FR3049461A1 - USE OF A PLANT EXTRACT OF POUTERIA LUCUMA FRUIT IN A COSMETIC COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to the use in a cosmetic composition of at least one effective amount of an extract of the Pouteria lucuma fruit, consisting of the skin and / or the pulp, as an active ingredient intended to provide an energizing effect on the skin. skin, to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and to moisturize the skin. The invention also relates to the process for preparing an extract of Pouteria lucuma fruit, consisting of the skin and / or the pulp, and the extract obtained by said process. The invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an effective amount of an extract of Pouteria lucuma fruit, consisting of skin and / or fresh or dried pulp. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method.

Description

USE OF A PLANT EXTRACT OF POUTERIA LUCUMA FRUIT IN A COSMETIC COMPOSITION.

The present invention is in the cosmetic field. The invention relates to a plant extract as an active ingredient and its use in a cosmetic composition. The invention relates more specifically to the use of an extract of the fruit of Pouteria lucuma as a cosmetic active agent to provide an energizing effect on the skin, to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and to moisturize and improve the barrier function of the skin. peaur

In our societies, aesthetics and appearance are becoming more and more important. To improve their image, many people tend to want to look young for as long as possible and try to fade visible manifestations of aging skin. This is why the objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic product that overcomes the harmful effects of the sun and weather on human skin.

The inventors of the present patent application have surprisingly discovered that a particular plant extract makes it possible, integrated in a cosmetic composition, to provide an energizing effect on the skin, to fight effectively against cutaneous aging and to limit the appearance of resulting adverse effects and promote the barrier function of the skin to improve skin hydration.

Pouteria lucuma (Lucuma) is a tree of the family Sapotaceae, indigenous to Peru, which gives a fruit known as lucuma in the Andes. Lucuma (the fruit) is appreciated in desserts, especially in the form of ice cream, dairy products or cake. The lucuma includes a skin, a nucleus and pulp. This is the pulp which is commonly used in the form of dried powder or slices in the various food compositions.

It is known that lucuma is a good source of carbohydrates, vitamins (niacin, beta-carotene), mineral salts (iron) and dietary fiber.

Also known are patent applications US20110318403 and EP2352489, a process for preparing an extract of Pouteria lucuma, which process comprises extracting oil from the core. The Lucuma nucleus oil is described as effective in inducing cell migration, improving tissue regeneration and improving wound healing. This document discloses, therefore, that the Lucuma core oil is useful for the therapeutic or cosmetic maintenance of the skin and scalp.

Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that a skin extract and / or pulp of Lucuma fruit in a cosmetic composition can effectively provide an energizing effect on the skin, prevent and / or fight against skin aging and to moisturize the skin.

The skin is a vital organ composed of several layers (dermis, proliferative layers and stratum corneum) which covers the entire surface of the body and essentially provides a barrier function vis-à-vis the external environment. This barrier function is based in particular on the quality of the epidermis which depends in particular on the state of the stratum corneum and the balance between proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes.

Keratinocytes are cells constituting 90% of the superficial layer of the skin (epidermis) and integuments (nails, hair, hair). They synthesize keratin, a fibrous and insoluble protein in water, which gives the skin its impermeability and external protection properties. The epidermis is divided into four layers based on the morphology of the keratinocytes, which pass gradually from the basal layer to the upper layers by cell differentiation to the stratum corneum or they form a layer of dead cells called dander, by apoptosis. This layer is a protective barrier and reduces the loss of water in the body. Keratinocytes are in perpetual renewal. It takes about 1 month to go from the basal layer to the stratum corneum but this process can be accelerated in case of hyperproliferation of keratinocytes (psoriasis).

The modulation of keratinocyte differentiation is a biological process that can intervene in the treatment of the manifestations of skin aging, both in the barrier function of the skin and in the formation of wrinkles. As active agents that inhibit the differentiation of keratinocytes, mention may be made of retinoids (retinol, retinoic acid, among others) which are recognized as active cosmetic and dermatological active ingredients against numerous skin problems such as psoriasis, acne and wrinkles. ^ However, retinoids induce inflammation of the skin prompting research laboratories to investigate novel retinoid-like inhibitory agents for the differentiation of noninflammatory keratinocytes.

Fibroblasts are cells found in connective tissue, sometimes called support cells. It is in particular resident cells of the dermis that ensure consistency and flexibility. They secrete proteoglycans and glycoproteins. They secrete in particular collagen, elastin and fibrillins including fibrillin 1.

Fibrillin 1 is a glycoprotein that belongs to a family of proteins comprising three members, whose regulation remains poorly known today. It is secreted by both fibroblasts and keratinocytes. It is the major element of microfibrils in elastic and non-elastic extracellular matrices. Fibrillin 1 thus participates in the formation of fibers and their functional and structural properties play a key role in the elasticity of the connective tissue, especially at the level of the dermal-epidermal junction. Indeed, it allows an anchoring of the epidermal cells to the elastic fibers of the dermis.

At the level of the dermis, we observe with age a decrease in fibroblast activity with a decrease in their proliferation, biosynthesis and exchanges with the extracellular matrix, as well as an alteration of both qualitative and quantitative support fibers.

At the level of the dermal-epidermal junction, a flattening appears which causes a decrease of the cohesion between these two zones (dermis and epidermis), with rarefaction of the elements of the dermis and as well as fibers of anchorage, which results in a decrease metabolic exchanges and the formation of wrinkles.

Fibrillin 1 is mentioned, sometimes with elastin, as a protein involved in the processes of firmness and elasticity, acting in the anti-aging mechanism. It is used in particular as a biomarker for the acceleration of aging by ultraviolet rays and / or for the treatment of certain cicatricial processes as well as for stretch marks. The synthesis of fibrillin 1 would thus make it possible to treat aged skin inherently, genetically programmed or chronological, or extrinsically, particularly due to oxidative stress such as UV, tobacco or pollution and to treat scars of the skin.

Thus, fibroblasts and keratinocytes play a primordial role in the biological process of the skin, in particular by the secretion of fibrillin 1, to regulate firmness, elasticity, cell cohesion and in the process of healing and aging of the skin. skin.

During skin aging, the skin becomes dry. Thus, it is very often found in the elderly, and in particular over 50 years, the manifestation of xerosis or dryness of the mucous membranes, related to a lower secretion of sebum, hormonal changes or slowdowns water flow through the epidermis. The skin is then the seat of itching and tugging, two characteristic symptoms of dry skin. Acquired pathologies resulting in dry skin include xerosis induced by photochemotherapy and eczema. Among the pathologies acquired causing a dry mouth, or xerostomia, mention may be made of Sjogren's syndrome or radiotherapy of the neck. Finally, among the pathologies involving dryness of the mucous membranes, mention may be made of ocular or vaginal dryness.

To alleviate these problems of dryness and aging of the skin, it is commonly used topically products intended to restore the skin barrier. Mention may be made of humectants, film-forming agents, retinoid-type molecules and agents capable of reconstructing the cutaneous barrier, such as squalene, for example.

In the present invention, a natural extract of skin and / or pulp of Lucuma fruit is advantageously used in a cosmetic composition and effectively provides an energizing effect on the skin. It is thus demonstrated in the present invention that a Lucuma extract according to the invention stimulates the activity of the respiratory chain of the mitochondria and increases the production of ATP (adenosine triphosphate) without producing free radicals of the ROS type. (Reactive Oxygen Species) known to cause significant cell damage.

The mitochondrion is vital to the cell because it acts as a battery and provides energy for cell function in the form of ATP. The Lucuma extract according to the invention revitalizes the mitochondria and brings renewed energy to the cells by stimulating the rate of oxygen consumption and the level of cellular ATP.

It is furthermore demonstrated in the present invention that the Lucuma extract according to the invention makes it possible to; - limit aging by increasing the expression of the main proteins involved in the aging phenotype such as collagen-1 and telastine, - limit skin aging by helping to reduce the premature aging of UV-induced skin (ultra- violet) by acting on Fibrillin-1, - limit the epitope aging by reducing the methylation rate of the DNA.

In the present invention, the term "effective amount" means the necessary amount of an extract of the skin and / or pulp of the fruit of Pouteria lucuma to achieve the desired result. "Lucuma plant extract" or "Lucuma fruit extract" means the extract of the skin and / or Lucuma pulp according to the invention. This is the global extract comprising the solvent. "The dry extract" or "dry matter" represents a part of the plant extract. The dried extract is the plant extract having undergone a drying step. "Topical application", the act of applying or spreading the active principle according to the invention, or a composition containing it, on the surface of the skin, a mucous membrane or superficial body growths. "Cosmetically acceptable", that the plant extract according to the invention, or a composition containing it, is suitable for coming into contact with the skin or mucosa without causing toxicity or intolerance reactions. "Physiologically acceptable medium" means an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, a powder . This physiologically acceptable medium forms what is conventionally called the excipient of the composition. "Skin aging" means any changes in the external appearance of the skin and skin appendages due to aging such as, for example, wrinkles and fine lines, wilted skin, soft skin, thinned skin, lack of elasticity and / or skin tone, dull and dull skin or skin pigmentation spots, discolouration of hair or spots on the nails, but also any internal changes in the skin that do not systematically result in a modified external appearance, such as, for example, any internal degradation of the skin resulting from exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation that is called photo-aging, any degradation of the DNA by methylation of the latter, which is called épivieillissement. A "human energizing effect on the skin", an effect or activity that increases cellular energy metabolism by stimulating the respiratory chain of cell mitochondria and increasing the production of ATP.

The demonstration of the activities of the extract of Lucuma according to the invention is given: - for the activity prevention and / or fight against aging, or rejuvenating activity, in Example 5 with the targets collagen I, elastin and fibrillin 1 The tables present the results obtained on these different targets. The methylation of the DNA was also tested in Example 5 and the results are given in the table. for the energizing effect, in example 6. The dioxygen consumption (02), the level of cellular ATP and the prooxidant potential of the Lucuma extract in living cells are quantified. The results are given in FIGS. 1A, 1B, 1C and 1D. for the cutaneous hydration activity, in Example 7.

Examples 1 to 4 show different preparations of a Lucuma extract according to the invention.

Examples 8 to 20 are different cosmetic forms of the compositions according to the invention.

Thus, a first object according to the invention relates to the use, in a cosmetic composition, of at least one effective amount of an extract of the fruit of Pouteria lucuma, consisting of the skin and / or the pulp, as active principle intended to provide an energizing effect on the skin, to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and to moisturize the skin.

In the present invention, the skin and pulp of the Lucuma fruit can be used alone or as a mixture and can be of fresh or dried constitution for the implementation of the method of preparation of the extract.

In a preferred embodiment, the fruit extract of Pouteria lucuma is an extract obtained from the dried fruit pulp.

In another preferred embodiment according to the invention, the effective amount is a vegetable extract content ranging from 10% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 3% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 3% by weight. 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The effective amount of plant extract corresponds to the quantity necessary to obtain the desired result, namely, to provide an energizing effect on the skin, to improve the hydration of the epidermis and to prevent and / or fight against the manifestations of cutaneous aging. .

A second object according to the invention is the process for preparing a plant extract consisting of the skin and / or the fruit pulp of Pouteria lucuma comprising the following successive stages: (a) dispersion and extraction in an aqueous solvent and / or alcoholic and / or glycerol and / or glycolic skin and / or fruit pulp Pouteria lucuma, (b) decantation and / or centrifugation and / or clarifying filtration of the extract obtained following step (a); (c) microfiltering the extract obtained in step (b); (d) recovery of Lucuma fruit extract; (e) where appropriate, ultrafiltration and / or nanofiltration of the extract obtained in step (c); and then (f) optionally drying the extract obtained in step (e) with or without a drying medium.

The skin and pulp of Lucuma fruit can be used alone or mixed.

The process for preparing the extract is carried out on the skin and / or the fresh or dried pulp of the Lucuma fruit.

In a preferred embodiment, during step (a), the skin powder and / or pulp of the fruit of Pouteria lucuma and more particularly the pulp are used, in the following proportions: between 0.1 and 20% by weight of powder solids, and preferably between 1 and 15%, typically between 5 and 10%, the percentages being expressed by weight of dry matter relative to the total weight used (pulp powder + solvent). The extraction of step (a) is preferably carried out with agitation, conventionally or with ultrasound.

In step (a), use is advantageously made of the solvents alone or as a mixture, such as water, ethanol, glycerol or propanediol, in a proportion advantageously between 10% and 90% of these solvents. water and more preferably between 50 and 80% in water (the% are expressed by weight of the solvent relative to the total weight solvent + water).

Even more advantageously, the dried fruit pulp powder will be used. The ripe fruits are disinfected, peeled and degraded before being dehydrated with hot air and crushed or cryocreduced using a grinder such as a knife or hammer mill. The Lucuma extract is obtained by solid-liquid extraction of the skin and / or the dried and ground fruit pulp of Pouteria lucuma in a solvent selected from the group consisting of water, alcohols such as ethanol, glycerol, glycols such as propanediol, and mixtures thereof such as binary mixtures, in proportions of between 0% and 100% water relative to other solvents.

In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, the Lucuma extract is obtained by solid-liquid extraction of the dried and ground fruit pulp of Pouteria lucuma in a solvent selected from the group consisting of water, alcohols such as ethanol, glycerol, glycols such as propanediol, and mixtures thereof such as binary mixtures, more preferably in proportions of between 0% and 90% water relative to other solvents.

Particularly advantageously, binary mixtures of water-type solvent and a solvent chosen from ethanol, glycerol or propanediol are used.

In a very preferred embodiment, the extraction solvent is a hydro-alcoholic solvent, such as a water-ethanol and / or hydro-glycerol and / or hydro-glycolic mixture, such as a propanediol-water mixture. , advantageously in a proportion of between 30 and 90% alcohol, and / or glycerol, and / or glycol in water.

More particularly, in the context of the solid-liquid extraction of the dried fruit pulp of Pouteria lucuma, between 0.1 and 20% by weight (dry matter) of desired plant part is introduced into the extraction solvent, and preferably between 1 and 15% by weight, typically between 5 and 10% by weight (the% being expressed by weight of the dry matter relative to the total weight used). In particular, in the presence of ethanol, a proportion of between 0 and 100% of ethanol in water is chosen, preferably between 10 and 90% of ethanol, and advantageously between 60 and 80% (the% is expressed as weight of ethanol relative to the total weight of water + ethanol).

In particular, in the presence of glycerol, a proportion of between 0 and 100% of glycerol in water is chosen, preferably between 30 and 90% of glycerol, and advantageously between 50 and 80% (the% is expressed by weight of glycerol). relative to the total weight of water + glycerol).

In particular, in the presence of glycol and more particularly of propanediol, a proportion of between 0 and 100% of propanediol in water is chosen, preferably between 10 and 90% of propanediol, and advantageously between 50 and 70% (the% is expressed by weight of propanediol relative to the total weight of water + propanediol).

The extraction temperature is advantageously between 4 ° C. and 100 ° C., and preferably between 10 ° C. and 80 ° C., and more particularly between 20 ° C. and 50 ° C. The heating can be provided by circulating a thermal fluid in a double jacket or microwave.

The extraction time advantageously varies from 10 minutes to 4 hours, and preferably from 30 minutes to 3 hours, and more preferably from 1 to 2 hours. The extraction can advantageously be carried out under vacuum, at atmospheric pressure or under pressure, preferably at atmospheric pressure or under pressure, and advantageously at atmospheric pressure. The extraction is always carried out with stirring thus allowing dispersion and homogenization of the solid in the liquid, effectively improving the diffusion of the solute in the solvent. At the end of the extraction, the residual plant material that is depleted of compounds of interest is advantageously separated from the liquid phase, for example by decantation, by centrifugation or by clarifying filtration. The liquid phase obtained can be microfiltered using filter media of suitable porosity in order to obtain a limpid and bloodless solution of plant solid particles.

These first liquid-solid separation steps can be followed by purification steps, for example by filtration, ultrafiltration and / or nanofiltration, to concentrate the compounds of interest at the expense of others such as trace amounts of proteins, minerals, as well as the solvent or solvent mixture. The extract obtained may be in liquid form but also in solid form after a drying step according to the methods known to those skilled in the art such as atomization, lyophilization or zeodration, for example, with or without a drying medium. such as maltodextrin.

A third object according to the invention is the extract of the fruit of Pouteria lucuma, consisting of the skin and / or the fresh or dried pulp, obtained or obtainable by the preparation process according to the second object of the invention. invention. The extract of Lucuma, in liquid or dry form, according to the invention mainly comprises for 100 grams of dry extract the following ingredients:

Glucose: 5-40 g Fructose: 5-40 g Sucrose: 0.5-20 g Maltose: Traces Protein: 1 g Polyphenols: 1 g

A fourth object according to the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium an effective amount of the fruit extract of Pouteria lucuma, consisting of the skin and / or the fresh or dried pulp, according to the invention.

In a preferred embodiment according to the invention, the effective amount in the cosmetic composition is a vegetable extract content ranging from 10% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 3% by weight, and more preferably still 10 '* to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition must therefore contain a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and superficial body growths, and cover all cosmetic forms. These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, oil-in-water emulsions, or water-in-oil or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or powders, and adapted to an application on the skin, lips and / or integuments. These compositions comprise the excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives, perfumes. They can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product for the skin.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention also comprise any additive commonly used in the intended field of application and the adjuvants necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, antioxidants, colorants, sunscreens, self-tanning agents, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, cosmetic or pharmaceutical active ingredients, essential oils, vitamins, essential fatty acids, surfactants, polymers film-forming, etc. The INCI Dictionary & Handbook ("International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients ISe Ed. 2010) published by the Personal Care Products Council, Inc., Washington, DC) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic ingredients commonly used in the care industry. of the skin, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions according to the present invention.

Non-limiting examples of these additional ingredient classes include: healing agents, anti-aging agents, anti-wrinkle agents, anti-atrophy agents, moisturizing agents, softening agents, antibacterial agents, anti-parasitic agents , antifungal agents, fungicidal agents, fungistatic agents, bactericidal agents, bacteriostatic agents, antimicrobial agents, anti-inflammatory agents, anti-pruriginous agents, anesthetic agents, antiviral agents, keratolytic agents, anti-free radical agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, anti-dandruff agents, agents for differentiating differentiation, proliferation or skin pigmentation, penetration enhancers, desquamating agents, agents stimulating or inhibiting melanin synthesis , whiteners, depigmenting agents, or brighteners, propigmenting agents, auto agents tanning agents, NO-synthase inhibiting agents, antioxidants, free radical scavengers and / or anti-air pollution agents, anti-glycation agents, firming agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or agents capable of preventing or inhibiting their degradation, agents stimulating collagen synthesis, elastin synthesis stimulating agents, decorin stimulating agents, laminin synthesis stimulating agents, agents stimulating the synthesis of defensin, agents stimulating chaperone synthesis, agents stimulating the synthesis of aquaporin, agents stimulating the synthesis of hyaluronic acid, agents stimulating the synthesis of lipids and components of the stratum corneum (ceramides, fatty acids,. ..), agents that inhibit collagen degradation, agents that inhibit elastin degradation, agents that stimulate proliferation fibroblasts, keratinocyte proliferation stimulating agents, adipocyte proliferation stimulating agents, melanocyte proliferating stimulating agents, keratinocyte differentiating stimulating agents, adipocyte differentiating stimulating agents, acetylcholinesterase inhibiting agents , glycosaminoglycan synthesis stimulating agents, DNA repair agents, DNA protectants, anti-itch agents, agents for the treatment and / or care of sensitive skin, firming agents, agents anti-stretch marks, astringent agents, sebum-regulating agents, dermo-relaxants, healing adjuvants, re-epithelializing agents, adjuvant re-epithelialization agents, cytokine growth factors, soothing agents , anti-inflammatory agents, agents acting on the circulation and / or microcir capillary stimulating agents, vascular permeability inhibiting agents, agents acting on cellular metabolism, agents for improving the dermal-epidermal junction, agents inducing hair growth and / or hair, agents which inhibit or slow the growth of hair and / or hair, muscle relaxants, anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents, lipolysis stimulating agents, slimming agents, anti-cellulite agents, agents acting on the microcirculation, agents acting on cell metabolism, cleaning agents, hair styling agents, stimulants of hair growth, sunscreens, total screens, makeup agents, detergents, pharmaceutical products, emulsifying agents, emollients, organic solvents, antiseptic agents, deodorant active agents, physiologically acceptable media, surfactants, abrasives, absorbents, aesthetic components such as perfumes, pigments, dyes, natural dyes and dyes, essential oils, touching agents, cosmetic astringents, anti-acne agents, anti-acne agents -coagulation, anti-foam agents, antioxidants, leachates, biological additives, enzymes, enzyme inhibitors, enzyme inducers, coenzymes, chelating agents, plant extracts and plant derivatives, essential oils, marine extracts, agents derived from a biofermentation and / or biotechnology process, mineral salts, cell extracts, sunscreens (organic or inorganic photoprotective agents which are active against ultraviolet A and / or B rays) ceramides, peptides, buffers, volume agents, chelating agents, chemical additives, dyes, cosmetic biocides, dna sedatives, medicinal astringents, external analgesics, film-forming agents, such as polymers, to exacerbate film-forming properties and substantivity of the composition, quaternary derivatives, substantivity-enhancing agents, opacifying agents, pH adjusters and regulators (ex. triethanolamine), propellants, reducing agents, sequestering agents, bleaching and / or skin lightening agents, skin conditioning agents (ie, humectants, including miscellaneaous and occlusive agents), moisture retentive substances, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, moisturizers, epidermal hydrolytic enzymes, soothing and / or healing agents, skin-treating agents, anti-wrinkle agents, agents capable of reducing or treating bags under the eyes, exfoliating agents, thickeners, softeners, gelling polymers, vitamins and their derivatives, wetting agents, peeling agents, calming agents, curative agents for the skin, lignans, preservatives (iephenoxyethanol and parabens), anti-UV, cytotoxic agents, anti-neoplastic agents, viscosity modifiers, non-volatile solvents, pearling agents, antiperspirants, depilators vaccines, scented water, skin restructuring agent, excipients, fillers, minerals, anti-mycobacterial agents, anti-allergenic agents, antihistamines H1 or H2, anti-irritants, immune stimulating agents , immune system inhibitors, insect repellents, lubricants, pigmentants or dyes, hypopigmenting agents, photostabilizers, and mixtures thereof, as long as they are physically and chemically compatible with the other ingredients of the composition and especially with the assets of the present invention.

Moreover, the nature of these additional ingredients should not unacceptably alter the benefits of the assets of the invention. These additional ingredients may be synthetic or natural such as plant extracts or come from a biofermentation process. Additional examples can be found in the ESiCI Dictionary & Handbook

Such additional ingredients may be selected from the group consisting of: amino sugars, glucosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetylgalactosamine, vitamin B3 and its derivatives, niacinamide, dehydro-sodium acetate, dehydroacetic acid and its salts, phytosterols, salicylic acid compounds, hexamidines, dialkanoyl dihydroxyproline compounds, extracts and soy derivatives, equol, isoflavones, flavonoids, phytantriol, famesol, geraniol, bisabolol, peptides and their derivatives, di -, tri -, tetra -, penta -, and hexapeptides and their derivatives, lys-thr-thr-lys-ser, palmitoyl-lys-thr-thr-lys -ser, camosin, amino acid compounds N-acyl, retinoids, retinyl propionate, retinol, retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinal, retinoic acid, water-soluble vitamins, ascorbates, vitamin C, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, vitamins and their salts and derivatives, provitamins and their salts and derivatives, ethyl panthenol, vitamin B and its derivatives, vitamin B1, vitamin B2, vitamin B6, vitamin B12, vitamin K and its derivatives, pantothenic acid and its derivatives, pantothenyl ethyl ether, panthenol and its derivatives, ethyl panthenol, dexpanthenol, biotin, amino acids and their salts and derivatives, water-soluble amino acids, asparagine, alanine, indol, glutamic acid, water insoluble vitamins, vitamin A, vitamin E, vitamin F, vitamin D and its compounds, mono-, di-, and triterpenoids, beta-ionol, cedrol, and their derivatives, water-insoluble amino acids, tyrosine, tryptamine, particulate materials, butylated hydroxytoluene , butylated hydroxyanisole, allantoin, tocopherol nicotinate, tocopherol, tocopherol esters, palmitoyl-gly-his-lys, phytosterol, hydroxy acids, glycolic acid, lactic acid, lactobionic acid ics, ketoacids, pyruvic acid, phytic acid. lysophosphatidic acid, stilbenes, cinnamates, resveratrol, kinetin, zeatin, dimethylaminoethanol, natural peptides, soy peptides, acid sugar salts, manganese gluconate, zinc gluconate, piroctone olamine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, triclocarban , zinc pyrithione, hydroquinone, kojic acid, ascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, pyridoxine, aloe vera, terpene alcohols, allantoin, bisabolol, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, glycerol acid, sorbitol, pentaerythritol, pyrrolidone and its salts, dihydroxyacetone, erythrulose, glyceraldehyde, tartaraldehyde, clove essence, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus essence, eugenol, menthyl lactate, witch hazel distillate, copolymer of eicosene and vinyl pyrrolidone, iodopropyl butylcarbamate, polysaccharide, essential fatty acid, salicylate, glycyrrhetinic acid, carotenoids, ceramides and pseudo-ceramid es, a complex lipid, oils generally of natural origin such as shea butter, apricot oil, evening primrose oil, prune oil, palm oil, coconut oil monoi, kahai oil, hydroquinone, HEPES, procysteine, O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose, disodium salt of methyl glycine diacetic acid, steroids such as diosgenin and derivatives thereof. DHEA, DHEA dehydroepiandrosterone and / or a chemical or biological precursor or derivative, N-ethylcarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol, bilberry extracts, phytohormones, yeast extracts Saccharomyces cerevisiae, extracts of algae, extracts soybean, lupine, corn and / or peas, alverine and its salts, in particular alverine citrate, extracts of holly and chestnut and their combinations, a metalloproteinase inhibitor, Schinus soft extracts.

In all cases, those skilled in the art will ensure that these adjuvants and their proportions are chosen in such a way as not to harm the desirable advantageous properties of the cosmetic composition according to the invention.

A last object according to the invention is a cosmetic treatment method intended to provide an energizing effect, to prevent and / or fight against the dryness of the skin and mucous membranes, to prevent and / or to fight against the cutaneous signs of aging and or photoaging, by topical application to the skin and the mucous membranes to be treated with a cosmetic composition as described above. Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes. In the examples which follow and the associated figures, the abbreviation "Elu" means "Lucuma extract".

Example 1; Preparation of an aqueous vetasal extract from fruit pulp powder Pouteria lucuma

The fruit pulp powder of Pouteria lucuma (200 g) is placed in a glass reactor equipped with stirring and heating by jacket in the presence of a coolant.

The solvent used for the maceration is deionized water (1800 g).

The Lucuma pulp powder is dispersed in the solvent for 2 hours at 30 ° C, then the mixture is centrifuged and the supernatant is filtered. The aqueous extract thus obtained can be used as such or evaporated in a rotary evaporator in order to remove most of the solvent, and then lyophilized in the presence of maltodextrin (50%) in order to obtain a solid which will then be crushed and sieved.

150 g of powdered lucumin pulp extract is thus obtained. The respective mass contents of each sugar are 8.3 g / 100 g of fructose, 11.0 g / 100 g of glucose and 3.5 g / 100 g of sucrose.

EXAMPLE 2 Preparation of a Hydro-alcoholic Vé2étal Extract from Fruit Powder Powder Pouteria lucuma

The fruit pulp powder of Pouteria lucuma (200 g) is placed in a glass reactor equipped with stirring and heating by jacket in the presence of a coolant.

The solvent used for the maceration is a mixture water (30%) / ethanol (70%) (1800 g).

The Lucuma pulp powder is dispersed in the solvent for 2 hours at 55 ° C and then the mixture is filtered on Buchner to remove the pellet. The filtrate is recovered. The hydroalcoholic extract thus obtained is evaporated in a rotary evaporator to remove the solvent.

48 g of powdered lucumin pulp extract is thus obtained.

The respective mass contents of each sugar are 31.0 g / 100 g of fructose, 23.2 g / 100 g of glucose and 26.5 g / 100 g of sucrose.

Example 3 Preparation of an Alcoholic Vegetable Extract from Fruit Skin Powder Pouteria lucuma

The fruit skin powder of Pouteria lucuma (100 g) is introduced into a cellulose cartridge. The cartridge is placed in a Soxhlet extractor.

The solvent used for the extraction is 96% ethanol, placed in a glass flask (900 ml). The cartridge undergoes twenty cycles of solvent extraction. The alcoholic extract thus obtained is evaporated in a rotavapor to remove the solvent.

There is thus obtained 20 g of skin extract of lucuma powder fruit containing 69% of total sugars.

The respective mass contents of each sugar are 23.5 g / 100 g of fructose, 21.6 g / 100 g of glucose and 1.3 g / 100 g of sucrose.

EXAMPLE 4 Preparation of a Hydroglycolic Vé2étal Extract from Fruit Powder Powder Pouteria lucuma

The fruit pulp powder of Pouteria lucuma (200 g) is placed in a glass reactor equipped with stirring and heating by jacket in the presence of a coolant.

The solvent used (1800 g) for maceration is a mixture of 60% 1,3-propanediol and 40% demineralized water.

The Lucuma pulp powder is dispersed in the solvent for 2 hours at 30 ° C and the mixture is separated on a centrifugal decanter to remove the pellet and the supernatant is recovered and filtered. The extract in a solvent medium thus obtained, ie 1540 g, contains 3.73% of dry extract. The respective mass contents in each sugar are 1.1 g of fructose, 1.1 g of glucose and 0.5 g of sucrose per 100 grams of liquid plant extract.

Example 5: Tests demonstrating anti-A2 and rejuvenating activity of Lucuma extract

The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support, it is also its nourishing element. It consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix mainly composed of collagens, elastin and a substance called the fundamental substance. These components are synthesized by fibroblasts. The cohesion between the epidermis and the dermis is ensured by the dermal-epidermal junction.

Collagens are the major proteins of the extracellular matrices of the skin. To date, 20 types of collagens are identified and noted from I to XX. The collagens mainly present in the entire dermis are the type I and III collagens which form the extracellular matrix of the whole dermis (these are the collagens which constitute 70-80% of the dry weight of the dermis). With aging, the dermis gets older and wrinkles appear on the surface of the skin. Consequently, in view of the important role of collagen in terms of the integrity of the skin and its resistance to mechanical external aggression, the stimulation of the synthesis of these collagens, and in particular of type I collagen, appears as a effective way to overcome the signs of skin aging (reviewed by Tzaphlidou M., Micron 35 (2004) 173-177). The following study investigated the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of collagen I, Elastin and Fibrillin 1, essential components of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, in order to evaluate its anti-aging and anti-photo-aging as well as rejuvenating. This latter activity was also evaluated by studying the effect of Lucuma extract on the methylation of DNA, the target of epigenetics.

During aging, the collagen fibers and the elastic fibers are altered due to reduced synthesis and increased degradation, resulting in reduced skin quality, less tonic and loss of elasticity.

To demonstrate cell rejuvenation, we quantified the expression of proteins involved in the structure of these fibers in intrinsically aged cells (replicative senescence) in the case of collagen I and elastin, or extrinsic by irradiation. UV repeated (photo aging) in the case of Fibrillin 1.

In order to understand the mechanism of reactivation of the expression of the proteins observed, we proceeded to an analysis of the methylation of the DNA on cells aged intrinsically. Indeed one of the signatures of the cellular senescence is the accumulation of methylated zones within the DNA, at the level of the Cytosines contained in the dinucleotides CpG. This leads to the inactivation of promoters and the decrease in the expression of certain genes. • Prior evaluation of cytotoxicity

The cytotoxicity of the molecules was evaluated on NHDF (Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts). The Lucuma extract used in this test is that obtained from Example 1 described above.

The cytotoxicity was performed on the maximum concentration tested soluble in 0.1% DMSO aqueous solution and 7 dilutions of% log in% log.

The compound was contacted with the cells for 24 hours. During the last 3 hours, a ready-to-use colorimetric test (Roche's WSTl) has been introduced into the medium.

This reagent contains tetrazolium salts, a purple indicator. This reagent is cleaved into formazan, a yellow indicator, by metabolically active cells. The level of yellow coloration is therefore proportional to the number of living cells. The absorbance measurement is 450nm. The test considers that a value of less than 90% of the control indicates a cytotoxicity of the possible product. It may also indicate that the metabolic activity of the cells is decreased. A value below 75% indicates significant cytotoxicity.

In addition, the cells were observed under a microscope to observe and compare their physiognomy. Lucuma extract exhibits cytotoxicity at 10000 ppm (75% live cells) and becomes non-cytotoxic from 2000 ppm (100% live cells)

Concentrations selected for testing: Lucuma extract is tested at the following concentrations 500 - 250 - 125 ppm, corresponding to 0.05, 0.025 and 0.0125% respectively.

- Collagen I Targets

Collagen I is the majority collagen that gives the skin its mechanical resistance.

This protein represents 90% of the collagen of a vertebrate. H is the frame of the bone (compared to reinforcements of reinforced concrete), and more generally common connective tissue. It is found in bones, skin, tendons, cornea and internal organs. • Method for evaluating the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of

Collagen I

Normal or young Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDFs) aged or aged by replicative senescence were seeded in 96-well plates and incubated 24h at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2.

The cells were treated 24h in the presence of the test products.

The cells were then fixed with formalin and the expression of the proteins was detected by immunofluorescence.

Fluorescent markings were imaged and quantified by automated microscopy (Arrayscan CellomicsTM). Fluorescence was quantified by the Bioapplication Compartmental Analysis.

• Evaluation of the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of Collagen I

The results are given in the table below

Lucuma extract reactivates the expression of Collagen I compared to aged cells. • Conclusion Lucuma extract is an ingredient that acts on collagen I, the target of skin aging, by reviving protein expression compared to untreated aged cells and partially restoring it compared to young controls. - Target Elastin Elastin is a structural glycoprotein (such as laminin and fibronectin) used in the composition of the ECM. Elastin is a protein of the structural fibrous protein family. Secreted by fibroblasts mainly during the growth period, it has elastic properties. Its synthesis decreases with age and elastin is replaced by inextensible collagen. Stretch marks are a visible example of this process, which is related to mechanical stresses. Skin aging is a second example. In the extracellular matrix, elastin is synthesized and secreted in the extracellular space by fibroblasts first in proelastin, then in tropoelastin. Elastin is the major component (up to 90%) of elastic fibers to which fibrillin is added. Thus, collagen, associated with elastin and fibrillin that form elastic fibers, by covalent cross-links, are the main constituents of the extracellular matrix. The total production of elastin stops around puberty. After that, the amount of elastin available will decrease over time.

The degradation of elastin is related to the action of elastase, an enzyme secreted by fibroblasts. The enzymatic action of elastase is inhibited by al-antitrypsin. Inhibition of degradation creates a balance that increases the stability of elastin.

Distinctive features characterize elastin: Elastin allows cells to bind and allows biological tissue to form. Thus, the proper functioning of the skin, lungs, blood vessels, connective tissues, certain tendons and cartilages is closely related to the characteristics of elastin. As its name suggests, elastin is elastic. At equal diameter, it is 5 times more elastic than a rubber band. It can stretch up to 150% of its length at rest before breaking. Thus, it allows the tissues to stretch and regain their initial state after stretching, which gives them flexibility. Elastin is found in the dermis of the skin, which acts as a support. During aging, for example, the loss of elasticity and tonicity of the dermis that can no longer oppose the contraction effects of the underlying muscles gives rise to the appearance of wrinkles. In addition, exposure to ultraviolet rays increases the degradation of elastin. • Method for evaluating the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of Elastin

Normal or young Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDFs) aged or aged by replicative senescence were seeded in 96-well plates and incubated 24h at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2.

The cells were treated 24h in the presence of the test products.

The cells were then fixed with formalin and the expression of the proteins was detected by immunofluorescence.

Fluorescent markings were imaged and quantified by automated microscopy (Arrayscan CellomicsTM). Fluorescence was quantified by the Bioapplication Compartmental Analysis. • Evaluation of the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of Elastin The results are given in the table below:

Lucuma extract can reactivate the expression of Elastin compared to aged cells. • Conclusion Lucuma extract is an ingredient that acts on Elastin, the target of skin aging, by reviving protein expression compared to untreated aged cells and partially restoring it compared to young controls. - Target Fibrillin 1

Fibrillin 1 is a protein that constitutes microfibrils, which are associated with elastic fibers and participate in their assembly. • Method for evaluating the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of Fibrillin 1

The NHDFs (Normal Human Dermal Fibroblasts) young or aged extrinsically by irradiation were inoculated in 96-well plate and incubated 24h at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2.

The cells intended for extrinsic aging were irradiated 3 times with UVA with 24 hours between each irradiation or 2 times with UVB with 48 hours between each irradiation.

The cells were treated 24h in the presence of the test products.

The cells were then fixed with formalin and the expression of the proteins was detected by immunofluorescence.

Fluorescent markings were imaged and quantified by automated microscopy (Arrayscan CellomicsTM). Fluorescence was quantified by the Bioapplication Compartmental Analysis. ♦ Evaluation of the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of fibrillin 1

The results are given in the table below:

Lucuma extract reactivates the expression of Fibrillin 1 compared to aged cells. • Conclusion Lucuma extract is an ingredient that acts on Fibrillin 1, the target of skin aging, by reviving protein expression compared to untreated aged cells and partially restoring it compared to young controls.

- Target DNA methylation

Methylation is a modification of the N-termini of histones. It can be carried out either on lysines or on arginines and can be concretized by the addition of one, two or three methyl groups. Depending on the methylated residues and the number of added groups, it is associated with activation or repression of the transcription. Long regarded as static, histone methylation appears to be a reversible modification involved in a dynamic process, although more stable than acetylation and phosphorylation. An increasing number of histone demethylases are identified. In general, this type of modification is antagonistic to acetylation, and the deacetylation of lysines must precede their methylation. This antagonism results in the establishment of a certain dynamic equilibrium between the heterochromatin (generally non-expressible and methylated on certain key amino acids) and euchromatin (usually expressible and acetylated) territories. For example, Lysine 9 of histone H3 is known to be associated with repression of surrounding chromatin when methylated. This methylation is recognized by a protein, HP1, which binds to methylated H3. In turn, HP1 attracts the Suv39 protein, a Histone Methyl Transferase, which can methylate the histone H3 lysine 9 of the neighboring nucleosome, and so on. So we see how, step by step, the histones H3 will be methylated and the chromatin will be condensed. However, this heterochromatin invasion will be stopped if the H3 lysine 9 encountered is already acetylated. Thus a competitive equilibrium is established between chromatin domains expressed and repressed. Changes in histone tails act as epigenetic "brands" that result in the recruitment of different classes of proteins, since acetylated or methylated lysines are recognized by different protein domains. In addition, the recruitment of certain factors at the chromatin level requires the prior existence of modifications of histones and already bound proteins. The histone code is therefore interpreted in the context of other factors associated with chromatin and it is the combination of interaction between the modified histones and other factors that determines whether a protein is recruited to chromatin. All tissues of organisms are affected by aging. This process is related to epigenetic changes such as methylation changes at cytosine residues specific to DNA, as described in many publications. The role of epigenetic modifications in aging, the accumulation of Decreased cell divisions and macromolecules contribute to an older phenotype. Environmental and random events can further modify this phenotype through epigenetic mechanisms such as DNA methylation and methylation and acetylation of histones. The potential reversibility of epigenetic modifications makes them attractive targets for the treatment of aging-related pathologies.

• Method for Evaluating the Effect of Lucuma Extract on DNA Methylation

Normal or young Human Dermal Fibroblasts (NHDFs) aged or aged by replicative senescence were seeded in 96-well plates and incubated 24h at 37 ° C., 5% CO 2.

The cells were treated 24h in the presence of the test products.

The cells were then peeled off in the presence of trypsin and lysed. Genomic DNA was precipitated with ethanol.

The methylation rate of the DNA was assayed by ELISA using the Enzo kit: 5-Methylcytosine DNA ELISA kit. The values are represented from 50% for a better visibility of the results. • Evaluation of the effect of Lucuma extract on the methylation of DNA The results are given in the table below:

Lucuma extract reduces the level of methylation in replication-aged NHDF to that observed in young cells at 500 and 125 ppm. • Conclusion Lucuma extract is an ingredient that acts on the reduction of the methylation rate of the DNA, target of the epivieillissement, and thus has a rejuvenating activity. General conclusion on the anti-aging and rejuvenating activity During aging the collagen fibers and the elastic fibers are altered due to reduced synthesis and increased degradation. To demonstrate that the Lucuma extract acts on cell rejuvenation, the expression of the proteins involved in the structure of these fibers in intrinsically aged cells (replicative senescence) in the case of collagen was quantified in the previous examples. I and Elastin, or extrinsic by repeated UV irradiation (photo aging) in the case of Fibrillin 1.

The results obtained demonstrate that the Lucuma extract can revive the expression of the 3 markers.

As part of the analysis of DNA methylation, Lucuma extract shows homogeneous results in this experiment, it decreases methylation at the 3 concentrations tested. This effect gives information on the mode of action of the extract to reactivate the expression of proteins of the extracellular matrix, giving it its rejuvenating effect. Lucuma extract is therefore an active ingredient with a biological activity anti-aging, anti-aging and rejuvenating. H acts in a consistent manner on 3 targets of skin aging by reviving the protein expression compared to that observed in aged cells. It also has an innovative activity on epigenetics as demonstrated by its action on DNA methylation in mature cells. Finally, it demonstrates an anti-aging action in depth by its efficiency on the synthesis of proteins of the extracellular matrix.

Example 6; Evaluation of the energetic activity of Lucuma extract

The present study investigated the effect of Lucuma extract at different concentrations on the mitochondrial bioenergetic balance of normal human primary fibroblasts (NHDF). The Lucuma extract used in the evaluation described here is that of Example 2 described above.

The recent understanding that the depreciation of mitochondria is central to describing the aging process has aroused considerable interest in a new anti-aging approach that involves the development of new target molecules involved in mitochondrial dysfunction. For this purpose the study conducted here generates tools for the evaluation of the active ingredients present in the Lucuma extract demonstrating an impact on the improvement of the mitochondrial processes involved in the aging of the skin.

Several assays can be performed in isolation or in combination to determine cell viability: monitoring of species oxygen production, ATP production, oxygen uptake, lipid peroxidation, and depletion of mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA). riD ri 1 ri ri

Oxidative stress generated by environmental factors such as UV '' and pollution '' is a fundamental cause of the gradual decline of age-related tissue functions, including a gradual decrease in cellular energy and metabolism .

Therefore, it is interesting to evaluate in vitro the ability of active ingredients to revitalize cellular metabolism and in particular the renewal of the skin, through the stimulation of cellular respiration, thus becoming a key in the development of cosmetics new generation.

In this example are quantified dioxygen consumption (02), cell ATP level and prooxidant potential of Lucuma extract in living cells. • Prior evaluation of cytotoxicity

The cytotoxicity of the molecules was evaluated on monolayer NHDFs, preincubated for 24 hours with either 0.5% DMSO solvent or with Lucuma extract at 5 different concentrations (0.1, 0.5, 1.5 and 10%).

Cell viability was then measured by absorbance at 540 nm using the MTT reagent. The results obtained are given in FIG. 1A. The Lucuma extract exhibits a total cytotoxicity at 10%, average at 5% and becomes non-cytotoxic at 0.1, 0.5 and 1%.

Concentrations selected for testing:

For the rest of the study Lucuma extract is tested at the following concentrations: 0.05 - 0.25 -0.5%. - Mitochondria target

A mitochondrion is a cellular organelle whose physiological role is primordial. It is considered as the "power station" of the cell, because it is there that the last stages of the respiratory cycle take place, which converts the energy of the organic molecules resulting from the digestion (glucose) into energy directly usable by the cell ( ΓΑΤΡ). In the absence of oxygen the cell uses fermentation in the cytoplasm to produce the energy necessary for its operation, but it is a much less efficient system, which degrades the substrate incompletely. Increasing the concentration of ions in muscle cells is one of the reasons for fatigue after intense activity. In fact, these ions change the intracellular pH and in fact modify the enzymatic operating conditions of the cell which can no longer work properly. • Description of the Mitosafe® Bioenergetic Balance Screen (BBS) study

The Mitosafe® technology used in this study offers an alternative to current biochemical tests to analyze and screen natural ingredients based on their cellular performance and / or mitochondrial targets.

These assays generate results describing the mitochondrial energy balance, the redox and mitochondrial state in response to the biogenesis of the active compounds. They enable the identification and detection of mitochondrial dysfunctions as well as the rapid provision of relevant information on the potential of compounds to protect mitochondria from aggressions and dysfunctions. The Lucuma extract is diluted to 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% (v / v) in the presence of 0.5% DMSO and 4 tests of each concentration are tested.

In parallel are also tested reference compounds, to verify the proper functioning of the study (positive and negative controls and reference Coenzyme QIO). Mitosecure BBS analysis was performed according to the standard operating procedures ME-MO-29 ("BBS Fibroblasts"). It consists of the multiple quantification of dioxygen consumption and the level of cellular ATP with respect to cell viability.

After washing, the cells are incubated with each concentration of test elements for 120 minutes during the test, while their dynamic oxygen consumption is measured using a fluorescent probe. The fluorescent signal is recorded using a microplate reader (Varioskan-Thermo). The cells are maintained at 37 ° C during the kinetic loop. After measuring the oxygen uptake, cell viability is measured using a penetrating fluorescent dye. The third step is to measure the level of cellular en in chemiluminescence. The negative control is Tessai which consists of treating crops with the vehicle alone (DMSO 0.5%). Treatments with rotenone and FCCP (p-trifluoromethoxyphenylhydrazone) are the positive controls used as a validation of the experiment. All test items are tested in four copies. The effect of Lucuma extract was compared to both the negative control and the excitation reference compound.

The data are pretreated to express the cytotoxic potential for each active ingredient. The effects of the active ingredients are expressed as a ratio to the negative control.

The data are then processed to express the O 2 consumption per cell, the cellular ATP level per cell and the extracellular lactate level per cell for each experimental condition.

According to standard operating procedures, all validation criteria are met. The experiments are considered validated. The analysis of the Student's test was carried out to determine the level of importance of the amplitude of the variations recorded in the various parameters measured under the experimental conditions tested with regard to the negative and positive controls. All statistical data was generated using the SPSS software. • Evaluation of the effect of Lucuma extract on the consumption rate of oxygen (02)

The results are given in Figure IB.

NHDFs are incubated in 96-well plates with either 0.000086% coenzyme QIO or 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% Lucuma extract, while dynamic Oi consumption is measured during 120 minutes. Consumption levels of Oi are directly reflected by changes in the lifetime value of the probe. To obtain the values of the Oi consumption by the cell, the slopes of the kinetic profile are recorded and are calculated per cell for each well and each experimental condition. Student t-test analysis showed significant differences between the experimental conditions performed. • Conclusion

In the presence of the energizing reference compound, Coenzyme QIO at 0.000086%, the rate of O 2 consumption in human primary fibroblasts was significantly increased by nearly 3.3-fold compared to the negative control (p = 0.004). . Lucuma extract showed a bell-shaped effect on the O 2 consumption rate, significantly increasing oxygen consumption over untreated cells. At 0.25%, the effect of Lucuma extract was maximal, increasing the O 2 consumption rate by nearly 4.4 times compared to untreated cells. Overall, the effect of Lucuma extract at the three tested concentrations is comparable to that of 0.000086% Coenzyme QIO. The table below summarizes the effects of different tests of Lucuma extract on the rate of oxygen consumption.

• Evaluation of the effect of Lucuma extract on cellular ATP level

The results are given in Figure IC.

NHDFs are incubated with either 0.000086% Coenzyme QIO or 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% Lucuma extract for 120 minutes. The level of cellular ATP is measured by chemiluminescence. Linear regression was performed to produce cellular ATP concentrations using a corresponding validated standard curve (the correlation coefficient was higher than 0.95 (R = 0.99872)). Student t-test analysis shows significant differences between the experimental conditions performed. • Conclusion

The reference compound, 0.000086% Coenzyme QIO, significantly increased the level of cellular ATP by nearly 1.4-fold compared to untreated cells (p = 0.015). In primary human fibroblasts, the active ingredient of Lucuma extract at 0.05, 0.25 and 0.5% significantly increases the level of cellular ATP by nearly 1.4-fold compared with negative control, at a level comparable to that of coenzyme QIO. The table below summarizes the effects of different concentrations of Lucuma extract on the level of cellular ATP.

• Evaluation of the pro-oxidant potential of Lucuma extract at the cellular level

The test consists in quantifying the prooxidant potential of the Lucuma extract in comparison with a prooxidant reference, that is to say the measurement of the production of reactive derivatives of cellular oxygen ((DROc) The analysis is performed according to the standard operating procedures ME-MO-22 ("Cellular DRO in fibroblasts") .The cells are preincubated with the fluorescent probe at 37 ° C. for 30 minutes. After washing, the cells are incubated with the test elements at specified concentrations and the prooxidant reference compound, H 2 O 2 at 100 μm Dynamic dynamic DRO production is immediately recorded for 60 minutes Fluorescence is recorded every five minutes using a microplate reader (Varioskan-Thermo) The cells are maintained at 37 ° C during loop kinetics.The analysis of the prooxidant activity is multiple for the measurement of cell viability by spectrophotometry. The experiments include a blank and negative and positive controls. The negative control consists of crops treated with the vehicle only. The positive is the treatment of cultures with the reference compound prooxidant: 1Ή202. The active ingredient of the Lucuma extract will be tested at 0.05%, 0.25% and 0.5% (v / v), in the presence of 0.5% DMSO regardless of vehicle.

The different concentrations of Lucuma extract are tested in four copies. Their effects will be compared with both negative and positive controls.

The results are given in Figure ID. Student's t-test analysis is done to determine the level of importance of the amplitude of variation of the various parameters measured and potentially observed in all the experimental conditions with respect to the negative controls. and positive. All statistical data is generated using the SPSS software. - Conclusion The effect of the positive control has been validated in NHDF. The 100 μM H 2 O 2 induced a significant 3.4-fold increase in the rate of DRO production compared to untreated cells (p <0.0001). At all doses tested and after a short incubation of 1 hour, Lucuma extract did not stimulate the production of cellular DRO in NHDFs and left this level unchanged compared to that of untreated cells. Thus, in the present experimental conditions, the Lucuma extract is demonstrated to be not a prooxidant compound. - General conclusion on the energizing activity of the Lucuma extract The complete study showed that the Lucuma extract at the 3 concentrations tested, displays the profile of an energizing compound in the NHDF, comparable to that of the coenzyme QIO in stimulating oxidative phosphorylation, increasing both oxygen consumption and ATP production, while not generating waste (oxygenated reactive derivatives) responsible for cell oxidation. The Lucuma extract according to the invention stimulates the respiratory chain, thereby stimulating the energy function of the mitochondria, the seat of the ATP production involved in the vital cellular processes, while respecting the balance of oxidation-reduction thus remaining balanced. The extract of Lucuma thus demonstrates an energizing activity ^^ on human skin, comparable to coenzyme QIO.

EXAMPLE 7 Evaluation of the Moisturizing Activity of the Lucuma Extract The epidermis forms a physical and permeable barrier. This barrier is continually regenerated by the differentiation of keratinocytes, a process known as keratinization. In the epidermis, there are several important components for barrier function including proteins such as Claudine, involucrine, filaggrine acting on the prevention of water loss, lipids such as ceramides contributing to the permeable properties of the barrier and other elements such as aquaporin 3 acting on the transport of solutes or hyaluronan synthase 3 involved in the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

When the skin barrier is functioning properly, the epidermis prevents the loss of water.

A study evaluating the effect of Lucuma extract on the expression of markers in fibroblast models in vitro is thus conducted here on 16 genes specific for the cutaneous barrier function. The Lucuma extract used in the evaluation described here is that of Example 2 described above.

Table 1 below summarizes the genes tested, classified by groups according to their biological function.

Table 1

The study consists of RT-qPCR analysis of the gene mRNA expression profile.

Among them, the gene filaggrin (FLG), that of sphyngomyelin phosphodiesterase 1 (SMPD1) and the arachidonate gene lipoxygenase 12 (ALOX12).

Filaggrin is the protein located in the granular layer and in the stratum corneum, the amount of which is associated with the hydration state of the skin. Only this marker can be used to evaluate the hydration state of the skin in place of a TEWL measurement (Trans Epiedermal

Water Loss). In pathological situations where xerosis or dryness of the skin (atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis vulgaris) is observed, a decrease in profilaggrin and / or flaggrin has been detected. According to Proksch et al, the follow-up of Expression of filaggrin is a good way to track the barrier function and / or hydration level of the Stratum Comeum.

Sphyngomyelin is a sphingolipid consisting of a ceramide unit bound to a choline residue or ethanolamine by a phosphodiester bond. In humans, sphingomyelin constitutes about 85% of all sphingolipids and is the only phospholipid that is not a phosphoglyceride.

The protein encoded by this SMPD1 gene is a lysosomal acid sphingomyelinase that converts sphingomyelin to ceramide, an abundant molecule in cell membranes. Ceramides do not only play a structural role in biological membranes, and may also have lipid signaling functions. Their best-understood actions range from cell differentiation to apoptosis, cell proliferation and programmed cell death.

The protein encoded by the SMPD1 gene also has phospholipase C activity. The defects of this gene are a cause of Niemann-Pick type A and B disease, due to a lysosomal acid sphingomyelinase deficiency leading to the accumulation of sphingomyelin, then cholesterol in monocytes or even in the brain (type A).

Lipoxygenase is a type of enzymatic protein that catalyzes the oxidation of fatty acids or other alkenes. There are many kinds. Arachidonate 12-lipoxygenase ALOX12 converts arachidonic acid, omega-6 polyunsaturated fatty acid to 20 carbon atoms, present in phospholipids (including phosphatidylethanolamines, phosphatidylcholines and phosphatidylinositols) and constituting cell membranes of the body. This enzyme also interacts with keratin 5, a cytokeratin specifically expressed in the basal layer of the epidermis. • Material and method Normal human epidermal keratinocytes (NHEK) - Cell type: NHEK, Reference ^ AOalternatives K341, used 3rd pass

- Culture conditions: 37 ° C, 5% CO 2 - Culture medium: Keratinocyte-SFM supplemented with

Epidermal Growth Factor (EGF) 0.25 ng / ml Pituitary Extract (PE) 25 μg / ml Gentamycin 25 μg / ml - Test medium: Keratinocyte-SFM supplemented with

Gentamycin 25 μg / ml • Prior evaluation of cytotoxicity

The keratinocytes are inoculated and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium is then replaced with the test medium containing or not (control) test compounds or reference (1.5 mM calcium chloride) and the cells are incubated for 24 hours. All conditions are realized in n = 3. At the end of the treatment, the cells are incubated in the presence of MIT (tetrazolium salt) whose transformation into blue crystals of formazan is proportional to the activity of succinate dehydrogenase (mitochondrial enzyme). After dissociation of the cells and solubilization of formazan by addition of DMSO, the optical density (OD), representative of the number of living cells and their metabolic activity, is measured with a microplate reader at 540 nm (VERSAmax, Molecular Devices).

Concentrations selected for testing: 0.0003, 0.001 and 0.003% • Culture and processing

The keratinocytes are inoculated and cultured in culture medium for 24 hours. The medium is then replaced with the test medium containing or not (control) the test compounds or reference CaCli (calcium chloride 1.5 mM) and the cells are incubated for 24 hours. All conditions are realized in n = 3. At the end of the incubation, the culture supernatants are removed and the cell mats are rinsed with PBS solution. The plates are immediately frozen dry at -80 ° C.

• Differential expression analysis - PCR series The expression of the markers is evaluated by RT-qPCR on the messenger RNAs (mRNA) extracted from the cell mats of each treatment (the replicates are pooled before the extraction of RNA). The analysis of gene expression is performed in n = 2 using 2 "PCR series" containing 16 genes including 2 reference genes, for the verification of the test (so-called "household"), dedicated to the research and adapted to the "screening" format. • Inverse transcription

The total RNAs of each sample are extracted using TriPure Isolation Reagent® according to the protocol recommended by the supplier. The quantity and quality of the RNAs are evaluated by capillary electrophoresis (Bioanalyzer 2100, Agilent). RNA quality controls are presented in the appendix.

Traces of potentially contaminating DNA are removed by treatment with the DNA-free system (Ambion). Complementary DNAs (cDNA) are synthesized by reverse transcription of total RNA in the presence of oligo (dT) and the enzyme "Transcriptor Reverse Transcriptase" (Roche). The cDNA obtained is quantified by spectrophotometry (Nanovue, GE Healthcare) and the cDNA amounts are adjusted. • Quantitative PCR

PCR reactions (polymerase chain reactions) are performed by quantitative PCR (Light Cycler, Roche Molecular Systems Inc.) and according to the procedures recommended by the supplier.

The reaction mixture (10 μl final) for each sample contains: - 2.5 μl of cDNA, the primers of the various markers used, the reaction mixture containing the enzyme Taq DNA polymerase, the SYBR Green I marker and MgCl 2. • Processing quantitative PCR data

The raw data is transferred and processed under the Microsoft Excel software. Fluorescence incorporation into the amplified DNA is measured continuously during PCR cycles. These measurements make it possible to obtain fluorescence intensity curves as a function of PCR cycles and thus to evaluate a relative expression value (ER) for each marker.

The number of cycles is determined from the "exit" points of the fluorescence curves. For the same marker analyzed, the longer a sample leaves (high number of cycles), the lower the initial number of copies of TARNm.

The value of ER (relative expression) is expressed in arbitrary units (UA) according to the following formula: (l / 2number of cycles) x 106

The mQPA-NHEK-BARRIER-16 PCR series contains 2 reference genes (housekeeping genes) used for data normalization. The genes RPS28 (Ribosomal protein S28) and GAPDH (Glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase), are constitutively expressed and their level of expression is not or only slightly impacted by the treatments. Thus, the level of expression of each marker is compared with the average expression of these 2 reference genes.

The results are given in Table 2 below:

Table 2

Incubation of normal human epidermal keratinocytes with the CaCL reference increased the expression of mRNAs encoding markers of lipid synthesis (SULT2B1 and ALOX12) and keratinocyte differentiation (FLG, FVL and TGM1). These results were expected and validated the trial. Lucuma extract, tested at 0.0003, 0.001 and 0.003%, similarly stimulated the expression of the SMPD1 and ALOX12 markers at the three concentrations tested, as well as that of FLG at the two lowest concentrations. Conclusion Lucuma extract increases the expression of the markers of lipid synthesis and keratinocyte differentiation (markers related to hydration) demonstrating that the Lucuma extract according to the invention improves the skin barrier function and thus improves the skin's moisture.

Example 8 Cosmetic Composition - Day Cream for the Face

Operating mode:

Weigh phase A and allow to swell without stirring for 30 minutes. Put phase A to heat at 75 ° C in a water bath. Weigh and mix phase B. Weigh phase C and heat to 75 ° C in a water bath. Add phase B to phase A. Mix well. With stirring for phase C in phase A + B. Well homogenize. Add phase D, extemporaneously. Add phase E, mix well. Add phase F, mix well.

Example 9; Cosmetic composition - Form 2cl for the visa2e

Operating mode:

Disperse Phase A with agitation. Sprinkle TUltrez 10 in the water, allow to swell for 30 minutes. Heat Phase C until completely dissolved. Mix Phase A with Phase B. Add C in Phase (B + A). Add Phase D, with stirring, to the Phase (A + B + C). Add Phase E. Neutralize with Phase F. Add Phase G and mix.

Example 10 Cosmetic Composition - Serum Form

Operating mode:

Phase A: Sprinkle carbomer in water, allow to swell for 15 minutes. Mix Phase B. Pour Phase B into Phase A, homogenize. Then Weigh Phase C, mix and add in Phase A + B, with stirring. Allow to swell 1 hour. Extemporaneously add Phase D in the previous phase with agitation. Neutralize with Phase E. Stir. Then add Phase F. Allow to mix for at least 1 hour with stirring and then add Phase G. Mix well.

Example 11: Night cream for face

Procedure: Weigh Phase A and let it swell for 30 minutes. Heat Phase A in a 75 ° C water bath; Heat Phase B until complete solubilization. Add Phase B to Phase A. Heat Phase C in a 75 ° C water bath. Add Phase C to Phase A + B with stirring. Add Phase D and mix well. Neutralize with Phase E at 55 ° C. Add Phase F then Phase G and mix well.

Example 12: Cream for the body.

Procedure: Weigh Phase A and let it swell for 30 minutes. Heat Phase A in a 75 ° C water bath. Heat Phase B until complete solubilization. Add Phase B to Phase A. Heat Phase C in a 75 ° C water bath. Add Phase C to Phase A + B with stirring. Add Phase D and mix well. Neutralize with Phase E at 55 ° C. Add Phase F then Phase G and mix well.

Example 13: Lotion

Procedure: Weigh Phase A. Weigh Phase B and mix. Add Phase B to Phase A with stirring for 30 minutes. Weigh Phase C, mix until a homogeneous mixture. Add Phase C to Phase A + B with stirring. Add Phase to the previous mixture. Add Phase E to the above mixture with stirring. Well homogenize. Weigh Phase F, mix and add to the previous mixture. Mix insistently.

Example 14: Day Cream

Procedure: Phase A: Pour Ultrez 10 into the water and allow to swell for 30 minutes. Weigh Phase B and let melt at 60 ° C. Heat Phase A in a 75 ° C water bath. Weigh Phase C and heat to 75 ° C in a water bath. While stirring (Starvo v = 500 rpm), add Phase C to Phase A. Add arbitrarily Phase B and Phase D in Phase A + B and add Phase E. Thoroughly homogenize. Cool to 45 ° C and add Phase F. At 35 ° C add Phase G, mix well. Add Phase H, mix well.

Example 15: Fluid for the body.

Procedure: Phase A: Pour Ultrez 10 into the water and allow to swell for 30 minutes. With propeller stirring (300 rpm), pour in Phase B and allow to swell for 1 hour. Add Phase A in Phase B with propeller stirring (300 rpm), mix well. Weigh and stir Phase C, weigh Phase D and mix. Add Phase C to Phase A + B. Add Phase D to Phase A + B + C. Well homogenize. Add Phase E then Phase F and G and finally Phase H. pH = 6.2.

Example 16: Night Cream

Procedure: Phase A: Pour Ultrez 10 into the water and allow to swell for 30 minutes. With propeller stirring (300 rpm), pour in Phase B and allow to swell for 1 hour. Add Phase A in Phase B with propeller stirring (300 rpm), mix well. Weigh and stir Phase C, weigh Phase D and mix. Add Phase C to Phase A + B with knife stirring (300 rpm). Add Phase D to Phase A + B + C. Well homogenize. Add Phase E then Phase F and G and finally Phase H. Mix well.

Example 17: Hair lotion.

Example 18: Moisturizing makeup.

Example 19 Lip Balm

Procedure: Heat Phase A at 85 ° C. Mix Phase B and heat to 85 ° C. Gently add Phase A to Phase B with stirring (Staro v = 3000 rpm then 1200 rpm). Add Phase C preheated to 80 ° C, homogenize. Add Phase D at 35 ° C. Pay.

Example 20: Hair protection spray.

Procedure: Weigh and mix Phase A with a knife stirrer v = 300 rpm. Add Phase B, mix and add Phase C. Adjust pH to 5.0-5.5 with Phase D. References 1. Erazo, S. G .; Escobar, A .; Olaeta, J. A .; Undurraga, P. Alimentos 1999, 24, 67-75) 2. Glorio, P .; Repo-Carrasco, R .; Velezmoro, C .; Anticona, S .; Huaranga, R .; Martinez, P .; Melgarejo, S .; Astuhuaman, L .; Huaman, N. E .; Icochea, J. C .; Pena, J. C. Rev. Soc. Who m. Peru 2008, 74, 46-56. 4. Salicyloyl-phytosphingosine: a novel agent for the repair of photo-skin. The International Journal of Dermatology Volume 158 Issue 3 Pages 472-477, 2008 Cosmetic Science Volume 29 Issue 4 Pages 319-329 Journal 2007 5. A cosmetic 'anti-aging' product improves photoaged skin: a double-blind, randomized controlled trial British Journal of Dermatology Volume 161 Issue2 Pages 419-426 Journal 2009 6. Direct The expression of elastin to elastic fibers, elastin and matrix metalloproteinases and stimulation of biosynthesis of fibrillar collagens, elastin, and fibrillins by xanthohumol (Journal of Cosmetic Science, Volume 61, Issue 2, Pages 125-132, Journal 2010). The in vitro effects of a natural dipeptide on the biological cascade. 8. A novel anti-aging mechanism for retinol: induction of dermal elastin synthesis and elastin fiber training International Journal of Cosmetic Science Volume 33 Issue 1 Pages 62-69 Journal 2011 9. Matrix proteins of the papillary dermis - primary targets of intrinsic dermal aging ? Global Ingredients &amp; Formulations Guide 2009 Pagesl31-142 Conference 2009 10. Matrix proteins of the papillary dermis - primary targets of intrinsic dermal aging? IF SCC Magazine Volume 11 Issue 3 Pages 225-229 Journal 2008 11. Fibrillins and Fibrillinopathies, Gwenaëlle Collod et al .. Medicine and Science No. 10, vol. 12, p. 1077 -1086, October 1996 12. Beaded filaments: structure, functions and associated diseases, Eric Hanssen et al .. Medicine and Science No. 3, vol. 17, p. 327 -335, March 2001 13. Stiff Skin Syndrome Cause Found, P. J. Couke et al., March 18, 2010 14. Fibrillin Assembly Requires Fibronectin, L. Sabatier et al., Molecular Biology of the Cell, Vol. 20, 846-858, February 1, 2009. 15. Dissecting the Microfibril Fibrillin: Structural Insights in the Organization and Function, SA Jensen et al. Structure Review 20, Cell Press, February 8, 2012 16. A new wrinkle on old skin : the role of elastic fibers in skin aging, Langton AK; Sherratt M J; Griffiths C E M; Watson R E B International Journal of the Cosmetic Science Journal; Article; (JOURNAL ARTICLE) 2010 17. Balaban, R. S., S. Nemoto, and T. Finkel, Mitochondria, oxidants, and aging. Cell, 2005. 120 (4): p. 483-95. IS.Wallace, D.C., et al., Mitochondrial biology, degenerative diseases and aging. Biofaetors 1998. 7 (3): p. 187-90. 19. Finkel, T. and N.J. Holbrook, Oxidants, oxidative stress and the biology of aging. Natnre 2000. 408 (6809): p. 239-47.) 20. Bossi, O., et al., UV irradiation increases ROSproduction via PKCdelta signaling in primary murine fibroblasts. J Cell Biochem, 2008. 105 (1): p. 194-207. 21. Paz, M.L., et al. Mitochondrial dysfunction and cellular stress progression afler ultraviolet B irradiation in human keratinocytes. Photodermatol Photoimmunol Photomed, 2008. 24 (3): p. 115-22. 22. Aitken, G.R., et al. Direct monitoring of UV-induced free radical generation in HaCaT keratinocytes. Clin Exp Dermatol, 2007. 32 (6): p. 722-7.) 23. Wan, G., et al., Real-World Exposure of Airborne Particle Triggers Oxidative Stress in an Animal Model. Int J Physiol Pathophysiol Pharmacol, 2010. 2 (1): p. 64-68. 24. Becker, S., et al., Seasonal variations in air pollution particle-induced inflammatory mediator release and oxidative stress. About Health Perspect, 2005. 113 (8): p. 1032-8. 25. Lanuti, E. L. and R. S. Kirsner, Effects of pollution on skin aging. J Invest Dermatol, 2010. 130 (12): p. 2696. 26. Vierkotter, A., et al., Airborne part of the exposure and extrinsic skin aging. J Invest Dermatol, 2010. 130 (12): p. 2719-26. 27. Stadtman, E.R., Protein oxidation and aging. Science, 1992. 257 (5074): p. 1220-4. 28. Ginger RS et al., Arch Dermatol Res 297: 235-241, 2005. 29. Rawlings AV and Matts PJ, JID, 124: 1099-1110, 2005. 30. Proksch E et al., Exp Dermatol, 17: 1063 -1072, 2008. 31. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/gene/6609 32. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/gene/3852 33. http: // blog .nutrilifeshop.com / coenzyme-qlO-a-new-panacee-cosmetics / # sthash.blgTxnGy.A0QKv24d.dpuf

Claims (9)

A process for the preparation of an extract of the finish of Pouteria lucuma, consisting of the skin and / or the pulp, comprising the following successive steps: (a) dispersion and extraction in an aqueous and / or alcoholic solvent and / or glycerol and / or glycolic skin and / or finite pulp of Pouteria lucuma, (b) decantation and / or centrifugation and / or clarifying filtration of the extract obtained following step (a); (c) microfiltering the extract obtained in step (b); (d) recovery of Lucuma finite extract; (e) where appropriate, ultrafiltration and / or nanofiltration of the extract obtained in step (c); and then (f) optionally drying the extract obtained in step (e) with or without a drying medium. 2. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that the preparation of the finite extract of Pouteria lucuma is performed from the dried pulp. 3. Extract of the finish of Pouteria lucuma, consisting of the skin and / or the finished or dried pulp, obtainable by the process according to claim 1 or 2. 4. A cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an effective amount of an extract of Pouteria lucuma fin consisting of the skin and / or the finished or dried pulp according to claim 3. 5. Cosmetic composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the effective amount is a vegetable extract content ranging from 10% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Cosmetic treatment method intended to provide an energizing effect on the skin, to prevent and / or fight against the dryness of the skin and mucous membranes, to prevent and / or to fight against the cutaneous signs of aging and / or photo-aging , characterized in that the composition as defined in claim 4 is applied topically to the skin, the mucous membranes and the lights to be treated. 7. Use in a cosmetic composition of at least one effective amount of an extract of the finite Pouteria lucuma according to claim 3 as an active ingredient to provide an energizing effect on the skin, to prevent and / or fight against skin aging and to moisturize the skin. 8. Cosmetic use according to claim 7 characterized in that the finite extract of Pouteria lucuma is an extract of the pulp dried finish. 9. Cosmetic use according to one of claims 7 and 8 characterized in that the effective amount is a vegetable extract content ranging from 10 "to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.