FR2936151A1 - METHOD OF REMOVING ODORS IN PERMANENT OR LAUNDRY TREATMENT USING A FOAM COATING. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a method for removing odors during a permanent hair deformation process comprising a step of applying to the hair a foam coating comprising at least one foaming agent having an HLB greater than or equal to 8 and mixtures thereof between the reduction step and the oxidation step.

Description

B08 / 0175FR (GD / JBL) OA08314 Company Anonyme called: L'OREAL Process of eliminating odors in a treatment of permanent or smoothing by means of a coating of foam Invention of: DORKEL Jocelyne PATAUT Françoise Process of elimination of odors in a permanent treatment or smoothing by means of a foam coating

The present invention relates to a method for eliminating odors during a permanent hair deformation process comprising a step of applying to the hair a foam coating between the reduction step and the step of oxidation. The most usual technique for obtaining a permanent deformation of the hair consists, firstly, in opening the disulfide bonds of keratin (cystine) using a composition containing a reducing agent and then preferably rinsed the hair, to reconstitute in a second time said disulfide bonds by applying to hair previously smoothed or tensioned by suitable means such as hair curlers, an oxidizing composition also called fixer so as to give the hair the desired shape. This technique allows indifferently to achieve either the waving of the hair (permanent process), or their curing or straightening (smoothing process). The new shape imposed on the hair by a chemical treatment as above is eminently durable over time and resists in particular the action of washing with water or shampoos, and this as opposed to simple conventional techniques of temporary deformation, such as styling.

These common technologies for transforming the shape of the hair, in particular hair perming or straightening compositions, based on thiolated products, lead to satisfactory shaping performances, but impart an unpleasant odor to the hair. This unpleasant smell is one of the main criticisms formulated when using permanent treatment or smoothing. It is well known that the odor problem arises during the reduction step. During this stage, the odor of the reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and cysteine, is combined with reduced hair, thiolated compounds which evolve, such as hydrogen sulphide (H2S), and ammonia. which is often used as an alkalizing agent. All these smells are very difficult to mask with perfumes, and these smells strongly hinder users of permanent and smoothing treatments. It is known to add an additive to the permanent composition to trap odors and alleviate this odor-related discomfort. Thus, for example, the document EP 0 246 090, in one of these embodiments, describes a reducing composition comprising a cationic polymer and a cyclodextrin to reduce odors that emerge during a permanent operation or smoothing. These proposals are not effective enough to cover the release of odor during the process of permanent hair deformation. Another commonly used approach to containing odor release is the use of a cap on the head after application of the permanent liquid.

Although very effective, these hats have two important disadvantages. First, the contact between the cup and the skin is uncomfortable and often causes redness which is mainly due to the accumulation of reducer between the cup and the skin. In addition, the cap is not waterproof, there is often run-off at the neck which requires treated people to keep the head tilted above a sink. Then, a very strong smell is released in the ambient air at the moment when one releases the cap of the scalp.

Furthermore, it is known from WO2006 / 005561 a hair treatment process that reduces the odors due to sulfide compounds, and which comprises a step of applying a reducing composition and a step of applying a reducing agent. oxocarboxylic acid-based composition, this last step being carried out before, during or after the treatment of the hair by means of a reducing composition. There is therefore a need for a process having a great capacity for reducing odors during a permanent deformation operation of the hair, and which does not have the drawbacks of the prior art. The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the introduction of a step of applying to the hair a foam coating comprising one or more foaming agents, between the reduction step and the oxidation fixing step, allowed to effectively eliminate bad odors during a permanent deformation operation of the hair, without having the drawbacks mentioned above, in particular the discomfort, the risk of sagging and the very strong odor release when the foam coating is eliminated . Thus, the subject of the present invention is a process for permanent deformation of the hair, comprising: a step of application to the hair of a reducing composition, for reducing the disulfide bonds of keratin, and then a step of application on the hair of a foam coating comprising one or more foaming agents, the foaming agent (s) having an HLB greater than or equal to 8, then - a step of removing the reducing agent and the foam coating before the foam does not dry and / or disappears completely, then - an oxidation fixing step, for closing said bonds, by application of an oxidizing composition on the hair or by bringing the hair into contact with the oxygen in the air. The reducing composition used in the process according to the invention preferably comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more reducing agents chosen from reducing agents of formula

H (X ') q (R') in which X 'is P, S or SO 2, q is 0 or 1, r is 1 or 2 and R' is a linear, branched, saturated hydrocarbon (C1-C20) radical unsaturated, optionally interrupted by a heteroatom, and optionally comprising substituents chosen from a hydroxyl group, a halogenated group, an amine group or a carboxy group, a ((C1-C30) alkoxy) carbonyl group, an amido group, a group ( (C1-C30) alkyl) amino carbonyl, a (C1-C30) acyl) amino group, a mono or dialkylamino group, a mono or dihydroxylamino group, or a salt thereof in combination with a base. Even more preferentially, the reducing agent (s) is (are) chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteamine, acetylcysteine, thiomalic acid, pantheatin, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N- (mercaptoalkyl) -co-hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono or N, N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides, aminomercapto alkylamides, N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinamic acid derivatives and N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinimides, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglyconate and (2-hydroxy-1-methyl) ethyl thioglycolate, mercaptoalkylaminoamides, N-mercapto-alkylalcanediamides and formamidine sulfinic acid derivatives, and their salts.

In a preferred variant, the reducing agent (s) are thiols. In a still more preferred embodiment, the reducing agent (s) are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine or their salts.

The reducing agent or agents generally represent from 0.05 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 20%, by weight relative to the total weight of the reducing composition.

The reducing composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents. This or these active agents are generally chosen from volatile or non-volatile silicones, linear or cyclic, whether or not aminated, cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, peptides and their derivatives, protein hydrolysates, fatty substances, and waxes. natural or synthetic, and in particular fatty alcohols, swelling agents and penetration or to enhance the effectiveness of the reducing agent (s), as well as other active compounds such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric surfactants or zwitterionic agents, anti-hair loss agents, anti-dandruff agents, natural or synthetic thickeners, associative or not, suspending agents, chelating agents, opacifying agents, dyes, sunscreens, vitamins or provitamins, mineral oils, vegetable or synthetic, as well as perfumes and preservatives, and mixtures thereof. The pH of the reducing composition used according to the invention is generally between 4 and 11, preferably between 6 and 10, even more preferably between 8 and 10. After the step of applying to the hair a reducing composition, the method according to the invention comprises a step of applying to the hair a foam coating comprising one or more foaming agents.

Preferably, the application on the hair of the foam coating immediately follows the application to the hair of the reducing composition. Preferably, the reducing composition is not rinsed prior to application to the hair of the foam coating.

The foam coating is applied preferably over the entire hair, in the manner of a cup. In a very particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the foam coating is applied from a pressurized composition or a pump bottle.

Foaming agent within the meaning of the present invention means a compound having a HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) greater than or equal to 8 and preferably greater than or equal to 10. The HLB characterizes the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. This concept of HLB is well known to those skilled in the art. It is notably described in The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection (published by ICI Americas, 1984). Preferably, the foaming agent is as introduced at 1.5% in water at pH7, it generates a volume of foam greater than 100 ml and even more preferably greater than 200 ml, better still greater than 500 ml in the following test. using the SITA FOAM TESTER R2000. 270 ml of the foaming agent solution are introduced into a thermostated double-walled jar (inside diameter 20 cm, temperature 33 ° C). The foam is generated by a rotor consisting of a conventional rod and a circular disk on which are hung 4 perforated triangular plates for mechanical introduction of air bubbles into the solution. The rotational speed of the rotor is set at 1100 rpm. The generation of foam is evaluated after 3 minutes. The foam volume measurements produced are performed by a cylindrical movable head provided with fifteen needles, capacitive effect sensors. The foaming agent (s) used according to the invention may be chosen from C10-C22 fatty acid soaps. The C10-C22 fatty acid soaps consist of the salts of one or more C10-C22 fatty acids. According to one embodiment of the invention, the foaming agent (s) are therefore chosen from one or more salts of C10-C22, preferably C12-C22 and even more preferentially C14-C20 fatty acids. The fatty acids can be linear or branched. They can be saturated or unsaturated. When unsaturated they may have in their structure one or more unsaturations, preferably one or two double bonds. The fatty acids most often have a natural origin.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the foaming agent (s) are chosen from mixtures of one or more soaps consisting of one or more C16-C20 fatty acids and of one or more soaps consisting of or more C10-C14 fatty acids, preferably C12-C14 fatty acids. The fatty acids may in particular be chosen from capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, margaric, stearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic, undecylenic, palmitoleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, erucic and isostearic acids, and mixtures thereof. The fatty acids can thus be chosen from Coprah fatty acids. Coprah fatty acids are a mixture of palmitic acid, lauric acid, capric acid and myristic acid. The fatty acids are neutralized to form the salts of fatty acids with one or more alkaline agents, such as, for example, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline carbonate or bicarbonate or ammonium, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate or an alkali metal hydroxide such as potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition leading to the formation of the foam coating comprises a soap content expressed in fatty acids ranging from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 25%, better still from 5 to 15% by weight per relative to the total weight of said composition.

The foaming agent (s) may also be chosen from synthetic foaming surfactants. The foaming synthetic surfactant (s) may be chosen, alone or as mixtures, from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants. The surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants. Synthetic foaming surfactants suitable for the implementation of the present invention are in particular the following: (i) anionic surfactant (s):

By way of example of anionic surfactants which may be used, alone or as mixtures, in the context of the present invention, mention may be made in particular (nonlimiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphoacetates; acyl (C6-Cz4) sarcosinates and acyl (C6-C4) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of acyl lactylates, the acyl radical of which contains 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, (C6-C24) alkyl amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 3 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof. (ii) Nonionic surfactant (s):

Nonionic surfactants are also well-known compounds per se (see, in particular, "Handbook of Surfactants" by M. R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116-178). Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups. ranging from 3 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups that can range from 2 to 10. Mention may also be made of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide copolymers, ethylene oxide and propylene oxide condensates on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 3 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; alkanolamides of fatty acids, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms; oxyethylenated fatty acid esters, having a fatty chain comprising, for example, 8 to 18 carbon atoms, in particular oxyethylenated fatty acid esters of sorbitan having from 3 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, for example polysorbate 20; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylglucosamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. (iii) Amphoteric (s) or zwitterionic surfactant (s):

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, the nature of which does not take place in the context of the present invention of a critical nature, may especially be (non-limiting list) aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a chain. linear or branched having 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group water-solubilising (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of alkyl betaine, in particular (C 8 -C 20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkyl betaines or (C 8 -C 20) alkylamido (C 1 -C 6) alkylamines. sulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxyglycinates and Amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures: R2 -CONHCH2CH2 -N (R3) (R4) (CH2OOO-) in which: R2 denotes a linear or branched C5-C20 alkyl radical derived, for example, from an R2-COOH acid present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl radical, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and R2'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (C) wherein: B represents -CH2CH2OX ', C represents - (CH2) z -Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom Y 'denotes -COOH or the radical -CH2 -CHOH -SO3H R2' denotes a linear or branched, saturated or non-saturated C5-C20 alkyl radical of an R9 -COOH acid present, for example, in the coconut oil or hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, especially C7, C9, C11 or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Disodium Lauroamphodiacetate, Disodium Caprylamphodiacetate, Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Caprylamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryloamphodipropionate, Lauroamphodipropionic Acid, Cocoamphodipropionic Acid. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie. (iv) Cationic surfactants:

Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character. Preferably, the synthetic surfactant or surfactants that can be used in the process according to the invention are chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, quaternary ammonium salts, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters.

In a particularly preferred manner, the composition leading to the formation of the foam coating comprises a content of foaming synthetic surfactants ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15%, better still from 1 to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the foaming agent (s) of the invention are chosen from C10-C22 fatty acid soaps. The foaming agent (s) present in the foam coating used in the process according to the invention are formulated in a cosmetically acceptable medium. The cosmetically acceptable aqueous medium may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable solvents. The cosmetically acceptable solvent may be chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, for example ethanol, isopropanol, t-butanol, n-butanol, polyols, for example propylene glycol, polyol ethers, C 5 -C 10 alkanes, C 3 -C 4 ketones, for example acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, C 1 -C 4 alkyl acetates, such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and the like; butyl acetate, dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane, and mixtures thereof. In addition to the foaming agent (s), the composition generating the foam coating may comprise one or more additives selected from moisturizing agents, such as glycerin or sorbitol, film-forming agents, such as nonionic, cationic, anionic polymers, amphoteric or zwitterionic agents, thickeners, stabilizing agents, pH-regulating agents, soothing agents, such as allantoin, camphor and menthol, dyes, preservatives and perfumes. As previously indicated, the foam coating can be obtained by means of a pressurized composition. Preferably this pressurized composition contains one or more propellants. The propellant (s) is (are) selected from air, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, pentane and the like. halogenated hydrocarbons. A mixture of these compounds can be used such as, for example, a mixture of one or more volatile hydrocarbons with dimethyl ether. Another particularly preferred propellant is the n-butane / isobutane / propane ternary mixture. The foam coating can still be obtained without a propellant by means of a pump bottle.

The foam preferably has physicochemical properties such that the foam coating does not sag too much. Thus, the foam generally exhibits a rather elastic behavior with an elastic modulus G greater than the viscous modulus G ".G 'is generally between 50 and 2000 Pa, preferably between 100 and 700 Pa, and better still between 130 and 450 Pa. for a frequency of 1 Hz. The viscoelastic behavior of the foam is measured at a temperature of 25 ° C using a thermoHaake imposed RS600 rotary rheometer equipped with a cone-plane geometry with a diameter of 60 mm and an angle of 1 ° The viscoelastic spectrum is determined over a frequency range varying from 10.2 to 10 Hz for a strain of 0.1% The threshold stress of the foam, determined from a stress ramp ranging from 0.017 Pa to 170 Pa for 3 minutes, is generally between 1 and 100 Pa.

The firmness of the foam generally ranges from 10 to 1000 g, and preferably from 100 to 700 g. It is measured by texturometry in back-extrusion mode at room temperature using a Micro Systems TA.XTplus Stable. The geometry used consists of a cylindrical cell of diameter (1) = 50 mm and height h = 50 mm and a piston diameter = 45 mm. The piston penetration rate varies from 0.2 to 10 mm.s-1. The foam coating applied to the hair generally has a thickness ranging from 0.1 to 8 cm.

As indicated above, in a preferred variant, before being applied to the hair in the form of a coating, the composition generating the foam is generally packaged and pressurized in an aerosol device in the form of a composition comprising the said foaming agent (s). , said additive (s) and said propellant (s). The said propellant (s) generally represent between 1 and 25% and preferably between 5 and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition contained in the aerosol device. When the foam is packaged in an aerosol device, it is diffused through a valve and diffuser device adapted to the application on heads. This preference system must be able to operate in all positions. For example, a head-up system is used at the bottom. A Seaquest Perfect Ball Valve with a 2x0.50 mm orifice valve and a standard valve body can be used.

This valve can be associated with different types of diffusers. Advantageously, a spatula-type diffuser model, and more particularly the S5 reference from SeaquestPerfect, is used. An all-position system including a 360 ° ball valve may also be used.

It is also possible to use a two-chamber aerosol device with a pocket. After applying the foam coating to the hair, the reducing composition is generally allowed to act for 3 to 60 minutes, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes.

As explained above, after the possible exposure time, the process according to the invention comprises a step of removing the reducing agent and the foam coating before the foam dries and / or disappears completely.

After the step of removing the reducing agent and the foam coating, the method according to the invention comprises an oxidation fixing step, for closing said bonds, by application of an oxidizing composition to the hair or by setting in contact with the hair with the oxygen of the air. The oxidizing composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates and persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates.

Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide. The oxidizing agent or agents generally represent from 0.1 to 8%, preferably from 0.2 to 5%, by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. Preferably, when the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention contains at least one stabilizing agent for hydrogen peroxide. Mention may be made especially of alkaline or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, such as tetrasodium pyrophosphate, alkali or alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin or salts of acids and oxyquinoline, such as oxyquinoline sulphate. (8-hydroxyquinoline sulfate). More advantageously still, at least one stannate is used in combination or not with at least one pyrophosphate. The stabilizing agent (s) for hydrogen peroxide generally represent from 0.0001% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition. The oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents, such as those mentioned above with regard to the reducing composition.

Generally, the pH of the oxidizing composition ranges from 1 to 13, preferably from 1.5 to 8, more preferably from 1.5 to 5. Generally, the process according to the invention comprises, after the oxidation-fixing step, and after a possible exposure time, a step of rinsing the hair, preferably with water.

The vehicle of the reducing and oxidizing compositions used in the process according to the invention is preferably an aqueous medium consisting of water and may advantageously contain one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, of which, more particularly, alcohols such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol, and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, glycerol, monomethyl ethers, monoethyl and monobutyl ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether. The organic solvents may then be present in concentrations of between approximately 0.1 and 20% and, preferably, between approximately 1 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The pH of the reducing composition and of the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention can be obtained and / or adjusted conventionally by adding either alkaline agents, such as, for example, ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1,3-propanediamine, an alkaline or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, an organic carbonate such as guanidine carbonate, or even an alkaline hydroxide, all these compounds can of course be taken alone or as a mixture, or acidifying agents such as for example hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid and phosphoric acid. The reducing composition and the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention may be independently in the form of a lotion, a gel, a cream or a paste.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the step of applying the reducing composition and / or the step of applying the foam coating and / or the oxidation fixing step is carried out (s) under heating or is (are) immediately followed by heating.

When it is desired to make a perm, it is preferable to use mechanical means of tensioning such as curlers. Preferably, the reducing composition is applied to dry or wet hair, optionally shampooed, previously wound on rolls having 2 to 30 mm in diameter. The composition can also be applied as the hair is rolled up. After the application of the reducing composition, the foam coating is applied to the hair, preferably immediately. Generally, the reducing composition is then left to act for 3 to 60 minutes, preferably 5 to 30 minutes. It is also possible, after application of the reducing composition and the application of the foam coating, to subject the hair to heat treatment by heating at a temperature between 30 and 60 ° C during all or part of the exposure time. In practice, this operation can be conducted by means of a hairdressing helmet, a hair dryer, a round iron or a flat iron, an infrared dispenser and other heating appliances . In particular, it is possible to use, as a means for heating and shaping the hair, a heating iron at a temperature of between 30 and 60 ° C. The curler itself can be heated.

The hair is then optionally dried, by means of a hair dryer or a helmet. The oxidizing composition for reforming the disulfide bonds of keratin is then applied to the wound or unwound hair, generally during a laying time of 1 to 30 minutes, optionally under heat, in this case at a temperature of between 30 and 60 ° C. The hair is usually rinsed thoroughly, preferably with water. A terminal shampoo can be performed. The hair is eventually shaped using a blow-dry.

When it is desired to perform the straightening or the decreption of the hair, the reducing composition is applied to the dry or wet hair. The hair covering is then applied to the hair, preferably immediately, over the entire hair. The reducing composition is optionally allowed to pause, generally for 3 to 60 minutes, optionally under heat, in this case at a temperature of between 30 and 50 ° C., and then rinsed to eliminate the reducing composition and the foam coating.

The hair is smoothed or decreped generally using a comb and then possibly pre-dried, for example by means of a helmet or a hair dryer, then eventually a flat iron. Then the oxidizing composition as defined above is applied, which is generally allowed to act for about 1 to 30 minutes, then the hair is generally rinsed thoroughly, generally with water. A terminal shampoo may be optionally performed. The hair may be shaped using a blow-dry or a flat iron.

The invention is illustrated by the following example.

EXAMPLES Example 1

A composition A capable of generating a foam from an aerosol device is prepared for carrying out the process according to the invention. The composition is as follows (by weight relative to the total weight of the composition): Triethanolamine 2,852 Butane 1.92 Sodium hydroxide 0.2944 Myristic acid 0.22908 30 19 Palmitic acid 3.35984 Stearic acid 4.04708 Fatty acids of copra 0.644 Propane 1.6 Isobutane 4.48 Water 79.6536 Polysorbate 20 0.92 The hair of 5 people is shampooed and then rolled on 10 curlers. The reducing composition of the permanent kit marketed under the name Dulcia Vital Force 1 (9.4% thioglycolic acid, pH 8.4) is applied to each hair. A conventional charlotte (flexible plastic cap) is immediately applied to one half of the hair and the foam covering obtained with composition A dispensed via an aerosol device to contain the released odors is applied to the other half. Let stand 15 minutes, then the charlotte and the foam coating are removed. Odor release as the charlotte and the foam liner are removed is assessed olfactorily by a panel of 5 people. For all 5 people of the olfactory panel, a strong nauseating and very annoying smell of sulfur compounds and ammonia emerges at the moment the charlotte is removed. By cons, no unpleasant odor is detected at the time of rinsing the foam coating. The oxidizing composition of the permanent kit Dulcia Vital Force 1 (2.4% hydrogen peroxide at pH 3) is then applied to the hair. It is rinsed after a exposure time of 5 minutes. The hair curlers are removed and the crimp obtained is identical on both sides of the hair, showing that the application of the composition A in the form of foam generated by an aerosol device does not disturb the setting of the curl of the perm.

EXAMPLE 25 A composition B capable of generating a foam from an aerosol device is prepared for carrying out the process according to the invention. The composition is as follows (by weight relative to the total weight of the composition): Triethanolamine 2,852 Butane 1.92 Sodium hydroxide 0.2944 Stearic acid 9 Propane 1.6 Isobutane 4.48 Water 79.6536 15 Hair 5 people are shampooed and rolled on hair curlers. The reducing composition of the permanent kit marketed under the name Dulcia Vital Force 1 (9.4% thioglycolic acid, pH 8.4) is applied to each hair. A conventional charlotte (flexible plastic cap) is immediately applied to one half of the hair, and the foam layer obtained with composition B dispensed via an aerosol device to contain the released odors is applied to the other half. Let stand 15 minutes, then the charlotte and the foam coating are removed. Odor release as the charlotte 25 and the foam coating are removed is evaluated olfactorily by a panel of 5 people. For all 5 people of the olfactory panel, a strong nauseating and very annoying smell of sulfur compounds and ammonia emerges at the moment the charlotte is removed. On the other hand, no unpleasant odor is detected at the time of rinsing the foam coating. The oxidizing composition of the permanent kit Dulcia Vital Force 1 (2.4% hydrogen peroxide at pH 3) is then applied to the hair. It is rinsed after a exposure time of 5 minutes. The curlers are removed and the crimp obtained is identical on both sides of the hair, showing that the application of the composition B in the form of foam generated by an aerosol device does not disturb the crimp making of the perm.

Claims (16)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method for eliminating odors during a permanent hair deformation process, comprising: - a step of applying to the hair a reducing composition, for reducing the disulfide bonds of the keratin, and then - an application step on the hair a foam coating comprising one or more foaming agents, the foaming agent (s) having an HLB greater than or equal to 8, then - a step of removing the reducing agent and the foam coating before the foam does not dry and / or disappears completely, then - an oxidation fixation step, to close said bonds, by application of an oxidizing composition on the hair or by contacting the hair with the oxygen of the air. 2. Method according to claim 1 characterized in that, after the application of the foam coating, the reducing composition is allowed to act for 3 to 60 minutes, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes. 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the reducing composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, one or more reducing agents chosen from reducing agents of formula H (X ') q (R') r in where X 'represents P, S or SO 2, q is 0 or 1, r is 1 or 2 and R' is a linear, branched, saturated unsaturated hydrocarbon radical (C1-C20), optionally interrupted by a heteroatom, and optionally comprising substituents selected from a hydroxy group, a halogenated group, an amine group or a carboxy group, a ((C1-C30) alkoxy) carbonyl group, an amido group, a ((C1-C30) alkyl) amino carbonyl group, a (C1-C3o) acyl) amino group, a mono or dialkylamino group, a mono or dihydroxylamino group, or a salt thereof in combination with a base. 4. Process according to claim 3, characterized in that the reducing agent or agents are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glycerol monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N-acetyl-cysteamine, N-propionyl-cysteamine. , cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, thiomalic acid, pantheatin, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N- (mercaptoalkyl) -co-hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono or N, N-dialkylmercapto 4-butyramides, aminomercaptoalkylamides, N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinamic acid derivatives and N- (mercaptoalkyl) succinimides, alkylamino mercaptoalkylamides, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglyconate and (2-hydroxy-1-thioglycolate) methyl) ethyl, mercaptoalkylaminoamides, N-mercaptoalkylalcanediamides and formamidine sulfinic acid derivatives, and their salts. 5. Process according to claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the reducing agent or agents are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, cysteine or their salts. 6. Method according to any one of claims 3 to 5 characterized in that the reducing agent or agents represent from 0.05 to 30%, preferably from 1 to 20%, by weight of the total weight of the reducing composition. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the foaming agent or agents are chosen from C 10 -C 22 fatty acid soaps. 8. Process according to claim 7, characterized in that the one or more C 10 -C 22 fatty acid soaps are chosen from the salts of capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, margaric, stearic, arachidic, behenic, oleic and undecylenic acids. , palmitoleic, linoleic, linolenic, arachidonic, erucic, isostearic and mixtures thereof. 9. Method according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that the composition leading to the formation of the foam coating comprises a soap content expressed in fatty acids ranging from 0.1 to 50%, preferably from 1 to 25%, better from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 10. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that the foaming agent (s) are chosen from anionic, nonionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic foaming synthetic surfactants. 11. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the foaming synthetic surfactant or surfactants are chosen from alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, quaternary ammonium salts, polyethoxylated fatty alcohols and polyoxyethylenated fatty acid esters. 20 12. The method of claim 10 or 11 characterized in that the composition leading to the formation of the foam coating comprises a content of foaming synthetic surfactants ranging from 0.1 to 20%, preferably from 0.5 to 15%, better from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the foam coating is applied from a pressurized composition or a pump bottle. 14. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the pressurized composition contains one or more propellants. 30 15. Method according to the preceding claim characterized in that the propellants are selected from air, nitrogen, nitrous oxide, carbon dioxide, dimethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, isobutane, propane, pentane, halogenated hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof. 16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oxidizing composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkaline bromates, polythionates and persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates.15