FR2971153A1 - Non-coloring cosmetic composition, useful for washing and/or caring of keratin materials, preferably hair, comprises, in aqueous medium, quaternary ammonium cation type ionic liquids, and non-silicone fatty substances - Google Patents

Abstract

Non-coloring cosmetic composition comprises, in an aqueous medium, at least 20 wt.% of one or more quaternary ammonium cation type ionic liquids, and one or more non-silicone fatty substances, where the weight ratio of ionic liquids and fatty substances are >= 5. An independent claim is included for a method of cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, comprising applying the composition to the keratin materials, and then optionally rinsing after a possible exposure time.

Description

B 10-0408FR 1 Non-coloring cosmetic composition comprising at least one ionic liquid with quaternary ammonium cation and at least one non-silicone fatty substance

The present invention relates to a non-coloring cosmetic composition comprising one or more particular ionic liquids and one or more non-silicone fatty substances. The subject of the present invention is also the use of said composition for washing and / or caring for keratin materials, such as human keratin fibers and in particular the hair, as well as a cosmetic treatment method using said composition cosmetic. In the field of hair cosmetics, it is sought to treat keratin fibers subjected to various external aggressions. Indeed, these fibers can undergo assaults of various origins, such as mechanical aggression, for example related to disentangling or blow drying, or chemical aggression, for example following a coloring or a permanent. These attacks have repercussions on the qualities of the keratinous fiber and can induce a difficult disentangling at the time of the washing of the hair, on dry hair and / or wet hair as well as a degradation of the surface properties of the fibers, which become on the surface not smooth and irregular, especially when the hair is dry. There are care products that can limit these phenomena. However, these solutions are not always effective enough. There is therefore a need for compositions that make it possible to convey larger quantities of cosmetic active ingredients onto the keratinous fiber. Patent applications FR 2 839 644, DE 2005 2005 066 355 and DE 2005 056 157, are known compositions for treating keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp and the hair, comprising ionic liquids and various cosmetic active agents. However, none of the described compositions makes it possible to achieve the desired results.

The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of a minimum amount of at least one particular ionic liquid with at least one non-silicone fatty substance made it possible to effectively and sustainably treat the hair. In particular, such a composition makes it possible, on the one hand, to protect the hair and, on the other hand, to impart to it better cosmetic properties, in particular, in terms of reducing the fatness and densification (apparent mass supply), these cosmetic properties being otherwise durable. The subject of the present invention is therefore a non-coloring cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more ionic liquid (s) with quaternary ammonium cation, and one or more non-silicone fatty substances, in a weight ratio of ionic liquid (s) with quaternary ammonium cation / non-silicone fatty substance (s) greater than or equal to 5 This particular combination has proved particularly suitable for hair care and has made it possible to protect and repair the fiber, while providing better cosmetic qualities, such as reduced fatness and densification. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, which consists in applying a composition according to the invention to keratin materials.

In particular, the composition according to the invention can be rinsed or not, and associated or not with chemical and / or mechanical treatments of the hair. The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for washing and / or caring for keratin materials, such as human keratinous fibers and in particular the hair. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are used as shampoo for washing, care and conditioning of hair or conditioners for the care and conditioning of the hair. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

According to the invention, the non-coloring cosmetic composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more ionic liquid (s) with cation of quaternary ammonium type and one or more non-silicone fatty substances, in a weight ratio between the ionic liquid (s) of the quaternary ammonium type and the non-silicone top fatty substance (s) or 5. In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio between the ionic liquid (s) of the quaternary ammonium type and the non-silicone fatty substance (s) is greater than or equal to 10 and more preferably greater than or equal to 15. In a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the quaternary ammonium ionic liquid (s) to the fat (s) ranges from 5 to 2000, better from 10 to 2000, even better from 15 to 2000, more preferably from 15 to 100.

For the purpose of the present invention, the term "ionic liquid" is intended to mean a salt of an organic molecule, said salt having a melting temperature of less than or equal to 150 ° C., preferably less than 100 ° C. Preferably, the salt remains liquid up to 300 ° C., and more preferably the salt is liquid at ambient temperature, that is to say at a temperature of less than or equal to 50 ° C. and greater than 0 ° C. The melting temperature is measured by differential scanning calorimetry, with a temperature rise rate of 10 ° C./min, the melting temperature is then at a temperature corresponding to the peak of the endothermic melting peak obtained during the measurement. In the context of the present invention, the salt is derived from the combination of a mineral or organic anion and an organic cation which is quaternary ammonium. The organic molecule constitutes the cation and the anion can be mineral or organic. The ionic liquid or liquids used according to the invention have a quaternary ammonium organic cation. The quaternary ammonium-type cations preferentially correspond to the following formula (I): in which R1, R2, R3, R4, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 atoms of carbon, and more preferably of 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted by one or more C 6 -C 30 aryl groups, thiols, hydroxy or interrupted by one or more oxygen or sulfur atoms or by one or more NRS groups, RS represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 carbon atoms and preferably from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a C 6 -C 30 aryl group, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups; C4. Preferably, the alkyl group of R 1, R 2, R 3, R 4 is unsubstituted. The ionic liquid (s) have an inorganic or organic anion, preferably chosen from chloride (Cl-), bromide (Br-), tetrachloroaluminate (A1C14-), tetrachloronickel (NiC14-), perchlorate (C1O4-), nitrate (NO3) anions. -), nitrite (NO2-), sulfate (SO42-), alkylsulfate such as methylsulfate (CH3SO4-), hydrogen sulphate, tetrafluoroborate (BF4-), phosphate, (I) phosphate derivatives such as hexafluorophosphate (PF6- ), dibutylphosphate and tris (pentafluoroethyl) trifluorophosphate, hexafluoroantimonate (SbF6-), triflate [TfO] (CF3SO2-), nonaflate [NfO] (CF3 (CF2) 3SO2-), a bis (trifyl) amide ion [Tf2N] ((CF3SO2) 2N-), trifluoroacetate [TA] (CF3CO2-), heptafluorobutanoate [HB] (CF3 (CF2) 3CO2-), acetate (CH3CO2-), acetate derivatives such as trifluoroacetate (CF3CO2-), trifluoromethanesulfonate (CF3SO3-), dicyanamide, hydroxide, salicylate, L - (+) lactate and propionate. Preferably, the anion of the ionic liquid or liquids used according to the invention is chosen from chloride, bromide, alkylsulfate, acetate, hydroxide, alkylphosphate and hydrogenosulphate anions. Preferably, the ionic liquid or liquids used according to the invention may be chosen from the following compounds: tributyl methyl ammonium chloride, tetrabutyl ammonium hydroxide, tributyl methyl ammonium methyl sulphate, tetraethylammonium tetrahydrate, triethyl methyl ammonium dibutylphosphate, and their hydrates.

Particularly preferred ionic liquids are selected from tributyl methyl ammonium chloride, tributyl methyl ammonium methyl sulphate and tetrabutyl ammonium hydroxide. The quaternary ammonium ionic liquid or liquids are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 20 to 99.9% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 99% by weight, better still from 40 to 90% by weight. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. By "fatty substance" is meant an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), that is to say with a solubility of less than 5% and preferably less than 1%, more preferably less than 0.1%. The fatty substances are non-silicone. They generally have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms, and preferably at least 8 carbon atoms, and generally less than 500, more particularly less than 100 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. By "non-silicone fatty substance" is meant a fatty substance whose structure does not comprise more than one silicon atom, and preferably no silicon atom. The fatty substances are preferably selected from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty ethers, non-silicone waxes and mixtures thereof. They can be liquid or non-liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, more preferably less than or equal to 1 Pa.s, and more preferably less than or equal to 0.1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C. C and at a shear rate of 1 s-1.

By liquid hydrocarbon is meant a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon atoms and hydrogen, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), in particular of mineral origin or vegetable, preferably of plant origin.

More particularly, the liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from: linear or branched C6-C16 alkanes, which may be cyclic. By way of examples, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane; linear or branched hydrocarbons of animal mineral origin or synthetic, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, squalane, polydecenes, polyisobutenes optionally hydrogenated such as in particular that sold under the brand Parléam ® by NOF CORPORATION. In a preferred variant, the liquid hydrocarbon or hydrocarbons are chosen from paraffin oils, volatile or otherwise, and petrolatum oil. By liquid fatty alcohol is meant a non-glycerolated and non-oxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). Preferably, the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 50 carbon atoms. The liquid fatty alcohols of the invention can be saturated or unsaturated. Saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid saturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2-hexyldecanol. Octyldodecanol is particularly preferred.

The unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols have in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When more than one double bond is present, it is preferably 2 or 3 and may or may not be conjugated.

These unsaturated fatty alcohols can be linear or branched. They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic cycle or not. Preferably, they are acyclic. More particularly, the liquid unsaturated fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleic (or oleyl) alcohol, linoleic (or linoleyl) alcohol, linolenic (or linolenyl) alcohol and undecylenic alcohol. Oleyl alcohol is particularly preferred.

The fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, where R is a saturated or unsaturated group, linear or branched, preferably containing from 7 to 39 carbon atoms. Preferably, R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group, more preferably a C12-C24 alkyl or C14-C14 alkenyl group. R may be substituted with one or more hydroxy groups and / or one or more carboxyl groups. The fatty acid may in particular be chosen from lauric acid, tridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, and stearic acid. These fatty acids must be non-salified so as not to give birth to soaps that are generally water-soluble or water-dispersible. By liquid fatty esters is meant an ester derived from a fatty acid and / or a fatty alcohol, liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa). The esters are preferably the liquid esters of linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyacids and linear or branched C 1 -C 26 saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of the carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10. Preferably, for the monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of 2 ethylhexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and isononyl isononoate. It is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar alcohols di-, tri- , pentahydroxylated C4-C26 tetraou.

Mention may especially be made of diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl) sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di-n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, di-di-adipate and the like. (2-ethylhexyl), diisostearyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) maleate, triisopropyl citrate, triisocetyl citrate, trisostearyl citrate, glyceryl trilactate, glyceryl trioctanoate, citrate of trioctyldodecyl, trioleyl citrate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, and diethylene glycol diisononate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and diesters of sugars and of C6-C30 fatty acids, preferably of C12-C22 fatty acids. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their alkylated derivatives, such as than methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise.

Among the mixtures. These palmitates, linolenates, esters according to this variant can also be chosen mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and their

esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, caprates, arachidonates, and mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, the oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate mixed esters. More particularly, mono- and di-esters, and especially mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates, oleostearates, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose are used. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Finally, it is also possible to use natural or synthetic esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol. Among these, we can mention vegetable oils. As vegetable oils or synthetic triglycerides, used in the composition of the invention as liquid fatty esters, there may be mentioned for example: triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, olive, rapeseed, copra, wheat germ, sweet almond, apricot, safflower, bancoulan nut , camellina, tamanu, babassu and pracaxi, the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, the oil jojoba, shea butter oil ed. Preferably, as esters according to the invention, liquid fatty esters derived from monoalcohols will be used.

Myristate or isopropyl palmitate are particularly preferred. The liquid fatty ethers are chosen from liquid dialkyl ethers such as dicaprylyl ether.

The fatty substance (s) used in the composition according to the invention may also be non-liquid fatty substances at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa).

The term "non-liquid" preferably means a solid compound or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at a shear rate of 1 s -1. More particularly, non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and fatty, non-liquid and preferably solid ethers. The non-liquid fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated alcohols, linear or branched, containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, behenyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof (for example, cetylstearyl alcohol) may be mentioned. As regards the fatty acid esters and / or non-liquid fatty alcohols, there may be mentioned in particular solid esters derived from C 9 -C 26 fatty acids and C 9 -C 26 fatty alcohols. Among these esters, mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, mirystyl or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate. Still within the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and alcohols. di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxylated C2-C26. The solid fatty esters used in the composition of the invention are preferably saturated fatty acid esters, and in particular saturated carboxylic acid esters having at least 10 carbon atoms, and saturated fatty monoalcohols containing at least 10 atoms. of carbon. Saturated acids or monoalcohols may be linear or branched. The saturated carboxylic acids preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. They can be optionally hydroxylated. The saturated fatty monoalcohols preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty esters are chosen from myristyl, cetyl and stearyl myristates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates, myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates, behenyl benenate, and mixtures thereof. . The non-silicone wax or waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina) and ceramides.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, are known in themselves and are natural or synthetic molecules that can meet the following general formula (II): ## STR2 ## In which: R 6 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C 14 -C 30 fatty acids, this group possibly being substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or an omega-hydroxyl group, esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C16-C30 fatty acid, -R7 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl), (galactosyl) m or sulphogalactosyl group, in which n is a integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8, - Rg denotes a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups; , it being understood that in the As ceramides or natural glycoceramides, R3 can also denote a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxy acid. Preferred ceramides in the context of the present invention are those described by DOWNING in Arch. Dermatol, Vol. 123, 1381-1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2,673,179. The most preferred ceramides or ceramides according to the invention are the compounds for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C 16 fatty acids. -C22, R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a linear group saturated with C15. Such compounds are, for example, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, or mixtures thereof. Even more preferably, the ceramides for which R 1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from fatty acids, R 2 denotes a galactosyl or sulphogalactosyl group and R 3 denotes a -CH =CH- (CH 2) 12 -CH 3 group.

Other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as those sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general.

The non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture. Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances according to the invention are chosen from non-salified fatty acids, hydrocarbons, triglyceride oils, in particular of plant origin, and ceramides. The non-silicone fatty substance or fats are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.01 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 60%, better still from 0.1 to 20%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more silicones. The silicones that may be used in the compositions of the present invention are, in particular, polyorganosiloxanes which may be in the form of aqueous solutions, that is to say solubilized solutions, or optionally in the form of dispersions or micro-dispersions, or emulsions. aqueous. The polyorganosiloxanes may also be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academie Press. Silicones can be volatile or non-volatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic silicones containing from 3 to 7 silicon atoms and preferably 4 to 5. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the "VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109" marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of chemical structure: ## STR2 ## with D ': CH 3 with D ": Si-O - 1 CsH17 CH3 Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 (2,2,2 ', 2', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane (ii) linear volatile silicones having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5.10-6 m2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone, silicones entering this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics an 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". When the silicones are nonvolatile, polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with organofunctional groups and their mixtures are preferably used. These silicones are more particularly chosen from polyalkylsiloxanes, among which, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes containing trimethylsilyl end groups (dimethicone according to the CTFA name) having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. and preferably 1 × 10 -5 to 1 m2 / s. The viscosity of the silicones is, for example, measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C. Among these polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: - SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or oils MIRASIL marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil, MIRASIL series oils marketed by RHODIA, 200 series oils from Dow Corning, such as more particularly DC200. viscosity 60 000 Cst, - VISCASIL oils from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups (Dimethiconol according to the CTFA name), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company Rhodia. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes containing aminoethyl, aminopropyl and alpha-omega silanol groups. In this class of polyalkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are poly (C1-C20) alkylsiloxanes.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethylmethylphenylsiloxanes and linear and / or branched polydimethyl diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity of from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made, by way of example, of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; oils of RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series from RHODIA - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning, - Silicones from the PK series from Bayer as the PK20 product, - Silicones from the PN, PH series from the Bayer company, such as PN1000 products and PH1000, certain oils of SF series of the company GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. The silicone gums that may be present in the composition according to the invention are especially polydiorganosiloxanes having average molecular weights in large numbers between 200 000 and 1 000 000, used alone or mixed in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecanes or their mixtures.

Mention may be made more particularly of the following products: polydimethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / phenylmethylsiloxane gums, polydimethylsiloxane / diphenylsiloxane / methylvinylsiloxane gums. More particularly useful products are the following mixtures: - mixtures formed from a hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane at the end of the chain (called dimethiconol according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane (called cyclomethicone according to the CTFA dictionary nomenclature ) such as the product Q2 1401 sold by the company Dow Corning, the mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane gum with a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number-average molecular weight of 500,000, solubilized in SF 1202 Silicone Fluid oil corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, - blends of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and of a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company GENERAL ELECTRIC. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5.10-6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins optionally present in the composition according to the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: RzSiOziz, R3SiO1i2, RSiO3i2 and SiO4i2 in which R represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 16 carbon atoms or a phenyl group. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, more particularly methyl, or a phenyl group. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones optionally present in the composition according to the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon group. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C 6 -C 24 alkyl groups such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and the alkyl (C12) methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200, thiol groups such as the products sold under the names " GP 72 A "and" GP 71 "from the company GENESEE, - alkoxylated groups such as the product sold under the name" SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755 "by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT, - hydroxyl groups such as the hydroxyalkyl-functional polyorganosiloxanes described in the French patent application FR 2,589,476; acyloxyalkyl groups such as, for example, the polyorganosiloxanes described in US-A-4957732, anionic groups of the carboxylic type such as, for example, in the products described in the patent EP 186 507 of the company CHISSO CORPORATION, or alkylcarboxylic type such as those present in the product X-22-3701E from the company Shinetsu, 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate, 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulphate such as the products sold by GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL 5201" and "ABIL 5255", - groups hydroxyacylamino, such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in application EP 342 834. There may be mentioned for example the product Q2-8413 from Dow Corning. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may also be made of amino silicones.

By "amino silicone" is meant any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group. The aminated silicones optionally used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are chosen from: (a) the compounds corresponding to the following formula (III): (R 1) a (T) 3-a Si [OSl (T) 2] n [OSl (T) b (R ') 2-bLOS1 (T) 3-a (R') - (III)

wherein: T is a hydrogen atom, or a phenyl, hydroxyl (-OH), or (C1-C8) alkyl, and preferably methyl, or (C1-C8) alkoxy, preferably methoxy, wherein a is the number 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, and preferably 0, b denotes 0 or 1, and in particular 1, m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) may vary in particular from 1 to 2,000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to denote a number from 0 to 1,999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2,000, and especially from 1 to 10, R1 is a monovalent group of formula -CgH2gL wherein q is 2 to 8 and L is an optionally quaternized amino group selected from the groups: -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 2) 2, -N (R 2) 2, - N + (R 2) 3 Q, - N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-, - N + (R 2) 2HQ-, -N (R 2) -CH 2 -CH 2 -N + (R 2) (H) 2 Q-, in which R 2 can designate a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, or a saturated monovalent hydrocarbon group, by e for example, C 1 -C 20 alkyl, and Q- represents

a halide ion such as, for example, fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide. In particular, the amino silicones corresponding to the definition of formula (III) are chosen from the compounds corresponding to the following formula (IV): embedded image CH 3 R 'm CH 3 O-Si-R "CH 3 NH 2 (IV)

wherein R, R ', R ", which may be identical or different, denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, preferably CH 3, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group, preferably a methoxy group, or OH, A represents a linear alkylene group; or branched, C3-C8, preferably C3-C6, m and n are integers dependent on the molecular weight and whose sum is between 1 and 2000. According to a first possibility, R, R 'and R " , identical or different, each represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyl group, A represents a C 3 alkylene group and m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between about 5,000 and 500,000. Compounds of this type are referred to in the CTFA dictionary as "amodimethicone". According to a second possibility, R, R 'and R ", which are identical or different, each represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the R or R" groups is an alkoxy group and A represents an alkylene group. in C3. The hydroxyl / alkoxy molar ratio is preferably between 0.2 / 1 and 0.4 / 1 and advantageously equal to 0.3 / 1. Moreover, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 106. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. In this category of compounds, mention may be made inter alia of the Belsil®ADM 652 product marketed by WACKER. According to a third possibility, R and R ", each different, represent a C1-C4 alkoxy or hydroxyl group, at least one of the groups R and R" being an alkoxy group, R 'representing a methyl group and A representing a C3 alkylene group. The molar ratio of hydroxy / alkoxy is preferably between 1 / 0.8 and 1 / 1.1, and advantageously is equal to 1 / 0.95. Furthermore, m and n are such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is between 2000 and 200000. More particularly, n is between 0 and 999 and m is between 1 and 1000, the sum of n and m being between 1 and 1000. More particularly, there may be mentioned the product F1uidWR® 1300, sold by the company Wacker. Note that the molecular weight of these silicones is determined by gel permeation chromatography (ambient temperature, polystyrene standard, μ styragem columns, THF eluent, flow rate of 1 mm / m, 200 μl of a 0.5% solution are injected by weight of silicone in THF and the detection is carried out by refractometry and UV-metry). A product corresponding to the definition of formula (III) is in particular the polymer referred to in the CTFA dictionary "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", corresponding to the following formula (V): (CH 3) 3 SiO CH 3 1 SiO 1 CH 3 CH 3 SiO I CH 2 1 CHCH3 I CH2 1 NH 1 (i H2) 2

NH 2 Si (CH 3) 3 m (V) wherein n and m have the meanings given above according to formula (IV).

Such compounds are described for example in EP 95238. A compound of formula (V) is, for example, sold under the name Q2-8220 by the company OSI. (b) the compounds of formula (VI) below:

R4 CH2 CHOH-CH2-N + (R3) 3Q R3 Si O

1 R3 R3 r s (VI) in which:

R 3 represents a monovalent C 1 -C 18 hydrocarbon group, and in particular C 1 -C 18 alkyl or C 2 -C 18 alkenyl, for example methyl,

R 4 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy group,

Q- is a halide ion, especially chloride, r represents an average statistical value of 2 to 20 and in particular 2 to 8, s represents an average statistical value of 20 to 200 and in particular of 20 to 50.

Such compounds are described more particularly in US Patent 4185087. A compound in this class is that sold by UNION CARBIDE under the name "Ucar Silicone ALE 56". c) the quaternary ammonium silicones, especially of formula (VII) below: ## STR5 ## in which: R 6, which may be identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C1-C18 alkyl group, a C2-C1 g alkenyl group or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl, R5 represents a divalent hydrocarbon group, in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkylene group or a divalent C 1 -C 18, for example C 1 -C 8, alkyleneoxy group connected to Si by an Si-C bond, R 7, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a hydrocarbon group; monovalent having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C 1 -C 18 alkyl group, a C 1 -C 18 alkenyl group, a -R 5 -NHCOR 6 group, X - is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt (acetate, ...), R 6 OH 7 R 1 -CH 2 CH-CH 2 R R 6 represents an average statistical value of 2 to 200 and in particular 5 to 100. These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974. d) the amino silicones of formula (VIII) below: (VIII) x O 3 in which: - R8, R9, R10 and R11, which are identical or different, each denote a C1-C4 alkyl group or a phenyl group, - R12 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl group or a hydroxyl group, - n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, - m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and - x is chosen such that the amine number is between 0.01 and 1 meq / g. When these compounds are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use together with cationic and / or nonionic surfactants. By way of example, it is possible to use the product sold under the name "Cationic Emulsion DC 939" by the company Dow Corning, which comprises, in addition to amodimethicone, a cationic surfactant which is trimethylketylammonium chloride and a nonionic surface, of formula C13H27- (OC2H4) 12-OH, known under the name CTFA "trideceth-12". Another commercial product that can be used according to the invention is the product sold under the name "Dow Corning Q2 7224" by the company Dow Corning, comprising in combination the trimethylsilylamodimethicone of formula (IV) described above, a nonionic surfactant of formula C8H17-C6H4- (OCH2CH2) 40-OH, known under the name CTFA "octoxynol-40", a second nonionic surfactant of the formula C12H25- (OCH2-CH2) 6-OH, known under the name CTFA "isolaureth -6 ", and propylene glycol. The silicones of the invention may also be anionic grafted silicones such as compounds VS 80 or VS 70 proposed by the company 3M.

In a more preferred embodiment, the silicone is a chemically unmodified polydimethylsiloxane. The silicone or silicones may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

By "aqueous medium" is meant a medium comprising water. Preferably, the water content of the composition of the invention ranges from 1 to 75%, better still from 5 to 75%, and still more preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to water, the composition according to the invention may contain one or more organic solvents which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 1.013 × 10 5 Pa), other than the ionic liquids of the invention. Preferably, the liquid organic solvent (s) is (are) chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol, polyols such as propylene glycol and glycerol, polyols, and mixtures thereof. The composition according to the invention may further contain one or more additives chosen from pearlescent agents, opacifying agents, plasticizing agents, mineral or organic thickeners, and in particular ionic or nonionic, associative or non-associative thickening polymers, treating agents, perfumes, dyes, preservatives, pH modifying agents, mineral fillers, flakes and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetics field. These additives may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition as described above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing. When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. The application of the composition according to the invention to hair can be done on dry hair or wet hair. It can in particular be carried out after shampooing or after pretreatment at acidic or basic pH. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

In the following examples, all the amounts are indicated as a percentage by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition.

Example 1

The following compositions A to D according to the invention are prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below. ABCD 2-1,3-oleamido-0.1% 0.1% 0.1% 5% octadecanediol (1) Tributyl chloride 50% - - 50% methyl ammonium Tributyl methyl sulphate - 40% - - methyl ammonium Hydroxide tetrabutyl - - 80% - ammonium Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% qs 100% (1) ceramide sold under the name Mexanyl GZ by the company Chimex.

Example 2

The following compositions E to H are prepared according to the invention from the ingredients indicated in the table below. EFGH Tridecanoic acid 5% 5% 1% 5% Tributyl chloride 50% - - - methyl ammonium Tributyl methylsulphate - 80% - 95% methyl ammonium Tetrabutyl hydroxide - - 40% - ammonium Water qs 100% qs 100% qs 100 % - 28

Claims (5)

REVENDICATIONS1. A nondigable cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium, at least 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more ionic liquid (s) with a quaternary ammonium cation, and one or more non-silicone fatty substances, in a liquid ratio (s) ionic (s) of quaternary ammonium type / non-silicone fatty substance (s) greater than or equal to 5. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium type cations have the following formula (I): in which R1, R2, R3, R4, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and better still from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more C 6 -C 30 aryl groups, thiols, hydroxy or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms or sulfur or with one or more NRS groups, RS represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 5 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or a C 6 -C 30 aryl group, optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ionic liquid or liquids have a mineral or organic anion preferably chosen from chloride anions (Cr), bromide (Br-), tetrachloroaluminate (AlC14-), (I) tetrachloronickel (NiC14), perchlorate (C1O4), nitrate (NO3), nitrite (NO2-), sulfate (SO42-), alkylsulfate such as methylsulfate (CH3SO4-), hydrogen sulphate, tetrafluoroborate (BF4-), phosphate, phosphate derivatives such as hexafluorophosphate (PF6-), dibutylphosphate and tris (pentafluoroethyl) trifluorophosphate, hexafluoroantimonate (SbF6-), triflate [TfO] (CF3SO2-), nonaflate [NfO] (CF3 (CF2) 3SO2-) , bis (trifyl) amide [Tf2N] ((CF3SO2) 2N-), trifluoroacetate [TA] (CF3CO2-), heptafluorobutanoate [HB] (CF3 (CF2) 3CO2-), acetate (CH3CO2-), derivatives of acetate such as trifluoroacetate (CF3CO2-), trifluoromethanesulfonate (CF3SO3), dicyanamide, hydroxide, salicylate, L - (+) lactate and propiona you. 4. Composition according to Claim 3, characterized in that the anion of the ionic liquid (s) is chosen from chloride, bromide, alkyl sulphate, acetate, hydroxide, alkyl phosphate and hydrogen sulphate anions. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ionic liquid or liquids are chosen from: - tributyl methyl ammonium chloride, - tetrabutyl ammonium hydroxide, - tributyl methyl ammonium methyl sulphate, - tetraethylammonium acetate tetrahydrate; triethylmethylammonium dibutylphosphate, more preferably tributylmethylammonium chloride, tributylmethylammonium methylsulfate and tetrabutylammonium hydroxide. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ionic liquid or liquids are present in proportions ranging from 20 to 99.9% by weight, more preferably from 30 to 99% by weight, more preferably from 40 to 99.9% by weight. at 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-silicone fatty substance or fats are chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, non-salified fatty acids, fatty esters, fatty ethers and non-silicone waxes. and their mixtures. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-silicone fatty substance or fats are chosen from non-salified fatty acids, hydrocarbons, triglyceride oils and ceramides. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-silicone fatty substance or fats are present in proportions of 0.01 to 90% by weight, more preferably 0.05 to 60%, better still 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the ionic liquid (s) quaternary ammonium type (s) and the (s) non-silicone fatty substance (s) is greater or equal to 10, more preferably is greater than or equal to 15, and preferably ranges from 15 to 2000, even more preferably from 15 to 100. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises in part in addition to one or more silicones, preferably present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a water content ranging from 1 to 75%, more preferably from 5 to 75%, more preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises one or more organic solvents which are liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, other than the ionic liquids of formula (I), chosen from alcohols. C1-C4 lower alkyls, polyols, polyol ethers, and mixtures thereof. 14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, then to be performed or not. a rinse after a possible exposure time. 15. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for washing and / or care of keratin materials, such as human keratin fibers and in particular the hair.