FR3034014A1 - ASSOCIATION OF DAY AND NIGHT COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR STIMULATING GROWTH AND PIGMENTING THE CILES - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to the combination of a cosmetic composition called "day" and a cosmetic composition called "night" and its use to induce and / or stimulate the growth and / or pigmentation of keratin fibers including human , preferably eyelashes and / or curb their fall and / or increase their density according to the circadian rhythms of the keratinous fiber cells.

Description

The present invention relates to the combination of a so-called "day" cosmetic composition and of a "night" cosmetic composition and to its use for inducing and combating eyelashes. and / or stimulate the growth and / or pigmentation of the keratinous fibers, in particular human fibers, preferably eyelashes and / or slow their fall and / or increase their density as a function of the circadian rhythms of the cells of the keratinous fibers.

Eyelashes, in addition to their contribution to appearance, play a functional role in protecting sensitive ocular structures against foreign particles entering the nerve plexus surrounding hair follicles at a very low threshold for excitation (Moses, 1970). ); Therefore, dust or other particles that can come into contact with the hair fiber of the eyelashes are sufficient stimulus to produce a blinking reflex, thus protecting the eye. In terms of the aesthetic function of eyelashes, eyelash prominence has been observed to be directly related to the attractiveness of individuals, with long thick eyelashes being considered a desirable physical attribute with a positive psychological effect (Shaikh and Bodla, 2006). . Yet the frequent use by women of mascaras, eyelash curlers, and aggressive make-up sessions accelerate the fall and decrease in the number, condition and appearance of eyelashes. In addition, with age, there is a decrease in the pigmentation of eyelashes, like other keratinous fibers, making them less visible.

Therefore, for many years, especially in the cosmetics industry, it has been sought to improve the condition of the eyelashes, to reduce or slow down the loss of the eyelashes, if possible to induce or stimulate their growth and to increase their growth. natural pigmentation.

Some therapeutic agents are known to induce eyelash growth. Indeed, clinical studies have shown that PGF2- analogues in the course of their use for the treatment of occular disease have caused, in some patients, growth of hair and eyelashes in humans and animals (Murray A. and Johnstone MANDELEVIUM, 1997. J. Amndt Opht, 124 (4), 544-547). Thus during its use for the reduction of intraocular pressure, latanoprost has been reported to cause, in some patients, an increase in pigmentation and growth of eyelashes. U.S. Patent No. 6,262,105. In addition, Allergan, Inc. has patented and marketed bimatoprost (prostamide) for the treatment of glaucoma 5 but has also filed US Patent No. 7,351,404 directed to the use of this molecule and similar molecules to increase the growth of eyelashes and also increase the natural pigmentation of the eyelashes. However, prostaglandin and its analogues have significant negative side effects and may cause pigmentation or even irreversible iris color changes, eyelid hyperpigmentation, ocular inflammation, macular edema (retinal swelling), which may lead to a decrease in visual acuity. There is therefore a need today for new alternative cosmetic compositions for stimulating the growth of keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes, and / or for curbing their fall and / or increasing their density and / or increasing their natural pigmentation and in particular for new compositions. lacking the negative side effects of prostaglandin analogs, preferably with naturally occurring active ingredients, as demanded by consumers of cosmetics.

After much research, the Applicant has developed a new combination of two cosmetic compositions to address this technical problem.

In particular, the Applicant has identified that keratinous fibers, and in particular eyelashes, have a different cellular activity as a function of circadian rhythms, and therefore of the day or the night. In particular, the Applicant has identified that during the day, the keratinous fibers, and in particular the eyelashes and the ciliary cells, need to be protected from external aggressions, in particular free radicals generated by UV which discolour the eyelashes, pollution, tobacco, make-up and / or make-up removal (mascara type for eyelashes) etc. With these attacks during the day, the ciliary cells naturally tend to devote themselves to the protection of the eyelash, neglecting the production of the eyelash, which will then be of less good quality, less, thick, less long.

3034014 At night, the ciliary follicles located in the eyelid do not have to protect themselves as during the day and therefore have increased activity, and in particular have increased eyelash growth activity compared to the day. The applicant has therefore developed a new combination of two cosmetic compositions that make it possible to respond to the technical problem raised, including the combination of a first cosmetic composition called "day" to be applied in the morning and specifically targeted to protect the eyelash from aggression. external, inducing and / or stimulating the growth and / or pigmentation of eyelashes and can serve as a makeup base, and a second cosmetic composition called "night" specifically targeted for an evening application 10 to allow a better activity of the composition during the night on the ciliary follicles. An object of this invention is therefore the combination of two compositions in the form of a kit comprising: 1) A so-called "day" cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least the N-palmytoyl-Gly-His peptide -Lys and / or the N-palmytoyl-PalGly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide, and / or D-panthenol, and / or an extract of Coleus, and / or a witch hazel plant extract, and / or a plant extract horse chestnut, and / or a plant extract of St. John's wort, and / or a plant extract of nettle, and / or a plant extract of apple, and / or hydrolysed Sericin, with at least one excipient acceptable for cosmetic application; and 2) a so-called "night" cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least the N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide and / or the N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide, and / or an extract of Coleus, and / or a plant extract of witch hazel, and / or a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, and / or a plant extract of St. John's Wort, and / or a plant extract of nettle, and or a plant extract of apple, and / or a red clover flower extract, and / or adenosine with at least one excipient acceptable for cosmetic application.

In the absence of details in the text, the term "composition" refers then indifferently to the so-called composition "day" and composition called "night". Preferably, the kit according to the invention comprises at least: 1) a "day" cosmetic composition characterized in that it comprises at least the N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, the N-palmytoyl- Pal-Gly-GlnPro-Arg, D-panthenol, an extract of Coleus, a plant extract of witch hazel, a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, a plant extract of St. John's wort, a plant extract of nettle, a plant extract apple, and hydrolysed Sericin, with at least one excipient acceptable for cosmetic application; and 2) a so-called "night" cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises at least the N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide and the N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide, an extract of Coleus, a plant extract of witch hazel, a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, a plant extract of St. John's wort, a plant extract of nettle, a plant extract of apple, a red clover flower extract, and adenosine with at least one excipient acceptable for cosmetic application.

By D-panthenol is meant according to the present invention provitamin of pantothenic acid, also called provitamin B5. By extract of coleus is meant according to the present invention an extract of Coleus, preferably an extract of the species Coleus forskohlii. Preferably it is a root extract. According to another characteristic, an organic extract of Coleus, preferably Coleus roots, advantageously obtained, is advantageously obtained by a process comprising at least one extraction step with a solvent chosen from the group consisting of ethyl acetate and methanol. , ethanol and dichloromethane. The extraction process is advantageously described in patent application FR2650952. This patent also teaches that in the extracts of Coleus, in particular in the extracts of Coleus forskohlii (Syn.Coleus barbatus), substances having the carbon skeleton of labdans, and more specifically, that of 8,13-epoxylabd-14-en-11-one. In particular, the 1,6B, 9a-trihydro-7ssacetoxy or forskolin derivative, the extraction method of which has been described in the patent application, has been isolated. Hoechst FR-2,336,138. The derivative 1 ×, 7,9x-trihydroxy-68-acetoxy, or coleforsine (HOECHST, FR-2,364,211) and the derivative, 6BdShydroxy-78-acetoxy, or 9, have also been described and isolated. deoxyforskolin (HOECHST, EP-0 243 646). The coleus extract makes it possible to increase the pigmentation of the keratinous fibers, in particular the eyelashes.

By plant extract of witch hazel is preferably meant according to the present invention an extract of HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA, more preferably a dry extract of HAMAMELIS VIRGINIANA leaves. Said dry extract may for example be obtained by a process of extraction by countercurrent leaching (said sheets are previously macerated in ethanol solvent 35% V / V) followed by a filtration step, concentration in vacuo at low temperature, drying by zeodration or atomization, grinding to obtain a particle size less than 500 pm and sieving.

By vegetable extract of horse chestnut is preferably meant according to the present invention an extract of AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM, more preferably a dry extract of bark AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM. Said dry extract may for example be obtained by a countercurrent leaching extraction method (said barks are previously macerated in water) followed by a filtration step, concentration under vacuum at low temperature, drying by zeodration or atomization, grinding to obtain a particle size less than 500 lm, then sieving. The term "nettle plant extract" is preferably intended to denote, according to the present invention, an extract of URTICA DIOICA, more preferably a dry extract of leaves of URTICA DIOICA. Said dry extract may for example be obtained by a process of extraction by countercurrent leaching (ledites leaves are previously macerated in purified water) followed by a filtration step, concentration under vacuum at low temperature, drying by zeodration or atomization, grinding to obtain a particle size less than 500 microns and then sieving.

By plant extract of apple is preferably meant according to the present invention an extract of PYRUS MALUS, more preferably a dry extract of PYRUS MALUS fruit. Said dry extract may for example be obtained by a process of extraction by countercurrent leaching (said fruits are previously macerated in water V / V) followed by a filtration step, concentration under vacuum at 30 ° C. low temperature, drying by zeodration or atomization, grinding to obtain a particle size less than 500 microns and sieving. The term "plant extract of St. John's wort" is preferably intended to denote, according to the present invention, an extract of HYPERICUM PERFORATUM, more preferably a dry extract of flowered top of HYPERICUM PERFORATUM. Said dry extract may, for example, be obtained by a countercurrent leaching extraction process (said flowering tops are first macerated in water V / V) followed by a filtration step, concentration under vacuum at low temperature, drying by zeodration or atomization, grinding to obtain a particle size of less than 500 gm and then sieving. The term "red clover flower extract" is intended to mean, according to the present invention, the term "TRIFOLIUM PRATENSE extract", more preferably an extract of the whole plant except the part in the soil of TRIFOLIUM PRATENSE. Said extract may for example be obtained by a countercurrent leaching extraction method (said plant is previously macerated in water V / V) followed by a filtration step, and concentration in vacuo at room temperature. low temperature.

The plant extracts according to the invention can be obtained by any method well known to those skilled in the art in view of his general knowledge, and adapted to use of the extract thus obtained in a cosmetic composition. By hydrolysed sericin is meant according to the present invention Sericin 20 hydrolysed silk glycoprotein, preferably used in aqueous solution with phenoxyethanol and ethylhexylglycerin. By nano-encapsulated adenosine in liposomes is meant according to the present invention adenosine encapsulated in liposomes having a diameter of between 100 and 300 nm. Said liposomes consist of lecithin, butylene glycol and water, and are produced according to the process described in patent document EP0211042. Each liposome contains between 1 and 5% of Adenosine. preferably 2% of adenosine.

Preferably, according to the invention, in the case of a composition comprising water, the extracts (by this term means the extracts of coleus and / or vegetable extract of witch hazel, and / or vegetable extract of horse chestnuts, and / or plant extract of St. John's Wort, and / or plant extract of nettle, and / or vegetable apple extract) are encapsulated in liposomes. Preferably they are encapsulated in liposomes having a diameter of 100 to 10,000 nm, preferably 100 to 300 nm. Said liposomes are preferably composed of lecithin, glycerin and water, and can be produced for example according to the process described in patent document EP0211042. Each liposome contains between 0.01 and 5% extracts, preferably from 0.05% to 1% by weight, more preferably a total of 0.06% extracts. Particularly preferably, each liposome contains: Coleus extract, 0.001% witch hazel plant extract, 0.01% horse chestnut vegetable extract, 0.01% St. John's wort plant extract, 0.005% nettle plant extract , 0.001% apple plant extract, 0.005% Liposomes make it possible to protect the extracts from the water present in the composition.

The compositions may also include acceptable additives for cosmetic use. In particular, the so-called "day" composition according to the invention may also comprise a dyestuff such as pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes. This dyestuff may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% by weight to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Mention may be made, among inorganic pigments, of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pearlescent agents may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. Liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, F3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 7 3034014 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, disodium salt of culvert, sodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth, di-sodium salt. tartrazine, monosodium rhodamine salt, disodium fuchsin salt, xanthophyll. The compositions according to the invention may further comprise a filler. The fillers may be selected from those well known to those skilled in the art and commonly used in cosmetic compositions. The fillers may be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide powders such as nylon (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-P-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders such as Teflon may be mentioned. lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, expanded polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as ExpanceL (No-bel Industrie), acrylic powders such as polytrap ( Dow Corning), polymethyl methacrylate particles and silicone resin microspheres (eg Toshiba's Tospearls), precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, microspheres hollow silicates (SILICA BEADS from MAPRECOS), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, by e Examples are zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate and magnesium myristate. The fillers can represent from 0.1 to 25% by weight, and better still from 1 to 20% by weight, by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, preservatives, fibers, perfumes, neutralizers, gelling agents, thickeners, vitamins, coalescing agents, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents. As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as that, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS.

It is also possible to mention fumed silica optionally treated with a hydrophobic surface, the particle size of which is less than 1 .mu.m. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-0-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as Silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (heme edition, 1995).

They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972, and Aerosil R974 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E. - 506C by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT 25 INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular CI to C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type, such as those marketed under the name denomination Kraton by the company Shell Chemical Co. or else type 9 3034014 polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene), mixtures of triblock copolymers and radial (star) in isododecane such as those marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

By "fiber" it is necessary to understand an object of length L and diameter D such that L is much greater than D, where D is the diameter of the circle in which the section of the fiber is inscribed. In particular, the L / D ratio (or form factor) is chosen in the range from 3.5 to 2500, preferably from 5 to 500, and more preferably from 5 to 150. In particular, the fibers have a length ranging from from 1 micron to 10 mm, preferably from 0.1 mm to 5 mm and better still from 0.3 mm to 3 mm. The fibers that can be used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from rigid or non-rigid fibers, they may be of synthetic or natural, mineral or organic origin. Fibers useful in the composition according to the invention include non-rigid fibers such as polyamide fibers (nylon) or rigid fibers such as polyimide-amide fibers 20 such as those sold under the name "KERMEL" "," KERMEL TECH "by the company Rhodia or poly- (p-phenylene terephthalamide) (or aramid) sold especially under the name Kevlar by the company DuPont de Nemours. The fibers may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The preservatives used in the compositions according to the invention may be, for example, phenoxyethanol and / or sodium dehydroacetate. The nature and amount of these adjuvants may be chosen by those skilled in the art, on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to obtain the desired presentation form for the compositions according to the invention, and according to whether it is is a composition called "day" or a composition called "night". In any case, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any possible additional compounds and / or their amount, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged. The compositions which can be used according to the invention may contain other hydrophilic cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agents such as proteins or protein hydrolysates, amino acids, polyols, urea, allantoin, sugars and sugar derivatives. water-soluble vitamins, and plant extracts. As lipophilic cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agents, it is possible to use retinol (vitamin A) and its derivatives, tocopherol (vitamin E) and its derivatives, essential fatty acids, ceramides, and its derivatives.

Preferably, the so-called "night" composition according to the invention is not pigmented. The so-called "day" composition can be pigmented. Preferably, the so-called "day" composition according to the invention is not pigmented. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are non-rinsed compositions.

Effective amounts of the compounds of the compositions according to the invention may be determined by those skilled in the art but may vary depending on the compound used, the frequency of application and the desired result. An amount of a compound or compounds will generally range from about 0.0000001 to about 10 percent by weight of the dermatological composition, preferably from about 0.0001 to about 10 percent by weight of the composition. In a preferred manner according to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises between 0% and 0.1% by weight of the N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, and / or between 0% and 0.1% by weight of the peptide. N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, and / or between 0 and 5% by weight Dpanthenol, and / or between 0 and 2% by weight of an extract of Coleus, and / or between Oet 2% by weight of a vegetable extract of witch hazel, and / or between 0 and 2% by weight of a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, and / or between 0 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of St. John's Wort, and / or between 0 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of nettle, and / or between 0 and 30% by weight of a plant extract of apple, and / or between 0 and 0.1% by weight hydrolyzed Sericin, and / or between 0 and 2% of a red clover flower extract, and / or between 0% and 0.1% by weight of adenosine, or preferably between 0 and 5% d adenosine nanoencapsulated in liposomes (it being understood that this is the weight of the liposome, comprising between 0% and 0.1% by weight of the final composition adenosine).

More preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises between 0.0000001% and 0.1% by weight of the N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, between 0.0000001% and 0.1% by weight of the N peptide. -palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, between 0.1 and 5% by weight D-panthenol, between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of an extract of Coleus, and / or between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a vegetable extract of witch hazel, and / or between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, and / or between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of St. John's Wort, and / or between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of nettle, and / or between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of apple, and or between 0.00001 and 0.1% by weight of the hydrolyzed Sericin, and / or between 0 and 2% of a red clover flower extract and / or between 0.0000001% and 0.1% by weight. weight of adenosine, or preferably between 1 and 5% by weight of adenosine nano-encapsulated in liposomes (it being understood that it is the weight of liposomes ome, comprising between 0.0000001% and 0.1% by weight of the final composition of adenosine) ...

Preferably said Coleus extract is between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight of the composition. Preferably, said vegetable extract of witch hazel is between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight of the composition.

Preferably, said vegetable extract of horse chestnut is between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight of the composition. Preferably, said plant extract of St. John's wort is between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight of the composition. Preferably said nettle plant extract is between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight of the composition. Preferably said red clover flower extract is between 0.001 and 0.1% by weight of the composition. Even more preferably, the so-called "day" cosmetic composition further comprises an emollient between 0.1 and 1% by weight of the composition. For example, methyl gluceth 20 may be mentioned. The emollient makes it possible to effectively lighten the eyelash with the composition. Even more preferably, the so-called "day" cosmetic composition further comprises a gelling agent between 0.1 and 1% by weight of the composition. For example, there may be mentioned the acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone ammonium polymer. The gelling agent allows rapid drying of the eyelash and rapid application of mascara over said composition when applied to the eyelash.

Preferably, the compositions according to the invention further comprise water (QSP). And preferably further comprises glycerin between 0.1 and 10% by weight of the composition. The so-called "day" compositions preferably comprise between 0.5 and 2%, more preferably 1% of glycerine. The so-called "night" compositions preferably comprise between 5 and 10%, preferably 6% glycerine.

In a preferred manner according to the invention, the so-called "day" cosmetic composition may be an eyelash makeup composition, a base for makeup or care of the eyelashes (or base coat), a colored or transparent composition for applying to a mascara. , also called top-coat, or else a transparent or colored composition for the treatment or cosmetic care of the eyelashes. In a particularly preferred manner according to the invention, the composition is a makeup base. In particular, such a makeup base has the advantage of improving the holding of the mascara deposited from above and of protecting the lashes of this mascara and the makeup remover which will be used for removing it, and also protecting the lashes from external aggressions (UV , pollution).

For a mascara application, the so-called "day" composition of the invention may be a wax-in-water or wax-in-oil dispersion, a gelled oil, an aqueous gel, pigmented or otherwise.

In a preferred manner according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention are in the form of a solution, a gel, a mousse, a cream, a serum, a wax, an oil-in-water emulsion ..., in particular in the case of cosmetic compositions for use on the eyelashes, compositions adapted to a peri-ocular application.

Preferably, according to the invention, the compositions are used to induce and / or stimulate the growth of human keratin fibers, preferably eyelashes, and / or to slow down their fall and / or to increase their density.

According to the present invention, the term "keratinous fibers" is intended to mean, in particular, human keratin fibers, preferably eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, beard hair, pubic hair, hair, even more preferentially eyelashes. Indeed, eyelashes have a life cycle shorter than hair and hair, which does not exceed a few months and are therefore the preferred target of cosmetic compositions to induce or stimulate their growth and / or curb their fall and / or increase their density. By inducing or stimulating the growth of keratin fibers, the term "design" according to the present invention means an increase in the length and / or an increase in the diameter of said keratin fiber. By stimulating growth, according to the present invention, it is also intended to prolong the growth phase (Anagen), and / or to shorten the inactivity phase (telogen), in particular by stimulating a follicle of dormant keratin fiber (telogen phase) with to pass more quickly in phase of growth (phase Anagen). This makes it possible to limit the fall and to guarantee a stronger anchoring of the keratinous fibers.

Indeed, if one takes the example of the eyelash which is the preferred embodiment of the invention, it is composed of a root below the surface of the skin, wrapped in a follicle. The end is anchored in the ciliary bulb. It is from this bulb and more precisely from the dermal papilla that it contains, that the eyelash is nourished and that the life cycle of the eyelash is set in motion. Three phases of the life cycle of the eyelash have been identified: - a first phase of growth lasting one to three months, during which the dermal papilla nourishes the eyelash that is growing longer. (Anagen phase) - a second, relatively short transition phase during which the eyelash no longer grows because the dermal papilla detaches from it. (Catagen Phase) - a third phase of inactivity during which the eyelash stays in place and then falls, reaching the end of its life cycle, and is replaced by a new eyelash. This inactivity phase lasts between 4 and 9 months. 60 to 80% by weight of the eyelashes are normally in the inactivity phase. (Telogen phase) By braking the fall and / or increasing the density of the keratinous fibers is meant according to the present invention an increase in the number of keratin fibers 14 3034014 on the same area. Indeed, it is by having the maximum of keratinous fibers outside at the same time and as long as possible that one gets a better density. According to the invention the compositions are used to improve the state and / or appearance of the keratinous fibers. In particular, it is intended to improve the state and / or the appearance of the keratin fibers by increasing the gloss, a thicker and / or darker appearance. In the particular case of eyelashes, a more curved appearance is also noted. Preferably, the composition is used to increase the pigmentation of keaatin fibers, in particular to darken said keratinous fibers optionally by increasing the amount of melanin produced by the melanocytes in said keratinous fibers. The increase in pigmentation can be measured by any method known to those skilled in the art by virtue of their general knowledge, in particular by using the methods as described and exemplified in the patent application WO9102516, or by evaluation of the coloring. eyelashes of the upper eyelid by an evaluator using scores, preferably on subjects with clear eyelashes (no change score 0, moderate increase score 1, significant increase score 2).

Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes, in which a combination of two cosmetic compositions is applied to the keratin fibers and / or the skin from which said fibers emerge. "Day" and "night" according to the invention, preferably in a manner spread over time.

By "skin from which said fibers emerge" is meant for example designate according to the present invention the scalp in the case where the keratinous fibers are hair, the base of the eyelid in the case where the keratinous fibers are eyelashes.

In particular, in the case where the keratinous fibers are eyelashes, the composition according to the invention can be applied to the skin at the base of the eyelid where the eyelashes develop from the ciliary follicles (flush with the line of the eyelids). eyelashes). The composition can also be applied to the eyelashes themselves, the composition migrating along the eyelash will come into contact with the ciliary follicle. For best efficacy, it is preferred to apply directly to the skin at the ciliary follicle, hence at the base of the eyelid. It is even more preferred an application on the skin at the level of the ciliary follicle, associated with an application on the eyelashes. Indeed, in the particular case of the composition called "day" where there is no subsequent application of mascara this allows an immediate diffusion combined with diffusion spread over time of the composition and protection of the eyelash attacks outside during the day (pollution, UV), and in the case where there is a posterior application of mascara, this allows an immediate diffusion combined with a protection of the eyelash with respect to the mascara, the removal of make-up of said mascara and the external aggressions in the day 10 (pollution, UV). In a preferred manner according to the invention, the composition may be applied with an applicator such as a mascara brush, a foam end, a mixed applicator a mascara brush and a foam tip, an applicator with a fine brush tip or with the finger. Preferably, the so-called "day" composition is applied with a mixed applicator having a mascara brush and a foam tip at the tip to facilitate the deposit of the cosmetic composition at the root of the eyelashes and therefore at the level of the ciliary follicle, and the composition known as "Night" is applied with an applicator with fine tip type brush or foam tip to facilitate the deposition of the cosmetic composition at the root of the eyelashes and therefore at the level of the ciliary follicles. Preferably, the cosmetic treatment process for the keratinous fibers and / or the skin from which said fibers emerge comprises the application in the day, preferably in the morning, on said keratinous fibers and / or the skin from which they emerge. Said fibers of a so-called "day" cosmetic composition according to the present invention, and the evening application, preferably after makeup removal on said keratinous fibers and / or skin from which said fibers emerge from a cosmetic composition said "night" according to the present invention.

Preferably, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention comprises a daily application, at least once a day, preferentially in the morning of said so-called "day" composition according to the invention and a daily application, at least once per day. day, preferably in the evening, preferably after makeup removal of said so-called "night" composition according to the invention.

Preferably, the cosmetic treatment process consists of a daily application in the morning of the composition called "day" and the evening of the so-called "night" composition, for at least 15 days, preferably at least one month, of preferably at least 8 weeks. Preferably, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention comprises a daily application in the morning of the composition called "day" and the evening of the composition called "night", without rinsing, the compositions being left in contact with said ketatinic fibers and / or skin from which said keratinous fibers emerge. In the case where the keratinous fibers are eyelashes, the so-called "day" cosmetic composition can be applied alone or in undercoat of a mascara. Another object of the invention is a kit comprising 1. A so-called "day" container delimiting at least one so-called "day" compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and 2. A so-called "day" cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 6 disposed within said so-called "day" compartment; and 3.. A so-called "night" container delimiting at least one so-called "night" compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and 4. A cosmetic composition called "night" according to claims 1 to 6 disposed within said compartment called "night". Additionally, the kit according to the invention further comprises at least one applicator, preferably two applicators: a so-called "day" applicator, preferably said "day" applicator having a mascara brush and a foam tip and an applicator said "night" preferably said applicator said "night" having a fine tip brush type.

The compositions according to the invention may be packaged in two so-called "day" and "night" containers delimiting each at least one so-called "day" compartment and a "night" compartment, the "day" compartment in the "day" container. comprising the composition "day" and the compartment "night" in the container "night" comprising the composition "night", each container being closed by a closure member. It is also possible for a single container to comprise two compartments, a "day" comprising the "day" composition and a "night" compartment comprising the "night" composition. Each container is preferably associated with an applicator, even though one and the same applicator can be used for both "day" and "night" compositions. Preferably, the applicator has a mascara brush and a foam tip at the tip. The mascara brush may for example comprise an arrangement of bristles held by a twisted wire. Such a twisted brush is described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,887,622. It may also be in the form of a comb 10 comprising a plurality of application elements, obtained in particular by molding. Such combs are described, for example, in patent FR 2 796 529. The applicator may be integral with the receptacle, as described, for example, in patent FR 2 761 959. Advantageously, the applicator is secured to a rod which, itself, is integral with the closure element.

The closure member may be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure member and the container is other than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, snap-fastening, or clamping. By "latching" is meant in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a bead of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closure element, then by return to the position not elastically constrained of said portion after crossing the bead or cord. The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. Examples of thermoplastic materials include polypropylene or polyethylene. Alternatively, the container is made of non-thermoplastic material, in particular glass or metal (or alloy). Each container is preferably equipped with a wiper arranged in the vicinity of the opening of the container. Such a wiper makes it possible to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod which it can be secured. Such a wiper is described, for example, in patent FR 2 792 618. The following examples provide compositions according to the invention. All percentages of ingredients in the compositions should be read as% by weight of the composition. Example 1: "Day" skincare composition for eyelashes: Ingredients Quantities Panthenol 0.5% N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% Liposome of nanoencapsulated extracts * 2.5% Hydrolyzed sericin 0.0001% Neutral base (water / glycerin) QSP100.00% * Liposomes include (by weight of the final composition): - Coleus extract, 0.001% - vegetable extract of witch hazel, 0.01% 15 - vegetable extract of horse chestnut, 0.01% - plant extract of St. John's Wort, 0.005% - plant extract of nettle, 0.001% - vegetable extract of apple, 0.005% 20 This treatment is applied to eyelashes like a classic mascara with an applicator comprising a mascara brush, with a foam tip at the tip to facilitate the application to the level of the eyelashes on the skin at the level of the ciliary follicles. Example 2: Ingredients Quantities Panthenol 0.5% N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% Liposome of nanoencapsulated extracts * 2.5% hydrolyzed sericin 0.0001% ammonium polymer acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone 0.2% 19 3034014 sodium dehydroacetate 0.1% neutral base (water / glycerine) QSP100.00% * liposomes include (by weight of final composition): Coleus extract, 0.001% witch hazel plant extract, 0.01% horse chestnut vegetable extract, 0.01% St. John's wort plant extract, 0.005% nettle plant extract, 0.001% 10 apple plant extract, 0.005% This treatment is applied on the eyelashes like a classic mascara with an applicator including a mascara brush, with a foam tip at the end to facilitate the application at the level of the eyelashes on the skin at the level of the follicles ciliary.

Example 3: Day care composition for eyebrows and eyelashes: Ingredient amount Panthenol 0.5% N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-peptide Pro-Arg 0.00001% Liposome of Nanoencapsulated Extracts * 2.5% Sericin Hydrolyzed 0.0001% 25 Sodium Chloride 0.877% Citric Acid 0.030% Phenoxyethanol 0.300% Chlorinated Sine 0.300% Disodium Phosphate 0.142% 30 Alcohol 0.216% Gum of cellulose 0.300% Ethylhexylglycerine 0.01% Water qs 100.00% 3034014 * The liposomes comprise (by weight of the final composition): Coleus extract, 0.001% vegetable extract of witch hazel, 0.01% vegetable extract of brown of India, 0.01% 5 St. John's wort plant extract, 0.005% nettle plant extract, 0.001% apple plant extract, 0.005% This treatment applies to the eyebrows and eyelashes as a conventional mascara with a 10 applicator includes a mascara brush, with a foam end tip to facilitate application eyelashes and eyebrows on the skin at the ciliary follicles. Example 4: composition of mascara wax / water "day" for the eyelashes: Ingredient Quantity Beeswax 6.00% - Paraffin wax 13.00% Hydrogenated jojoba oil 2.00% Water-soluble film-forming polymer 3.00 % Triethanolamine Stearate 8.00% Black Pigment 5.00% Panthenol 0.020 N-Palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% Coleus extract 0.001% vegetable extract of witch hazel 0.001% vegetable extract of horse chestnut 0.001% vegetable extract of St. John's wort 0.001% 30 nettle vegetable extract 0.001% vegetable extract of apple 0.001% Hydrolyzed sericine 0.0001% Phenoxyethanol 0, 1% Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1% 21 3034014 Water qs 100.00% This mascara is applied to eyelashes like a classic mascara with a mascara brush.

Example 5: "Day" care composition for eyelashes Ingredient Quantity Panthenol 0.5% N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% Coleus extract, 0.001% witch hazel plant extract, 0.01% horse chestnut extract, 0.01% 15 St. John's wort plant extract, 0.005% nettle plant extract, 0.001% plant extract of apple, 0.005% Hydrolyzed sericin 0.0001% Glycerin 3% Methyl gluceth 20 0.5% Polymer ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone 0.2% Ethanol 0.2% Lecithin 0.2% 25 Butylene glycol 0.2 % Maltodextrin 0.05% Carbomer 0.05% Polysorbate 20 0.05% Citric acid 0.030 Ethylhexylglycerine 0.05% Dextran 0.05% Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1% Water qs 100.00% 22 3034014 This treatment applies on the eyelashes like a classic mascara with an applicator including a mascara brush, with a foam tip at the end to facilitate the application at the level of the eyelashes on the skin at the level of the foll ciliary cells.

Example 6: "Night" care composition for the eyelashes: This treatment is applied in the evening to the level of the eyelashes on the skin at the level of the ciliary follicles.

Ingredient Amount N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% Liposome of nanoencapsulated extracts * 2.5% nano-encapsulated adenosine in liposomes 2% (0.001% adenosine) red clover flower extract 0.001% Neutral base serum (water / glycerin) QSP100.00% * liposomes include (by weight of the final composition): Coleus extract, 0.001 % vegetable extract of witch hazel, 0.01% vegetable extract of horse chestnut, 0.01% plant extract of St. John's Wort, 0.005% nettle extract, 0.001% vegetable extract of apple, 0.005% night care for eyelashes: Ingredient Quantity N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% Liposome of nanoencapsulated extracts * 2.5% adenosine nano-encapsulated in liposomes 2% (0.001% adenosine) Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate and vinylpyrrolidone polymer 0.2% Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1% Phenoxyethanol 0.1% red clover flower extract 0.001% Neutral base serum (water / glycerin) QSP100.00% * Liposomes include (by weight of the final composition): Coleus extract, 0.001% plant extract witch hazel, 0.01% horse chestnut extract, 0.01% St. John's wort vegetable extract, 0.005% nettle extract, 0.001% 15 apple plant extract, 0.005% This treatment is applied at night eyelashes on the skin at the ciliary follicles. Example 8: "Night" care composition for eyelashes: Ingredient Amount N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% extract red clover blossom 0.001% 25 Coleus extract, 0.001% witch hazel plant extract, 0.001% chestnut vegetable extract, 0.001% St. John's wort plant extract, 0.001% nettle plant extract, 0.001% 30 plant extract of apple, 0.001% adenosine nano-encapsulated in liposomes 2.5% (0.001% adenosine) Ethanol 0.2% Lecithin 0.2% Butylene glycol 0.2% 24 3034014 Maltodextrin 0.05% Carbomer 0.05% Polysorbate 20 0.05% citric acid 0.030 Ethylhexylglycerine 0.05% Dextran 0.05% Sodium dehydroacetate 0.1% Water qs 100.00% 10 This treatment is applied at night close to the eyelashes on the skin in the follicles ciliary. Example 9: "Night" care composition for eyelashes: Ingredient Quantity N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, 0.00001% N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide 0.00001% extract of Coleus, 0.001% vegetable extract of witch hazel, 0.01% vegetable extract of horse chestnut, 0.01% 20 vegetable extract of St. John's Wort, 0.005% vegetable extract of nettle, 0.001% vegetable extract of apple, 0.005% red clover flower extract 0.001% adenosine nano-encapsulated in liposomes 2.5% (0.001% adenosine) sodium chloride 0.877% citric acid 0.030% phenoxyethanol 0.300% chlorphenesin 0.300% disodium phosphate 0.142% alcohol 0.216% la cellulose gum 0.300% Ethylhexylglycerine 0.05% Water qs 100.00% 5 25 3034014 This treatment is applied in the evening at the level of the eyelashes on the skin at the level of the ciliary follicles. Example 10: Consumer test A study (consumer test) on 27 female subjects was conducted. The conditions of the study are a daily application for 46 days, the morning of the composition as described in Example 1, with an applicator comprising a mascara brush and a foam tip at the end of the stem and the evening of the composition as described in Example 6. The subjects self-assess at 15, 28 and 46 days. The results after 46 days are presented below: percentage of women who responded positively to the following 10 statements: - Eyelashes prettier: 89% - (Fringe of) lashes more dense: 85% - Eyelashes sheathed: 85% - Lashes fall less: 93% 15 - Look more intense: 84% - Eyelashes thicker: 81% - Eyelashes longer: 78% - Lashes more numerous: 74% - Curved eyelashes: 58% 20 - Eyelashes darker: 64% Example 11: Clinical trial A clinical study was performed on 30 female subjects for 8 weeks with daily application on the morning of the composition as described in Example 1, with an applicator comprising a mascara brush and a foam tip at the end of the stem and the evening of the composition as described in Example 6. In the context of this clinical study, the results mentioned below are for the eyelashes are located in the inner sector of the eyelash fringe (the area closest to the nose, the eyelash fringe being divided into 3 sectors) 26 3034014 At TO, the average length of the eyelashes is measured in the subjects of the study. The average length thus measured is 5.6 mm. It is observed after 8 weeks that 26 subjects show an increase in the average length of the eyelashes. 4 subjects do not show a significant increase in eyelash length. The mean increase in eyelash length in the 26 study subjects with an increase in eyelash length was 2.4 mm / eyelash, an average increase of 44%. A maximum increase of 5 mm is observed in one subject of the study. 10 27

Claims (10)

REVENDICATIONS1. Kit comprising 1. A cosmetic composition called "day" characterized in that it comprises at least the peptide N-palmytoyl Gly-His-Lys the peptide N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, D-panthenol, an extract of Coleus, a plant extract of witch hazel, a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, a plant extract of St. John's wort, a plant extract of nettle, a plant extract of apple, hydrolyzed Sericin, with at least one excipient acceptable for cosmetic application; and 2. A so-called "night" cosmetic composition, characterized in that it comprises at least the N-palmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, the N-palmytoyl-PalGly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide, an extract of Coleus , a plant extract of witch hazel, a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, a plant extract of St. John's Wort, a plant extract of nettle, a plant extract of apple, a red clover flower extract, and adenosine with at least one excipient acceptable for cosmetic application. 2. Kit according to claim 1 characterized in that the so-called "day" composition further comprises an emollient and a gelling agent. 3. Kit according to claim 1 characterized in that the so-called "day" and "night" compositions comprise between 0.0000001% and 0.1% by weight of the Npalmytoyl-Gly-His-Lys peptide, between 0.0000001% and 0.1% by weight of the N-palmytoyl-Pal-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg peptide, between 0.1 and 5% by weight D-panthenol, between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of an extract of Coleus between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a vegetable extract of witch hazel, between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a vegetable extract of horse chestnut, between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of St. John's Wort, between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of nettle, between 0.00001 and 2% by weight of a plant extract of apple, between 0.00001 and 0, 1% by weight of hydrolysed Sericin, between 0.0000001% and 0.1% by weight of adenosine, preferably nano-encapsulated adenosine in liposomes, and between 0 and 2% of a flower extract red clover ,. 5 4. Kit according to claims 1 to 3 characterized in that the so-called "day" composition is in the form of a care product and / or makeup of keratinous fibers including human, preferably eyelashes and that the composition called "day" nuit "» is in the form of a skincare product for human keratin fibers, preferably eyelashes. 10 5. Kit according to claims 1 to 4 for use in inducing and / or stimulating the growth of particularly human keratinous fibers, preferably eyelashes and / or curb their fall and / or increase their density. 6. Kit according to claims 1 to 5 for its use to increase the pigmentation of keratin fibers, especially human, preferably eyelashes. 7. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers and / or the skin from which said fibers emerge, comprising the application in the day, preferably in the morning, on said keratinous fibers and / or the skin from which these fibers emerge. a so-called "day" cosmetic composition as defined in claims 1 to 6, and the application in the evening, preferably after makeup removal on said keratinous fibers and / or the skin from which said fibers of a composition emerge cosmetic called "night" as defined in claims 1 to 6. 8. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 7, characterized in that the application of the composition called "day" is daily, at least once a day, preferably in the morning, and that the application of the composition called "night" Is daily, at least once a day, preferably in the evening. 29 3034014 9. Kit comprising: 1. A container called "day" delimiting at least one compartment said container being closed by a closure element; and 2. A so-called "day" cosmetic composition according to claims 1 to 6 disposed within said so-called "day" compartment; and 3.. A so-called "night" container delimiting at least one compartment, said container being closed by a closure element; and 4. A cosmetic composition called "night" according to claims 1 to 6 disposed within said compartment called "night". 10 10. Kit according to claim 9 characterized in that it further comprises an applicator said "day", preferably said applicator said "day" having a mascara brush and a foam tip and an applicator said "night" preferably said applicator said "night" with a fine tip brush type. 1530