FR3008887A1 - METHOD FOR TREATING HAIR WITH AT LEAST ONE POLYMER FUNCTIONALIZED BY AT LEAST ONE ALCOXYSILANE MOTIF AND AT LEAST ONE CATIONIC POLYMER - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a method for treating hair using: a) one or more silicone-patterned polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups; b) one or more cationic polymers; compounds a) and b) can be implemented from one or more compositions.

Description

The invention relates to a method of treating the hair, in particular for shaping the hair. Two main categories of hair shaping products are generally used: hair styling products and permanent products. Styling products allow a non-permanent shaping of the hair. They are used on wet or dry hair before shaping by hand or using a brush or a comb. They are in the form of gels, mousses, waxes, pastes, lacquers, or sprays. After their application to the hair and after drying, these products harden significantly. This results in a non-natural, dry, corporeal touch necessary to maintain and volume the hairstyle. In addition, they are poorly resistant to moisture and hair lose their shaping in case of exposure to a humid atmosphere, especially in a humid and hot atmosphere. Thus, on the one hand the general shape of the hairstyle is quickly lost and, on the other hand, the hair form frizz, especially for naturally curly hair. To improve the feel, it is known to use silicones, or silicone derivatives, in particular amino silicones and amino silicones with silanol functions capable of reacting with each other to form new bonds. Silicones give a natural, soft, non-greasy and non-frizzy touch. They can also partially withstand water which keeps the touch soft and natural. However, they do not make it possible to obtain shaping of the hair, or to fight against the appearance of frizz, except to apply a very large amount of product, which gives a greasy touch. As they compensate for very little dry touch when associated with other types of styling products such as fixing polymers, the combination of these two technologies remains unsatisfactory.

In addition, these styling products are eliminated by shampooing. So you have to apply them daily. The permanent products allow a lasting shaping of the hair. Generally, the technique used to obtain a permanent deformation of the hair consists, in a first step, in opening the disulfide bonds -SS- of the keratin (cystine) by applying to the hair previously put under tension (hair curlers and other means powering up) a reducing composition (reducing step) and then, preferably after having rinsed the hair so treated, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair still under tension an oxidizing composition (oxidation step , also called fixation) so as finally to give the hair the desired shape.

The new shape imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is durable over time and particularly resistant to the action of washing with water or shampoo. However, such a technique is not entirely satisfactory. Indeed, this technique is very effective for changing the shape of the hair, but very degrading for hair fibers. These two systems do not provide a cosmetology and / or sufficient durability of the effect obtained. The document WO2011 / 080034 describes compositions comprising a macromolecule with an alkoxysilyl function and a trialkoxysilane for the hair treatment, in particular for the temporary deformation of the keratinous fibers, which have good resistance to washing. However, the cosmetic properties conferred on the hair are not entirely satisfactory. Therefore, there remains a need for a hair treatment process to give the hair the desired shape in a sustainable manner, while having very good cosmetic properties including in terms of softness, shine and lack of sticky touch. The present invention is specifically intended to meet these needs. In one of its aspects, the invention relates to a hair treatment method using: a) one or more silicone-patterned polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups; b) one or more cationic polymers, compounds a) and b) can be implemented from one or more compositions.

The invention also relates to the use of one or more silicone-patterned polymers carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups and one or more cationic polymers for the treatment of hair, and in particular for shaping hair. The process of the invention uses one or more silicone-patterned polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups. Preferably, the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups have the following formula (I): ## STR1 ## ## STR1 ## where Rb is O-Si-Z 2 O-Si Wherein Z2 is -CH2-NR3R4; Z 3 represents a group OR 5 or R 6; R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an R7 group; - R1, R5, R6, R7, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, and R4 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a 05-06 cycloalkyl group; R3 and R4 may form with the nitrogen atom carrying a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle and having from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, - Ra, Rb, identical or different represent a C1-02 alkyl group, n represents an integer greater than 1. Preferably, the C1-C6 alkyl groups are methyl or ethyl groups. Preferably, R 1 is an ethyl group.

When R 4 is C 5 -C 6 cycloalkyl, it is preferably a C 6 cycloalkyl group such as cyclohexyl. Preferably, n ranges from 1 to 10,000, preferably from 5 to 1000, more preferably from 8 to 400. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, Z 2 represents a group -CH 2 -NR 3 R 4, R 4 represents an alkyl group. preferably, cyclohexyl, R3 represents a hydrogen atom and R5 represents an ethyl group. According to another particular embodiment of the invention R3 and R4 form with the nitrogen which carries them a cyclic group, preferably morpholino and R5 represents an ethyl group.

Preferably, in the formula (I), SiRaRb- [OSiRaRb] n- is a unit derived from a linear silicone having a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 200 to 40,000, more preferably from 400 to 25,000. examples of polymers used in the process of the invention include: - polymers of formula (la) H OEt OEt Fi-0 Me / Si 0-Si 0 Si 1 I OEt OE Me Me 0-Si The polymers of formula (Ia) can be obtained by reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated silicone with triethoxycyclohexylaminomethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in WO2005108495. According to one particular example, the polymer (laa) corresponding to formula (Ia) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol. the polymers of formula (Ib) are of formula (Ib). The polymers of formula (Ib) can be obtained by reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated silicone, with diethoxycyclohexylaminomethyl, methylsilane, according in particular to the techniques described in the document WO2005108495. According to a particular example, the polymer (Iba) corresponding to formula (Ib) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol. the polymers of formula (Ic) ## STR2 ## The polymers of formula (Ic) can be obtained by reacting a silicone with hydroxyl terminations, with triethoxymorpholinomethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in document WO2009019165. According to a particular example, the polymer (Ica), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (lcb), corresponding to the formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight-average molecular weight of 10600 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (Icc), corresponding to the formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight-average molecular weight of 14600 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (lcd), corresponding to the formula (Ic) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 21100 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (Ice), corresponding to formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 550 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (Icf) corresponding to the formula (Ic) is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 1000 g / mol. According to another particular example, the polymer (Icg), corresponding to the formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 1200 g / mol.

According to another particular example, the polymer (Ich), corresponding to the formula (Ic), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 1700 g / mol. polymers of formula (Id) ## STR1 ## polymers of formula (Id) can be obtained by reaction of a silicone with hydroxyl terminations, with diethoxymorpholinomethylmethylsilane according in particular to the techniques described in the document WO2009019165. According to one particular example, the polymer of formulas (Ida), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 4750 g / mol . According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idb), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 10600 g / mol .

According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idc), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 14600 g / mol . According to another particular example, the polymer of formulas (Idd), corresponding to formula (Id), is obtained according to the operating scheme presented above, starting from a silicone with a weight average molecular weight Mw of 21100 g / mol. The content of the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), in the composition containing them generally ranges from 0.1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 0 to 40% by weight. , 5% to 30% by weight and more particularly 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition in which they are used. As indicated above, the process according to the invention uses one or more cationic polymers. The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in the patent applications FR-A2 270 846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863. In a more general sense, for the purposes of the present invention, the term "cationic polymer" denotes any polymer containing cationic groups. and / or ionizable groups in cationic groups. The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

The cationic polymers used generally have an average molecular weight in number or in weight of between about 500 and 5 × 10 6, and preferably between about 103 and 3 × 10 6. Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products. The polymers of the polyamine, polyamidoamide or quaternary polyammonium type which can be used in accordance with the present invention, which may be mentioned in particular, are those described in French Pat. Nos. 2,505,348 or 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: ) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formula: ## STR2 ## Embedded image in which R 3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 radical; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl radical and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; R1 and R2, identical or different, represent hydrogen or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of the family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls (C1-C4) , acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by the company HERCULES copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described for example in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company Cl BA GEIGY, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methosulphate of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium sold under the name Reten by Hercules, - vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise. These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers. and the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers. (2) cationic polysaccharides, in particular cationic celluloses and cationic galactomannan gums. Among the cationic polysaccharides, mention may be made more particularly of cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer and cationic galactomannan gums. The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose having reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. Cationic cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkyl celluloses, such as hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyl trimethylammonium, methacrylmidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyl-diallylammonium. The cationic galactomannan gums are described more particularly in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, in particular guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (eg chloride) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. (3) polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2,162,025 and 2,280,361; (4) water-soluble polyaminoamides prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide, a epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polymaoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functions, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508; (5) polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipiquadioacylaminohydroxyalkyldialoylene triamine polymers in which the alkyl radical contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363.

Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "CARTARETI NE F, F4 or F8" by SANDOZ. (6) polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular marketed under the name "HERCOSETT 57" by the company Hercules Inc. by the company HERCULES in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylenetriamine copolymer. (7) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium co-cyclopolymers, such as copolymers having, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (II) or (II '): (CH 2) k - (CH 2 ## STR5 ## wherein R 1 (R 12) -CH 2 -CH 2 CH 2 N + Y-R 10 R 11 (CH 2) k - (CH 2) t-CR 12 C (R 12) -CH 2 -CH 2 CH 2 N (II ') x / R 10 which k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1 -C4) or R10 and R11 may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; It is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are described in particular in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. R10 and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms. Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the copolymers of diallyldimethylammonium chloride and of acrylamide sold under the name "Merquat 550" by the company Nalco. (8) quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units corresponding to the formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic radicals containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals, or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -00 group -O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17-D where R17 is alkylene and D is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms of oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- group in which D denotes: a) a radical glycol composition of formula: -O-Z-O-, wherein Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - [CH2-CH (CH3) -O] y-CH2-CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a average degree of polymerization; B) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula: -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or alternatively the divalent radical -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula: -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide.

These polymers have a number-average molecular weight generally between 1000 and 100,000.

Polymers of this type are described in French patents 2,320,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. , 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027 .020. It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to the formula: R 3 + N- (CH 2) n N- (CH 2) P - (a) R 2 X -R 4 X- in which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 , identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from 2 to about 20 and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A compound of formula (a) which is particularly preferred is that for which R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 represent a methyl radical and n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the NCI nomenclature (CTFA). (9) quaternary polyammonium polymers comprising units of formula (IV): ## STR1 ## Wherein R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl, 3-hydroxyethyl or 3-hydroxypropyl radical, or -CH2CH2 (OCH2CH2) p0H, where p is 0 or an integer from 1 to 6, with the proviso that R18, R19, R20 and R21 are not simultaneously hydrogen, r and s are the same or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, X- denotes an anion such as a halide, A denotes a radical of a dihalide or represents preferably -CH 2 -CH 2 -O-CH 2 -CH 2 -.

Such compounds are described in particular in the patent application EP-A-122 324. The products "Mirapol® A 15", "Mirapol® AD1", "Mirapol® AZ1" and "Mirapol® AZ1" may for example be mentioned among them. Mirapol® 175 "sold by the company Miranol. (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinylimidazole such as, for example, the products sold under the names Luviquat® FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company B.A.S.F. (11) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized by the methyl chloride, homo or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. Other cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the invention are polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives, especially chitosan or their salts; the salts that can be used are, in particular, chitosan acetate, lactate, glutamate, gluconate or pyrrolidonecarboxylate.

Among these compounds, mention may be made of chitosan having a degree of deacetylation of 90% by weight, the chitosan pyrrolidonecarboxylate marketed under the name KYTAMER® PC by the company Amerchol. Of all the cationic polymers which may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use cationic cyclopolymers, in particular homopolymers or copolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat. 550 "and" MERQUAT S "by NALCO, quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers, crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts, chitosan pyrrolidone carboxylate marketed under the name KYTAMER® PC by AMERCHOL and their mixtures.

The cationic polymer or polymers may represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. implementing them. According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups and the cationic polymer (s) are present in two distinct compositions. According to another embodiment, the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups and the cationic polymer (s) are present in a single composition. The process according to the invention can also employ one or more catalysts for catalyzing the hydrolysis-condensation reactions of the alkoxysilane functional groups of the silicone-functional polymer bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups. The catalyst may be selected from acids and bases. The acid may be selected from mineral acids and organic acids. The acid may in particular be chosen from lactic acid, acetic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid and phosphoric acid, preferably the acid. hydrochloric. The base can be chosen from inorganic bases and organic bases. The base may be chosen from ammonia and sodium hydroxide. The catalyst may be present in the composition comprising the silicone-functional polymer (s) bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, or it may be mixed at the time of use with the composition comprising the silicone-patterned polymer (s). carriers of alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, or alternatively be sequentially applied to the hair before or after the composition comprising the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups. Alternatively, the catalyst may be present in a composition comprising the cationic polymer when separated from the silicone-functional polymer (s) bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups. The catalyst (s) may represent from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.01% to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (s). ) containing. The composition (s) used in the process according to the invention may be aqueous or anhydrous. If the composition or compositions are aqueous, they preferably comprise less than 5% water, better still less than 3% water, and still less preferably less than 2% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition or compositions used in the process according to the invention may comprise one or more organic solvents, preferably chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters and silicones, and mixtures thereof. The alcohols are linear or branched C 1 -C 6 monohydric alcohols or polyols.

The esters can be natural or synthetic. The esters may especially be chosen from vegetable oils and esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohols, such as isopropyl myristate. The alkanes may in particular be chosen from linear or branched C 6 -C 15 alkanes and paraffin oils.

The silicones may in particular be chosen from cyclic silicones containing from 4 to 6 silicon atoms and linear polydimethylsiloxanes. Preferably, the organic solvent is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, isopropyl myristate, ethyl adipate and acetate. of ethyl, linear silicones of low molecular weight or cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, the solvent is chosen from ethanol, isopropanol and glycerol. The organic solvents that can be used in the compositions used in the process of the invention are liquids which preferably have a viscosity at 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure less than or equal to 100 ° C. When present, the organic solvent or solvents may represent from 10 to 99.8% and preferably from 30 to 98% by weight, better still from 35 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition which contains them.

The composition or compositions may be in the form of a solution, a dispersion or an emulsion. The silicone-functional polymer bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups may be emulsified in oil-in-water, water-in-oil or multiple emulsion emulsion. The composition or compositions used in the process according to the invention may also contain one or more additives chosen from conditioning agents, nonionic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants, vitamins and pro-vitamins whose panthenol, water-soluble and fat-soluble sunscreens, fillers and solid particles such as, for example, inorganic and organic pigments, colored or unstained, pearlescent and opacifying agents, flakes, mineral fillers, dyes, sequestering agents, agents plasticizers, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, basifying agents, inorganic and organic thickeners, antioxidants, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, emollients, hydroxy acids, penetration agents, perfumes and preservatives. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compositions used in the process according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired. by the addition envisaged. The composition or compositions used in the process of the invention may be in the form of foam, gel, serum, cream, paste, wax, liquid lotion or lacquer.

The composition (s) may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol device. When they are packaged in an aerosol-type device, the liquid phase / propellant weight ratio of the pressurized composition (s) is preferably between 50 and 0. , 05, and especially between 50 and 1. For aerosol formulations, any liquefiable gas typically used in aerosol devices will be used as the propellant. In particular, use will be made of dimethyl ether, C 3 -C 5 alkanes, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons, halogenated or non-halogenated and volatile, which is usually used in aerosol devices.

Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air or mixtures thereof can also be used as the propellant. Preferably, the compound (s) constituting the propellant gas used are chosen from non-halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes such as propane, n-butane and isobutane, and halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes, and especially chlorinated and / or or fluorinated, such as 1,1-difluoroethane, and mixtures thereof. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the propane gas alkane (s) are non-halogenated. Even more preferably, the propellant is dimethyl ether or a mixture of propane, n-butane and isobutane. In the case of foam aerosols, the composition introduced into the aerosol device may for example be in the form of a lotion, dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aerosol device, form foams to be applied to the keratin materials. These foams are preferably sufficiently stable not to liquefy quickly and preferably must also disappear quickly, either spontaneously or during the massage used to penetrate and / or distribute the composition on keratin materials and more particularly the hair and / or the hair.

In the case of foam aerosols, the composition (s) may also contain at least one cationic, nonionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant. The propellant gas is present in the composition (s) used in the process according to the invention in proportions ranging, preferably, from 1 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 50% by weight. and preferably from 2 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition which contains it. The aerosol device used to condition the composition (s) used in the process of the invention may be in two compartments, consisting of an external aerosol container having an internal pouch sealed to a valve. The composition is introduced into the inner bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to release the product in the form of a spray through the orifice of a nozzle. Such a device is marketed for example under the name EP SPRAY by the company EP-SPRAY SYSTEM SA. Said compressed gas is preferably used at a pressure of between 1 and 12 bar, more preferably between 9 and 11 bar. The composition or compositions are applied to dry or wet hair. Depending on the type of hairstyle desired, it is applied in combination with a heating tool or at room temperature.

The heating tool may be a hair straightener, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a vagueness iron, a helmet, a hair dryer. The hair treatment method may comprise applying thereon a composition comprising compounds a) and b) as defined above, or sequentially applying two compositions comprising respectively for at least one compound a) and for at least one compound b) and optionally to apply simultaneously or sequentially one or more catalysts chosen from basic compounds, organic or inorganic, especially ammonia, sodium hydroxide, organic or inorganic acids, in particular hydrochloric acid, oleic acid or lactic acid, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the composition comprising compound b) is applied before the composition comprising compound a). According to a particular embodiment, the application can be made in a time. In this case, a composition containing both one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), will be applied, one or more cationic polymers, preferably at least one organic solvent, and preferably less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and optionally one or more catalysts as defined above. In this embodiment in a time, the composition applied to the hair may result from the mixing of a composition comprising one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), a solvent, and less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, and a composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined above, one or more cationic polymers being present in one or more other of the two compositions.

According to another embodiment, the application can be carried out in two or three stages: in a step (A) the composition comprising one or more catalysts as defined above is applied, in a step (B) the composition comprising one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), preferably at least one organic solvent, and preferably less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more cationic polymers being present in at least one of the two compositions or in a third composition applied in a step (C). In the two-step embodiment (A) and (B), step (A) can be carried out, then step (B), or step (B) and step (A), with or without intermediate drying. Preferably, step (A) is carried out, followed by step (B). In the three-step embodiment (A), (B) and (C), step (C) will preferably be performed before step (B). In these particular embodiments, intermediate drying is preferably carried out before step (B). The method according to the invention can be implemented from one or more compositions packaged in a multi-compartment device comprising either: a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more silicone-patterned polymers carrying alkoxy functional groups; (aminomethyl) -silyl and one or more cationic polymers, preferably at least one organic solvent, and preferably less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; and a second compartment containing a composition comprising one or more catalysts, namely: a first compartment containing a composition comprising one or more silicone-patterned polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably at least one organic solvent and preferably less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition; a second compartment comprising one or more cationic polymers, preferably at least one organic solvent, and preferably less than 5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition, one or more catalysts that may be present in the one or the other of the compositions contained in the first and the second compartment, or in a composition contained in a third compartment. The device may be for one-time or two-time application. In the case of an application in one time, the compositions of the first and second compartments can be delivered simultaneously at the time of application.

The present invention finally relates to the use of one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I) as defined above, and of one or more cationic polymers for the treatment of the hair, and in particular for the shaping of the hair.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples which are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention. EXAMPLES The following compositions 1 to 20 were carried out, the contents being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition: Examples of compositions C1 containing a silicone-functional polymer bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups: Examples 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Polymer (laa) 5 Polymer (I ba) 5 Polymer (Ica) 5 5 10 10 32 Polymer (Ida) 5 Polymer (Idb) 5 Polymer (Idc) 5 Isopropanol 95 90 68 95 Cyclopentadecamethylsiloxa No. 95 95 95 90 95 95 Examples 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Polymer (laa) Polymer (Iba) Polymer (Ica) Polymer (lcb) Polymer (Icc) Polymer (lcd) Polymer (Ica) Ida) Polymer (Idb) Polymer (Idc) Polymer (Idd) Isododecane 95 95 95 95 95 95 95 Undecane / tridecane 95 95 Compositions 21 and 22 can likewise be prepared.

Examples in the form of aerosol systems Examples 21 Polymer (Ica) 4.4 Polymer (Ida) 17.6 Isopropanol 50.6 37.4 Dimethyl ether 45 Examples of compositions C2 comprising a cationic polymer Examples 23 24 Polydimethyldiallylammonium chloride (1) 2 Polyethyleneimine (2) 2 Water qs 98 (1) Merquat 100 sold by the company Nalco (2) Lupasol G35 sold by the company BASF10 Different modes of application are provided: 1) Application of a composition C2 before the application of a composition Cl can be applied the composition 23 or 24 on a lock of hair, at a rate of 0.2 g / g of hair. After 3 minutes, the wick can be drained, dried with a towel and then dried with a hair dryer. The compositions 1 to 22 can then be applied and the hair dried in the open air. 2) Application of a composition C1 before the application of a composition C2 Conversely, it is possible to first apply a composition 1 to 22 at the rate of 0.1 to 1 g per gram of hair, let the composition act, mop with a towel or an absorbent paper and then apply a composition 23 or 24. 3) Application of at least one of the compositions with a heating tool: After the application of the compositions according to Examples 1 to 22 and / or 23 or 24 as presented in the In two previous modes, it is possible to apply heat to the impregnated locks. Preferably, in the case of stiff locks, a heating tool of the curling iron type will be used for 30 seconds. To evaluate the behavior over time, the locks can be suspended vertically on a paper and their relaxation evaluated over time by marking the end of the wick on the paper. To evaluate the resistance to humidity; the wicks can be introduced into a chamber with controlled humidity (70%) for 24 hours. Preferably, in the case of locks having a crimp, or a tendency to make frizzotis, use a heating tool pliers type to smooth for 30 seconds. To evaluate the durability over time, the locks can be suspended vertically on a paper and their volume evaluated over time by marking the width of the wick on the paper. To evaluate the resistance to humidity, the wicks can be introduced into a chamber with controlled humidity (70%) for 24 hours. 4) Aerosol application After application of a composition C2, the composition according to Examples 21 or 22 may be applied by spraying via an aerosol device to fix a hairstyle in a durable and cosmetic manner.

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. - Hair treatment process using: a) one or more silicone-patterned polymers carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups; b) one or more cationic polymers; the compounds a) and b) can be implemented from one or more compositions. 2. - Process according to claim 1 wherein the silicone-functional polymer or polymers bearing alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups are chosen from the following compounds of formula (I): RaO (I) O-Si Z 2 Z 3 Si-O Si Rb O-Si n Rb formula (I) in which: Z 2 represents a group -CH 2 -NR 3 R 4; Z 3 represents a group OR 5 or R 6; R3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an R7 group; - R1, R5, R6, R7, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C6 alkyl group, and R4 represents a C1-C6 alkyl group or a C5-06 cycloalkyl group; R3 and R4 which can form with the nitrogen atom carrying a 5- to 8-membered heterocycle and having from 1 to 3 heteroatoms, - Ra, Rb, identical or different, represent a C1-C2 alkyl group, n represents a integer greater than 1. 3. - Process according to claim 2, wherein the C1-C6 alkyl groups are methyl or ethyl groups. 4. - Process according to any one of claims 2 and 3 wherein R4 represents a C6 cycloalkyl group such as cyclohexyl. 5. - Method according to any one of claims 2 to 4 wherein n ranges from 1 to 10,000, preferably from 5 to 1000, more preferably from 8 to 400. 6. - Process according to any one of claims 2 to 5, wherein SiRaRb- [OSiRaRdn- of the formula (I) is a unit derived from a linear silicone with a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 200 to 40000, more preferably 400 to 25000. 7. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone-functional polymer or polymers carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), represent from 0.1% to 40% by weight. % by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight and more particularly from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition using them. 8. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the cationic polymer or polymers are chosen from the following polymers, alone or in mixtures: (1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV): -CH 2 R 3 -CH 2 R 3 CH 2 R 3 -CH 2 R 3 (I) (II) (III) (IV) R Ra 0 = 0 0 = N + 0 = N + O - NH A R2A 0 A Rs A \ R2 R (wherein R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a radical CH3; A, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group or a hydroxyalkyl group whose alkyl is C1-C4; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group or a benzyl radical; R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl group; (2) Cationic cellulose derivatives (3) Cationic guar gums (4) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and linear or branched alkyl or hydroxyalkyl divalent radicals, optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur or nitrogen atoms or by aromatic rings or heterocyclics, as well as the products of oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers; (5) The polyaminoamides soluble in water, optionally crosslinked; (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine having two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid; (7) Cyclopolymers of alkyl diallyl amine or of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, in the form of homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI): (CH 2) k - ( Wherein k and t are 0 or 1, the sum of k + t being equal to 1; R9 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical; R7 and R8, independently of each other, denote a C1-C8 alkyl group, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group is C1-C5, an amidoalkyl group whose alkyl is C1-C4; R7 and R8 may also designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group; Y- is an organic or mineral anion; (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units corresponding to the formula: RIO R12-N + -A1-N + -B 1 R11 X R13 X formula (VII) in which: R10, R11, R12 and R13, identical or different , represent linear, branched or cyclic, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, C1-C20 hydrocarbon radicals, linear or branched hydroxyalkyl radicals, the alkyl part of which is C1-C4, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl radicals; substituted by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R14-D or -00-NH-R14-D group with R14 representing an alkyl radical and D an ammonium group (CQ2) k - (CH2) t - CR C (R 9) -CH 2 -H 9 H 2 C CH, R 7 (VI) quaternary, or form together or separately, with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen; Al and B1 represent linear or non-linear radicals, saturated or unsaturated, with C 2 -C 20, optionally substituted or interrupted by one or more aromatic rings, oxygen atoms, sulfur atoms or groups bearing at least one of these atoms; X- denotes an organic or mineral anion; A1, R10 and R12 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; furthermore, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 may also denote a group - (CH2) n -CO-D-OC- (CH2) n- in which n is between 1 and 100 and D denotes a glycol, bis-secondary diamine, bis-primary diamine, ureylene residue; (9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of repeating units of formula (IX) X CH3 (CH2) 2 O (CH2) 2 (IX) CH3: I + 1 + NX D-NH (CH2) p N (CH2) p In which p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 6, D may be zero or may represent a group - (CH 2) r --CO-- in which r denotes a number equal to 4 or to 7, X- is an organic or mineral anion; (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole; (11) Polyamines. 9. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the cationic polymer or polymers represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2% to 10% by weight and more particularly from 0.5% by weight. at 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition employing them. 10. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups and the cationic polymer (s) are used from two compositions, the composition comprising the cationic polymer being preferably used before the composition comprising the silicone-functional polymer (s) carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups. 11. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the one or more compositions used comprise at least one organic solvent, preferably chosen from alcohols, alkanes, esters, silicones and mixtures thereof, preferably chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, glycerol, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, isopropyl myristate, ethyl adipate, ethyl acetate, linear low-weight silicones molecular or cyclic silicones such as cyclopentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof, more preferably from ethanol, isopropanol, glycerol and mixtures thereof. 12. - Process according to the preceding claim characterized in that the organic solvent or solvents represent from 10 to 99.8%, preferably from 30 to 98% by weight, better from 35 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition implementing them. 13. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compositions comprising compounds a) and b) comprise less than 5% water by weight, preferably less than 3% water by weight. more preferably less than 2% water by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 14. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, employing one or more catalysts, the catalyst or catalysts being preferably chosen from basic compounds, organic or inorganic, in particular ammonia, sodium hydroxide, organic or inorganic acids, especially hydrochloric acid, oleic acid or lactic acid, and mixtures thereof. 15. - Process according to claim 14, characterized in that the catalyst or catalysts are present in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition containing them. 16. - Method according to the preceding claims, which further comprises a step of heating the hair by means of a heating tool selected from a straightening iron, a curling iron, a cranberry iron, a vaguest iron, a helmet or a hair dryer. 17. - Use of one or more silicone-functional polymers bearing alkoxy- (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I) according to claim 2, and of one or more cationic polymers for the treatment of hair, and in particular for shaping the hair. 18. The use as claimed in claim 17, in which the silicone-functional polymer or polymers carrying alkoxy (aminomethyl) -silyl functional groups, preferably of formula (I), and the cationic polymer (s) are present in the same composition. .