FR3038512B1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION WITH PROGRESSIVE HEATING EFFECT - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention disclosed is a cosmetic composition with a progressive heating effect. This heating results from an oxidation-reduction reaction between a combination of fumaric acid and organic salt and various metal compounds based on magnesium or aluminum. The combined use of fumaric acid and monosodium of citrate makes it possible to control the progressiveness and the intensity of the rise in temperature throughout its use. The composition, pulverulent and anhydrous, requires the addition of a determined quantity water to activate all the reactions responsible for the heating effect. Such a composition can be used to make body wraps and face masks.

Description

Cosmetic composition with progressive heating effect

Technical field: Cosmetics. Heated cosmetics. Wraps and masks of beauty.

The present invention relates to a powdery cosmetic composition consisting of a combination of exothermically reactive products, providing the composition with heating properties. This composition is applicable to many cosmetic treatments and can be used for body wraps and masks of beauty.

Different heating systems exist in the cosmetic field.

Some cosmetic compositions are for example associated with a compartmentalized container, in which the respectively reducing and oxidizing reagents are separated. The exothermic reaction results from their contacting, as disclosed in US Pat. No. 4,088,751 A (COLGATE-PALMOLIVE CO) 09.05.78, page 1, column 2, for example. According to these techniques it appears impossible to offer the user a cosmetic composition comprising the various reagents without resorting to such compartmentalization. Other cosmetic heating compositions are described in powder form. Certain patent applications, such as US 6287580 B1 (UNILEVER HOME & PERSONAL CARE) 11.09.11 Abstract, disclose cosmetic compositions whose heating characteristic is based on a ferric oxidation, triggered by the humidity present in the air. This type of composition, however, may oxidize as soon as it leaves the packaging, thus losing its heating property before its application.

In addition, mention was made of a heating composition whose temperature rise resulting from an iron oxidation-reduction reaction could be controlled by the addition of a catalyst US 4088751 A (COLGATE-PALMOLIVE CO) 09.05 However, this process seems to complicate the formulation by the addition of molecules not directly involved in the exothermic effect.

By increasing the viscosity of another composition, whose heating reaction results from an interaction of zeolites with sodium and potassium, it is also possible to control the rise in temperature US4626550 A (PQ CORPORATION) 02.12.86 page However, this modulation of the viscosity may make the composition difficult to apply to the skin, since it is impossible to control both the viscosity and the heating effect.

US Pat. No. 2004253198 A1 (SHEFER ADI) 16.12.04, page 1, lines 3 to 7, describes the use of propyl amines and polyalkylene imines with water to obtain a heating effect in a product. cosmetic. But it is not compatible with the formulation of a powdery product, and does not allow to obtain a heating effect both intense and progressive.

Patent WO9308793 A1 (THE BOOTS COMPANY PLC) 13.05.93 page 1, lines 4 to 14, describes the use as absorbent and heating products of various mineral compounds such as kaolin, fuller's earth and bentonite, only or mixed with and optionally combined with other heating agents well known to those skilled in the art (zinc oxide, magnesium oxide, aluminum oxide, magnesium aluminum silicate) compatible with the formulation of powder products. However, the heating effect remains insufficient, and especially does not present the desired progressivity.

Lastly, the fumaric acid-based cosmetic heating compositions previously marketed on the European market contained an amount of this acid (greater than 10%) which can induce ocular and cutaneous irritations (TOXNET, International Labor Office, Encyclopedia of Occupational Health and Safety). Geneva, Switzerland: International Labor Office, 1983., page 45). For this reason, these products are no longer put on this market.

To overcome the constraints mentioned above, the applicant company has sought to design a powdered heating cosmetic composition based on oxidation-reduction reactions between metal or organometallic powders and acid and organic salts, allowing a gradual and controlled heating during its application, and activated by a quantity of water large enough to prevent early oxidation of the powder by the ambient humidity. From the knowledge of those skilled in the art in the field concerned, it has been planned to develop a cosmetic composition whose progressive warming results from an attack of metals and metal compounds by a combination of acid and salt organic. This anhydrous powdery composition requires the addition of a defined quantity of water in order to activate the exothermic reaction.

In the presence of water, these different metals and compounds are hydrolysed and release ions that react exothermically, so that the metal cations are reduced by the hydronium ions. For the production of a powdered heating cosmetic composition, such a metal may be used at a content of between 0.5% and 5%, in the form of a powder with a particle size of less than 200 microns, and may be added with a or more metal compounds present at a total content of between 0 and 8%.

Such metal compounds, such as sulphates or oxides, may be added to the composition alone or in combination, in the form of a powder of particle size similar to that mentioned above. More rapidly hydrolyzed than metals, they accelerate the start of the exothermic reaction. Preferentially, a concentration of 2% to 8% magnesium sulfate or 2% to 8% magnesium oxide, or a mixture of these two compounds, the total of which is in the same proportion, will be used.

The preferred metal is magnesium, which reacts as Mg2 + ions. Also, a combination of magnesium, included in a proportion of 0.5 to 3%, and magnesium sulfate between 2 and 8%, is preferably used to obtain a cosmetic composition heating from the beginning of the application and reaching a temperature according to the usual expectations of the field (close to 55 ° C).

This metal is incorporated in the form of a powder having a particle size of less than 100 μm. The magnesium sulphate powder, with a maximum particle size of 200 .mu.m, may be replaced, in identical proportions, by a magnesium oxide powder with similar particle size characteristics.

In addition, the applicant had the astonishing idea to combine a combination of fumaric acid and organic salt, in proportions respectively between 0.5% to 4% on the one hand, and from 4% to 16% on the other hand, triggering an exothermic reaction in contact with metal compounds. The organic salt preferentially chosen is sodium citrate. In this way, the heating composition obtained undergoes a progressive increase in temperature, perceptible by the user, favoring its relaxation and, where appropriate, the penetration of active ingredients. In addition to controlling the kinetics of heating and the maximum intensity of heat (which must not exceed 65 ° C to avoid any risk of burns), this combination keeps a percentage of fumaric acid sufficiently reduced to be compatible with the toxicological requirements for body wrap products: not more than 5% fumaric acid per 200g of body wrap applied once a week, knowing that a content greater than 1% results in demand by the application by the assessor the safety of performing skin tests before the product is placed on the market.

Monosodium citrate reacts faster than fumaric acid, forming hydronium ions that interact with metal compounds. The exothermic reaction can thus reach an optimum maximum temperature between 51 ° C. and 54 ° C., but more generally between 45 ° C. and 60 ° C. To achieve such temperatures, the amount of monosodium citrate will represent 7 to 10% of the final composition. The use of this salt also allows the maintenance of a pH in the usual values of cosmetics applied to the skin. The hydrolysis of fumaric acid is more gradual. Hydronium ions are released and participate in the oxidation of metal compounds initiated by monosodium citrate. Fumaric acid hydrolyzes less rapidly than monosodium citrate, it regulates the formation of hydronium ions and thereby the oxidation reaction. The adjustment of the acid and organic salt concentrations makes it possible to control the overall kinetics of the hydrolysis, thus the rate of heating of the composition and the intensity of its rise in temperature. Thus, the gradual increase in temperature is achieved by incorporating between 0.5% and 4% fumaric acid. In this way, on average 13 minutes, but preferably between 1 and 15 minutes are necessary to reach the maximum temperature. The heating effect is thus obtained by the following reactions:

Monosodium citrate + H20 -> H30 +

Fumaric acid + H20 H30 +

Magnesium + H20 Mg2 + and heat

Mg2 + + H30 + -> Mg + H2 + 2H20 and heat

The following list, given by way of example, discloses, in a non-exhaustive manner, formulas of compositions. Quantities of components are given in percentage.

Example # 1:

Product% TALC 53.8 MAGNESIUM POWDER 1.5 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 8 MONOSODIUM CITRATE 8 FUMARIC ACID 1 SODIUM ALGINATE 0.7 COCOA GRAIN POWDER 7 MAIZE STARCH 20 100

Example 2:

Product% TALC 51.2 MAGNESIUM POWDER 1.5 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 8 MONOSODIUM CITRATE 8 FUMARIC ACID 1 MAIZE STARCH 20 MICRONIZED LAMINATE 5 SPIRULINE MICRONIZED POWDER 0.3 MARINE LIME 2 ZEOLITE 3 100

Example 3:

Product% TALC 56.05 MAGNESIUM POWDER 1.5 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 9 MONOSODIUM CITRATE 8 FUMARIC ACID 1 MAIZE STARCH 20 SODIUM ALGINATE 07 PIGMENT 1 ARGANIER SHELL POWDER 2 PERFUME 075 100

Example 4:

Product% TALC 59.05 ALUMINUM POWDER 1.5 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 8 MONOSODIUM CITRATE 8 FUMARIC ACID 1 MAIZE STARCH 20 SODIUM ALGINATE 07 PIGMENT 1 PERFUME 0.75 100

Example 5:

Product% TALC 64.08 ALUMINUM POWDER 1 MAGNESIUM POWDER 0.5 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 2 MONOSODIUM CITRATE 8 FUMARIC ACID 1 MAIZE STARCH 20 SODIUM ALGINATE 0.7 PERFUME 1 COFFEE SEED POWDER 1100

Example 6:

Product% TALC 60.8 ALUMINUM POWDER 1.5 ALUMINUM OXIDE 8 MONOSODIUM CITRATE 8 FUMARIC ACID 1 MAIZE STARCH 20 SODIUM ALGINATE 0.7 100

In another embodiment, magnesium at a concentration of 0.5 to 4% may be used as the only metallic source.

Aluminum can replace or supplement the magnesium in forms and concentrations equivalent to those mentioned above, so that the final concentrations of the composition reach 1.5 to 3% of metal, and 2 to 8% for the total of sulfate and oxide forms.

The exothermic reaction between the metal compounds, the acid and the salt is triggered by the addition of water to the pulverulent composition, preferably in a proportion of 50% of water and 50% of composition, this making it possible to obtain viscosity allowing easy application to the skin. The water will be at room temperature (20 ° C) so as not to disturb the progression of the heating.

Finally, the composition may be supplemented with one or more ingredients commonly used by those skilled in the art in the cosmetic field. Similarly, the heating effect can be enhanced by the addition of heating active cosmetics commonly used by those skilled in the art, such as zeolite, certain calcium sulphates, kaolin and bentonite.

The described cosmetic compositions can be used in the composition of body wraps and masks for the face.

Claims (4)

claims 1. powdered heating cosmetic composition, characterized in that: - it comprises a metal, at a content of between 0.5% and 3%, an adjunct of one or more metal compounds present at a content of between 0% and 8%; in the form of a powder; it comprises a combination of fumaric acid and monosodium citrate, in proportions respectively between 0.5% to 4% on the one hand and 4% to 18% on the other hand; 2. A powdery cosmetic heating composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the metal is magnesium, and the metal compounds are magnesium sulfate, or magnesium oxide, or a mixture of these two compounds. 3. Powdered cosmetic cosmetic composition according to claim 2, characterized in that aluminum replaces, in whole or in part, the magnesium in the form of metal or in the form of sulphates, or in the form of oxides, so that the concentrations The final compositions are from 0.5% to 3% metal, and from 2% to 8% sulfates and metal oxides. 4. Cosmetic powdery heating composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more ingredients commonly used by those skilled in the art in the cosmetic field, including other assets known to be known for their heating properties.