FR2977154A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful e.g. as make up composition e.g. mascara, comprises ureidopyrimidone functionalized wax obtained by reaction between waxes having reactive functional group e.g. hydroxy and linking group, and an amide compound - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises, in a medium, at least one compound of ureidopyrimidone functionalized wax obtained by reaction between at least one wax having at least one reactive functional group containing hydroxy or carboxy group and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more partner linking groups, and/or at least one amide compound (III) or its salt, isomer and/or solvate. Cosmetic composition comprises, in a medium, at least one compound of ureidopyrimidone functionalized wax obtained by reaction between at least one wax having at least one reactive functional group containing hydroxy or carboxy group and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more partner linking groups, where each pairing of linking group involves at least 4-hydrogen bonds, the linking group contains at least one complementary reactive functional group capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the wax and the linking group comprises at least one amine compound of formula (I) or (II), and/or at least one amide compound of formula (III) or its salt, isomer and/or solvate, where the compounds are in the form of free acid or salt. R1, R3 : divalent carbon-based group containing linear or branched 1-32C alkyl, 4-16C cycloalkyl or 4-16C aryl (optionally comprising 1-8 heteroatom of O, N, S, F, Si or P and/or optionally substituted with ester or amide function, or 1-12C alkyl); R2 : H or optionally saturated, optionally aromatic 1-32C, preferably hydrocarbyl-based (alkyl) comprising one or more heteroatom of O, N, S, F, Si or P; R1a : H, or linear 1-20C or branched 3-20C alkyl; R2a : linear 1-20C or branched 3-20C alkyl containing 5-6C ring, or 5-6C cycloalkyl (optionally substituted by one or two substituents of methyl, phenyl, benzyl or phenethyl); and R3a, R4a : H, or linear 1-12C or branched 3-12C alkyl, provided that when R1a is H. [Image].

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions comprising the combination of particular fatty substances and solvents, as well as a cosmetic treatment method employing it.

In many cosmetic compositions, in particular in the field of make-up and / or care of the skin and / or the hair, waxes mixed with oils and other fatty substances are used, in order to give consistency and / or texture to the compositions. Waxes usually have great stability over time. However, problems of mechanical stability and / or compatibility between waxes and volatile products, in particular the volatile oils generally present in cosmetic compositions, can arise. Indeed, for a low wax content, there is an insufficient hardness of the composition, in a stick, for example, which can be at the origin of problems of stability or use. Simply increasing the proportion of hardening waxes does not solve these problems because it can lead to de-gradation of the cosmetic properties of the product which becomes uncomfortable to wear. Thus, in some cases, the compositions may have a sticky, greasy feel and may be difficult to apply, especially when they include too large amounts of waxes. In addition, the deposit formed on the keratinous support may be inhomogeneous, especially with a high concentration of wax. Waxes have thus been proposed which make it possible to obtain an adequate hardening, that is to say having an adequate gelling power, so as to limit the quantity of waxes in the cosmetic products, and thus to avoid the problems of curing. 'incompatibility.

These novel waxes are in the form of a compound that can be obtained by reaction between: at least one wax carrying at least one reactive functional group chosen from OH or COOH, and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more partner joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 4 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one so-called complementary reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the wax, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (1) or (II) as defined below (ureidopyrimidone pattern). However, it has been found that by functionalizing the waxes with such ureidopyrimidone units, a decrease in their solubility is observed, which makes it more difficult to use them in the cosmetic formulations.

There is therefore the need to find new solvents to convey, including solubilize or disperse, effectively functionalized waxes de fi ned above. However, the Applicant has now discovered, surprisingly, that a particular family of solvents, consisting of 4-carboxy 2-pyrrolidinone derivatives of formula given below, achieved this goal.

An object of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (i) at least one compound capable of being obtained by reaction between: at least one wax bearing at least one reactive functional group chosen from OH or COOH, and - at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 4 hydrogen bonds, said linking group carrying at least one less a so-called complementary reactive function capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the wax, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (1) or (II): OO * - R3 1 IN

In which: R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group, optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C 1 -C 32 hydrocarbon (alkyl) radical, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S; , F, Si and P; and (ii) at least one compound of formula (I '), alone or in admixture, and / or one of its salts and / or isomers and / or solvates: ## STR2 ## R '2 NO in which: R' 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 20 alkyl radical or C 3 -C 20 radical; R '2 denotes a linear C 1 -C 20 or branched C 3 -C 20 alkyl radical which may contain a C 5 -C 6 ring; a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted by one or two methyl radicals; the phenyl radical, the benzyl radical or the phenethyl radical; R'3 and R'4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear C 1 -C 12 or branched C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical, it being understood that when R'l = H, the compounds may be in their free acid form or in the form of their cosmetically acceptable salts.

Thanks to the invention, a wide range of formulations can be achieved, for the whole of the cosmetic trades. Indeed, the specific physicochemical properties of the compounds of formula II and in particular their character is hydrophilic or lipophilic, not only allow them to confer an excellent solvent power waxes, but also compatibility with the hydrophilic / lipophilic balance of the substrates In addition, these compounds (1 ') have an excellent compatibility with the usual cosmetic media and are therefore very easy for the formulator to use. ) according to the invention allow to obtain an improved spread of the formula on the skin and its integuments, which results in a homogeneous deposition and a final aesthetic effect.

Furthermore, by functionalizing the wax with ureidopyrimidones, it is possible to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the keratin materials, or even with properties similar to a film, and thus allow either the use of a small amount of waxes for a hardening. equivalent, ie high concentration use without having a sticky or greasy effect on the application.

Functionalized waxes according to the invention are generally in the form of a solid; this allows in particular to form a non-sticky material, which does not transfer to the finger when applied to a keratinous substrate. Furthermore, it has been found that the crosslinking through four hydrogen bonds, via the ureidopyrimidone groups, could make it possible to increase the strength of this crosslinking, and thus improve the holding of the desired cosmetic effect, in particular the holding of the deposit.

The composition according to the invention therefore comprises at least one functionalized ureidopyrimidone wax, obtainable by reaction between: on the one hand at least one wax carrying at least one reactive functional group chosen from OH or COOH, and -other shares at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a joining group involving at least 4 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one so-called reactive function complementary, capable of reacting with the reactive function carried by the wax, especially isocyanate, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (1) or (II) as defined below.

In the end, the functionalized waxes ureidopyrimidone according to the invention therefore comprise at least a portion from the wax and at least a portion (G) from the junction group, said portion (G) comprising at least one unit of formula (1) or (II). In particular, said parts are connected by a covalent bond, in particular can be connected by a covalent bond formed during the reaction between the OH and / or COOH reactive functions carried by the wax and the complementary reactive functions, in particular isocyanate, carried by the group. junction, capable of reacting with said OH and COOH functions.

The wax that can be used to prepare the functionalized wax ureïdopyrimidone therefore carries at least one reactive function capable of reacting with the complementary reactive function carried by the linking group, in particular likely to react chemically with the isocyanate groups carried by the linking group ; preferably, this function is an OH or COOH function, or even carboxylic acid anhydride. Preferably, the wax carries only OH functions, preferably primary or secondary OH functions, and even more preferably only primary. This wax is a lipophilic fatty substance or a mixture of lipophilic fats, crystalline at 25 ° C., solid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure (25 ° C., 1 atm); preferably reversible solid / liquid state change and generally having a melting point above 40 ° C, for example between 40 and 250 ° C, more preferably between 55 ° C and 200 ° C, more preferably between 75 ° C and 120 ° C or 150 ° C. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed.

The waxes that may be used in the context of the present invention may be of vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic origin; they can be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, the following waxes, it being understood that these waxes carry a reactive function, in particular OH, COOH, or even anhydride:

(i) long-chain alcohols, generally linear, of formula CH3- (CH2) n-OH with n between 13 and 60, in particular between 15 and 47, or even between 15 and 31. Such fatty alcohols are available in the trade, for example at New Phase Technologies or Petrolite. It may be mixtures of long-chain linear alcohols that can be obtained by a polymerization process making it possible to obtain polymers with a very low polydispersity index (Mw / Mn of less than 1.1). Their weight average molar mass (Mw) is generally between 350 and 1000. Particularly exemplary are cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and octacosanol.

(ii) long chain, saturated or unsaturated, generally linear, C8-C60 acids; those of formula CH3- (CH2) n -O00H with n between 6 and 58, in particular between 8 and 48, and even between 10 and 32, may be mentioned; mention may also be made of mono- or poly-unsaturated C6-C60 or even C8-C32 fatty acids. (iii) calcium lanolates or stearates.

(iv) lanolin and its derivatives, such as hydrogenated, hydroxylated or acetylated lanolin, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids and acyl tilted lanolin alcohol;

(v) polyolefin waxes, especially homopolymers and copolymers of poly (alpha-olefins), preferably having a melting point of greater than 25 ° C., preferably of between 25 and 110 ° C., optionally polyoxyalkylenated ( C2-C3 alkyl), optionally (poly) glycerolated, and bearing at least one functional group -OH, -OOOH or carboxylic acid anhydride, for example - (polyoxyalkylene) n-OH, or polyglycerol. Among these polyolefins, there may be mentioned homopolymers and copolymers of olefins C2-C30, preferably C2-C10, or even C2-C3. Particularly preferred are homopolymers of polyethylene and polypropylene, and copolymers thereof with each other or with another C 4 -C 10 alpha-olefin. These polyolefins, preferably oligomers of Mw less than 10,000, can be obtained by the known polymerization techniques: by radical polymerization, Ziegler-Natta, or by using metallocene initiators. In particular, mention may be made of: polyethylene or polypropylene waxes, terminated by an OH end group, such as "PERFORMACOL" sold by New Phase Technologies, in particular PERFORMACOL 350 (Tm 79 ° C.), 425 (Tf) 91 ° C) and 550 (mp 99 ° C); polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated polyethylene or polypropylene waxes terminated with a terminal group - (POE) -OH, - (PPO) -OH or - (POE) / (PPO) -OH, such as polyethylenes ethoxylated "PERFORMATOX Ethoxylates" sold by New Phase Technologies, in particular PERFORMATOX Ethoxylate 420 (Tm 91 ° C), 450 (mp 91 ° C), 480 (mp 88 ° C), 490 (mp 71 ° C), 520 ( Mp 99 ° C) and 550 (mp 99 ° C); Polyolefins, preferably polyethylene or polypropylene, glycerolated or polyglycerolated (bearing group - [O-CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2] x-OH) with x preferably between 1 and 50; polyolefins, preferably polyethylene or polypropylene, bearing a COOH group, or carboxylic acid anhydride; in particular - polyethylenes or polypropylenes bearing a terminal COOH group, such as "PERFORMACID Acid" sold by New Phase Technologies, in particular PERFORMACID Acid 350 (Tf 89 ° C.), 425 (Tf 93 ° C.), 550 (Tf). 101 ° C) and 700 (mp 110 ° C); polyolefins, in particular homo- or copolymers of ethylene and / or propylene, bearing one or more succinic anhydride groups along their chain and resulting from the addition of maleic anhydride to one or more residual unsaturation, or direct copolymerization olefin-maleic anhydride, such as: (i) polypropylenes containing maleic anhydride groups (or succinic once attached to the chain), in particular "LICOCARE PP207" from Clariant, (ii) polyethylenes containing maleic anhydride groups, in particular " Honeywell's Ethylene-Maleic Anhydride Copolymer such as AC 573 A (drop point: 106 ° C), AC 596 A (Drop point: 143 ° C); (iii) poly (isobutylene-maleic anhydride) copolymers, especially those sold by Kuraray under the trade name ISOBAM; (iv) maleic anhydride / octadecene copolymers such as those marketed by Chevron Philips Company under the name "PA 18"; (v) copolymers between long chain olefins and maleic anhydride, such as LICOCARE CM 401 LP 3345 from Clariant. (vi) natural waxes which have a significant fraction of free fatty alcohols and / or free fatty acids; among those comprising free fatty alcohols, mention may be made of Candelilla wax, Carnauba wax, sugar cane wax; among those comprising free fatty acids, there may be mentioned beeswax, orange wax, Montan wax, lemon wax, sugar cane wax. (vii) so-called natural polyoxyethylenated (bearing a terminal OH) or polyglycerolated (several lateral OH and a terminal OH) waxes; they are natural or synthetic waxes, which may have one or more residual COOHs which are reacted with an alcohol, dialcohol, polyol, or ethoxylated alcohol, a C2-C4 alkylene glycol (preferably glycerol) or polyglycerol; mention may be made in particular of: polyoxyethylenated natural waxes (number of EO preferably between 2 and 100): PEG Beewax (APIFIL from Gattefosse or PEG-8 Bee Wax from Koster Keunen), PEG Candellila Wax; PEG Carnauba Wax such as PEG-12 Carnauba from Koster Keunen; PEG Lanolin; oxypropylenated lanolin wax; PEG Spermaceti Wax; PEG Shellac Wax. glycerolated or polyglycerolated waxes: polyglycerolated beeswax, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax (Gera Bellina Wax from Koster Keunen); Acacia Decurrens / Jojoba blend / Sunflower Seed Wax / Polyglyceryl-3 Esters (Hydracire S from Gattefosse). (viii) silicone waxes, such as, for example, polyether silicone waxes, and alkyl or alkoxydimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms; (ix) polyoxyalkylenated C 12 -C 40 fatty alcohols, especially bearing at least one C 12 -C 40 alkyl group, in particular C 14 -C 32 alkyl, and a polyoxyalkylene group, preferably polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, and terminated with an OH; in particular polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol, and more particularly steareth-10 or polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (10 EO), Steareth-2 or polyoxyethylenated stearyl alcohol (2 EO) and Steareth-20 or stearyl alcohol polyoxyethylenated (20 EO), and in particular the BRIJ S10-SO, the BRIJ S2-SO and the BRIJ S20-SO of Croda; mixtures of oxyethylenated lanolin fatty alcohols such as Lubrizol SOLULAN 16 Lanolin; TEGOCARE 150 from Evonik, EMULCIRE 61 WL2659 from Gattefosse; Isosteareth-20 or polyoxyethylenated (20 EO) isostearyl alcohol such as AROSURF 66E20 from Witco; PEG-6 Decyltetradeceth-30, especially NIKKOPOL PEN-4630 from Nikko; PEG-6 Decyltetradeceth-12, in particular NIKKOL PEN-4612 from Nikko; PEG-4 Montanate, including LICOWAX KST from Clariant; hydrogenated and polyoxyethylenated castor oils such as PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor OiI and in particular CREMOPHOR PH from BASF; the PEG-45 / dodecylglycol copolymer and in particular the Akzo ELFACOS ST9;

(x) the mono- or multi-esters between at least one polyol, including glycerol and a C8-C40 mono-fatty acid, bearing at least one free OH; and mono- or multi-ethers between a polyol and a C8-C40 fatty monoalcohol. Mention may in particular be made, as fatty acid: stearic acid, behenic acid; as polyol carrying at least one residual OH: pentaerythritol, erythritol, di-pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, di-trimethylol propane, glycerol, di-glycerol, polyglycerols, sucrose. Mention may especially be made of batyl alcohol or mono-stearyl ether of glycerol, and in particular BATYL ALCOOL 100 from Nikko; Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 (= vegetable fatty acid esters, isostearic acid, adipic acid and glycerol) such as SOFTISAN 649 from Sasol; Montanate Glycol or Octacosanoate, such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES from Clariant; Pentaerythrityl Distearate such as CUTINA PES from Cognis; esters of sucrose and of fatty acid with residual OH, and in particular sucrose esterified with 6-8 behenic acid chains, comprising at least 2 free OHs, such as CROMADERM B from Croda; pentaerythrityl Isostearate / caprate / caprylate / adipate with residual OH, such as Croda's SUPERMOL L-LQ (RB), Palmitate sucrose such as Mitsubishi's SURFHOPE SE COSME C-1615; sucrose Tribehenate such as Mitsubishi's SURFHOPE SE COSME C-2203.

Mono or multi-esters may also preferably be used between at least one glycerol, mono- or polyglycerolated, and a C8-C40 fatty monoacid, especially C12-C32, bearing at least one free OH; mention may be made in particular of polyglyceryl-10 Behenate / Eicosadioate such as NOMCORT HK-P from Nisshin OH; glyceryl Behenate / Eicosadioate such as NOMCORT HK-G from Nisshin OH; Polyglyceryl-10 Hydroxystearate / stearate / Eicosadioate such as NIKKOL NIKKOWAX LM from Nikko Chemicals; polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate (free 5 OH) such as Taiyo Kagaku SUNSOFT Q-185S; Glyceryl Stearate such as Taiyo Kagaku SUNSOFT 8000V; Glyceryl Laurate such as SUNSOFT 750 from Taiyo Kagaku; Glyceryl Behenate (mono + di-behenate) such as DUB BG from Stearinerie Dubois. (xi) the mono- or multi-esters between at least one C8-C40 polycarboxylic acid and a C8-C40 monoalcohol.

(xii) C8-C40 fatty acid esters of C8-C40 fatty alcohol, additionally bearing at least one OH group; and in particular: esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, with a C 8 -C 40 monohydric alcohol, diol or polyol; in particular trihydroxystearin or glycerol trihydroxystearate, such as Elementis THIXIN®; Ethylhexyl Hydroxystearate such as WICKENOL 171 from Alzo; dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate such as SALACOS 168M Nisshin OH; C18-C38 fatty alcohol stearate, such as Koster Keunen's KESTERWAX K82P; Hydroxyoctacosanyl Hydoxystearate such as Akzo's ELFACOS C26 (which carries 2 free OH in the end). esters of hydrogenated ricinoleic acid with a C 8 -C 40 monohydric alcohol, diol or polyol; especially cetyl esters of hydrogenated castor oil fatty acids such as PHYTOWAX RICIN 16L 64 from Sophim; the esters or polyesters between the hydrogenated castor oil (3 OH) and a C8-C40 mono- or di-acid, retaining at least one of the three OHs of the hydrogenated castor oil molecule, and in particular the polycondensate between hydrogenated castor oil and isostearic and adipic acids such as HAIMALATE 618 from Kokyu AI-cool; esters of citric acid and C8-C40 fatty alcohols, comprising at least one OH of the free acid; especially tri-C14-C15 alkyl Citrate such as COSMACOL ECL Sassol.

Of course, a mixture of waxes can be used.

Preferably, the waxes that may be used in the present invention are chosen from cetyl alcohol, beeswax, carnauba wax and jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof. The joining group capable of being used to form the functionalized ureidopyrimidone wax according to the invention carries at least one reactive functional group complementary to the OH or COOH functions protected by the wax, in particular an isocyanate function. This function is capable of reacting with the reactive functional groups 40 OH or COOH of the wax in order to form a covalent bond, especially of urethane type, between said wax and said joining group. Said linking group is capable of establishing H bonds with one or more partner junction groups of the same or different chemical nature, each pairing of a junction group involving at least 4 H (hydrogen) bonds. For the purposes of the invention, the term "linking group" is intended to mean any functional group comprising donor groups or acceptors of H bonds and capable of establishing at least three H bonds, preferably at least four H bonds, preferably four H bonds, with a partner junction group, identical or not. For the purposes of the invention, the term "partner joining group" means any joining group capable of establishing H bonds with one or more joining groups of the same or another polymer according to the invention. The joining groups can be of identical or different chemical nature. If they are identical, they can then establish H links between them and are then called self-complementary join groups. If they are different, they are chosen in such a way that they are complementary with respect to the H interactions. Said linking group, carrying isocyanate groups, can therefore be schematized (G) - (NCO) p, p being a non-zero integer, preferably 1 or 2.

The linking group also comprises at least one monovalent unit of formula (1) and / or at least one divalent unit of formula (II), as defined below: O O * - R 3 1 IN

In which: R1 and R3, which may be identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and (iii) a C4-C16 aryl group, optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R 2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C 1 -C 32 hydrocarbon (alkyl) radical, which may comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S; , F, Si and P.

In particular, the radical R 1 may especially be: a linear or branched C2-C12 divalent alkylene group, especially a 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene or 1,6- ( 2,4,4-trimethylhexylene), 1,4- (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene), 1,6- (6-methylheptylene), 1.5-1 IN R2 ~ N NH-C-NH-R1- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene). a divalent C 4 -C 12 cycloalkylene or arylene group, especially chosen from the following radicals -isophorone-, tolylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene, 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 4,4-bisphenylenemethylene; or of structure: CH2 Preferably, R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 6- or 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene.

In particular, the radical R 2 can in particular be H, or else: a C 1 -C 32 alkyl group, in particular a C 1 -C 16 or even a C 1 -C 10 alkyl group; a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group; a C4-C12 aryl group; a C 1 -C 12 aryl (C 1 -C 12) alkyl group; - a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group; an arylalkoxy group, in particular a (C 1 -C 4) aryl alkoxy group; a C4-C12 heterocycle or a combination of these radicals, which may optionally be substituted by an amino, ester and / or hydroxyl function. Preferably, R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H6) (C4H9).

Preferably, R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-0-C (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a C1-C32 linear or branched alkyl group or a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C16 aryl group, or a mixture thereof. In particular, R'3 and R'4 may be methylene, 1,2-ethylene, 1,6-hexylene, 1,4-butylene, 1,6- (2,4,4-trimethylhexylene) (4-methylpentylene), 1,5- (5-methylhexylene); 1,6- (6-méthylheptylène); 1,5- (2,2,5-trimethylhexylene), 1,7- (3,7-dimethyloctylene); 4,4'-méthylènebiscyclohexylène; 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4-methyl-1,3-phenylene; 4,4'-bisphénylèneméthylène; 1,2-tolylene, 1,4-tolylene, 2,4-tolylene, 2,6-tolylene; 1,5-naphthylene; tetramethylxylylene; isophorone. In particular, R'3 can represent a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene. By -isophorone- means the divalent radical of structure: CH3

Preferably, R'4 may represent the divalent radical derived from isophorone. In particular, R3 can be of structure:

In a particularly preferred manner, in the formula (1), there may be: - R ~ = -isophorone-, R2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula: ## STR2 ## - (CH2) 6-, R2 = methyl, which leads to the unit of formula:

H H 1 1 OvN ~ N ~

## STR5 ## R = - (CH 2) 6-, R 2 = isopropyl, which leads to the unit of formula

H H 1 1 OvN ~ N ~

## STR2 ## where R 2 = methyl, which leads to the formula of

N FI O

In a particularly preferred manner, in the formula (II), R 1 represents the radical - isophorone -, R 2 = methyl and R 3 = - (CH 2) 2000-NH-isophorone, which leads to with the divalent unit of formula: ## STR2 ## The joining groups carrying a single isocyanate function can be of formula:

1 IN

Wherein R 1 and R 2 are as defined above; R 2 and R 2 are as defined above; and in particular: - R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2 -CH2-CH2, 4,41-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3- phenylene; and / or R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9). Preferably, the linking groups can be chosen from the following groups: ## STR1 ##

The linking groups carrying two isocyanate functional groups may be of formula: ## STR2 ##

Wherein R1, R2 and R3 are as defined above, and in particular: - R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 2-, - (CH2) 6- -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2,4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; and / or - R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); and / or - R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-0-C (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a group linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl or a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C12 aryl group, or mixtures thereof; and in particular R'3 represents a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene and R'4 represents the divalent radical derived from isophorone.

A particularly preferred joining group is that of formula: CH 3

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the junction groups may be attached to the wax via the functionalization of the junction group by an isocyanate. . According to another embodiment, it is possible to make the reverse reaction by prefunctionalizing the wax with a diisocyanate.

As mentioned above, the functionalized ureidopyrimidone wax according to the invention can therefore result from the chemical reaction between a wax and a joining group.

It can be prepared by the methods usually employed by those skilled in the art to form a urethane link between the free OH functions of the wax and the isocyanate functions carried by the linking group. By way of illustration, a general method of preparation consists in: heating the wax comprising at least one reactive functional group, in particular OH, at a temperature which may be between 60 ° C. and 140 ° C .; add the junction group carrying the reactive functions, in particular isocyanate; optionally stirring the mixture, under a controlled atmosphere, at a temperature of the order of 100-130 ° C .; for 1 to 24 hours; 20 - follow by infrared spectroscopy, the disappearance of the isocyanate characteristic band (between 2500 and 2800 cm-1) so as to stop the reaction to the total disappearance of the peak, then allow the final product to return to ambient temperature. may be carried out in the presence of a solvent, especially methyltetrahydrofuran, tetrahydrofuran, toluene or butyl acetate. It is also possible to add a conventional catalyst for urethane bond formation. By way of example, mention may be made of dibutyl tin dilaurate. The compound can in the end be washed and dried, or even purified, according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art. According to another embodiment, the reaction may comprise the following steps: functionalization of the wax with a diisocyanate, followed by reaction with 6-methylisocytosine or 5-hydroxyethyl-6-methylisocytosine. An illustration of such a reaction is given in FOLMER et al., Adv. Mater, 12, 874-78 (2000). The number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the functionalized ureidopyrimidone wax according to the invention is preferably between 180 and 18,000, preferably 200 and 15,000, or even 300 and 10,000, more preferably 400 and 5,000, preferably 500 and 2,500.

The amount of ureidopyrimidone functionalized wax present in the compositions of course depends on the type of composition and the desired properties and can be between 5 and 80% by weight, preferably between 10 and 75% by weight, in particular between 20 and 70% by weight. weight, or even between 25 and 65% by weight, and better still between 30 and 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the final cosmetic composition.

The composition also comprises 4-carboxy-2-pyrrolidinone derivatives, which correspond to the following general formula (I '): ## STR1 ## in which: R' 1 represents an atom of hydrogen or a C1-C20 linear or C3-C20 branched alkyl radical; R '2 denotes a linear C 1 -C 20 or branched C 3 -C 20 alkyl radical which may contain a C 5 -C 6 ring; a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted by one or two methyl radicals; the phenyl radical, the benzyl radical or the phenethyl radical; R'3 and R'4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear C 1 -C 12 or branched C 1 -C 12 alkyl radical, it being understood that when R'l = H, the compounds may be in their free acid form or in the form of their cosmetically acceptable salts.

In the formula (I '), among the alkyl groups, mention may especially be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, n-octyl, ethyl-2-hexyl and dodecyl groups. , hexadecyl, cyclohexyl or methylcyclohexyl.

The salts of the compounds described in the present invention include the conventional non-toxic salts of said compounds such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids or bases, cosmetically acceptable. There may be mentioned ammonium salts, alkanolamine salts such as triethanolamine, aminopropanediol, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts, such as sodium, potassium, magnesium and calcium.

The preferred compounds are those of formula (I ') in which R' 3 and R '4 are hydrogen. Preferably, R '1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 18 or branched C 3 -C 18 alkyl radical; and more preferably a C2-C18 or branched C3-C10 linear alkyl radical. Preferably, R '2 denotes a linear C 2 -C 18 or branched C 3 -C 18 alkyl radical; and more preferably a linear C3-C16 or branched C3-C12 alkyl radical; or a cyclohexyl, phenyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical; and still more preferably a linear or branched C4-C10 alkyl radical; and most preferably butyl or 2-ethylhexyl. Among the compounds of formula (I '), the following products (a) to (bx) will be used: RN = 10080-92-9 OO (f) RN = 59857-84-0 OO (e) RN = 102943-44-2 OO (i) G) RN = 100453-61-0 RN = 59857-87-3 0 (c) O (9) RN = 428518-33-6 O RN = 428518-34-7 0 0 (a) RN = 59857-86-2 0 0 0 0 RN = 192717-78-5 (d) RN = 100911-29-3 R = 428518-32-5 OR \ N \ NJ RN = 856637-16 -6 RN = 101572-83-2 OO (p) RN = 59857-85-1 OO (a) (r) (s) RN = 873969-57-4 O (t) O (u) O (W) RN = 593253-22-6 (z) (Y) O (aa) RN = 101572-84-3 RN = 102180-23-4 RN = 102444-77-9 O (ak) (ad) (ae) RN = 147452 -59-3 RN = 100878-04-4 OO \ \ O / N- / N ~ O RN = 856636-64-1 RN = 100252-83-3 RN = 106783-22-6 RN = 66397-80-65 OO (ap) RN = 100718-54-5 (aq) RN = 64320-92-9 OO x ~ N

O (at) (as) RN = 91957-98-1 RN = 1 0 1 1 05-62-8 (av) OH OH OH (ay) (az) (ba) RN = 43094-86-6 RN = 52743-73-4 RN = 208118-23-4 RN = 299920-47-15 O (bb) (bd) RN = 157687-77-9 RN = 944648-73-1 OH RN = 696647-92-4 OH N (bd) RN = 845546-13-6 OH RN = 116167-27-2 RN = 6304-56-9 RN = 944511-54-0 OH (bj) RN = 1211449-66-9 RN = 10054-19 The counterions indicated may be replaced by any cosmetically acceptable cationic counterion, organic or inorganic, preferably chosen from alkaline or alkaline earth mineral cations, such as Na, Mg, K and Ca, and organic cations such as ammonium NR4 +, with R, same or different, representing H or a (hydroxy) C1-C6 alkyl.

Even more preferred compounds are the compounds of formulas (1), (n), (o), (ac), (am), (at), (a), (av), (ba), (bg), (bl), (bm), (bp), (br), (bw) and (bx).

The compounds of formula (I ') can be obtained according to the syntheses described in the following articles: J. Org. Chem., 26, pp. 1519-24 (1961); Tetrahedron Asymmetric, 12 (23), pages 3241-9 (2001); J. Industrial & Engineering Chem., 47, pp. 1572-8 (1955); J. Am. Chem. Soc., 60, pp. 402-6 (1938); and in patents EP0069512, US2811496, US2826588, US3136620, FR2290199 and FR2696744.

The compounds of formula (I ') are preferably present, alone or as a mixture, in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention in an amount of 0.5 to 400/0 by weight, better still 1 to 300/0 by weight, or 2 to 250/0 by weight, and preferably 3 to 200/0 by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise, according to the application envisaged, a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face or the body, the eyelashes, the eyebrows. , lips and nails.

The cosmetic composition may advantageously comprise a liquid fatty phase which may comprise at least one compound chosen from oils and / or solvents of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbonaceous, hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone, volatile or non-volatile. , alone or in mixture as long as they form a homogeneous and stable mixture and are compatible with the intended use. For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile" is intended to mean any compound capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials, or the lips, in less than one hour at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure ( 1 atm). In particular, this volatile compound has a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mmHg). By contrast, the term "non-volatile" means a compound remaining on the keratin materials or the lips at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0, 13 Pa).

The composition may thus comprise at least one oil and / or a solvent chosen from, alone or as a mixture:

1 / esters of monocarboxylic acids with monoalcohols and polyalcohols; advantageously, said ester is a C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate or has the following formula: R "1-COO-R" 2 in which: R "1 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 19 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and whose hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms chosen from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions, and R "2 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical of 1 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and better still of 3 to 20 carbon atoms, optionally comprising one or more ethylenic double bonds, optionally substituted and the The hydrocarbon chain may be interrupted by one or more heteroatoms selected from N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions.

By "optionally substituted" is meant that R "1 and / or R" 2 may carry one or more substituents selected, for example, from groups comprising one or more heteroatoms selected from O and / or N, such as amino, amine , alkoxy, hydroxyl. Examples of the groups R "1 are those derived from the preferably higher fatty acids selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, propionic, butyric, caproic, caprylic, pelargonic, capric, undecanoic, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, arachidic. Behenic, oleic, linolenic, linoleic, oleostearic, arachidonic, erucic, and mixtures thereof Preferably, R "1 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 4 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. and R "2 is an unsubstituted branched alkyl group of 5 to 15 carbon atoms, preferably 9 to 11 carbon atoms.

In particular, mention may be made, preferably, of C8-C48 esters, optionally incorporating in their hydrocarbon chain one or more heteroatoms of N and O and / or one or more carbonyl functions; and more particularly purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2 stearate -dodecyl, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate; and the heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, for example of fatty alcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, as well as isopropyl N-lauroyl sarcosinate (in particular Eldew-205SL from Ajinomoto); hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; branched C8-C16 esters, especially isohexyl neopentanoate.

2 / hydrocarbon vegetable oils with a high triglyceride content consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, maize, sunflower, shea, castor oil, sweet almond, macadamia, apricot, soya, rapeseed, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, of bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, jojoba, palm, calophyllum; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearinerie Dubois or those sold under the names "Miglyol 810®", "812 °" and "818 °" by the company Dynamit Nobel.

3 / alcohols, and especially monohydric alcohols, C6-C32, especially C12-C26, such as oleic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2 -butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol and octyldodecanol;

4 / linear or branched hydrocarbon oils, volatile or not, of synthetic or mineral origin, which may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 5 to 100 carbon atoms, and in particular petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutenes such as Parleam, squalane, perhydrosqualene and their mixtures. It is more particularly possible to mention linear, branched and / or cyclic C5-C48 alkanes, and preferably branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins); especially decane, heptane, dodecane, cyclohexane; as well as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane.

5 / silicone oils, volatile or non-volatile; Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of less than 8 centistokes, and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 22 carbon atoms; and in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, methylhexyldimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used according to the invention may be polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates.

6 / C6 to C40 ethers, especially C10-C40; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; 7 / C -C -C fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof. 8 / ketones that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; 9 / aldehydes that are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde or acetaldehyde; 10 / short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, isopentyl acetate; 11 / ethers liquid at 25 ° C such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one wax of vegetable, animal, mineral, synthetic or even silicone origin. In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax can be mentioned alone or as a mixture; Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricoury wax, Japan wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane wax; paraffin waxes of lignite; microcrystalline waxes; lanolin wax; the wax of Montan; ozokerites; polyethylene waxes; waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis; hydrogenated oils, fatty esters and concrete glycerides at 25 ° C. It is also possible to use silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyls, alkoxys and / or polymethylsiloxane esters.

The composition may also comprise, for example in a hydrophilic phase, water and / or one or more hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and especially linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols, such as ethanol or tert-butanol. n-butanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, as well as polyols such as glycerol, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, or polyethylene glycols, or even glycol ethers. especially C2 and C2-C4 aldehydes hydrophilic.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more dyestuffs which may be chosen from pigments, fillers, nacres and flakes, and / or fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes. The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, interferential or not. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated mica or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, in particular, blue. ferric or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. The fillers can be mineral or organic, lamellar or spherical. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, powders of nylon and polyethylene, poly-R-alanine and polyethylene, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, starch, nitrile and the like. boron, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), polytrap (Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and magnesium carbonate , hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, I3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow, 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 , yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

The composition may further include other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic compositions. Such ingredients may be chosen from antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, sunscreens, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, spreading agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, neutralizers, stabilizers, polymers, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additional ingredients and / or their quantity, such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

The compositions according to the invention may be in any acceptable and customary form for a cosmetic composition. They can therefore be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion including oil in water with vesicles; an organic or oily solution optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an oily or emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, in particular lipids; a biphase or multiphase lotion; a spray; a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and especially stick or cup, or compacted solid. Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support. and on the other hand the application envisaged for the composition.

The compositions according to the invention can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials such as the hair, the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly for the makeup of the lips, nails, eyelashes and / or face. They can therefore be in the form of a care product and / or makeup of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, leather hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning, hygiene and / or hair care. They are advantageously in the form of makeup composition, including mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, lip balm, blush, eyeshadow, foundation, tattoo product, mascara, eyeliner, nail polish; they may also be in the form of an antiperspirant, an artificial tanning product for the skin, a hair coloring product, or a hair care product.

The invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the eyebrows, the hair, the scalp and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application on said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined above. This process according to the invention makes it possible in particular to make up said keratin materials, in particular the lips, the face, the eyelids and / or the cheeks, by application of a composition of lipstick, eyeshadow or cheeks, or foundation, according to the invention.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following exemplary embodiments.

EXAMPLE 1 Functionalized Beeswax 13 g of beeswax are mixed with 11 mg of dibutyltin dilaurate (catalyst) and 0.93 g of methylisocytosine. The mixture is heated to 100 ° C and evacuated for 2 hours. The mixture is then lowered to 70 ° C. under argon and 1.5 g of isophorone diisocyanate are added; mixed under argon for 2 hours at 70 ° C. 2.5 ml of anhydrous propylene carbonate are then added, and the temperature of the reaction medium is raised to 140 ° C. under argon and with stirring for 3 hours at this temperature. The disappearance of the isocyanate functions is monitored by infrared spectroscopy, until complete disappearance of the characteristic peak at 2250 cm -1. The temperature of the mixture is then reduced to 70 ° C, and 60 ml of tetrahydrofuran and 5 ml of ethanol are added followed by stirring for 30 minutes. The reaction mixture is filtered through celite, precipitated in ethanol and dried under reduced pressure. The desired functionalized wax is obtained in the form of a white wax.

EXAMPLE 2 Functionalized Cetyl Alcohol 19.3 g of cetyl alcohol are heated under reduced pressure at 60 ° C. and after two hours 10 ml of anhydrous butyl acetate are added; the mixture is brought to 40 ° C., still under a controlled atmosphere. 18.9 g of IPDI (isophorone diisocyanate) and then an additional 10 ml of butyl acetate and 9 mg of catalyst (dibutyltin dilaurate) are then added. The reaction mixture is stirred for 16 hours at 40 ° C under a controlled atmosphere. 12.73 g of methyl isocytosine and 20 ml of anhydrous propylene carbonate are then added, and the mixture is brought to 140 ° C. and the temperature is maintained for 2.5 hours. The disappearance of the isocyanates is monitored by IR spectroscopy, and after the disappearance of the characteristic peak of the isocyanates (2250 cm -1), stirring is maintained for a further 30 minutes. The reaction medium is brought to 70 ° C., diluted with 200 ml of hexane and filtered on celite. This organic phase is washed three times with a mixture of H2O / ethanol (2/1) saturated with NaCl, then dried over Na2SO4, filtered and dried under reduced pressure. The desired product is obtained in the form of a brittle solid.

Example 3 The use of a functionalized wax ureïdopyrimidone (beeswax) in a solvent according to the invention and in a conventional solvent was compared: Parléam.

The functionalized beeswax prepared in Example 1 is used at 15% by weight in the solvent. The solvent according to the invention tested is the following: 0 (av) Wax Solvent Observations non-functional beeswax Parlmeam A homogenized mixture (reference) gene and structured wax of Example 1 is obtained. Parléam A liquid is obtained (loss of (functionalized) structure), nonhomogeneous (poor solubility); we lose structuring properties. Wax of Example 1 Solvent according to the invention Wax (no loss (functionalized) structure) and a homogeneous mixture; we keep the structuring properties.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, (i) at least one compound (functionalized wax ureïdopyrimidone) obtainable by reaction between: - at least one wax carrying at least one reactive functional group chosen from OH or COOH and at least one linking group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds with one or more joint joining groups, each pairing of a linking group involving at least 4 hydrogen bonds, said joining group carrying at least one function said reactive reactive reactive with the reactive function carried by the wax, said joining group comprising at least one unit of formula (1) or (II): ## STR2 ## O (1) (II) in which: R1 and R3, which are identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from (i) a linear or branched C1-C32 alkyl group, (ii) a C4-C16 cycloalkyl group and ( iii) a C4-C16 aryl group, optionally comprising 1 to 8 heteroatoms selected from O, N, S, F, Si and P; and / or optionally substituted with an ester, amide or a C1-C12 alkyl radical; or a mixture of these groups; R2 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic, C1-C32 hydrogen or carbon radical, which may include one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N; S, F, Si and P; and (ii) at least one compound of formula (1 '), alone or in admixture, and / or one of its salts and / or isomers and / or solvates: O R'3 O-R'l R'2 N IN In which: R '1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C20 linear or C3-C20 branched linear alkyl radical; R '2 denotes a linear C 1 -C 20 or branched C 3 -C 20 alkyl radical which may contain a C 5 -C 6 ring; a C5-C6 cycloalkyl radical optionally substituted by one or two methyl radicals; the phenyl radical, the benzyl radical or the phenethyl radical; R'3 and R'4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 12 or branched C 3 -C 12 alkyl radical, it being understood that when R'1 = H, the compounds may be in their free acid form or in the form of their cosmetically acceptable salts. 2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the wax carrying at least one reactive functional group chosen from OH or COOH, is chosen from among, alone or in a mixture: (i) long chain alcohols, generally linear, of formula CH3 - (CH2) n-OH with n between 13 and 60, in particular between 15 and 47, or even between 15 and 31. (ii) the long chain, saturated or unsaturated, generally linear, C8-C60 acids; (iii) calcium lanolates or stearates. (iv) lanolin and its derivatives, such as hydrogenated, hydroxylated or acetylated lanolin, lanolin alcohols, lanolin fatty acids and acetylated lanolin alcohol; (v) polyolefin waxes, especially homopolymers and copolymers of poly (alpha-olefins), optionally polyoxyalkylenated (C2-C3 alkyl), optionally (poly) glycerolated, and bearing at least one -OH, -COOH or carboxylic acid anhydride; (vi) natural waxes which have a significant fraction of free fatty alcohols and / or free fatty acids; (vii) so-called natural polyoxyethylenated (bearing a terminal OH) or polyglycerolated (several lateral OH and a terminal OH) waxes; (viii) silicone waxes, such as, for example, polyether silicone waxes, and alkyl or alkoxydimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms; (ix) polyoxyalkylenated C 12 -C 40 fatty alcohols, especially bearing at least one C 12 -C 40 alkyl group, and a polyoxyalkylene group, preferably polyoxyethylenated and / or polyoxypropylenated, and terminated by an OH; (x) the mono- or multi-esters between at least one polyol, including glycerol and a C8-C40 mono-fatty acid, bearing at least one free OH; and mono- or plurienthers between a polyol and a C8-C40 fatty monoalcohol; (xi) the mono- or multi-esters between at least one C8-C40 polycarboxylic acid and a C8-C40 monoalcohol. (xii) C8-C40 fatty acid esters of C8-C40 fatty alcohol, bearing in addition to at least one OH group. 3. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the wax carrying at least one reactive functional group selected from OH or COOH, is chosen from cetyl alcohol, beeswax, carnauba wax and jojoba wax, and mixtures thereof. 4. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the junction group of formula (1) or (II) is such that: - the radical R1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH2) 6- or 4 4'-methylene biscyclohexylene; and / or - the radical R2 represents H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); and / or - the radical R3 represents a divalent radical of structure: ## STR3 ## 5. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the junction group is chosen from: - groups of formula: ## STR1 ## in which: R 1 represents -isophorone -, - (CH2) 6-, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2, 4,41-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; R2 is H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl, or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); or the groups of formula: embedded image in which: R 1 represents -isophorone-, - (CH 2) 2 -, - (CH 2) 6 -, -CH2CH (CH3) -CH2-C (CH3) 2-CH2-CH2, 4,4'-methylenebiscyclohexylene, 2-methyl-1,3-phenylene; R2 represents H, CH3, ethyl, C13H27, C7H15, phenyl, isopropyl, isobutyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl, n-propyl or -CH (C2H5) (C4H9); - R3 represents a divalent radical -R'3-0-C (O) -NH-R'4- in which R'3 and R'4, identical or different, represent a divalent carbon radical chosen from a linear alkyl group or branched C1-C30 or a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group or a C4-C12 aryl group, or mixtures thereof; and in particular R'3 represents a C1-C4 alkylene, especially 1,2-ethylene and R'4 represents the divalent radical derived from isophorone. 6. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the junction group is selected from the following groups: ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## N'H Ox NCO O OCN X ~ N N- 'O 1 1 HH 7. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the number-average molecular weight (Mn) of the functionalized wax ureïdopyrimidone is between 180 and 18,000, preferably 200 and 15,000, or even 300 and 10,000, even better 400 and 5000, preferably 500 and 2500. 8. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the amount of functionalized wax ureïdopyrimidone present in the composition is between 5 and 80% by weight, preferably between 10 and 75% by weight, especially between 20 and 70% by weight, even between 25 and 65% by weight, and better still between 30 and 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition. 9. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the compound of formula (I ') is such that: R'3 and R'4 are hydrogen; and / or R '1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 18 or branched C 3 -C 18 alkyl radical; and better still a C2-C18 or branched C3-20 C10 linear alkyl radical; and / or R'2 denotes a C2-C18 or branched C3-C18 linear alkyl radical; and more preferably a linear C3-C16 or branched C3-C12 alkyl radical; or a cyclohexyl, phenyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical; and still more preferably a linear or branched C4-C10 alkyl radical; and most preferably butyl or 2-ethylhexyl. 25 10. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I ') is chosen from the following products (a) to (bx): OO (a) RN = 59857-86-2 OO (e) RN = 102943-44-2 OO RN = 10080-92-9 OO (f) RN = 59857-84-035 O (c) O (9) RN = 428518-33-6 O RN = 428518-34-7 O (d) R = 428518-32-5 OO (h) O (1) RN = 192717-78-500000 (1) U) RN = 100453-61-0 RN = 59857-87-3 RN = 856637- 16-6 RN = 1 01 572-83-2 OO (p) RN = 59857-85-1 OO (a) RN = 873969-57-4 (r) RN = 60298-1 9-3 (s) OO ( u) O (W) (t) RN = 593253-22-6 (Y) (z) (aa) 7 IV`O (ab) (ad) (ae) O RN = 147452-59-3 RN = 100878- = RN RN = 856636-64-1 RN = 100252-83-3 RN = 106783-22-6 RN = 66397-80-60 RN = 101572-84-3 RN = 102180-23 RN = 102444-77-9 (ap) RN = 100718-54-5 (aq) RN = 64320-92-9 OO x-NO (at) (as) RN = 91957-98-1 RN = 1 0 RN = 208118-23-4 (ba) RN = 43094-86-6H OH (ay) RN = 52743-73-4 RN = 299920-47-1 O (bb) (bd) RN = 157687-77-9 RN = 944648-73-1 OH RN = 696647-92-4 OH N / (bd) RN = 845546-13-6 OH OH R N = 116167-27-2 RN = 6304-56-9 RN = 944511-54-0 OH (bj) RN = 1211449-66-910RN = 10054-19-0 OH 11. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (I '), alone or as a mixture, is present in an amount of 0.5 to 400/0 by weight, better still 1 to 300 / 0 by weight, or 2 to 250/0 by weight, and preferably from 3 to 200/0 by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises at least one ingredient selected from oils and / or solvents of mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic origin, carbon, hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone, volatile or non-volatile; waxes of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthetic origin, or even silicone; the water; hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols, polyols, polyethylene glycols, glycol ethers, especially C2, and hydrophilic C2-C4 aldehydes; dyestuffs; antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, cosmetic active ingredients, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, sunscreens, surfactants, emulsifiers, thickeners, gelling agents, spreading agents, wetting agents, dispersing agents, defoamers, neutralizers, stabilizers, polymers, and mixtures thereof. 13. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, pre-feeling in the form of a care product and / or make-up of the skin of the body or face, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair , leather hair or nails; a suntan or self-tanning product; a hair product including coloring, conditioning, hygiene and / or hair care. 14. Cosmetic composition according to one of the preceding claims, being in the form of a make-up composition, in particular mascara, lipstick, lip gloss, lip balm, blush, blush. eyelids, foundation, tattoo product, mascara, eyeliner, nail polish; in the form of an antiperspirant, an artificial tanning product for the skin, a hair coloring product, or a hair care product. 15. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, the lips, the nails, the eyebrows, the hair, the scalp and / or the eyelashes, comprising the application on the said materials of a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 14.