FR2975900A1 - Treating straightened keratin fibers, comprises applying a composition comprising carboxylic acid and non-cellulosic polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Treating straightened keratin fibers, comprises applying a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acid or salified form and non-cellulosic polymer to the straightened keratin fibers, where the composition has a concentration of >= 2% and a pH of 3-8.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for the treatment of keratinous fibers, and in particular to a method for treating keratin fibers that have been defrosted. BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Two techniques are generally used to obtain a permanent deformation of the hair. They are based on a disruption of the disulfide bonds - S-S- present in keratin (cystine).

The first technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of the hair consists in firstly making the opening of the disulfide bonds using a composition containing a reducing agent (reduction step), then after having preferably rinsed the hair, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair previously tensioned by hair curlers or others or shaped or smoothed by other means, an oxidizing composition also called fixer (oxidation step), in order to give the hair the desired shape.

This technique allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair, or their shaping, straightening, curing or smoothing. The second technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of hair consists in performing an operation called lanthionization, using a composition containing a base belonging to the family of hydroxides. It leads to replacing disulfide bonds (-CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -) by lanthionine bonds (-CH 2 -S-CH 2 -). The compositions generally used for lanthionization contain as a base a hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide and lithium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and guanidinium hydroxide are the two main agents used for shaping or straightening naturally frizzy hair.

Compared to the first technique described above using a reducing agent, this lanthionization technique does not require a fixing step, since the formation of lanthionine bridges is irreversible. It is therefore carried out in a single step. These two techniques make it possible to perform either the waving of the hair, or their shaping, straightening, curing or smoothing. However, the lanthionization technique is mainly used for shaping naturally frizzy hair.

40 The treatments for lasting shaping of keratinous fibers and in particular the straightening treatments degrade the hair significantly. In addition, the hair straightening performance obtained is not always satisfactory. The straightening is not perfect, the hair remains too voluminous and often have a permanent crimp hair straightening treatment. Acidic treatments in post-treatments are known to allow the neutralization of the hair and the scalp after alkaline straightening treatment.

Document US2005 / 0048004 discloses in particular a straightening method in which a composition in the form of a mousse is applied to straightened hair, the styling mousse comprising a carboxylic acid, in particular 0.6% of glutamic acid or 0.4 % citric acid, the pH of the composition being between 3 and 8.20 is also known from WO9300882 a straightening process which comprises a step of acid rinsing hair stripped by a composition comprising between 0.1 and 5% by weight an acid selected from citric acid, maleic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, and phosphoric acid, from 0.1 to 5% by weight of a thickener selected from hydroxyalkylcelluloses, between 0.1 and 10% of a wetting agent selected from nonionic surfactants, between 0.001 and 1% of a pH indicator and between 0.1 and 8% of laureth 23 as an emulsifier. The acidic rinse composition can also be applied between two applications of relaxers to temporarily smooth out regrowth.

There is still a need to provide a process for treating keratin fibers which improves the straightening of the fiber remanently and which reduces the overall volume of the hair.

The subject of the invention is therefore a process for the treatment of keratin fibers, in which a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acidic or salified form, at a concentration greater than or equal to 1%, is applied to the keratinized defibrillated fibers. at least one non-cellulosic polymer, the pH being less than or equal to 8.

The term "keratin fibers" is understood to mean keratinous fibers having undergone straightening, decreping or smoothing treatment using either a reducing agent or a hydroxide. Preferably, the defatted keratinous fibers of the invention are fibers having undergone a treatment of straightening with a hydroxide.

A second object of the application is the use of a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acidic or salified form to reduce the volume of the hair. A third object of the application is the use of a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acid or salified form to increase the remanence of a straightening.

The treatment method according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the overall volume of hair straightened, to reduce the mass effect of the hair, to increase the remanence of straightening and also to obtain a touch without asperities.

In what follows the expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

The composition used as part of the hair straightening process according to the invention comprises at least one carboxylic acid.

By carboxylic acid is meant the simple carboxylic acids, the polycarboxylic acids, especially the dicarboxylic, dicarboxylic amino, tricarboxylic acids, the (poly) hydroxy (poly) carboxylic acids, in particular the α-hydroxylated or di-hydroxylated carboxylic acids which can of course be used alone or in mixture. As carboxylic acids which may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of citric, maleic, succinic, aspartic, glutamic, lactic, malic and tartaric acids. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the process of the present invention, the acid used is citric acid.

The carboxylic acids used in the invention may be present in the composition, partially or totally, in the form of a salt thereof.

The salts that can be used can be derived from the combination of the acids of the invention with an organic or mineral base, and preferably a mineral base. Organic bases that may be mentioned include amines and in particular alkanolamines. As inorganic bases, mention may be made of ammonia and alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides. Preferably the inorganic bases are alkali hydroxides and even more preferably sodium hydroxide leading to the sodium salts.

As salts of these acids, mention may be made of sodium citrate, sodium maleate, sodium succinate, sodium aspartate, sodium glutamate, sodium lactate, sodium malate, sodium tartrate and the like. sodium.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the process of the present invention, the acid salt used is sodium citrate.

The concentration of carboxylic acid (s) or salt (s) of carboxylic acid (s) in the composition is between 1% and 50%, preferably between 1 and 10%, more preferably between 2 and 5%, the concentration of acid salts being expressed in acid equivalent.

The composition used within the framework of the hair straightening process according to the invention comprises at least one non-cellulosic polymer.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "non-cellulosic polymer" means a polymer that does not comprise a cellulose unit in its structure.

The non-cellulosic polymer may be nonionic, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic. In the composition used according to the invention, the polymer (s) may be solubilized or unsolubilized, that is to say in the form of solid or liquid dispersions.

These polymers can be synthetic or natural.

They may be in the form of random polymers, in the form of block polymers, in the form of pseudo-block polymers or gradient polymers.

The non-cellulosic polymer may be selected from thickening polymers, fixing polymers, opacifying polymers, conditioning polymers, or from mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "opacifying polymer" is understood to mean a polymer that is insoluble in the composition and makes it possible to render opaque or to increase the opacity of the composition into which it is introduced. As an opacifying polymer, mention may be made of polystyrene emulsified in water at 40%, in particular SYNTHRON® MODAREZ OS-197. For the purposes of the present invention, "fixing polymers" means polymers capable of conferring a shape to a hair and / or maintain a shape brought to a hair. The fixing polymers are preferably anionic, nonionic or amphoteric.

The anionic fixing polymers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5,000,000.

The carboxylic acid-derived groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or di-carboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula: -COOH CC in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, Al denotes a methylene group, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl or benzyl group, R8 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl or carboxyl group, R9 denotes a hydrogen atom, a lower alkyl group, a group -CH2-000H, phenyl or benzyl. In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.

The anionic fixing polymer (s) with carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are chosen from: A) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer chosen from ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acid esters acrylic or methacrylic, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications Nos. 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate. C20, for example, lauryl, such as that marketed by ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM and methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product marketed under the name LUVIMER® 100 P by the company BASF company; the methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers in aqueous dispersion, marketed under the name AMERHOLD® DR 25 by the company AMERCHOL, may also be mentioned by way of example; in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, Al denotes a methylene group, optionally linked to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as Oxygen or sulfur, R7 is hydrogen, phenyl or benzyl, R8 is hydrogen, lower alkyl or carboxyl, R9 is hydrogen, lower alkyl, group -CH 2 -OOOH, phenyl or benzyl. In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups. The anionic fixing polymer (s) with carboxylic groups that are preferred according to the invention are chosen from: A) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer chosen from ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters and acid esters acrylic or methacrylic, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated such as described in particular in the Luxembourg patent applications Nos. 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C1-C4 alkyl methacrylate. C20, for example, lauryl, such as that marketed by ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM and methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate terpolymers such as the product marketed under the name LUVIMER® 100 P by the company BASF company; the methacrylic acid / acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers in aqueous dispersion, marketed under the name AMERHOLD® DR 25 by the company AMERCHOL, may also be mentioned by way of example;

B) Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a saturated carboxylic acid , linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted and crosslinked, or another monomer vinyl ester, allyl or methallylique a carboxylic acid a- or 13- cyclic. Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1,222,944, 1,580,545, 2,265,782, 2,265,781, 1,564,110 and 2,439,798. A commercial product in this class is the 28-29- 30 marketed by the company National Starch.

C) Copolymers derived from C 4 -C 8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric and itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB Patent No. 839,805. Commercial products are especially those sold under the names GANTREZ® AN or ES by the company ISP. copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally containing one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin or acrylic or methacrylic ester groups; acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified.

These polymers are for example described in French patents Nos. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the Applicant.

D) polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups. The polymers comprising the sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrene-sulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamido-alkylsulphonic units. These polymers can be chosen in particular from: salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular weight of between about 1,000 and 100,000, and copolymers of vinylsulphonic acid with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone. the salts of polystyrene-sulphonic acid, such as the sodium salts sold, for example, under the name Flexan® 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719. - Polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid. polyesters containing sulphonic groups, such as the AQ resins (AQ 55, AQ38, and AQ48) proposed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL.

According to the invention, among the above-mentioned anionic polymers, the preferred polymers are acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / n-tributylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD® STRONG by the company BASF, copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as the vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers provided by Chimex and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as methylvinylether copolymers monoesterified maleic anhydride sold, for example, under the denominatio GANTREZ® by ISP, copolymers of methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate, copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by BASF and copolymers vinyl acetate / crotonic acid sold under the name Luviset CA 66 by the company BASF and polyvinyl glycol-grafted vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers sold under the name ARISTOFLEX® A by the company BASF, the polymer sold under the name Fixate G -100 by the company NOVEON, polyesters with sulfonic groups such as resins AQ (AQ 55, AQ38, and AQ48) proposed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL.

Among the anionic polymers mentioned above, the most particularly preferred are chosen from the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez® ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers sold under the name ULTRAHOLD® STRONG by BASF, the vinyl acetate terpolymers / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid sold by Chimex and the crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold under the name Resin 28- 29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer® MAEX or MAE by the company BASF, the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate sold under the name ACRYLIDONE® LM by the company ISP, the polymer sold under the name Fixate G-100 by the company NOVEON, and polyesters with sulfonic groups such as resins AQ (AQ55, AQ38, and AQ48) proposed by the company Eastman Chemical.

The nonionic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines; homopolymers of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate; homopolymers and copolymers of acrylic esters, such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company Rohm & Haas under the names PRIMAL® AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT® NE 30D, by the company BASF under the name 8845, by the company HOECHST under the name APPRETAN® N9212; copolymers of acrylonitrile and of one or more nonionic monomers chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm &Haas; homopolymers of styrene; styrene copolymers, for example: copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth) acrylate, such as Mowilith® LDM 6911, Mowilith® DM 611 and Mowilith® LDM 6070 products supplied by the company Hoechst, the RHODOPAS products ® SD 215 and RHODOPAS® DS 910 offered by RHODIA CHIMIE; copolymers of styrene, alkyl methacrylate and alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine; copolymers of alkyl acrylate and urethane; polyamides; homopolymers and copolymers of vinyllactam. The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms. According to the present invention, the nonionic polymers with vinyllactam motifs (homopolymers and copolymers of vinyllactam) can be those described in US Pat. Nos. 3,770,683, 3,929,735, 4,521,504, 5,156,762 and 5,506. 315 and in the patent applications WO 94/121148, WO 96/06592 and WO 96/10593. They can be in powder form or in the form of solution or suspension.

Homopolymers or copolymers containing vinyllactam units comprise units of formula: ## STR2 ## in which n is independently 3, 4 or 5. The number-average molecular weight of polymers with vinyllactam units is generally greater than about 5,000, preferably between 10,000 and 1. About 10,000,000, more preferably between about 10,000 and 100,000. Among these polymers, mention may be made of polyvinylpyrrolidones such as those sold inter alia under the name Luviskol® K30 and Luviskol® K90 by the company BASF; polyvinylcaprolactams such as those sold under the name Luviskol® PLUS by the company BASF; poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers such as those sold under the name PVPVA® S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol® VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF; and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers such as, for example, those sold under the name Luviskol® VAP 343 by BASF.

The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene- [alpha], [beta] -dicarboxylic polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary amine groups or secondary. The amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: (1) copolymers with acidic vinyl units and with basic vinyl units, such as those resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound bearing a carboxylic group such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloro acrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least a basic atom, such as, more particularly, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. (2) Polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by a alkyl group, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as esters with primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituents of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides. The acid comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER® or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. (3) polyamino amides crosslinked and acylated partially or completely derived from polyaminoamides of general formula: CO-R 10 -CO-Z (II) in which R 10 represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, a mono aliphatic acid or ethylenically double bonded dicarboxylic acid, a lower alkanol ester having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary amine or bis -secondary, and Z denotes a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the NH (CH 2) x HN p group; where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylenetetraamine or dipropylene triamine; in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (III) above, wherein x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylene diamine, or the group derived from piperazine / In the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the -NH- (CH 2) 6 -NH- group derived from hexamethylenediamine, these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent selected from the group consisting of epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides, bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of 0.025 to 0.35 mole of crosslinking agent per amine group of the polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or a alkanesultone or their salts. The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acids, terephthalic acids, and double acids. ethylenic bond such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. (4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula [R] embedded image in which R 11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate group, methacrylate group, acrylamide or methacrylamide, y and z represent an integer of 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group in such a way that the sum of the carbon atoms in R14 and R15 does not exceed 10.

The polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate.

By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers, such as the product sold under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by Sandoz. (5) polymers derived from chitosan comprising monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas: ## STR1 ## wherein the unit (D) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5 and 50% and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (F), R 16 represents a group of formula: 18 R19

R 17 (O) wherein in which q = 0, R 17, R 18 and R 19, which may be identical or different, each represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkyl amine residue; optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl, carboxyl, alkylthio or sulphonic groups, an alkylthio radical whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the groups R17, R18 and R19 being in this case a hydrogen atom; or if q = 1, R 17, R 18 and R 19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids. (6) The polymers having the units corresponding to the general formula (V) are, for example, described in French Patent 1,400,366: R20 (CH-CH2) COOH CO (V) 1 N-R21 R1 R 4

R23 R22 wherein R20 is hydrogen, CH30, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R21 is hydrogen or lower alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, R22 is hydrogen or lower alkyl C1-C6 such as methyl, ethyl, R23 denotes a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N (R22) 2, R24 representing a group - CH2-CH2 -, -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH (CH3) -, R22 having the meanings mentioned above. (7) The polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan, such as N-carboxymethylchitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan, sold under the name "Evalsan" by the company Jan Dekker. (8) Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX type chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula: -DXDXD- (VI) where D denotes a group / \ NN and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the non-main chain substituted or substituted with hydroxyl groups and may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (VII) where D denotes a group / \ N N and X denotes the symbol E or E 'and at least once E'; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betained by reaction with the chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. (9) (C1-C5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above that are most particularly preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold. under the names AMPHOMER®, AMPHOMER® LV 71 or LOVOCRYL® 47 by the company National Starch and those of the family (4) such as methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethyl carboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers sold for example under the name DIAFORMER Z301 by the SANDOZ company.

The fixing polymers may also be chosen from anionic or nonionic polyurethanes, optionally silicone. As polymers of the polyurethane type, mention may be made of the polymers Luviset Pur and Luviset Si Pur proposed by the company BASF. According to the invention, it is also possible to use anionic or nonionic polymers of the grafted silicone type, comprising a polysiloxane part and a part consisting of a non-silicone organic chain, one of the two parts constituting the main chain of the polymer and the another being grafted onto said main chain.

These polymers are for example described in patent applications EP-AO 412 704, EP-A-0 412 707, EP-AO 640 105 and WO 95/00578, EP-A-0 582 152 and WO 93/23009 and the US Patents 4,693,935, US 4,728,571 and US 4,972,037. Other examples of grafted silicone polymers are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connection link, mixed polymeric units of the poly (meth) acrylic acid type and poly (alkyl) (meth) acrylate), and polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, via a thiopropylene type connecting member, polymeric units of the polyisobutyl (meth) acrylate type. . As another type of non-polyurethane silicone polymer, mention may be made of the Luviflex® Silk product marketed by BASF; VS 70 and VS 80 products offered by the company 3M.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "conditioning polymer" is intended to mean a polymer which makes it possible to improve the cosmetic state of the keratin fibers, in particular with regard to ease of disentangling and softness to the touch.

The conditioning polymers are preferably cationic polymers. The cationic polymer (s) that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair treated with detergent compositions, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-0 337 354. and in the French patent applications FR-A-2 270 846, FR-A-2 383 660, FR-A-2 598 611, FR-A-2 470 596, FR-A-2 519 863 and FR-A -2875 503.

The preferred cationic polymer or polymers are chosen from those which contain, in their structure, units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups which may, for example, be part of the main polymer chain or may be borne by a lateral substituent directly. connected to it.

Among the cationic polymers, there may be mentioned more particularly the polymers of the family of polyamines, polyaminoamides and polyammonium quaternaries. Among these polymers, mention may be made of:

(1) Homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides, crosslinked or not, and comprising at least one of the following units of formulas (I), (II), (III) or (IV): R 3 R 3 -CH 2 O R 3 NH 1 AA 1, 1,

R / R 4 R 5 O A R 3 NH 1 A (IV) in which R 1 and R 2, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and preferably methyl or ethyl R 3, which may be identical or different, each denote a hydrogen atom or a CH 3 group; ; A, which may be identical or different, each represents a linear or branched alkyl group of 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group of 1 to 4 carbon atoms R4, R5 and R6, which are identical. or different, each represents an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or a benzyl group and preferably an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms. The polymers of family (1) may further contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetones acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen by lower alkyls ( C1-C4), acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these polymers of family (1), mention may be made of copolymers of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide, such as that sold under the name HERCOFLOC by Hercules, the copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976 and sold under the name BINA QUAT P 100 by the company CIBA GEIGY, the copolymer of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulfate sold under the name RETEN by the company HERCULES, vinylpyrrolidone copolymers l acrylate or methacrylate dialkylaminoalkyl guaternized or not, such as the products sold under the name "GAFQUAT" by the company ISP such as "GAFQUAT 734" or "GAFQUAT 755" or Well the products called "COPOLYMER 845, 958 and 937". These polymers are described in detail in French Patents 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, the terpolymers of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate 1 vinylcaprolactam vinylpyrrolidone such as the product sold under the name GAFFIX VC 713 by the company ISP; the vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl dimethylamine copolymers sold in particular under the name STYLEZE CC 10 by ISP, the quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide copolymers such as the product sold under the name "GAFQUAT HS 100" by the company ISP, the crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as the polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, homo or the copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylenebisacrylamide. It is more particularly possible to use a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (20/80 by weight) in the form of a dispersion containing 50% by weight of said copolymer in mineral oil. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE® SC 92" by the company CIBA. It is also possible to use a crosslinked homopolymer of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride containing about 50% by weight of the homopolymer in mineral oil or in a liquid ester. These dispersions are sold under the names "SALCARE® SC 95" and "SALCARE® SC 96" by the company CIBA. (2) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides, especially chosen from guar gums containing cationic trialkylammonium groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt (for example, a chloride salt) of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used.

Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL (3) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and divalent radicals alkylene or hydroxyalkylene straight or branched chain optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as the oxidation and / or quaternization products of these polymers. Such polymers are in particular described in French Patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361. (4) The cationic polyaminoamides soluble in water prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halogenide, epilhalohydrin, diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they contain one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. (5) The polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene polyamines with polycarboxylic acids followed by an alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid-dialkylamino hydroxyalkyl dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes methyl, ethyl or propyl. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of the adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl / diethylene triamine polymers sold under the name "Cartaretine F, F4 or F8" by the company Sandoz. (6) Polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene polyamine and the dicarboxylic acid is between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US Pat. Nos. 3,227,615 and 2,961,347. Polymers of this type are in particular sold under the name "Hercosett 57" by the company Hercules Inc. or under the name "PD 170" or "Delsette 101" by the company Hercules in the case of the adipic acid / epoxypropyl / diethylene triamine copolymer. (7) Alkyldiallylamine or dialkyldiallylammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers having, as the main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (V) or (VI): (CH2) k (CH2) t CR12 C ( R12) -CH2- wherein k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11, independently of one another, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, an amidoalkyl group; lower (ie whose alkyl part is C 1 -C 4), or R 10 and R 11 may designate together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in French Patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. Preferably, R10 and R11 each independently denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms. of carbon. (CH2) 1-CR12 C (R12) -CH2-1 1 H2C ~ + ~ CH2 H2C ,,,, CH2 N / N \ Y Rio R11 Rio V) (VI) (CH2) k (Among the polymers defined herein above, mention may be made of homopolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride, more particularly the homopolymer of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride (INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) sold under the name "MERQUAT® 100" by NALCO (and its counterparts from low molecular weight average weight) and copolymers of dialkyldiallylammonium chloride, more particularly the copolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT® 550" (8) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units responding in formula (VII): wherein: R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic or arylaliphatic groups containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups (i. e) the alkyl portion of which is C1-C4), or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, form heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen. or R13, R14, R15 and R16 each represents a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide group or -CO-O-R17-E or -CO-NH- R17-E where R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also designate a group: - (CH2) n -CO-E'-OC- (CH2) n- in which n denotes a number integer from 0 to 7 and E 'denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH2-CH2- O) x-CH 2 -CH 2 - - [CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -O] y -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) - where x and y each denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined degree of polymerization and single or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X- is an anion such as chloride or bromide. Polymers of this type are described in particular in French Patents 2,330,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and US Patents 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614 and 2,454,547. 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, 4,025,617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4027020. It is more particularly possible to use polymers which consist of repeating units corresponding to formula (VIII): (VIII) in which R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, each denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to 4 about carbon atoms, n and p are integers ranging from about 2 to about 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. Preferably, R13, R14, R15 and R16 each denote a methyl group. As an example of a usable polymer of formula (VIII), mention may be made of hexadimethrin chloride, sold under the name MEXOMERE PO by the company Chimex.

(9) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (IX) ## STR2 ## in which:

p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to about 6, D may be zero or may represent a group

- (CH2) r-CO --- wherein r denotes a number equal to 4 or 7, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. The cationic polymers comprising units of formula (IX) are described in particular in patent application EP = A-122,324 and may be prepared according to the processes described in US Pat. Nos. 4,157,388, 4,390,689 and 4,702,906. 4,719,282.

Among these polymers, those of molecular weight measured by 13C NMR of less than 100000, and of formula (IX) in which

a) D represents a group - (CH 2) 4 -CO-, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR (13C NMR) being about 5600 a polymer of this type is proposed by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOLAD1, b) D represents a group - (CH2) 7-CO - X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR (13C NMR) being about 8100; a polymer of this type is provided by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-AZ1, c) D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by 13C NMR (13C NMR) being about 25500; a polymer of this type is sold by MIRANOL under the name MIRAPOL-A15, d) a block copolymer formed of units corresponding to the polymers described in subparagraphs (a) and (c), proposed by MIRANOL under the names MIRAPOL-9, (13 C NMR molecular weight, about 7800) MIRAPOL-175, (13 C NMR molecular weight, about 8000) MIRAPOL-95, (13 C NMR molecular weight, about 12500). Even more particularly, it is preferred according to the invention the patterned polymer of formula (IX) in which p is equal to 3, D denotes the value zero, X denotes a chlorine atom, the molecular weight measured by NMR of Carbon 13, (13C NMR) being about 25500. (10) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole such as for example the products sold under the names Luviquat FC 905, FC 550 and FC 370 by the company BASF (11) Cationic polyamines such as Polyquart H sold by HENKEL, referred to as "POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL (15) TALLOW POLYAMINE" in the CTFA dictionary. (12) Homopolymers or copolymers of vinylamide and in particular partially hydrolysed vinylamide homopolymers such as poly (vinylamine / vinylamide). These polymers are formed from at least one vinylamide monomer having the following formula: H 2 C = CR 2 NRC (O) R 1

wherein R, R 1 and R 2 are each selected from hydrogen, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl wherein the alkyl portion comprises 1 to 20 carbon atoms. In particular, said monomer may be chosen from N-vinylformamide, N-methyl-N-vinylacetamide and N-vinylacetamide. Poly (vinylamine-N-vinylformamide), as marketed under the name CATIOFAST VMP by the company BASF or under the name Lupamine 9030 by the company BASF, is preferably used. These polymers may be formed, for example, by radical polymerization of a vinylamide monomer and then partial acidic or basic hydrolysis of the amide functions to quaternizable amine functions, as described in applications WO 2007/005577, US Pat. Nos. 5,374,334, 6,426,383 and 6,894,110. (13) Polyurethanes consisting essentially of: (a1) at least one cationic unit derived from at least one tertiary or quaternary amine having at least two reactive functions with labile hydrogen, (a2) at least one nonionic unit derived from at least one polyolefin having at least two reactive functions with labile hydrogen, said polyolefin comprising at least 10 mol% of units comprising at least one C = C (carbon-carbon) double bond, with respect to all the units forming said polyolefin; (b) at least one unit derived from a compound having at least two isocyanate functions. This type of polymer preferably has an elastic nature; By this is meant that said polymer is a macromolecular material which quickly returns to its original shape and size after the cessation of a low stress which has produced significant deformation.

These polymers can be obtained by polycondensation of the compounds carrying reactive functions with labile hydrogen with compounds having at least two isocyanate functions; The term "reactive functions with labile hydrogen" means functions capable, after starting from a hydrogen atom, of forming covalent bonds with the isocyanate functions of compounds comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups. Examples of such functions include hydroxyl groups, primary amine, secondary amine, or thiol groups. Depending on the nature of the reactive functions carrying the labile hydrogen (-OH, -NH 2, -NHR or -SH), the polycondensation leads to, respectively, polyurethanes, polyureas or polythiourethanes. Thus, the polymers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention can be urethane / urea and / or thiourethane copolymers. All these polymers are grouped together in the present application, for the sake of simplicity, under the term polyurethanes. The cationic polyurethane or polyurethanes that can be used in the composition according to the invention therefore comprise at least one cationic unit (a1) resulting from at least one tertiary or quaternary amine having at least two reactive functions with labile hydrogen. The tertiary amine is preferably protonable at a pH chosen between pH 1 and pH 12. By "protonable" is meant that said tertiary amine function can be neutralized at least partially by a neutralizing agent or by a function of the medium in which it is formulated. When the tertiary or quaternary amines forming units (a1) carry more than two functions with labile hydrogen, the polyurethanes obtained have a branched structure.

However, preferably, the tertiary amines or quaternary amines forming units (a1) have only two reactive functions with labile hydrogen and the polyurethanes obtained by polycondensation therefore have a substantially linear structure, It is of course also possible to use a mixture difunctional amines 50 containing; or not, a small proportion of amines carrying more than two reactive functions with labile hydrogen. The tertiary or quaternary amines forming the cationic units (a1) are preferably chosen from compounds corresponding to one or more of the following formulas: HX-RN-Ra XH Rb Rb HX-RN-Ra XH Rb A-Rb Rb N-Rb Rb N-Rb XH + R ± C + R + XH XH + R ± C + R XH A- R'b R'b

Rb Rb N-Rb Rb N-Rb Ra Ra A-XH + Ra4c [R f XH XH + R C [RaXH R'b R'b

in which: - each Ra, independently of each other, represents a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, linear or branched, or C3-C6 cycloalkylene or arylene, or mixtures thereof; these groups may be substituted by one or more halogen atoms and / or comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, P and S; each Rb represents, independently of each other, a linear or branched alkyl group in C1 -C6, or C3-C6 cycloalkyl or aryl, or mixtures thereof; these groups may be substituted by one or more halogen atoms and / or comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, P and S; each R 'b represents a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched alkyl group, C1-C6, or C3-C6 cycloalkyl or aryl, or mixtures thereof; these groups may be substituted by one or more halogen atoms and / or comprise one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N, P and S, m and p are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1; preferably m = 1 and p = 1; each X represents, independently of one another, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or an NH or NRc group, where Rc represents a C1-C6 alkyl group, and -A- represents a physiologically acceptable counterion, and in particular a halide such as chloride or bromide. Preferably, the amines are chosen from compounds corresponding to one or more of the formulas: Rb N-Rb

In which: Ra is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, linear or branched, in particular methylene or ethylene; and / or - Rb is a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl group; and / or - X denotes an oxygen atom. Even more preferably, the amines are of formula: ## STR1 ## in which Ra is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, linear or branched, in particular methylene or ethylene; and Rb is a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl group. Particularly preferred tertiary amines are N-methyldiethanolamine and N-tert-butyldiethanolamine.

Protonable tertiary amines may be neutralized, totally or partially, with a neutralizing agent of the organic acid type comprising at least one carboxylic, sulphonic and / or phosphoric acid function or with a mineral acid. Examples of preferred acids are hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, citric acid, gluconic acid, tartaric acid, lactic acid, phosphoric acid, benzoic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, 2-ethylcaproic acid, behenic acid, betaine hydrochloride, and mixtures thereof. The cationic polyurethane or polyurethanes that can be used in the composition according to the invention also comprise at least one nonionic unit (a2) resulting from at least one polyolefin having at least two labile hydrogen reactive functions, said polyolefin comprising at least 10% by mole. of units comprising at least one C = C (residual) double bond, with respect to all the units forming said polyolefin. Preferably, the polyolefin (s) are nonionic.

Preferably, the labile hydrogen reactive functions are located at the ends of the polyolefin. In particular, said reactive functions with labile hydrogen are hydroxides. Preferably, the number of hydroxide units is close to or equal to 2. More preferably, the polyolefin (s) forming the unit (a2) is chosen from homopolymers and / or copolymers of olefins, carrying at their ends reactive functions with labile hydrogen and having a glass transition temperature (Tg), measured by differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) according to ASTM D3418-97, lower than 10 ° C. The polyurethane or polyurethanes in the composition according to the invention may comprise several units (a2) resulting from several polyolefins, which are identical or different (polyolefin mixtures); however, in this case, each of the polyolefins comprises at least 10 mol% of units comprising at least one C = C double bond. The term "unit" comprising a C = C double bond, a unit which comprises at least one residual C = C double bond, preferably a single double bond; it may be, for example a unit resulting from the polymerization of a butadiene or isoprene unit, all isomeric forms included (cis or trans, 1,2 or 1,4). The polyolefin that can be used can be a homopolymer of olefins. Mention may be made, for example, of homopolymers of 1,2-butadiene, 1,4-butadiene or isoprene, and especially: 1,4-polybutadiene, in their cis and trans forms: HH-CH 2 C C-CH 2 1,2-polybutadiene: [CH 2 -CH (CH = CH 2) -] n

poly (cis-1,4-isoprene): ## STR2 ## Poly (trans-1,4-isoprene): The polyolefin that can be used can also be a copolymer of different olefins (copolymer of olefins), provided that the final polyolefin comprises at least 10 mol% of units comprising at least one C = C double bond. In a first embodiment, said polyolefin may consist exclusively of units comprising at least one C = C double bond. For example, copolymers, especially random copolymers, comprising 1,2-butadiene units and / or 1,4-butadiene units in its cis and / or trans forms, and / or isoprene units, especially cis-1 units, may be mentioned. 4-isoprene and trans-1,4-isoprene, in admixture. In particular, mention may be made of random copolymers (1,2-butadiene / 1,4-butadiene). Preferably, the one or more polyolefins that may be used may be random and hydroxy-terminated and have the following structure: embedded image in which: m, p and q are mole fractions ranging from 0 to 1, and m + p + q = 1; with in particular m ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even from 0.15 to 0.7; p ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even from 0.15 to 0.7; and q ranging from 0.05 to 0.5, or even 0.1 to 0.4; n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, especially from 15 to 50; x = 0 or 1, and X represents a divalent carbon group, in particular a linear, cyclic or branched alkylene group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; as for example a methylene, ethylene, propylene or isopropylene group. They may preferably have a number-average molecular weight Mn ranging from 400 to 50000, preferably from 500 to 30000, in particular from 1000 to 15000, and more preferably from 1500 to 12000. More particularly, mention: - hydroxy-terminated polybutadienes, such as polymers of structure: HO OH with m = 0.6, p = 0.2 and q = 0.2 (mole fractions) and n = 25. We can particularly mention the commercial products "Poly bd R20LM" and "Poly 5 bd R45HTLO" Sartomer. polybutadienes with primary hydroxy terminations, such as the polymers that may be represented by the following structure: HO-CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH which are random copolymers, in particular of 1,4-cis-butadiene and 1,4-trans- butadiene, with m = 0.17, p = 0.65 and q = 0.18 (mole fractions) and n is such that the number-average molecular weight Mn varies from 1000 to 10000, especially from 2000 to 6000 (g. mol-1). We can particularly mention the commercial products KRASOL LBH-P 2000, 3000 15 or 5000 Sartomer. hydroxy-terminated polybutadienes, such as the polymers that may be represented by the following structure: ## STR2 ## which are random copolymers of 1,4-cis-butadiene and 1,4-trans Butadiene, with m = 0.17, p = 0.65 and q = 0.18 (mole fractions), and n is such that the number-average molecular weight Mn varies from 1000 to 12000, especially from 2000 to 10000. (g.mol-1). In particular, mention may be made of KRASOL LBH 2000, 3000, 5000 or 10000 commercial products from Sartomer. In a second embodiment, said one or more polyolefins may further comprise additional units not comprising a C = C double bond. However, these additional units are present in a maximum amount of 90 mol%, since the final polyolefin must comprise at least 10 mol% of units comprising at least one C = C double bond. These additional olefin units can in particular be chosen from the ethylene - (CH 2 -CH 2) n-, propylene - (CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2) n-, isopropylene - (CH 2 CH (CH 3)) n -, and / or butylene units of formula : ## Homopolymers or copolymers of olefins as defined above may undergo, subsequent to the polymerization, a partial hydrogenation of the residual double bonds. This hydrogenation can in no case be total. Indeed, the polyolefin (s) that may be used to form the units (a2) according to the invention must comprise at least 10 mol% of units comprising at least one C = C (residual) double bond, relative to to all the units forming said polyolefin.

They preferably comprise at least 20 mol%, in particular at least 40 mol%, or even at least 50 mol%, preferably at least 80 mol%, and most preferably 100 mol%, units comprising at least one C = C double bond. , especially comprising a single C = C double bond.

This unit content comprising at least one C = C double bond can in particular be determined by the usual techniques, in particular by NMR or by iodine assay. Preferably, the polyolefin (s) that can be used to form the nonionic units (a2) have a number-average molecular mass (Mn) ranging from 400 to 50000, preferably from 500 to 30000, in particular from 1000 to 15000, and even more preferably from 1500 to 12000. Preferably, the polyolefin (s) that may be used in the context of the invention are: homopolymers such as 1,4-polybutadiene and 1,2-polybutadiene; copolymers of structure: ## STR2 ## in which: m, p and q are mole fractions ranging from 0 to 1, and m + p + q = 1, with in particular m ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even 0.15 to 0.7, p ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even from 0.15 to 0.7, and q ranging from 0.05 to 0.5, or even from 0.1 to 0.4, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, in particular from 15 to 50, x = 0 or 1, and X represents a divalent carbon group, especially a linear, cyclic or branched alkylene group, comprising: from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as, for example, methylene, ethylene, propylene or isopropylene The cationic polyurethane (s) used in the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one unit (b) resulting from at least one a compound comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups It may, of course, be a mixture of several compounds comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups, compounds comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups may be be chosen from diisocyanates, or mixtures of a diisocyanate and a polyisocyanate having more than two isocyanate functions, said polyisocyanate preferably representing 0.1% to 40% by weight of said mixture, in particular 0.5% to 35% by weight, or even 1% to 30% by weight, of the weight of said mixture. The compounds comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups may preferably be chosen from aliphatic diisocyanates, cyclic conjugated or otherwise, aromatic or otherwise. They may especially be chosen from methylenediphenyldiisocyanate, methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, toluene diisocyanate, naphthalene diisocyanate, 1,4-butane diisocyanate and 1,6-hexane diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof; preferably isophorone diisocyanate.

Preferably, the polyurethane or polyurethanes that can be used in the composition according to the invention consist essentially of: at least one cationic unit resulting from amines of formula: ## STR2 ## In which: Ra is a divalent C1-C6 alkylene group, linear or branched, in particular a methylene or ethylene group; Rb is a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl group; and X represents a hydrogen atom. at least one nonionic unit resulting from polyolefins chosen from 1,4-polybutadiene and 1,2-polybutadiene homopolymers; or copolymers of the following structure: ## STR2 ## in which: m, p and q are mole fractions ranging from 0 to 1, and m + p + q = 1, with in particular m ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even 0.15 to 0.7, p ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even from 0.15 to 0.7, and q ranging from 0.05 to 0.5, or even from 0 to , 1 to 0.4, n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, in particular from 15 to 50, x = 0 or 1, and X represents a divalent carbon group, in particular a linear, cyclic or branched alkylene group comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a methylene, ethylene, propylene or isopropylene group, at least one unit resulting from aliphatic diisocyanates.

Even more preferably, the polyurethane or polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention consist essentially of: at least one cationic unit resulting from amines of formula: ## STR1 ## in which Ra is a divalent C1-alkylene group -C6, linear or branched, especially a methylene or ethylene group; and Rb is a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group, especially a methyl, ethyl, n-butyl, isobutyl or tert-butyl group; and more particularly at least one cationic unit selected from N-methyldiethanolamine and N-tert-butyldiethanolamine; at least one nonionic unit resulting from polyolefins of structure: HO ((X) X OH) in which: m, p and q are mole fractions ranging from 0 to 1, and m + p + q = 1; with in particular m ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even from 0.15 to 0.7; p ranging from 0.1 to 0.8, or even from 0.15 to 0.7; and q ranging from 0.05 to 0.5, or even 0.1 to 0.4; n is an integer ranging from 10 to 100, especially from 15 to 50; x = 0 or 1, and X = represents a divalent carbon group, especially a linear, cyclic or branched alkylene group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; as for example a methylene, ethylene, propylene or isopropylene group. at least one unit resulting from diisocyanates chosen from methylenecyclohexane diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,4-butane diisocyanate and 1,6-hexane diisocyanate; preferably isophorone diisocyanate. The polyurethanes that can be used according to the invention consist essentially of units (a1), (a2) and (b) as defined above, which implies that it does not comprise any additional units other than these. Among all the polyurethanes mentioned above, the polyurethanes formed by the following monomers: (a1) at least one N-methyl diethanolamine (denoted NMDEA), 30 (a2) at least one ethylene / butylene copolymer are preferably used. nonionic as sold under the name Krasol LBH-P 2000, and (b) at least one isophrone diisocyanate (noted IPDI). Preferably, the amines forming the cationic units (a1) represent from 0.1% to 50%, in particular from 1% to 30%, and more preferably from 5% to 20% by weight, of the total weight of the final polyurethane. . Preferably, the polyolefins forming the nonionic units (a2) represent from 30% to 99% by weight, in particular from 50% to 90%, and more preferably from 60% to 80% by weight, of the total weight of final polyurethane. . Preferably, compounds comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups, forming units (b), are present in a substantially stoichiometric amount with respect to the sum of tertiary / quaternary amines forming units (a1) and polyolefins forming units (a2). ). Preferably, the compounds comprising at least two isocyanate functional groups forming units (b) represent from 1% to 60% by weight, in particular from 5% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 15% to 35% by weight. , the total weight of the final polyurethane. More preferably, the polyurethanes according to the invention are formed from: - 20% to 55%, especially 25% to 50%, or even 30% to 47% molar of tertiary amine or quaternary amine capable of forming the reasons (a1); - 1% to 30%, especially 2% to 25%, or even 3% to 20% molar polyolefin likely to form the units (a2); and - 30% to 65%, in particular 35% to 60%, or even 45% to 55% molar of compound comprising at least two isocyanate functions capable of forming the units (b). Preferably, the molar ratio between (b) and (a1) + (a2) is close to 1.

These polyurethanes and their syntheses are described for example in the patent application FR-A-289 8 603. (14) Other cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or cationic protein hydrolysates, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, and chitin derivatives.

The conditioning polymers are preferably selected from families (1), (2), (7) and (8).

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "thickening polymer" is understood to mean a polymer which introduces at 1% into a pure aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solution containing 30% of ethanol, and at pH = 7, makes it possible to attain a viscosity of at least 100 cps, preferably at least 500 cps, at 25 ° C and at a shear rate of 1 s -1. This viscosity can be measured using a cone / plane viscometer (Haake R600 Rheometer or the like). Preferably, these polymers increase by their presence the viscosity of the compositions in which they are introduced by at least 50 cps, preferably 200 cps, at 25 ° C, and at a shear rate of 1s'.

The non-cellulosic thickening polymers may be ionic or nonionic polymers, associative or not, of natural or synthetic origin.

The non-associative thickening polymers are thickening polymers not containing a C10-C30 fatty chain.

Non-associative non-associative thickening polymers of the aqueous phases are especially chosen from: (i) homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers, (ii) homopolymers or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, (iii) non-cellulosic polysaccharides.

The purely synthetic thickening polymers according to the invention are advantageously polymers or copolymers of acrylic and / or methacrylic acid, such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate and carboxyvinyl polymers. Examples of such polymers or copolymers are in particular the "carbomer" (CTFA) sold by the company Goodrich under the name Carbopol (CARBOPOL 980, 981, 954, 2984, 5984) or SYNTHALEN or the polyglyceryl methacrylate sold by the company GUARDIAN under the name Lubragel or the polyglyceryl acrylate sold under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA.

Polyethylene glycols (PEG) and their derivatives can also be used as thickeners.

The homopolymers and copolymers of crosslinked 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid, the copolymers of acrylamide and of optionally crosslinked ammonium acrylate, the homopolymers and the copolymers and optionally crosslinked methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid partially or completely neutralized optionally crosslinked.

As acrylamide / ammonium acrylate crosslinked copolymers used in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of acrylamide / ammonium acrylate copolymers (5/95 by weight) crosslinked with an olefinic polyunsaturated crosslinking agent, such as that divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers or allylic alcohol ethers of the series of sugars, such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol or glucose.

Analogous copolymers are described and prepared in FR-2,416,723 and US-2,798,053 and US-2,923,692.

In particular, this type of crosslinked copolymer is used in the form of a water-oil emulsion. Such an emulsion is marketed under the name BOZEPOL 25 C by the company HOECHST.

The copolymers of acrylamide and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, used in accordance with the present invention, are copolymers cross-linked by an olefinic polyunsaturated compound, such as those mentioned above, and partially or completely neutralized by a neutralizing agent such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or an amine such as triethanolamine or monoethanolamine.

These particular copolymers are incorporated in the compositions of the invention, preferably in the form of water-in-oil emulsions. Such an emulsion is marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 by the company SEPPIC.

The crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer used according to the invention is more particularly a copolymer obtained by copolymerization of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, followed by crosslinking by a olefinically unsaturated compound, especially methylenebisacrylamide. More particularly, a crosslinked acrylamide / methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer (about 50/50 by weight) is used as a dispersion. This dispersion is marketed under the name "SALCARE SC92" by the company CIBA.

A cross-linked homopolymer of methacryloyl oxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride may be used, preferably in the form of an inverse dispersion. These dispersions 50 are especially sold under the names "SALCARE SC95" and "SALCARE SC96" by the company CIBA.

Uncrosslinked copolymers of methacrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium halide, such as methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride, are, for example, the products sold under the trade names ROHAGIT KF 400 and KF720 by the company Rohm and Haas.

Among the homopolymers or copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers of ester and / or amide type, mention may be made of polyamides, in particular the products sold under the names: CYANAMER P250 by CYTEC (polyacrylamide); copolymers of methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate (PMMA MBX-8C by the company US COSMETICS); butyl methacrylate / methyl methacrylate copolymers (ACRYLOID B66 by the company RHOM & HAAS), polymethyl methacrylate (BPA 500 by the company KOBO); The homo or copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone are in particular chosen from crosslinked vinylpyrrolidone homopolymers such as the ACP-10 POLYMER marketed by ISP; The thickening polysaccharides are chosen in particular from glucans, modified or non-modified starches (such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, corn or rice, from vegetables such as sweet pea, from tubers such as potatoes. or cassava), amylose, amylopectin, glycogen dextrans, mannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans pectic acids and pectins, arabinogalactans, carrageenans, agars, gum arabic, tragacanth gums, ghatti gums, karaya gums, locust bean gums, galactomannans such as guar gums and their derivatives. ionic compounds (hydroxypropyl guar), and mixtures thereof.

In general, compounds of this type which can be used in the present invention are chosen from those described in particular in "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer, Third Edition, 1982, Volume 3, pp. 896-900. and volume 15, pp 439-458 ", in" Polymers in Nature, by EA MacGREGOR and CT GREENWOOD, Editions John Wiley & Sons, Chapter 6, pp. 240-328, 1980 "and in the Industrial Gums - Polysaccharides and their Derivatives, Edited by Roy L. WHISTLER, Second Edition, Academic Press Publishing Inc. ", the contents of these three works are fully included in this application for reference.

Starches, guar gums and their derivatives will preferably be used.

The polysaccharides may be modified or unmodified.

The unmodified guar gums are, for example, the products sold under the name VIDOGUM GH 175 by the company UNIPECTINE, and under the names MEYPRO-GUAR 50 and JAGUAR C by the company Rhodia Chimie.

The modified nonionic guar gums are especially modified with (C 1 -C 6) (poly) hydroxyalkyl groups.

Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, there may be mentioned by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known in the state of the art and may, for example, be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides, such as, for example, propylene oxides, with guar gum so as to obtain guar gum modified with hydroxypropyl groups.

The level of (poly) hydroxyalkylation, which corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum, preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2.

Such nonionic guar gums optionally modified with hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names Jaguar HP8, Jaguar HP60 and Jaguar HP120, Jaguar DC 293 and Jaguar HP 105 by the company Rhodia Chimie or under the name GALACTASOL 4H4FD2 by the AQUALON company or the product GUARDEL D15 sold by the company Lubrizol.

Mention may also be made of carboxymethylhydroxypropyl guar, neutralized to their point of electronic neutrality, for example in acidic medium with hydrochloric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or a mixture, such as BENAQUA 1000 products sold by the company. ELEMENTIS company.

Mention may also be made of carboxylated carrageenans, neutralized at their point of electronic neutrality, for example in acidic medium with hydrochloric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or a mixture, such as SATIAGUM UTC 10 products. SATIAGUM UTC 30, SATIAGEL UME 614, SATIAGEL UTC 508, GARGILL, NUTRICOL GP 312, GELCARIN PC 379 from the company FMC BIOPOLYMER.

Nonionic carrageenans, such as the AQUAGEL product from IKEDA, are also mentioned.

Xanthan gums, neutralized to their point of electronic neutrality, for example in acidic medium with hydrochloric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or a mixture, such as RHODICARE XC products, may also be mentioned, RHODICARE CFT from RHODIA, KELTROL CG-T, KELTROL CG, KELTROL CG-BT from CP KELCO, NOMCORT Z from NISSHIN OILLIO.

Among the thickening polymers useful in the invention include non-cellulosic associative polymers well known to those skilled in the art and in particular of nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric nature.

It is recalled that "associative polymers" are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, to associate reversibly with each other or with other molecules. Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

By "hydrophobic group" is meant a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, hydrocarbon-based radical or polymer comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon group is derived from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group may be derived from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol or decyl alcohol. It can also denote a hydrocarbon polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

Among the associative polymers of the anionic type, mention may be made of: those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit, and at least one fatty-chain allyl ether unit, more particularly those whose hydrophilic unit consists of an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly, with a vinyl carboxylic acid and most preferably with acrylic acid or methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof.

Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of (meth) acrylates, are particularly preferred according to the invention. from lower alkyls, from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty-chain allyl ether, and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate; allyl (meth) acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly) ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylenebisacrylamide.

Among these, the crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, of ethyl acrylate, of polyethylene glycol (10 OE) and of stearyl alcohol (Steareth 10) are particularly preferred, in particular those sold by CIBA under the names SALCARE. SC80® and SALCARE SC90® which are 30% aqueous emulsions of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10).

those comprising i) at least one hydrophilic unit of olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and ii) at least one hydrophobic unit of unsaturated carboxylic acid (C 10 -C 30) alkyl ester type.

Alkyl (C 10 -C 30) esters of unsaturated carboxylic acids useful in the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate, dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate, and dodecyl methacrylate. Anionic polymers of this type are, for example, described and prepared according to US Pat. Nos. 3,915,921 and 4,509,949.

By way of example, mention may be made of the products sold by the company Goodrich under the trade names Pemulen TR1®, Pemulen TR2® and Carbopol 1382®, and even more preferentially Pemulen TR1®, and the product sold by S.E.P.P.I.C. under the name COATEX SX®.

The acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymer sold under the name Acrylidone LM by the company ISP, ACULYN 22® sold by the company Rohm and Haas, which is a methacrylic acid / acrylate terpolymer, may also be mentioned. In particular, it is possible to use partially or totally neutralized forms of the stearyl-ethyl / methacrylate.

For AMPS® Polymers of AMPS® (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid) including amphiphilic random AMPS® polymers modified by reaction with a n-monoalkylamine or a C6-C22 di-n-alkylamine, and such as those described in the patent application WO 00/31154. The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from amphiphilic copolymers of AMPS® and at least one hydrophobic monomer containing ethylenic unsaturation.

It is also possible to use crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS® units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylamide units or (C 8 -C 16) alkyl (meth) acrylate units with respect to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A-750 899; terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mol% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mol% of AMPS® units and from 5 to 80 mol% of n- (C6-C18) alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US-5089578. Mention may also be made of copolymers of completely neutralized AMPS® and of dodecyl methacrylate, as well as copolymers of uncrosslinked and crosslinked AMPS® and ndodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the Morishima articles cited above.

Among the cationic associative polymers, mention may be made of cationic associative polyurethanes, the compound marketed by the company Noveon under the name AQUA CC and which corresponds to the name INCI POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER.

POLYACRYLATE-1 CROSSPOLYMER is the product of the polymerization of a monomer mixture comprising: di (C 1 -C 4) alkylamino (C 1 -C 6) alkyl methacrylate, one or more alkyl esters thereof, C1-C30 and (meth) acrylic acid, a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit), polyethylene glycol / polypropylene glycol 30/5 allyl ether, a hydroxy (C2-C6) alkyl methacrylate, and an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

Mention may also be made of cationic polyvinyl lactam polymers. Such polymers are for example described in the patent application WO-00/68282. As poly (vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, particularly using the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate, the terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate cocoyldiméthyl- méthacrylamidopropylammonium 40, the vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or chloride lauryldiméthylméthacrylamidopropylammonium.

The amphoteric associative polymers are preferably chosen from those containing at least one non-cyclic cationic unit. Even more particularly, those prepared from or comprising 1 to 20 mole% of monomer having a fatty chain, and preferably 1.5 to 15 mole% and more particularly 1.5 to 6 mole%, based on the number, are preferred. total moles of monomers. Amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention are for example described and prepared in the patent application WO 9844012. Among the amphoteric associative polymers according to the invention, the terpolymers acrylic acid / (meth) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride / methacrylate chloride are preferred. of stearyl.

The nonionic associative polymers that may be used according to the invention are preferably chosen from: (a) copolymers of vinyl pyrrolidone and of hydrophobic fatty-chain monomers, examples of which may be mentioned: ANTARON V216® products or GANEX V216® (vinylpyrrolidone / hexadecene copolymer) sold by the company ISP products ANTARON V220® or GANEX V220® (vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer) sold by the company I.S.P. (b) copolymers of methacrylates or of C 1 -C 6 alkyl acrylates and of amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain such as for example the methyl acrylate / stearyl acrylate oxyethylenated copolymer sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the ANTIL 208® name. (c) copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and of hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol methacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer. (d) polyether polyurethanes comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of mostly polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which may be aliphatic sequences alone and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic sequences. (e) polymers having an aminoplast ether skeleton having at least one fatty chain, such as the PURE THIX® compounds proposed by SUD-CHEMIE. (f) associative guar derivatives such as hydroxypropyl guars modified with a fatty chain such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (modified with a C22 alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI; the product MIRACARE XC 95-3 (modified with a C14 alkyl chain) and the product RE 205-146 (modified with a C20 alkyl chain) sold by RHODIA CHIMIE;

Preferably, the polyether polyurethanes comprise at least two hydrocarbon-based lipophilic chains having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic block.

The polyether polyurethanes may be multiblocked, in particular in the form of a triblock. The hydrophobic sequences may be at each end of the chain (for example: hydrophilic central block triblock copolymer) or distributed at both the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers may also be graft or star.

The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain may be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain containing from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Nonionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic blocks, hence the origin of the name.

By extension are also included among the nonionic polyurethane fatty chain polyethers those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic blocks by other chemical bonds.

As examples of fatty-chain nonionic polyurethane polyethers that may be used in the invention, it is also possible to use also the urea-functional Rheolate 205® sold by Rheox or the Rheolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. Mention may also be made of the product ELFACOS T210® with a C12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO.

The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, proposed at 20% solids content in water, can also be used.

It is also possible to use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, especially in water or in an aqueous-alcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by RHEOX. It is also possible to use the product DW 1206F and the DW 1206J proposed by the company Rohm & Haas.

Mention may also be made of the polyether-terminated polyetherethane polyetherethane RHEOLATE FX 1100, marketed by the company ELEMENTIS. By way of example, mention may also be made of the polymer DERMOTHIX 100 sold by the company ALZO, a molecule comprising two oxyethylenated units, each linked to a C18 hydrocarbon group at the end of the chain and connected to one another via a sequence polyurethane.

The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci 271, 380, 389 (1993).

Even more particularly, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane obtainable by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) from stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polycondensate of polyethylene glycol with 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, alcohol stearyl and methylenebis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis (4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), 35% by weight in a propylene glycol mixture. (39%) and water (26%)].

Preferably, the polymers of the invention are chosen from homopolymers and copolymers containing ethylenically unsaturated monomers, non-cellulose polysaccharides such as optionally modified guar or xanthan gums and polyurethanes.

Preferably, the compositions of the invention contain at least one thickening polymer and / or at least one opacifying polymer. Even more preferably, the compositions of the invention contain at least one thickening polymer. The composition comprises between 0.01 and 50% by weight of one or more non-cellulosic polymers, preferably between 0.5 and 10%, more preferably between 1 and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition generally comprises one or more solvents. These solvents may be selected from water, C 1 -C 4 alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol, propylene carbonate, polyols such as propylene glycol, glycerol and the like. polyol ethers, acetone, benzyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition is aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic, the preferred solvent being water.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactant (s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from cationic, anionic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic non-silicone surfactants, silicone surfactants and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 0.01% by weight of surfactant (s), relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains from 0.05 to 20% by weight of surfactant (s), more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more fatty substances. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), that is to say -definition of solubility less than 4%, and preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than cm% by weight. They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as chloroform, ethanol or benzene.

Preferably, the fatty substances of the invention are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, fatty esters, silicones and fatty ethers, or mixtures thereof. They can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The fatty substance or fats are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, the useful composition contains a fatty substance, preferably a liquid fatty substance. Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from liquid alkanes, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid fatty acids, liquid fatty acid esters, liquid esters of fatty alcohol, mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic oils, fluid silicones, or mixtures thereof.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

As regards the alkanes, the latter comprise from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, are linear or branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane, undecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam®; isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane. partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; as fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC® PC1" and "FLUTEC® PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl®" by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M.

As regards the liquid fatty alcohols, the latter are advantageously saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. By way of examples, mention may be made of isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol.

The liquid fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are chosen more particularly from oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. To be considered as fatty substances in the compositions, the fatty acids must not be in the form of soap. that is, they must not be salted by an organic or mineral base.

The esters are preferably esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 10 -C 26 aliphatic mono- or polyacids and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 6 aliphatic mono or polyalcohols. Among the monoesters, one can; ethyl palmitates and isopropyl alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, ethyl ..

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate; diisostearyl adipate; di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate; triisopropyl citrate; triisocetyl citrate trisostearyl citrate trilactate glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; octyl osononanoate; isononyl isononanoate. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl palmitates, isopropyl, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate, butyl, dioctyl malate, and isononyl isononanate.

The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention are in the form of oils.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane sold under the name VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures. Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE® SILICONE FZ 3109 sold by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR2 ## Si-O- with D ': Si-O-CH3 C8H17 Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon may also be mentioned, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 carbon atoms; silicon and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10-6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone, silicones entering this class. are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; the oils of the MIRASIL® series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1.10-5 to 5.10 m.sup.2 / s at 25.degree. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE® oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . some oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The composition used in the process of the invention has a pH ranging from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 5, even more preferably from 3 to 4.

The composition may comprise pH adjusters other than the carboxylic acids of the invention. PH adjusters may be acidifying or alkalizing agents.

Acidifying agents include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, sulfonic acids.

Among the alkalinizing agents that may be mentioned, by way of example, are ammonia, alkaline carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines and their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxides and following formula:

Where W is a propylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; Ra, Rb, Rc and Rd, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or C1-C4 or C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl.

Preferably, the pH adjusters may be selected from alkaline agents such as ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline hydroxide, such as 2-amino-2-methyl 1-propanol or the acidifying agents such as phosphoric acid or hydrochloric acid.

The composition of the invention may be in the form of foam, gel, serum, liquid lotion or lacquer.

The composition may be packaged in a pump bottle or in an aerosol device.

When packaged in an aerosol type device, the liquid phase / propellant weight ratio of the pressurized composition of the present invention is preferably between 50 and 0.05, and in particular between 50 and 1.

For aerosol formulations, any alkane, whether halogenated or not, and volatile, usually used in aerosol devices, will be used as propellant.

Preferably, the compound (s) constituting the propellant gas used are chosen from non-halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes such as propane, n-butane and isobutane, and halogenated C 3 -C 5 alkanes, and especially chlorinated and / or or fluorinated, such as 1,1-difluoroethane, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the propane gas alkane (s) are non-halogenated. Even more preferably, the propellant is a mixture of propane, n-butane and isobutane.

In the case of foam aerosols, the composition introduced into the aerosol device may for example be in the form of a lotion, dispersions or emulsions which, after dispensing from the aerosol device, form foams to be applied to the keratin materials.

These foams must be stable enough not to liquefy quickly and must also disappear quickly, either spontaneously or during the massage used to penetrate and / or distribute the composition on keratin materials and more particularly the hair and / or hair .

For aerosol formulations, the propellant may be any liquefiable gas typically used in aerosol devices. Dimethyl ether, C3-5 alkanes, chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbons such as 1,1-difluoroethane, and mixtures thereof, such as, for example, mixtures of dimethyl ether and C3-5 alkanes, are especially chosen. , and mixtures of 1,1-difluoroethane and dimethyl ether and / or C3-5 alkanes. Carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air or mixtures thereof can also be used as the propellant. Preferably, the propellant used is dimethyl ether or C3-5 alkanes, and in particular propane, n-butane and isobutane, and mixtures thereof.

The propellant gas is present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging preferably from 1 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 1.5 to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 30% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

The aerosol device used to condition the composition of the invention may be in two compartments, constituted by an external aerosol can comprising an internal bag hermetically sealed to a valve. The composition is introduced into the inner bag and a compressed gas is introduced between the bag and the can at a pressure sufficient to release the product in the form of a spray through the orifice of a nozzle. Such a device is marketed for example under the name EP SPRAY 20 by the company EP-SPRAY SYSTEM SA. Said compressed gas is preferably used at a pressure of between 1 and 12 bar, more preferably between 9 and 11 bar.

The application of the composition according to the invention may be carried out at room temperature or with a heat input, for example by means of a hairdryer, a helmet or a straightener a flat-nose pliers.

The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more adjuvants chosen from cellulosic polymers, ceramides and pseudo-ceramides, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sunscreens, silicone or non-silicone, pearlescent agents. and opacifying agents, sequestering agents, non-polymeric conditioning agents, solubilizing agents, antioxidants, penetrating agents, perfumes, peptizers, preserving agents, direct and oxidation dyes, organic pigments or minerals, hair-forming agents (thiolated organic, non-thiolated organic reducing agents, alkaline agents, etc.), and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field.

Those skilled in the art will be careful to select any additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acidic or salified form, at a concentration greater than or equal to that, is applied to relaxed hair at room temperature (preferably at a temperature of between 22 and 27 ° C.). at 1% and at least one non-cellulosic polymer, the pH being less than or equal to 8.

In a preferred embodiment, the straightened hair has been stripped beforehand by a straightening composition containing an alkaline agent, especially sodium hydroxide or guanidine. The straightening composition containing an alkaline agent may be any commercial, professional or public straightener, based on soda or guanidine (Dark and Lovely or Soft Sheen Carson are the preferred straighteners). They can be of different strengths: resistant hair (strong), weakly sensitized (regular) or very sensitized (mild).

After straightening, the hair is rinsed with water and possibly washed with a shampoo.

The relaxed hair treatment composition is then applied to wet or dry hair. Preferably, the composition is applied to wet hair. When applied to dry hair, the hair has been dried with a hair dryer, helmet or in the open air.

The composition is left on the hair for 5 minutes to 2 hours, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes, preferably for 10 to 30 minutes, more preferably for about 20 minutes. During the break time of the treatment, the hair may be covered or not by a towel, a scarf, or any other coating and kept under heat or not by a helmet, or a hair dryer.

The hair can then be rinsed and washed with a shampoo. The hair is then dried with a hairdryer, helmet or in the open air.

Another care treatment can be applied before or after the composition according to the invention. The process according to the invention may also comprise a step of smoothing the hair with a smoothing iron. The iron straightener is preferentially applied at the end of treatment on dry medium hair to finalize the aesthetics of the hairstyle.

The application may be repeated as many times as necessary after straightening, after each shampoo, each day, or only after each straightening treatment.

Concrete examples illustrating the invention will now be given. Table 1 Composition Ex 1 Ex 2 Ex 3 Ex 4 Ex 5 Ex 6 Ex 7 Ex 8 Ex 9 Control citric acid 2 - - - - - - - - Citrate - 2 - - - - - - - sodium Acid - - 5 - - - - - - aspartic acid Succinate of - - - 5 - - - - - sodium X *** - - - - 1,5 5 - - - Acid - - - - - - 2 - - Hydrochloric acid - - - - - - - - 2 - phosphoric alcohol 0.5 2 4 4 4 4 2 - 2 benzyl Polystyrene in 0.12 0.12 - 0.12 0.12 - 0.12 0.12 0 , 12 emulsion in water at 40% (MODAREZ OS 197) * RHEOLATE - 2.5 2.5 - - 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 FX 1100 ** Preservatives 1.3 1.3 1,3 1,3 1,3 1,3 1,3 1,3 1,3 Castor oil 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1,6 1, 6 pH adjuster QS pH QS OS OS OS pH pH pH if required pH spontaneous pH pH 7 pH pH 7 spontaneous spontaneous spontaneous (sodium hydroxide or 3.5 annealed 3.5 3.5 ne hydrochloric acid) water qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp qsp * marketed by SYNTHRON ** marketed by Elementis, polyether-polyether-terminated polyether-ethylene-terminated polyether polyurethane RHEOLATE FX 1100 *** X: acids std: maleic acid, sodium maleate, succinic acid, sodium aspartate, glutamic acid, sodium glutamate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, malic acid, sodium malate, tartaric acid, sodium tartrate.

All afro curly hair is treated with a guanidine alkaline hair straightener marketed under the name Dark and Lovely Moisture System No-lye, regular (medium), with a break time of 20 minutes. The straightening treatment is rinsed with water.

The composition of Example 2 is applied to a half-head, the composition being in the form of serum or cream. On the other half-head is applied the composition of Example 9 which is identical to the composition of Example 2 but which does not include sodium citrate. We let pause for 20 minutes. The hair is then partially dried with a hair dryer for 5 minutes. Two iron stretches are straightened by strand on the whole of the hair.

There is then a clear difference between the treatment comprising the composition of Example 2 and the treatment comprising the composition of Example 9, without sodium citrate: the hair is more root-clad, much less bulky overall and the touch is more pleasant, without asperities, after treatment with the composition of Example 2.

The same protocol is applied to a hair of the same type with the composition of Example 7 which contains an inorganic acid replacing the composition of Example 2. The straightening quality obtained with the composition of Example 7 is identical to that of obtained with the composition of Example 9 without hydrochloric acid. The application of the composition of Example 7 does not improve the straightening performance with respect to the same composition without hydrochloric acid, whereas the composition 2 under the same conditions makes it possible, compared to the composition 7, to reduce the volume, better feel and persistence of straightening.35

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. - Process for the treatment of keratin fibers, in which a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acidic or salified form, at a concentration greater than or equal to 1% and at least one non-cellulosic polymer is applied to the defatted keratinous fibers, the pH being less than or equal to 8. 2. - The method of claim 1 wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid selected from tricarboxylic acids or their salts, dicarboxylic acids or their salts, amino dicarboxylic acids or their salts, monocarboxylic acids or their salts, α-hydroxy carboxylic acids or their salts, di-hydroxylated carboxylic acids or their salts. 3. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one carboxylic acid or a carboxylic acid salt selected from citric acid, sodium citrate, maleic acid, maleate, sodium, succinic acid, sodium succinate, aspartic acid, sodium aspartate, glutamic acid, sodium glutamate, lactic acid, sodium lactate, malic acid, malate sodium, tartaric acid, sodium tartrate. 4. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises citric acid or a salt thereof. 5. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises between 1% and 50% carboxylic acid in acid or salified form, preferably between 1 and 10%, more preferably between 2 and 5% . 6. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the non-cellulosic polymer is a nonionic polymer, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic, soluble or non-soluble in the composition. 7. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the non-cellulosic polymer is a polymer chosen from thickening polymers, fixing polymers, opacifying polymers, conditioning polymers and among their mixtures, preferably from thickening polymers. and opacifiers, better among thickening polymers. 8. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the polymer is chosen from homo and copolymers containing at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, polysaccharides, preferably guar gums, xanthan gums, optionally modified , polyurethanes. 9. - Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises between 0.01 and 50% of one or more non-cellulosic polymers, preferably between 0.5 and 10%, more preferably between 1 and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition has a pH ranging from 3 to 8, preferably from 3 to 5, more preferably from 3 to 4. 44 11. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is left on the keratinous fibers for a period ranging from 5 min to 2 h, preferably from 5 to 30 min, more preferably from 10 to 30 min. min, more preferably for 20 minutes. 12. - Process according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the keratinous fibers have been defracted beforehand by applying a composition comprising an alkali hydroxide. 10 13. - Method according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition is applied to wet hair. 14. - Method according to any one of the preceding claims which further comprises a step of smoothing the hair with the iron to be smoothed. 15. - Use of a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acidic or salified form to reduce the volume of the hair. 16. - Use of a composition comprising at least one carboxylic acid in its acidic or salified form to increase the remanence of a straightening. 15