these attacks.
On connaît dans la demande de brevet WO2005/123013 l'association du diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate et de l'éthyl hexyl methoxycinnamate, vendu sous la dénomination Uvinul A + B, comme stabilisant la couleur dans les compositions 50 parfumantes. Patent application WO2005 / 123013 discloses the combination of diethylamino hydroxybenzoylhexylbenzoate and ethyl hexyl methoxycinnamate, sold under the name Uvinul A + B, as color stabilizer in perfuming compositions.
On connaît également dans la demande de brevet WO2000/25730 utilisant le Tinogard AS ou " Bumetrizole " pour éviter les dégradations photolytiques des produits cosmétiques, dont les parfums. 55 On connaît également dans la demande de brevet WO2003/103622 l'utilisation du Tinogard Q ou "tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) pour stabiliser des parfums, dont les eaux de toilette. Also known in the patent application WO2000 / 25730 using Tinogard AS or "Bumetrizole" to prevent photolytic degradation of cosmetics, including perfumes. Also known in patent application WO2003 / 103622 the use of Tinogard Q or "tris (Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) to stabilize perfumes, including toilet waters.
Le brevet WO 2005/042828 cite l'association Tinogard Q à des filtres particuliers dans le but de stabiliser des parfums et éviter la dégradation des eaux de toilette à la lumière. Patent WO 2005/042828 cites the association Tinogard Q with particular filters in order to stabilize perfumes and to prevent the degradation of toilet water in the light.
Malheureusement les filtres UV ou les stabilisants préconisés par les demandes de brevet de l'art antérieur ne sont pas pleinement satisfaisants, en particulier pour les parfums fragiles riches en substances naturelles. On observe le plus souvent des modifications des propriétés organoleptiques comme en particulier celles de l'odeur et de la couleur au cours du temps (jugées par analyse sensorielle tels que le "sniff test" pour l'odeur, et un test de visualisation à l'oeil nu ou par un spectromètre pour quantifier les évolutions de couleur selon différents paramètres de l'évolution de la couleur, selon l'exposition à différents types de clarté). En particulier, dans les modifications visuelles, apparaissent facilement des jaunissements, des rosissements liés à la dégradation des corps chimiques. On peut voir également des modifications de clarté des liquides, lorsque ceux-ci sont à l'origine transparents, telles que des floculations et des précipités de matières ou des troubles altérant l'aspect des produits et pouvant nuire à l'efficacité des pompes, lorsque le produit est conditionné en spray. Aussi, il subsiste donc le besoin de rechercher de nouveaux produits parfumants ne présentant pas les inconvénients des produits de l'art antérieur, et notamment le besoin de produits parfumants dont les propriétés organoleptiques comme l'odeur et la couleur restent stables dans le temps et sous les effets de la lumière ou des différences de température. Unfortunately the UV filters or stabilizers recommended by the patent applications of the prior art are not fully satisfactory, especially for fragile perfumes rich in natural substances. Most often, changes in organoleptic properties are observed, such as in particular odor and color over time (judged by sensory analysis such as the "sniff test" for odor, and a visual display test). naked eye or by a spectrometer to quantify the color evolutions according to different parameters of the evolution of the color, according to the exposure to different types of clarity). In particular, in the visual modifications, yellowing, pinkishness related to the degradation of the chemical bodies easily appear. It is also possible to see changes in the clarity of the liquids, when these are initially transparent, such as flocculations and precipitates of materials or disorders affecting the appearance of the products and which may affect the efficiency of the pumps. when the product is packaged as a spray. Also, there remains the need to search for new perfuming products that do not have the drawbacks of the products of the prior art, and in particular the need for perfuming products whose organoleptic properties such as odor and color remain stable over time and under the effects of light or temperature differences.
La demanderesse a découvert de manière surprenante que cet objectif pouvait être atteint en utilisant une composition parfumante comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : a) au moins 2% en poids d'une substance parfumante par rapport au poids total de la composition ; b) au moins un filtre UV du type hydroxyaminobenzophenone de formule (I) particulière que l'on définira plus loin en détail ; c) au moins un filtre UV du type cinnamate ; d) au moins un filtre UV du type dibenzoylméthane. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that this objective could be achieved by using a perfuming composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 2% by weight of a perfuming substance relative to the total weight of the composition; b) at least one UV-filter of the hydroxyaminobenzophenone type of formula (I) which will be defined further in detail; c) at least one UV filter of the cinnamate type; d) at least one UV filter of the dibenzoylmethane type.
Cette découverte est à la base de l'invention. This discovery is the basis of the invention.
La demanderesse a découvert de manière surprenante que cet objectif pouvait être atteint en utilisant une composition parfumante comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable : a) d'au moins 2% en poids d'une substance parfumante ; b) au moins un filtre UV du type hydroxyaminobenzophenone de formule (I) particulière que l'on définira plus loin en détail c) au moins un filtre UV du type cinnamate ; d) au moins un filtre UV du type dibenzoylméthane. The Applicant has surprisingly found that this objective could be achieved by using a perfuming composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium: a) at least 2% by weight of a perfuming substance; b) at least one UV-filter of the hydroxyaminobenzophenone type of formula (I) which will be defined in detail below c) at least one UV filter cinnamate type; d) at least one UV filter of the dibenzoylmethane type.
L'invention se rapporte également à l'utilisation de l'association d'au moins un filtre UV du type hydroxyaminobenzophenone de formule (I) particulière que l'on définira plus loin en détail , d'au moins un filtre UV du type cinnamate et d'au moins un filtre UV du type dibenzoylméthane telle que définie ci-dessus dans une composition parfumée comprenant dans un milieu cosmétiquement acceptable au moins 2% en poids d'une substance parfumante ; comme agent stabilisant des propriétés organoleptiques en particulier de la couleur et/ou de l'odeur de ladite composition vis-àvis des agressions extérieures comme la lumière ou les différences de température. The invention also relates to the use of the combination of at least one UV-filter of the hydroxyaminobenzophenone type of formula (I), which will be defined later in detail, of at least one UV filter of the cinnamate type. and at least one UV filter of the dibenzoylmethane type as defined above in a perfume composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least 2% by weight of a perfuming substance; as a stabilizing agent for the organoleptic properties, in particular the color and / or the odor of said composition with respect to external aggressions such as light or temperature differences.
L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé cosmétique de parfumage des matières kératiniques humaines et notamment de la peau, des lèvres, des cheveux, du cuir chevelu, les ongles, comprenant l'application sur les matières kératiniques de la composition telle que définie ci-dessus. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the perfuming of human keratinous materials and in particular of the skin, the lips, the hair, the scalp and the nails, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition as defined herein. -above.
Par composition parfumante, on entend toute composition laissant après application sur les matières kétatiniques un parfum. By perfume composition is meant any composition leaving after application on ketatinic materials a perfume.
Par substance parfumante , on entend tout parfum ou arôme susceptible de parfumer la peau et les matières kératiniques humaines en général comprenant la peau, les cheveux, le cuir chevelu, les lèvres ; les ongles. La quantité de substance(s) parfumante(s) sera plus préférentiellement de 3 à 50 % en poids, mieux de 5 à 30%, encore mieux 10 à 20% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Perfume means any fragrance or aroma likely to perfume the skin and human keratin materials in general including the skin, the hair, the scalp, the lips; nails. The amount of perfuming substance (s) will more preferably be from 3 to 50% by weight, better still from 5 to 30%, and even more preferably from 10 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
35 On entend par milieu cosmétiquement acceptable dans la composition de l'invention, un milieu non toxique et susceptible d'être appliqué sur les matières kératiniques humaines comprenant la peau, le visage, les lèvres, les ongles, les cheveux, le cuir chevelu. The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" in the composition of the invention means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials including the skin, the face, the lips, the nails, the hair and the scalp.
Comme substance parfumante, on peut utiliser dans la composition de l'invention, les 40 parfums et les arômes d'origine naturelle ou synthétique et leurs mélanges. Comme parfums et arômes d'origine naturelle, on peut citer par exemple les extraits de fleurs (lis, lavande, rose, jasmin, ilang-ilang), de tiges et de feuilles (patchouli, géranium, petit-grain), de fruits (coriandre, anis, cumin, genièvre), d'écorces de fruits (bergamote, citron, orange), de racines (angélique, céleri, cardamome, iris, acore), de bois (bois de pin, 45 santal, gaïac, cèdre rose), d'herbes et de graminées (estragon, lemon grass, sauge, thym), d'aiguilles et de branches (épicéa, sapin, pin, pin nain), de résines et de baumes (galbanum, élémi, benjoin, myrrhe, oliban, opopanax). As perfuming substance, the perfumes and the flavors of natural or synthetic origin and their mixtures can be used in the composition of the invention. As perfumes and aromas of natural origin, one can quote for example the extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, ilang-ilang), stems and leaves (patchouli, geranium, petit-grain), fruits ( coriander, anise, cumin, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (angelica, celery, cardamom, iris, acore), wood (pine wood, 45 sandalwood, guaiac, rose cedar ), grasses and grasses (tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, oliban, opopanax).
Comme substance parfumante d'origine synthétique, on peut citer par exemple les 50 composés du type ester, éther, aldéhyde, cétone, alcool aromatique et hydrocarbure. Examples of perfume substances of synthetic origin are the compounds of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, aromatic alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
Comme esters, on peut citer en particulier l'acétate de benzyle, le benzoate de benzyle, l'isobutyrate de phénoxyéthyle, l'acétate de p-tert-butylcyclohexyle, l'acétate de citronellyle, le formiate de citronellyle, l'acétate de géranyle, l'acétate de linalyle, l'acétate 55 de diméthyl-benzylcarbinyle, l'acétate de phényléthyle, le benzoate de linalyle, le formiate30 de benzyle, le glycinate d'éthylméthylphényle, le propionate d'alkylcyclohexyle, le propionate de styralyle et le salicylate de benzyle. As esters, mention may be made in particular of benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, citronellyl acetate, citronellyl formate, acetate of geranyl, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, alkylcyclohexyl propionate, styralyl propionate, and the like. benzyl salicylate.
Comme éthers, on peut citer le benzyléthyléther. Comme aldéhydes, on peut citer par exemple les alcanals linéaires comportant de 8 à 18 atomes de carbone, le citral, le citronellal, le citronellyloxyacétaldéhyde, le cyclamènaldéhyde, l'hydroxycitronellal, le lilial et le bourgeonal. As ethers, mention may be made of benzylethyl ether. As aldehydes, there may be mentioned, for example, linear alkanals containing from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bud.
10 Comme cétones, on peut citer par exemple les ionones comme l'alpha-isométhylionone, et la méthylcédrylcétone. Examples of ketones are ionones such as alpha-isomethylionone and methylcedrylketone.
Parmi les alcool aromatiques et notamment terpéniques, on peut citer l'anéthol, le citronellol, l'eugénol, l'isoeugénol, le géraniol, le linalol, le phényléthylalcool et le terpinéol. Comme hydrocarbures, on peut citer notamment les terpènes. Ces composés se présentent souvent sous forme de mélange de deux ou plus de ces substances odorantes. Among the aromatic and especially terpenic alcohols, mention may be made of anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethylalcohol and terpineol. As hydrocarbons, there may be mentioned terpenes. These compounds are often in the form of a mixture of two or more of these odorous substances.
20 Par ailleurs, on peut aussi utiliser des huiles essentielles, composants d'arômes, comme par exemple les essences de sauge, de camomille, de girofle, de mélisse, de menthe, de feuilles de cannelier, de fleurs de tilleul, de genièvre, de vétiver, d'olibian, de galbanum, de labolanum et de lavandin. On the other hand, it is also possible to use essential oils, components of flavors, such as, for example, essences of sage, chamomile, clove, lemon balm, mint, cinnamon leaves, linden flowers, juniper, vetiver, olibian, galbanum, labolanum and lavandin.
25 On utilise de préférence comme substance parfumante, seule ou en mélange, l'essence de bergamote, le dihydromyrcénol, le lilial, le lyral, le citronellol, l'alcool phényléthylique, l'alpha-hexylcinnamaldéhyde, le géraniol, la benzylacétone, le cyclamènaldéhyde, le linalol, l'ambroxane, l'indol, l'hédione, la sandelice, les essences de citron, de mandarine et d'orange, le glycolate d'allylamine, le cyclovertal, l'essence de lavandin, l'essence de 30 sauge, le bétadamascone, l'essence de géranium, le salicylate de cyclohexyle, l'acide phénylacétique, l'acétate de géranyle, l'acétate de benzyle, l'oxyde de rose. The fragrancing substance used, alone or as a mixture, is preferably bergamot, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, alpha-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, ambroxane, indol, hedione, sandelice, essences of lemon, mandarin and orange, allylamine glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, gasoline of sage, betadamascone, geranium oil, cyclohexyl salicylate, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide.
Selon un mode préféré de réalisation de l'invention, on utilise un mélange de différentes substances parfumante qui engendrent en commun une note plaisante pour l'utilisateur. 35 Parmi les notes olfactives connues, on peut citer par exemple les parfums hespéridés, les aromatiques, les parfums floraux, les musqués, les parfums fruités, les épicés, les parfums orientaux, les parfums marins, les notes aquatiques, les parfums chyprés, les parfums boisés, les fougères et leurs mélanges According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of different perfuming substances is used which generate in common a pleasant note for the user. Among the known olfactory notes, mention may be made, for example, of citrus flavors, aromatics, floral perfumes, muskets, fruity perfumes, spices, oriental perfumes, marine perfumes, aquatic notes, chypre perfumes, woody fragrances, ferns and their mixtures
40 Les composés hydroxyaminobenzophenones conformes à l'invention répondent à la formule générale (I) suivante : dans laquelle : 45 R, et R2, identiques ou différents, désignent un atome d'hydrogène, un radical alkyle en C1-C20 ; un cycloalkyle en C3-C,o ou un cycloalcényle en C3-C,o ou forment avec l'atome d'azote avec lequel ils sont liés un cycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons ; 15 (I) N R3 désigne un radical alkyle en C1-C20. The hydroxyaminobenzophenone compounds according to the invention correspond to the following general formula (I): in which: R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical; C3-C20 cycloalkyl or C3-C20 cycloalkenyl or form with the nitrogen atom with which they are bound a 5- or 6-membered ring; (I) N R3 denotes a C1-C20 alkyl radical.
Comme radicaux alkyle en C1-C20, on peut citer par exemple : méthyle, éthyle, n-propyle, 1-méthyléthyle, n-butyle, 1-méthylpropyle, 2-méthylpropyle, 1,1-diméthyléthyle, n-pentyle, 1-méthylbutyle, 2-méthylbutyle, 3-méthylbutyle, 2,2-d iméthylpropyle, 1-éthylpropyle, nhexyle, 1,1-diméthylpropyle, 1,2-diméthylpropyle, 1-méthylpentyle, 2-méthylpentyle, 3- méthylpentyle, 4-méthylpentyle, 1,1-diméthylbutyle, 1,2-diméthylbutyle, 1,3-diméthylbutyle, 2,2-diméthylbutyle, 2,3-diméthylbutyle, 3,3-diméthylbutyle, 1-éthylbutyle, 2-éthylbutyle, 1,2,2-triméthylpropyle, 1-éthyl-1-méthylpropyle, 1-éthyl-2-méthylpropyle, n- heptyle, n-octyle, n-nonyle, n-décyle, n-undécyle, n-dodécyle, n-tridécyle, n-tétradécyle, n-pentadécyle, n-hexadécyle, n-heptadécyle, n-octadécyle, n-nonadécyle ou n-eicosyle. Examples of C 1 -C 20 alkyl radicals that may be mentioned include: methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, 1-methylethyl, n-butyl, 1-methylpropyl, 2-methylpropyl, 1,1-dimethylethyl, n-pentyl, methylbutyl, 2-methylbutyl, 3-methylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-ethylpropyl, hexyl, 1,1-dimethylpropyl, 1,2-dimethylpropyl, 1-methylpentyl, 2-methylpentyl, 3-methylpentyl, 4-methylpentyl 1,1-Dimethylbutyl, 1,2-dimethylbutyl, 1,3-dimethylbutyl, 2,2-dimethylbutyl, 2,3-dimethylbutyl, 3,3-dimethylbutyl, 1-ethylbutyl, 2-ethylbutyl, 1,2,2 trimethylpropyl, 1-ethyl-1-methylpropyl, 1-ethyl-2-methylpropyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl, n-tridecyl, n-tetradecyl , n-pentadecyl, n-hexadecyl, n-heptadecyl, n-octadecyl, n-nonadecyl or n-eicosyl.
Comme radicaux cycloalkyles en C3-C10, on peut citer par exemple : cyclopropyle, cyclobutyle, cyclopentyle, cyclohexyle, cycloheptyle, 1-méthylcyclopropyle, 1-éthylcyclopropyle, 1-propylcyclopropyle, 1-butylcyclopropyle, 1-pentylcyclopropyle, 1-méthyl-1-butylcyclopropyle, 1,2-diméthylcyclypropyle, 1-méthyl-2-éthylcyclopropyle, cyclooctyle, cyclononyle ou cyclodécyle. Examples of C 3 -C 10 cycloalkyl radicals that may be mentioned include: cyclopropyl, cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, 1-methylcyclopropyl, 1-ethylcyclopropyl, 1-propylcyclopropyl, 1-butylcyclopropyl, 1-pentylcyclopropyl, 1-methyl-1 butylcyclopropyl, 1,2-dimethylcyclypropyl, 1-methyl-2-ethylcyclopropyl, cyclooctyl, cyclononyl or cyclodecyl.
Comme radicaux cycloalcènyles en C3-C10 ayant une ou plusieurs doubles liaisons, on peut citer : cyclopropènyle, cyclobutènyle, cyclopentènyle, cyclopentadiènyle, cyclohexènyle, 1,3-cyclohexadiènyle, 1,4-cyclohexadiènyle, cycloheptènyle, cycloheptatriènyle, cyclooctènyle, 1,5-cyclooctadiènyle, cyclooctatétraènyle, cyclononènyle ou cyclodécènyle. As C 3 -C 10 cycloalkylene radicals having one or more double bonds, there may be mentioned: cyclopropenyl, cyclobutenyl, cyclopentenyl, cyclopentadienyl, cyclohexenyl, 1,3-cyclohexadienyl, 1,4-cyclohexadienyl, cycloheptenyl, cycloheptameryl, cyclooctenyl, 1,5- cyclooctadienyl, cyclooctatetretenyl, cyclononenyl or cyclodecenyl.
Comme exemples de cycle à 5 ou 6 chaînons formé par les radicaux R, et R2 avec l'atome d'azote, on peut citer en particulier pyrrolidine ou pipéridine. Examples of a 5- or 6-membered ring formed by the radicals R 1 and R 2 with the nitrogen atom include, in particular, pyrrolidine or piperidine.
Un composé de formule (I) tout particulièrement préféré est le 2-(4-diéthylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle de formule (A) : tel que le produit vendu sous le nom commercial UVINUL A+ par la société BASF. A very particularly preferred compound of formula (I) is n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate of formula (A): such as the product sold under the trade name Uvinul A + by the company BASF .
Les composés de formule (I) tels que définis ci-dessus sont connus en eux-mêmes et leurs structures et leurs synthèses sont décrites dans les demandes de brevet EP-A-1046391, EP1133980 et DE100 12 408. The compounds of formula (I) as defined above are known per se and their structures and their syntheses are described in patent applications EP-A-1046391, EP1133980 and DE100 12 408.
40 De préférence, le composé hydroxyaminobenzophenone de formule (I) est présent dans les compositions selon l'invention à une teneur allant de 0,01% à 1,5% en poids, et plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 0,8% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Preferably, the hydroxyaminobenzophenone compound of formula (I) is present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1% to 0.8% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Parmi les filtres du type cinnamate conformes à l'invention, on peut citer notamment de 45 manière non limitative : Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate vendu notamment sous le nom commercial PARSOL COO OH 5 35 (A) MCX par HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate vendu sous le nom commercial NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 par HAARMANN et REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Parmi les filtres cinnamates mentionnés ci-dessus, on utilisera tout particulièrement Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate proposé à la vente sous la dénomination commerciale de "PARSOL MCX" par la Société DSM ; ce filtre répond à la formule (B) suivante : Among the cinnamate type filters in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner: Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL COO OH 35 (A) MCX by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate Among the cinnamate filters mentioned above, use will be made especially Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate offered for sale under the trade name of "PARSOL MCX" by DSM; this filter corresponds to the following formula (B):
O /w\ (B) De préférence, le composé cinnamate est présent dans les compositions selon l'invention à une teneur allant de 0,01% à 1,5% en poids, et plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 0,8% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. (B) Preferably, the cinnamate compound is present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.01% to 1.5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight. % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Selon une forme particulière de l'invention, on utilisera l'association 2-(4-diéthylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle / Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate dans un rapport en poids 35/65% en poids tel que le produit vendu sous le nom commercial UVINUL A +B par BASF. According to one particular form of the invention, use will be made of the combination of n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate / Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate in a weight ratio of 35 to 65% by weight, such as the product sold. under the trade name UVINUL A + B by BASF.
Cette association particulière sera présente dans les compositions selon l'invention à une teneur allant de 0,01% à 2% en poids, et plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 1% en poids et encore plus particulièrement de 0,3 à 1% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition par rapport au poids total de la composition. This particular combination will be present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.01% to 2% by weight, and more particularly from 0.1 to 1% by weight and even more particularly from 0.3 to 1%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition relative to the total weight of the composition.
Parmi les filtres du type dibenzoylméthane conformes à l'invention, on peut notamment citer, de manière non limitative : - le 2-méthyldibenzoylméthane, - le 4-méthyldibenzoylméthane, - le 4-isopropyldibenzoylméthane, - le 4-tert.-butyldibenzoylméthane, - le 2,4-diméthyldibenzoylméthane, - le 2,5-diméthyldibenzoylméthane, - le 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylméthane, - le 4,4'-d iméthoxydibenzoylméthane, -le 4-tert.-butyl-4'-méthoxydibenzoylméthane, - le 2-méthyl-5-isopropyl-4'-méthoxydibenzoylméthane, - le 2-méthyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-méthxydibenzoylméthane, - le 2,4-diméthyl-4'-méthoxydibenzoylméthane, - le 2,6-diméthyl-4-tert-butyl-4'-méthoxydibenzoylméthane. Among the dibenzoylmethane type filters in accordance with the invention, mention may be made, in a nonlimiting manner: 2-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-methyldibenzoylmethane, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyldibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 2,5-dimethyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-diisopropyldibenzoylmethane, 4,4'-dimethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-isopropyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-methyl-5-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4-dimethyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,6-dimethyl -4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane.
Parmi les dérivés du dibenzoylméthane mentionnés ci-dessus, on utilisera tout particulièrement le 4-(ter.-butyl) 4'-méthoxy dibenzoylméthane ou Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoylmethane, proposé à la vente sous la dénomination commerciale de "PARSOL 1789" par la Société DSM ; ce filtre répond à la formule (C) suivante :50 (C) OMe Le ou les filtres du type dibenzoylméthane conformes à l'invention sont de préférence présents dans les compositions selon l'invention à une teneur allant de 0,01% à 1,5% en poids, de préférence de 0,1 à 0,5% en poids et plus particulièrement de 0,1 à 0,8% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. Among the dibenzoylmethane derivatives mentioned above, use will be made particularly of 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxy dibenzoylmethane or butyl methoxy dibenzoylmethane, offered for sale under the trade name "PARSOL 1789" by the company DSM ; this filter has the following formula (C): (C) OMe The dibenzoylmethane type filter (s) according to the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.01% to 1 , 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 0.5% by weight and more particularly from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Ainsi, lorsqu'on ajoute en quantité suffisante de l'association selon l'invention à une composition parfumée de l'invention on observe une augmentation de la stabilité de l'odeur et de la couleur dans le temps et sous les effets de la lumière. Thus, when a sufficient amount of the combination according to the invention is added to a scented composition of the invention, an increase in the stability of the odor and the color is observed over time and under the effects of light. .
Selon une forme particulière de l'invention, le milieu cosmétiquement acceptable conforme à la présente invention contient au moins un alcool volatil et/ou une huile de silicone volatile et éventuellement de l'eau. De façon préférentielle ce milieu de la composition contient de l'eau dans une quantité allant de préférence de 0,01 % à 50 % et plus préférentiellement, de 0,5 % à 25 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. According to one particular form of the invention, the cosmetically acceptable medium according to the present invention contains at least one volatile alcohol and / or a volatile silicone oil and possibly water. Preferably, this medium of the composition contains water in an amount ranging preferably from 0.01% to 50% and more preferably from 0.5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Par alcool volatil , tout composé comprenant au moins une fonction alcool ayant une pression de vapeur à 20 C supérieure à 17,5 mm de mercure. By volatile alcohol, any compound comprising at least one alcohol function having a vapor pressure at 20 C greater than 17.5 mm of mercury.
Par huile , on entend, au sens de l'invention, un corps gras, non soluble dans l'eau, et liquide à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique. For the purposes of the invention, the term "oil" means a fatty substance which is insoluble in water and which is liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
Par huile de silicone volatile , on entend, au sens de l'invention, tout composé siliconé susceptible de s'évaporer au contact de la peau ou de la fibre kératinique en moins d'une heure, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique. Le composé volatil est un composé cosmétique volatil, liquide à température ambiante, ayant notamment une pression de vapeur non nulle, à température ambiante et pression atmosphérique, notamment ayant une pression de vapeur allant de 0,13 Pa à 40 000 Pa (10-3 à 300 mm de Hg), en particulier allant de 1,3 Pa à 13 000 Pa (0,01 à 100 mm de Hg), et plus particulièrement allant del ,3 Pa à 1300 Pa (0,01 à 10 mm de Hg). For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile silicone oil" means any silicone compound capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile compound is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 at 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg). ).
Les alcools volatils conformes à la présente invention sont choisis de préférence parmi monoalcools inférieurs en Cl-05 peuvent être choisis parmi le méthanol, l'éthanol, propanol, l'isopropanol, le n-butanol, l'isobutanol le t-butanol et plus particulièrement l'éthanol. The volatile alcohols according to the present invention are preferably selected from lower monohydric alcohols in Cl-05 may be selected from methanol, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, n-butanol, isobutanol t-butanol and more especially ethanol.
Le ou les alcools volatils sont présents de préférence dans des quantités allant de 40 à 80% et plus préférentiellement dans des quantités allant de 55 à 80% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The volatile alcohol (s) are preferably present in amounts ranging from 40 to 80% and more preferably in amounts ranging from 55 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Comme huiles siliconées volatiles, on peut citer par exemple les huiles de silicones linéaires ou cycliques volatiles, notamment celles ayant une viscosité 6 centistokes (6.10-6 m2/s), et ayant notamment de 2 à 10 atomes de silicium, ces silicones comportant éventuellement des groupes alkyles ou alkoxy ayant de 1 à 22 atomes de carbone. Comme huile de silicone volatile utilisable dans l'invention, on peut citer notamment l'octaméthyl cyclotétrasiloxane, le décaméthyl cyclopentasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl cyclohexasiloxane, l'heptaméthyl hexyltrisiloxane, l'heptaméthyloctyl trisiloxane, l'hexaméthyl disiloxane, l'octaméthyl trisiloxane, le décaméthyl tétrasiloxane, le dodécaméthyl pentasiloxane et leurs mélanges. As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, for example, of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 6 centistokes (6.10-6 m 2 / s), and having in particular 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
L'huile ou les huiles siliconées volatiles sont présentes de préférence de 40 à 98,5% de préférence dans des concentrations allant de 10% à 80 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. The volatile silicone oil or oils are present preferably from 40 to 98.5%, preferably in concentrations ranging from 10% to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
La composition de l'invention peut comprendre, en outre, tout additif usuellement utilisé dans le domaine des parfums choisi notamment parmi les antioxydants, les actifs cosmétiques ou dermatologiques comme par exemple les émollients ou adoucissants comme les huiles d'amande douce, de noyau d'abricot, les agents hydratants comme la glycérine, les agents apaisants comme l'a-bisabolol, l'allantoïne, aloes vera ; les vitamines, les acides gras essentiels, les agents répulsifs contre les insectes, les propulseurs, les peptisants,, des matières colorantes des nacres, des paillettes et leurs mélanges. La composition de l'invention peut contenir également des adjuvants habituels dans le domaine cosmétique ou dermatologique tels que les gélifiants hydrophiles ou lipophiles, les conservateurs (par exemple phenoxyethanol et parabens), les solvants, les charges, les bactéricides. Les quantités de ces différents adjuvants sont celles classiquement utilisées dans le domaine considéré, et par exemple de 0,01 à 20 % du poids total de la composition. The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in the field of perfumes chosen in particular from antioxidants, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, for example emollients or softeners, such as sweet almond oil, apricot, moisturizing agents such as glycerin, soothing agents such as a-bisabolol, allantoin, aloes vera; vitamins, essential fatty acids, insect repellents, propellants, peptizers, nacre dyestuffs, flakes and mixtures thereof. The composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic or dermatological field such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives (for example phenoxyethanol and parabens), solvents, fillers, bactericides. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition.
Parmi les antioxydants, on peut citer par exemple le BHA (tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole), le BHT (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-crésol), les tocophérols comme la vitamine E et ses dérivés tels que l'acétate de tocophéryle. La composition selon l'invention peut notamment comprendre au moins une matière colorante comme les matières pulvérulentes, les colorants liposolubles, les colorants hydrosolubles. Among the antioxidants, mention may be made, for example, of BHA (tert-butyl-4-hydroxyanisole), BHT (2,6-di-tert-butyl-p-cresol), tocopherols such as vitamin E and its derivatives such as tocopheryl acetate. The composition according to the invention may especially comprise at least one dyestuff, such as pulverulent materials, fat-soluble dyes and water-soluble dyes.
30 Les matières colorantes pulvérulentes peuvent être choisies parmi les pigments et les nacres. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.
Les pigments peuvent être blancs ou colorés, minéraux et/ou organiques, enrobés ou non. On peut citer, parmi les pigments minéraux, le dioxyde de titane, éventuellement 35 traité en surface, les oxydes de zirconium, de zinc ou de cérium, ainsi que les oxydes de fer ou de chrome, le violet de manganèse, le bleu outremer, l'hydrate de chrome et le bleu ferrique. Parmi les pigments organiques, on peut citer le noir de carbone, les pigments de type D & C, et les laques à base de carmin de cochenille, de baryum, strontium, calcium, aluminium. 40 Les nacres peuvent être choisies parmi les pigments nacrés blancs tels que le mica recouvert de titane ou d'oxychlorure de bismuth, les pigments nacrés colorés tels que le mica titane avec des oxydes de fer, le mica titane avec notamment du bleu ferrique ou de l'oxyde de chrome, le mica titane avec un pigment organique du type précité ainsi que les 45 pigments nacrés à base d'oxychlorure de bismuth. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pearlescent agents may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as 45 pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
Les colorants solubles sont par exemple : le caramel, Yellow 5 , Acid Blue 9/ Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3 / Fast Green FCF 3, Orange 4, Red 4 / Food Red 1, Yellow 6, Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12, Red 40, le carmine de cochenille (Cl 15850, Cl 75470), Ext. Violet 2, 50 Red 6-7, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines, Acide Yellow 3 / Yellow 10, Acid Blue 3, Yellow 10. Soluble dyes are, for example: Caramel, Yellow 5, Acid Blue 9 / Blue 1, Green 5, Green 3 / Fast Green FCF 3, Orange 4, Red 4 / Food Red 1, Yellow 6, Acid Red 33 / Food Red 12, Red 40, cochineal carmine (Cl 15850, Cl 75470), Ext. Purple 2, 50 Red 6-7, Ferric Ferrocyanide, Ultramarines, Yellow 3 / Yellow 10 Acid, Acid Blue 3, Yellow 10.
Les colorants liposolubles sont par exemple le rouge Soudan, le D&C Red 17, le D&C Green 6, le [3-carotène, l'huile de soja, le brun Soudan, le D&C Yellow 11, le D&C Violet 2, 55 le D&C Orange 5, le jaune quinoléine, le rocou.25 L'invention s'applique non seulement aux produits parfumants mais aussi aux produits de soin, de traitement du corps, de la peau, du visage, des lèvres, des ongles y compris des cheveux et du cuir chevelu contenant une substance odorante. La composition selon l'invention peut ainsi constituer une composition de parfumage, de soin, de traitement des matières kératiniques, et notamment se présenter sous forme d'eau fraîche, d'eau de toilette, d'eau de parfum, de lotion après-rasage, d'eau de soin, d'huile de soin siliconée ou hydrosiliconée, de produits d'hygiène comme les gels douvhes, les produits pour le bain, les shampooings, les scrubs. Elle peut également se présenter sous la forme d'une lotion biphasique ou tri-phasique parfumante (phase eau de toilette/phase huile hydrocarbonée et/ou huile siliconée et/ou huile fluorée). Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, 55 D & C Orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto.25 The invention applies not only to perfuming products but also to care products, treatment of the body, skin, face, lips, nails including hair and scalp containing an odoriferous substance. The composition according to the invention may thus constitute a composition for perfuming, caring for and treating keratin materials, and in particular be in the form of fresh water, eau de toilette, eau de parfum, lotion afterwards. shaving, care water, silicone or hydrosilicone care oil, hygiene products such as teething gels, bath products, shampoos, scrubs. It may also be in the form of a biphasic lotion or three-phase perfuming (toilet phase / hydrocarbon oil phase and / or silicone oil and / or fluorinated oil) phase.
L'invention a encore pour objet un procédé cosmétique de parfumage des matières kératiniques des êtres humains et notamment de la peau, des lèvres et des phanères, comprenant l'application sur les matières kératiniques de la composition telle que définie ci-dessus. The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for perfuming keratinous substances of human beings and in particular of the skin, lips and superficial body growths, comprising the application to the keratin materials of the composition as defined above.
La composition selon l'invention peut être fabriquée par les procédés connus, généralement utilisés dans le domaine des compositions parfumées. The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the field of perfume compositions.
Les compositions selon l'invention peuvent être conditionnées sous forme de flacons. Elles peuvent également être appliquées sous forme de fines particules au moyen de dispositifs de pressurisation. Les dispositifs conformes à l'invention sont bien connus de l'homme de l'art et comprennent les pompes non-aérosols ou "atomiseurs", les récipients aérosols comprenant un propulseur ainsi que les pompes aérosols utilisant l'air comprimé comme propulseur. Ces derniers sont décrits dans les brevets US 4,077,441 et US 4,850,517 (faisant partie intégrante du contenu de la description). The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in the form of flasks. They can also be applied as fine particles by means of pressurizing devices. The devices according to the invention are well known to those skilled in the art and include non-aerosol pumps or "atomizers", aerosol containers comprising a propellant and aerosol pumps using compressed air as a propellant. These are described in US Pat. Nos. 4,077,441 and 4,850,517 (which forms an integral part of the content of the description).
Les compositions conditionnées en aérosol conformes à l'invention contiennent en général des agents propulseurs conventionnels tels que par exemple les composés hydrofluorés le dichlorodifluorométhane, le difluoroéthane, le diméthyléther, l'isobutane, le n-butane, le propane, le trichlorofluorométhane. The aerosol-conditioned compositions in accordance with the invention generally contain conventional propellants such as, for example, hydrofluorinated compounds, dichlorodifluoromethane, difluoroethane, dimethyl ether, isobutane, n-butane, propane and trichlorofluoromethane.
Les compositions parfumantes selon l'invention se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques classiquement utilisées pour une application topique et notamment sous forme de solutions aqueuse ou hydroalcooliques, d'émulsions huile-dans-eau (H/E) ou eau-dans-huile (E/H) ou multiple (triple : E/H/E ou H/E/H), de gels aqueux, de produits anhydres deshydratés comme des poudres parfumantes libres ou compactes, ou de dispersions d'une phase huileuse dans une phase aqueuse à l'aide de vésicules lipidiques de type ionique (liposomes) et/ou non ionique. Ces compositions sont préparées selon les méthodes usuelles. The perfume compositions according to the invention can be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used for topical application and especially in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solutions, oil-in-water (O / W) or water-in-oil emulsions ( W / O) or multiple (triple: W / O / W or W / O / H), aqueous gels, dehydrated anhydrous products such as free or compact perfume powders, or dispersions of an oily phase in an aqueous phase using lipid vesicles of ionic type (liposomes) and / or nonionic. These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
En outre, les compositions selon l'invention peuvent être plus ou moins fluides et avoir l'aspect d'une crème, d'une pommade, d'un lait, d'une lotion, d'un sérum, d'une pâte, d'une mousse. Elles peuvent aussi se présenter sous forme solide, et par exemple sous forme de stick. In addition, the compositions according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, of a foam. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.
Quand la composition selon l'invention comporte une phase huileuse, celle-ci contient de préférence au moins une huile, notamment une huile physiologiquement acceptable. Elle peut contenir en outre d'autres corps gras. When the composition according to the invention comprises an oily phase, it preferably contains at least one oil, in particular a physiologically acceptable oil. It may also contain other fatty substances.
Comme huiles utilisables dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple : - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine animale, telles que le perhydrosqualène ; - les huiles hydrocarbonées d'origine végétale, telles que les triglycérides liquides d'acides gras comportant de 4 à 10 atomes de carbone comme les triglycérides des acides heptanoïque ou octanoïque ou encore, par exemple les huiles de tournesol, de maïs, de soja, de courge, de pépins de raisin, de sésame, de noisette, d'abricot, de macadamia, d'arara, de tournesol, de ricin, d'avocat, les triglycérides des acides caprylique/caprique comme ceux vendus par la société Stearineries Dubois ou ceux vendus sous les dénominations Miglyol 810, 812 et 818 par la société Dynamit Nobel, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile de beurre de karité; -les esters et les éthers de synthèse, notamment d'acides gras, comme les huiles de formules R'COOR2 et R,OR2 dans laquelle R' représente le reste d'un acide gras comportant de 8 à 29 atomes de carbone, et R2 représente une chaîne hydrocarbonée, ramifiée ou non, contenant de 3 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme par exemple l'huile de Purcellin, l'isononanoate d'isononyle, le myristate d'isopropyle, le palmitate d'éthyl-2-hexyle, le stéarate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'érucate d'octyl-2-dodécyle, l'isostéarated'isostéaryle ; les esters hydroxylés comme l'isostéaryl lactate, l'octylhydroxystéarate, l'hydroxystéarate d'octyldodécyle, le diisostéaryl-malate, le citrate de triisocétyle, les heptanoates, octanoates, décanoates d'alcools gras ; les esters de polyol, comme le dioctanoate de propylène glycol, le diheptanoate de néopentylglycol et le diisononanoate de diéthylèneglycol ; et les esters du pentaérythritol comme le tétraisostéarate de pentaérythrityle ; - les hydrocarbures linéaires ou ramifiés, d'origine minérale ou synthétique, tels que les huiles de paraffine, volatiles ou non, et leurs dérivés, la vaseline, les polydécènes, le polyisobutène hydrogéné tel que l'huile de Parléam ; - les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétylstéarylique), l'octyldodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol, l'alcool oléique ou l'alcool linoléique ; - les huiles fluorées partiellement hydrocarbonées et/ou siliconées comme celles décrites dans le document JP-A-2-295912 ; - les huiles de silicone comme les polyméthylsiloxanes (PDMS) volatiles ou non à chaîne siliconée linéaire ou cyclique, liquides ou pâteux à température ambiante, notamment les cyclopolydiméthylsiloxanes (cyclométhicones) telles que la cyclohexasiloxane ; les polydiméthylsiloxanes comportant des groupements alkyle, alcoxy ou phényle, pendant ou en bout de chaîne siliconée, groupements ayant de 2 à 24 atomes de carbone ; les silicones phénylées comme les phényltriméthicones, les phényldiméthicones, les phényltriméthylsiloxydiphényl-siloxanes, les diphényl-diméthicones, les diphénylméthyldiphényl trisiloxanes, les 2-phényléthyltriméthyl-siloxysilicates, et les polyméthylphénylsiloxanes ; - leurs mélanges. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R, OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearyl; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.
On entend par huile hydrocarbonée dans la liste des huiles citées ci-dessus, toute huile comportant majoritairement des atomes de carbone et d'hydrogène, et éventuellement des groupements ester, éther, fluoré, acide carboxylique et/ou alcool. By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.
Les autres corps gras pouvant être présents dans la phase huileuse sont par exemple les acides gras comportant de 8 à 30 atomes de carbone, comme l'acide stéarique, l'acide laurique, l'acide palmitique et l'acide oléique ; les cires comme la lanoline, la cire d'abeille, la cire de Carnauba ou de Candellila, les cires de paraffine, de lignite ou les cires microcristallines, la cérésine ou l'ozokérite, les cires synthétiques comme les cires de polyéthylène, les cires de Fischer-Tropsch ; les résines de silicone telles que la trifluorométhyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone et la trifluoropropyldimethicone ; et les élastomères de silicone comme les produits commercialisés sous les dénominations KSG par la société Shin-Etsu, sous les dénominations Trefil , BY29 ou EPSX par la société Dow Corning ou sous les dénominations Gransil par la société Grant Industries. The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes Fischer-Tropsch; silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyldimethicone; and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names KSG by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names Trefil, BY29 or EPSX by the company Dow Corning or under the names Gransil by the company Grant Industries.
Ces corps gras peuvent être choisis de manière variée par l'homme du métier afin de préparer une composition ayant les propriétés, par exemple de consistance ou de texture, souhaitées. These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
Les émulsions contiennent généralement au moins un émulsionnant choisi parmi les émulsionnants amphotères, anioniques, cationiques ou non ioniques, utilisés seuls ou en mélange. Les émulsionnants sont choisis de manière appropriée suivant la phase continue de l'émulsion à obtenir (E/H ou H/E). Quand l'émulsion est multiple, elle comporte généralement un émulsionnant dans l'émulsion primaire et un émulsionnant dans la phase externe dans laquelle est introduite l'émulsion primaire. The emulsions generally contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the continuous phase of the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or O / W). When the emulsion is multiple, it generally comprises an emulsifier in the primary emulsion and an emulsifier in the external phase into which the primary emulsion is introduced.
Comme émulsionnants utilisables pour la préparation des émulsions E/H, on peut citer par exemple les alkyl esters ou éthers de sorbitan, de glycérol ou de sucres ; les tensioactifs siliconés comme les dimethicone copolyols tels que le mélange de cyclomethicone et de dimethicone copolyol, vendu sous les dénominations DC 5225 C et DC 3225 C par la société Dow Corning, et comme les alkyl-dimethicone copolyols tels que le Laurylmethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" par la société Dow Corning, le Cetyl dimethicone copolyol vendu sous la dénomination Abil EM 90R par la société Goldschmidt et le mélange de Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/Cetyl dimethicone copolyol/Hexyl laurate vendu sous la dénomination Abil WE 09R par la société Goldschmidt. On peut y ajouter aussi un ou plusieurs coémulsionnants, qui, de manière avantageuse, peuvent être choisis dans le groupe comprenant les esters d'acide gras à chaîne ramifiée et de polyol, et notamment les esters d'acide gras à chaîne ramifiée et de glycérol et/ou de sorbitan et par exemple l'isostéarate de polyglycéryle, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Isolan GI 34 par la société Goldschmidt, l'isostéarate de sorbitan, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 987 par la société ICI, l'isostéarate de sorbitan et de glycérol, tel que le produit commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 986 par la société ICI, et leurs mélanges. As emulsifiers that can be used for the preparation of W / O emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol or of sugars; silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol, sold under the names DC 5225 C and DC 3225 C by the company Dow Corning, and as alkyl dimethicone copolyols such as Laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name "Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid" by Dow Corning, Cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90R by the company Goldschmidt and the mixture of Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate / Cetyl dimethicone copolyol / Hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE 09R by Goldschmidt. It is also possible to add one or more coemulsifiers, which advantageously may be chosen from the group comprising branched chain fatty acid and polyol esters, and in particular the branched-chain and glycerol fatty acid esters. and / or sorbitan and for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by the company ICI , sorbitan isostearate and glycerol, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by the company ICI, and mixtures thereof.
Comme émulsionnants utilisables pour la préparation des émulsions H/E, on peut citer par exemple les émulsionnants non ioniques tels que les esters d'acides gras et de polyols oxyalkylénés (plus particulièrement polyoxyéthylénés), et par exemple les stéarates de polyéthylène glycol comme le stéarate de PEG-100, le stéarate de PEG-50 et le stéarate de PEG-40 ; et leurs mélanges tels que le mélange de mono-stéarate de glycéryle et de stéarate de polyéthylène glycol (100 0E) commercialisé sous la dénomination SIMULSOL 165 par la société SEPPIC ; les esters d'acides gras et de sorbitan oxyalkylénés comprenant par exemple de 20 à 100 0E, et par exemple ceux commercialisés sous les dénominations commerciales Tween 20 ou Tween 60 par la société Ubiqema ; les éthers d'alcools gras oxyalkylénés (oxyéthylénés et/ou oxypropylénés) ; les esters de sucres comme le stéarate de sucrose ; et leurs mélanges comme par exemple le mélange de stéarate de glycéryle et de stéarate de PEG-100, commercialisé sous la dénomination Arlacel 165 par la société Uniqema. As emulsifiers that may be used for the preparation of O / W emulsions, mention may be made, for example, of nonionic emulsifiers such as oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of polyols (more particularly polyoxyethylenated), and for example polyethylene glycol stearates such as stearate. PEG-100, PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 stearate; and mixtures thereof such as the mixture of glyceryl mono-stearate and of polyethylene glycol stearate (100 OE) marketed under the name SIMULSOL 165 by the company SEPPIC; esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and of sorbitan comprising, for example, from 20 to 100%, and for example those sold under the trade names Tween 20 or Tween 60 by the company Ubiqema; oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); sugar esters such as sucrose stearate; and mixtures thereof, for example the mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Uniqema.
On peut ajouter à ces émulsionnants, des co-émulsionnants tels que par exemple les alcools gras ayant de 8 à 26 atomes de carbone, comme l'alcool cétylique, l'alcool stéarylique et leur mélange (alcool cétéarylique), l'octyl dodécanol, le 2-butyloctanol, le 2-hexyldécanol, le 2-undécylpentadécanol ou l'alcool oléique. Co-emulsifiers such as, for example, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, may be added to these emulsifiers. 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol or oleic alcohol.
On peut aussi préparer des émulsions sans tensioactifs émulsionnants ou en contenant moins de 0,5 % du poids total de la composition, en utilisant des composés appropriés, par exemple les polymères ayant des propriétés émulsionnantes tels que les polymères commercialisés sous les dénominations Carbopol 1342 et Pemulen par la société Noveon ; ou les polymères et copolymères d'acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique, éventuellement réticulés et/ou neutralisés, comme le poly(acide 2-acrylamido 2-méthylpropane sulfonique) commercialisé par la société CLARIANT sous la dénomination Hostacerin AMPS (nom CTFA : ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) ou comme le polymère en émulsion commercialisé sous la dénomination Sepigel 305 par la société Seppic (nom INCI : Polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffine / laureth-7) ; les particules de polymères ioniques ou non ioniques, plus particulièrement des particules de polymère anionique comme notamment les polymères d'acide isophtalique ou d'acide sulfoisophtalique, et en particulier les copolymères de phtalate / sulfoisophtalate / glycol (par exemple diéthylèneglycol / Phtalate / isophtalate/1,4-cyclohexane-diméthanol (nom INCI : Diglycol/ CHDM/l sophtalates/ SIP Copolymer) vendus sous les dénominations Eastman AQ polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) par la société Eastman Chemical. It is also possible to prepare emulsions without emulsifying surfactants or containing less than 0.5% of the total weight of the composition, by using suitable compounds, for example polymers having emulsifying properties such as the polymers sold under the names Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen by the company Noveon; or polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide) or as the emulsion polymer sold under the name Sepigel 305 by the company Seppic (INCI name: polyacrylamide / C13-C14 isoparaffin / laureth-7); ionic or nonionic polymer particles, more particularly anionic polymer particles such as in particular isophthalic acid or sulfoisophthalic acid polymers, and in particular phthalate / sulfoisophthalate / glycol copolymers (for example diethylene glycol / phthalate / isophthalate / 1,4-cyclohexane dimethanol (INCI name: Diglycol / CHDM / l sophthalates / SIP Copolymer) sold under the names Eastman AQ polymer (AQ35S, AQ38S, AQ55S, AQ48 Ultra) by the company Eastman Chemical.
On peut aussi préparer des émulsions sans émulsionnants, stabilisées par des particules siliconées ou des particules d'oxyde métallique tels que TiO2 ou autres. It is also possible to prepare emulsions without emulsifiers, stabilized by silicone particles or metal oxide particles such as TiO 2 or others.
Comme charges qui peuvent être utilisées dans la composition de l'invention, on peut citer par exemple, outre les pigments, la poudre de silice ; le talc ; les particules de polyamide et notamment celles vendues sous la dénomination ORGASOL par la société Atochem ; les poudres de polyéthylène ; les poudres de matériaux organiques naturels tels que les poudres d'amidon, notamment d'amidons de maïs, de blé ou de riz, réticulés ou non, telles que les poudres d'amidon réticulé par l'anhydride octénylsuccinate, commercialisées sous la dénomination DRY-FLO par la société National Starch ; les micro-sphères à base de copolymères acryliques, telles que celles en copolymère diméthacrylate d'éthylène glycol/ methacrylate de lauryle vendues par la société Dow Corning sous la dénomination de POLYTRAP ; les poudres expansées telles que les microsphères creuses et notamment, les microsphères commercialisées sous la dénomination EXPANCEL par la société Kemanord Plast ou sous la dénomination MICROPEARL F 80 ED par la société Matsumoto ; les microbilles de résine de silicone telles que celles commercialisées sous la dénomination TOSPEARL par la société Toshiba Silicone ; et leurs mélanges. Ces charges peuvent être présentes dans des quantités allant de 0 à 20 % en poids et de préférence de 1 à 10 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition. As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or otherwise, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY -FLO by the company National Starch; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
L'invention va maintenant être décrite en référence aux exemples suivants donnés à titre illustratif et non limitatif. Dans ces exemples, sauf indication contraire, les quantités sont exprimées en pourcentages pondéraux. On a réalisé les formulations parfumées suivantes ; les quantités sont indiquées en pourcentages en poids : Exemples The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as percentages by weight. The following scented formulations were made; the quantities are indicated in percentages by weight: Examples
TESTS COMPARATIFS DE STABILITE DE L'ODEUR ET DE LA COULEUR Principe COMPARATIVE TESTS OF STABILITY OF ODOR AND COLOR Principle
Le principe de ces essais consiste à exposer les produits à tester à une source lumineuse irradiante dont la répartition spectrale est parfaitement définie et l'énergie émise parfaitement quantifiée. The principle of these tests consists of exposing the products to be tested to an irradiating light source whose spectral distribution is perfectly defined and the energy emitted perfectly quantified.
Les sources lumineuses couramment utilisées sont des lampes au xénon émettant au travers - un filtre en quartz platiné qui détourne le rayonnement infra rouge et l'élimine vers le haut de l'appareil - et un filtre en verre, qui en absorbant le rayonnement ultra violet court permet de simuler le rayonnement reçu derrière une vitrine d'exposition. The commonly used light sources are xenon lamps emitting through - a platinum quartz filter that diverts infrared radiation and eliminates it to the top of the device - and a glass filter, which absorbs the ultra-violet radiation short simulates the radiation received behind an exhibition window.
Matériel On utilise un appareil CPS Sun -test : - L'éclairement fourni par une lampe au xénon entre 300 et 800nm est fixé à 765W/m2 (valeur réglée par le constructeur) - La filtration optique est assurée par d'un filtre quartz avec revêtement IR et un verre à vitres spécial) On observe à l'oeil nu la couleur de chaque flacon avant et après exposition à la lumière au Sun Test après 16 heures à température ambiante. Equipment A CPS Sun -test device is used: - The illumination provided by a xenon lamp between 300 and 800nm is fixed at 765W / m2 (value set by the manufacturer) - The optical filtration is ensured by a quartz filter with IR coating and a special glass pane) The color of each vial before and after exposure to light is observed with the naked eye after 16 hours at room temperature.
On effectue également un test olfactif sniff test sur un panel de 5 personnes sur les échantillons à To et après 2 mois à température ambiante et à 45 C. An olfactory test sniff test is also performed on a panel of 5 people on the samples at To and after 2 months at room temperature and at 45 C.
Tableau récapitulatif des essais : Composition 1a (*) 1b (*) 1c (*) 1d (invention) Concentré de parfum x 15 % 15 % 15 % 15 % Ethanol 65 % 65 % 65 % 65 0/0 Colorants qs qs qs qs 2-(4-diéthylamino-2- 1% 0 0 0 hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle (Uvinul A+) Mélange de 2-(4-diéthylamino- 0 1% 0 1 2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle et de Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 35/65 (Uvinul A + B) Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0 0 0,3 % 0,3 (Parsol 1789) Eau qsp 100 % qsp 100 % qsp 100 % qsp 100 % (*) hors invention Résultats : Essai la : Summary table of tests: Composition 1a (*) 1b (*) 1c (*) 1d (invention) Perfume concentrate x 15% 15% 15% 15% Ethanol 65% 65% 65% 65 0/0 Colorants qs qs qs qs N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-yl) hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate (Uvinul A +) Mixture of n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-1-ol-1-hydroxybenzoyl) -benzoate and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 35/65 (Uvinul A + B) Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.3% 0.3 (Parsol 1789) Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% (*) outside the invention Results: Test la:
Résultat à To : obtention d'un parfum de couleur jaune d'or et odeur agréable. Résultat de suntest 16 h : dégradation de la couleur = décoloration --- Observation 2 mois 45 C : altération très nette de l'odeur, odeur piquante, --- Result to To: obtaining a golden-yellow perfume and pleasant smell. Result of suntest 16 h: color degradation = discoloration --- Observation 2 months 45 C: very sharp odor alteration, pungent odor, ---
Essai 1 b : Résultat à To : obtention d'un parfum de couleur jaune d'or et odeur agréable Résultat de suntest 16 h : dégradation de la couleur = décoloration --Observation 2 mois 45 C : dégradation de l'odeur -- Test 1b: Result at To: obtaining a golden-yellow perfume and pleasant odor Result of suntest 16 h: color degradation = discoloration --Observation 2 months 45 C: degradation of the odor -
Essai 1 c : Résultat à To : obtention d'un parfum de couleur jaune d'or et odeur agréable Résultat de suntest 16 h : dégradation de la couleur = décoloration (---) Observation 2 mois 45 C : dégradation très nette de l'odeur (---) Test 1 c: Result at To: obtaining a golden-yellow perfume and pleasant odor Result of suntest 16 h: color degradation = discoloration (---) Observation 2 months 45 C: very marked degradation of the 'odour (---)
Essai 1 d (selon l'invention): Résultat à To : obtention d'un parfum de couleur jaune d'or et odeur agréable Résultat de suntest 16 h : Maintien de la couleur initiale. Observation 2 mois 45 C : Très faible évolution d'odeur.(-) Test 1 d (according to the invention): Result at To: obtaining a golden-yellow perfume and pleasant odor Result of suntest 16 h: Maintenance of the initial color. Observation 2 months 45 C: Very weak evolution of odor (-)
On observe que la composition 1d selon l'invention comprenant l'association 2-(4- diéthylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)-benzoate de n-hexyle/ Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate/ Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane présente une odeur et une couleur stables à l'exposition de lumière et au stockage à 45 C contrairement aux compositions la, 1 b et 1c (hors invention). 14 It is observed that the composition 1d according to the invention comprising the combination of n-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate / Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate / Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane has a smell and a color that are stable to the exposure of light and storage 45 C unlike compositions 1a, 1b and 1c (except invention). 14
Claims (12)
Priority Applications (6)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR0755152A FR2916346B1 (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2007-05-21 | FRAGRANCE COMPRISING THE ASSOCIATION OF A FILTER OF THE HYDROXYAMINOBENZOPHENONE TYPE, A FILTER OF THE CINNAMATE TYPE AND A FILTER OF THE DIBENZOYLMETHANE TYPE |
RU2008120045/15A RU2375042C1 (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2008-05-20 | Perfume composition, containing combination of filter of hydroxyaminobenzophenone type, filter b of cinnamate type, and compound c of piperidinol, benzotriazole or dibenzoylmethane type |
EP08156547A EP1994921A1 (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2008-05-20 | Fragrance composition comprising the combination of one filter A hydroxyaminobenzophenone, one filter B cinnamate and of one compound C piperidinole, benzotriazole or dibenzoylmethane |
MX2008006566A MX2008006566A (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2008-05-21 | Fragrance composition comprising the combination of one filter a hydroxyaminobenzophenone, one filter b cinnamate and of one compound c piperidinole, benzotriazole or dibenzoylmethane. |
US12/124,865 US20090136436A1 (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2008-05-21 | Fragrancing composition comprising the combination of a hydroxyaminobenzophenone screen a, a cinnamate screen b and a piperidinol, benzotriazole or dibenzoylmethane compound c |
BRPI0802596-7A BRPI0802596A2 (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2008-05-21 | perfuming composition, use of at least one filter combination to and cosmetic process of perfuming human keratin materials |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
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FR0755152A FR2916346B1 (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2007-05-21 | FRAGRANCE COMPRISING THE ASSOCIATION OF A FILTER OF THE HYDROXYAMINOBENZOPHENONE TYPE, A FILTER OF THE CINNAMATE TYPE AND A FILTER OF THE DIBENZOYLMETHANE TYPE |
Publications (2)
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FR2916346A1 true FR2916346A1 (en) | 2008-11-28 |
FR2916346B1 FR2916346B1 (en) | 2009-08-21 |
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FR0755152A Active FR2916346B1 (en) | 2007-05-21 | 2007-05-21 | FRAGRANCE COMPRISING THE ASSOCIATION OF A FILTER OF THE HYDROXYAMINOBENZOPHENONE TYPE, A FILTER OF THE CINNAMATE TYPE AND A FILTER OF THE DIBENZOYLMETHANE TYPE |
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2978037A1 (en) * | 2011-07-21 | 2013-01-25 | Lvmh Rech | ULTRAVIOLET ADDITIVE COMPRISING A UVA FILTER, A UVB FILTER AND AN OIL SOLVING THESE FILTERS, ITS USE IN COLORED AND / OR SCENTED COMPOSITIONS. |
EP2599472A1 (en) | 2011-07-21 | 2013-06-05 | LvmH Recherche | Perfuming solution stabilized with respect to ultraviolet radiation |
WO2016064971A1 (en) * | 2014-10-21 | 2016-04-28 | 3 V Incorporated | Anti-color fading and fragrance protection compositions |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH10279457A (en) * | 1997-03-31 | 1998-10-20 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Perfume stabilizing composition |
WO2005123013A1 (en) * | 2004-06-15 | 2005-12-29 | Basf Aktiengesellschaft | Stabilisation of colorants in cosmetic and dermatological preparations |
DE202006001274U1 (en) * | 2006-01-24 | 2006-03-30 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic preparation, useful e.g. to treat and care skin and/or hairs, comprises volatile lipids and perfume oils (oils of e.g. sweet orange, bitter orange, bergamot, tangerine, lavender, rosemary, nutmeg, cardamom and Tonka bean) |
-
2007
- 2007-05-21 FR FR0755152A patent/FR2916346B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPH10279457A (en) * | 1997-03-31 | 1998-10-20 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Perfume stabilizing composition |
WO2005123013A1 (en) * | 2004-06-15 | 2005-12-29 | Basf Aktiengesellschaft | Stabilisation of colorants in cosmetic and dermatological preparations |
DE202006001274U1 (en) * | 2006-01-24 | 2006-03-30 | Beiersdorf Ag | Cosmetic preparation, useful e.g. to treat and care skin and/or hairs, comprises volatile lipids and perfume oils (oils of e.g. sweet orange, bitter orange, bergamot, tangerine, lavender, rosemary, nutmeg, cardamom and Tonka bean) |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
---|
DATABASE WPI Week 199901, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 1999-005143, XP002468224 * |
Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2978037A1 (en) * | 2011-07-21 | 2013-01-25 | Lvmh Rech | ULTRAVIOLET ADDITIVE COMPRISING A UVA FILTER, A UVB FILTER AND AN OIL SOLVING THESE FILTERS, ITS USE IN COLORED AND / OR SCENTED COMPOSITIONS. |
EP2599472A1 (en) | 2011-07-21 | 2013-06-05 | LvmH Recherche | Perfuming solution stabilized with respect to ultraviolet radiation |
US8771653B2 (en) | 2011-07-21 | 2014-07-08 | Lvmh Recherche | Anti-ultraviolet additive comprising a UVA filter, a UVB filter and an oil that is a solvent for said filters, and use thereof in coloured and/or perfumed compositions |
US8772224B2 (en) | 2011-07-21 | 2014-07-08 | Lvmh Recherche | Perfuming solution stabilized with respect to ultraviolet radiation |
US9624431B2 (en) | 2011-07-21 | 2017-04-18 | Lvmh Recherche | Anti-ultraviolet additive comprising a UVA filter, a UVB filter and an oil that is a solvent for said filters, and use thereof in coloured and/or perfumed compositions |
WO2016064971A1 (en) * | 2014-10-21 | 2016-04-28 | 3 V Incorporated | Anti-color fading and fragrance protection compositions |
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FR2916346B1 (en) | 2009-08-21 |
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