FR3072284A1 - COSMETIC FORMULATION CHARACTERIZED IN THAT IT INCLUDES AT LEAST ONE LIPOAMINOACIDE, AS WELL AS AT LEAST ONE PCA ESTER - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and more specifically to the field of external cosmetic formulations, and more particularly formulations intended to be applied to the skin. it relates to a cosmetic active agent characterized in that it comprises at least one lipoamino acid and at least one PCA ester, as well as a cosmetic formulation comprising such a cosmetic active ingredient.

Description

COSMETIC FORMULATION CHARACTERIZED IN THAT IT INCLUDES AT LEAST ONE LIPOAMINOACID, AS WELL AS AT LEAST ONE PCA ESTER The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics, and more specifically to the field of external cosmetic formulations, and more particularly formulations intended to be applied to the skin.

The invention relates to a cosmetic active agent characterized in that it comprises at least one isoamino acid and at least one PCA ester.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic formulation characterized in that it comprises at least one Iipoamino acid and at least one PCA ester.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic formulation characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic active agent according to the invention.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic formulation according to the invention, as well as to certain uses of the cosmetic formulation according to the invention.

The invention finally relates to a kit comprising a cosmetic formulation according to the invention, and an application device of the roller type.

In the context of the present invention, a number of definitions must be given.

By external cosmetic formulation is meant any formulation intended to be applied to the integuments, that is to say on the surface of the skin (epidermis) and the integuments.

By mass percentage is meant any concentration defined as a ratio between the mass of a compound and the total mass of a formulation comprising it, in percentage. For example, if 10 grams of a compound y are present in a formulation z having a total mass of 100 grams, then the mass percentage of y in z is 10%.

By mass ratio is meant the ratio between the mass of two or more compounds present in the same formulation. For example, if a formulation comprises 3 grams of compound f and 1 gram of compound g, then the mass ratio f / g is 3/1.

The term “ipoamino acid” is understood to mean a molecule comprising an amino acid residue as well as at least one lipophilic chain.

The term “lipopeptide” is understood to mean a molecule comprising a peptide chain linked to at least one lipophilic chain.

Thus, in the context of the present application, a "lipoamino acid" comprises a single amino acid residue while a "lipopeptide" comprises a peptide chain (itself made up of several amino acids).

The term "PCA ester" means an ester of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (CAS No: 98-79-3).

The expression roller-type application device is understood to mean a device comprising a cylinder comprising a plurality of micro-needles. The cylinder is intended to be applied to the skin, the micro-needles thus creating microperforations of the skin which promote the penetration of the active agents.

The term “oil” means any lipid, nonionic compound, insoluble in water (that is to say the solubility at neutral pH in water at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure, 760 mm Hg, is less than 1%) and liquid at room temperature (20 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

The term “fluid oil” means an oil whose viscosity is less than 10,000 cps (centipoises) at 25 ° C.

The term “gelled oil” is understood to mean an oil whose viscosity has been increased to a value of pius from to 10,000 cps (centipoises) at 25 ° C., by means of the addition of an oily gelling agent. Said gelling agent can be chosen from the group comprising waxes or other fatty substances with a high melting point, mineral fillers with high absorbency, organic thickeners, silicones, bentonites, saturated C16C18 triglycerides, etc.

By “micro-needling” is meant all of the techniques using micro-needles which micro-perforate the skin. The micro perforations produced will allow increased penetration of the active ingredients applied to the skin (factor 100 to 1000 according to the authors in the literature) and will, depending on their length and depth of penetration, generate mechanical induction / stimulation on the cells of the skin (fibroblasts) causing a regeneration of the collagen and elastin fibers of the dermis (principle of the CIT: Collagen Induction Therapy), as well as an activation of the capillary and blood systems, with neovascularization. Needle lengths of 0.2 mm will remain in the epidermis and on the surface of the superficial dermis, with little or no activation of fibroblasts (present in the dermis), while needle lengths of 0.3 to 0 , 5 mm will reach the superficial dermis and cause an ITC within the latter. With needle lengths greater than 0.5 mm (0.75 or 1 mm), the deep dermis will be reached and we will then have an ITC over the entire thickness of the skin, namely on the 2 parts of the dermis.

Man is distinguished from his environment at the level of an environment / integument interface, said integument being made up of the integuments and of the skin.

A number of cosmetic formulations can be applied to the seed coat, these cosmetic formulations can be intended for various uses (prevention of wrinkle formation, hydration, etc.).

Most external cosmetic formulations are emulsions which include active agents as well as at least one surfactant.

In the case of different formulations of emulsions, for example oils, the solubilization of certain active molecules which comprise hydrophilic groups, in particular amphiphilic active agents, such as for example lipoamino acids, may prove to be difficult as well as their availability to the skin surface.

Lipoamino acids have been used for many years in cosmetic specialties. These molecules offer a wide spectrum of action in different areas of application, in addition, they have a strong mimicry with natural substances, formulations comprising lipoamino acids are therefore particularly interesting.

Many lipoamino acids are marketed, these include dipalmitoyi hydroxyproline (sold for example under the brand name Sepilift DPHP®), sodium cocoyl alaninate (sold under the brand name Survicode®), palmitoyl isoleucine ( sold for example under the brand name Voluform®), undecylenoyl phenylalanine (sold for example under the brand name Sepiwhite®), sorbitan laurate & lauroyl proline (sold for example under the brand name Adiposlim®) and their mixtures.

Hydroxyproline dipalmitoyi is used for its wrinkle correcting, hydrating, firming, antioxidant, and photo-protective properties.

Sodium cocoyl alaninate is known for its wrinkle-correcting, immunological (Langerhans cell) properties, which protect against UV rays and oxidative stress.

[00028] Palmitoyl isoleucine is known for its volume and firmness effect, for simulating cell detoxification using the proteasome, for redrawing and increasing the elasticity of the face, for treating deep and medium wrinkles. Undecylenoyl phenylalanine is known for its complexion-enhancing properties.

Sorbitan laurate & lauroyl proiine is known for its lipolysis activation properties in adipocytes, for induction of cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP), as well as for its caffeine like properties.

In summary, all of these lipoamino acids have characteristics that make them very advantageous in the context of incorporation into external cosmetic formulations.

In the prior art, a number of studies have been carried out on amino acids substituted by a lipophilic chain.

In application FR2152456 in the name of Morelle, there is disclosed a derivative of hydroxyproline comprising a lipophilic chain. Depending on the nature of the lipophilic chain, different macroscopic forms can be distinguished: Its saturated chains generally lead to colorless and odorless white powders, while the unsaturated chains lead to pastes or liquids.

In application WO9809611 in the name of SEPPIC, there are disclosed amino acid derivatives comprising a palmitic chain (C16). It is disclosed that lipoamino acids, the lipophilic part of which consists of a lauroyl radical, have soothing properties. These compounds are used in aqueous cosmetic formulations such as emulsions or hydro-alcoholic solutions.

In application W02010026325 in the name of SEPPIC, there is disclosed an anti-aging cosmetic composition comprising a lipoamino acid and which may include oil, including castor oil.

In application US6274151 in the name of SEPPIC, there is disclosed a cosmetic composition comprising lipoamino acids as a texture agent. These compositions come in different forms and in particular oils.

Other requests relate to lipophilic derivatives of peptide chains (several amino acids linked by a peptide bond).

In application WO9904757 in the name of SEPPIC, lipopeptides are disclosed as antagonists of substance P.

In the prior art, a certain number of works have been carried out with regard to the combination of active agents including at least one lipoamino acid.

In application WO9927902 in the name of SEPPIC, there is disclosed a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil in water emulsion having the appearance of a milk comprising lipoamino acids and extracts or tinctures of plant materials rich in tannins.

In application W02007057583 in the name of SEPPIC, there are disclosed several cosmetic compositions comprising N-lauroyl proline & sorbitan laurate, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and which may include oil, including castor oil.

In the prior art, a number of studies have focused on the lipoamino acid dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline.

In application EP1449518 in the name of SEPPIC, there is disclosed a cosmetic composition comprising dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline.

In application W02007104879 in the name of SEPPIC, there is disclosed a composition comprising dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline and N-lauroyl proline in the form of powder directly dispersible in liquid media.

The problem to be solved in the present invention is to obtain formulations comprising lipoamino acids solubilized in a lipid phase.

Surprisingly, it has been demonstrated that a formulation without stable water could be obtained by combining a lipoamino acid and another active ingredient which is a PCA ester.

It has in particular been very surprisingly highlighted that the PCA esters, which are active agents, act as lipoamino acid solubilizers in addition to their physiological action, this making it possible to obtain stable and simplified formulations.

It has also been demonstrated that the lipoamino acids can be stabilized in their objectified concentration of cosmetic activity.

In the prior art, a number of PCA esters is commonly used.

PCA esters which are esters of L-pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (CAS No: 98-79-3), otherwise known as PCA, are preferably chosen from the group comprising lauryl PCA (sold for example under the name Laurydone®), lauryl PCA & behenyl PCA (sold for example under the brand name Waxidone®), octyldodecyl PCA (sold for example under the brand name Ceramidone®), myristyl PCA (sold for example under the brand name Myristidone®), isosteary! PCA (sold for example under the brand name Sebumol ODPC®), and their mixtures.

Lauryl PCA is known for its moisturizing properties. PCA lauryl & behenyl PCA is a substitute for waxes and vegetable oils which improves the texture and increases the breaking point of lipsticks and compact foundations while retaining a melting texture. Octyldodecyl PCA is known for its skin barrier restructuring action. Myristyl PCA is known for its texturing properties and its antimicrobial activity.

In the prior art, a number of PCA esters are disclosed. For example in application W02004108659 in the name of SOLABIA, there is disclosed an ester of ceramide type, of which certain particular properties are exposed.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic active ingredient characterized in that it comprises at least one lipoamino acid and at least one PCA ester, and in that the mass percentage of water in said cosmetic active ingredient is less than 2%.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active ingredient according to the invention is characterized in that the mass percentage of water in said cosmetic active ingredient is less than 1%.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the mass ratio between the lipoamino acid and the PCA ester is between 0.1 and 0.5.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the mass ratio between the lipoamino acid and the PCA ester is between 0.2 and 0.4.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the mass ratio between the lipoamino acid and the PCA ester is between 0.2 and 0.4.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is derived from an amino acid chosen from the group comprising proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, leucine, isoleucine, and phenylalanine.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is chosen from the group comprising dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, sodium cocoyl alaninate, palmitoyl isoleucine, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, sorbitan laurate & lauroyl proline and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is sorbitan laurate & lauroyl proline.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is chosen from the group comprising dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, sodium cocoyl alaninate, palmitoyl isoleucine, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline. In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is sodium cocoyl alaninate.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is palmitoyl isoleucine.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is undecylenoyl phenylalanine.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the said PCA ester is chosen from the esters of formula I

FORMULA I in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having a carbon number between 8 and 30, said PCA ester being of configuration S, R, or a mixture of the two.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said PCA ester is of configuration S.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said PCA ester is of configuration R.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said PCA ester is a mixture of R and S configurations.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that said PCA ester is a racemic mixture.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the PCA ester is chosen from the group comprising lauryl PCA, lauryl PCA & behenyl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA, myristyl PCA, isostearyl PCA, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the PCA ester is lauryl PCA & behenyl PCA.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the PCA ester is myristyl PCA.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the PCA ester is chosen from the group comprising lauryl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA, isostearyl PCA, and their mixtures .

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the PCA ester is lauryl PCA.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the PCA ester is octyldodecyl PCA.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that the PCA ester is isostearyl PCA.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic active agent according to the invention is characterized in that it consists of at least one iipoamino acid and at least one PCA ester.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation consisting of a lipid phase, characterized in that it comprises, at least one iipoamino acid and at least one PCA ester, and in that the mass percentage of water in said formulation is less than 1%.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it comprises, within a lipid phase, at least one cosmetic active agent according to the invention.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one Iipoamino acid is present in a mass percentage of between 0.1 and 2.5%.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one Iipoamino acid is present in a mass percentage of between 1 and 2% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one PCA ester is present in a mass percentage of between 0.1 and 10% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one PCA ester is present in a mass percentage of between 1 and 10% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one PCA ester is present in a mass percentage of between 1 and 6% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one PCA ester is present in a mass percentage of between 2 and 6% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one PCA ester is present in a mass percentage of 1% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one PCA ester is present in a mass percentage of 2% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the mass ratio between the lipoamino acid and the PCA ester is between 0.1 and 0.5.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the mass ratio between the lipoamino acid and the PCA ester is between 0.2 and 0.4.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is derived from an amino acid chosen from the group comprising proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, leucine, isoleucine, and phenylalanine.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is chosen from the group comprising dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, sodium cocoy! alaninate, palmitoyl isoleucine, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, sorbitan laurate & lauroyl praline and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is sorbitan laurate & lauroyl praline.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is chosen from the group comprising dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, sodium cocoyl alaninate, palmitoyl isoleucine, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and their mixtures.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is sodium cocoyl alaninate. In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is palmitoyl isoleucine.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is undecylenoyl phenylalanine.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said PCA ester is of formula I:

FORMULA I in which R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having a carbon number between 8 and 30, said PCA ester being of configuration S, R, or a mixture of the two.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said PCA ester is of configuration S.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said PCA ester is of configuration R.

[000102] In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said PCA ester is a mixture of R and S configurations.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said PCA ester is a racemic mixture.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the PCA ester is chosen from the group comprising lauryl PCA, lauryl PCA & behenyl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA, myristyi PCA, l 'isostearyl PCA, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the PCA ester is lauryl PCA & behenyl PCA.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the PCA ester is the PCA myristyi.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the PCA ester is chosen from the group comprising lauryl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA, isostearyl PCA, and their mixtures.

[000108] In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the PCA ester is lauryl PCA.

[000109] In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the PCA ester is octyldodecyl PCA.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that the PCA ester is isostearyl PCA.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said lipid phase comprises at least one oil and / or at least one fatty acid ester.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one oil and / or said at least one fatty acid ester is present in a mass percentage greater than 50% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one oil and / or said at least one fatty acid ester is present in a mass percentage of between 50 to 95% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one oil and / or said at least one fatty acid ester is present in a mass percentage between 85 to 95% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one oil and / or said at least one fatty acid ester is present in a mass percentage between 90 to 95% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one oil and / or said at least one fatty acid ester is present in a mass percentage greater than 90% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one oil is an oil having at least one fatty acid comprising an alcooi OH function.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one oil having at least one fatty acid comprising an OH alcohol function is castor oil.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it also comprises at least one vegetable oil being castor oil, at a mass percentage between 5 to 20% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it comprises, within said lipophilic phase, in addition at least one vegetable oil being castor oil, at a mass percentage between 5 to 15% of said formulation.

[000121] In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it also comprises at least one surfactant.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said at least one surfactant is present in a mass percentage of between 1 and 5% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it further comprises at least one fatty acid ester chosen from the group comprising caprylic / capric glyceride, octyldodecanol and octyldodecyl xyloside.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it also comprises at least one additional cosmetic compound chosen from the group comprising softeners, dyes, pigments, preservatives, thickeners, stabilizers, emollients, film-forming active ingredients, surfactants, perfumes, oils, sebum-absorbing agents, vitamins, moisturizers, humectants, soothing agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-irritant agents , detoxifying agents, lightening agents, antioxidant agents, deodorant agents, purifying agents, anti-wrinkle agents, sun filters, natural oils including sunflower oil, Karanja oil, fatty acid esters, alkanes, oily gelling agents.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it also comprises at least one oily gelling agent.

The oily gelling agents provide a better texture, as well as the possibility of incorporating particles, in particular zinc oxides.

In one embodiment, said at least one oily gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising natural oily gelling agents, synthetic oily gelling agents, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, said at least one oily gelling agent is a natural oily gelling agent.

In one embodiment, said at least one natural oily gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising waxes or other fatty substances with a high melting point, rather thickening than gelling, which raise the melting point and stiffen said cosmetic formulation, such as cera bellina, carnauba wax, or candellila wax, mineral fillers with high absorbency, organic thickeners. They form 3D structures which make it possible to gel the most polar oils and silicones, such as for example fumed silicas or even bentonites, saturated C16-C18 triglycerides (for example commercial composition Olifeel pearl®, extracted from oil olive, INCI name: Palmitic / Stearic Triglyceride).

In one embodiment, said at least natural is a rheology modifier.

In one embodiment, said at least natural is a hydrophobically modified amino acid.

In one embodiment, said natural is a dextrin palmitate (sold commercially Rheopearl®).

In one embodiment, said one a one gelling agent oily oily gelling agent at least for example at least one oily gelling agent under the name natural oily gelling agent is glyceryl behenate (sold for example under the trade name Compritol 888 CG®).

In one embodiment, said at least one natural oily gelling agent is trihydroxystearin (sold for example under the trade name Rheocin®).

In one embodiment, said at least one oily gelling agent is a synthetic oily gelling agent.

In one embodiment, said synthetic oily gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising Sodium Acrylates Copolymer (and) Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (and) Phospholipids (and) Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oïl ( sold under the trade name Heliogel®), synthetic waxes, organic polymeric lipophilic gelling agents (partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organsiloxanopolysiloxanes), silicone polyamides: polyorganosiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation characterized in that said at least one oily gelling agent is present in mass percentage between 2 to 20% of said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation characterized in that the said at least one oily gelling agent is present in the mass percentage of between 4 to 10% of the said formulation.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation characterized in that said at least one oily gelling agent is chosen from the group comprising Palmitic / Stearic Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-3-beeswax, dextrin palmitate, waxes, and their mixtures.

Characterized [000141] characterized is a is a is

In in this

In this embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is that it does not include water.

one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is that no water has been added.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it is lipidic and is in the form of fluid oil, gelled oil or balm.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it is in the form of a fluid oil.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that it is in the form of gelled oil.

In one embodiment, the external cosmetic formulation is characterized in that said formulation is free from water.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation according to the invention, intended to be used as an anti-aging formulation.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation according to the invention, intended to be used as a skin whitening formulation.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation according to the invention, intended to be used as a lightening formulation for the skin.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation according to the invention, intended to be used as a formulation for attenuating stains.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation according to the invention, intended to be used as a wrinkle smoothing formulation.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation according to the invention, intended to be used as a hydration formulation.

The invention also relates to an external cosmetic formulation according to the invention, intended to be used as a breast firming formulation.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing a cosmetic formulation comprising at least the following steps:

1) at least one lipoamino acid, at least one PCA ester and a lipid phase are available;

2) said lipoamino acid is dissolved in said lipid phase, at around 85 ° C for 10 to 30 minutes;

3) the PCA ester is added.

In one embodiment, the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic formulation, characterized in that said step 3 is carried out in the absence of heating.

In one embodiment, the invention relates to a process for the preparation of a cosmetic formulation, characterized in that said step 3 is carried out in the absence of heating.

In one embodiment, the cosmetic formulations according to the invention are applied with a micro-needling technique. Associating this micro-needling technique with the cosmetic formulations according to the invention makes it possible to act on fibroblasts in 3 steps / at 3 levels: mechanical induction promoting their activity of synthesis of collagen and eiastine.

In the field of micro-needling, there are in particular "roller-type application devices", which are devices comprising a cylinder comprising a plurality of micro-needles. The cylinder is intended to be applied to the skin, the micro-needles thus creating micro-performances of the skin which promote the penetration of the active agents.

Associating this micro-needling technique by means of an roller-type application device with the cosmetic formulations according to the invention allows, in addition to the advantages linked to micro-needling, to generate increased peeling of the skin, which could be akin to superficial peeling, the combination of this mechanical treatment with the cosmetic formulations according to the invention will make it possible to regenerate the lipid layer of the stratum corneum efficiently and quickly.

EXAMPLES

Example 1: Formulations comprising Sepilift® (dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline) The purpose of this example is to illustrate the advantage of using PCA esters for obtaining a formulation comprising, in a lipid phase, the dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline lipoamino acid. PCA esters have been compared to well known surfactants (characterized by various HLBs).

Formulations 1A-20A were prepared.

All formulations 1A-20A include the following compounds: sunflower oil qs 100%, caprylic capric triglycerides 10%, Sepilift® (dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline) 1% (objectified concentration of cosmetic activity), and formulations 2A-20A further include other compounds (castor oil and / or surfactant or PCA ester) identified in Table 1.

The operating mode is as follows:

1) Weighing of caprylic capric triglycerides and Sepilift® (dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline);

2) Placement in Bain Marie 80 ° C (max 85 ° C) for 5 to 10 min (almost immediate solubilization);

3) Addition of castor oil (when present) and surfactant (when present);

4) Addition of sunflower oil;

5) Placement in a bain marie, manual stirring, approximately 5 to 10 min, leave until the temperature is 50-60 ° C;

6) Mixing with deflocculator 30 seconds;

7) Transfer in transparent plastic pot.

Following manufacture, observations are made and the time of phase shift is evaluated; the results are reported in table 1 below:

Formulatio not 10% castor oil Surfactant or PCA ester Visible precipitation (room temperature) IA - D0 + 1 2A Yes z D0 + 7 3A Laurydone® (lauryl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 4A Yes Laurydone® (lauryl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 5A Ceramidone® (octyldodecyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 6A Yes Ceramidone® (octyldodecyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at D0 + 10 7A - sorbitan laurate 5% D0 +1

8A Yes sorbitan laurate 5% D0 +1 9A - sorbitan oleate 5% D0 +1 10A Yes sorbitan oleate 5% D0 +1 11A Neocare® (Polyglyceryl- 3 Polyricinoleate & Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate) 5% OJ + 2 12A Yes Neocare® (Polyglyceryl- 3 Polyricinoleate & Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate) 5% OJ + 3 13A Viatenza® (Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl10 Esters) 5% J0 + 1 14A Yes Viatenza® (Apricot Kernel Oil Polyglyceryl- 10 Esters) 5% J0 + 1 15A Akoline (Caprylic / Capric Glycerides) 5% J0 + 3 16A Yes Akoline (Caprylic / Capric Glycerides) 5% J0 + 4 17A Dermofeel Go Soft® (Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate) 5% OJ + 3 18A 10% Dermofeel Go Soft® (Polyglyceryl-2 Sesquioleate) 5% D0 + 5 19A glyceryl stearate 5% J0 + 1 20A 10% glyceryl stearate 5% J0 + 1

Table 1

Conclusions: Regarding the combination with dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, the formulations comprising lauryl PCA or octyldodecyl PCA are the most stable (formulations 3A, 4A, 5A and 6A versus all the others). This is observed both in the presence and in the absence of castor oil, even if in the presence of castor oil the formulations are even more stable (formulation 4A versus formulation 3A and formulation 6A versus formulation 5A). Conversely, we note that the use of surfactants does not make it possible to obtain stable formulations, whether in the presence or in the absence of castor oil (formulations 7A, 8A, 9A, 10A, 11A, 12A, 13A, 14A, 15A, 16A, 17A, 18A, 19A and 20A).

Example 2: Formulations comprising Sepiwhite® (undecylenoyl phenylalanine) The purpose of this example is to illustrate the advantage of using PCA esters for obtaining a formulation comprising the Iipoamino acid undecylenoyl phenylalanine. PCA esters have been compared to well known surfactants (characterized by various HLBs).

Formulations 1B-8B were prepared.

All formulations 1B-8B include the following compounds: sunflower oil qs 100%, caprylic capric triglyceride 10%, castor oil 10%, Sepiwhite® (undecylenoyl phenylalanine) 2% (objectified concentration of cosmetic activity), and formulations 2B-8B further comprise a PCA surfactant or ester.

The operating mode is as follows:

1) Weighing of Sepiwhite® (undecylenoyl phenylalanine) and caprylic capric triglycerides;

2) Placement in a Bain Marie 80 ° C (max. 85 ° C) for 5 to 10 minutes (almost immediate solubilization);

3) Addition of castor oil (and, if necessary, of the surfactant);

4) Placement in Bain Marie (without active heating) for 5 minutes;

5) Mixing with a deflocculator from 30 seconds to 1 minute;

6) Addition of sunflower oil;

7) Placement in a bain marie, manual stirring, approximately 5 to 10 minutes, leave until the temperature is 50-60 ° C;

8) Mixing with deflocculator 30 seconds;

9) Transfer a transparent plastic pot.

Following the manufacture, observations are made and the time of phase shift is evaluated; the results are reported in table 2 below:

Form ulatio n 10% castor oil present Surfactant or ester of PCA Visible precipitation (room temperature) IB Yes D0 + 2 2B Yes Ceramidone® (octyidodecy! PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 3B Yes Sorbitan Laurate 5% D0 + 4 4B Yes Sorbitan oleate 5% D0 + 4 5B Yes Neocare® (Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate) 5% D0 + 2 6B Yes Laurydone® (lauryl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 7B Yes Sebumol SPC® (isostearyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 8B Yes Sebumol ODPC® (octyldodecyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10

Table 2 [000169] Conclusions: As regards the association with undecylenoyl phenylalanine, and in the presence of castor oil, the formulations comprising lauryl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA or isostearyl PCA are the more stable (formulations 2B, 6B, 7B and 8B versus all the others). Conversely, it should be noted that the use of surfactants does not make it possible to obtain stable formulations (formulations 3B, 4B and 5B).

Example 3: Formulations comprising Voluform® (palmitoyl isoleucine) The purpose of this example is to illustrate the advantage of using PCA esters for obtaining a formulation comprising, in a lipid phase, palmitoyl isoleucine lipoamino acid. PCA esters have been compared to well known surfactants (characterized by various HLBs).

Formulations IC to 7C were prepared.

All formulations 1C-7C include the following compounds and mass concentrations: sunflower oil qs 100%, caprylic capric triglycerides 10%, castor oil 10%, Voluform® (palmitoyl isoleucine) 1% (objective concentration of cosmetic activity), and formulations 2C-7C further comprise a surfactant or a PCA ester.

The operating mode is as follows:

1) Weighing of Voluform® (palmitoyl isoleucine) and caprylic capric triglycerides;

2) Placement in a Bain Marie 80 ° C (max, 85 ° C) for 5 to 10 minutes (almost immediate solubilization);

3) Addition of castor oil (and, if necessary, of the surfactant);

4) Placement in Bain Marie (without active heating) for 5 minutes;

5) Mixing with a deflocculator from 30 seconds to 1 minute;

6) Addition of sunflower oil;

7) Placement in a bain marie, manual stirring, approximately 5 to 10 minutes, leave until the temperature is 50-60 ° C;

8) Mixing with deflocculator 30 seconds;

9) Transfer a transparent plastic pot.

Following manufacture, observations are made and the time of phase shift is evaluated; the results are reported in table 3 below:

Formulation 10% castor oil present Surfactant or PCA ester Visible precipitation (room temperature) IC Yes - 10 + 1 2C Yes Ceramidone® (octyldodecyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at D0 + 10 3C Yes Sorbitan Laurate 5% D0 + 7 4C Yes Sorbitan oleate 5% D0 + 5 5C Yes Neocare® (Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate 8i Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate) 5% D0 + 3 6C Yes Laurydone® (lauryl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at D0 + 10 7C Yes Sebumo! SPC® (isostearyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at D0 + 10

Table 3 [000175] Conclusions: As regards the association with palmitoyl isoleucine, and in the presence of castor oil, the formulations comprising lauryl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA or isostearyl PCA are the most stable (formulations 2C, 6C and 7C versus all the others). Conversely, it is noted that the use of surfactants does not make it possible to obtain stable formulations (formulations 3C, 4C and 5C).

Example 4: Formulations comprising Survicode® (sodium cocoyl alaninate) The purpose of this example is to illustrate the advantage of using PCA esters for obtaining a formulation comprising, in a lipid phase , sodium lipoamino acid cocoyl alaninate. PCA esters have been compared to well known surfactants (characterized by various HLBs).

Formulations 1D to 8D were prepared.

All the 1D-8D formulations include the following compounds and mass percentages: sunflower oil qs 100%, caprylic capric triglycerides 10%, castor oil 10%, Survicode® (sodium cocoyl alaninate) 1%, and include in addition to a PCA surfactant or ester.

The operating mode is as follows:

1) Weighing of Survicode® (sodium cocoyl alaninate) and caprylic capric triglycerides;

2) Placement in a Bain Marie 80 ° C (max. 85 ° C) for 5 to 10 minutes (almost immediate solubilization);

3) Addition of castor oil (and, if necessary, of the surfactant);

4) Placement in Bain Marie (without active heating) for 5 minutes;

5) Mixing with a deflocculator from 30 seconds to 1 minute;

6) Addition of sunflower oil;

7) Placement in a bain marie, manual stirring, approximately 5 to 10 minutes, leave until the temperature is 50-60 ° C;

8) Mixing with deflocculator 30 seconds;

9) Transfer a transparent plastic pot.

Following manufacture, observations are made and the time of phase shift is evaluated; the results are reported in table 4 below:

Formulation 10% castor oil present Surfactant or PCA ester Visible precipitation (room temperature) 1D Yes - 30 + 1 2D Yes Ceramidone® (octyldodecyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 3D Yes sorbitan Laurate 5% D0 + 2 4D Yes Sorbitan oleate 5% D0 + 1 5D Yes Neocare® (Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate & Polyglyceryl3 Ricinoleate) 5% D0 + 1 6D Yes Laurydone® (lauryl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at D0 + 10 7D Yes Sebumol SPC® (isostearyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10 8D Yes Sebumol ODPC® (octyldodecyl PCA) 5% no visible precipitation at J0 + 10

Table 4 [000181] Conclusions: With regard to the association with sodium cocoyl alaninate, and in the presence of castor oil, the formulations comprising lauryl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA or isostearyl PCA are the more stable (2D, 6D, 7D and 8D formulations versus all the others). Conversely, we note that the use of surfactants does not make it possible to obtain stable formulations (3D, 4D and 5D formulations).

Example 5: Formulations according to the invention [000182] 9 formulations A-ï according to the invention were prepared, including (F-I) or not (A-E) an oily gelling agent.

Example 5.1: Formulations not including an oily gelling agent [000184] The compositions A-E were prepared, their qualitative and quantitative compositions are given below:

Ingréc ients AT B vs D E Fatty acid oils and esters Macadamia oil 19% 25% 10% / 30% Grapeseed oil 15% / 12% 15% 7% Sunflower oil 16% 10% 4% / / Nuts oil / 10% 20% 15% / Castor oil 12% 10% 15% 15% 7% Jojoba oil / / 4% / 10% Caprylic / capric triglycerides 15% 20% 14% 30% 25% Dicaprylil carbonate 17% 19% 15% 18% 15% PCA esters Ceramidone® (octyldodecyl PCA) 4% / 3% / 3% Laurydone * (lauryl PCA) / 4.7% 1.5% / / Sebumol ODPC * (octyldodecyl PCA) / / / 5% / lipoaminoacids Voluform® (palmitoyl isoleucine) 1% / 1% 1% / Sepilift® (dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline) / 1% / ! / Sepiwhite ' (Undecylenoyl phenylalanine) / / / / 2%

ingred ients AT B VS D E other assets ubiquinone 0.2% 0.1% / 0.15% 0.15% Retinyl palmitate 0.2% / / 0.15% 0.2% tocopherol 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% Tocopheryl acetate 0.4% / 0.3% 0.5% 0.45%

Example 5.2: Formulations Including an Oily Gelling Agent The compositions F-I were prepared, their qualitative and quantitative compositions are given below:

ingredients F G H 1 Fatty acid oils and esters Macadamia oil / 10% / / Sunflower oil 20% 10% 25% 15% Castor oil 12% / 8% 15% Grapeseed oil 15% 10% 6.8% / Sesame oil / 10% 15% / Caprylic / capric triglycerides 25% 30% 15% 30% Dicaprylil carbonate 15% 19% 20% 25% gelling Olifee! pearf (Palmitic / Stearic triglyceride) / 5% / 9% Cera bellina (Polyglyceryl-3beeswax) 6% / / / Rheopearl® (dextrin palmitate) / / 4% / PCA esters Ceramidone® (octyldodecyl.. PCA) 3% ! / 4.8% Sebumol SPC® (isostearyl PCA) 2% ! 3% / Laurydone® (lauryl PCA) / 4% 2% /

Ingréc ients F G H 1 lipoaminoacids Voluform ’(paitmitoyl isoleucine) 1% / 1% 1% Sepilift * (dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline) / 1% / / other assets ubiquinone 0.2% 0.3% / / Retinyl palmitate 0.2% / / / tocopherol 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% 0.2% tocopheryl acetate 0.4% 0.5% / /

Claims (12)

1. Cosmetic active ingredient, characterized in that it comprises at least one lipoamino acid and at least one PCA ester, and in that the mass percentage of water in said cosmetic active ingredient is less than 2%. 2. Cosmetic active ingredient according to claim 1, characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is derived from an amino acid chosen from the group comprising proline, hydroxyproline, alanine, glycine, leucine, isoleucine , and phenylalanine. 3. cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is chosen from the group comprising dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline, sodium cocoyl alaninate, palmitoyl isoleucine, undecylenoyl phenylalanine, sorbitan laurate & lauroyl proline and mixtures thereof. 4. cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said PCA ester is an ester of formula I: wherein R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having a carbon number between 8 and 30, said PCA ester being of configuration S, R, or a mixture of the two. 5. Cosmetic active ingredient according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the PCA ester is chosen from the group comprising lauryl PCA, lauryl PCA & behenyl PCA, octyldodecyl PCA, myristyl PCA, isostearyl PCA, and mixtures thereof. 6. External cosmetic formulation consisting of a lipid phase, characterized in that it comprises at least one lipoamino acid and at least one PCA ester, and in that the mass percentage of water in said formulation is less than 1%. 7. External cosmetic formulation according to claim 6, characterized in that said at least one lipoamino acid is present in a mass percentage of between 0.1 and 2.5% of said formulation. 8. External cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 6 to 7, characterized in that the mass ratio between the lipoamino acid and the PCA ester is between 0.1 and 0.5. 9. External cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that it comprises at least one oil and / or at least one fatty acid ester in a mass percentage greater than 50% of said formulation. 10. External cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that it comprises, within said lipid phase, in addition at least castor oil, at a mass percentage of between 5 to 20% of said formulation. 11. External cosmetic formulation according to any one of claims 6 to 10, characterized in that it further comprises at least one oily gelling agent. 12. Use of at least one PCA ester for the solubilization of at least one lipoamino acid in a lipid medium.