FR3064468A1 - COLORED PARTICLES WITH HIGH PIGMENT CONTENT - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a particle comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s) relative to the weight of said particle. The present invention also relates to a series of particles, wherein each particle comprises at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), based on the weight of said particle, a process for preparing this series of particles and their uses in compositions cosmetics, especially make-up.

Description

® FRENCH REPUBLIC

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number:

(to be used only for reproduction orders)

©) National registration number

064 468

52728

COURBEVOIE © Int Cl ⁸ : A 61 K8 / 02 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 24, C 07 F 9/08, A 61 Q 1/02

A1 PATENT APPLICATION

©) Date of filing: 30.03.17. © Applicant (s): SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLO- (© Priority: GIES Simplified joint stock company - FR. @ Inventor (s): GUYOT-FERREOL VERONIQUE. ©) Date of public availability of the request: 05.10.18 Bulletin 18/40. ©) List of documents cited in the report preliminary research: Refer to end of present booklet (© References to other national documents ® Holder (s): SENSIENT COSMETIC TECHNOLO- related: GIES Simplified joint-stock company. ©) Extension request (s): (© Agent (s): LAVOIX.

COLORED PARTICLES WITH HIGH PIGMENT CONTENT.

FR 3,064,468 - A1 (5 /) The present invention relates to a particle comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s) relative to the weight of said particle.

The present invention also relates to a series of particles, in which each particle comprises at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), relative to the weight of said particle, a process for preparing this series of particles and their uses in compositions cosmetics, in particular make-up.

COLORED PARTICLES WITH HIGH PIGMENT CONTENT

The present invention relates to colored particles with a high pigment content, intended for incorporation in cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up compositions and their preparation process.

For the purposes of the present application, the term "cosmetic composition" means any cosmetic formulation intended to be applied to the skin, to the hair and / or the nails.

One of the main objectives in cosmetics is to improve the external appearance of the skin, in particular the face. Generally, foundations are used to improve features or hide skin imperfections. These foundations are generally available in the form of liquid, semi-liquid or cream suspensions, emulsions, gels, as well as pressed powders or anhydrous oils and wax compositions.

There is a need to develop new cosmetic compositions which offer new sensory experiences to the user and / or which are more effective. In recent years formulations have been developed in the form of macroscopic particles, in particular of the pearl type, hollow or solid, flexible or rigid. These macroscopic particles confer a differentiating and very attractive visual aspect, while protecting the encapsulated active ingredients. However, the existing macroscopic particles are generally not or very little colored and are used as care products of which the coloration or the capacity to color the keratin materials is / are largely insufficient.

Some macroscopic colored particles comprising dyes (coloring chemical substance soluble in the colored particle) have been described. However, their coloring contents are very low. Few macroscopic colored particles comprising a pigment (powdery and insoluble coloring chemical substance) are known, and their pigment contents are extremely low, and which makes them unsuitable for use as a makeup composition. In addition, these low pigments contents are such that the corresponding cosmetic products have unsatisfactory properties in terms of coverage.

Due to their powdery and insoluble nature, pigments are indeed difficult to integrate into macroscopic particles. Indeed, the processes for preparing macroscopic particles generally use solutions. However, introducing pigments into these solutions generally makes them very viscous, and the usual preparation processes are then very difficult to implement. In addition, in the rare cases where it is possible to formulate a macroscopic colored particle comprising a pigment, one can observe a phenomenon of sedimentation of the pigment inside the macroscopic colored particle. However, macroscopic colored particles in which the pigment is distributed throughout the macroscopic colored particle (or in all the phase which contains them when the macroscopic particle is multiphasic and the pigment is in a phase) are sought.

The development of macroscopic particles with high pigment contents and not having the above drawbacks for cosmetic applications, in particular make-up, therefore remains a constant objective.

In particular, the present invention aims to provide a cosmetic composition comprising macroscopic particles and having satisfactory properties in terms of coverage.

To this end, the invention relates to a particle, in particular macroscopic, comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), generally at least 5% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 10% by weight of pigment ( s), typically at least 13% by weight of pigment (s), relative to the weight of said particle.

The particles of the invention can comprise up to 50% by weight of pigment (s). When several pigments are present, this mass proportion is the cumulative proportion of pigments. These proportions are expressed relative to the weight of particles. The particles according to the invention can in particular be called "colored particles" or "macroscopic colored particles".

The invention also relates to a series of particles as defined above.

The invention also relates to a composition comprising at least one particle as defined above or at least one series of particles as defined above.

The colored particles according to the invention have a substantially spherical shape.

The particles according to the invention are advantageously macroscopic, that is to say visible to the naked eye.

Their average diameters D are generally from 0.1 mm to 10 mm, in particular from 0.1 to 7 mm, preferably from 0.2 mm to 5 mm, typically from 0.3 mm to 3 ίο mm, in particular from 0.4 mm to 2.5 mm, for example 0.5 mm to 2 mm. This diameter is advantageously measured on N colored particles using the image processing software “Image J”, on the basis of a photograph of the colored particles taken in top view with a digital camera. Typically, according to this method, the diameter is measured in pixels, then reported in pm, depending on the size of the container containing the colored particles. Preferably, the value of N is chosen to be greater than or equal to 30, so that this analysis statistically significantly reflects the diameter distribution of the colored particles.

We measure the diameter ü, of each colored particle, then we obtain the mean diameter D by calculating the arithmetic mean of these values D,:

- 1 d

NÎt

From these values D ,, we can also obtain the standard deviation σ of the diameters of the colored particles:

Σ (ο, -ό) ² ί = 1

The standard deviation σ reflects the distribution of the diameters D _{ of the colored particles around the mean diameter D.

We can calculate the coefficient of variation C _v :

This parameter reflects the distribution of the diameters of the colored particles as a function of their average diameter.

According to one embodiment, in the series of particles according to the invention, the coefficient of variation of the diameters of the colored particles is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.

According to one embodiment, in the above-mentioned composition, the coefficient of variation of the diameters of the colored particles is less than 10%, preferably less than 5%.

The colored particles can be monophasic or multiphasic. For example, they include a heart (which includes at least one phase) and an envelope or membrane (which constitutes another phase) completely encapsulating the heart. The heart is preferably liquid at 25 ° C. The heart can itself comprise one or more phases. Generally, the at least one pigment is in the phase (one of the phases) forming the heart. The envelope completely encapsulating the heart is typically based on a gelled polyelectrolyte. Each phase of the colored particles can be oily or aqueous.

According to one embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a solid particle (or monophasic). Among these particles, mention may in particular be made of particles such as agar beads. Mention may also be made of particles formed from a single phase corresponding to the gelled polyelectrolyte mentioned above.

According to another embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a particle of the heart / bark (or core / shell) type, also designated by the term "capsule".

According to one embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said liquid heart, said liquid heart being monophasic, and in particularly based on a predominantly aqueous phase or on the contrary of a predominantly oily phase.

Such a type of particle then corresponds to a simple capsule comprising two distinct phases, an internal liquid phase or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a phase external to the gelled state surrounding the internal phase.

According to a particular embodiment, a particle according to the invention is a capsule which comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart comprising an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop. Advantageously, the ratio of the volume of the heart to the volume of the gelled envelope is greater than 2, advantageously is less than 50, and preferably is between 5 and 10. The intermediate phase is for example carried out on the basis of an aqueous solution or oily. When the intermediate phase is aqueous, the internal phase is oily, and conversely when the intermediate phase is oily, the internal phase is aqueous.

Such a type of particle then corresponds to a complex capsule meaning that the liquid, viscous or thixotropic core comprises a single intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase disposed in the intermediate drop.

According to a variant, the heart comprises a continuous intermediate phase within which there is a plurality of drops of internal phase (s).

According to one embodiment, a particle according to the invention comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart comprising an intermediate drop of an oily phase, the oily phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one internal drop of an aqueous phase placed in the intermediate drop.

According to another embodiment, a particle according to the invention comprises a liquid heart or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating said heart, said heart comprising an intermediate drop of an aqueous phase, the aqueous phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an oily phase placed in the intermediate drop.

Advantageously, the intermediate phase also comprises at least one gelling agent, in particular as defined below. The gelling agent contributes in particular to improving the suspension of the internal drop (s) arranged in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this embodiment. In other words, the gelling agent makes it possible to prevent / avoid the phenomena of creaming or sedimentation of the internal drop (s) disposed in the intermediate drop of the particles of the invention according to this embodiment.

The colored particles comprise at least one pigment, preferably several pigments. The use of several pigments allows to shade the color of the colored particles obtained as desired.

By “pigment” is meant a coloring chemical substance insoluble in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the pigment is present). By "insoluble" is meant that the solubility at 20 ° C of the pigment in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the pigment is present) is less than 1 g / L, in particular less than 0.1 g / L, preferably less than 0.001 g / L.

Each pigment can independently be an organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrid pigment. These are typically inorganic pigments.

Mention may in particular be made, as pigments, of titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. The preferred mineral pigments are iron oxides, in particular red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixtures.

The pigment is preferably an iron oxide, in particular red iron oxide, yellow iron oxide, brown iron oxide, black iron oxide and their mixtures.

Each pigment of the colored particles can be an untreated pigment or a treated pigment. In the sense of the application, by "treated pigment" means a pigment having been treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily or aqueous composition, in particular one of the additives defined below. By "untreated pigment" or "untreated pigment" means a pigment that has not been treated with such an additive.

According to one embodiment, the phase comprising the pigment (s) is an aqueous phase.

According to one embodiment, the phase comprising the pigment (s) is oily or oily.

Preferably, when the phase comprising pigments is an oily or oily phase, said phase also comprises hydrostearic acid, preferably in a content of between 0.5% and 10%, in particular between 3% and 6% , by weight relative to the total weight of the phase considered. The presence of this particular compound is advantageous in that it makes it possible to reduce the viscosity of a ground pigment / oil (60:40), a fortiori of a phase highly loaded with pigments, and therefore to make it fluid and more easily processable, in particular at the level of fluidic devices as described below.

The colored particles are generally formed in whole or in part from at least one polysaccharide such as an alginate, a gelan, a pectin, a cellulose or a cellulose derivative, such as carboxymethylcellulose, of agar. According to a particular embodiment, the polysaccharide is a polyelectrolyte

The colored particles may also comprise at least one gelling agent, in particular heat-sensitive. This gelling agent makes it possible in particular to adapt the viscosity and / or to reduce, or even prevent, the sedimentation of the pigment (s), in particular when present (s) in a liquid phase at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

In the context of the invention, the term “gelling agent” means an agent which makes it possible, at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure, to increase the viscosity of the phase (s) which contain it (s) relative to the (s) same phase (s) devoid of said gelling agent, and in particular reaching a final viscosity of the phase (s) greater than 20,000 mPa.s, preferably greater than 50,000 mPa. s, better more than 100,000 mPa.s, and especially more than 200,000 mPa.s.

Preferably, the viscosity of the phase (s) forming the colored particles in the presence of said gelling agent is between 20,000 and 100,000,000 mPa.s, preferably between 50,000 and 1,000,000 mPa.s, and better still between 100,000 at 500,000 mPa.s, at 25 ° C.

The choice of gelling agent (s) is made in particular with regard to the nature of the phase considered and is different from the polysaccharide forming all or part of the colored particles according to the invention. So, for compatibility reasons:

- the gelling agent is hydrophilic when present in an aqueous phase, and

- the gelling agent is lipophilic when present in an oily phase.

“Hydrophilic gelling agent” is understood to mean, within the meaning of the present invention, a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the colored particles. The gelling agent can be water-soluble or water-dispersible. The hydrophilic gelling agent can be chosen from semi-synthetic polymeric gelling agents, synthetic polymeric gelling agents, natural or natural polymeric gelling agents, mixed silicates and fumed silicas, and their mixtures. These hydrophilic gelling agents can be cationic, anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

The term “lipophilic gelling agent” means a compound capable of gelling the oily phase of the colored particles. The gelling agent is liposoluble or lipodispersible. The lipophilic gelling agent is advantageously chosen from particulate gelling agents; organopolysiloxane elastomers; semi-crystalline polymers; polyacrylates; sugar / polysaccharide esters, in particular dextrin esters, inulin esters, glycerol esters, in particular dextrin esters; hydrogen-bonded polymers; hydrocarbon block copolymers and their mixtures.

The hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents can be chosen from those described in FR 3,025,096 or FR 3,025,103.

The colored particles may also comprise a fuzzy effect filler.

A blurring effect filler is likely to modify and / or mask wrinkles by its intrinsic physical properties. These fillers can in particular modify wrinkles by a tightening effect, a camouflage effect, or a blurring effect.

As a fuzzy filler, the following compounds may be given as examples:

- porous silica microparticles such as, for example, Silica Beads® SB 150 and SB 700 from Myochi with an average size of 5 pm and SUNSPHERES® H series from Asahi Glass such as H33, H51 with sizes of 3.5 and 5 respectively pm and the Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies in sizes 7 pm and 5 pm respectively;

- hollow hemispherical particles of silicone resins such as NLK 500®, NLK 506® and NLK 510® from Takemoto Oil and Fat, in particular described in EP 1 579 849;

- silicone resin powders such as, for example, SILICON Resin Tospearl® 145 A DE GE with an average size of 4.5 μm;

- powders of acrylic copolymers, in particular of poly (meth) acrylate such as for example PMMA Jurimer MBI® particles from Nihon Junyoki with an average size of 8 pm, PMMA hollow spheres sold under the name COVABEAD® LH 85 by Sensient Cosmetic Technologies and the vinylidene / acrylonitrile / expanded methylene methacrylate microspheres sold under the name Expancel®;

- wax powders such as Paraffin wax microloase® 114S particles from Micropowders with an average size of 7 μm;

- polyethylene powders, in particular comprising at least one ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer such as, for example, FLOBEADS® EA 209 E from Sumimoto with an average size of 10 μm;

- crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxane powders coated with silicone resin, in particular silsesquioxane under the name KSP 100®, KSP 101®, KSP 102®, KSP 103®, KSP 104® and KSP 105® by the company Shin Etsu. - talc / dioxide or titanium / alumina / silica composite powders such as, for example, Coverleaf AR 80® from the company Catalyst &Chemical;

- talc, mica, kaolin, lauryl glycine, starch powders crosslinked with octaneanyl succinate anhydride, boron nitride, polytetrafluoroethylene powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate carbonate magnesium, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate, cerium dioxide and glass or ceramic microcapsules;

- synthetic or natural, mineral or organic hydrophilic or hydrophobic fibers such as silk, cotton, wool, linen, cellulose fibers extracted in particular from wood, vegetables or algae, polyamide (Nylon®), modified cellulose, poly-p-phenylene terephtamide, acrylic, polyolefin, glass, silica, aramid, carbon, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon®), insoluble collagen, polyesters, polyvinyl chloride or vinylidene, polyvinyl alcohol, polyacrylonitrile, chitosan, polyurethane, polyethylene phthalate, fibers formed from a mixture of polymers, absorbable synthetic fibers, and their mixtures described in patent application EP 1 151 742;

- spherical elastomeric crosslinked silicones such as Trefil E-505C® or E-506 C® from Dow Corning;

- the abrasive fillers which, by mechanical effect, provide a smoothing of the skin microrelief, such as abrasive silica, for example Abrasif SP® from Semanez or nut or shell powders (apricot, nuts, for example from Cosmétochem).

The fillers having an effect on the signs of aging are in particular chosen from porous silica microparticles, hollow hemispherical particles of silicones, powders of silicone resin, powders of acrylic copolymers, powders of polyethylenes, powders of organopolysiloxanes crosslinked elastomers coated with silicone resin, talc / titanium dioxide / alumina / silica composite powders, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium hydrocarbon carbonate, barium sulfate, hydroxyapatite, calcium silicate , cerium dioxide and the microcapsules of glass or ceramics, fibers of silk, cotton, and their mixtures.

The colored particles may also include a "soft focus" charge. By “soft-focus” filler is meant a filler which additionally gives transparency to the complexion and a hazy effect.

Preferably, the "soft-focus" fillers have an average particle size less than or equal to 15 microns. These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or non-spherical. More preferably, these charges are non-spherical.

The “soft-focus” fillers can be chosen from silica powders and silicates, in particular alumina powders, powders of polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) type, talc, silica / TiO ₂ or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, starch powders, polyamide powders, powders of styrene / acrylic copolymers, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

In particular, mention may be made of talc of medium size in number less than or equal to microns, for example talc of medium size in number of 1.8 micron and in particular that sold under the trade name Talc P3® by the company Nippon Talc, Nylon® 12 powder, in particular that sold under the name Orgasol 2002 Extra

D Nat Cos® by the company Atochem, the silica particles treated on the surface with a mineral wax 1 to 2% (INCI name: hydrated silica (and) paraffin) such as those sold by the company Degussa, amorphous silica microspheres, such as those sold under the name Sunsphère for example of reference H-53® by the company Asahi Glass, silica micro-beads such as those sold under the name SB-700® or SB-150® by the company Miyoshi, Sensibead Si 175 and Sensibead Si 320 silica beads from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies, and PMMA beads Covabead Velvet 10 and Covabead Velvet 20 from Sensient, this list is not exhaustive.

The concentration of these fillers having an effect on the signs of aging in the colored particles can be between 0.1% and 60%, or even between 0.5% and 40%, in particular between 1% and 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the colored particles.

According to one embodiment, a colored particle according to the invention also comprises at least one coloring agent different from the above-mentioned pigment (s).

The colored particles can therefore also comprise a dye and / or a mother-of-pearl, for example a Covapearl Star gold 2375 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies or Covapearl antique Silver 239 from Sensient Cosmetic Technologies. A dye or mother-of-pearl different in color from that of the pigment used will preferably be chosen. By "dye" is meant a coloring chemical substance soluble in the colored particle (or the phase of the colored particle in which the dye is present). By "soluble" is meant that the solubility at 20 ° C of the dye in the colored particle is greater than 2 g / L, in particular greater than 5 g / L, preferably greater than 10 g / L.

Preferably, when the colored particles are multiphase, the phase comprising the pigment (s) is different from that comprising the mother-of-pearl (s) or the dye (s). This results in an exacerbated, even unexpected, visual effect for the consumer who, according to a particular embodiment, sees a cosmetic composition of a color (that of mother-of-pearl (s) and / or dye (s)) come out of the container. ) totally different from that expected (that of the pigment of the colored particles).

According to one embodiment, when the particle according to the invention is a simple capsule as defined above, the heart comprises at least 3%, in particular at least 5% by weight of pigments, and the membrane comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular nacres, of a different color from the encapsulated pigments (and therefore from the heart) preferably in a content such that the membrane (or envelope) prevents the contents of the capsule from being seen. This results in an unexpected effect for the consumer who sees a composition of a color completely different from the color of the capsules coming out of the pack.

According to one embodiment, when the particle according to the invention is a complex capsule as defined above, the heart comprises at least 3%, in particular at least 5% by weight of pigments, and, according to a first variant, the pigments are present in the internal phase (IF), the intermediate phase (MF), or both, and according to a second variant, the membrane comprises at least one coloring agent, in particular nacres, preferably of a different color encapsulated pigments (and therefore of the heart), preferably in a content such that the membrane (or envelope) prevents the contents of the capsule from being seen. This results in unexpected visual effects for the consumer, who sees a composition of a color completely different from the color of the capsules coming out of the pack.

The particles according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional compound different from the above-mentioned compounds.

A particle according to the invention, in particular the core and / or the envelope of a capsule according to the invention, can thus also comprise, as additional compound, powders, flakes, particulate agents insoluble in the fatty phase , emulsifying and / or non-emulsifying silicone elastomers, in particular as described in application EP 2 353 577, preservatives, humectants, stabilizers, chelators, emollients, modifying agents chosen from pH agents, osmotic force and / or modifiers of refractive index, etc. or any usual cosmetic additive, and mixtures thereof.

A particle according to the invention, in particular the heart and / or the envelope of a capsule according to the invention, can also further comprise at least one active, in particular biological or cosmetic, preferably chosen from hydrating agents, healing agents, depigmenting agents, UV filters, desquamating agents, antioxidant agents, active agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal and / or epidermal macromoleculars, dermodecontracting agents, antiperspirant agents, soothing agents, anti-perspirants age, perfuming agents and their mixtures. Such assets are described in particular in application FR 1 558 849.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will take care to choose any optional compound (s) and / or active agent (s) mentioned above and / or their respective amounts so that the advantageous properties of the particles according to the invention are not not or substantially not altered by the proposed addition. These adjustments fall within the competence of a person skilled in the art.

The invention also relates to a process for preparing a series of colored particles comprising a step c) of formulating at least one pigment in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment.

According to a first alternative of the method, the pigment used in step c) is an untreated and unground pigment (pigment used "as is").

According to a second alternative to the process, the pigment used in step c) has undergone a preliminary treatment in order to make it more easily dispersible during the formulation of the pigment. This preliminary treatment consists in grinding the pigment and / or pretreating it with an additive improving its dispersibility before formulating it in the form of a series of colored particles.

The preparation process then includes the steps of:

a) providing at least one pigment optionally pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment, then

b) optionally grinding said at least one pigment, said grinding preferably taking place when the at least one pigment is not pretreated,

c) formulating the at least one pigment obtained in step a) or b) in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment.

The invention is based in particular on the discovery that the use of a ground pigment and / or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility:

contributes to the fact that a liquid which contains the ground and / or pretreated pigment has a low viscosity, contributes to the preparation of colored particles having a very high pigment content, comprising more than 3% by weight of pigment, generally more than 5 % by weight of pigment, or even more than 7.5% by weight of pigment, contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the sedimentation of the pigment (s) in the phase (s) of the colored particles which (s) contains (s), and / or contributes to the reduction, or even avoids, the aggregation of pigments in the phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it (s).

Generally, when several pigments are used, they all undergo the same treatment, that is to say that they are all ground and / or that they are all pretreated. However, some may be ground and untreated, and others may be ground and unground.

According to a first embodiment of the method according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment from step a) is pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment.

The nature of the additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment depends on the hydrophilic or lipophilic nature of the phase (s) of the colored particle which will comprise (have) this treated pigment.

When the process uses several pretreated pigments, these can be pretreated with additives which are identical or different from each other.

îo An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily composition is chosen in order to prepare colored particles whose phase (s) which will include (have) the pigment is oily. The additive is for example chosen from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or a salt thereof and an amino acid ester or a salt thereof. Hydrogenated lecithin has phosphate mono- and di-esters with fatty chains which promote dispersibility in the oil phase. The silicone additive can either be obtained from a silicone precursor, such as an alkoxyalkylsilane such as triethoxycaprylsilane, or such as a trialkylsiloxysilicate such as trimethylsiloxysilicate, or either be a silicone, such as dimethicone or a derivative thereof , for example bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, or be obtained from a mixture of silicone and one of its precursors, for example a mixture of dimethicone and trimethylsiloxysilicate. The silicone additive can be a hybrid treatment, in particular a mixture of isopropyl titanium triisostearate, bis-hydroxyethoxypropyl dimethicone, PEG-2 soyamine and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). The wax may for example be floral rose wax. The preferred amino acid is cystine, and the preferred amino acid esters are sodium cocoyl glutamate, layroyl arginine or lauroyl lysine.

An additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous composition is chosen in order to prepare colored particles whose phase (s) which will comprise (have) the pigment is aqueous. This additive is in particular of formula (I) below:

O f (M) o) —p4or) 'i / m / n \ / 3-n

V / ’in which:

n represents 1 or 2,

M represents H or a cation, m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation,

R represents:

a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group - [CH ₂ -CHR ₁ -O] _q -R ₂ or - [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) O] _q -R ₂ where:

q represents an integer from 1 to 1000, for each unit CH ^ CHR ^ O, Ri independently represents H or methyl,

R ₂ represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted by one or more groups G, phosphate (of formula OPO ₃ (M) _{2 / m} ) and / or hydroxyl (OH).

The group - [CH ₂ -CHR ₁ -O] _q -R ₂ with Rt represents H corresponds to a polyethylene glycol (PEG). The group - [CH ₂ -CHR ₁ -O] _q -R ₂ with Rt represents a methyl corresponds to a polypropylene glycol (PPG). The group- [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -0] _q -R 'corresponds to a polyglycerol.

Typically, q is an integer from 1 to 500, in particular from 1 to 100, preferably from 1 to 60.

Preferably, n represents 2 and the additive has the following formula (I j:

O

II (M) O — P-OR

1 / m |

O (M) ^{1 / m} (I '), in which M, m and R are as defined above.

Within the meaning of the present application, a hydrocarbon chain comprises from 1 to 500 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 50, typically from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. The hydrocarbon chains can be linear, branched or cyclic. Preferred hydrocarbon chains are alkyl groups (preferably having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, especially from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 3, such as methyl, ethyl, n-propyl and isopropyl groups) , alkenyl (preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 6), aryl (preferably having 6 to 10 carbon atoms), arylalkyl (preferably having 7 to 10 carbon atoms) or alkylaryl (preferably having from 7 to 10 carbon atoms). The vinyl group is the preferred alkenyl group. The phenyl group is the preferred aryl.

A saccharide can be a mono- or polysaccharide. The preferred saccharides are mono- or disaccharide, in particular monosaccharides such as glucose, galactose or fructose.

M can in particular be an inorganic cation, such as Ag ³⁺ , Al ³⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Ag ²⁺ , 5 Zn ²⁺ , Sn ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ , Ba ²⁺ , Ag ⁺ , Na ⁺ or an organic cation, such as a diethanolammonium (DEA) (H ₃ N ⁺ - (CH ₂ ) ₂ -OH) or a quaternary ammonium.

The following additives of formula (II), (III) or (IV) below are particularly suitable for carrying out the invention:

HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -O) —CH ₂ 0 (M)

HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -O) —COP = O qii

HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -O) —CH ₂ 0 (M) ^{q 1 / m} (ll), in which M, m and q are as defined above, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I ) in which n represents 2 and R represents an isopropyl hydrocarbon chain in which each of the carbon atoms is substituted by a group G which represents - [CH ₂ -CHR ₁ -O] _q -R ₂ where Rt and R ₂ represent H),

O (M)

I 1 / m

HO-CH-CH-CH-OP = O ² I ² I

OH C (M) ^{1 / m} (III), in which M and m are as defined above, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula - [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -O] _q -R ₂ where q represents 1 and R ₂ represents H),

O (M)

HO - (- CH-CH — O) (CH _r CH-O -) - P = O ^{/ m} q 'I q I

CH ₃ O (M) ^{1 / m} (IV) in which M and m are as defined above and q 'and q ”independently represent an integer from 0 to 1000, generally from 0 to 500, in particular from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 60, such that the sum of q 'and q ”independently represent an integer from 1 to 1000, (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a group G of formula - [CH ₂ -CHR ₁ -O] _q -R ₂ where q represents the sum of q 'and q ”and, for the first q” units, Ri represents a methyl and for the last q' units, Ri represents H, and R ₂ represents H).

The following additives of formula (V) and (VI) are also suitable:

(M) CL P O OPCL (M)

2 / m

ΌΡ0 ₃ η ₂ (M) O ₃ PO

2 / m

2 / m, QPO ₃ (M)

OPO ₃ (M)

2 / m

2 / m _(V) (which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a cyclohexyl hydrocarbon chain substituted in positions 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6 by a phosphate group of formula OPO ₃ H ₂ ),

O

II (Μ) OP. ^v 'w / O (M) O''Ί / m

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (I) in which n represents 2, R represents a methyl hydrocarbon chain linked to a group G glucose), in which M and m are as defined above.

The following additives are particularly preferred:

- Glycereth-26 phosphate, of formula (Il j below:

HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -O) - CH ₉ OH ' ^{2 2 z} 26 | ² |

HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -O) —cop = o \ zz / ₂ 6 | |

HO- (CH ₂ CH ₂ -O) -CH ₂ oh l '), (which corresponds to an additive of formula (II) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, by example at Croda®,

- glycerophosphate, of formula (III j below:

We have

I

HO-CH-CH-CH-OP = O ² I ² I

We have

OH

I ’), ίο (which corresponds to an additive of formula (III) in which M represents Na and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Dr Paul Lohman®,

- PEG-26 PPG-30 phosphate of diethanolammonium of formula (IV ’) below:

OH

HO — CH — CH — O26

O-, H A

-CH-CH-O — Hp = O

I 30

CH,

O

(which corresponds to an additive of formula (IV) in which M represents a diethanolammonium cation and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Innospec®,

- the phytic acid of formula (V ’) below:

H ₂ O ₃ PO h ₂ o ₃ in opo ₃ h ₂ opo ₃ h ₂ opo ₃ h ₂ opo ₃ h ₂ (V '), (which corresponds to an additive of formula (V) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available, for example from Nutriscience®,

- glucose phosphate, of formula (VI ’) below:

O

II

OH (VI ’), (which corresponds to an additive of formula (VI) in which M represents H and m represents 1), this additive being advantageously commercially available.

Phytic acid is the additive that improves the dispersibility of the pigment in a preferred aqueous composition.

The method may comprise, before step a), a step aO) of mixing a pigment with an additive as defined above to obtain a pretreated pigment. For example, the preparation method described in application WO 2012/120098 can be used.

In this first embodiment of the method according to the second alternative using a pretreated pigment, the method may include a step b) of grinding the pretreated pigment or be free of it. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase (s) of the colored particles and / or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the (es) phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it.

This grinding step can be carried out in the presence of a binder, or in the absence of a binder (dry grinding).

The binder is for example glycerine, propanediol, a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane. Preferably, when the pigment is not pretreated or when it is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an aqueous composition, the binder is chosen from propanediol, glycerin and a hydrogenated starch hydrolyzate. Preferably, when the pigment is treated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily composition, the binder is chosen from glycerin, octyldodecanol, castor oil, a mineral oil, isononyl isononanoate, dimethicone and cyclomethicone, isododecane.

The mill is then typically chosen from three-cylinder mills, ball mills and plate mills.

When the milling step is carried out in the absence of a binder, the mill can be a pin mill, a jet micronizer, an impact mill, a hammer mill, a knife mill, a ball mill , a vibrating mill or a cryogenic mill.

According to a second embodiment of the method according to the second alternative, the at least one pigment from step a) is not pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility, and the method then comprises a step b) of grinding the pigment. This grinding makes it possible to limit, or even eliminate, the aggregates of pretreated pigments, which facilitates their subsequent incorporation into the phase (s) of the colored particles and / or contributes to reducing the sedimentation of the pigment in the (es) phase (s) of the colored particles which contain it.

The embodiments described above for grinding are of course applicable (type of grinder, absence or presence of binder).

Whatever the alternative and the embodiment of the process considered, it comprises a step c) consisting in formulating at least one pigment, in the form of a series of colored particles comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment ( s).

Preferably, the pigment is that obtained in step a) or b). A liquid comprising a ground and / or pretreated pigment as defined above has indeed a lower viscosity than a liquid comprising an unground and untreated pigment. A liquid comprising a ground and / or pretreated pigment can therefore be formulated much more easily in the form of a series of colored particles. In addition, the phase that contains the pigment will be less prone to pigment sedimentation.

Generally, the colored particles formulated in step c) include all or part of at least one polysaccharide, and in particular at least one partially or fully gelled polyelectrolyte.

In a first embodiment, the formulation of step c) uses a liquid solution which comprises both the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and

- either a polyelectrolyte,

- or a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with a polyelectrolyte.

Typically, step c) according to this first embodiment comprises the following substeps:

C1a) mixing the at least one pigment, preferably obtained in step a) or b), with a liquid solution containing at least one liquid polyelectrolyte capable of gelling,

C1b) drop by drop the mixture obtained in step C1a) in a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte to make it pass at least partially from a liquid state to a gelled state;

C1c) recovery of the colored particles formed, or else step c) comprises the following sub-steps:

C2a) mixing the at least one pigment, preferably obtained in step a) or b), with a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with a polyelectrolyte,

C2b) drop by drop the mixture obtained in step C2a) into a liquid solution containing a liquid polyelectrolyte capable of gelling, whereby the polyelectrolyte (in the immediate vicinity of the drops of mixture obtained in step C2a) passes to less partially from a liquid state to a gelled state;

C2c) recovery of the colored particles formed.

The polyelectrolyte is preferably a polyelectrolyte reactive with multivalent ions, in particular a polysaccharide reactive with multivalent ions such as an alkali alginate, a gelan, a pectin, a cellulose or a derivative of cellulose, such as carboxymethylcellulose, or agar-agar. Preferably, it is an alkaline alginate, such as sodium alginate.

The reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte to bring it from a liquid state to a gelled state is typically a solution comprising multivalent ions such as ions of an alkaline earth metal chosen for example from calcium ions, ions barium, magnesium ions.

When the liquid solution used in step C1a) or C2a) is oily, the pigment used in step a) is preferably a non-pretreated pigment or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an oily composition .

When the liquid solution used in step C1a) or C2a) is aqueous, the pigment used in step a) is preferably a non-pretreated pigment or a pigment pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility within an aqueous composition .

The mixture obtained in step C1a) or C1b) preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, in particular more than 15% by weight, for example between 20 and 50% by weight of pigment (s) (cumulative content when there is has several pigments). Such proportions are in fact adapted so that the proportion by mass of pigment (s) of the colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight.

The solution used in step C2a) can also comprise at least one thickening agent, for example a polysaccharide such as xanthan.

During step C1b), the drops are immersed in the solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte. In step C2b), the drops are immersed in the polyelectrolyte solution. The adaptation of the duration of step C1b) or C2b) makes it possible to obtain partially or totally gelled particles. When all of the polyelectrolyte gels, the colored particles formed are "solid particles", also called monophasic particles. When the polyelectrolyte only partially passes from a liquid state to a gelled state, the colored particles comprise a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the liquid core. This adaptation of the duration of step C1b) or C2b) falls within the general knowledge of a person skilled in the art.

In a second embodiment, the formulation of step c) implements two distinct liquid solutions, one which comprises the pigment, preferably obtained in step a) or b), and the other which comprises a polyelectrolyte. The colored particles include a heart and an envelope completely encapsulating the heart. Generally, the at least one pigment is in the phase (one of the phases) forming the heart. Advantageously, the pigment (s) do not migrate into the envelope, which means that it does not bleed out of the particles.

The colored particles may comprise a liquid core or at least partially gelled or at least partially thixotropic containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the heart. This liquid or at least partly gelled or at least partly thixotropic heart may be based on a mainly oily phase. In this case, if a pretreated pigment has been used in the process, it is a pretreated pigment with an additive that improves the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily composition. This heart can be based on a mainly aqueous phase. In this case, if a pretreated pigment has been used in the process, it is a pretreated pigment with an additive which improves the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous composition.

When the colored particles comprise a core containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and a gelled envelope completely encapsulating the core, step c) typically comprises the following substeps:

C3a) separate conveying in a double envelope of a first liquid solution containing the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), and of a second liquid solution containing at least a liquid polyelectrolyte capable of gelling;

C3b) formation, at the exit of the double envelope, of a series of drops, each drop comprising a central core formed by the first liquid solution, and a peripheral film formed by the second solution and completely covering the central core, where the second solution (40) contains at least one surfactant before contact with the first solution;

C3c) detachment of each liquid body away from the double envelope and fall of each liquid body in a volume of air;

C3d) immersion of each drop in a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte of the film to make it pass from a liquid state to a gelled state and form the gelled envelope, the central core forming the heart; and

C3e) recovery of the colored particles formed.

Preferably, the first liquid solution is an aqueous composition comprising, or even consisting of, the pigment (s), preferably obtained in step a) or b), optionally a binder, in particular as defined above, at least one preservative and at least one polymer, in particular chosen from hyaluronic acid or one of its salts, carrageenan, lagellan, a polysiloxane, and their mixtures.

The first liquid solution preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, in particular more than 20% by weight, for example between 25 and 50% by weight of pigment (s) (cumulative content when there are several pigments). Such proportions are in fact adapted so that the proportion by mass of pigment (s) of the colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight, preferably greater than 5% by weight.

The surfactant is in particular chosen from an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant or their mixtures. Preferably, it is chosen from an alkylsulfate, an alkylsulfonate, an alkylarylsulfonate, an alkaline alkylphosphate, a dialkylsulfosuccinate, an alkaline earth salt of saturated or unsaturated fatty acids, an alkylpyridium halide salt or alkylammonium such as n-ethyldodecylammonium chloride or bromide, cetylamonium chloride or bromide, polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated derivatives of fatty alcohols, fatty acids or alkylphenols, or among arylphenols, alkyl glucosides, polysorbates, cocamides or their mixtures. Preferably, it is sodium dodecyl sulfate.

The or each poyelectrolyte and the reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte are preferably as defined above.

The second liquid solution containing a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelling may also contain a nacre and / or a dye, preferably of a different color than that of the pigment of the first liquid solution.

For example, according to this second embodiment, the formulation of step c) can be implemented by following the method described in application WO 2010/063937.

The core of the colored particles may comprise an intermediate drop of an intermediate phase, the intermediate phase being placed in contact with the gelled envelope, and at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of an internal phase placed in the drop. intermediate. Step c) then typically comprises the following sub-steps:

C4a) separate conveying in a triple envelope of an internal phase intended to form the internal drop (s) of the heart, of an intermediate phase intended to form the intermediate drop of the heart, and of a first solution containing a polyelectrolyte liquid suitable for gelling intended to form the gelled envelope, said first solution preferably containing a surfactant;

C4b) formation at the outlet of the triple envelope of a series of liquid bodies, each liquid body comprising at least one, preferably a single, internal drop of internal phase disposed in an intermediate drop of intermediate phase, said intermediate drop being coated a peripheral film formed from the first solution;

C4c) detachment of each liquid body away from the triple envelope and fall of each liquid body in a volume of air;

C4d) immersion of each liquid body in a solution containing a reagent capable of reacting with the polyelectrolyte of the film to bring it from a liquid state to a gelled state and to form the gelled envelope;

C4e) recovery of the colored particles formed, preferably with a ratio of the volume of the heart to the volume of the envelope greater than 2, advantageously less than 50, where the internal phase and / or the intermediate phase contains the pigment (s) ), preferably obtained in step a) or b). Preferably, the internal phase is that which contains the pigment (s). Preferably, the intermediate phase is that which contains the pigment (s).

The polyelectrolyte, the surfactant and the reagent are preferably as defined above.

The first solution containing a liquid polyelectrolyte suitable for gelling intended to form the gelled envelope may further comprise a nacre (nacres) and / or at least one dye, preferably of a color different from that of the pigment contained in the phase. internal and / or the intermediate phase.

Generally one of the phases among the internal phase and the intermediate phase is aqueous and the other is oily. For example, the intermediate phase is an aqueous composition comprising, or even consisting of the pigment (s), optionally a binder, in particular as defined above, at least one preservative and at least one polymer, in particular chosen from hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof, carrageenan, gellan, a polysiloxane, and mixtures thereof, and the internal phase is a vegetable oil such as almond, apricot or jojoba oil.

The intermediate phase preferably comprises more than 10% by weight, in particular more than 20% by weight, for example between 25 and 50% by weight of pigment (cumulative content when there are several pigments). Such proportions are in fact adapted so that the proportion by mass of pigment of the colored particles obtained at the end of the process is greater than 3% by weight.

For example, the formulation of step c) can be implemented by following the method described in application WO 2012/089820.

A solution comprising a ground and / or pretreated pigment as defined above has a lower viscosity than a solution comprising an unground and untreated pigment. Generally, the viscosity:

- of the mixture obtained in step C1a),

- of the mixture obtained in step C2a),

- of the first liquid solution of step C3a),

- the internal phase containing the pigment (s) from step C4a) and / or the intermediate phase containing the pigment (s) from step C4b), is comprised of 1 mPa.s at 500,000 mPa.s, preferably from 10 mPa.s to 300,000 mPa.s, better from 400 mPa.s to 100,000 mPa.s, and more particularly from 1,000 mPa.s to 30,000 mPa.s, as measured at 25 ° C and at ambient pressure (1013 mbar). The viscosity can be measured with a Brookfield model Viscosimeter LVDV2T at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute.

These viscosities can be adapted using a gelling agent, in particular as defined above. For example :

- the mixture obtained in step C1a),

- the mixture obtained in step C2a),

- the first liquid solution from step C3a),

the internal phase containing the pigment (s) from step C4a) and / or the intermediate phase containing the pigment (s) from step C4b), comprises a gelling agent, in particular as defined above.

Whichever embodiment is used, the method can comprise, after step c), a step d) of rinsing the colored particles.

The invention also relates to a series of colored particles capable of being obtained by the above process, said particles comprising at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, in particular at least 13% by weight of pigment (s).

The invention also relates to the use of at least one series of colored particles for introduction into a cosmetic composition.

The particles or series of particles according to the invention can in particular be used in the cosmetic field.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition, preferably a makeup composition comprising at least one series of colored particles.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can comprise, in addition to the abovementioned ingredients, at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

The invention therefore also relates to a composition comprising at least one particle as defined above or at least one series of particles as defined above, in association with an acceptable physiological medium.

The term “physiologically acceptable medium” is intended to denote a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, the nails, the eyelashes or the eyebrows, and preferably the skin.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support on which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the aspect under which the composition is to be conditioned.

The presence of a physiologically acceptable medium can contribute to improving the conservation and / or preserving the integrity over time of the colored particles according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the physiologically acceptable medium is in the form of an aqueous gel, the viscosity of which is adapted to ensure the suspension of the colored particles according to the invention.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic compositions are used for making up and / or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be care, sun protection, cleansing (make-up removing), hygiene or make-up products for the skin.

These compositions are therefore intended to be applied in particular to the skin, the lips or the hair.

Thus, the present invention also relates to the non-therapeutic cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition mentioned above, as a make-up, hygiene, cleaning and / or care product for keratin materials, in particular the skin.

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention are in the form of a foundation, a makeup remover, a facial and / or body and / or hair treatment, an anti-treatment -age, a sunscreen, an oily skin treatment, a whitening treatment, a hydrating treatment, a BB cream, tinted cream or foundation, a face and / or body cleanser , shower gel or shampoo.

A care composition according to the invention may in particular be a sunscreen composition, a care cream, a serum or a deodorant.

The compositions according to the invention can be in various forms, in particular in the form of a cream, balm, lotion, serum, gel, gel-cream or even mist.

In particular, a composition according to the invention is a composition for caring for and / or making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, and is in particular a foundation composition.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of a keratin material, in particular of the skin, lips or hair, comprising at least one step of applying to said keratin material at least one composition according to the invention. 'invention.

In particular, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips or hair, comprising a step of applying to the skin at least one composition according to the invention.

The cosmetic composition preferably comprises at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), in particular at least 5%, for example at least 7.5% by weight of pigment (s). The maximum mass proportion of pigment (s) in the composition is generally 50%, even 30%.

The coloration imparted by the colored particles can for example be measured by spectrocolorimetry and / or spectrophotocolorimetry.

More particularly, the cosmetic composition may for example be mascara, a product for the complexion, such as a foundation, a liner (“eyeliner” in English), an eyeshadow or cheek, a product for the lips such as lipstick or lip gloss (lip-gloss), possibly liquid soap, shampoo, conditioner, nail polish, preferably eyeshadow, skin tone products or lip products. The cosmetic composition can be in the form of a monophasic or biphasic lotion, water in oil or oil in water emulsion, gel, stick or cream.

The makeup composition preferably has a coverage greater than or equal to 10, in particular greater than or equal to 15, or even preferably greater than or equal to 40, preferably greater than or equal to approximately 45, in particular greater than or equal to approximately 50, in particular greater than or equal to equal to approximately 60, more particularly greater than or equal to approximately 80, in particular varying from 90 to 100, or even approximately 100. The coverage corresponds to the capacity of the makeup composition to "hide the skin" / to "hide the imperfections >>.

The coverage of the compositions is measured at a finished thickness of 50 μm for liquid compositions at 25 ° C. to be applied to the lips, in particular liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses and liquid lip balms, and with a thickness of 150 pm for eyeshadows, liquid foundations, mascaras and other liquid makeup products not intended to be applied to the lips. The composition is spread over mat black and mat white contrast cards, for example of the LENETA Form WPI brand for the mat black card and Leneta IA for the mat white card. The application can be carried out with an automatic spreader. The measurements are made on the compositions thus spread. Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and observation D65 / 10 ⁰ , specular component mode excluded, small aperture (CREISS)) on black and white backgrounds. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the CIELab76 space within the meaning of the International Lighting Commission according to recommendation 15: 2004. The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by taking the arithmetic mean of Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100.

The expressions "ranging between ... and ... >>," ranging from ... to ... >> and "ranging from ... to ... >> must be understood bounds included, except if the opposite is specified.

The examples below illustrate the invention without limiting its scope.

Example 1 Influence of the Treatment of a Pigment with an Additive Improving its Dispersibility and of Grinding on the Quality of the Pigment Dispersion

Different pigment dispersions (white, black, yellow and red pigments) in glycerin were prepared with the compositions indicated in Table 1. The additive used to improve the dispersibility of the pigments in the aqueous phase is phytic acid.

îo · Preparation of a dispersion 1 of pigments treated and not ground

A dispersion of white, black, yellow and red pigments treated with phytic acid on the surface in glycerin was prepared with a pigment / glycerin weight proportion of 1/1 using the compositions indicated in Table 1.

Component Nature (INCI) Provider Mass (g) White pigment treated with phytic acid CI77891 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 41.5 Yellow pigment treated with phytic acid CI77492 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 5.5 Black pigment treated with phytic acid CI77499 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 0.6 Red pigment treated with phytic acid CI77491 (and) Phytic Acid (and) Sodium Hydroxide Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 2.4 Glycerin - 50.0

Table 1: Composition of the pigment dispersion comprising treated pigments

With propeller stirring (Ika), the pigments were incorporated into the glycerin. Stirring was continued for 30 min at 600 rpm.

The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, fluid. Its viscosity at

25 ° C was 7.32 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 12.2.

The dispersion was placed between two glass plates. Dots were then visible. The color develops between the glass plate.

• Preparation of a dispersion 2 of treated and ground pigments

The composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of Table 1. The following protocol was followed: In a beaker, with stirring with a propeller at

600 revolutions per minute for 30 min, the treated pigments were gradually incorporated into the glycerin. The mixture was then ground in a three-roll mill (EXAKT 50i) with three consecutive passes through the mill. This grinding corresponds to step b) defined in the request.

The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, fluid. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 5.46 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 2.9.

It was placed between two glass plates and appeared homogeneous, with no heap / pigment agglomeration / color dots. The color remained stable.

· Preparation of a dispersion 3 of untreated, unground crushed pigments

A dispersion of untreated white, black, yellow and red pigments in glycerin was prepared with a proportion by weight of pigments / glycerin of 1/1 according to the compositions indicated in Table 2.

Component Nature (INCI) Provider Mass (g) White Pigment CI77891 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 41.5 Yellow Pigment CI77492 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 5.5 Pigment Black CI77499 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 0.6 Pigment CI77491 Sensient Cosmetic Technologies 2.4 Glycerin - 50.0 Table 2: Composite tion of the pigment dispersion comprising pigments not

treaties

With propeller stirring (Ika), the pigments were incorporated into the glycerin. Stirring was continued for 30 min at 600 rpm. The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, thick. Its viscosity at 25 ° C at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30 s, was too great to be measured with the above-mentioned device.

It was placed between two glass plates. White, black and red dots have been observed. The color develops between the glass plate.

• Preparation of a dispersion 4 of untreated and ground pigments

The composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of Table 2. The following protocol was followed: In a beaker, with stirring with a propeller at

600 revolutions per minute for 30 min, the untreated pigments were gradually incorporated into the glycerin. The mixture was then ground in a three-roll mill ίο (EXAKT 50i) with three consecutive passes through the mill. This grinding corresponds to step b) defined in the request.

The viscosity of the dispersion obtained at 25 ° C at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30 s, was too high to be measured with the above-mentioned device.

The viscosities of the dispersions and the size distributions of the pigment particles are provided in Table 3 below.

Dispersion D10 (pm) D50 (pm) D90 (pm) viscosity 3 Untreated, ungrounded pigments 3.19 5.09 7.89 Too thick cannot be measured 4 Untreated ground pigments 2.69 4.10 5.91 Too thick cannot be measured 1 Pigments treated phytic acid no crushed 0.32 0.47 1.01 7.32 Pa, s 2 Crushed phytic acid treated pigments 0.42 1.49 0.68 5.46 Pa, s Table 3: Viscosities of c ispersions and particle size distributions of

pigments

The particle size was measured by laser diffraction using a Model HORIBA LA-960S particle size analyzer.

These examples show that the treatment of the pigment with phytic acid and the grinding make it possible to thin the pigment dispersion and to improve the dispersion of the pigment in the dispersion. The most satisfactory dispersion is that obtained from pigments treated with phytic acid and ground. The higher the quality of the dispersion, the more the particles prepared from the dispersion can have a high pigment content.

Example 2 Preparation of colored particles comprising a liquid core and an envelope based on gelled alginate

White, yellow, black and red pigments pretreated with phytic acid were used to prepare colored particles with a high pigment content.

• Preparation of a pigment dispersion

A dispersion of white, black, yellow and red pigments treated with phytic acid on the surface in glycerin was prepared with a pigment / glycerin weight proportion of 1/1 according to the compositions indicated in table 1 of the example 1.

The composition of the pigment dispersion is also that of said table.

1.

The following protocol was followed: In a beaker, with propeller stirring at 500 revolutions per minute for 1 min, the treated pigments were gradually incorporated into 30 g of glycerin. The mixture was very viscous.

It was then ground in a three-cylinder mill (EXAKT 50i) with three consecutive passes through the mill. This grinding corresponds to step b) defined in the request. The mill was then cleaned with the 20 g of glycerin remaining to obtain the pigments treated in glycerine. The particle size measured by laser diffraction using a Model HORIBA LA-960S particle size analyzer was D10: 0.42 - D50: 1.49 - D90: 0.68.

The pigment dispersion obtained was smooth, shiny, very viscous. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 5.46 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 13.3.

Colored particles were then formulated using a millifluidic process like that described in application WO 2010/063937, in particular from a solution comprising glycerin (used as binder during grinding), the pretreated pigments crushed obtained above, preservatives and a hyaluronic acid gel.

• Preparation of a hyaluronic acid gel

A hyaluronic acid gel having the composition specified in Table 4 was prepared.

Component Provider Mass (g) Phenoxyethanol (conservative) Thor 0.8 pentylene glycol (preservative) Symrise 0.2 Hyaluronic acid Lehvoss 0.95 Distilled water - 96.25

Table 4: Composition of hyaluronic acid gel

The following protocol was followed: In a beaker, the distilled water and the preservatives were mixed. The hyaluronic acid was then gradually incorporated in fine rain with stirring with a propeller (Ika Eurostar 60 device). îo The agitation was maintained until a transparent, homogeneous gel was obtained. Its viscosity at 25 ° C was 2.1 Pa.s at a speed of 10 revolutions per minute and at module 4, for 30s, torque 3.5 measured with a Brookfield model device

LVDV2T viscometer.

· Incorporation of the pigment dispersion in the hyaluronic acid gel

Component Expl 1 Expl 2 Expl 3 Expl 4 Expl 5 mass of hyaluronic acid gel (g) 4 2 3 1 0.5 mass of pigment dispersion (g) 6 8 7 9 9 distilled water (mL) - - - 0.5 mass pigment content compared to hyaluronic acid gel 30% 40% 35% 45% 45% Viscosity (Pa.s) (Module 4, speed: 10 rpm, 30 s Temperature: 25 ° C) 2.40 (torque 4.0) 2.64 (torque 4.4) 2.46 (torque 4.1) 3.24 (torque 5.4) 1.74 (torque 2.9) Table 5: Composition of age of acid hyaluronic including dispersion

pigmentary.

• Preparation of colored particles by implementing steps C3a) to

C3e).

A mixture (= mixture A) of 54% by weight of pigmented hyaluronic acid gel obtained and of 46% by weight of unpigmented hyaluronic acid gel having the composition indicated in Table 4, was used as the first liquid solution in the method described in application WO 2010/063937.

The process for preparing capsules is based (i) on a millifluidic process like that described in application WO 2010/063937 and thus (ii) on the implementation of the following three solutions:

îo - mixture A as the first liquid solution intended to form the core of the particles,

- an aqueous solution at 3% by weight of sodium alginate as second liquid solution intended to form the gelled envelope of the particles, and

- a third solution comprising a calcium bath dedicated to gel the second solution and thus allow the formation of the gelled envelope of the particles.

Composition of the calcium bath

Last name Provider INCI Name % w / w Osmotic water / Aqua qs Calcium chloride Calcium chlorid 20.00 Tween 20 Polysorbate 20 0.10 TOTAL 100.00

The flow rates considered at the millifluidic device level are:

Solution Debit (in ml / h) first solution 17.5 second solution 5

According to a particular embodiment, the particles can then be stored / preserved in a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular an aqueous suspending gel as described below.

Physiologically acceptable environment Last name Provider INCI Name % w / w Osmotic water / Aqua qs MICROCARE PE Thor PHENOXYETHANOL, AQUA 0.5 MICROCARE EMOLLIENT PTG Thor PENTYLENE GLYCOL, AQUA 3.00 GLYCERIN CODEX Interchemy GLYCERIN, AQUA 6.00 ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL Dupont Tate & Lyle PROPANEDIOL, AQUA 4.00 RHODICARE T Rhodia XANTHAN GUM, AQUA 0.46 HEPES-LUV Hopax HYDROXYETHYLPIPERAZINE ETHANE SULFONIC ACID, AQUA 0.50 SODIUM HYDROXIDE PELLETS PRS CODEX Panréac SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.03 Total 100.00

Phase used Expl 1 Expl 2 Expl 3 Expl 4 Expl 5 mass proportion of pigment in colored particles obtained at the end of step c) 13.8% 18.4% 16.1% 20.7% 20.7%

Table 6: mass proportion of pigment in the colored particles obtained

The colored particles obtained included very large mass proportions of pigments (between 13 and 21% by mass of pigment), which makes them particularly suitable for being introduced into makeup compositions, and very particularly foundation.

• Preparation of a makeup composition

Make-up compositions comprising 55% by weight of colored particles obtained were prepared.

Phase used Expl 1 Expl 2 Expl 3 Expl 4 Expl 5 mass proportion of pigment in the makeup composition prepared 7.59% 10.12% 8.8% 11.39% 11.39%

Table 7: mass proportion of pigment in the makeup compositions prepared

The compositions advantageously have a high pigment content, which makes them suitable for make-up applications, and very particularly for foundation.

Claims (15)

1. - Process for preparing a colored particle or a series of colored particles comprising the steps consisting in: a) providing at least one pigment optionally pretreated with an additive improving the dispersibility of the pigment, then b) optionally grinding said at least one pigment, said grinding taking place when the at least one pigment is not pretreated, c) formulating the at least one pigment obtained in step a) or b) in the form of a particle comprising at least 3% by weight of pigment (s), or of a series of colored particles in which each colored particle contains at least 3% by weight of pigment (s). 2. - Method according to claim 1, wherein the at least one pigment is organic, inorganic or organic-inorganic hybrid nature. 3. - Method according to claim 2, wherein the at least one pigment is inorganic, and is chosen from titanium dioxide, zinc dioxide, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides , manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and their mixtures. 4. - Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one pigment of step a) is pretreated with an additive improving its dispersibility. 5. - Process according to claim 4, in which the additive improves the dispersibility of the pigment within an aqueous composition and has the following formula (I): O f (M) o) —p4or) 'i / m / n \ / 3-n V / ’in which: - n represents 1 or 2, - M represents H or a cation, - m represents 1 when M is H and m represents the valence of the cation when M is a cation, - R represents: - a group G chosen from a saccharide or a group - [CH ₂ -CHR ₁ -O] _q -R ₂ or - [CH ₂ -CH (CH ₂ OH) -O] _q -R ₂ where: - q represents an integer from 1 to 1000, - for each CH ₂ -CHR ₁ -O unit, Rt independently represents H or methyl, R ₂ represents H or an alkyl comprising from 1 to 3 carbon atoms, and, - A hydrocarbon chain comprising from 1 to 500 carbon atoms substituted by one or more groups G, phosphate (of formula OPO ₃ (M) _{2 / m} ) and / or hydroxyl (OH). 6. Method according to claim 5, in which the additive has the following formula (III) or (V): O (M) 1 / m HO-CH-CH-CH-O-P = O 2 l 2 i OH (III) O (M) 1 / m (M) OnPO 2 / m | ΟΡΟΛΜ) 2 / m (V) in which M and m are as defined in claim 5. 7. - Method according to claim 4, wherein the additive improves the dispersibility of the pigment within an oily composition and is chosen from hydrogenated lecithin, a silicone, a wax, an amino acid or a salt thereof and a amino acid ester or a salt thereof. 8. - Method according to any one of claims 4 to 7, comprising a step b) of grinding the pretreated pigment. 9. - Method according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one pigment from step a) is not pretreated, and the method comprises a step b) of grinding the pigment. 10. - Colored particle or series of colored particles capable of being obtained by the process according to any one of claims 1 to 9, said colored particle, or each colored particle of said series, comprising at least 3% by weight, generally at least 5% by weight, in particular at least 10% by weight, typically at 5 minus 13% by weight of pigment (s). 11. - colored particle or series of colored particles according to claim 10, in which the diameter of the colored particle or the average diameter of the series of colored particles is from 0.1 mm to 10 mm. 12. - Colored particle or series of colored particles according to claim 10 or 11, comprising a dye and / or a nacre. 13. - Colored particle or series of colored particles according to any one of claims 10 to 12, comprising a heart and an envelope completely encapsulating the heart. 14. - colored particle or series of colored particles according to claim 13, in which the heart comprises one or more phases, the at least one pigment being 20 in the phase or one of the phases forming the heart. 15. Cosmetic composition, in particular make-up composition, comprising a colored particle or a series of colored particles according to any one of claims 10 to 14.