FR3023683A1 - FOOTWEAR WITH IMPROVED STRUCTURE - Google Patents

Abstract

An article of footwear (1) which comprises a first envelope (21), the first envelope (21) extending in length from a rear end (24) to a front end (25), in width between a lateral edge (26) ) and a medial edge (27), and in height from a bottom (28) to an upper end (29). The article of footwear (1) comprises a functional part (71, 111, 121) arranged opposite the first envelope (21), as well as a means for positioning the functional part (71, 111, 121) with respect to the envelope (21).

Description

An article of footwear with improved structure The invention relates to an article of footwear, such as a shoe or any equivalent, as well as to a method of manufacturing the article of footwear. The footwear can be used in areas such as walking, running on flat terrain or in the mountains, wheeling, ball sport, cross-country skiing, snow surfing, snowshoeing, or other. The article of footwear must fulfill various functions, sometimes antithetical, such as ensuring a maintenance and / or a sufficient tightening of the foot while offering a satisfactory comfort. The article of footwear must also have a certain flexibility, a quality which consists in a good aptitude for marrying certain deformations of the foot. In other words, the article of footwear must adapt to the foot by leaving it the latitude necessary for the walk or the sport in question. To do this it is known and widely used to manufacture footwear, such as shoes, by association of a rod and a sole. The upper generally comprises a number of parts, such as a side section, a medial area, a vamp, a tongue, a heel, a rear buttress, a front protection cap, a tightening device including passers-by and a lace, a lining. internal, or even other parts. In addition, some of these may include several parts. The main problem in a shoe is to assemble and put into a three-dimensional shape pieces cut and assembled flat. The rod is associated, in known manner, with a mounting flange, to delimit a footwear element. According to a first method, the rod is glued to the mounting flange by a layer of glue. The mounting flange, also called the first mounting, is relatively rigid, to resist the mounting process. The gluing is done by pulling the rod to press it on the first of assembly, knowing that a form is inserted in the stem. This is called traditional form fitting. This technique allows to exert sufficient pressure during the heating of the glue, to obtain the footwear element. A second method, also known, is to achieve the footwear element by joining the rod to the first mounting by means of a seam. This is called Strobel editing. The first assembly is here a flexible sole, which can be sewn, called Strobel sole. For each of the first and second methods, the first assembly is part of the assembly. The latter further comprises external parts, such as one or more damping layers, as well as a wear layer, provided for contacting the ground, which are generally fixed by gluing on the first mounting and on the rod mounted on form . The sole comprises one or more inner layers, disposed in the footwear element, to perform protective functions in terms of hygiene, damping, arch support, or other. In the end, the combination of the footwear element with the other components of the sole formation form the shoe. It is observed that, whatever the method used for its manufacture, a shoe according to the prior art made by the most used techniques has certain disadvantages. First of all, the shoe uses a large number of pieces, generally between forty and sixty. Because the number of pieces constituting the shoe is high, the number of manufacturing operations and the time required to conduct them are high. It usually takes forty minutes to an hour and thirty minutes to make a shoe. It can be said that shoes made according to conventional techniques are complicated by both the number of their components and the number of manufacturing operations. Another disadvantage results from the structural discontinuity of the shoe, especially at the stem. For example, a small-sized piece superimposed on another larger can sometimes greatly change the bending ability of the rod where the small piece is located. This can sometimes annoy a user and make it more difficult to shape, that is to say in three dimensions, the rod. Another disadvantage comes from the existence of free spaces between the foot and the shoe. This means that in some places the foot is not in contact with the rod, or with the sole. This is particularly true at certain portions of the junction between the rod and the first assembly. As a result sometimes there is inadvertent movement between the foot and the shoe, which can be a source of embarrassment or trauma. It also sometimes appears spaces between the foot, the ankle or the lower leg and the stem, at the opening of donnage. As a result, foreign bodies may inadvertently enter the shoe. Finally, it can be said that a shoe according to the traditional prior art does not always ensure maintenance and / or sufficient tightening of the foot, or does not always offer a satisfactory comfort. In addition this shoe does not systematically marry all the deformations of the foot.

In relation to this, the Applicant has proposed another approach to manufacturing an article of footwear. For example, according to document FR 2 999 881, an article of footwear comprises a first envelope, the first envelope extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge, and in height from a bottom to an upper end, the first envelope comprising son mechanically connected to each other. The first envelope is shaped in volume, that is to say in three dimensions, being placed on a shape to present a geometry very similar to that of a foot, and thus it marries the foot very homogeneously . This means that the foot is in contact with, or at least very close to, the first envelope. This results in a uniform support of the foot with very little unwanted movement between the latter and the first envelope, or with no movement. An advantage that arises is an increased comfort of the article of footwear, compared to a shoe according to the traditional prior art.

The arrangement according to document FR 2 999 881 also shows that the first envelope has continuity of structure, in the sense that its internal surface and / or its external surface are, if not totally regular, at least essentially regular. This results advantageously that the user is less embarrassed, if at all.

The synthesis of the above shows that the first envelope maintains the foot and provides a satisfactory comfort. In addition the first envelope is able to marry the deformations of the foot. This makes the article of footwear according to document FR 2 999 881 comfortable in any situation, whether static or dynamic. We note additionally by the arrangement according to FR 2 999 881 a reduced number of parts to manufacture the footwear. In relation to this, the invention generally seeks to improve an article of footwear. More specifically, the invention wants, for example, to improve the transmission of driving pulses, the restitution of the reactions of the ground or of a machine, or the perception of sensory information. The invention seeks to optimize the efficiency of use, and reduce the fatigue of a user. The invention still seeks to meet the specific needs of a user, retaining its basic qualities such as comfort and support of the foot. In the case of search support or transmission of intense information, for example during sports use, it is a real challenge. Indeed, the comfort and the optimization in the transmission of the efforts are concepts a priori antinomic.

To meet the problem described above, the invention proposes an article of footwear which comprises a first envelope, the first envelope extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge, and in height from a bottom to an upper end. It will be seen later that for some embodiments, the first envelope comprises son connected to each other mechanically. The article of footwear according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises a functional part arranged opposite the first envelope, as well as a means for positioning the functional part relative to the envelope. This makes it possible to give the envelope one or more specific properties at a given location. For example, as will be developed in the following description, the functional part may be a tubular section located in a metatarsal area. This section is intended to locally increase the resistance of the envelope to the transverse deformation. It is in fact to facilitate the taking of supports in the metatarsal region. The result is that the article is adapted to a practice that requires the transmission of sensory information, driving pulses or ground reactions, rather intense. This is the case during races in rough terrain. But this is only an example and the invention provides, we will see later, other possible functions for an added part. Among the benefits that result, the efficiency of use is optimized, and the fatigue of the user is reduced. The addition of the functional piece preserves the basic qualities of the envelope that are comfort and support of the foot. As a result, the invention succeeds, for example, in reconciling the two antinomic characteristics that are comfort and precision in transmissions. In addition, it will be seen later that the invention also relates to a method which makes the manufacture of the footwear easier. In general, it can be said that the invention improves the structure and the method of manufacture of a footwear item. Other features and advantages of the invention will be better understood with the aid of the description which follows, with reference to the appended figures illustrating, according to non-limiting embodiments, how the invention may be implemented, and in which FIG. 1 is a front perspective view of an article of footwear according to a first embodiment of the invention; FIG. 2 is a section along II-II of FIG. 1; FIG. schematic perspective of a blank and a functional part before assembly of one with the other, the blank being used to manufacture a first envelope and a second envelope of the article of footwear according to Figure 1, - the Figure 4 is similar to Figure 3, in a case where the blank and the functional part are assembled with each other, - Figure 5 is a schematic view of the constitution of an envelope of the article footwear according to Figure 1, - the FIG. 6 is another schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1; FIG. 7 is another schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1, - Figure 8 is a side view of a reinforcement intended to be integrated with the article of footwear according to Figure 1; - Figure 9 is a perspective view which relates to the manufacture of the article of footwear; FIG. 1 is another perspective view which relates to the manufacture of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1; FIG. 11 is a schematic perspective view of a blank used to manufacture a first envelope; according to a second embodiment of the invention, - Figure 12 is a front perspective view of a footwear, side up, obtained from the blank of Figure 11, - Figure 13 is a view. schematic in perspective before a bauche used to manufacture a first envelope, the blank receiving functional parts, according to a third embodiment of the invention, - Figure 14 is a view similar to Figure 13, in a case where the functional parts are not still associated with the draft.

The first embodiment that will be described after relates for example to an article of footwear for walking or for running on horizontal terrain or in the mountains. However, the first embodiment applies to other fields such as those mentioned before. The first form is described hereinafter with reference to FIGS. 1 to 10.

As shown in Figures 1 and 2, a footwear 1 is provided to accommodate the foot of the user. It is appropriate for the rest of the description to consider that the article of footwear 1 is a shoe even if, we will see soon in detail, its structure is totally unusual. Thus, the boot 1 extends in length, in a longitudinal direction L, between a rear end or heel 4 and a front end or tip 5, and in width, in a transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 6 and an edge medial 7. As shown in the shoe 1 comprises a lower portion 10, provided to surround the foot, excluding any high portion. However, it may alternatively be considered a shoe comprising both a low portion and a high portion, the latter being provided to surround the ankle and possibly the lower leg.

According to the first embodiment described, the shoe 1 extends in height from a bottom 12 to an upper end 13, that is to say up to the free end of the lower portion 10 or the shoe 1. The bottom is a subdivision of the shoe on which the foot is supported. The boot 1 is structured to allow a smooth running of the foot during walking, transmissions of sensory information, and pulses for support or receptions. This is why the shoe 1, or footwear, is relatively flexible. As will be detailed later, the boot 1 comprises a first casing 21 which extends in length, in the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 24 to a front end 25, in width, in the transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 26 and a medial edge 27, and in height from a bottom 28 to an upper end 29. This allows the first envelope to surround and maintain the user's foot. For its constitution, the first envelope includes son connected to each other mechanically, as will be explained later. Also, at least part of the son of the first envelope comprises at least one hot-melt filament, as will also be explained later. According to the first embodiment, and in a nonlimiting manner, the son of the first envelope which comprise at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entirety of the first envelope 21, and the fusion of the son during manufacture contributes , to a greater or lesser extent, depending on their quantity, concentration, resistance and / or bonding and / or abrasion resistance of the first envelope. In fact, the fusion of the yarns gives the first wrapper 21 the ability to retain its shape by itself. This means that it does not sag if no external force is applied to it, even if it is not associated with other parts. On the one hand, it can be said that the first envelope 21 is a one-piece piece and, on the other hand, that it can form a self-supporting part, giving the shape of the shoe, to a greater or lesser extent, depending on the quantity / concentration of the threads. As a result, the first shell 21 gives shape to the boot 1. In other words, the rear end 24, the front end 25, the side edge 26, the medial edge 27, the bottom 28 and the upper end 29 of the first envelope delimit respectively the rear end 4, the front end 5, the lateral edge 6, the medial edge 7, the bottom 12 and the upper end 13 of the footwear or shoe 1. The minimalist structure adopted for the envelope 21 is a guarantee of simplicity, lightness, and many other advantages, as we will see later. Without limitation, still according to the first embodiment of the invention, the boot 1 also comprises a second casing 31 which extends in length, in the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 34 to a front end 35, in width, in the transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 36 and a medial edge 37, and in height from a bottom 38 to an upper end 39. The second envelope 31 covers the foot too, at the Like the first 21. The second envelope 31 is disposed outside the first 21 and, therefore, covers the foot indirectly. In the end the shape of the shoe 1 is given both by the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. It will be better later thereafter the interest of using two envelopes. Still in the spirit of the invention, the second envelope 31 comprises son mechanically connected to each other, at least a portion of the son comprising at least one hot-melt filament, the son comprising at least one hot-melt filament being distributed over the the whole of the second casing 31, and the shape of the second casing being fixed by fusion of the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament. Here again the fusion confers on the second envelope 31 the ability to retain its shape by itself. This means that it does not sag if no external force is applied to it, even if it is not associated with other parts. On the one hand, it can be said that the second envelope 31 is a one-piece piece and, on the other hand, that it can form a self-supporting part, giving its shape to the shoe, to a greater or lesser extent, as a function of the quantity / concentration of the threads. As a result, the second envelope 31 also gives shape to the shoe 1. In other words, the rear end 34, the front end 35, the lateral edge 36, the medial edge 37, the bottom 38 and the upper end 39 of the second envelope 31 also delimit respectively the rear end 4, the front end 5, the lateral edge 6, the medial edge 7, the bottom 12 and the upper end 13 of the footwear or shoe 1. The minimalist structure adopted for the envelope 31 is a guarantee of simplicity, lightness, and many other advantages, as we will see later. In order to better highlight the specific features of the invention, it is useful to specify how the envelopes 21, 31 are made. This is done in particular with the help of FIGS. 3 to 7. As can be seen throughout firstly in Figures 3 and 4, schematically, obtaining each envelope 21, 31 is made by manufacturing a sleeve 41, that is to say in fact a flexible tube made of son linked to each other mechanically. We can alternatively say that an envelope 21, 31 is a sock, as will be seen later on all the figures. The sleeve 41 is a blank for the realization of the article 1. In a nonlimiting way, in correlation with the first embodiment, the sleeve 41 makes it possible to make both the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. The sleeve 41 extends in length from a first end 42 to a second end 43. The first end 42 is closed here by any technique known to those skilled in the art, such as for example a stitch after folding, the addition of a ferrule made of wires connected to each other mechanically, or any equivalent. The second end 43, for its part, is simply an opening. It can be seen that the sleeve 41 makes it possible to manufacture the envelopes 21, 31 in one piece.

Here the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 extend one another. This simplifies manufacturing by reducing the number of parts and the time required for implementation. The combination of the threads used to make the sleeve 41, and therefore the envelopes 21, 31, is presented with the aid of FIGS. 5 and 6. It is generally expected that the threads are associated with each other by any textile technique. appropriate, such as knitting, weaving, braiding, or other. In the case of knitting, it is possible to use a circular loom single needle or double needle, a cylinder loom, or a straight loom. Two knitting zones can be joined to each other by Intarsia technique or by embroidery. Various decorative patterns can be obtained directly during knitting, by the Intarsia method, embroidery, Jacquard technique, or other. Figure 5 symbolizes a traditional weave with first son 44 oriented in a first direction, second son 45 oriented in a second direction, the first 44 and second 45 son crossing to form a flexible mesh. Figure 6, meanwhile, symbolizes a knitting here with three son 46, 47, 48 arranged in loops that interpenetrate. But, of course, many other arrangements are possible. The sleeve 41 is for example manufactured with a straight loom, which allows to vary the sections, that is to say in fact the diameter of the sleeve, to make shape variations for the heel, to make openings for the passage of laces, to vary the density of the wall of the sleeve, or in particular to vary the tightening of the loops. In fact the rectilinear craft offers a wide range of adjustment possibilities, and it is suitable for making sleeves of all sizes, either in diameter or in length. As such, the straight line is more practical than the circular loom. Indeed, it works on a reduced range in the diameter of the sleeve. It is therefore necessary to use several different circular looms to make a complete range of sleeves 41, that is to say a complete range of shoes where all sizes are represented where a single straight loom is sufficient. Finally a rectilinear craft allows to make one or more envelopes in three dimensions, with all the desired characteristics, and the desired size. It is also useful to recall what is a wire within the meaning of the invention.

Firstly, the yarn may be a monofilament, obtained for example by extrusion of a hot melt synthetic material, such as a polyamide, a polyurethane, a polyethylene, or any equivalent material or the like. The production of a filament is continuous, comparable to the silk filament produced by a spider. It should be noted in passing that the filament may be single-component, or mono-material, in the sense that its cross-section is regular. But the filament can also be multi-component, for example two-component. In the latter case, a cross section of a filament shows a core consisting of a first material, and a peripheral envelope which surrounds the core, envelope consisting of a second material. Each material can be hot melt, or only one can be.

If both materials are, their melting temperatures are different. Then the wire can be multi-filament. It is in this case obtained by association of several filaments. Such an association is represented by the diagram of FIG. 7. Here, all the filaments 49 are of the same nature, in the sense that each of them has the same melting point. But we can provide combinations of filaments of different kinds, some of which may be fusible and others not, or with different melting points. The filaments are associated with each other by any known technique. Again, the yarn can be made in the form of a net of fibers. Here a fiber is a filament of limited length. The fibers are associated by close contact to form the net, by any known technique and in particular by torsion. The maintenance of the fibers to each other is traditionally made by friction, especially with natural fibers such as cotton. However, for the invention, the maintenance of the fibers to each other is done either by friction, or by combination of friction and melt adhesion, or still completely by adhesion, because the invention uses hot melt materials. Having presented generally the structure of the sleeve 41, it will be possible to explain its use for the manufacture of the shoe 1. However, beforehand, to remain in the spirit of the first embodiment, it is useful to explain that the article footwear 1, or shoe, includes a reinforcement 51. It will be seen better after this reinforcement is associated with the envelopes 21, 31 by interlocking at the time of manufacture of the shoe 1, to give it specific skills.

As shown in FIG. 8, the reinforcement 51 is a piece which extends in length from a rear end 54 to a front end 55, in width between a lateral edge 56 and a medial edge 57, and in height from a bottom 58 to an upper end 59. The reinforcement 51 has a length and a width similar to the lengths and widths of the envelopes 21, 31. More specifically the reinforcement 51 extends, in relation to the first envelope 21, in length since the rear end 24 to the front end 25, in width between the lateral edge 26 and the medial edge 27, and in height from the bottom 28 to the upper end 29. This allows, by definition, to reinforce the first envelope 21, and therefore the footwear 1, especially at the bottom 12 and the periphery of the bottom.

Not necessarily, the reinforcement 51 carries a clamping device 61. This comprises for example loops 62, located at the upper end 59, and a lace 63 and a locking device 64, known from the skilled person. It is therefore possible to tighten or loosen the reinforcement 51 and, in doing so, to tighten or loosen the shoe 1, as it will appear better after. Other clamping means may be provided. According to the invention, as is generally understood with the aid of FIGS. 1 to 10, the article of footwear 1 comprises a functional part 71 arranged opposite the first envelope 21, as well as a means for positioning the functional part. 71 relative to the envelope. It will be seen later that, according to the first embodiment, the functional part 71 gives the article of footwear 1 specific localized mechanical properties. The positioning means, which will be described later, makes it possible to set up accurately the functional part 71 on the first envelope 21, and thus ultimately on the article of footwear 1. Since Article 1 is a three-dimensional object, the invention allows the introduction of the functional part on a volume. In fact, the functional part 71 has a three-dimensional structure. This structure has a shape identical or similar to the surface that it must marry. This facilitates its implementation and allows its positioning at the desired location. Since the article of footwear 1 has concave portions and / or convex portions, the functional part 71 also has, in most cases, concave portions and / or convex portions, due to its conformability properties. conferred by the deformation of its mechanical structure (meshes) and / or the use of elastane filaments and / or elastic filaments. In the specific case of the first embodiment of the invention, the functional part 71 is made from a tubular section, that is to say from a sleeve portion or a portion of a sock. . This allows to place it at the desired location facing the envelopes 21, 31 by threading on one of two, or both at the same time. It is specified that the sock may be devoid of heel, or include one or more, and that the sock may be closed at one or both ends. When the functional part 30 has the shape of a sock, or sock, this makes it possible to obtain in addition a very precise longitudinal positioning during the placing on the envelope 21, 31, because of the stops constituted by the heel and the front end of the sock. For example, in a nonlimiting manner, the functional part 71 is arranged on the first envelope 21. In order to understand its role, it is specified that the article 1 has, from the rear end 4 towards the front end 5, four successive areas. These areas are a heel area 72, a plantar area 73, a metatarsal area 74, and a front area for receiving the toes of the foot. It appears that for the first embodiment of the invention, the functional part is located in the metatarsal area. In fact, the functional piece completely bypasses the metatarsal area, being oriented in a transverse plane of the article of footwear 1. This gives the latter a greater resistance to transverse deformations. A benefit that results is better ground support at the metatarsal level, with greater transverse stability. Still in a nonlimiting manner, as will be seen better later, the functional part 71 is housed between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. This makes its integration in article 1 easier. As for the envelopes 21, 31, the functional part 71 comprises son 44 to 48 mechanically connected to each other, at least part of the son comprising at least one hot-melt filament 49. It is a question of being able to give a subdivision at less than the functional piece 71 a stable, self-supporting structure, once the fusion performed. Here the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entirety of the functional part 71, and the shape of the functional part 71 can be fixed or not by the fusion of the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament. In a nonlimiting manner, again for the first embodiment of the invention, the positioning means of the functional part 71 with respect to the first casing 21 comprises, besides the tubular shape of the handle portion, extensible threads. reversibly, the son being associated with the structure of the functional part. That is to say that some of the constituent son of the functional part are elastic. These son are for example made of elastane. In practice, the functional part 71, that is to say the handle portion, is due to its tubular shape and the presence of extensible threads, threaded on, and takes place at the desired location around the first envelope 21. as we will understand later. Let us first consider the use of the sleeve 41 for the manufacture of the shoe 1, according to FIGS. 9 and 10. In fact the constituents of the shoe 1 are assembled by hand, without the complex and expensive machine as it was the case for the prior art. With Figures 9 and 10 it is understood that the sleeve 41 is threaded onto a part 76, called shape, which is in the image of the foot of the user. The sleeve is applied to the shape 76 in the manner of a sock on a foot. The sleeve 41 is shaped by the shape 76 thanks to its elasticity, which is due to its textile constitution. The elasticity which makes it possible to shape the sleeve 41 is due to a reversible elastic deformation of the meshes constituting the sleeve. Then the functional part 71, that is to say here the sleeve portion, is threaded onto the shape 76 around the first envelope 21 at the desired location, in this case, in the metatarsal zone 74. elasticity maintains it in the desired position, because it exerts a restraint on the shape and on the first envelope. Then the reinforcement 51 35 is fitted on the subdivision of the sleeve 41 which will become the first envelope 21. Then the subdivision of the sleeve 41 which will become the second envelope 31 is folded over the reinforcement 51, thereby covering the latter as well the subdivision assigned to the first envelope and the functional part 71. This is sufficient to constitute the subset of the shoe 1 which surrounds the foot, sub-assembly which ultimately comprises the first envelope 21, the functional part 71, the reinforcement 51, and the second envelope 31. It should be noted in passing that the second envelope 31 has an orifice 77 for the passage of the lace 63. It is then sufficient to subject the subassembly to a rise in temperature, by any appropriate technique, to make to melt just the necessary level the hot melt filaments of the envelopes and the functional part 71, and thus give the shoe 1, among other things its geometry. In the present case, the functional part 71 provides an improvement in the resistance to deformation of the assembly, in the manner of a torsion box, which is particularly important in the metatarsal region to give more stability to the 'together. After heating, the shape 76 can be removed from the subset. The shoe 1 is almost finished. It suffices, according to the first embodiment, to add an outer sole 78. As seen in Figures 1 and 2 the footwear 1, or shoe, includes an outer sole 78. The latter is intended to support on the floor and, therefore, is structured to resist frictional wear and also to cushion shocks. It therefore comprises, by way of example, a wear layer 79 and a damping layer 80.

In Figure 2, which is a cross section in the shoe region for receiving the arch of the foot, it is found that the bottom 12 has a non-planar geometry, substantially identical to that of the vault mentioned above. The shoe 1 according to the invention is indeed able, as we said, to comply with the foot. It is therefore not necessary to add to the shoe 1 an insole to reproduce the arch, or other aspects of the underside of the foot. This thus simplifies the shoe 1 according to the invention with respect to a shoe according to the prior art. This also lighten the shoe 1 and, therefore, reduces mechanical inertia. An advantage that arises is the improvement of sports performance. The shoe according to the invention is suitable for example very well for a runner. FIG. 2 also shows that the reinforcement 51 is situated between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. As a corollary, the clamping device 61 is also essentially located between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. This preserves it, for example by avoiding the attachment of the lace 63 in branches during a race in the forest. Still in connection with Figure 2, but also with Figure 1, it is observed that the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 are continuous in a cross section. These envelopes therefore extend continuously at their respective upper ends 29, 39, and thus at the upper end 13 of the shoe. As can be understood from FIG. 1, but also from FIG. 3 or 4, the boundary between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 is a fold 83 which delimits a wearing opening 84. The periphery of the boot opening 84 is therefore delimited simply by folding the two envelopes 21, 31 one over the other. This means that this periphery has no seam or insert, as in the prior art, and that therefore the shoe 1 is not a source of discomfort for the user including the opening 84 .

For example, as seen in Figure 3, or in Figure 4, the first envelope 21 has three zones 91, 92, 93 with different mechanical properties. These properties depend on the percentage of hot melt filaments contained in the yarns. There is provided here, without limitation, a first zone 91 with a high concentration of hot melt filaments, for example between 60 and 100%. The first zone 91 delimits the bottom 28 and the periphery of the bottom. An intermediate zone or second zone 92 with an average concentration of hot-melt filaments, for example between 30 and 70%, is then provided. The second zone extends mainly at the level of the lateral edges 26 and medial 27. Finally, there is provided a third zone 93 with a low concentration of hot-melt filaments, for example between 5 and 40%. The third zone extends mainly at the level of the upper end 29. This arrangement makes the first envelope 21 relatively inflexible towards the bottom 28, but more and more flexible towards the upper end 29. The flexibility, or the elasticity, is conditioned by the nature of the knit stitches and / or by the elasticity of the constituent material of the stitches. This elasticity allows the first envelope 21 to remain in contact with the foot, ankle or lower leg, which prevents the intrusion of foreign bodies. An elastic thread maintained in tension allows a good support of the foot. In the same spirit, the second envelope 31 has three zones 101, 102, 103 with different mechanical properties. These properties again depend on the percentage of hot melt filaments contained in the yarns. There is provided here, without limitation, a first zone 101 with a high concentration of hot melt filaments, for example between 60 and 100%. The first zone 101 delimits the bottom 38 and the periphery of the bottom. An intermediate zone or second zone 102 with an average concentration of hot-melt filaments, for example between 30 and 70%, is then provided. The second zone extends mainly at the level of the lateral 36 and medial edges 37. Finally, there is provided a third zone 103 with a low concentration of hot-melt filaments, for example between 5 and 40%. The third zone extends mainly at the level of the upper end 39. This arrangement makes the second envelope 31 relatively inflexible towards the bottom 38, but more and more flexible towards the upper end 39. Here again the flexibility towards the the upper end allows the second envelope 31 to remain pressed against the foot, ankle or lower leg, which prevents the intrusion of foreign bodies. Again, an envelope that includes an elastic thread held in tension allows a good support of the foot. For each envelope 21, 31, the fusion of the filaments determines the physical or mechanical properties in proportion to the hot melt filaments. For example, the more these are numerous, in percentage, the more the resistance to abrasion increases. Conversely, if the percentage of hot melt filaments is reduced, the elasticity is preserved. In other words, the higher the percentage of hot melt filaments, the higher the resistance to abrasion and the reduced elasticity. Conversely, if the percentage of hot-melt filaments is low, then the abrasion resistance is low and, as a corollary, the elasticity is important.

Finally, when the envelopes 21, 31 and the functional part 71 are assembled, the shoe 1 sees its flexibility increase vertically from the bottom 12 to the upper end 13. This gives him on the one hand the ability to support the foot and on the other hand, the ability to reversibly deflect at the upper end 13 to facilitate donning or loosening. It must be kept in mind, however, that the arrangements of the envelopes given above are not limiting. In particular it is possible to give each envelope and the functional part 71 the desired properties, such as elasticity, sealing, wear resistance, fungicidal properties, a desired aesthetic appearance, or other.

According to the first embodiment still, the thickness of the first envelope 21 is less than or equal to 5 mm, knowing that values less than or equal to 3 mm have given good results. This makes the first envelope 21 light. In the same spirit, the thickness of the second envelope 31 is less than or equal to 5 mm, knowing that values less than or equal to 3 mm have given good results. This makes the second envelope 31 light. The thickness of the functional part 71 is less than or equal to 3mm. This makes it light. For each piece 21, 31, 71, the thickness is measured after melting of the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament. Ultimately, the shoe 1 according to the invention is lighter than a shoe according to the prior art, with comparable technical characteristics. The other embodiments of the invention are summarized below with reference to FIGS. 11 to 14. For reasons of convenience, it is above all the differences with respect to the first embodiment that are highlighted. In addition, it is intended to use the same references for like or similar elements seen in the first form. Thus, for the second form, according to FIGS. 11 and 12, there is an article of footwear or shoe 1, with its rear ends 4 and front 5, its lateral 6 and medial edges 7, or its bottom 12 and its upper end 13. What is specific to the second embodiment is the structure of the blank or sleeve 41. This extends well between a first end 42, for example closed, and a second end 43 open. However, the sleeve 41 is dimensioned to obtain the first envelope 21 only, to the exclusion of any other envelope or envelope subdivision. Consequently, it is the open end 43 of the first casing 21 which alone delimits the boot opening 84. The boot 1 according to the second embodiment therefore comprises the first casing 21, the functional part 71, and the reinforcement 51, with its clamping device 61, excluding any additional envelope. It can also be said that the reinforcement 51 covers the first envelope 21. This means that the shoe 1 is even lighter, compared to the shoe according to the first embodiment. It is also provided an outer sole 78 for the shoe in the second form, although this is not mandatory. For the third embodiment, according to Figures 13 and 14, there is a sleeve 41 sized to obtain the first envelope 21 only.

What is specific to the second embodiment is that it comprises several functional parts. In this case, towards the rear 24, the functional part 111 is a rear buttress. It is still a three-dimensional element. Forward, the functional part 121 is a front end. This is also a three-dimensional element. These elements 111, 121 improve for example the abrasion resistance, or confer a greater rigidity. The three-dimensional shape facilitates placement and positioning. The invention is not limited to the embodiments described above, and includes all technical equivalents that fall within the scope of the claims that follow. In particular, one or more functional parts 71, 111, 121. can be provided. Each functional part is disposed either inside an envelope, or outside an envelope, or between two envelopes, function of the desired technical effects. In some cases the positioning means, the functional part 71, 111, 121 relative to the casing 21, 31, comprises a bonding product. In other cases, the positioning means of the functional part relative to the envelope comprises fastening elements. The invention is applicable to any type of shoe with rod compatible material. In this case the rod is mounted on form, then the functional part having specific characteristics is placed on the rod, then its bonding is performed, and finally the outer sole is added.

The invention relates to a method of manufacturing an article of footwear comprising a first envelope, the first envelope extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge, and in height from a bottom to an upper end, the method comprising a step of adding a functional part to the form-mounted envelope before assembly with an external sole. In this manufacturing method according to the invention, the functional part is provided with positioning means, for example by the use of a tubular section / sock portion or other three-dimensional shape allowing easy positioning and also by the use of extensible material for example for the tubular section / sock portion.

Claims (19)

CLAIMS1- Footwear (1) which comprises a first casing (21), the first casing (21) extending in length from a rear end (24) to a front end (25), in width between a lateral edge (26) and a medial edge (27), and in height from a bottom (28) to an upper end (29), characterized in that it comprises a functional part (71, 111, 121) arranged in view of the first envelope (21), and a positioning means of the functional part (71, 111, 121) relative to the envelope (21). 2- article of footwear (1) according to claim 1, characterized in that the first envelope (21) comprises son (44, 45, 46, 47, 48) linked to each other mechanically. 3- article of footwear (1) according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the functional part (71, 111, 121) has a three-dimensional structure. 4- article of footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the functional part (71, 111, 121) comprises son (44, 45, 46, 47, 48) related to each other mechanically, at least a portion of the wires (44, 45, 46, 47, 48) comprising at least one hot-melt filament (49). 5- article of footwear (1) according to claim 4, characterized in that the son which comprise at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entire functional part (71, 111, 121). 20 6- Article footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the functional part (71) is made from a tubular section. 7- Article footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the functional part (71) is located in a metatarsal area (74). 8. Footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the functional part (111) is a rear buttress. 9- Article footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the functional part (121) is a front end. 10- article of footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the positioning means, the functional part (71, 111, 121) relative to the casing 30 (21, 31) , comprises reversibly extensible wires, the wires being associated with the structure of the functional part. 11- article of footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the positioning means, the functional part (71, 111, 121) relative to the envelope, comprises a bonding product . 35 12- article of footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the positioning means, the functional part (71, 111, 121) relative to the casing (21, 31), includes hooking elements. 13- Article footwear (1) according to one of claims 2 to 12, characterized in that at least a portion of the son (44, 45, 46, 47, 48) of the first envelope (21) comprises at least a hot-melt filament (49). 14. Article of footwear (1) according to claim 13, characterized in that the son of the first envelope (21) which comprise at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entirety of the first envelope (21), and by the fact that the fusion of the yarns contributes to holding and / or bonding and / or abrasion resistance of the first envelope. 15. Footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 14, characterized in that it comprises a second casing (31) which extends in length from a rear end (34) to one end front (35), in width between a lateral edge (36) and a medial edge (37), and in height from a bottom (38) to an upper end (39). 16- Footwear (1) according to claim 15, characterized in that the second casing (31) comprises son (44, 45, 46, 47, 48) mechanically connected to each other, at least a portion of the son comprising at least one hot-melt filament, the yarns which comprise at least one hot-melt filament being distributed over the whole of the second envelope, and the shape of the second envelope being fused by the yarns which comprise at least one hot-melt filament (49). ). 17- Footwear (1) according to claim 15 or 16, characterized in that the first casing (21) and the second casing (31) extend one another. 20 18- Article footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it comprises a reinforcement (51) which carries a clamping device (61). 19- Article footwear (1) according to one of claims 1 to 18, characterized in that it comprises an outer sole (78).