FR3060388A1 - COSMETIC FACE CARE FORMULATIONS TO STIMULATE THE ORGANISM'S DEFENSES AGAINST FREE RADICALS - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological composition for the topical treatment of the skin, containing, in addition to theophylline and at least one Quassia Amara extract, one or more radical scavenger (s) derived from the group - Dimethylmethoxy chromanol - Vitamin C - Hydroxytyrosol - Epigallocatechin gallate - Arginine - bis-2-ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl malonate - polyphenols (resveratrol, silymarin, apigenin, etc.) - suitable carotenoids (lycopenes, etc.) - to stimulate the body's defenses against radicals and / or - to provide enzymes for the detoxification of heavy metals (metallothionein) and / or - to provide protection against cellular damage (by oxidation) and / or - to provide protection against aging of the skin and / or - to smooth the surface of the skin and / or - to smooth wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or - to compensate for irregularities of the skin and / or - to obtain a more even skin tone.

Description

Holder (s): HENKEL AG & CO. KGAA.

Extension request (s)

Agent (s): OFFICE ERNEST T. FREYLINGER S.A ..

FR 3 060 388 - A1 @ to.

(§ /) Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical treatment of the skin, containing, in addition to theophylline and at least one Quassia Amara extract, one or more radical scavenger (s) from the group

- Dimethylmethoxy chromanol

- Vitamin C

- Hydroxytyrosol

- Epigallocatechin gallate

- Arginine

- Bis-2-ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl malonate

- polyphenols (resveratrol, silymarin, apigenin, etc.)

- appropriate carotenoids (lycopenes, etc.)

- to stimulate the body's defenses against radicals and / or

- to provide enzymes for the detoxification of heavy metals (metallothionein) and / or

- to provide protection against cellular damage (by oxidation) and / or

- to provide protection against aging of the skin and / or

- to smooth the surface of the skin and / or

- to smooth wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or

- to compensate for irregularities in the skin and / or

- to obtain a more uniform skin tone.

The invention belongs to the field of cosmetics and relates to cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, resulting in an increase in protection against cellular damage by oxidation and a minimization of the side effects associated with aging of the skin.

Aging of the skin is characterized by a number of structural changes. It leads to the reduction of the thickness of the epidermis, the flattening of the dermo-epidermal junction line, the degradation of the matrix proteins and the glycosylation of the matrix proteins. Besides the chronological or intrinsic aging of the skin, determined by genetics, the aging processes are accelerated by extrinsic factors. These extrinsic factors include exposure of the skin to free radicals, which is also called "oxidative stress."

Free radicals can be formed by various harmful substances present in the environment, but also by cellular respiration. They react with other cellular components and thus lead to structural changes in biomolecules (such as proteins), which results in impaired functionality of these molecules. The appearance of dry skin, the reduction of skin elasticity and the formation of wrinkles are often the visible consequences of these dysfunctions.

In addition, we know that exposure to environmental toxins is constantly increasing. One of the main causes of this is the continuous development of urbanization, associated with an increase in the consumption of fossil fuels. Environmental toxins are largely made up of fine particles, oxides such as nitrogen oxides, sulfoxides or heavy metal oxides. As the body's outer barrier, the skin is particularly exposed to these environmental toxins.

The strictly chemical radical scavengers - such as vitamin E and its derivatives for example - have only a limited antioxidant effect and lose their ability to neutralize other radicals by binding to various redox processes. On the other hand, the skin has a multitude of internal cellular biological systems which can neutralize radicals over a long period.

However, the effectiveness of internal cellular biological systems providing protection against the negative effects of free radicals decreases continuously with age and with increased stress.

One of the objectives of the production of numerous cosmetic compositions for the care of the skin is therefore to stimulate said internal cellular biological systems ensuring protection against the negative effects of free radicals:

Cosmetic compositions containing vitamin E as an antioxidant are disclosed in US 4144325 and US 4248861, as well as in numerous other documents.

Documents JP 58180410A and DE 3309850A disclose cosmetic compositions which contain the antioxidant coenzyme Q-10, in order to activate the metabolism of skin cells, to suppress oxidation and thus prevent skin damage caused by ultraviolet rays and by aging. skin.

EP 1002533A1 describes the use of 2,2-dimethylchromans and 2,2-dimethylchromenes as antioxidants in compositions for topical administration.

However, recent studies have shown that the positive effect of certain proven antioxidants (vitamin A, vitamin E) on aging processes in skin cell cultures depends on the level of concentration and that some of these antioxidants can also have an effect. toxic at too high concentrations.

The mission of the present invention was therefore to discover combinations of cosmetic compositions which make it possible to obtain maximum antioxidant effects, optimally with minimum amounts, synergistically, which have good skin tolerance and which are suitable for the prevention of cellular damage by oxidation and associated side effects of aging skin.

At the same time, these combinations of active ingredients must not harm the healing effects as well as the stability of the cosmetic compositions.

Surprisingly, it has been found that the combination of theophylline with an extract of bitter quassia (Quassia amara) and at least one specific radical fixer achieves the above-mentioned mission remarkably. It stimulates the body's cellular defense against free radicals and thus helps to provide a global defense against radicals.

The object of the present invention is therefore, in a first embodiment, a multitude of cosmetic or dermatological compositions for the topical treatment of the skin, which contain

a) theophylline,

b) at least one extract of Quassia amara, and

c) one or more radical scavenger (s) from the group consisting of c1) dimethylmethoxy chromanol c2) vitamin C c3) hydroxytyrosol c4) epigallocatechin gallate c5) arginine c6) bis-2-ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl malonate c7) polyphenols (resveratrol, silymarin, apigenin, etc.) c8) carotenoids (lycopenes, etc.).

Theophylline and Quassia amara wood extract have been shown to significantly increase the body's defenses against free radicals, in particular by acting on the key enzymes in the melatonin synthesis pathway. only by the contribution of metallothionein, an enzyme for detoxification of heavy metal ions.

The additional combination of these active ingredients with small amounts of specific radical scavengers, with immediate chemical action, c1) to c8), results in overall protection of the skin against cellular damage by oxidation and therefore against premature aging.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention contain theophylline a) preferably in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight, more preferably from 0.0005 to 0.09% by weight. weight, even more preferably from 0.00075 to 0.08% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.001 to 0.07 and in particular 0.001 to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Quassia amara (quassia from Suriname, quassia wood, bitter wood or Cayenne quinine), or bitter wood according to some of the different species, is a plant species from the Simaroubaceae family. It is very widespread in the neotropic. The extracts used according to the invention are preferably obtained from wood, leaves, flowers, fruits, particularly preferably from wood.

Quassia amara extracts can be obtained according to known production methods, in variable composition with solvents such as water, methanol, ethanol, acetone, etc., and their mixtures, at temperatures ranging from room temperature at 100 ° C, at a slight viscous dilution within 10 min. at 24 hours, at normal pressure up to 200 bar. In order to enrich the components which are decisive for the effectiveness of the agent, it is possible to carry out other concentration steps such as, for example. fluid-fluid distribution with e.g. 1-butanol / water or ethyl acetate / water, adsorption desorption on ion exchanger, LH20, HP20 and other resins or chromatographic separations by RP18, silica gel, etc. If an additional treatment is desired in order to obtain dry extracts, this is carried out according to methods known in themselves by removing the solvent at high temperature and / or under reduced pressure. The data relating to the proportion by weight of Quassia amara relative to the total weight of the agent according to the invention refers to the dry mass of the extract.

An extract obtained by extracting Quassia amara wood with water is very particularly preferred according to the invention. This is also known under the name INCI QUASSIA AMARA WOOD EXTRACT.

The commercial product of Quassia amara extract may also contain, in addition to the extractant, additional solvents to improve the shelf life of the product. These antimicrobial solvents are for example propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and pentylene glycol.

In another embodiment, it may also be preferable for the extract to contain at least one polar solvent, selected from ethanol, 1 propanol, 2-propanol, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, ethylene glycol, 1,2propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin and water, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention contain Quassia amara extract (s) b) preferably in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0 , 2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably from 0.3 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.4 to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The radical fixer (s) c1) to c8) are used in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention, preferably in an amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, in which the quantity indications relate to the total quantity of ingredients c1) to c8). In other words, an agent according to the invention can for example contain 1% by weight of vitamin C and is therefore (because the upper limit is reached) free from other radical scavengers from the above-mentioned group. Of course, an agent according to the invention can also contain two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight or an even greater number of the above-mentioned radical scavengers, the total quantity of all these substances then having to be selected within the range ranging from 0.0001 to 1% by weight.

Preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention therefore contain one or more radical scavenger (s) from group c1) to c8) preferably in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.0001 to 1% by weight , more preferably from 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in which the quantity indications refer to the total quantity of the ingredients c1) to c8).

Taking into account the total amount of all the substances c1) to c8) in the range from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, the agents according to the invention of the following embodiments are particularly preferred:

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of dimethylmethoxy chromanol (lipochroman).

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of vitamin C.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to

0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of hydroxytyrosol.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of epigallocatechin gallate.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of arginine.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of bis-2ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl malonate.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of polyphenols.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of resveratrol.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to

0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of silymarin.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of apigenin.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of carotenoids.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing - relative to their weight - 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, more preferably 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably 0.00075 to 0.6% by weight weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight of lycopenes.

The compositions according to the invention contain the combination of active principles a) to c) in an appropriate cosmetic support. As such, preferably means a topical support, which is preferably an aqueous or hydroalcoholic support. Preferably, the support contains - relative to its total weight - at least 40% by weight, more preferably at least 45% by weight, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight and in particular 55% by weight in water .

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized by a water content between 50 to 85% by weight, particularly preferably 60 to 80% by weight and in particular 65 to 75% by weight.

In addition, the cosmetic support may preferably contain 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to

17.5% by weight and in particular 3 to 15% by weight of at least one alcohol, which can be selected from ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, isopropanol, glycerin, diglycerin , triglycerin, 1-butanol, 2-butanol, 1,2butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1-pentanol, 2-pentanol, 1,2-pentanediol,

1,5-pentanediol, 1-hexanol, 2-hexanol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,6hexanediol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sorbitan, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol or mixtures of these alcohols. Water-soluble alcohols are preferred.

Ethanol, 1-propanol, 2-propanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,6hexanediol and / or sorbitol as well as mixtures of these alcohols are preferred. Glycerin, sorbitol and / or 1,6-hexanediol are in particular preferred.

The use of polyols d) has proven to be particularly advantageous for the cosmetic effect of the compositions according to the invention.

The particularly preferred cosmetic compositions therefore preferably contain 0.1 to 30% by weight, more preferably 0.5 to 25% by weight, even more preferably 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 17 , 5% by weight and in particular 3 to 15% by weight of at least one polyol d), which is preferably selected from glycerin, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1 , 6-hexanediol and / or sorbitol.

The quantity indications relate to the weight of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

In addition, according to the invention, it has been found to be particularly advantageous for the cosmetic or dermatological compositions to be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. This has proven to be particularly advantageous for increasing the antioxidant potential of radical scavengers c1) to c8) in combination with the active ingredients a) and b), in particular for increasing the antioxidant potential of carotenoids and polyphenols ( in combination with the active ingredients a) and b)).

The particularly suitable cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are therefore in the form of oil-in-water emulsions and contain, in addition to the active ingredients already described (a) to d)), preferably at least one active ingredient conditioning effect for the skin e).

The stabilizing agents f) and / or the emulsifiers g) constitute other preferred components of the preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention, which are in the form of oil-in-water emulsions.

The term "active ingredients with a conditioning effect on the skin e) which is suitable is preferably understood to mean substances which bind to keratin materials, in particular to the skin, and which improve the physical and sensory properties of the skin as well as those of the product as such. Conditioning agents smooth the upper layer of the skin and give it softness and suppleness. The choice of conditioning agent (fatty - less fatty, quickly or slowly extensible, penetrating quickly or slowly into the skin, etc.) determines the skin sensation imparted by the product as a whole.

The active ingredients with a conditioning effect on the skin e) which are preferred can be selected from fats, in particular vegetable oils, such as sunflower oil, safflower oil, olive oil, oil soybeans, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid parts of it coconut oil, lanolin and its derivatives, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffinic oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, di-n-alkyl ethers having in total 12 to 36 C atoms, e.g. di-n-octyl ether and n-hexyl-noctyl ether, fatty acids, in particular linear and / or branched C8-30 fatty acids, saturated and / or unsaturated, fatty alcohols, in particular saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols having 4-30 carbon atoms, which may be ethoxylated with 1-75, preferably 5-20 units of ethylene oxide and / or propoxylated with 3- 30, preferably 9-14 units of propylene oxide, esterified oils, i.e. esters of C6-30 fatty acids with straight chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having C2-30 fatty alcohols with straight chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid, esters of dicarboxylic acid such as di-n-butyl adipate as well as diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate or propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of the acid carbonic having fatty alcohols, e.g. glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC), fatty mono-, di- and triacid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear fatty acids and / or branched with glycerin, which can be ethoxylated with 1 -10, preferably 7-9 units of ethylene oxide, e.g. glycerol cocoate PEG-7, waxes, in particular insect waxes, vegetable waxes, fruit waxes, ozokerite, microcires, ceresin, paraffin waxes, triglycerides of C16 fatty acids -30 saturated and possibly hydroxylated, e.g. hardened triglyceride fats, phospholipids, e.g. soy lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, shea butter, silicone compounds, selected from decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and silicone polymers, which can possibly be cross-linked, e.g. polydialkylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, ethoxylated and / or propoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes bearing the former name INCI Dimethicone Copolyol, as well as polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups, preferably substances bearing the names INCI Dimethiconol.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain a mixture of active principles with conditioning effect for the skin e) from the above-mentioned list.

The amount used of the active ingredients with a conditioning effect for the skin e) in the compositions according to the invention is preferably from 1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 2 to 40% by weight, more preferably 3 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 4 to 25% by weight and in particular 5 to 20% by weight, in which the quantity indications relate to the weight of the cosmetic or dermatological compositions.

As substances with a surfactant effect and / or emulsifiers g) suitable for the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention, mention may, for example, be made of adducts of 4 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide on C8-C22 fatty alcohols, on C12-C22 fatty acids and on C8-C15 alkylphenols, the C12-C22 fatty acid mono- and diesters of adducts from 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide on C3-C6 polyols, in particular on glycerin, the adducts of ethylene oxide and polyglycerine on fatty acid esters of methylglucoside, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides, C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs, in which the degrees of oligomerization ranging from 1.1 to 5, in particular 1.2 to 2.0 are preferred, and the preferred sugar component is glucose, e.g. the product known under the name INCI Coco Glucoside, mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, e.g. the products marketed under the brands Montanov®68 and Montanov® 202, the products of addition of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide on castor oil and hardened castor oil, the partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms having saturated C8-C22 fatty acids, sterols (sterin), in particular cholesterol, lanosterol, beta-sitosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol and ergosterol as well as mycosterols , phospholipids, above all glucose phospholipids, fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols such as sorbitol, polyglycerins and polyglycerin derivatives, preferably polyglycerol 2-dipolyhydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls® PGPH) and polyglycerol 3-diisostearate (commercial product Lameform® TGI) as well as linear and branched C8-C30 fatty acids and their Na (sodium), K (potassium), ammonium, Ca (calcium), Mg (magnesium) e t of Zn (zinc).

The use of non-ethoxylated anionic water-in-oil emulsifiers is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred oil-in-water emulsifier system according to the invention comprises a mixture of dipotassium monocetylphosphate and potassium diketylphosphate with hardened palm oil glycerides. A corresponding mixture is sold under the name "Emulsiphos 677660" (name INCI: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides) by the company Symrise.

The particularly preferred compositions according to the invention contain, relative to their total weight, from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 2.0% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 1.5 % by weight of a non-ethoxylated anionic oil-in-water emulsifier, preferably of a mixture of dipotassium monocetylphosphate and potassium diketylphosphate with hardened palm oil glycerides.

The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention may contain the emulsifiers g) preferably in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5-15% by weight and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition.

Other suitable adjuvants of the preferred emulsions according to the invention constitute: stabilizers and / or thickeners f), for example. natural polysaccharides such as starch, xanthan, alginates, dextran, agar, etc., as well as anionic polymers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, l anhydrous maleic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, in which the acid groups may be wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or of triethanolammonium and in which at least one nonionic monomer is present Constitute preferred nonionic monomers: acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid ester, methacrylic acid ester, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ether and vinyl ester. Preferred anionic copolymers are: acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with monomers containing sulfonic acid groups. These copolymers can also be in crosslinked form. Constitute suitable commercial products: Sepigel®305, Simulgel® 600, Simulgel® NS and Simulgel® EPG from SEPPIC. Other particularly preferred anionic homopolymers and copolymers are non-crosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. For example, the commercial product Carbopol® is one of these compounds. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains, as monomer, at 80-98% an optionally substituted unsaturated C3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydrous, as well as at 2-20% an optionally substituted acrylic acid ester d saturated C10-30 carboxylic acids, wherein the copolymer can be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents. The corresponding commercial products are: Pemulen® and the types of Carbopol® 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex B.F. Goodrich).

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention contain at least one stabilizing agent f), preferably polysaccharides such as xanthan gum and / or homo- and / or copolymers of acid (meth ) acrylic, in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.025 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.075 to 2.5 % by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Other preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they also contain at least one active principle with a soothing effect on the skin.

The active ingredients with a soothing effect on the skin are selected from allantoin, Γα-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts of Centella asiatica, for example available under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, glycyrrhetinic acid, which is particularly preferably in a form encapsulated in liposomes and is for example marketed in this form under the brand Calmsphere by Soliance, mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and argan oil (Argania Spinosa ) bearing the name INCI “Spent grain wax and Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil” as marketed under the name Stimu-Tex AS by the company Pentapharm, Tahitian vanilla extracts (Vanilla Tahitensis), as marketed for example under the name Vanirea (INCI name: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) by the company Solabia, hydrolysates alginate, as marketed for example under the name Phycosaccharide, in particular Phycosaccharide Al, by the company Codif, water hyssop extracts (Bacopa Monniera), as marketed under the name Bacocalmine by the company Sederma , rooibos extracts, as marketed under the name Rooibos Herbasec MPE by Cosmetochem, yeast extracts, particularly preferably the commercial product Drieline (INCI name "Sorbitol, Yeast Extract") from Lanatech, physiologically compatible salts of sterol sulfates, such as e.g. marketed under the name Phytocohesine (INCI name: Sodium Beta-Sitosterylsulfate) by the company Vincience, amino dicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms as well as their physiologically compatible salts, preferably selected from aminomalonic acid, aminosuccinic acid (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipinic acid as well as their physiologically compatible salts such as potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate, as well as any mixtures of these substances .

The active ingredients with a soothing effect for the skin are preferably present in a total amount of 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and most preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight. weight, respectively related to the total composition.

The compositions according to the invention may contain other optional ingredients. Particularly preferred is a content of at least one moisturizing substance. These can help preserve or restore moisture in the skin and help prevent it from drying out. In addition to the polyols mentioned above, inter alia, urea and alkyl-substituted urea compounds or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea compounds (e.g. bisN, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) -urea) as well as - in a particularly preferred manner, the mixtures of these are suitable for this purpose.

The preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one urea substituting an alkyl or a urea substituting a hydroxyalkyl, in particular N, N'-bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount from 0.01 - 50% by weight, preferably 0.1 - 20% by weight, particularly preferably 1 - 10% by weight and most preferably 2 - 5% by weight, based on the set of the composition. N, N’bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, which is a crystalline solid at room temperature, is for example marketed under the brand name Hydrovance® by Akzo Nobel as an aqueous solution at approx. 45 - 55% with a content of urea and ammonium lactate.

The cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are preferably characterized by a high content of natural or biodegradable ingredients. Preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain 40 to 100% by weight, preferably 45 to 99% by weight, particularly preferably 59 to 97% by weight and in particular 60 to 95% by weight of active principles , which are of natural origin and / or biodegradable, in which the quantity indications relate to the weight of the cosmetic compositions without the aqueous and alcoholic solvents contained in these compositions.

Thanks to the application of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention, comprising the combination of theophylline, extract (s) of Quassia amara and specific radical scavengers c1) to c8), the internal defenses of the organism against the radicals free are found to be significantly increased and provide the skin with overall protection against cell damage and against premature aging.

Another object of the present invention is therefore the non-therapeutic, cosmetic use of a combination consisting of

a) theophylline,

b) at least one extract of Quassia amara, and

c) one or more radical fixer (s) from the group consisting of c1) dimethylmethoxy chromanol (lipochroman) c2) vitamin C c3) hydroxytyrosol c4) epigallocatechin gallate c5) arginine c6) bis-2- malonate ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl c7) polyphenols (resveratrol, silymarin, apigenin, etc.) c8) carotenoids (lycopenes, etc.) in cosmetic or dermatological compositions

- to stimulate the body's defenses against radicals and / or

- to provide enzymes for the detoxification of heavy metals (metallothionein) and / or

- to provide protection against cellular damage (by oxidation) and / or

- to provide protection against aging of the skin and / or

- to smooth the surface of the skin and / or to smooth wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or

- to compensate for irregularities in the skin and / or

- to obtain a more uniform skin tone.

As regards preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been explained on the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Examples:

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject of the present application, without however limiting it. All the quantity indications are expressed in% by weight in the following tables.

The examples show preferred combinations of active principles a), b) and c) for cosmetic or dermatological compositions, preferably for an oil-in-water emulsion.

1 2 3 4 5 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Dimethylmethoxy chromanol 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

5 6 7 8 9 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Vitamin C 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5

Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

11 12 13 14 15 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Hydroxytyrosol 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

16 17 18 19 20 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4 - 2.5 0.5-2 Epigallocatechin gallate 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

21 22 23 24 25 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Arginine 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

26 27 28 29 30 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Bis-2- malonate ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

31 32 33 34 35 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Polyphenols 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

36 37 38 39 40 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Resveratrol 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

41 42 43 44 45 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05

Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4 - 2.5 0.5-2 Silymarin 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

46 47 48 49 50 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Apigenin 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

51 52 53 54 55 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4 - 2.5 0.5-2 Carotenoids 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

55 56 57 58 59 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4-2.5 0.5-2 Lycopene 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5

Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

61 62 63 64 65 Theophylline 0.0001 - 0.1 0.0005 - 0.09 0,00075 -0.08 0.001 - 0.07 0.001 - 0.05 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 0.1 -5 0.2-4 0.3-3 0.4 - 2.5 0.5-2 Dimethylmethoxy chromanol and / or vitamin C and / or hydroxytyrosine and / or epigallocatechin gallate and / or arginine and / or malonate of bis-2- ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxy benzyl and / or resveratrol and / or silymarin and / or apigenin and / or lycopene 0.0001 - 1 0.00025 -0.8 0.0005 - 0.75 0,00075 -0.6 0.001 - 0.5 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

Particularly preferred oil-in-water emulsions:

66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 Emulsiphos® ¹ 677660 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.5 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 2-Ethylhexyl palmitate 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Caprylic / capric triglycerides 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 3.5 Safflower oil, refined 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Lanette® ² 22 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Polydimethylsiloxanes 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 Hexanediol-1,6 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Glycerin 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 4.5 Sorbitol 70% 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 Tego Carbomer® ³¹⁴⁰ 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sodium hydroxide 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 0.07 Bitter quassia wood extract (Quassia amara) 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0

Theophylline 0.01 0.02 0.01 0.02 0.01 0.02 0.01 0.01 Dimethylmethoxy chromanol 0.001 -0.5 Vitamin C 0.001 -0.5 Hydroxytyrosol 0.001 -0.5 Epigallocatechin gallate 0.001 -0.5 Arginine 0.001 -0.5 Bis-2- malonate ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl 0.001 -0.5 Resveratrol and / or silymarin and / or apigenin 0.001 -0.5 Lycopene 0.001 -0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.9 Water and if applicable, other active subtances ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

List of raw materials used:

Emulsiphos® ¹ 677660: INCI name: Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides; Symrise

Lanette® 22: INCI name: Behenyl Alcohol; BASF

Tego Carbomer® ³ 140: INCI name: Carbomer; Degussa

It follows from the in vitro results following the treatment of the skin with the oil-in-water emulsions of Examples 66 to 73 that the combination of the active principles

a) to c) has synergistic effects on the expression of the MT-1 gene (quassia wood .1.2 / theo: 1.5 / combi: 1.8).

MT-1 is an important receptor for the signal transmission of melatonin. Among other things, melatonin is involved in the sleep-wake cycle. In the skin, it is also an essential molecule of the body's antioxidant system.

Claims (9)

Claims 1. Cosmetic or dermatological composition for topical treatment of the skin, containing a) theophylline, b) at least one extract of Quassia amara, and c) one or more radical scavenger (s) from the group consisting of c1) dimethylmethoxy chromanol c2) vitamin C c3) hydroxytyrosol c4) epigallocatechin gallate c5) arginine c6) bis-2-ethylhexylhydroxydimethoxybenzyl malonate c7) polyphenols (resveratrol, silymarin, apigenin, etc.) c8) carotenoids (lycopenes, etc.). 2. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 1, containing theophylline in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.0001 to 0.1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.09% by weight, more preferably 0.00075 to 0.08% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.07 and in particular 0.001 to 0.05% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, containing an extract (s) of Quassia amara in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.3 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.4 to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 4. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, containing one or more radical fixer (s) from group (c1) to c8) in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.00025 to 0.8% by weight, even more preferably from 0.0005 to 0.75% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.00075 to 0, 6% by weight and in particular 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in which the quantity indications refer to the total quantity of the ingredients c1) to c8). 5. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, containing at least one polyol d) in a proportion by weight ranging from Q, 1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 25% by weight , more preferably 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 2 to 17.5% by weight and in particular 3 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. 6. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to claim 5, containing glycerin, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,6-hexanediol, sorbitol and / or mixtures of these polyols. 7. cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, containing at least one active principle with conditioning effect for the skin e) in a proportion by weight ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably 2 to 40 % by weight, more preferably 3 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 4 to 25% by weight and in particular 5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, containing at least one stabilizing agent f), preferably polysaccharides such as xanthan gum and / or homo- and / or copolymers of acid ( meth) acrylic, in a proportion by weight ranging from 0.01 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.025 to 4% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 3% by weight, particularly preferably 0.075 to 2, 5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Cosmetic or dermatological composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, containing water in a proportion by weight ranging from 50 to 85% by weight, preferably 60 to 80% by weight and in particular 65 to 75 % by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.