FR2992198A1 - Composition, useful to cover the skin without marking visible and/or tactile irregularities e.g. pores of skin, comprises pigments, and a mixture of two distinct linear volatile oils and at least hydrophobic aerogel silica particles - Google Patents

Abstract

Anhydrous cosmetic composition comprises at least 15 wt.% of pigments, and a mixture of two distinct linear volatile oils and at least hydrophobic aerogel silica particles.

Description

The subject of the present invention is an anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition for keratin materials, in particular the skin, capable of covering without marking the relief of the skin and in particular the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin. skin, such as pores. This will particularly be a foundation. Obtaining a makeup result on the skin with a high coverage generally involves the incorporation of a high level of pigments, which often results in undesirable application properties: the texture of the composition becomes pasty and so difficult to spread. The makeup obtained is not homogeneous, areas of different colors appear on the skin, making the makeup unsightly. In addition, the pasty texture is uncomfortable for the user during and after the application of the composition to the skin.

Although silicone oils have made it possible twenty years ago to improve the sensoriality of foundation-type products, the production of such products, covering but without marking the relief and which are pleasant to apply, is often revealed. difficult. Indeed, high coverage and pleasant cosmetic properties are often 2 antagonistic parameters difficult to reconcile.

In addition, products of anhydrous complexion are not appreciated by any type of consumers because of their sometimes oily or oily nature. There is therefore a need to provide pigmented anhydrous makeup compositions with improved cosmetic application properties and an improved makeup result, particularly in terms of coverage without marking. The Applicant has discovered that the use, in a composition comprising a high content of pigments (preferably> 15% by weight), of a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile oils, in particular a mixture of a volatile oil linear silicone and one or more volatile linear alkanes in 07-014, and hydrophobic silica airgel particles, allowed to meet this need. More specifically, the present invention is directed to a makeup composition for keratinous substances, in particular the skin, in the form of an anhydrous composition, making it possible to effectively cover the skin without marking the relief, while maintaining a fluid, pleasant texture use. The object of the invention is, according to a first aspect, an anhydrous cosmetic makeup composition for the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least pigments with a content of at least 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (ii) a mixture of at least two distinct linear volatile oils, and (iii) at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles. According to one particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear silicone volatile oil and at least one linear volatile hydrocarbon oil.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises the combination of a linear silicone volatile oil and one or more volatile linear alkane (s) at 07-014. especially C1-C14.

The composition according to the invention is especially a foundation. It has a texture of airy cream or cream-mousse. The subject of the invention is, according to a second aspect, a cosmetic process for making up the skin intended to cover without marking the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, comprising the application on the skin of a composition such as previously defined. The composition of the invention preferably has a coverage greater than 50, preferably greater than 60 and more preferably greater than 70. In particular, it has a coverage ranging from 70 to 100, in particular from 80 to 100 and more preferably from 90 to 100. Coverage measurement The supports used for the coverage measurement according to the invention are black and white Bioskin plates (Maprecos supplier). The compositions according to the invention are applied to the fingerstall at a rate of 32 mg over a surface of 5 cm in diameter, and then dried for 90 minutes. In particular, the thickness applied is 15pm. The reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and D65 / 10 ° observation, excluding specular component mode) on the black and white backgrounds (3 measurements on each application). The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the space Cl EYxy1931 within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination. The contrast ratio CR, or coverage, is calculated by making the arithmetic mean of Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100. The present invention also aims at a cosmetic process for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin, comprising the application of a composition according to the invention. In particular, said method is intended to cover the skin without marking the relief, in particular without increasing the visibility of the pores.

The composition according to the invention is in anhydrous form, that is to say it comprises less than 4% by weight of water, preferably less than 3%, preferably less than 2%, more preferably less than 1%, even more preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition, or is completely free of water. The composition comprises at least one physiologically acceptable medium. By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium which is particularly suitable for the application of a composition of the invention to keratinous substances, in particular the skin and the lips. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged.

PIGMENTS By pigments, it is necessary to include white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments used according to the invention have an average size greater than or equal to 100 nm. In particular, said pigments have an average size ranging from 100 nm to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 250 nm to 1 μm. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate. Iron oxide and titanium dioxide pigments and their mixtures are preferably used. Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises at least pigments chosen from iron oxides, titanium oxides and mixtures thereof. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30. The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, of the type silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and VVO-A-96/08537.

Advantageously, the pigments may be present in a hydrophobic coated form in the anhydrous composition according to the invention. These are more particularly pigments surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the fatty phase, in particular so that they have good wettability with the oils of the fatty phase. Thus, these treated pigments are well dispersed in the fatty phase.

The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for example a 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine. The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

The pigments will generally be present in the composition in a content ranging from 15 to 30% by weight, preferably from 15 to 25% by weight, in particular from 15 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. The composition may also contain other pulverulent dyestuffs, chosen from nacres and interference pigments.

LINEAR VOLATILE OILS Oil is any liquid fatty substance at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). By "volatile oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium that can evaporate from the skin or lips in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg / cm 2 / min, inclusive.

To measure this evaporation rate is introduced into a crystallizer, with a diameter of 7 cm, placed on a scale located in a large enclosure of about 0.3 m3 temperature-controlled, at a temperature of 25 ° C., and in hygrometry at a relative humidity of 50%, 15 g of oil or oil mixture to be tested. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions per minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing said oil or said mixture, the blades being directed to the crystallizer and at a distance of 20cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of oil remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular intervals.

The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of evaporated oil per unit area (cm2) and per unit of time (minute). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one linear volatile silicone oil.

As linear silicone volatile oils, mention may be made in particular of those having a viscosity of less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and having, in particular, from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular, from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. Volatile silicone oils that can be used in the invention include, in particular, dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least one linear volatile silicone oil of formula (I): ## STR5 ## in which R, identical or different, denotes: a hydrocarbon radical saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, or - a hydroxyl group, one of the radicals R possibly being a phenyl group, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, preferably ranging from 2 to 6, and better still from 3 to 5, said silicone oil of formula (I) containing at most 15 carbon atoms.

Preferably, for the compounds of formulas (I), the ratio between the number of carbon atoms and the number of silicon atoms is between 2.25 and 4.33. The silicones of formulas (I) may be prepared according to known processes for the synthesis of silicone compounds.

Among the volatile linear silicones of formula (I), mention may be made of: a) The following disiloxanes: hexamethyldisiloxane (surface tension = 15.9 mN / m), in particular sold under the name DC 200 FLUID 0.65 cst by the company DOVV CORNING 1,3-di-tert-butyl-1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,3-dipropyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; heptyl pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-trimethyl disiloxane; hexaethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (2-methylpropyl) disiloxane; pentamethyl octyl disiloxane, 1,1,1-trimethyl-3,3,3-tris (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1-butyl-3-ethyl-1,1,3-trimethyl-3-propyl disiloxane; pentamethyl pentyl disiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-3- (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (1-methylpropyl) disiloxane; 1,1,3-triethyl-1,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; (3,3-dimethylbutyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methylbutyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; (3-methylpentyl) pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3-dimethyl-3-propyl disiloxane; 1- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,3,3,3-pentamethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-trimethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,1,3,3-tetrakis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1-dibutyl 1,3,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-bis (1-methylethyl) disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetramethyl 3,3-dipropyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-bis (3-methylbutyl) disiloxane; butyl pentamethyl disiloxane; pentaethyl methyl disiloxane; 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl-1,3-dipentyl disiloxane; 1,3-dimethyl-1,1,3,3-tetrapropyl disiloxane; 1,1,1,3-tetraethyl 3,3-dimethyl disiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,3-tripropyl disiloxane; 1,3-dibutyl 1,1,3,3-tetramethyl disiloxane; hexyl pentamethyl disiloxane; b) the following trisiloxanes: octamethyltrisiloxane (surface tension = 17.4 mN / m), sold especially under the name DC 200 FLUID 1 cst by the company Dow Corning 3-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5 5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1-hexyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-heptamethyl-5-octyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-octyl trisiloxane, especially sold under the name "Silsoft 034" by the company OSI; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-hexyltrisiloxane (surface tension = 20.5 mN / m), especially sold under the name "DC 2-1731" by the company Dow Corning; 1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3- (1-ethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (1-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-diethyl-1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (1-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 3- (1,1-dimethylethyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-3,3-bis (1-methylethyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl 1,5-bis (1-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane; 3- (3,3-dimethylbutyl) 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (3-methylbutyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (3-methylpentyl) trisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3- (2-methylpropyl) trisiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-propyl trisiloxane; 3-isohexyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,3,5-triethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentamethyltrisiloxane; 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 3-tert-pentyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl 3,3-dipropyl trisiloxane; 3,3-diethyl-1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyl-trisiloxane; 1,5-dibutyl-1,1,3,3,5,5-hexamethyl-trisiloxane 1,1,1,5; 5,5-hexaethyl 3,3-dimethyltrisiloxane 3,3-dibutyl 1,1,1,5,5,5-hexamethyltrisiloxane 3-ethyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl trisiloxane; 3-heptyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1-ethyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; C) the following tetrasiloxanes: decamethyltetrasiloxane (surface tension = 18 mN / m), sold in particular under the name DC 200 Fluid 1.5 cSt by the company Dow Corning; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-octamethyl 1,7-dipropyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl 5- (1-methylethyl) tetrasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl tetrasiloxane; 3,5-diethyl-1,1,1,3,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,3,5,7-tetraethyl-1,1,3,5,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane; 3,3,5,5-tetraethyl 1,1,1,7,7,7-hexamethyltetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7-nonamethyl 7-phenyltetrasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl 1,1,1,5,5,7,7,7-octamethyl tetrasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,7-nonamethyl-5-phenyltetrasiloxane; d) the following pentasiloxanes: dodecamethylpentasiloxane (surface tension = 18.7 mN / m), sold especially under the name DC 200 FLUID 2 cst by the company DOVV CORNING; 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9-decamethyl-1,9,9-dipropylpentasiloxane; 3,3,5,5,7,7-hexaethyl-1,1,1,9,9,9-hexamethylpentasiloxane; 1,1,1,3,3,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethyl 5-phenyl pentasiloxane; 1-butyl 1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-undecamethylpentasiloxane; 3,3-diethyl-1,1,1,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-decamethylpentasiloxane; 1,3,5,7,9-pentaethyl 1,1,3,5,7,9,9-heptamethylpentasiloxane; 3,5,7-triethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,9,9-nonamethylpentasiloxane; 1,1,1-triethyl 3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,9-nonamethylpentasiloxane; e) the following hexasiloxanes: 1-butyl-1,1,3,3,5,5,7,7,9,9,11,11,11-tridecamethyl hexasiloxane; 3,5,7,9-tetraethyl 1,1,1,3,5,7,9,11,11,11-decamethyl hexasiloxane; tetradecamethyl hexasiloxane; f) hexadecamethylheptasiloxane; g) octadecamethyl octasiloxane. As the preferred silicone volatile oil, it is possible to use: decamethyltetrasiloxane (L4); dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5); 3-butyl 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane; 1,1,1,3,5,5,5-heptamethyl-3-hexyl trisiloxane; and their mixtures.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises at least, as linear volatile silicone oil, oils chosen from pentasiloxanes, in particular a dodecamethylpentasiloxane.

According to one particular form of the invention, the silicone volatile fatty phase of the composition is formed essentially, or even solely, of dodecamethylpentasiloxane (L5); The linear volatile silicone oils may be present in the composition of the invention in a content ranging from 10 to 80% by weight, especially from 20 to 80% by weight, and in particular from 60 to 80% by weight, relative to the weight. total of the composition. This total content comprises in particular the content of volatile dodecamethylpentasiloxane and dimethicone (PDMS) (viscosity <8cst) carrying other compounds such as the silicone elastomers exemplified in the illustrative examples of the invention. According to a particular embodiment, the content of dodecamethylpentasiloxane can range from 5 to 20% by weight, especially from 10 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. According to one particular embodiment, the content of additional volatile silicone oils in the composition, provided in particular by the presence of silicone elastomers carried in a PDMS 5cst, can range from 20 to 60% by weight, in particular from 40 to 60% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of said composition. VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANES The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one or more volatile linear alkanes, especially C 7 -C 14 alkanes. By "one or more volatile linear alkane (s)" is meant indifferently "one or more volatile linear alkane (s) oil (s)". A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The term "volatile linear alkane" that is suitable for the invention is understood to mean a linear, cosmetic alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. (760 mmHg, that is to say 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, especially having an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 1.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.8 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). Still more preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.3 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 0.12 mg / cm 2 / min, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760.degree. mm Hg).

The rate of evaporation of a volatile alkane according to the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can in particular be evaluated by means of the protocol described in VVO 06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below. after.

Is introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance in a chamber of about 0.3 m3 regulated temperature (25 ° C) and humidity (relative humidity 50%) 15 g volatile hydrocarbon solvent . The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, providing ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN, reference 8550 N, rotating at 2700 revolutions / minute) arranged in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the hydrocarbon solvent. volatile, the blades being directed to the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals.

The evaporation profile of the solvent is then obtained by plotting the curve of the amount of product evaporated (in mg / cm 2) as a function of time (in min).

Then we calculate the evaporation rate that corresponds to the tangent at the origin of the curve obtained. The evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm 2) and per unit of time (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure) at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure of 0.3 Pa. at 6,000 Pa. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for The invention has a vapor pressure of from 0.4 to 600 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C). In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure ranging from 1 to 200 Pa at room temperature (25 ° C.). More preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention have a vapor pressure of from 3 to 60 Pa, at room temperature (25 ° C). According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C. The flash point is in particular measured according to ISO 3679. According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms. In a preferred manner, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention comprise from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, the "volatile linear alkanes" suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the "volatile linear alkanes" that are suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg / cm 2 / min, at room temperature ( 25 ° C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and comprise from 8 to 14 carbon atoms. A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin. Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isotope 140 of the carbon (carbon-14), in particular the isotope 140 may be present in a ratio 140/120 greater than or equal to 1.10-16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10-15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.1044, and better still greater than or equal to 1.5.1043. Preferably, the ratio 140/120 is from 6.10-13 to 1.2.10-12. The amount of isotopes 140 in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby Count method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or still Accelerator Mass Spectrometry. Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc. By way of example of alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis VVO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures differing from less a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (O), n-octane (O), n-nonane (O), n-decane (O10), n-undecane (011), n-dodecane (012), n-tridecane (013), n-tetradecane (014), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (013) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (O12) and n-tetradecane (O14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 1497, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile linear alkane alone can be used. It is alternatively or preferentially possible to use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2 .

According to a first embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1. As examples, mention may in particular be made of volatile linear alkanes mixtures C10 / 011, Cl1 / C12 or 012/013.

According to another embodiment, use is made of a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2. As examples, mention may in particular be made of mixtures of linear volatile alkanes 010/012, or 012/014, for a number of carbon n even and the mixture 01 1/013 for an uneven carbon number n.

According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having 10 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of alkanes, is used. 0 1/013 volatile linear or a mixture of 012/014 volatile linear alkanes. Other mixtures comprising more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 7 to 14 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. According to another embodiment of the invention, a volatile linear alkane mixture is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture.

By way of examples of mixtures which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made in particular of the following mixtures: from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, and still more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight, Volatile linear alkane with a n n from 7 to 14 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of volatile linear alkane in Cn + x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, with n + x between 8 and 14, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture. In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the linear volatile oil suitable for the invention is a mixture of linear alkane (s) volatile (s) at 07-014. In particular, this volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention can be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear alkane in Cl 1 (n-undecane), from 20 to 45% by weight; % by weight, preferably 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear alkane in O13 (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture. According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of VVO 2008/155059.

According to another particular embodiment, the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL.

According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL. According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of ndodecane and n-tetradecane is used.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, or even be devoid of cyclic silicone oil.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition may comprise a mixture of dodecamethylpentasiloxane / volatile linear alkanes at a concentration of from 0: 1 to 1: 3, preferably from 2: 1 to 1: 2. In particular, the volatile fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of dodecamethylpentasiloxane / n-undecane-n-tridecane in particular in a weight ratio of dodecamethylpentasiloxane / n-undecane-n-tridecane ranging from 3/1 to 1/3 preferably, from 2/1 to ¼. Taking into account any optional linear volatile additional oils, the composition may comprise a mixture of (dodecamethylpentasiloxane and additional volatile silicone linear oils) / linear volatile alkanes in the range of 07-014 ranging from 10/1. at 1/1, preferably from 8/1 to 3/1. Preferably, the linear silicone volatile oils and the volatile linear alkanes of -00-O04 represent at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight or even 100% by weight of the oily phase of said composition. Advantageously, the volatile fatty phase of the composition is formed essentially, or even solely, of the mixture of dodecamethylpentasiloxane and n-undecane-n-tridecane described above, apart from linear volatile silicone oils that may be provided by other compounds carried by linear volatile silicone oils, as is the case of the exemplified D09041.

Additional oils A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional oil, chosen from non-linear volatile oils and non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon, silicone or fluorinated type. The oils can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises less than 15% by weight, or even less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight of additional oil, in particular of additional non-volatile oil, relative to to the total weight of the composition.

Additional Nonlinear Volatile Oils The nonlinear additional volatile oil that may be used in the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having a flash point ranging from 40 ° C. to 102 ° C., preferably ranging from 40 ° C. to 55 ° C., and preferably ranging from 40 ° C to 50 ° C.

As volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 7 to 16 carbon atoms, mention may in particular be made of branched C 8 -C 14 alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) at C 8 -C 14, isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane. for example, the oils sold under the trade names Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C14 esters such as isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the volatile hydrocarbon oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, in particular from isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, and is especially isododecane. Non-volatile oils According to an advantageous embodiment, a composition according to the invention comprises less than 15% by weight of non-volatile oil (s), in particular less than 10% by weight of non-volatile oil (s). volatile (s), relative to the total weight of the composition. The non-volatile oil may be chosen from oils of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon and / or silicone origin, and mixtures thereof, insofar as they are compatible with the intended use. Nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils such as paraffin or petrolatum oil, isoeicosane, soya, perhydrosqualene, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil may be mentioned. corn, arara, rapeseed, sunflower, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, olive or grain sprouts; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; fatty esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate , 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate or lactate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerol or diglycerol triisostearate ; higher fatty acids such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols such as cetanol, stearyl alcohol or oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol.

As non-volatile silicone oil, mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), optionally phenylated such as phenyltrimethicones, or optionally substituted with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups. ; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof. HYDROPHOBIC SILICA AEROGELS The composition according to the invention further comprises at least silica airgel particles. Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air. They are generally synthesized by sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO2. This type of drying avoids the contraction of the pores and the material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ, and Scherer G.VV., Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990. The hydrophobic silica airgel particles used herein have a specific surface area per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 / g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed in volume mean diameter ( D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, better still from 1 to 1000 μm, preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular from 1 to 30 μm, more preferably from 5 to 25 μm, better still from 5 to 20 μm. pm and even better better from 5 to 15 pm.

According to one embodiment, the hydrophobic silica airgel particles used in the present invention have a size expressed in volume mean diameter (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 30 μm, preferably from 5 to 25 μm. better from 5 to 20 μm and even better from 5 to 15 μm. The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration. The silica airgel particle sizes can be measured by static light scattering using a MasterSizer 2000 commercial particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed on the basis of Mie scattering theory. This theory, which is accurate for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an "effective" diameter of particles. This theory is particularly described in Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, VViley, New York, 1957.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 / g and a size expressed as a mean diameter by volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 μm and even more preferably from 5 to 15 μm. The silica airgel particles used in the present invention may advantageously have a packed density p ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably from 0.03 g / cm 3 to 0.08 g / cm 3, In the context of the present invention, this density can be evaluated according to the following protocol, referred to as the packed density: 40 g of powder are poured into a graduated cylinder; then the specimen is placed on the STAV 2003 device from STAMPF VOLUMETER; the test piece is then subjected to a series of 2500 settlements (this operation is repeated until the difference in volume between two consecutive tests is less than 2%); then the final volume Vf of compacted powder is measured directly on the test piece. The packed density is determined by the ratio m / Vf, in this case 40 / Vf (Vf being expressed in cm3 and m in g). According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume Sv ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 / cm 3, preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 / cm 3 and better still 15 to 40 m2 / cm3.

The specific surface area per unit volume is given by the relation: Sv = Sm x p; where p is the packed density expressed in g / cm 3 and Sm is the specific surface area per unit of mass, expressed in m 2 / g, as defined above. Preferably, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity measured at VVET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g, preferably from 6 to 15 ml / g and better still from 8 to 18 ml / g. at 12 ml / g. The absorption capacity measured at VVet Point, and denoted VVp, corresponds to the amount of oil that must be added to 100 g of particles to obtain a homogeneous paste.

It is measured according to the so-called VVet Point method or method for determining the setting of powder oil described in standard NF T 30-022. It corresponds to the quantity of oil adsorbed on the available surface of the powder and / or absorbed by the powder by measuring the VVet Point, described below: A quantity m = 2 g of powder is placed on a glass plate and then the oil (isononyl isononanoate) is added dropwise. After addition of 4 to 5 drops of oil in the powder, mixing is carried out with a spatula and oil is added until the formation of oil and powder conglomerates. From this moment, the oil is added one drop at a time and then triturated with the spatula. The addition of oil is stopped when a firm and smooth paste is obtained. This paste should be spread on the glass plate without cracks or lumps. The volume Vs (expressed in ml) of oil used is then noted. The oil intake corresponds to the ratio Vs / m. The aerogels used according to the present invention are aerogels of hydrophobic silica, preferably silylated silica (name I NCI silica silylate).

By "hydrophobic silica" is meant any silica whose surface is treated with silylating agents, for example by halogenated silanes such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, in order to functionalize the OH groups by Si-Rn silyl groups, for example trimethylsilyl groups.

Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica airgel particles surface-modified by silylation, reference can be made to US Pat. No. 7,470,725. Hydrophilic silica airgel particles which are surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably of the name NCI Silica silylate, will preferably be used. Examples of hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention include, for example, the airgel marketed under the name VM-2260 or VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass of 600 to 800 m 2 / g. Mention may also be made of aerogels marketed by Cabot under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, 5 ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100 and ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200. The airgel marketed under the trade name VM will preferably be used. -2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m2 / g. Preferably, the particles of hydrophobic silica aerogels are present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight. preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. ADDITIONAL LOADS "Charge" is understood to mean colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic nature, they allow to confer the composition of softness, dullness and uniformity to make-up. The additional fillers may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.3% to 3%. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other form intermediate between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition. According to a particular and preferred embodiment, the composition comprises at least one oil-absorbing filler capable of absorbing and / or adsorbing an oil or a liquid fatty substance such as, for example, sebum (of the skin), distinct from the particles. hydrophobic silica aerogel described above.

This oil-absorbing filler can also advantageously have a BET specific surface area greater than or equal to 300 m 2 / g, preferably greater than 500 m 2 / g, and preferably greater than 600 m 2 / g, and especially less than 1500 m 2 / g . The "BET surface area" is determined according to the BET method (BRUNAUER - EMMET - TELLER) described in "The Journal of the American Chemical Society", vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Appendix D). The BET surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area (therefore micropores included) of the powder. The oil-bearing charge considered according to the invention may be organic or inorganic in nature. The filler may be more particularly chosen from silicas, silylate silicas, polyamide powders (in particular nylon-6), acrylic polymer powders, in particular polymethyl methacrylate, poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate allyl polymethacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer; pearlites; carbonate magnesium, and mixtures thereof. Examples of fillers according to the invention are given below. As silica powder, mention may be made of: 20 - porous silica microspheres, in particular those sold under the name Sunsphere® H53, Sunsphere® H33 by the company Asahi Glass; MSS-500-3H by the company KOBO; the amorphous silica microspheres coated with polydimethylsiloxane, in particular those sold under the name SA Sunsphere® H 33, and the silylate powders, in particular those sold under the name Dow Corning VM-2270 Aerogel Fine Particles by Dow Corning. hollow particles of amorphous silicas, in particular those sold under the name Silica Shells by the company Kobo. precipitated silica powders surface-treated with a mineral wax such as precipitated silica treated with a polyethylene wax and in particular those sold under the name ACEMATT OR 412 by the company Evonik Degussa. As the acrylic polymer powder, mention may be made of: the porous spheres of poly methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate sold under the name Microsponge 5640 by the company Cardinal Health Technologies - the ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer powders / lauryl methacrylate, in particular those sold under the name POLYTRAP® 6603 from the company Dow Corning As polyamide powder, mention may be made of: nylon-6 powder, in particular that sold under the name POMP610 by the company UBE INDUSTRIES. As perlite powder, mention may be made especially of the product sold under the name OPTIMAT 1430 OR by the company VVORLD MINERALS. As a magnesium carbonate powder, mention may be made especially of the product sold under the name Tl PO CARBOMAGEL by the company BUSCHLE & LEPPER 15. Preferably, a composition according to the invention comprises, as additional filler, at least one pearlite powder. Lipophilic Gelling Agents A lipophilic thickening or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be inorganic or organic. Examples of lipophilic thickening agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel V538 from Rheox), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with a C10 fatty acid ammonium chloride. at C22, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V® by the company ELEMENTIS or that marketed under the name "Bentone 38 CE" by the company RHEOX or that marketed under the name 30 Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company ELEMENTIS. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6®, KSG16® and KSG18® by the company SHIN-ETSU, of Trefil E-505C®, Trefil E-506C® or DOW CORNING 9041 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC®, SR DMF10®, SR-DC556®, SR 5CYC gel®, SR DMF 10 gel® and SR DC 556 gel® by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204® and JK 113® by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel® by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least a mono-alcohol or a mono-amine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate copolymers, such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG® by the company ARIZONA CHEMICAL ; galactomannans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C1-C6 alkyl chains, and in particular Ci C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB® by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type such as those sold under the name Kraton® by Shell Chemical Co., or else from the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by the company PENRECO company under the name Versagel® such as, for example, the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and ethylene / propylene / styrene star copolymer in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company CHIBA FLOUR, hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular from C8 to O26, and more particularly from 012 to 022, such as, for example, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one lipophilic gelling agent or thickener, at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer.

The term "non-emulsifying" silicone elastomers defines organopolysiloxane elastomers that do not contain a hydrophilic chain such as polyoxyalkylene or polyglycerolated units.

The non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst. ; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of organopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam. Preferably, the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by crosslinking addition reaction (A2) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B2) diorganopolysiloxane having at least two silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence (02) of platinum catalyst, as for example described in application EP-A-295886. In particular, the organopolysiloxane can be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylpolysiloxane and trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxane in the presence of platinum catalyst. The compound (A2) is the basic reagent for the formation of organopolysiloxane elastomer and the crosslinking is carried out by addition reaction of the compound (A2) with the compound (B2) in the presence of the catalyst (02). The compound (A2) is advantageously a diorganopolysiloxane having at least two lower alkenyl groups (for example at 02-04); the lower alkenyl group can be chosen from vinyl, allyl and propenyl groups. These lower alkenyl groups may be located at any position of the organopolysiloxane molecule but are preferably located at the ends of the organopolysiloxane molecule.

The organopolysiloxane (A2) may have a branched chain, linear chain, cyclic or network structure but the linear chain structure is preferred. The compound (A2) may have a viscosity ranging from the liquid state to the gum state. Preferably, the compound (A2) has a viscosity of at least 100 centistokes at 25 ° C.

The organopolysiloxanes (A2) may be selected from methylvinylsiloxanes, methylvinylsiloxane-dimethylsiloxane the copolymers, dimethylpolysiloxanes comprising dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane copolymers containing dimethylvinylsiloxy end groups, dimethylsiloxane-diphénylsiloxaneméthylvinylsiloxane dimethylvinylsiloxy endings, dimethylsiloxane copolymers, trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylvinylsiloxane trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylphenylsiloxane-methylvinylsiloxane copolymers, dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) polysiloxane, and dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methyl (3,3,3-trifluoropropyl) siloxane copolymers.

The compound (B2) is in particular an organopolysiloxane having at least 2 silicon-bonded hydrogens in each molecule and is therefore the crosslinking agent of the compound (A2). Advantageously, the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of the compound (A2) and the number of silicum-bonded hydrogen atoms per molecule of the compound (B2) is at least 4. The compound (B2) may be any molecular structure, especially of linear chain structure, branched chain, cyclic structure. Compound (B2) may have a viscosity at 25 ° C ranging from 1 to 50,000 centistokes, in particular to be well miscible with compound (A).

It is advantageous that the compound (B2) is added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of silicon-bonded hydrogen atoms in the compound (B2) and the total amount of all ethylenically unsaturated groups in the compound (A2) is in the range of 1/1 to 20/1. The compound (B2) may be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydrogenpolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogenosiloxane copolymers and cyclic dimethylsiloxane-methylhydrogensiloxane copolymers. Compound (02) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid-alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black, and platinum. on support. The catalyst (O 2) is preferably added from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight, more preferably from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of the compounds (A2) and ( B2). Other organic groups may be bonded to silicon in the organopolysiloxanes (A2) and (B2) described above, such as, for example, alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl, xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group, a mercapto group.

According to a preferred embodiment, the non-emulsifying silicone elastomer is mixed with at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil (preferably non-cyclic) to form a gel. In these gels, the non-emulsifying elastomer is in the form of non-spherical particles.

Non-emulsifying elastomers which can be used are those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-31", "KSG-32", " KSG33, KSG-41, KSG-42, KSG-43, KSG-44 by Shin Etsu, DC 9040, DC9041, DC 9509, DC9505, "DC 9506" by Dow Corning, "GRANSIL" by Grant Industries, "SFE 839" by General Electric. According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-emulsifying silicone elastomer in the form of a gel in which the silicone elastomer is dispersed in a linear silicone volatile oil (PDMS 5cst), such as DC9041 (15.5% in PDMS5cst). from Dow Corning.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition comprises at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer, preferably in the form of a gel in a non-cyclic silicone oil, advantageously with an active ingredient (dry) content ranging from 2 to 12% by weight, in particular from 4 to 10% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition.

Cosmetic Adjuvants The compositions of the invention may also contain one or more of the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as moisturizing agents; emollients; lipophilic actives; anti-free radical agents; sequestering agents; antioxidants; conservatives; alkanizing or acidifying agents; perfumes ; lipophilic gelling agents; film-forming agents, in particular film-forming polymers (for compositions in a maintained axis); organic or physical sunscreens, fat-soluble dyes; and their mixtures. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in foundations. Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional adjuvant (s) added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not , altered by the envisaged addition. These adjuvants are generally present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

The invention is illustrated in the examples presented below by way of nonlimiting illustration of the field of the invention: Unless otherwise indicated, the values in the examples below are expressed in% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. EXAMPLES Example 1 Effect of the Filler on the Cosmetic and Makeup Properties (Pore Marking) Anhydrous compositions were prepared respectively comprising, as filler, hydrophobic silica airgel particles (invention) and acrylate copolymer particles ( comparative). INCI EU Formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 (Comparative) (Comparative) (Invention) (Invention) 30% by weight (%) by weight in weight (wt.%) SILICA SILENTATE (VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES from DOW CORNING) 0.5 0.6 ACRYLATES COPOLYMER 0.6 0.8 0.2 (EXPANDEL 551 FROM 40 D42 from AKZO NOBEL) TITANIUM DIOXIDE and IRON 15 15 15 15 HYDROPHOBIC OXIDES DIMETHICONE (and) 60 60 60 60 DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (9041 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND from Dow Corning at 15.5% active ingredient) Mixture of n-undecane: n- 24.4 24.2 24.3 24.4 tridecane in which the n-undecane undecane is predominant in the mixture * * majority mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane as prepared according to the application W02008 / 155059. Preparation of the composition: The silicone elastomers are introduced into the final beaker, deflocculated until homogenization. The pigments are impregnated with a part of the undecane / tridecane mixture and then three passages are carried out with a three-roll mill. This pigment preparation is added to the silicone elastomers and stirred until homogenization. The hydrophobic silica airgel particles are added and stirred until homogenization. Check the homogeneity of the foundation (pigments and KSG must be well homogenized). Evaluation of the cosmetic (texture, application) and makeup (pore marking) properties of the composition: The compositions are evaluated on a panel of experts who note the texture and makeup properties of the application, in particular the marking of the compositions. pores. The results are as follows: Formula 1 (comparative): it evolves over time (becomes fatter) and marks more pores, compared to formula 4 (invention).

Formula 2 (comparative): the increase in the Expancel content does not make it possible to reduce the evolution of the texture, which becomes increasingly fat over time. Marking also increases with the Expancel rate. Formula 3 (Invention): The formula is more stable in time than formulas 1 and 2.

Formula 4 (Invention): the formula is the most stable, scarcely or not pores and has a better homogeneity to the application.

EXAMPLE 2 Anhydrous INCI Foundation, EU Formula 5% by weight Hydrophobic coated iron oxides 16.2 Dodecamethylpentasiloxane L5 8.8 (DM-FLUID-2CS from SHIN ETSU) Major mixture of n-undecane: n-14.3 tridecane in which n-undecane is predominant in the mixture as prepared according to the application W02008 / 155059 Perlite (WORLD MINERALS OPTIMAT 2550 OR) 0.1 Silica Silylate (VM-2270 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES DOW CORNING) 0.6 DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER (9041 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND from DOW CORNING) QSD 100 The composition is prepared as described in Example 1. The composition has a 'cream-mousse' appearance. It is easy to work and homogenize. The composition is applied to the finger on the skin of the face and homogenized on the surface of the skin of the face. The cosmetic properties of application (sensory) and makeup result (coverage, dullness, powdery effect, color correcting effect, blurring the relief, etc.) are evaluated. The composition has a powdery effect and a satisfactory mattifying effect. It fills the relief, in particular the pores and allows to fade it, without marking. Example 3 Ratios of volatile linear silicone oils / volatile linear alkanes Ingredients% by weight% by weight% by weight Formula 6 Formula 7 Formula 8 Coated iron oxides 16.2 16.2 16.2 hydrophobic Dodecamethylpentasiloxane L5 8.8 13 11 (SHIN DM-FLUID-2CS ETSU) Major mixture of n-14.3 10.1 12.1 undecane: n-tridecane in which n-undecane is predominant in the mixture as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059 Perlite (OPTIMAT 2550 OR of 0.1 0.1 0.1 WORLD MINERALS) Silica Silylate ( 0.6 0.6 0.6 AEROGEL FINE PARTICLES from DOW CORNING) DIMETHICONE (and) DIMETHICONE QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 CROSSPOLYMER (9041 SILICONE ELASTOMER BLEND from Dow Corning) The compositions are prepared as described in Example 1. They are evaluated by a panel of experts for their cosmetic properties (texture, application) and makeup result (pore marking).

Formula 8 offers the best compromise to limit the fat side under the finger and have an optimized play time for improved makeup homogeneity. The make-up is natural.10

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. An anhydrous cosmetic composition for making up the skin comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium: (i) at least 15% by weight of pigments relative to the total weight of said composition, (ii) a mixture of at least two oils (s) linear volatile (s), and (iii) at least hydrophobic silica airgel particles. 10 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the composition comprises a mixture of at least one linear silicone volatile oil and at least one linear volatile hydrocarbon oil. 15 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the composition comprises a mixture of at least one linear silicone volatile oil and one or more volatile linear C7-C14 alkanes, in particular C11-C14. 4. Composition according to claim 1 to 3, characterized in that it comprises at least one linear volatile silicone oil of formula (I): R 3 SiO- (R 2 SiO) n-SiR 3 (I) in which R, identical or different, denotes: a hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, or a hydroxyl group, one of the radicals R possibly being to be a phenyl group, n is an integer ranging from 0 to 8, preferably ranging from 2 to 6, and better still ranging from 3 to 5, the silicone oil of formula (I) containing at most 15 carbon atoms. 30 5.Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the linear silicone volatile oil is selected from pentasiloxanes, in particular is a dodecamethylpentasiloxane. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the linear volatile oil is a mixture of linear (s) volatile (s) volatile (s) C7-C14, in particular a mixture of n- undecane / n-tridecane. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the linear volatile silicone oils and volatile linear C7-C14 alkanes represent at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight or even 100% by weight. the oily phase of said composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of dodecamethylpentasiloxane / n-undecanen-tridecane in particular in a weight ratio of dodecamethylpentasiloxane / nundecane-n-tridecane ranging from 3/1 to 1/3 preferably from 2/1 to 1/2. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a mixture of (dodecamethylpentasiloxane and additional volatile oils silicone linear) / linear volatile alkanes C7-C14 ranging from 10/1 to 1/1, preferably from 8/1 to 3/1. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a specific surface per unit mass (Sm) ranging from 500 to 1500 m2 / g, preferably from 600 to 1200. m 2 / g, and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 / g, and a size expressed as mean diameter by volume (D [0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 μm, preferably from 1 to 1000 μm, more preferably from 1 to 100 μm, in particular 1 to 30 μm, more preferably 5 to 25 μm, more preferably 5 to 20 μm and more preferably 5 to 15 μm. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel particles present have an oil absorption capacity measured at VVET POINT ranging from 5 to 18 ml / g of particles, preferably 6 to 15 ml / g and more preferably 8 to 12 ml / g; 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel particles have a packed density ranging from 0.02 g / cm 3 to 0.10 g / cm 3, preferably 0.03 g / cm 3. cm3 at 0.08 g / cm3, in particular from 0.05 g / cm3 to 0.08 g / cm3. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified with trimethylsilyl groups, preferably of the name I NCI Silica silylate. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic silica airgel particles are present in an active material content ranging from 0.1 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a pearlite powder. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises less than 15% by weight, or even less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight of additional oil, in particular of additional nonvolatile oil, based on the total weight of the composition. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one non-emulsifying crosslinked silicone elastomer. 25 18. Cosmetic skin makeup process intended to cover without marking the visible and / or tactile irregularities of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 17. 30 20