FR2990351A1 - USE OF A GATTILIER EXTRACT FOR THE PREPARATION OF A COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a use of a Gattilier extract for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for stimulating the production of dopamine in cutaneous tissues.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of a Chasteberry extract for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for stimulating the production of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. dopamine of the cutaneous tissues, as well as a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition comprising said Chasteberry extract. The Chaste tree is a Mediterranean shrub of the family Verbénacées, mainly represented by the species "Vitex agnus-castus", with small flowers, in whorls spaced, white or bluish, with tubular calyx, with irregular corolla carved of five lobes. Said flowers give berries (fruits), called "pepper monks". The Gattilier is also well known under the Anglicism "Monk's pepper tree". EP-1 980 241 discloses a wet wipe impregnated with an impregnating liquid, used in the field of feminine hygiene. This impregnating liquid, having soothing and calming properties, consists of a dried fruit extract from Vitex agnus-castus. The dopaminergic effect of Vitex agnus-castus is well known from this document. Vitex agnus-castus thus makes it possible to reduce the level of prolactin thanks to its dopaminergic activity. However, despite the various dermatological and / or cosmetic compositions available, there is still a need to be able to have new alternative compositions having new beneficial effects related to the dopaminergic effect. As such, a new application of a Gattilier extract has been discovered by the Applicant. The purpose of the present invention is to propose, in particular, a new use of a Gattilier extract for the preparation of a composition, in particular a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition. The Chasteberry extract is therefore the main active ingredient of the composition according to the invention. Thus, the subject of the present invention is a use of a Gattilier extract for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for stimulating the production of dopamine in cutaneous tissues, in particular in topical application. Dopamine thus secreted at the cutaneous level advantageously plays a major role in maintaining cutaneous permeability and cutaneous homeostasis. Thus, the composition according to the invention is effective for obtaining a dopamine production by topical application, and thus improving the state of the cutaneous surface, and the homeostasis of the cutaneous barrier. Therefore, Gattilier extract advantageously protects the skin and maintains a healthy and radiant skin appearance. As a result, the composition according to the invention makes it possible to promote the reconstruction of the barrier function of the stratum corneum thereby improving the homeostasis of the epidermis, the proper functioning of the barrier leading to the improvement of the brightness of the skin. skin. The Chasteberry extract may be in particular an extract of Vitex agnus castus. Preferably, the Chasteberry extract may be obtained from Chasteberry berries, and particularly preferably, the Chasteberry extract may be a dry extract containing in particular casticine. In a particularly preferred manner, the Chasteberry extract comprises a dried berries extract. The skin tissues of the invention more generally refer to the skin, which consists of both a living anatomical barrier and a zone of exchange between the body and its environment, the effectiveness of this barrier conditioning maintaining a good homeostatic balance. It comprises several layers ranging from the superficial layer, the epidermis, to the deeper layers, the dermis and the hypodermis. Each of these layers has specific properties allowing the whole to react and adapt to the conditions of its environment. The epidermis, which is composed of three types of cells, namely keratinocytes (90% of the epidermal cells), melanocytes (2 to 3% of the epidermal cells) and Langerhans cells, constitutes the outer layer and plays a role. fundamental role in ensuring the protection and maintenance of good trophicity. The dermis is 10 to 30 times thicker than the epidermis, which it serves as a support, and it is mainly composed of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix mainly based on collagen and elastin. Collagen fibers, which make up about 70% of dermal proteins, contribute to the texture and tone of the skin, while elastin is responsible for its elasticity. Other cells, such as macrophages and leucocytes, are also present in the dermis layer.

The hypodermis, which is the deepest layer of the skin, contains the lipid-producing fat cells so that the subcutaneous tissue makes a fat layer that protects the muscles, bones, and internal organs from shock. In the present invention, the Chasteberry extract can thus act: on keratinocytes, preferably on normal human keratinocytes, cutaneous tissues, and / or on cutaneous tissue fibroblasts. According to the invention, the composition may be formulated preferably for topical application.

The composition of the invention may comprise at most 5% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 2% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at most 1% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at most 0.2% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition . This upper limit advantageously makes it possible to guarantee the total safety of the composition on the cutaneous tissues, and in particular on the epidermal human cells.

The composition of the invention may comprise at least 0.006% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably at least 0.02% by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the weight This lower limit advantageously makes it possible to guarantee the effectiveness of the composition in stimulating the activity of the cutaneous tissues, and in particular the keratinocytes, on the production of dopamine. As a result, the composition can comprise from 0.006% to 5% by weight of a Chasteberry extract, based on the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition of the invention can comprise from 0.02% to 1% by weight. % by weight of a Chasteberry extract relative to the total weight of the composition. In a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention may further comprise a first encapsulation vector, intended to encapsulate the Chasteberry extract. By way of example, said first encapsulation vector may be a cyclodextrin. The composition may further comprise a second encapsulation vector for encapsulating said first encapsulation vector. By way of example, said second encapsulation vector may be a liposome, such as in particular lecithin. The compositions according to the present invention may be presented in the forms conventionally used for topical application, that is to say in the form of gel, lotion, emulsion (in particular cream or milk), serum (or essence), mask or ointment, containing compatible and pharmaceutically acceptable excipients and common carriers. They may also be in the form of wipes soaked with a solution containing Chasteberry extract according to the invention. These topical administration forms are prepared by techniques well known to those skilled in the art, and for example, in the case of a cream, by dispersing a fatty phase in an aqueous phase to obtain an emulsion oil in water, or conversely to prepare a water-in-oil emulsion. The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more usual excipients, especially suitable for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable excipients.

These excipients suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be chosen for example from one or more of the compounds i to xvi listed below: i. antioxidant vitamins, such as vitamin E, for example tocopherol acetate or tocotrienol; vitamin C, for example ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate; natural polyphenols; ii. vectors of active ingredients, such as cyclodextrins; liposomes, for example lecithin; iii. vegetable oils; Iv. gelling agents and / or thickeners, such as natural gums; synthetic polymers; there. emulsifiers and co-emulsifiers, such as arachidyl glucoside; cetearyl glucoside; behenyl alcohol; cetearyl alcohol; cetostearyl alcohol; cetearyl alcohol; cetyl alcohol, steareth-2; Steareth-21; isostearyl isostearate; isopropyl myristate; vi. emollients and surfactants, such as octyl dodecanol; isononyl isononanoate; capric / caprylic triglycerides; cetearyl octanoate; isopropyl myristate; cetearyl isononanoate; polyglyceryl 3-diisostearate; hydrogenated polyisobutene; cetyl palmitate; cetyl phosphate; vii. silicones such as dimethicone, cyclomethicone; viii. humectants / moisturizers, such as glycerine; butylene glycol; propylene glycol; ix. preservatives, such as phenoxyethanol, dehydroacetic acid; benzoic acid; potassium sorbate; sodium benzoate; methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl and isobutyl parahydroxybenzoates; x. ultraviolet protection agents, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic UV-A and UV-B sunscreens, selected from benzophenone or a benzophenone derivative such as 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; a cinnamic acid ester; and more particularly octyl methoxycinnamate, ethy1-2-hexyl methoxycinnamate, or a cyano-B, 3-diphenylacrylate such as octo-crylene, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, and dibenzoylmethane derivatives such as 4-isopropyl dibenzoylmethane, t-butyl-methoxy dibenzoylmethane, and 4-methoxydibenzoylmethane, or such as UV screen-forming pigments. exfoliating powders; fruit powders; or mattifying powders such as methyl methacrylate copolymer; xii. neutralizing agents; xiii. solubilizers; xiv. dyes; xv. perfumes. The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more usual complementary active agents, especially adapted for external topical administration, in particular dermatologically and cosmetologically acceptable active agents. These complementary active agents that are suitable for the formulation are well known to those skilled in the art, and may be, for example, anti-aging actives, soothing active ingredients, purifying active agents, slimming active ingredients, moisturizing active ingredients, etc. In particular, the composition of the invention may comprise, in addition to Chasteberry extract, one or more antioxidant vitamins, such as, for example, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and / or tocopherol. Preferably, the Chasteberry extract is vectorized, by nanoemulsion, in order to be able to more easily control the release of Chasteberry extract, and improve its bioavailability. More particularly, the Chasteberry extract may be encapsulated in a first vector, such as cyclodextrins. Once the Chasteberry extract is encapsulated in this first vector, the latter may itself be encapsulated in a second vector, such as liposomes such as lecithin. Other features and advantages of the present invention will become apparent in the light of the examples which follow with reference to the single annotated figure, said examples and figure being given for illustrative and not limiting.

FIG. 1 represents a diagram of the keratinocyte production of dopamine after 24 hours of incubation in the presence of a control, and in the presence of formulations comprising a Chasteberry extract.

EXAMPLES 1. Evaluation of the Effect of Chasteberry Extract on Keratinocyte Dopamine Production A commercially available formulation was used to evaluate the effect of a Chasteberry extract on the production of dopamine in normal human keratinocytes. cultures. This formulation is the product referenced "Happybelle-PE", sold by the company Mibelle AG Biochemistry. This formulation comprises: - an extract of Vitex agnus-castus berries, as Chasteberry extract, - lecithin, 20 - glycerin, - tocopherol - Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, - vegetable oil, - cyclodextrins, an alcohol, and water. The amount of Chasteberry extract in this formulation is about 12.5% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation. In order to carry out said evaluation, normal human keratinocytes were obtained from an abdominoplasty performed in a 66-year-old woman. For carrying out the tests, these cells were cultured until confluent monolayers were obtained.

Then, the keratinocytes were incubated for 24 hours at 37 ° C., under a humid atmosphere and 5% CO 2, in a culture medium alone, in a culture medium in the presence of a reference product (ie control), in culture medium in the presence of the formulation "Happybelle-PE" at 0.01% (v / v), and - in culture medium in the presence of the formulation "Happybelle-PE" 0.1% (v / v) .

The culture medium alone is an "untreated" medium, which does not include any reference product or "Happybelle-PE" formulation. The reference product, or in other words the control, is amantadine hydrochloride at 0.1 μM. At the end of the incubation period, the dopamine contained in the explant incubation media was quantified using an E.I.A. kit. ("Enzyme Immun ° Assay") sensitive and specific. The results are summarized in the diagram of FIG. 1, which shows the keratinocyte production of dopamine as a percentage relative to the control (100 ° / 0): 20% of the "Happybelle-PE" formulation at 0.01% (v / v), and - from the formulation "Happybelle-PE" at 0.1% (v / v). Under the experimental conditions selected, the formulation "Happybelle-PE" is thus capable of significantly increasing the production of dopamine of normal human keratinocytes in culture.

More particularly, it is clear from the diagram of FIG. 1 that the dopamine production of normal human keratinocytes in culture is: - 6.1 times greater than that of the control, for the formulation "Happybelle-PE" to 0.01% (v / v), and 30 - 6.5 times higher than that of the control, for the formulation "Happybelle-PE" at 0.1% (v / v). For note, amantadine hydrochloride, used as a control, induced keratinocyte production of dopamine 5 times greater than that of cells in culture medium alone. Obtaining this result is considered sufficient to validate the study. Thus, the composition according to the invention is effective for obtaining dopamine production by topical application, and thus improving the state of the cutaneous surface and the homeostasis of the cutaneous barrier. As a result, the skin is better protected, and the complexion more radiant. 2. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition based on a Chasteberry extract according to the invention In the formulations detailed below, the product referred to as "Happybelle-PE", sold by the company Mibelle AG Biochemistry, comprises about 12, 5% by weight of Chasteberry extract (based on the total weight of the Happybelle-PE product). 2.1. Gel formulation example According to conventional techniques, a gel based on a composition according to the invention having the following weight composition is prepared: Demineralized water, q.s. 100.0 Happybelle-PE 1.0 Gelling agent 3.0 Neutralizing agent 3.0 Humectants 8.0 Preservatives 3.0 Colorants 0.1 Perfume 0.8 30 Solubilizer 3.0 Complementary assets 20.0 2.2. EXAMPLE OF FORMULATION OF A CREAM In accordance with conventional techniques, a cream based on a composition according to the invention having the following weight composition is prepared: Deionized water, q.s. 100.0 Happybelle-PE 1.0 Gelling agent 1.0 Humectant 5.0 Preservatives 3.0 Emulsifier 5.0 Co-emulsifier 5.0 Emollient 10.0 Vegetable oil 10.0 Silicone 3.0 Complementary actives 20.0 Dyes 0.1 Perfume 0.520

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Use of a Chasteberry extract for the preparation of a cosmetic and / or dermatological composition for stimulating the production of dopamine in cutaneous tissues. 2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the Chasteberry extract is an extract of Vitex agnus castus. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the Chasteberry extract is obtained from Chasteberry berries. 4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises at most 5% by weight of a Chasteberry extract, relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition further comprises a first encapsulation vector for encapsulating the Chasteberry extract. 6. Use according to claim 5, characterized in that the first encapsulation vector is a cyclodextrin. 7. Use according to claim 5 or 6, characterized in that the composition further comprises a second encapsulation vector for encapsulating the first encapsulation vector. 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the second encapsulation vector is a liposome. 9. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, of the composition as a topical application. 10. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises a Chasteberry extract in an amount of at most 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Cosmetic and / or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises a Chasteberry extract in an amount of at most 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12.Composition according to claim 10 or 11, characterized in that it comprises a Chasteberry extract in an amount of at least 0.006% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13.Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that it comprises a Chasteberry extract in an amount of at least 0.02% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.