FR3027225A1 - SILICONE ELASTOMER AND WATER-SOLUBLE COMPOUND IN OILY PHASE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing an oily phase, said oily phase comprising (i) at least one silicone elastomer present in water droplets dispersed in said oily phase, (ii) at least one polyglyceryl silicone surfactant HLB greater than or equal to 8, and (iii) at least one water-soluble compound, said compound being conveyed within the water droplets of the aqueous elastomer dispersion (i). The present invention furthermore relates to a process for the preparation of said cosmetic composition and to a process for making up and / or caring for a keratin material, comprising a step of applying said composition.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of care and / or makeup of keratin materials. There are many cosmetic products on the market in the form of a simple oily phase, such as scented oils, massage oils, oils used for their emollient and moisturizing properties, or even solar oils. These oils can easily be supplemented with fat-soluble active ingredients, such as skin care actives, filters or dyes. On the other hand, this is much less immediate for active or water-soluble compounds, given the lack of affinity of these compounds for an oil. This difficulty is conventionally overcome according to two embodiments. The first variant consists in transporting these water-soluble compounds in an aqueous phase which is then combined with the oily phase in question, to form an emulsion or a dispersion. However, this form of formulation generally requires a significant aqueous phase proportion to access a stable composition with the immediate consequence of an alteration of the properties conferred by the oily phase. The second variant consists in formulating the water-soluble compounds in the oily phase by encapsulating them. For obvious reasons, the production of capsules is not immediate or is complicated. Moreover, their homogeneous and stable dispersion requires an adapted oily phase. There remains therefore a need for a simple and fast way to formulate in a stable and homogeneous manner, one or more water-soluble compounds in an oily phase and which does not affect the properties conferred by the oily phase. Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it is possible to obtain a homogeneous dispersion of a water-soluble compound in an oily phase, provided that the use of an aqueous suspension of at least one elastomer of silicone and a specific surfactant.

Thus according to one of its aspects, the present invention relates to a particularly cosmetic composition, comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one oily phase, said oily phase comprising: (i) at least one silicone elastomer present in water droplets dispersed in said oily phase, (ii) at least one polyglycerylated silicone surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8, and (iii) at least one water-soluble compound, said compound being conveyed within the water droplets of the aqueous dispersion of elastomer (i). The oily phase of the composition according to the invention is advantageously its external phase. It is recalled that silicone elastomers are already known for their ability to thicken an oily phase. However, in general, these elastomers are offered by the suppliers, most often in the form of pre-dispersions in volatile or non-volatile oils which are introduced into the oily phases of the products during their manufacture. As a result, they can not be suitable for the formulation of water-soluble compounds. It should be noted that the compositions described in documents EP 1 736 138, EP 1 946 799 and US 7 709 013 are precisely products in which the silicone elastomer in question has been introduced according to this technology, that is to say say in the form of an oily gel. Unexpectedly, the inventors have now discovered that an aqueous suspension of a silicone elastomer can effectively act as a carrier for one or more water-soluble active agents, within an oily phase, provided that it is combined with this aqueous suspension. of elastomer a surfactant according to the invention. The aqueous phase conveying the elastomer and the water-soluble compound (s) is homogeneously dispersed and stabilized within the oily phase by virtue of the simultaneous presence of at least one polyglyceryl silicone silicone surfactant with a HLB greater than or equal to 8. This The result is all the more surprising since this family of surfactants is generally considered to stabilize oil-in-water type emulsions and therefore of architecture very different from that considered according to the invention which favors a continuous oily phase.

In addition and against all odds, the introduction of this or these water-soluble compounds, even in a significant amount, within the aqueous phase of the aqueous elastomer suspension does not affect the dispersion thereof, in the state of droplets stabilized in the oily phase. As is apparent from the examples below, the combination proposed according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous and stable distribution of a water-soluble compound in any oily phase, without requiring the presence of a significant quantity of water which would have the immediate effect of affecting the properties sought by the implementation of an oily phase.

The subject of the invention is also a process for makeup and / or care of a keratinous material and in particular the skin, comprising a step of applying a composition according to the invention. Keratin material is particularly covered keratin fibers such as hair and eyelashes.

By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, including the lips, and preferably the skin of the face, neck and décolleté. The invention also relates to a method for preparing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising at least: a step of introducing at least one silicone elastomer in aqueous suspension into an oily phase, and a step of introduction of at least one polyglyceryl silicone silicone surfactant greater than or equal to 8 in an oily phase, the two steps of introduction being simultaneous or consecutive, said aqueous suspension of silicone elastomer containing, in addition, at least one compound water-soluble. According to a preferred embodiment, the step of introducing the aqueous elastomer suspension containing at least one water-soluble compound into the oily phase is carried out after the step of introducing at least one surfactant in accordance with the invention. In this oil phase, water-soluble compounds are understood to mean a compound having a solubility in water, measured at 25 ° C., of at least 0.01 g / l (obtaining a macroscopically isotropic solution). and transparent, colored or not).

As explained above, this or these compounds are conveyed within the oily phase, through the water droplets of the aqueous suspension of an elastomer, these droplets being homogeneously dispersed and stabilized in the oily phase by means of the simultaneous presence in this phase of a polyglyceryl silicone silicone surfactant greater than or equal to 8.

This or these water-soluble compounds are therefore advantageously in a form solubilized in the oily phase and as such able to provide an immediate effect to the application during the rupture of the water droplets containing them. On the other hand, when the water-soluble compound or one of the water-soluble compounds is, for example, a water-soluble dye, its presence in the water droplets homogeneously dispersed in the oily phase, can confer on it an original and attractive aesthetic effect. . The water-soluble compounds that may be included in the composition according to the present invention may especially be chosen from compounds intended to confer a cosmetic property, such as a color contribution, a texture modification, a sunscreen, an improvement in the behavior, hydration of the skin, etc. By way of non-limiting illustration, water-soluble compounds that can be used in a composition according to the invention can thus be C1-C8 monoalcohols such as ethanol, polyols, polymers, active ingredients, filters, dyes and their mixtures. Among the polyols, mention may be made of glycols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as propane-1,2-diol, propane-1,3-diol, butane-1,2-diol, pentane-1,2-diol isoprene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and caprylyl glycol, polyethylene glycols, polyhydric alcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as glycerol. Among the water-soluble polymers of synthetic origin, examples that may be mentioned are homopolymers and copolymers of ethylene oxide; polyvinyl alcohols; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone; homopolymers and copolymers of vinylcaprolactam; homopolymers and copolymers of polyvinyl methyl ether; neutral acrylic homopolymers and copolymers; alkyl-C1-C2-celluloses and their derivatives; alkyl-C1-C3-guar or hydroxyalkyl-C1-C3-guar. Such polymers are in particular detailed in the FR 2 811 564 patent of L'Oreal. Among the water-soluble polymers of natural origin, mention may be made of optionally modified polymers of natural origin, such as gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, alginates, and carrageenans.

Among the water-soluble active agents, mention may be made of alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, beta-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its biologically compatible salts, components having a tensor effect, hydroxyl polyacids, sugars such as rhamnose and sucrose and its derivatives, urea and its derivatives such as hydroxyethyl urea, adenosine, amino acids, oligopeptides, water-soluble plant extracts, peptide or protein hydrolysates, hyaluronic acid and its salts, mucopolysaccharides, vitamins B2, B3, B6, B9, H, panthenol, allantoin, glycyrrhetic acid, kojic acid, flavonoids, anti-aging active agents such as hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol, jasmonic acid derivatives such as 4-hydroxy-sodium jasmonate, lightening active agents such as phenyl ethyl resorcinol. Among the water-soluble filters, mention may be made of the filter whose INCI name is Terephthalydene dicamphor sulfonic acid, sold under the reference Mexoryl SX by the company Chimex, and the filter whose INCI name is Phenylbenzimidazole sulphonic acid sold under the reference Eusolex 232 by the Merck company.

Among the water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange. 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, and riboflavin.

The water-soluble compounds are present in the composition of the invention in an amount of active material ranging from 0.0001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1% by weight. at 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The silicone elastomers considered according to the invention are present in the compositions in water droplets dispersed in the oily phase of this composition.

By "elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable material having viscoelastic properties and in particular the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. This elastomer is formed of high molecular weight polymer chains whose mobility is limited by a uniform network of crosslinking points. The silicone elastomers used in the composition according to the invention may be in the form of particles of at least one partially or totally crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer and of three-dimensional structure. They are particulate. They may be chosen especially from the crosslinked polymers described in US 5,928,660 from Dow Corning. According to this patent, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by addition reaction and crosslinking, in the presence of a catalyst, in particular of the platinum type, of at least: (a) an organopolysiloxane (i) having at least two vinyl groups in position ct-o) of the silicone chain per molecule; and (b) an organosiloxane (ii) having at least one hydrogen atom bonded to one silicon atom per molecule. The aqueous dispersion may in particular be obtained as follows: (a) a mixture of an organopolysiloxane (i) having at least two vinyl groups in the α-o) position of the silicone chain per molecule and an organosiloxane (ii) having at least a hydrogen atom bonded to one silicon atom per molecule; (b) adding a catalyst, particularly platinum; (c) adding an aqueous phase containing an emulsifier to form an emulsion; (d) polymerization of organopolysiloxane (i) and organosiloxane (ii) in emulsion in the presence of a catalyst. In particular, the organopolysiloxane (i) is chosen from α-dimethylvinylpolydimethyl siloxanes.

Reference may be made to FR 2 800 605 from L'OREAL for a detailed description of the process for producing these aqueous suspensions of silicone elastomers. The organopolysiloxane elastomer particles have a size ranging from 0.1 to 500 microns and better still from 3 to 200 microns. These particles may be spherical, flat or amorphous with, preferably, a spherical shape. These organopolysiloxane elastomer particles are stably dispersed in water using one or more nonionic, cationic or anionic emulsifiers of HLB greater than or equal to 8. The proportion of emulsifiers in the aqueous suspension ranges from preferably from 0.1 to 20 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of the aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane elastomer and better still from 0.5 to 10 parts by weight. Thus, the silicone elastomers contained within the water droplets dispersed in the oily phase of a composition according to the invention are present in a form associated with one or more surfactants.

These surfactants are different from the polyglyceryl silicone surfactant and HLB greater than or equal to 8 required in parallel according to the invention. According to a particular embodiment, the silicone elastomer, and its surfactants, are combined in a weight ratio expressed in dry weight elastomer / surfactant (s) ranging from 30 to 1000.

By the term "forms associated with", it is understood that the silicone elastomer and its associated surfactant (s), are not present separately in the oily phase of the composition of the invention. but are intimately associated with each other. This mode of association between said silicone elastomer and its surfactant or surfactants, is in particular in the image of that obtained at the end of the emulsion polymerization process generally considered to form a silicone elastomer. This process requires the presence of a surfactant to carry out the polymerization reaction and this surfactant remains present in an associated form at the silicone elastomer particles thus obtained. Such combinations of silicone elastomer with one or more surfactants also exist in commercially available forms of silicone elastomers in the form of aqueous suspensions or in a dry form as indicated in the INCI names of commercial products in particular. identified below. The surfactant associated with the silicone elastomer in the dispersed water droplets is preferably nonionic. The preferred nonionic surfactants are: oxyalkylenated fatty acid and glycerol esters (more particularly polyoxyethylenated); esters of oxyalkylenated fatty acids and of sorbitan; oxyalkylenated fatty acid esters (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated); and oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol ethers (oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated).

As nonionic surfactants that may be associated with the silicone elastomer, the surfactants sold under the trade names Tergitole TMN-6, Tergitole 15S40, Tergitole 15S3, Tergitole 15S5 and Tergitole 15S7 by Union Carbide Corporation may also be mentioned in particular. (Danbury, Conn.) And Brij and Brij 35 from ICI Chemicals (Wilmington, Del.); Triton® X405 from Riihm & Haas (Philadelphia, Penn.); Makon 10 from Stepan Company (Northfield, Ill.); Ethomid 0/17 from Akzo Inc. (Chicago, Ill.); and Pluronice F38 of BASF Corporation (Parsippany, N.J.). The nonionic surfactants are preferably C 10 -C 18 fatty polyoxy ethers, that is to say a polymer of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and of C 10 -C 18 fatty acids.

It is preferably a polymer of polyethylene glycol (PEG) and of C10-C18 fatty acids comprising from 4 to 12 OE units. Examples of nonionic surfactants that are particularly suitable are laureth-4e, laureth-12e and C12-C14 pareth-12e.

The aqueous suspensions of organopolysiloxane particles that are suitable for the preparation of the composition of the invention are, for example, those sold under the names BY 29-119, BY 29-122, BY 29-129 and DC 9509 by the name INCI US DIMETHIC ONE. / VINYL DIMETHIC ONE CRO S SPOLYMER AND C 12 -C 14 Pareth 12 by the company Dow Corning. These suspensions comprise about 63% by weight of organopolysiloxane elastomer particles (thus about 63% of active material) relative to their total weight.

Reference may also be made to the reference Gransil LTX, marketed by the company Grant Industries, whose INCI name is Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Polysilicone -11 (and) Water (and) Laureth-4 and whose content of organopolysiloxane elastomer particles is between 14 and 20 ° A. Finally, there is the reference Gransil EP-9, also sold by the company Grant Industries, whose INCI name is Polysilicone -11 (and) Water (and) Laureth-12 (and) Phenoxy ethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin whose rate of non-volatile material is between 59 and 62%. The silicone elastomer is advantageously present in the composition of the invention in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight. weight and even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. POLYGLYCERYLE SILICONE SURFACTANT As stated above, the silicone elastomer as defined above is present in the compositions according to the invention, together with at least one polyglyceryl silicone surfactant and HLB greater than or equal to 8. It is recalled that HLB (Hydrophilic-Lipophilic Balance) is understood to mean the balance between the size and the strength of the hydrophilic group and the size and the lipophilic group strength of the surfactant in question.

This HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256. Advantageously, this polyglyceryl silicone and HLB silicone surfactant greater than or equal to 8 corresponds to the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## If (CH) 33 (I) in which: - a varies from 1 to 1.4, b varies from 0.02 to 0.04 and c varies from 0.02 to 0.04, - Sx is the radical -O (CH 3) 25 10 -Si (CH 3) 3 and - Gly is a hydrocarbon radical chosen from glyceryl derivatives. Such compounds are in particular described in documents EP 1 213 316 and EP 1 640 040. More specifically, the glyceryl derivatives may be compounds of formulas as follows: ## STR2 ## in which: is a divalent radical selected from - (CH2) 2- and - (CH2) 3-, and - s and t are integers in the range of from 1 to 20, in particular from 1 to 15, in particular from 1 to at 10, and more particularly from 1 to 5.

Preferably, Gly may be represented by the radical - C3H6O [CH2-CH (OH) CH2O] H with n varying from 1 to 5. According to a preferred variant of the invention, the polyglycerylated silicone surfactant is a polyglyceryl dimethicone. -3 disiloxane, of formula (I) wherein: - Sx is the radical -O (CH3) 25iO-Si (CH3) 3, - Gly is the radical -C3H60 [CH2-CH (OH) CH2O] H with n varying from 1 to 5, and - a varies from 1 to 1.4, b varies from 0.02 to 0.04, and c varies from 0.02-0.04. Such a compound is especially marketed by the company SHIN-ETSU under the reference KF6100.® A composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise from 1 to% by weight, preferably from 4 to 10% by weight and even more preferably from 5 to 8% by weight of polyglyceryl silicone surfactant of HLB greater than or equal to 8 relative to the total weight of the composition. According to the invention, the weight ratio between the silicone elastomer (of active material) and the polyglyceryl silicone surfactant can advantageously have a value which varies from 0.01 to 6, preferably from 0.1 to 5, and still more preferably from 0.5 to 4. OIL PHASE As is apparent from the above, the present invention relates more particularly to cosmetic compositions having an oily phase and, more particularly, a continuous oily phase. This oily phase can be very varied in nature and its composition is generally adapted to the keratin target to which is dedicated the corresponding cosmetic composition, namely lips, skin or hair and the desired purpose namely makeup and / or care. For the purposes of the invention, an oily phase comprises at least one oil. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature at atmospheric pressure.

An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated or not, or mixtures thereof.

They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally include oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acidic radicals. The oils may be volatile or non-volatile. By "volatile oil" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa. at 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm). of Hg). Volatile oils Volatile oils may be hydrocarbon or silicone. Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may be made especially of C 8 -C 16 branched alkanes, for example C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane and the like. isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isohexadecane. It is also possible to mention volatile linear alkanes comprising from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane ( C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of WO 2008/155059 from Cognis, and mixtures thereof. Silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include linear silicone volatile oils such as hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane.

Cyclic silicone volatile oils that may be mentioned include hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Nonvolatile oils Nonvolatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, for example perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms; as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oil, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara oil , sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms, such as dicapryl ether, synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R 1 COOR 2, in which R 1 represents a resis of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is 10. The esters may be especially , chosen from fatty alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, palmitate, ethylene, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, octy1-2-dodecyl stearate, octy1-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearate isostearyl hydroxyl esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, ricinoleates of alcohols or polyhydric alcohols, hexyl laurate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols, esters of Neopentanoic acid, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, neopen octyldodecyl tanoate, esters of isononanoic acid, such as sononyl isononanoate, sotridecyl isononanoate, polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and sodium diisononanoate; diethylene glycol and the pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; - branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, alcohol isostearyl, oleic alcohol, and - C12-C22 higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof. Non-volatile silicone oils that may especially be mentioned include: non-phenylated silicone oils, for example dimethicones with a viscosity greater than or equal to 10 cSt, and alkyldimethicones such as caprylylmethicone, and phenylated silicone oils, for example phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane, and mixtures thereof; as well as the mixtures of these different oils.

A composition according to the invention may comprise from 5% to 95% by weight, better still from 5% to 40% by weight, preferably from 7% to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition. Advantageously, in the composition according to the invention, the oily phase (s) may comprise or consist of a silicone oil. Preferably, in the composition according to the invention, the proportion of the oily phase (s) may be from 3 to 98% by weight, preferably from 10 to 90% by weight, and preferably from 10 to 90% by weight. 20 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oily phase may further contain other fatty substances.

The other constituents that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids, hydrocarbon or non-hydrocarbon waxes, and silicone resins. These constituents may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the properties, for example of desired consistency or texture.

AQUEOUS PHASE A composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase constituted in whole or in part by the water carrying the silicone elastomer and which is dispersed in the oily phase thus forming the continuous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

This aqueous phase comprises at least the water of the aqueous dispersion of the elastomer required according to the invention, and at least one or more water-soluble compounds especially as detailed above. It may also contain additional water, floral water such as blueberry water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water. / or thermal water. The water provided by the aqueous suspension of silicone elastomer and that optionally added to this suspension may be present in a composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.02 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0, 25 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIVES In a known manner, the cosmetic composition of the invention may also contain auxiliary adjuvants and usual in the cosmetic field, such as fat-soluble gelling agents, preservatives, fragrances, fillers, liposoluble UV filters, bactericides, absorbers odor, inorganic or fat-soluble colorants, vegetable extracts, salts, antioxidants, basic agents, acidic agents. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.0001 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These auxiliary adjuvants may be introduced into the oily phase forming a composition according to the invention. COLORING USES The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff, for example chosen from organic dyestuffs and inorganic dyestuffs, such as pigments and fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic (mineral) or organic particles intended to color the resulting film.

As inorganic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and the like. chromium hydrate. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5, yellow quinoline. These inorganic or fat-soluble dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of from 0.0001% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.01% to 25% by weight, or even 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. . According to another embodiment, a composition according to the invention is free of coloring matter, and may constitute a makeup base or a care product for the skin or hair.

COSMETIC ASSETS The person skilled in the art may also add one or more additional liposoluble cosmetic active agents depending on the desired effect on the keratin materials.

Advantageously, these active agents are carried in the oily phase of a composition according to the invention and may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.001% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 10% by weight, still more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

GALENIC The compositions according to the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, ie a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin of human beings and has a pleasant appearance, odor and feel.

In particular, it will be a cosmetic composition of makeup and / or care of the skin or hair, and more particularly the face. More specifically, the compositions according to the invention may be make-up products, preferably of the foundation type, makeup bases, blushers, eyelids, anti-ring products, blushes or a make-up and coloring product. skin, hair or eyelashes, including foundations. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is a makeup base or a foundation. It can also be makeup product or hair coloring. Also, the compositions according to the invention may be skin care products, hair products, or eyelashes, and more particularly skin care products, and preferably a protection, treatment or facial care composition, for example day creams, night cream, sunscreen composition, protective or skincare body milk, after-sun milks, and more preferably a skin care composition. In addition, the compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a paste. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are fluid. The invention will now be illustrated by the following nonlimiting examples.

EXAMPLES Examples 1 and 2 Examples 1 and 2 illustrate the possibility of respectively introducing a polyol and a water-soluble polymer into the aqueous phase of a suspension of a silicone elastomer and then introducing this suspension into the oily phase. Example 1 Example 2 (Invention) (Invention)% by mass% A Polyglycelyl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone sold 6.00 6.00 under the reference KF6100 by Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 64.00 65.90 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 28.00 28.00 elastomer (63% elastomer) sold as (17.64% MA (17.64% MA BY 29-119 by Dow Corning + 10.18% Water) + 10.18% Water ) Propane-1,3 diol sold under the reference Zemea 2.00 - propane diol by the company Dupont Tate and Lyle Bio Products Polyvinylpyrrolidone sold under the reference PVP - 0.10 K 90 by the company ISP homogeneity of the composition homogeneous homogeneous mode The phase A constituents were weighed into the main beaker and stirred while maintaining at room temperature with Moritz stirring (1100 rpm). Phase B is prepared separately by solubilizing the water-soluble compound in the aqueous phase of the silicone elastomer with Rayneri stirring (500 rpm) for 5 minutes. Phase B was then added at room temperature to phase A with stirring with a Moritz stirrer (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenization.

Examples 3 to 6 Examples 3 to 6 illustrate the possibility of introducing water-soluble compounds into the aqueous phase of a suspension of a silicone elastomer and then introducing this suspension into the oily phase. Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 (Invention) (Invention) (Invention) (Invention)% wt% mass% mass specific mass A Polyglycelyl3-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 sold under reference KF6100 by Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 58.41 57.00 59.50 64.00 B Aqueous Suspension 28.00 28.00 28.00 28.00 organopolysiloxane elastomer (63% (17.64% (17, 64% (17.64% (17.64% elastomer) sold under the reference MA MA MA BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning + 10.18% + 10.18% + 10.18% +10.18 % Water) Water) Water) Water Hydroxyethyl urea sold under the 7.59 - - - Hydrovance reference by the company (3% MA) Akzo Nobel Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol - 9.00 - - sold under the reference Mexoryl SBB (3.15 % by the company Chimex MA) Sodium tetrahydrojasmonate sold - - 6.50 - under the reference Mexoryl SBO by the (2.08% Chimex MA company) Niacinamide (Vitamin B3) - - - 2.00 Homogeneity of the Homogeneous Homogeneous composition H Homogeneous omogene Procedure The compositions of Examples 3 to 6 are prepared according to the procedure described for Examples 1 and 2. EXAMPLE 7 Example 7 illustrates the possibility of introducing a water-soluble filter into the aqueous phase of a suspension of water. a silicone elastomer and then introduce this suspension into the oily phase.

Example 7 (Invention)% by mass A Polyglycelyl-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone sold 6.00 under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 56.79 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 28.00 elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under 17.64% reference BY 29-119 by the company Dow Corning MA + 10.18% Water) Terephthalydene dicamphor sulfonic acid sold 7.00 under the reference Mexoryl SX by the company (2.31% Chimex MA) Triethanolamine 2.21 Homogeneity of the composition Homogeneous Procedure The constituents of phase A are weighed into the main beaker and stirred while maintaining at room temperature with Moritz stirring (1100 rpm). Phase B is prepared separately by solubilizing the water-soluble filter in the aqueous phase of the silicone elastomer with magnetic stirring for 5 minutes, and then neutralized with triethanolamine while maintaining the magnetic stirring for 5 minutes.

Phase B is then added at room temperature to phase A with stirring with a Moritz stirrer (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes until homogenization.

Example 8 Example 8 illustrates the possibility of introducing a water-soluble dye into the aqueous phase of a suspension of a silicone elastomer and then introducing this suspension into the oily phase. Example 8 (Invention)% by mass A Polyglycelyl3-3 Disiloxane Dimethicone sold 6.00 under the reference KF6100 by the company Shin-Etsu Dodecamethylpentasiloxane 67.70 B Aqueous suspension of organopolysiloxane 26.00 elastomer (63% elastomer) sold under 16.38% BY 29-119 by Dow Corning MA +9.45% Water) Red 4 0.30 Homogeneity of the composition Homogeneous Procedure The composition of Example 8 is prepared according to the procedure described for the Examples 1 and 2. 10

Claims (14)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium containing an oily phase, said oily phase comprising: (i) at least one silicone elastomer present in water droplets dispersed in said oily phase, - (ii) at least one silicone surfactant polyglyceryl HLB greater than or equal to 8, and - (iii) at least one water-soluble compound, said compound being conveyed within the water droplets of the aqueous dispersion of elastomer (i). 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the oily phase forms the outer phase. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2 comprising water-soluble compounds with an amount of active material ranging from 0.0001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 10% by weight and still more preferably from 0 to 10% by weight. , 1 to 5% by weight. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the water-soluble compound is chosen from C1-C8 monoalcohols, polyols, polymers, active agents, filters, dyes and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the silicone elastomer is in the form of particles of at least one partially or fully crosslinked organopolysiloxane elastomer. The composition of any preceding claim wherein said silicone elastomer is present in said droplets in a form associated with at least one nonionic surfactant. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone elastomer is present in the composition in an amount of active material ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 25% by weight. and even more preferably from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said polyglyceryl silicone and HLB surfactant greater than or equal to 8 is of formula (I): (CH 2) SiO CH Si x Si 0 Gly Si 0 Si (CH) 33 Wherein: Sx is the radical -O (CH3) 25iO-Si (CH3) 3; - Gly is the radical -C3H60 [CH2-CH (OH); CH2O] H with n varying from 1 to 5, and - a varies from 1 to 1.4, b varies from 0.02 to 0.04, and c varies from 0.02-0.04. 9. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 1 to 15% by weight, preferably from 4 to 10% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 8% by weight of polyglyceryl silicone higher HLB silicone surfactant or equal to 8 relative to the total weight of the composition 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, and preferably from 7 to 35% by weight of oil (s) relative to to the total weight of the composition. 11. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the proportion of the oily phase (s) is 3 to 98% by weight, preferably 10 to 90% by weight, and preferably preferred from 20 to 80% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in the form of foundation, makeup base, blush or eyeshadow, anti-ring product, blush or a makeup product, skin coloring, hair or eyelashes, and preferably in the form of makeup base or foundation. 13. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least: a step of introducing at least one silicone elastomer in aqueous suspension into an oily phase, and step of introducing at least one polyglyceryl polyglyceryl silicone surfactant greater than or equal to 8 into an oily phase, the two steps of introduction being simultaneous or consecutive, said aqueous suspension of silicone elastomer containing at least a water-soluble compound. 14. A method of makeup and / or care of a keratinous material, comprising a step of applying a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12.