FR3101548A1 - Process for preparing perfume compounds for stereo olfaction - Google Patents

Abstract

Method for preparing two aromatic concentrates (C1, C2), intended to be sprayed simultaneously in adjacent zones to create a spatialized perfume, the method being characterized in that: one or more first aromatic components (M1) called de base or structure, which is inserted, in an identical quantity, into a first container (F1) and into a second container (F2), one or more second aromatic components (M2) are available which are inserted , in differentiated amounts, in the first container and in the second container, there is at least one third aromatic component (M3) which is inserted into only one of the first and / or second containers. Figure for the abstract: 1

Description

Process for preparing perfume compounds for stereo olfaction

The present invention relates to processes for the preparation of perfume compounds, in particular of a pair of perfume compounds, intended to be sprayed together to stimulate the stereo olfaction or stereo-osmia of an individual similar to that experienced in nature. during an olfactory walk.

Background and Prior Art

In document FR3060952, the present applicant disclosed a device and a method for simultaneously dispensing two different odorous products, the method being characterized in that a first odorous product is dispensed near or intended for a first nostril of a individual, and a second scent product is dispensed near or intended for the second nostril of the individual, so that this provision provides the individual with a stereoscopic olfactory perception from these scent products similar to that experienced in nature during an olfactory walk.

A need has arisen to provide a method for making available the first and second aromatic or odorous products intended to be sprayed simultaneously in adjacent zones in order to create a spatialized perfume.

To this end, a new process is proposed here for the creation of a perfume in stereo-olfaction.

In the traditional process of creating a perfume, the perfumer, also known as the "nose", has odorous raw materials that he mixes to obtain a perfume concentrate. Odorous materials are either natural materials, or synthetic materials (molecules), or reference mixtures of fragrant materials commonly called bases (rose base, woody base, etc.) composed of a certain proportion of materials. first fragrant, natural or synthetic and specific to each house of fragrance composition and / or specific to each perfumer. The perfumer makes a personal selection of scent materials, chooses the proportions of each, weighs them and thus composes the perfume concentrate which represents his formula F0. In this traditional method, the perfumer writes a single formula per perfume and composes a single C0 concentrate per perfume. This concentrate C0 will subsequently be diluted in a solvent (an alcohol or any other solvent material such as a glycol or an oil) in order to be marketed.

A different process (method) is proposed here for giving a perfume a 3D or stereo-olfactory effect, the name of which is “stereOscent ™ technology”.

The process consists of writing and creating not just one but two formulas each comprising:

- the same olfactory ingredients but in different proportions,

-or olfactory similar elements, belonging to the same olfactory family such as the hesperidia family: essences of lemon, bigarade (bitter orange), tangerine, sweet orange.

-or finally a combination of the 2 methods above.

To fully understand the process, we refer to an olfactory walk in a fragrant garden: roses and jasmine may be on your right, lavender and lemon rather on your left as you walk on sandy soil covered with needles. of pine. Each of the nostrils will receive its own olfactory information IOg for the left nostril and IOd for the right nostril. These 2 pieces of information are similar but not identical. This slight difference, processed by the brain, causes the natural or 3D olfactory stereo effect.

The average olfactory information emitted by each of the fragrant materials in our garden (rose, jasmine, lemon, lavender and pine) has a certain average fragrant value that we will set in principle at 100. The value of the information olfactory of rose and jasmine felt by the right nostril is going to be higher than average, say 120% of the average while the olfactory information of rose and jasmine felt by the left nostril is going to be 80% of the average. average. Conversely, lemon and lavender will be felt by the right nostril at 70% of their average olfactory value, while the left nostril will feel 130% of their average olfactory value. As for the essences of pine needles, which are felt equally by the right and left nostrils, their olfactory value will be 100% for both the left and right nostrils and are considered to be structuring molecules. .

Coming back to the development of perfume formulas, the perfumer will create two similar but not identical FF1 and FF2 formulas resulting in the creation of two similar but not identical C1 and C2 concentrates. In each of these formulas FF1 and FF2, we will use either the same scent materials but in different proportions for each of the formulas FF1 and FF2, or different scent materials but olfactory similar, or finally a combination of the 2 previous methods. As far as we're concerned, the FF1 formula might contain 80mg of rose oil, 80mg of jasmine oil, 130mg of lemon oil, 130mg of lavender oil, and 100mg of pine oil. Formula FF2 could have 120mg of rose oil or similar essence like geraniol, 120mg of jasmine essence or similar essence like neroli, 70mg of lemon essence or similar essence such as bitter orange, 70mg of lavender oil or a similar molecule such as linalyl acetate and 100mg of pine oil, a structuring molecule, or a similar structuring essence such as sandalwood. The proportions can range from 0 to 1,000% but in general the proportions will be between 50% and 150%.

Expressed otherwise, a method is proposed for preparing two aromatic concentrates (C1, C2), which may be called 'mirrors' or 'conjugates', intended to be sprayed simultaneously in adjacent areas to create a spatialized fragrance, the process being characterized in that:

- we have one or more first aromatic components (M1) called basic or structural, which are inserted, in identical quantities, in a first container (F1) and in a second container (F2),

- we have one or more second aromatic components (M2) that we insert, in differentiated quantities, into the first container and into the second container.

Thanks to these provisions, we obtain a perfume composed of two formulas, one intended for the right nostril, the other intended for the left nostril and intended to reproduce the stereo-olfactory effect that every individual experiences in nature. .

The first aromatic components (M1) can be called "structuring molecules", and if we take the analogy of a walk in an olfactory garden, these are the scents of pine needles which are found in the middle of the walking path, then that we will perceive on the right and on the left differentiated scents.

Optionally, provision can be made to have at least one third aromatic component (M3) which is inserted into only one of the first and / or second containers.

In various embodiments of the invention, one and / or the other of the following provisions, taken individually or in combination, may optionally be used in addition.

According to one aspect, for each second aromatic component (M2i) inserted in a differentiated quantity, the ratio R2i of the respective quantities M2i1 and M2i2 inserted into the first container and into the second container, namely the ratio R2i = M2i1 / M2i2, is either greater to 1.1 is less than 0.9.

Preferably, the ratio R2i is between 1.1 and 2 or between 0.5 and 0.9. For better understanding, when this ratio is greater than 1, for example 1.5, the second aromatic component is more present in the first container than in the second container. When this ratio is less than 1, for example 0.7, the second aromatic component has a greater presence in the second container than in the first container.

According to one aspect, we start from a reference perfume formula (C0) from which we draw at least the first aromatic components (M1) and the second aromatic components (M2). It is thus possible to spatialize a well-known formula which is a reference in the world of perfumery; the perfume or fragrance in question will have its olfactory qualities increased by the effect of stereo olfaction, just as stereophonic reproduction increases the auditory qualities of a sound recording compared to monophony. To give just one example, we could spatialize a benchmark perfume formula like the Number 5 perfume by Chanel ™.

According to one aspect, it can be provided, for a third aromatic component (M3A) given, inserted only in the first aromatic concentrate (respectively the first container), another distinct third aromatic component (M3B), called mirror component, inserted only in the second aromatic concentrate (respectively second container). This reinforces the stereo olfaction effect, with an aromatic component felt on the left, a mirror of our aromatic component felt on the right.

According to one example, the third aromatic component (M3A) and the third mirror aromatic component (M3B) are respectively a rose oil and a geranium oil.

According to another example, the third aromatic component (M3A) and the third mirror aromatic component (M3B) are respectively a musk essence and an ambrette essence.

According to one example, the third aromatic component (M3A) and the third mirror aromatic component (M3B) are respectively an essence of violet and an essence of jasmine.

Of course, other pairs for the third mirror aromatic components can be considered.

In one aspect, the first and second aromatic concentrates (C1, C2) are diluted in a solvent, preferably alcohol-based, to form products that are easy to spray.

The present invention also relates to a pair of two aromatic concentrates obtained by the process according to one of the preceding claims.

The present invention also relates to a duo (a pair) of two bottles (F1, F2) comprising respective contents obtained by the method according to one of the preceding claims.

Description of figures

The invention will also be better understood with regard to the accompanying drawings in which:

- Figure 1 shows schematically the proposed process, in an example where we start from a reference perfume formula.

detailed description

In the various figures, the same references designate identical or similar elements.

In document FR3060952, the present applicant presented the interest of having two different odorous products. A first fragrant product is dispensed near or intended for a first nostril of an individual, and a second fragrant product is dispensed near or intended for the second nostril of the individual.

An advantageous aspect is disclosed here for producing the two different odorous products, which, while being different, have a certain number of similar characteristics.

Two aromatic concentrates are thus prepared (a first aromatic concentrate denoted C1 and a second aromatic concentrate denoted C2 ), intended to be sprayed simultaneously in adjacent zones to create a spatialized fragrance.

First aromatic components are inserted in an identical amount into each of the first and second aromatic concentrates C1 , C2 . The first aromatic components 1 are so-called base or structural components, or also “structuring molecules”. As illustrated in FIG. 1, the first aromatic components are designated by M1 and their set is denoted EM1 .

In other words, for these structuring molecules, the formulation of the first aromatic concentrate C1 is identical to the formulation of the second aromatic concentrate C2 .

In addition, second aromatic components are inserted in different amounts into each of the first and second aromatic concentrates C1 , C2 .

These second aromatic components are designated by the reference 2 or M2 and their whole is denoted EM2 .

In other words, unlike the case of the first components, for these second aromatic components M2 , the formulation of the first aromatic concentrate C1 is different from the formulation of the second aromatic concentrate C2 .

For each second aromatic component denoted M2i formulated in an amount differentiated between C1 and C2 , M2i1 is the proportion or the basis weight provided for the first aromatic concentrate C1 and M2i2 is the proportion or the basis weight provided for the second aromatic concentrate C2 .

The ratio R2i of the respective quantities M2i1 and M2i2, namely the ratio R2i = M2i1 / M2i2 , is either greater than 1.1 or less than 0.9, whether the proportion is expressed in milligrams or as a percentage by mass.

Preferably, the ratio R2i is either between 1.1 and 2, or between 0.5 and 0.9. For better understanding, when this ratio is greater than 1, for example 1.5, the second aromatic component is more present in the first aromatic concentrate than in the second aromatic concentrate. When this ratio is less than 1, for example 0.7, the second aromatic component has a greater presence in the second aromatic concentrate than in the first aromatic concentrate.

According to another example, the ratio R2i can be between 1.05 and 2 or between 0.5 and 0.95.

Optionally, a more marked differentiation is also provided for by the selective presence of an aromatic component. Thus at least one third aromatic component denoted M3 is provided which is included in only one of the first and / or second concentrates.

In other words, there is a third aromatic component M3 which is present either in the formulation of the first aromatic concentrate C1 or in the formulation of the second aromatic concentrate C2 but not in both.

In one example, couples of third aromatic component M3A , M3B , with M3A inserted only in the first aromatic concentrate, and M3B , called mirror component, inserted only in the second aromatic concentrate, are provided.

Referring to Figure 1, M3A can be embodied by component 31 and M3B can be embodied by component 32 .

As an example of a pair of mirror components, we can cite:

- an essence of musk and an essence of ambrette,

- an essence of rose and an essence of geranium

- an essence of violet and an essence of jasmine.

However, it should be noted that the present invention is not limited to particular pairs and can be applied to any pair, or to a component which is present only on one side without a mirror component.

To develop the first and second aromatic concentrates C1 , C2 , it is possible to start from a white sheet. According to another configuration, one starts from a reference formula denoted C0 (formula F0).

For example, for an Eau de Cologne, one starts from the following grammage structure, for a total dosage of 1000 mg.

Reference Formula F0 C0 (mg) FF1 Concentrate C1 formula (mg) FF2 Concentrate C2 formula (mg) Lemon 400 400 400 Musk 120 120 120 Bergamot 250 265 235 Bitter orange 100 80 120 Small grain 50 60 40 Lavender 50 40 60 Mandarin 30 35 25 total 1000 1000 1000

For example for bergamot, the ratio R2i = 235/265 = 0.886 and the inverse ratio is 265/235 = 1.127. For the other M2 type components, the ratios are, in the example considered, further from 1, in accordance with the range of values set out above.

With reference to FIG. 1, it can be seen that the first aromatic components 1 are found in identical quantities in C1 and C2 . Among the second aromatic components, the size of the bubbles represents the rate of presence of the component in the concentrate. Thus, component 2a is more present in C2 than in C1, it is the same for 2c and 2d. Conversely, component 2b is more present in C1 than in C2.

According to one aspect, in practice, the first and second aromatic concentrates C1 , C2 are diluted in a solvent, preferably based on an alcohol, to form products which are easy to spray.

Then the first aromatic concentrate diluted in its solvent is inserted into a first container F1 and the second aromatic concentrate diluted in its solvent is inserted into a second container F2 .

The present therefore relates to a pair of two aromatic concentrates C1, C2 obtained by the process described above and a duo (a pair) of two flasks (F1, F2) comprising respective contents obtained by the process described above.

Claims (10)

1. Method to prepare two aromatic concentrates (C1, C2), intended to be sprayed simultaneously in adjacent areas to create a spatialized fragrance, the process beingcharacterized in that:
- we have one or more first aromatic components (M1) called basic or structural, which are inserted, in identical quantities, in a first container (F1) and in a second container (F2),
- we have one or more second aromatic components (M2) that we insert, in differentiated quantities, in the first container and in the second container,
- there is at least a third aromatic component (M3) which is inserted into only one of the first and / or second containers. 2 . Method according to claim 1, in which, for each second aromatic component (M2i) inserted in a differentiated quantity, the ratio R2i of the respective quantities M2i1 and M2i2 inserted in the first container and in the second container, namely the ratio R2i = M2i1 / M2i2, is either greater than 1.1 or less than 0.9. 3 . Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that one starts from a reference perfume formula (C0) from which at least the first aromatic components (M1) and the second aromatic components are obtained. (M2). 4 . Method according to one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that there is provided, for a given third aromatic component (M3A), inserted only in the first container, another separate third aromatic component (M3B), called a mirror component , inserted only in the in the second container. 5 . A method according to claim 4, wherein the third aromatic component (M3A) and the third mirror aromatic component (M3B) are rose oil and geranium oil, respectively. 6 . A method according to claim 4, wherein the third aromatic component (M3A) and the third mirror aromatic component (M3B) are respectively a musk essence and an ambrette essence. 7. A method according to claim 4, wherein the third aromatic component (M3A) and the third mirror aromatic component (M3B) are respectively an essence of violet and an essence of jasmine. 8. Method according to one of claims 1 to 7, in which the first and second aromatic concentrates are diluted (C1, C2) in a solvent, preferably based on an alcohol or a glycol, to form products that are easy to spray. Couple of two aromatic concentrates obtained by the method according to one of the preceding claims. 10 . Duo / pair of two flasks (F1, F2) comprising respective contents obtained by the method according to one of claims 1 to 8.