FR2968300A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful as sunscreen, hair shampoos and hair gels, and for making up of the skin of body or face, lips and hair, comprises an alkene-sulfonated compound, or its salt or solvate, in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises at least an alkene-sulfonated compound (I), or its salt or solvate, in a medium. Cosmetic composition comprises at least an alkene-sulfonated compound of formula ([CH 3-CH 2-CH(CH 3)-(CH 2) q-CH=CH-(CH 2) r-CH 2-C(=O)-X-C(R 1>)(R 2>)-C(R 3>)(R 4>)-(CH 2) n-S] p-Y 1>) (I), or its salt or solvate, in a medium. R 1>-R 4>1-3C-alkyl, 3C-alkyl (both optionally substituted by COOR1a), H, OH, COOR1a, CONR1bR1c; R1a : 1-6C-alkyl, 3-6C-alkyl (both optionally substituted by -NH 2), (di)-1-6C-alkylamino, H or OR1d; R1b, R1c : 1-6C-alkyl, 3-6C-alkyl (both optionally substituted by NH 2), H or (di)-1-6C- alkylamino or OR1d; R1d : H or 1-6C-alkyl or 3-6C-alkyl; X : O or NR1d; p : 1 or 2; n : 0 or 1; q : 0-10; r : 0-16; and Y 1>H, a thiol protecting group (when p is 1), or a covalent bond (when p is 2). Independent claims are included for: (1) the alkene-sulfonated compound (I); (2) the cosmetic treatment of the keratin materials comprising simultaneously or separately applying the composition and at least one reducing agent or a base to the keratin materials, rubbing the keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, for 2-30 minutes and/or optionally rinsing with a solution preferably comprising a mild aqueous oxidizing agent; and (3) a kit with two or parts, comprising (I).

Description

The present invention relates to novel compounds, to their use in cosmetics, in particular in capillaries, as well as to compositions comprising them.

It is known that certain hair treatments, such as coloring or permeant, can attack the hair fiber and in particular cause the loss of some of its constituents present in the natural state, in particular fatty acids such as eicosanoic methyl. Hair products currently pro-posed, however, do not relipider in a sustainable way the fiber thus damaged.

It is known that the cosmetic qualities of the hair can be improved by the application of various active-based compositions which make it possible to confer on them various properties such as glossiness, ease of disentangling, swelling, suppleness, nervousness or softness. To obtain good efficacy, it is of course understood that these active agents have vis-à-vis keratin fibers, a certain affinity and good persistence. In other words, these assets must, as far as possible, remain attached to the hair in an amount sufficient to confer the desired properties. In order to improve the remanence of these active agents on the hair, it has been proposed in particular, for example by the document WO2008 / 156327, a composition comprising lipids carrying functional groups, covalently bound to the surface of the hair. keratin materials, skin or hair. The functional groups are very preferably chosen from hydroxysuccinimidyl ester or ma-Ieimide groups, other functional groups such as thiol or disulfide also being mentioned. Lipids in turn are C8-C28 fatty acids, preferably ramified (iso or anteiso).

One of the aims of the present invention is to propose novel compounds capable of giving back to an abraded fiber the surface physicochemical properties of a natural fiber in a lasting manner over time. We can talk about relipider fiber. It can be considered that the compounds according to the invention will allow the damaged fiber to find a hydrophobic surface state close to that of natural hair and this in a sustainable manner. The hair would thus be less sensitive to changes in physicochemical properties caused by the penetration of water inside the hair fiber. The disentangling is thus easier, the hair is more nervous and less fragile. The general appearance of the hair is improved, the treated hair is softer, brighter, easier to unravel and styling.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one compound of formula (1) as defined below, or a salt or solvate thereof. The subject of the invention is also the compounds of formula (1) as defined below, as well as their salts or solvates.

The compounds according to the invention therefore correspond to the formula (1): ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## R4 (1) wherein: - p is 1 or 2; n is 0 or 1; q is an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive; r is an integer between 0 and 16 inclusive; - R1, R2, R3, R4 denote, independently of one another, a radical selected from (i) a hydrogen atom, (ii) an OH, COORa or CONRbRc radical, (iii) an alkyl radical, linear C1-C3 or branched C3, optionally substituted with a group COORa; with Ra denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 6 or branched C 3 -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with a radical -NH 2 or (di) alkyl-C 1 -C 6 -amino or -ORd; Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 linear alkyl radical, optionally substituted by an -NH2 or (di) C1-C6-alkyl-amino radical; or -ORd; Rd denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 alkyl radical;

X represents O or NRd; it being understood that: - when p = 1, then Y represents a hydrogen atom or a protective group of thiol function; when p = 2, then Y represents a covalent bond. Thiol protecting group is understood to mean a protecting group known to those skilled in the art, such as for example those described in the following publications: "Protective Groups in Organic Synthesis" by TW Greene, John Willey & Sons ed., NY , 1981, pp.193-217 or "Protecting Groups" by Kocienski, Thieme, 3rd ed., 2005, chap. 5. When Y is a protecting group of thiol function, it may in particular represent a group: - (C 1 -C 4) alkylcarbonyl such as methylcarbonyl or ethylcarbonyl; - (C1-C4) alkylthiocarbonyl; - (C1-C4) alkoxycarbonyl; Y P25 - (C1-C4) alkoxythiocarbonyl; - (C1-C4) alkylthiothiocarbonyl; - (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl such as dimethylaminocarbonyl; - (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminothiocarbonyl; arylcarbonyl, such as phenylcarbonyl; aryloxycarbonyl; aryl (C1-C4) alkoxycarbonyl; - (C1-C4) (alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl; carboxy; - SO3-, M + with M + representing an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium; aryl optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyls; especially phenyl, dibenzosuberyl, or 1,3,5-cycloheptatrienyl; optionally substituted heteroaryl, in particular cationic or non-heteroaryl heteroaryls, comprising from 1 to 4 following heteroatoms: i) monocyclic with 5, 6 or 7 members such as furanyl or furyl, pyrrolyl or pyrryl, thiophenyl or thienyl, pyrazolyl , oxazolyl, oxazolium, isoxazolyl, isoxazolium, thiazolyl, thiazolium, isothiazolyl, isothiazolium, 1,2,4-triazolyl, 1,2,4-triazolium, 1,2,3-triazolyl, 1,2,3-triazolium, 1 2,4-oxazolyl, 1,2,4-oxazolium, 1,2,4-thiadiazolyl, 1,2,4-thiadiazolium, pyrylium, thiopyridyl, pyridinium, pyrimidinyl, pyrimidinium, pyrazinyl, pyrazinium, pyridazinyl, pyridazinium, triazinyl, triazinium, tetrazinyl, tetrazinium, azepine, azepinium, oxazepinyl, oxazepinium, thiepinyl, thiepinium, imidazolyl, imidazolium; ii) 8 to 11-membered bicyclics such as indolyl, indolinium, benzoimidazolyl, benzoimidazolium, benzoxazolyl, benzoxazolium, dihydrobenzoxazolinyl, benzothiazolyl, benzothiazolium, pyridoimidazolyl, pyridoimidazolium, thienocycloheptadienyl, these mono or bicyclic groups being optionally substituted by one or more groups (C1-C4) alkyl as methyl, or polyhalo (C1-C4) alkyl as trifluoromethyl; Iii) tricyclic ABCs according to: wherein both rings A and C optionally comprise a heteroatom, and ring B is a 5-, 6- or 7-membered, particularly 6-membered, ring and contains at least one heteroatom, such as pyperidyl pyranyl;

optionally substituted heterocycloalkyl, optionally cationic; the heterocycloalkyl group especially represents a saturated or partially saturated 5-, 6- or 7-membered monocyclic group comprising from 1 to 4 heteroatoms selected from O, S and N, such as di / tetrahydrofuranyl, di / tetrahydrothiophenyl, di / tetrahydropyrrolyl, di / tetrahydropyranyl, di / tetra / hexahydrothiopyranyl, dihydropyranyl, piperazinyl, piperidinyl, tetramethylpiperidinyl, morpholinyl, di / tetra / hexahydroazepinyl, di / tetrahydropyrimidinyl these groups being optionally substituted by one or more (C1-C4) alkyl, oxo or thioxo groups; or the heterocycle represents the following group: R '; CR'eRn in which R'c, R'd, R'e, R'f, R'g and R'h, identical or different, represent an atom of hydrogen or a group (C1-C4) alkyl, or two groups R'g with R'h, and / or R'e with R'f form an oxo or thioxo group, or else R'g with R'e together form a cycloalkyl; and v represents an integer inclusive of between 1 and 3; preferentially R'c to R'h represent a hydrogen atom; and An- represents a counterion; isothiouronium -C (NR'cR'd) = N + R'eR'f; An- with R'c, R'd, R'e and R'f, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C1-C4) alkyl group; preferentially R'c to R'f represent a hydrogen atom; and An- represents a counterion; isothiourea -C (NR'cR'd) = NR'e with R'c, R'd, R'e, as defined previously; optionally substituted (di) aryl (C1-C4) alkyl, such as 9-anthracenylmethyl, phenylmethyl or diphenylmethyl optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen in particular from (C1-C4) alkyl, (C1-C4) alkoxy such as methoxy; hydroxy, (C1-C4) alkylcarbonyl, (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) amino such as dimethylamino; - (di) heteroaryl (C1-C4) alkyl optionally substituted, the heteroaryl group is in particular, cationic or non-monocyclic, comprising 5 or 6 members and from 25 to 4 heteroatoms selected from N, O and S, such as groups pyrrolyl, furanyl, thiophenyl, pyridyl, pyridyl N-oxide such as 4-pyridyl or 2-pyridyl-N-oxide, pyrylium, pyridinium, triazinyl, optionally substituted with one or more-groups such as particularly methylated alkyl, advantageously the (di) heteroaryl (C1-C4) alkyl is (di) heteroarylmethyl or (di) heteroarylethyl; - CR1R2R3 with R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, representing a halogen atom or a group selected from (C1-C4) alkyl; (C1-C4) alkoxy; optionally substituted aryl such as phenyl optionally substituted with one or more groups such as (C1-C4) alkyl, (C1-C4) alkoxy, hydroxy; optionally substituted heteroaryl such as thiophenyl, furanyl, pyrrolyl, pyranyl, pyridyl, optionally substituted with a (C1-C4) alkyl group; -P (Z1) R'1 R'2R'3 with R'1 and R'2, which are identical or different, represent a hydroxy, (C1-C4) alkoxy or alkyl group, R'3 represents a hydroxyl group or (C1 -C4) alkoxy, and Z1 represents an oxygen or sulfur atom; cyclic sterically hindered such as the adamantyl group; - optionally substituted alkoxy (C1-C4) alkyl such as methoxymethyl (MOM), ethoxyethyl (EOM) and isobutoxymethyl.

Preferably, when Y denotes a protective group of thiol function, it is chosen from the following groups: - (C1-C4) alkylcarbonyl such as methylcarbonyl or ethylcarbonyl; arylcarbonyl, such as phenylcarbonyl; - (C1-C4) alkoxycarbonyl; aryloxycarbonyl; aryl (C1-C4) alkoxycarbonyl; - (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl such as dimethylaminocarbonyl; - (C1-C4) (alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl; optionally substituted aryl such as phenyl; 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl such as imidazolyl or cationic 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl, such as pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, imidazolium; these groups being optionally substituted by one or more, identical or different, (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl; - 8 to 11-membered cationic bicyclic heteroaryl such as benzoimidazolium or benzoxazolium; these groups being optionally substituted by one or more, identical or different, (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl; - Cationic heterocycle of the following formula: - isothiouronium -C (NH 2) = N + H 2; Year-; - isothiourea -C (NH 2) = NH; - SO3-, M + with M + representing an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium.

Preferably, in the compounds of formula (1), q and r are such that 'q + r' is between 6 and 20, in particular between 8 and 18.

Preferably, in the compounds of formula (1), r is an integer of between 6 and 12. Preferably, in the compounds of formula (1), at least two of the radicals R1 to R4 represent H. An-35 Preferably in the compounds of formula (1), the radicals R1 to R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom; an OH, COORa or CONHRc radical; or a linear C 1 -C 3 or branched C 3 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with a COOH group; with Ra denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C3 alkyl radical, especially methyl; and Rc denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 3 or branched C 3 alkyl radical, especially methyl. Preferentially, the radicals R1 to R4 are chosen from H, CONHCH3, COOH, COOCH3, methyl, OH or CH2CH2OOOH.

Preferably, in the compounds of formula (1), X represents O or NH.

Preferably, in the compounds of formula (1), when p = 1, then Y = H or a thiol protecting group of formula: -NI = NH NH2 It is also possible to use the solvates, in particular the hydrates, or salts, compounds of formula (1). The compounds of formula (1) may be in any isomeric form (cis or trans, Z or E). The following compounds of formula (1), in their Z or E forms, and their salts or solvates may especially be mentioned: ## STR2 ## ~ / SH H \ _ 0 SH ~ s H \ O / ~ / S \ / ONOHONHHN / \ H \ O SH H 0 1 SH H 2968300 s O \ N ~ / SHO \ N ~ / SHOHOH \ 0 H \ N / ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ON, NH H NH BrH 2 O NS ~ NH H NH 2 B r H / CH 2) s ~ / NSH 0 ~ O NH / CH 2) NH O ~ NH 0/2) $ ~ / NSH H 0 O ~ NH H CH 2) a ~ / NSH OO ~ NH H CH2) $ ~ / NSH OO ~ NH / H NSH OO ~ NH 1 H H2) s ~ / NSH OO ~ NH 1 H H2) s ~ / NSH OO ~ NH 1 H H2) s ~ / NSH OO ~ NH H H2) s ~ / NSH OO ~ NH H H2) s / NSH OO ~ NH 1 H H2) s / N ~ / ~ SHOO ~ NH 1 H H2) s ~ / NSH OO ~ NH 1 ## STR2 ## ## STR5 ## ## STR5 ## ## STR2 ## / H2) 8 N ~ \ S 1 1 HN ~ OO ~ \ ~ (CHz) \ SH 1 1 HN ~ OO / H H2 ) 8 NS SN ~ (CH2) H / O ~ NH \ / \ ./ \ ./ \ (c H 1 HN ~ O / H 2) S ~ SOOO NH H (CH2) 1 Hz ~ s ~~ N ~~ ~ SH HO 0 OH Hz ~ s ~~ N ~~ SH HO 0 OH O Hz ~ s ~~ N ~~~ SH OH H 0 O Hz ~ s ~~ N ~~ SH HO ~ OH HZ ~ s ~ / HN ~~~ SH 0 0 ~ OH HZ ~ s ~ / HN ~~~ SH 0 0 ~ OH H H2 ~ s ~~ N ~~ SH 0 0 ~ OH H2) 8 N ~~ \ SH 0 0 ~ OH HNSOO OH

H N S O O OH

HOO OH HOO OH H NS H 2N SHNSH 2N SHS 0 0 ~ OH HS 0 0 ~ OH H H2NSH OO ^ OH H2) a / NSH OO ~ Oi H H2) NSH OO ~ Oi H2NSH HOO ~ OH H2NSH OO ~ O H2NSH HOO ~ O ~ H2NSH H 0 0 ~ OHNSHNSH zNS

OO ~ OIH zN SHH zN S 0 0 ~ 0 \ H H2) s ~ / NS OO ~ O ~ \ H H2) sue / NSOO ~ O ~ \ H H2) NS OO ~ O \ H H2) NS OO ~ OO \ SH OO \ SH O OSH 0 \ 0SH O OH O / SH 0 0 0SH i 0 ~ o ~~ s 0 0 oo ~ m ~ is s 0 0 o ~~ s 0 0 o ~~ s 0 0 0 OOO \ O ~ / SO \ O ~ / g OO, ---- ^. ,, / SOO ~ / SOHN ~ \ SH OHN ~ \ SH ON ~ \ SH \ N ~ \ SH HOHOHN ~ \ SH \ O \ N \ SH HO \ N ~ \ SH HO \ N ~ SH H 0 SHOSHO / N ~ \ SHN ~ \ SHOO \ NH \ SO \ HN ~ \ SO / NH HOO \ HN ~ \ SO \ HN ~ \ SOUND ~ \ SHOHN ~ \ S 0 N ~ \ SH 0 N ~ \ SH 0 HN ~ \ S 0 N ~ \ SHO \ SH HO OH OH SH \ OH OH OH 0 OH SH NH / O 0 SHH OH 0 ONH / SH o OH \ 0 / ASH 0 HO OH OH OH O OH O OH O OH OH OH O OH O OH OH H S O H OH OH 0 0 S / N / 0 0 N ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR2 ## OH 0 HCS OH 0 H OH N ~ \ SH OH 0 0 H \ S OH H ~ \ S OH ON ~~ \ SH OH ON ~ / \ SH OH OH ~ S OH O OH ON ~ \ SH OH ON ~~ SH OH ON ~~ SH OH ON ~ SH OH O \ H ~~ S O OH O ~ COOH \ N \ SH H COOH 0 ## STR5 ## COOH S COOH OO COOH COOH O COOH OO COOH ON ~ SH OHN ~ \ SH H \ 0 ~ ON \ SH H ~ N \ SH H 0 ~ 0 N \ SH H ~ N \ SH H 0 0 \ N ~ \ The compounds of formula (1) can be prepared by those skilled in the art on the basis of their general knowledge.

Preparation of Unsaturated Acids By way of indication, the unsaturated acids may be prepared according to the following scheme: ## STR1 ## Another approach can be carried out using the dimeric forms of each of the alkenes in acid or ester form according to the following scheme: + RSO Metathesis - ORS ## EQU1 ## Metathesis metathesis ## STR1 ## For the metathesis reaction between the two alkenes, a large excess of the shortest alkene (2) is used. at 10 equivalents) in the presence of a GRUBBS catalyst (1st or 2nd generation), or HOVEYDA such as bis (tricyclohexyl phosphine) benzylidene ruthenium (iv) dichloride or (1,3-bis- (2,4,6-dichloride)). trimethylphenyl) -2-imidazolidinylidene) dichloro (phenylmethylene) (tricyclohexylphosphine) ruthe- RSO nium or tricyclohexylphosphine [1,3-bis- (2,4,6-tri-methylphenyl) 4,5-dihydroimidazol-2-ylidene] [( phenylthio) methylene) ruthenium (II) dichloride or tricyclohexylphosphine [1,3-bis- (2,4,6-tri-meth) Ylphenyl) imidazol-2-ylidene] [3-phenyl-1H-indene-1-ylidene] ruthenium (II) dichloride.

It is also possible to use a metathesis catalyst, such as those sold by OMEGA SYSTEM of Rennes and in particular the following compounds: ## STR1 ## The reaction can be carried out in a solvent such as dichloromethane or ethyl acetate or tetrahydrofuran, especially at a temperature between 0 and 60 ° C under an inert atmosphere, for 1 to 48 hours, or even at reflux of the solvent used. DMSO can then be added and the crude reaction product purified on a silica column to obtain the expected product (ester).

The ester obtained may then be saponified while hot, for example in an ethanol / base mixture to conduct, after hydrolysis in an acid medium, the desired acid; the base used may be sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, for example. Preparation of compounds (1) when X = NRd The compounds of formula (1) in which p = 1 and X denotes NH can be obtained by reaction, in a solvent, of an aminoalkylthiol derivative of formula (II) with a compound of formula (III): ## STR1 ## with Z representing a halogen atom, in particular chlorine; a radical derived from nitrogen, in particular imidazole, or an oxygen-derived radical such as a mixed anhydride. The compounds of formula (1) in which p = 1 and X denotes NRd with Rd different from hydrogen, can be similarly obtained by reacting the compound (II ') with a compound (III): R1 R3 RdNH The compounds of formula (1) in which X = NH or NRd and p = 2 (hence Y = covalent ligand) can be obtained by oxidation of the compound of formula (1) corre- wherein p = 1 and Y = H, or by reaction of a compound of general formula (III) with an aminoalkyldisulfide of formula (IV): R3 R1 - ~ ~ NH2 (IV) n - R4 R2 R1 R3 H2N R2 R4 n SAS For this reaction, the solvent may be chosen from dichloromethane, acetonitrile, toluene, dioxane, tetrahydrofuran, N-methyl tetrahydrofuran, N, N-dimethylformamide or a mixture of these solvents. reaction is preferably carried out at a temperature of between -10 ° C and 60 ° C, preferably between -10 and 10 ° C, in the presence in particular of a base such as a tertiary amine such as triethylamine or N, N-diisopropylethylamine.

The disulfide thiol oxidation can be carried out by any oxidant conventionally used, such as an oxygenated water solution, oxygen of the air, an iodine solution, a solution containing an iron (III) salt. or an organic oxidant such as, for example, 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DBDMH). The general scheme of synthesis is as follows: ## STR1 ## R4 R4 reduction R3 R1 R3 R1 R1 R3 R1 + R3 HZN ~ SS n R2 R4 (1v) Preparation compounds (1) when X = 0 The compounds of formula (1) with X = 0 can be obtained by reaction, in a solvent, of a derivative of formula (V) with a compound of formula (III): R4 (III) R4 (V) R2 with Z representing a halogen atom, in particular chlorine, a radical derived from nitrogen, the nitrogen atom being bonded to the carbonyl, in particular imidazole, or a radical derived from In this case, p is always equal to 2. The same solvents as those described above can be used for the synthesis of the compounds with X = NRd. The synthesis process for the thioester-type derivatives is as follows: + HS / NH2, HCl SNH2 , HCI We can use the same solvents as those described above for the synthesis of compounds with X = NRd.

The compounds of formula (1) find a very particular application in the field of cosmetics, in particular capillary. They may be present in the composition in solubilized form, for example in water or an organic solvent, in particular ethanol, butyl acetate or isopropyl myristate, or else in a silicone solvent such as volatile silicone oils. , especially the D5. They may also be present in the form of an aqueous or organic or silicone dispersion, in particular in one of these solvents.

They may be used in cosmetic compositions in a proportion of 0.001 to 100% by weight of dry matter, especially 0.01 to 50% by weight, or even 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition.

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention also comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with keratin materials such as the skin of the face or body, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and nails.

The composition may thus comprise a hydrophilic medium comprising water and / or at least one hydrophilic organic solvent such as alcohols, and especially linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols, such as ethanol, tert-butanol, naphthalenol, and the like. butanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, and polyols such as glycerol, diglycerol, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, and polyethylene glycols, or even glycol ethers in particular C2 and hydrophilic C2-C4 aldehydes. The composition may also comprise a fatty phase, especially consisting of fatty substances which are liquid at room temperature (generally 25 ° C.) and / or of fatty substances that are solid at room temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and their mixtures. mixtures. These fatty substances may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. This fatty phase may, in addition, contain lipophilic organic solvents.

As liquid fatty substances at room temperature, often called oils, which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or sunflower, corn, soybean, grapeseed, sesame, apricot, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba oil, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as liquid paraffins and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, for example purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which may or may not be volatile, linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature (25 ° C.), such as cyclomethicones or dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones or phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyls; siloxanes, diphenylmethyldimethyl-trisiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more organic solvents which are physiologically acceptable. Mention may in particular be made, in addition to the hydrophilic organic solvents mentioned above, ketones that are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.), such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.), such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; short-chain esters (having 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, acetate of isopentyl; ethers which are liquid at 25 ° C., such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alkanes liquid at 25 ° C such as decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane, cyclohexane; aromatic cyclic compounds which are liquid at 25 ° C .; aldehydes liquid at 25 ° C such as benzaldehyde, acetaldehyde and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one ingredient commonly used in cosmetics, such as vitamins, perfumes, pearlescent agents, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents and alkalizing agents. or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, emulsifiers, antioxidants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, propellants, ceramides, polymers, especially film-forming polymers; fillers, nacres, dyestuffs and in particular pigments and dyes; as well as their mixtures. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise one or more reducing agents, which may be chosen from thiols, for example cysteine, homocysteine, thiolactic acid, the salts of these thiols; phosphines, bisulfite, sulphites, thioglycolic acid and its esters, in particular glycerol monothioglycolate and thioglycerol. This reducing agent may also be chosen from borohydrides and their derivatives, for example borohydride salts, cyanoborohydride, triacetoxyborohydride, trimethoxyborohydride: sodium, lithium, potassium, calcium, quaternary ammonium salts (tetramethylammonium, tetraethylammonium, tetrabutylammonium benzyltriethylammonium); catechol borane; and their mixtures.

Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, of the application envisaged for the composition. Thus, the composition according to the invention can be in the form of a suspension, in particular a dispersion of oil in water by means of vesicles; an oily solution optionally thickened or gelled; an oil-water-in-oil or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an oily or emulsified gel; a dispersion of vesicles, in particular lipids; a biphase or multiphase lotion; a spray; This composition may have the appearance of a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and especially stick or cup, or compacted solid.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may be in the form of a care product and / or make-up of the skin of the body or of the face, lips and hair, a sun-product or self-tanning product, a hair product. In particular, it finds a particularly advantageous application in the hair field, in particular for the protection and / or the repair of keratinous fibers, in particular damaged keratin fibers (hair).

The hair compositions are preferably shampoos, gels, styling lotions, blow-drying lotions, fixing or styling compositions such as lacquers or spray, compositions for the care or repair of the hair.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention can be used for the washing, care, treatment, protection and / or repair of keratin materials such as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows. , the nails, the lips, the scalp and more particularly the hair.

The compositions according to the invention can be detergent compositions such as shampoos, shower gels and bubble baths. In this embodiment of the invention, the compositions comprise at least one washing base, generally aqueous, which may comprise from 5 to 350% of surfactant.

They can also be in the form of a conditioner to be rinsed or not, compositions for permanent, straightening, coloring or bleaching, or in the form of compositions to be rinsed, to be applied before or after a coloring, a discoloration, a permanent or a straightening or between the two stages of a perm or straightening.

When the composition is in the form of an optionally rinsing conditioner, it advantageously contains at least one cationic surfactant, for example in a concentration generally of between 0.1 and 100/0 by weight and preferably of 0, 5 to 50/0 by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The compositions according to the invention may also be in the form of aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic lotions for the care of the skin and / or the hair.

The subject of the invention is also a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the eyelashes, the nails or the hair, in particular a method of maintaining the hairstyle, of a cosmetic treatment, of care, washing, protection, repair, keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or face, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, characterized in that it consists in applying to said keratin materials a composition cosmetic as defined above, then possibly carry out a rinsing with water.

Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying, simultaneously or separately, to said keratinous materials, at least one compound of formula (1), preferably one compound of formula (1) in which p = 2, and at least one reducing agent, said compound and / or said reducing agent being present in a cosmetically acceptable medium, optionally to rub the said keratin materials, especially if they are keratinous fibers for a time of about 2 to 30 minutes, and / or optionally rinsing with a preferably aqueous solution comprising an oxidizing agent, preferably mild, such as hydrogen peroxide at a concentration of 2-100 / 0.

Another subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying, simultaneously or separately, to said keratinous materials at least one compound of formula (1) and at least one base, said compound and / or said base being present in a cosmetically acceptable medium, optionally rubbing said keratin materials, especially if it is keratin fibers, for a time of about 2 to 30 minutes, and / or possibly to rinse.

In all these methods, said keratin materials are preferably keratinous fibers, in particular hair. In particular, these are methods of protecting and / or repairing the hair, especially damaged hair.

As reducing agents that may be employed, mention may be made of sulphites and bisulphites, in particular alkali, alkaline earth or ammonium sulphites; as well as thiols.

Among these, mention may be made of cysteine and its derivatives (in particular N-acetylcysteine), cysteamine and its derivatives (in particular its acyl derivatives in Cl-C4 such as N-acetylcysteamine or N-propionylcysteamine). thiolactic acid and its esters (in particular glycerol monothiolactate), thioglycolic acid and its esters (in particular glycerol monothioglycolate or glycol), and thioglycerol. Mention may also be made of the following reducing agents: N-mercapto-alkylamides of sugars such as N- (mercapto-2-ethyl) gluconamide, R-mercaptopropionic acid and its derivatives, thiomalic acid, panthetene, N - (mercaptoalkyl) α-hydroxyalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-354,835, the N-mono- or N, N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides such as those described in EP-A-368,763, aminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in EP-A-432 000, the alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides such as those described in EPA-514 282, the mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglycolate (2/3) and 2-hydroxyethyl-1-methyl ethyl thioglycolate (67). / 33) as described in FR-A-2 679 448.

As a base that can be used, mention may be made of soda, potassium hydroxide, ammonia or ethanolamine.

Another subject of the invention is a kit in two or more parts, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound of formula (1). The kit may in particular comprise a first part comprising the compound of formula (1) and a second part comprising a base or a reducing agent. These parts may be mixed at the time of use or to be applied successively to the keratinous substrate to be treated, in particular the hair. These successive application steps may or may not be interrupted by a manual drying step, with a towel for example, or by means of a tool such as a hair dryer for example. It is possible to rinse treated keratin materials. It is also possible to use, in conjunction with the compounds according to the invention, a heating tool for shaping the hair, such as a curling iron, a vaguest iron, a crimping iron, a straightening iron, heating curlers. .

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of the mixture of ethyl (10E) -11-methyltridec-10-enoate and ethyl (10Z) -11-methyltridec-10-enoate Synthesis scheme: 0 0 7 -. ~ O + 15 7 In a reactor, 0.50 g of ethyl undecylenate (2.35 mmol), 0.83 g of 2-methyl-1-butene (11.80 mmol, 5eq) and 0.72 g of catalyst were introduced. of GRUBBS (2nd generation, 6 mol%). Dichloromethane was added to have a concentration of 0.4 M reagents. The reaction mixture was maintained

With stirring for 2 days at 40 ° C and 18 hours at 25 ° C. 2 drops of dimethylsulfoxide were then added and then the crude medium was purified on a silica column to obtain 0.47 g of the expected product, in the form of a brown oil, with a yield of 700/0. The 1H and 13C NMR spectra are in accordance with the expected product.

EXAMPLE 2 Preparation of the mixture of ethyl (10E) -12-methyltetradec-10-enoate and ethyl (10Z) -12-methyltetradec-10-enoate In a reactor, 0.50 g of ethyl undecylenate (2.35 mmol), 1 g of 3-methyl-1-pentene (11.80 mmol, 5 eq) and 0.72 g of the GRUBBS catalyst (2nd generation) were introduced. , 6 mol%). Dichloromethane was added to have a concentration of 0.4 M reagents. The reaction mixture was stirred for 2 days at room temperature. Then 2 drops of dimethylsulfoxide were added and the crude medium was purified on a silica column to obtain 0.41 g of the expected product, in the form of a beige oil, with a yield of 65%. The 1H and 13C NMR spectra are in accordance with the expected product.

Example 3 Preparation of the mixture of ethyl (13E) -18-methylicos-13-enoate and ethyl (13Z) -18-methylicos-13-enoate o In a reactor, 0.09 g of ethyl tretadecylenate was introduced. (0.35 mmol), 0.088 g of 6-methyloct-1-ene (0.7 mmol, 2eq) and 2.9 g of the M71SIPr catalyst (sold by OMEGA Cat System, 1 mol%). Ethyl acetate was added to give a concentration of 0.25 M reagents. The reaction mixture was stirred for 1 hour at 60 ° C. 2 drops of dimethylsulfoxide were then added and the crude medium was purified on a silica column to obtain 0.075 g of the expected product, in the form of a beige oil, with a yield of 60%. The 1H and 13C NMR spectra are in accordance with the expected product.

EXAMPLE 4 Preparation of the mixture (10E) -11-methyltridec-10-enoic acid and (10Z) -11-methyltridec-10-enoic acid OH In a reactor, 0.4 g of the compound of the Example 1 (1.6 mmol), 0.2 g of sodium hydroxide pellets (5 mmol), 5 ml of water and 5 ml of methanol. The reaction medium was brought to reflux for 3 hours, then evaporated under reduced pressure and then, after cooling, acidified with 6N hydrochloric acid to obtain, after extraction with ethyl acetate, 0.32 g of the expected product in the form of a translucent oil with a yield of 89%.

The 1H and 13C NMR spectra are in accordance with the expected product.

EXAMPLE 5 Preparation of (10E) -11-methyl-N- (2-sulfanylethyl) tridec-10-enamide and (10Z) -11-methyl-N- (2-sulfanylethyl) tridec-10-enamide In a reactor, 0.3 g of the acid prepared in Example 4 (1.32 mmol) and 0.15 g of triethylamine (1.5 mmol) were dissolved in 5 ml of THF and then cooled the mixture to 10 ° C with an ice bath. 0.18 g of isobutyl chloroformate (1.32 mmol, 1 eq) dissolved in 5 ml of THF was added dropwise. The formation of a white precipitate was observed. The reaction was then allowed to return to the reaction medium at room temperature and then the precipitate formed was filtered off. The filtrate was then added, dropwise, to a solution of 0.105 g of cysteamine (1.32 mmol, 1 eq) in 4 ml of absolute ethanol kept under argon. The reaction was allowed to stir at room temperature for 30 minutes, then evaporated under reduced pressure to obtain 0.32 g of the expected product in a yield of 900/0. The 1H and 13C NMR spectra are in accordance with the expected product.

Example 6 Preparation of the mixture (10E, 10'E) -N, N'4disulfanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (11-methyltridec-10-enamide) and (10Z, 10'Z) -N, N'- (disulfanediyldiethane-2,1-diyl) bis (11-methyltridec-10-enamide) NH 2 CH 2 Cl 2 under argon TA NH 0.32 g of compound prepared in Example 5 was dissolved in a reactor. (1.12 mmol) in 3 ml of dichloromethane, then 0.1 g of 1,3-dibromo-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (DBDMH) (0.35 mmol) was added. An immediate orange-yellow coloring of the reaction medium was observed which disappeared very rapidly. The reaction medium was stirred for 5 hours and then poured into 15 ml of acetone. The reaction medium was then filtered, the gum obtained taken up again with 15 ml of acetone and the mixture was again filtered. The precipitation operation in acetone was repeated 4 times to obtain 0.2 g of white powder corresponding to the expected product, with a yield of 600/0.

EXAMPLE 7 The following hair cosmetic composition (% by weight) is prepared: - Chicory root inulin (Oradti Inutec N25) 150/0 MA - Lemon pectin (Herbstreith and Fox CU 201) 20/0 MA - Compound of Example 5 1% - Water qs 100% (MA: active ingredient) 5 g of the composition are applied for 5 minutes, on a strand of bleached hair (SA20) of 2.5 g previously wetted. The wick is then rinsed and combed. It is observed that the wet wick has a smooth feel, it is flexible and easy to disentangle. The wick is dried under a helmet for 15 minutes. To the touch, the dry wick is soft and smooth to the ends. She disentangles well. - Cetearyl alcohol 70/0 MA - Cetyl esters 1.50 / 0 MA - Compound of Example 5 30 / o - Water qs 100% - Chicory root inulin (Inutec N25 of Orafti) 150/0 MA - Pectin lemon (CU 201 from Herbstreith and Fox) 20/0 MA - Compound of Example 6 0.50 / 0 - Water qs 100% Composition 8 50 / o - thioglycolic acid - sodium hydroxide qs pH = 8.5 - water qs 100% At the time of use, the compositions A (4.5 g) and B (0.5 g) are mixed, and then the formulation thus prepared is applied to a lock of hair discolored (SA20) of 2.5 g previously wet. The formulation is left on the fiber for 5 minutes and then the wick is then rinsed and combed. A 50/0 hydrogen peroxide solution is then applied for 5 minutes, then rinsed with water and the wick is combed. It is observed that the wet wick has a smooth feel, it is flexible and easy to disentangle. The wick is dried under a helmet for 15 minutes. To the touch, the dry wick is soft and smooth to the ends. She disentangles well.

EXAMPLE 10 The following hair cosmetic composition (% by weight) is prepared: Composition A - Cetearyl alcohol 70/0 MA - Cetyl esters 1.50 / 0 MA 40 - Compound of Example 6 1.5% - Water qs 100 Composition 8 - thioglycolic acid 150/0 Example 8 The following hair cosmetic composition (% by weight) is prepared:

Example 9 The following hair cosmetic composition (% by weight) is prepared: Composition A 20 - sodium hydroxide q.s. pH = 8.5 - water qs 100% At the time of use, the compositions A (4.5 g) and B (0.5 g) are mixed, and then the formulation thus prepared is applied to a lock of discolored hair. (SA20) of 2.5 g previously wet. The formulation is left on the fiber for 5 minutes and then the wick is then rinsed and combed. It is observed that the wet wick has a smooth feel, it is flexible and easy to disentangle.

The wick is dried under a helmet for 15 minutes. To the touch, the dry wick is soft and smooth to the ends. She disentangles well.

EXAMPLE 11 The following cosmetic composition (% by weight) is prepared: Composition A - Compound of Example 6 0.750 / 0 - cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50/50) (Lanette O or flakes of Cognis) 30 / o - acid citric qs pH 2.5 - water qs 1000/0 Composition 8 - thioglycolic acid 9,20 / 0 - sodium hydroxide q.s. pH = 8.5 - water qs 100% At the time of use, the compositions A (4.5 g) and B (0.5 g) are mixed, and then the formulation thus prepared is applied to a lock of discolored hair. (SA20) of 2.5 g previously wet. The formulation is left on the fiber for 5 minutes and then the wick is then rinsed and combed.

It is observed that the wet wick has a smooth feel, it is flexible and easy to disentangle. The wick is dried under a helmet for 15 minutes. To the touch, the dry wick is soft and smooth to the ends. She disentangles well. EXAMPLE 12 The following cosmetic composition is prepared (% by weight): 1.5% Composition A - Compound of Example 6 - cetylstearyl alcohol (C16 / C18 50/50) 3% (Lanette O or flakes of Cognis) - water qsp 100% Composition 8 9.2% - thioglycolic acid 40 - sodium hydroxide qs pH = 8.5 - water qs 100% At the time of use, the compositions A (4.5 g) and B (0.5 g) are mixed, and then the formulation thus prepared is applied to a lock of discolored hair. (SA20) of 2.5 g previously wet. The formulation is left on the fiber for 5 minutes and then the wick is then rinsed and combed. It is observed that the wet wick has a smooth feel, it is flexible and easy to disentangle.

The wick is dried under a helmet for 15 minutes. To the touch, the dry wick is soft and smooth to the ends. She disentangles well.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one compound of formula (1), or a salt or solvate: ## STR1 ## In which: p is 1 or 2; CH2) R-CH2 CXCC- (CH2) nS; n is 0 or 1; q is an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive; r is an integer between 0 and 16 inclusive; - R1, R2, R3, R4 denote, independently of one another, a radical selected from (i) a hydrogen atom, (ii) an OH, COORa or CONRbRc radical, (iii) an alkyl radical, linear C1-C3 or branched C3, optionally substituted with a group COORa; with Ra designating a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 6 or branched C 3 -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with a -NH 2 or (di) C 1 -C 6 -alkylamino radical or -ORd; Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 6 or branched C 3 -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by a radical -NH 2 or (di) alkyl-C 1 -C 6 -amino, or OR d; Rd denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 6 or C 3 -C 6 alkyl radical; X represents O or NRd; it being understood that: when p = 1, then Y represents a hydrogen atom or a protective group of thiol function; when p = 2, then Y represents a covalent bond. 2. Composition according to claim 1, wherein the compounds of formula (1) are such that: q and r are such that 'q + r' is between 6 and 20, in particular between 8 and 18. 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds of formula (1) are such that r is an integer between 6 and 12. Y P 40 4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds of formula (1) are such that at least two of the radicals R1 to R4 represent H. 5. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds of formula (1) are such that the radicals R1 to R4 denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom; an OH, COORa or CONHRc radical; or a linear C 1 -C 3 or branched C 3 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with a COOH group; with Ra denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C3 alkyl radical, especially methyl; and Rc denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 3 or branched C 3 alkyl radical, in particular methyl; preferentially, the radicals R1 to R4 are chosen from H, CONHCH3, COOH, COOCH3, methyl, OH or CH2CH20OOH. 6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds of formula (1) are such that X represents O or NH. 7. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds of formula (1) are such that when Y denotes a protecting group of thiol function, it is chosen from the following groups: - (C1-C4) alkylcarbonyl as methylcarbonyl or ethylcarbonyl; arylcarbonyl, such as phenylcarbonyl; - (C1-C4) alkoxycarbonyl; aryloxycarbonyl; aryl (C1-C4) alkoxycarbonyl; - (di) (C1-C4) (alkyl) aminocarbonyl such as dimethylaminocarbonyl; - (C1-C4) (alkyl) arylaminocarbonyl; optionally substituted aryl such as phenyl; 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl such as imidazolyl or cationic 5- or 6-membered monocyclic heteroaryl, such as pyrylium, pyridinium, pyrimidinium, pyrazinium, pyridazinium, triazinium, imidazolium; these groups being optionally substituted by one or more, identical or different, (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl; - 8 to 11-membered cationic bicyclic heteroaryl such as benzoimidazolium or benzoxazolium; these groups being optionally substituted by one or more, identical or different, (C1-C4) alkyl groups such as methyl; cationic heterocycle of the following formula: isothiouronium -C (NH 2) = N + H 2; Year-; - isothiourea -C (NH 2) = NH; - SO3-, M + with M + representing an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compounds of formula (1) are such that p = 1 and Y = H or a thiol protecting group of formula: -NI = NH NH2 9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the compounds of formula (1) are chosen from the following compounds, in their Z or E forms, and their salts or solvates: ## STR2 ## ## EQU1 ## ~ / SHON ~ / SHO NS ~ NH H NH2 BrH O / S ~ NH H NH2 Br "O \ NS ~ NH H NH2 BrH OH NH2 Br" \ OOS ~ NH / H NH2 BrH H NS ~ NH NH2 BrH O NS ~ NH H NH BrH 2 O NS ~ NH H NH 2 B r H / CH 2) s ~ / NSH 0 ~ O NH / CH 2) NH O ~ NH 0/2) $ ~ / N ~~ SH H 0 O ~ NH H CH 2 ## STR5 ## H2) s ~ / NSH OO ~ NH H H2) s ~ / NSH OO ~ NH H H2) s / NSH OO ~ NH 1 H H2) s / N \ / ~ SHOO ~ NH 1 H H2) s ~ / NSH OO ## STR2 ## OOHH ~ (OH2) / OO ^ NH1 ~ HS 1 OO HZ) 8 ~ N NH HN H ~ (CH2) \ OS 1 H2) 8 H 1 ON HN ~ OH (CHZ) / S-SOO ^ NH 1 H 2) 8 H 1 NS HN ~ OO SH ~ (CH 2) \ OO 1 NH 1 1 HN ~ OO / H H 2) 8 Ns sN ~ (CH 2) O ~ NH H / H 1 HN ~ OO H 2) 8_ / N III ((CH2) OOH NH 1 H H2 ~ s ~ / N ~~~ SH 0 0 ~ OH Hz ~ s ~~ N ~~ SH HO 0 OH O Hz ~ s ~~ N ~~~ SH OH H 0 O Hz ~ s ~~ N ~~ SH HO ~ OH HZ ~ s ~ / HN ~~~ SH 0 0 ~ OH HZ ~ s ~ / HN ~~~ SH 0 0 ~ OH H H2 ~ s ~~ N ~~ SH 0 0 ~ OH H H2) 8 N ~~ \ SH 0 0 ~ OHH NSOO OH HNSOO OH HOO OH HOOHH NS H 2N SHNSH 2N SH S 0 0 ~ OH HS 0 0 ~ OH H H2NSH OO ^ OH H2) a / NSH OO ~ Oi H H2) NSH OO ~ Oi H2NSH HOO ~ OH H2NSH OO ~ O H2NSH HOO ~ O ~ H2NSH H 0 0 ~ OH NSHNSH zNS OO ~ OIH zN SHH zN S 0 0 ~ 0 \ H2 H2 ) s ~ / NS OO ~ O ~ \ H H2) sue / NSOO ~ O ~ \ H H2) NS OO ~ O \ H H2) NS OO ~ OO \ SH OO \ SH O OSH 0 \ 0SH O OH O / SH 0 0 0SH i 0 ~ o ~~ s 0 0 oo ~ m ~ is 0 oo ~~ sooo ~~ sooo OOO \ O ~ / SO \ O ~ / g OO, ---- ^. ,, / SOO ~ / SOHN ~ \ SH OHN ~ \ SH ON ~ \ SH \ N ~ \ SH HOHOHN ~ \ SH \ OHN ~ \ SH O \ N ~ \ SH HO \ N ~ SH H 0 SHOHN ~ \ SHSO / N ~ \ SHOOOHN ~ \ S \ NH \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ \ ## STR1 ## ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## ## STR2 ## O OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH OH O OH O OH O OH OH O OH O OH OH OH ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ## STR5 ## in which ## STR1 ## in which ## STR2 ## in which ## STR2 ## in which ## STR2 ## COOH COOH COOH OO COOH COOH COOH COOH COOH OO COOH ON ~ SH OHN ~ \ SH H \ 0 ~ ON \ SH H ~ N \ SH H 0 ~ 0 N \ SH H ~ N \ SH H 0 0 \ N ~ \ SH HN / / SH H \ o N ~ \ S \ HON ~~ S / HON ~ \ SHO HO O 0 OOOO 0 10. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the compound of formula (1), alone or in mixture, is present in a proportion of 0.001 to 100/0 by weight of dry matter, in particular from 0.01 to 50 / 0 by weight, or even 0.1 to 10/0 by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises at least one ingredient selected from water; hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and especially linear or branched C1-C6 monoalcohols; polyols; glycol ethers; hydrophilic C2-C4 aldehydes; waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin; lipophilic organic solvents; hydrocarbon oils of animal origin; vegetable hydrocarbon oils; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin; esters and synthetic ethers; polyol esters; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils; ketones liquid at 25 ° C, propylene glycol ethers liquid at 25 ° C; short-chain esters having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total; ethers liquid at 25 ° C; alkanes liquid at 25 ° C; aromatic cyclic compounds which are liquid at 25 ° C .; liquid aldehydes at 25 ° C; vitamins, perfumes, pearlescent agents, thickeners, gelling agents, trace elements, softeners, sequestering agents, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, sunscreens, surfactants, emulsifiers, antioxidants, anti-hair loss agents, anti-cellulitis agents, propellants, ceramides, polymers, especially film-forming polymers; fillers, nacres, dyestuffs; reducing agents. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, being in the form of a care product and / or make-up of the skin of the body or face, lips and hair, a sunscreen or self-tanning product, a hair product; preferably a hair composition, in particular for the protection and / or the repair of keratinous fibers, in particular keratin fibers (hair) damaged. 13. Compound of formula (1), or a salt or solvate: ## STR1 ## wherein R 1 is CH 2 CH 3 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 R4 (1) wherein: - p is 1 or 2; n is 0 or 1; q is an integer between 0 and 10 inclusive; r is an integer between 0 and 16 inclusive; - R1, R2, R3, R4 denote, independently of one another, a radical selected from (i) a hydrogen atom, (ii) an OH, COORa or CONRbRc radical, (iii) an alkyl radical, linear C1-C3 or branched C3, optionally substituted with a group COORa; with Ra denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 6 or branched C 3 -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted with a radical -NH 2 or (di) alkyl-C 1 -C 6 -amino or -ORd; Rb and Rc, which may be identical or different, denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C 1 -C 6 or branched C 3 -C 6 alkyl radical, optionally substituted by a radical -NH 2 or (di) alkyl-C 1 -C 6 -amino, or OR d; Rd denoting a hydrogen atom or a linear C1-C6 or branched C3-C6 alkyl radical; X represents O or NRd; it being understood that: - when p = 1, then Y represents a hydrogen atom or a protective group of thiol function; when p = 2, then Y represents a covalent bond. 14. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, the lips, the eyelashes, the nails or the hair, in particular a method of maintaining the hairstyle, of cosmetic treatment, of care, of washing, of protection, of repair , keratin materials, in particular skin of the body or face, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, characterized in that it consists in applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined in one of the following: Claims 1 to 12. 15. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying, simultaneously or separately, to said keratin materials, at least one compound of formula (1) as defined at one of the Y p claims 1 to 9, and at least one reducing agent, said compound and / or said reducing agent being present in a cosmetically acceptable medium, optionally rubbing said keratin materials, especially if it is keratin fibers, for a period of time. about 2 to 30 minutes, and / or optionally rinsing with a preferably aqueous solution comprising an oxidizing agent, preferably mild. 16. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, characterized in that it consists in applying, simultaneously or separately, to said keratinous materials, at least one compound of formula (1) as defined in one of the claims. 1 to 9, and at least one base, said compound and / or said base being present in a cosmetically acceptable medium, optionally rubbing said keratin materials, especially if it is keratin fibers, for a time of about 2 at 30 minutes, and / or possibly rinsing. 17. Kit in two parts or more, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one compound of formula (1) as defined in one of claims 1 to 9.