FR2994838A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for cleaning/conditioning keratin materials such as hair, comprises modified/unmodified starches, low density hollow type organic particles insoluble in water, amphoteric polymers, and antidandruff agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises one or more modified or unmodified starches, one or more low density hollow type organic particles insoluble in water, one or more amphoteric polymers comprising repeating units derived from (meth)acrylamide type monomer, repeating units derived from (meth)acrylamidoalkyltrialkyl ammonium type monomer and repeating units derived from (meth)acrylic acid type monomer, and one or more antidandruff agents.

Description

Cosmetic composition comprising a modified or unmodified starch, low density organic particles, a particular amphoteric polymer and an anti-dandruff agent The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising at least one modified starch or not, at least one type of organic particles that are insoluble in the water and low density, at least one particular amphoteric polymer, and at least one antidandruff agent. It also relates to its use for the cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials such as hair, scalp and skin. In the field of hair hygiene, dandruff problems affect up to 50% of the world's population. The appearance of films is troublesome, especially from an aesthetic point of view. There are care products that can limit these phenomena. However, these solutions are not always effective enough. In addition, conventional care products keratin materials and especially hair and scalp, for example, conditioners or masks, are most often in the form of creams more or less viscous. Similarly, cleaning products keratin materials such as shampoos, are usually in the form of more or less viscous liquids, such as gels and creams. But these products are difficult to dose, especially because they tend to escape between the fingers or to escape from their packaging, which can be very inconvenient when they come into contact with clothing, for example when trips. To modify the texture, and in particular to make it more compact, the conventional means consist in using thickeners, but this is often done to the detriment of the cosmetic effects of the composition. In addition, the thicker conditioning compositions often have the disadvantage of requiring a lot of rinsing water to remove the excess product on the hair. In many countries where access to water is limited, the flushing time and thus the quantity needed to rinse the product are key indicators of the qualities of use of a composition. In addition, hair care compositions, whether products to rinse or not, are largely composed of water, surfactants and polymers. These raw materials do not always make it possible to incorporate other desired raw materials or at the desired rate. Indeed, such incorporation can sometimes lead to destabilization phenomena such as flocculation or sedimentation of particles.

With regard to the rinsed compositions, the anti-dandruff agents, which are only slightly deposited on the keratinous fibers, are generally removed at the time of the following washing. Thus, the application of these compositions must be renewed after each wash, to effectively treat the hair and scalp, and facilitate their conditioning. In order to overcome some of these problems, strong cosmetic formulations exist. However, they have the disadvantage of being divisible, difficult to disintegrate in water at the time of use and difficult to distribute during application on keratin materials. There is therefore a need for skincare compositions for keratinous materials, which do not flow, which are more compact and can be molded, which require little water for rinsing and which make it possible to avoid phenomena of flocculation or sedimentation of the skin. particles.

The desired compositions must be easy to apply to keratin materials, of great lightness and great softness. In addition, they must make it possible to deposit antidandruff agents effectively and homogeneously on the scalp. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that a cosmetic composition comprising the combination of starch (s) modified or not, water insoluble organic particles, and low density, amphoteric polymer (s) ( s), and dandruff agent (s), allowed to solve the problems mentioned above and to treat the hair effectively and lastingly, and thus facilitate their conditioning. In particular, such a composition makes it possible, on the one hand, to significantly limit or even prevent the appearance of the films, on the other hand, to confer good cosmetic properties on the hair. The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising: one or more modified or non-modified starches; one or more types of water-insoluble organic particles of low density; one or more particular amphoteric polymers as described herein; below, and - one or more anti-dandruff agents. The composition according to the invention is stable, ie does not exhibit flocculation or sedimentation of particles, and has a very unusual texture. The composition preferably has a low density at 25 ° C, ie less than 1, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.9, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.8, more preferably from 0.2 to 0.6. and a great softness to the touch. It behaves like a deformable solid (or modelable) non-stick more or less firm. The composition also has a fresh feel during application.

By "cool touch" is meant in the sense of the present invention, a feeling of freshness when taking the formula in the wet hands. The solid behavior of the composition according to the invention allows easy handling of the product and ease of transport. In particular, it is not likely to escape from its packaging including during transport. The texture being very modelable, the composition is easily prehensible and does not flow between the fingers. It is very easily dosable and applicable. The composition can be easily fractionated by hand in order to take only the necessary amount of product. In particular, this composition may be packaged in the form of a single dose and for example in the form of small cubes or berlingots. The composition according to the invention also has great comfort in the application. In particular, there is no sagging of the composition, unlike conventional compositions, which may irritate especially the face and eyes. The absence of sagging is very appreciated in the case of permanent and colorations, as well as for shampoos intended for children. In addition, the composition disintegrates quickly and easily in contact with a preferably aqueous liquid.

In the sense of the present invention, disintegration is understood to mean disintegration with the aid of a liquid and not a disintegration to the touch, as is the case with certain eye shadow makeup compositions that can be removed with a finger or with a brush. This disintegration using a liquid is in fact a destructuration of the solid, with solubilization or dispersion of the particles in the liquid. This composition also makes it possible to significantly reduce the production of films with good efficiency and good conditions of use as described above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of the cosmetic composition according to the invention for cleaning and / or conditioning keratin materials, such as the hair and the scalp, and the skin. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the example which follows. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to ...".

Moreover, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more". According to the invention, the cosmetic composition comprises: one or more modified or non-modified starches; one or more types of water-insoluble organic particles of low density; one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: ) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type of, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units derived from a monomer acid of (meth) acrylic acid type, and one or more anti-dandruff agents. The starch (s) usable in the present invention are more particularly macromolecules in the form of polymers consisting of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these motifs and their assembly make it possible to distinguish between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the plant origin of the starches.

The starch molecules used in the present invention may be from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. Thus, the starch (s) may come from a vegetable source selected from corn, peas, potato, sweet potato, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is preferably from the potato. It is also possible to use the hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above. The starches are generally in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, the size of the elementary particles ranges from 3 to 100 microns. The starches used in the composition of the invention may be chemically modified by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, heat treatments. More particularly, these reactions can be carried out as follows: - pregelatinization by bursting the starch granules (for example drying and cooking in a drying drum); oxidation by strong oxidants leading to the introduction of carboxyl groups into the starch molecule and to the depolymerization of the starch molecule (for example by treating an aqueous starch solution with sodium hypochlorite); crosslinking with functional agents capable of reacting with the hydroxyl groups of the starch molecules which will thus be bonded together (for example with glyceryl and / or phosphate groups); alkaline esterification for the grafting of functional groups, in particular C 1 -C 6 acyl (acetyl), C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl (hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl), carboxymethyl, octenylsuccinic. In particular, it is possible to obtain, by means of crosslinking with phosphorus compounds, mono-starch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) 2 type), diamidon phosphates (of the Am-O-PO- (OX) -O-Am type). or even triamidon (of the type Am-O-PO- (O-Am) 2) or mixtures thereof. X denotes in particular alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as those of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, amino-3 propanedio1-1,2, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline. The phosphorus compounds may be, for example, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate. In particular, use will be made of diamidon phosphates or compounds rich in diamidon phosphate, such as the product proposed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (hydroxypropylated gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (acetylated gelatinized manioc diamidon phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA by NATIONAL STARCH (hydroxypropylated cornstarch phosphate gelatinized).

According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups may be bonded to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups may be of carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups may be of primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type. The amphoteric starches are in particular chosen from compounds of the following formulas: ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## St. Embedded image in which: St-0 represents a starch molecule, R, identical to the formula ## STR2 ## or different, represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, R ', identical or different, represents a hydrogen atom, a methyl group or a -COOH group, n is an integer equal to 2 or 3, M, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal such as Na, K, Li, NH 4, a quaternary ammonium or an organic amine, R "represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms.

These compounds are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 5,455,340 and 4,017,460. The starches of formula (I) or (P) are especially used as amphoteric starches. 2-Chloroethylaminodipropionic acid modified starches are more particularly used; it is (I '') (I '') to say the starches of formula (I) or (I ') in which R, R' , R "and M represent a hydrogen atom and n is equal to 2. Mention may in particular be made potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, sold under the reference STRUCTURE SOLANACE by the company NATIONAL STARCH. The term "0-carboxymethyl starch" denotes a starch which has been modified by substitution, in free hydroxyl groups, of a hydrogen with a carboxymethyl -CH 2 COOH group. It may be present as such, or in salt form, for example an alkali metal salt. O-carboxylethyl starches may be prepared, for example, by reacting a starch with monochloroacetic acid, or an alkaline salt of monochloroacetic acid (e.g., the sodium salt). Preferably, a 0-carboxymethyl starch is used in the form of an alkali metal salt, and more preferably in the form of a sodium salt. Preferably, the 0-carboxylmethylated starch is prepared from starch from the potato. O-carboxylmethyl starch may also be crosslinked in whole or in part. Preferably, it is partially crosslinked. The crosslinking of the starch can be carried out for example by heating the starch, or by reacting it with crosslinking agents such as phosphates, glycerol. Even more preferably, the 0-carboxymethylated starch is a sodium salt of starch, in particular of potato, 0-carboxymethylated and partially crosslinked. Such a product is for example marketed under the name PRIMOJEL by the company AVEBE.

Preferably, the starch (es) used in the invention is or are modified, and better chosen from modified starches, in particular from potatoes, such as starches, in particular from potatoes. O-carboxymethylated. The starch (s) modified (s) or not is or are present in an amount ranging preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, better from 2 to 6 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Modified or non-modified starches which can be used in the invention serve, in particular, as absorbing agents, namely compounds capable of rapidly trapping a large quantity of water. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "absorbent agent" means any compound having a static water absorption capacity, at room temperature (25 ° C.), greater than or equal to 3 times its weight. Preferably, the absorbing agents are selected from compounds having a static water absorption capacity greater than or equal to 5 times its weight, and preferably greater than or equal to 15 times its weight. The test for measuring said static water absorption capacity is as follows: at room temperature, the test compound is placed in a beaker in an amount of x grams; water is added in an amount of 3x grams. Let stand, without shaking, for 1 minute.

If there is no more free water (supernatant water) after said minute, the compound can be considered as an absorbent agent within the meaning of the invention. The absorbent agent makes it possible to obtain a composition in the form of a solid, in particular deformable, which is easily disintegrated using a diluent which is generally water, cold or hot, but which can also be water added with one or more cosmetically acceptable polar solvents, such as alcohols having 2 to 20 carbon atoms (isopropanol, ethanol in particular), propylene glycol, or water added with one or more surfactants. It is also possible to use more complex aqueous media. The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one absorbent agent different from the modified starches or not. It is usually a hydrophilic or amphiphilic organic compound. This other absorbent agent may be chosen from wood flours which may be in particular spruce flour or beech flour, preferably spruce flour. Preferably, the average particle size of the wood flours is less than 250 μm. Such products are sold in particular by the Parisian Society of Sawdust under the name T140 (spruce meal) or H160 / 0 (beech flour).

The total amount of absorbent agent (s), including the starch (s) modified (s) or not, is generally from 2 to 20% by weight, preferably from 2 to 10%, better from 2 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more types of water insoluble organic particles of low density. By "low density particles" is meant particles having a density of less than 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.4, more preferably less than 0.1 and more preferably less than 0.06. These low density particles make it possible to confer in particular on the composition of the invention an airy and light appearance. They play the role of structuring agent. In order to obtain a solid composition with a pleasant and soft feel, it is preferable to use particles having an average particle size of from 1 to 250 μm, for example from 5 to 200 μm, and preferably from 10 to 10 μm. 150 i.tm. This particle size is relative to the largest dimension of the particles. By insoluble in water is meant particles which have a solubility in water at 25 ° C less than or equal to 0.5% better lower than or equal to 0.1%. They can have all possible forms and in particular the shape of beads, fibers of platelets or needles, or even a honeycomb shape, a little rounded.

These particles can be made of different inert materials that do not react chemically with the medium. In particular, these particles do not react with the oils, surfactants, water and the various other constituents of the composition such as the active ones. The water insoluble organic particles, of low density, are advantageously chosen from particles of thermoplastic materials and organic particles of natural origin. The particles of thermoplastic materials are in particular chosen from polyamides such as nylon, polymers or copolymers of acrylonitrile, vinylidene chloride, vinyl chloride and / or acrylic or styrenic monomer, optionally expanded, and microporous microspheres.

The acrylic monomer is, for example, a methyl or ethyl acrylate or methacrylate. The styrenic monomer is, for example, α-methylstyrene or styrene. As nylon particles, the Orgasol particles sold by Atochem can be used. These particles are solid, porous spheres having a diameter ranging from 5 μm to 60 μm. Preferably, the particles of thermoplastic materials are deformable hollow particles of an expanded copolymer of vinylidene chloride and of acrylonitrile, or of vinylidene chloride. , acrylonitrile and (meth) acrylate or styrenic monomer. It is possible, for example, to use a polymer containing 0-60% of units derived from vinylidene chloride, 20-90% of units derived from acrylonitrile and 0-50% of units derived from an acrylic or styrenic monomer, the sum of the percentages. (by weight) being equal to 100%. The acrylic monomer may be methyl or ethyl (meth) acrylate. The styrenic monomer may be styrene or α-methyl styrene. More preferably, the thermoplastic material particles used in the present invention are hollow particles of an expanded copolymer of vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile or vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate. These particles can be dry or hydrated. Preferably, the density of these particles is chosen in the range from 15 to 200 kg / m 3 and better still from 40 to 120 kg / m 3, and more preferably from 60 to 80 kg / m 3. The particles of thermoplastic materials that can be used in the invention are, for example, the microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, sold under the trademark EXPANCEL by Nobel Casco and in particular under the references 551 DE. 12 (particle size D (0.5) of about 12 μm and density of about 40 kg / m 3), 551 DE (particle size D (0.5) of about 15 to 25 μm and density of about 60 kg / m3), 551 DE 50 (particle size D (0.5) of about 40 μm), 461 μm 50 and 642 μm 50 of about 50 μm particle size D (0.5), 551 μm. 80 (particle size D (0.5) from about 50 to 80 μm). It is also possible to use particles of this same expanded terpolymer, having a particle size D (0.5) of approximately 18 μm and a density of approximately 60 to 80 kg / m3 (Expancel EL23) or else of particle size D ( 0.5) of about 34 μm and density of about 20 kg / m3. We can also mention EXPANCEL particles 551 DE 40 d42 (particle size D (0.5) of about 30 to 50 μm and density of about 42 kg / m3), 551 DE 80 d42 (particle size D (0, 5) from about 50 to 80 microns and density of about 42 kg / m 3), 461 DE 20 d 70 (particle size D (0.5) of about 15 to 25 microns and density of about 70 kg / m3), 461 DE 40 d25 (particle size D (0.5) of about 35 to 55 μm and density of about 25 kg / m3), 461 DE 40 d60 (particle size D (0.5 ) of about 20 to 40 microns and density of about 60 kg / m 3), 461 DET 40 d25 (particle size D (0.5) of about 35 to 55 microns and density of about 25 microns. kg / m3), 051 DE 40 d60 (particle size D (0.5) of about 20 to 40 μm and density of about 60 kg / m3), 091 DE 40 d30 (particle size D (0.5) from about 35 to 55 microns and density of about 30 kg / m 3), 091 DE 80 d30 (particle size D (0.5) of about 60 to 90 microns and density of about 30 kilograms / m3). It is also possible to use polymer particles of vinylidene chloride and of acrylonitrile or of vinylidene chloride, of acrylonitrile and of unexpanded methyl methacrylate, such as those sold under the trademark EXPANCEL with the reference 551 DU (particle size D (0). 5) about 10 μm) or 46% (particle size D (0.5) about 15 μm). Among the microporous microspheres that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of those sold by Dow Corning under the name "Polytrap" which are formed from lauryl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymers; or those sold by Seppic under the name 'MICROPEARL'. Other polymer hollow particles that can be used in the invention include polymers and copolymers obtained from esters or acids, itaconic, citraconic, maleic, fumaric, acetate or vinyl lactate. (See for this purpose JP-A-2-112304). Examples of organic particles of natural origin include cork oak bark, and wood from trunks or branches of trees, especially quercus suber or balsa bombax. Preferably, the low density, water insoluble organic particles are selected from the microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, cork oak bark, and wood from the trunk or branches of trees, and more particularly among the microspheres of expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, quercus suber wood and balsa bombax wood. The low density organic insoluble organic particle or particles preferably represent from 2 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, better still from 3 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As indicated above, the cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylamide-type monomer, (ii) one or more units from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, and (iii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid acidic monomer.

Preferably, the units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type (i) of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (II): ## STR1 ## in which: R 1 denotes H or CH 3, R 2 is chosen from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH2OH. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (II).

The unit derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamide type of formula (II) in which R1 denotes H and R2 is an amino radical is particularly preferred. It corresponds to the acrylamide monomer itself.

Also preferably, the units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii) type of the amphoteric polymer are units of the following structure (III): R 3 CY in which: - R 3 denotes H or CH 3, - R 4 denotes a group (CH2) k with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4; - R5 and R6, and R7, identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. Among these units resulting from a monomer of (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, those derived from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride monomer, for which R3 denotes a methyl group, k is 3, R5, R6 and R7 denote a methyl group, and Y- means a chloride anion. Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (III).

Finally, the units derived from an acid monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type (iii) of the amphoteric polymer are preferably chosen from the units of formula (IV): ## STR2 ## in which: R 8 denotes H or CH 3, - R 9 denotes a hydroxyl group or a group -NH-C (CH 3) 2 -CH 2 -SO 3 H.

The preferred units of formulas (IV) correspond to the monomers acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and 2-acrylamido-2-methyl propane sulfonic acid. Preferably, the unit derived from an acid monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type is that derived from acrylic acid, for which R8 denotes a hydrogen atom and R9 denotes a hydroxyl radical. The acid monomer (s) of the (meth) acrylic acid type may be unneutralized or partially or completely neutralized with an organic or inorganic base.

Preferably, the amphoteric polymer of the invention comprises the repetition of only one unit of formula (IV). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the at least one amphoteric polymer comprises at least 30 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer. Preferably, they comprise from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%, relative to the total number of moles of monomers present in the amphoteric polymer. The content of units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type may advantageously be the following: from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol% relative to the total number of moles of monomers present in the polymer amphoteric. The content of units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid acid monomer may advantageously be as follows: from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol% relative to the total number of moles of monomers present in the the amphoteric polymer. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer comprises: from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamide type monomer, more preferably from 40 to 60 mol%, from 10 to 60 mol%, preferably from 20 to 55 mol% of units derived from a (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type monomer, from 1 to 20 mol%, preferably from 5 to 15 mol%, of units derived from an acid monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type, relative to the number of total moles of monomers present in the amphoteric polymer. The amphoteric polymer (s) according to the present invention may also comprise additional units, different from the units resulting from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, of (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (meth) acrylic acid type. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the amphoteric polymer or polymers consist solely of units derived from (i) (meth) acrylamide type (ii) (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and (iii) acid type monomers. (meth) acrylic acid. More particularly, the amphoteric polymer comprises the units derived from the following monomers: (i) acrylamide, (ii) acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride, and (iii) acrylic acid. As examples of particularly preferred amphoteric polymers, there may be mentioned acrylamide / methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride (MAPTAC) / acrylic acid terpolymers. Such polymers are listed in the C.T.F.A.

International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 10th edition 2004, under the name "Polyquaternium 53". Corresponding products are sold under the names MERQUAT 2003 or MERQUAT 2003PR by the company NALCO. The amphoteric polymer according to the invention can be prepared in a conventional manner, by polymerization from its various monomers, according to techniques known to those skilled in the art and in particular by radical polymerization. The amphoteric polymer (s) of the invention are generally present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight, and more particularly from 0.01 to 5% by weight. , 1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to the invention, the composition comprises one or more anti-dandruff agents.

The anti-dandruff agents that can be used according to the invention are chosen in particular from the following families (1) to (10): 1) pyridinethione salts, in particular calcium, magnesium, barium, strontium, zinc and cadmium salts, tin and zirconium. The zinc salt of pyridinethione is particularly preferred. The zinc salt of pyridinethione is especially marketed under the name Omadine Zinc by the company Arch Personal Care. 2) 1-hydroxy-2-pyrrolidone derivatives in particular represented by formula (V); Wherein R 9 is an alkyl group having 1 to 17 carbon atoms, alkenyl having 2 to 17 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having 5 to 8 carbon atoms, a bicycloalkyl group having 7 to 9 carbon atoms; carbon atoms; a cycloalkyl-alkyl group, an aryl group, an aralkyl group with an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, an arylalkenyl group with alkenyl having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, aryloxyalkyl or arylmercaptoalkyl with an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a furylalkenyl group with alkenyl or furyl having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, an alkoxy group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a nitro group, a cyano group or a halogen atom. R10 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, a C2-C4 alkenyl group, a halogen atom, a phenyl group or a benzyl group; Y represents an organic base, an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal ion, an ammonium ion. Compounds of formulas (V) are for example 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-6-methyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4,6-dimethyl-2-pyridone 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-cyclohexyl-2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4- Methyl-6- (methylcyclohexyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2-bicyclo [2,2,1] heptyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4- methyl-6- (4-methylphenyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-64- (4-nitrophenoxy) butyl] -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6 (4-cyanophenoxymethyl) -2-pyridone, 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (phenylsulfonylmethyl) -2-pyridone, and 1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (4-bromo-benzyl) -2- pyridone. The compounds of formula (V) can be used in the form of salts with organic or inorganic bases. Examples of organic bases include alkanolamines of low molecular weight such as ethanolamine, diethanolamine, N-ethylethanolamine, triethanolamine, diethylaminoethanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropanediol; non-volatile bases such as ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylamine, benzylamine and N-methylpiperazine; quaternary ammonium hydroxides, such as trimethylbenzylammonium hydroxide; guanidine and its derivatives, and particularly its alkyl derivatives. Examples of inorganic bases include alkali metal salts, for example sodium, potassium; ammonium salts, alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium and calcium; cationic, tri or tetravalent metal salts, e.g. zinc, aluminum, zirconium. Alkanolamines, ethylenediamine, and inorganic bases such as alkali metal salts are preferred. A compound of formula (V) which is particularly preferred is that for which: R 9 denotes the group CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 CH 3 R 10 denotes a methyl group and X + denotes N + H 3 CH 2 CH 2 OH for example sold under the name Octopirox (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone, monoethanolamine salt) by Hoechst. 3) 2,2'-dithio-bis (pyridine-N-oxide) of formula (VI): ## STR2 ## The compounds of formula (VI) can be introduced into the compositions in the form of inorganic salts. Examples of inorganic salts are magnesium sulfate. 4) trihalocarbamides in particular of formula (VII) below: NHCONH CI Cl (VII) wherein Z represents a halogen atom such as chlorine, or a trihaloalkyl group C1-C4 such as CF3. 5) triclosan represented by the formula (VIII): CI Cl (VIII) Cl 6 OH azole compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrinazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole. 7) antifungal polymers such as amphotericin B or nystatin. 8) selenium sulphides, in particular those of formula S'Ses, x ranging from 1 to 7. 9) extracts of one or more non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria which are not fruiting. The bacterial extracts that may be used according to the invention will be chosen from non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacteria as defined according to the Bergey's Manual of Systemic Bacteriology classification, volume 3, section 23, 9th edition, 1989. Among the bacteria that may be used, mention may be made of particularly bacteria belonging to the order Beggiatoales, including bacteria belonging to the genus Beggiotoa, such as for example various strains of Beggiotoa alba. According to the definition B. alba corresponds to the old names Beggiotoa arachnoidea, B. gigantea, B. leptomiformis, B. minima, B. mirabilis of Bergey's manual, 8th edition. We can also mention the bacteria belonging to the genus Vitreoscilla, which is known to be close and often difficult to discern from the genus Beggiatoa. The bacteria that have just been defined, and many of which have been described, generally have an aquatic habitat, and can be found especially in thermal springs.

Among the usable bacteria include, for example, Vitreoscilla beggiatoides (ATCC 43181) and Beggiatoa alba (ATCC33555). And preferentially according to the invention, the use of the Vitreoscilla filiformis extract, in particular the ATCC 15551 strain, its metabolites and its fractions are claimed.

On the other hand, it is known that the culture of non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacteria is relatively difficult, as is the production of pure cultures. The culture described in patent application WO 94/02158 will be used preferentially.

By extract of non-photosynthetic and non-fruiting filamentous bacteria, it is meant both the culture supernatant, the biomass obtained after culturing said bacteria, the envelopes or fractions of envelopes, or the extracts of the biomass obtained by treatment of this biomass.

To prepare the extract according to the invention, said bacteria can be cultured and then separated from the biomass obtained, for example by filtration, centrifugation, coagulation and / or freeze-drying. In particular, the extracts that can be used can be prepared according to the process described in patent application WO-A-93/00741. Thus, after culture, the bacteria are concentrated by centrifugation. The biomass obtained is autoclaved. This biomass can be lyophilized to form what is called the freeze-dried extract. Any method of lyophilization known to those skilled in the art is used to prepare this extract. The supernatant fraction of this biomass can also be filtered in a sterile container to remove suspended particles. Envelopes or fractions of envelopes, the bacterial wall and possibly the underlying membranes are called here. 10) Other anti-dandruff agents are sulfur in its various forms, cadmium sulphide, allantoin, coal or wood tars and their derivatives, in particular cade oil, salicylic acid, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid, ellagic acid, ellagic acid tannins and allylamines such as terbinafine. Even more preferentially, the anti-dandruff agents that can be used in the invention are chosen from pyridinethione salts, 1-hydroxy-2-pyrrolidone derivatives, 2-2'-dithio-bis (pyridine-N-oxide), selenium sulphides and mixtures thereof. Zinc pyridinethione, (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimethylpentyl) -2-pyridone and its salts, and selenium sulfides are particularly preferred.

The anti-dandruff agent (s) are present in the composition according to the invention in preferential proportions ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises water, or a mixture of water and of one or more organic solvents such as, for example, ethanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isopropanol, glycol ethers such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, butylene glycol, isopropanol, glycol ethers such as mono (di) alkyl (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol and mixtures thereof. In a preferred embodiment, the composition comprises water and does not contain organic solvents.

The composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more surfactants preferably selected from anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising as ionic or ionizable groups only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from -CO 2 H, -SO 3 H, -SO 3 H, -SO 3 -, -H 2 PO 3, -HPO 3 -, -PO 3 -, -H 2 PO 2, -HPO 2 -, -PO 2 -, -POH, -PO groups. -. As examples of anionic surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkylamido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl amide sulphonates and alkyl aryl sulphonates. , alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, monoesters salts of alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, D-galactosideuronic acid salts, alkyl ether-carboxylic acid salts, alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid salts, alkyl amidoether carboxylic acid salts; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds having from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds may be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and polyglycoside-sulphosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl.

When the agent or the anionic surfactants are in the salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt. By way of example of aminoalcohol salts, mention may be made in particular of the salts of mono-, di- and triethanolamine, the salts of mono-, di- or triisopropanolamine, the salts of 2-amino-2-methyl-1- propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. The alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.

The optionally present anionic surfactants may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulfate function. As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may in particular be made of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, alkyl D galactoside uronic acids, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, and alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5%) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO. Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are selected from sulfonated and sulfonated anionic surfactants and mixtures thereof, more preferably from (C 6-24) sulfate and (C 6-24) alkyl ether sulphate salts, and mixtures thereof. When the anionic surfactant (s) is (are) present in the composition according to the invention, their amount is preferably from 1 to 40% by weight, better still from 4 to 30% by weight, and still more preferably from 8 to 30% by weight. at 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that may be used in the present invention may be in particular derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate, and wherein the aliphatic group or at least one of the aliphatic groups is a linear or branched chain having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. Mention may in particular be made of (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkylbetaines such as cocoamidopropylbetaine and (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl- sulfobetaines. Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that may be used, there may also be mentioned the following products of structures (IX) and (X): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N + (Rb) (R) (CH2C00) -) (IX) wherein: Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a group beta-hydroxyethyl, and R, is carboxymethyl; Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (X) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX', X 'represents the group -CH2-COOH, CH2-COOZ', -CH2CH2-COOH, -CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom, B 'represents - (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H or -CH2-CHOH- S03Z% Z 'represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, potassium or magnesium; an ammonium ion; or an ion derived from an organic amine and in particular an aminoalcohol, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane. Ra, represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an Ra-COOH acid preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C 17 and its iso form, a unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds are also classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate di sodium , lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by Rhodia under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate. It is also possible to use compounds of formula (Xa); Ra - NH-CH (Y '') - (CH2) .- C (O) -NH- (CH2) n - (RWRe) (Xb) wherein Y "is -C (O) ) 0H, -C (O) OZ ", -CH 2 -CH (OH) -S0 3H or the group -CH 2 -CH (OH) -SO 3 -Z"; Rd and Re, independently of each other, represent a Z 2 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkaline or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra-C (O) OH, preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil; n and n ', independently of one another, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3. Among the compounds of formula (Xa), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB. Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkyl amidoalkyl (CiC 6) betaines and (C 8 -C 20) alkyl amphodiacetates, the sodium salt of lauryl amino succinamate. diethylaminopropyl and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or as a mixture, cocoylamidopropylbetaine, cocoylbetaine and cocoamphodiacetate.

The composition according to the invention comprises, when present, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) in an amount preferably ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition.

When the surfactant (s) is (are) present, the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic and amphoteric surfactants to the amount of starch (s) modified or not is preferably greater than or equal to 3, more preferably from 3 to 20, more preferably from 3 to 10.

The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additive which may be used in the field of application in question, such as, for example, perfumes, UV filters, preservatives, antioxidants, pH-regulating agents, sequestering agents , anti-free radical agents, moisturizers, reducing agents, conditioning agents other than the amphoteric polymers of the invention, such as cationic polymers, silicones and cationic surfactants, esters, and vitamins. The composition according to the invention may be a shampoo, pre-shampoo, conditioner, hair shaping, permanent shaping or straightening, coloring or bleaching composition, a composition for conditioning the hair or a foaming composition for the skin (body and / or face). The composition according to the invention is preferably rinsed. The composition according to the invention may be in the form of stick, pencil, stick, bread, dough, or even cream. Preferably the compositions of the invention are deformable solids. The compositions of the invention may be prepared by conventional methods in tanks or by extrusion The invention also relates to the use of the composition as defined above for the cleaning and / or conditioning of keratin materials such as hair, the scalp, and the skin. The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition as defined above for the prevention and the cosmetic treatment of films. The invention is illustrated by the following example.

EXAMPLE The composition according to the invention is prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. The amounts indicated are expressed in% by weight of product relative to the total weight of the composition. % by weight Microspheres (vinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile / methyl methacrylate terpolymer) expanded with isobutane (Expancel 551 from AKZO NOBEL) 4.9 Cross-linked sodium carboxylic acid (potato) 4.05 Acrylic acid / MAPTAC / acrylamide terpolymer ( 10/40/50 mol%) to 20% in aqueous solution (POLYQUATERNIUM 53) 2.4 (0.48 MA) Sodium lauryl ether sulphate (2.2 moles of ethylene oxide) in aqueous solution 20, 4 (14.28 MA) Sodium lauryl sulphate powder 4.05 Cocoyl betaine in aqueous solution 5.9 (1.77 MA) Anti-dandruff agent: Vitreoscilla extract 1.6 (0.08 MA) filiformis in aqueous dispersion 5% of dry extract as described in FR2956812 Citric acid, 1 H20 0.2 Dye qs preservatives qs Perfume qs Deionized water qs 100 MA: Active ingredient The ingredients are mixed and a composition in the form of formable paste is obtained. a very good disintegration in the water during application, and a very good rinsability. Applied to the hair, this composition has good cosmetic properties such as a soft touch, a styling effect and a feeling of freshness during application. It has good efficacy against dandruff.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. A cosmetic composition comprising: one or more modified or unmodified starches, one or more types of water-insoluble and low density organic particles, one or more amphoteric polymers comprising the repetition of: (i) one or more units from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, (ii) one or more units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type, and (iii) one or more units derived from a (meth) acrylic acid type acid monomer, and one or more antidandruff agents. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the starch (s) is (are) modified, and preferably chosen from O-carboxymethyl starches. 3. Composition according to claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the starch or starches are present in an amount ranging from 2 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 2 to 10% by weight, better still from 2 to 6% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic particles insoluble in water have a density of less than 1, preferably less than or equal to 0.4. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water insoluble and low density organic particles are chosen from particles of thermoplastic materials and organic particles of natural origin, preferably from microspheres. expanded terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, cork oak bark, and wood from tree trunks or branches, and more particularly from the microspheres of vinylidene chloride expanded terpolymer , acrylonitrile and methyl methacrylate, quercus suber wood and bombax balsa wood. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the particles are present in an amount ranging from 2 to 40% by weight, preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, better still from 3 to 15% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer comprises from 30 to 70 mol% of units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type, from 10 to 60 mol% of units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium type and from 1 to 20 mol% of units derived from an acid monomer of the (meth) acrylic acid type, relative to the total number of moles of monomers present in the amphoteric polymer . 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from a monomer of (meth) acrylamide type (i) of the amphoteric polymer are units of structure (II) following: cH2 0 \ R2 in wherein: R1 is H or CH3, R2 is selected from amino, dimethylamino, tert-butylamino, dodecylamino, or -NH-CH2OH, and are preferably derived from acrylamide. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from a monomer of the (meth) acrylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium (ii) type of the amphoteric polymer are units of structure (III) below: R3 C Y in which: - R3 denotes H or CH3, - R4 denotes a group (CH2) k with k an integer ranging from 1 to 6, and preferably from 2 to 4; - R5 and R6, and R7, identical or different, each denote an alkyl group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; - Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate, and are preferably derived from methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the units derived from an acidic monomer of (meth) acrylic acid type (iii) of the amphoteric polymer are chosen from the units of formula (IV): R8 C R9 (IV) wherein: R8 is H or CH3; R9 is hydroxyl or -NH-C (CH3) 2 -CH2-SO3H, and is preferably derived from acrylic acid. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amphoteric polymer is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight. and more particularly 0.1 and 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anti-dandruff agent or agents are chosen from (1) pyridinethione salts, (2) 1-hydroxy-2-pyrrolidone derivatives, (3) ) 2,2'-dithio-bis- (pyridine-N-oxide), (4) trihalogeno carbamides, (5) triclosan, (6) nitrogen compounds such as climbazole, ketoconazole, clotrinazole, econazole, isoconazole and miconazole, (7) antifungal polymers, (8) selenium sulfides, (9) extracts of one or more non-photosynthetic filamentous non-fruiting bacteria, and (10) sulfur under its control. different forms, cadmium sulphide, allantoin, coal or wood tars and their derivatives, salicylic acid, undecylenic acid, fumaric acid, allylamines. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anti-dandruff agent or agents is present in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.05 to 5%. by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more surfactants, preferably selected from anionic and amphoteric surfactants, and mixtures thereof. 15. Composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the weight ratio of the total amount of anionic and amphoteric surfactants to the amount of starch (s) modified (s) or not is greater than or equal to 3, preferably ranging from 3 to 20, better from 3 to 10. 16. Use of the cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims for cleaning and / or conditioning keratin materials.