FR2949677A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for care and/or makeup of keratin material e.g. skin, comprises liquid fatty phase containing volatile linear alkane e.g. n-nonane, and ethylene block copolymer containing blocks, in medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises, in a medium, a liquid fatty phase containing (i) one or more volatile linear alkane, and (ii) ethylene block copolymer containing at least one first block obtained by one or more first monomers, and at least one second block obtained from one or more second monomers, where the first block and the second block are interconnected between these by a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of the first constitutive monomers of the first block and at least one of the second constitutive monomers of the second block. Cosmetic composition comprises, in a medium, at least one liquid fatty phase containing at least one: (i) one or more volatile linear alkane, and (ii) ethylene block copolymer (as ethylene block polymer) containing at least one first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) of >= 40[deg] C, and obtained by one or more first monomers, which are homopolymer prepared from the monomers having a glass transition temperature of >= 40[deg] C; and at least one second block with a glass transition temperature of = 20[deg] C and obtained from all or part of one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from the monomers having a glass transition temperature of = 20[deg] C, where the first block and the second block are interconnected between these by a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of the first constitutive monomers of the first block and at least one of the second constitutive monomers of the second block, and the block copolymer has a polydispersity index of greater than 2, the weight ratio of the volatile linear alkane to the ethylene block copolymer is >= 1, preferably 1-10.

Description

The present invention relates to fluid cosmetic compositions for the care and / or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular in the form of W / O emulsions, having good comfort properties on application and withstand after application, in particular on the skin.

Fluid cosmetic compositions are understood to mean non-solid compositions, that is to say those which flow under their own weight at ambient temperature (25 ° C.). A fluid composition may in particular be in the form of dispersion or emulsions, in particular in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O), oil-in-water (O / W) or multiple emulsion. In particular, it will be a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O). The fluid compositions according to the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than 6000 mPas, measured at 25 ° C. with a Rheomat 180 at a rotation speed of 200 min-1, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation. the compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to the skin, in particular the face, and are preferably care or make-up compositions (in the form of emulsions, in particular emulsions) E / H.

When women use a cosmetic product such as a makeup product, a solar product, or a care product, they want this product has, after application, a good performance. It is known to those skilled in the art to use particularly film-forming polymers to obtain these holding properties during the day.

These polymers are of very different chemical natures and are carried either in a fatty phase or in an aqueous phase. Mention may be made, by way of example, of silicone resins, polyacrylates, latices, etc. These polymers are most often associated with volatile compounds that make it possible to convey them and simultaneously improve the hold, such as volatile silicones, iso-paraffins or ethanol. However, if they are poorly chosen, these volatile compounds can cause poor cosmetic application properties and discomfort, especially if their evaporation rate is too fast.

Conversely, if their evaporation rate is too slow, the holding properties of the product may be insufficient. It therefore remains necessary to find optimal combinations between volatile polymers and oils that make it possible to obtain both holding and comfort properties. The inventors have unexpectedly found that the combination of a block polymer as defined hereinafter with volatile linear alkanes makes it possible to obtain optimized holding properties, combined with comfort properties.

It is known from the prior art to use copolymers as described hereinafter in the present invention, in particular make-up compositions having good holding properties (EP 1 411 069) or anhydrous nail polish compositions having good strength and good performance (EP1 595 524). Said compositions of the prior art conventionally comprise silicone (cyclopentasiloxane) or hydrocarbon (isododecane) volatile oils. But to the knowledge of the Applicant, it has never been described to specifically associate them with volatile linear alkanes, preferably in a defined weight ratio and in particular in fluid compositions such as W / O emulsions, to obtain products with good holding properties (including mattness) and comfort. Thus, the invention relates in particular to a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and containing: one or more volatile linear alkanes and at least one ethylenic block copolymer ( also called sequenced ethylenic polymer), containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature of 20 ° C or less and being derived in whole or in part from a or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers it has a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20 ° C, said first sequence and said second sequence being connected to each other by a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first block and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2, in a weight ratio linear alkane (s) volatile (s) / ethylenic block copolymer greater than or equal to 1, preferably between 1 and 10.

Preferably, said composition is in the form of an emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O). According to a particular embodiment, said composition further comprises at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, or even at least 13% by weight of pulverulent phase (pigments, fillers) relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a particular mode, it is a foundation.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising the application to said keratin materials, and in particular the skin, of a composition according to the invention.

VOLATILE LINEAR ALKANES The composition according to the invention contains one or more volatile linear alkanes (s).

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range of from 30 to 120 ° C, and more particularly from 40 to 100 ° C. A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at ambient temperature (about 25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. . A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may advantageously be of plant origin. Preferably, the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes present in the composition according to the invention comprises at least one isotope 14C of the carbon (carbon 14), in particular the isotope 14C may be present in a ratio 14C / 12C greater than or equal to 1.10-16, preferably greater than or equal to 1.10-15, more preferably greater than or equal to 7.5.10-14, and more preferably greater than or equal to 1.5.10-13. Preferably, the ratio 140/120 vade6.1013 to 1.2.1012. The quantity of isotopes 14C in the volatile linear alkane or the mixture of volatile linear alkanes can be determined by methods known to those skilled in the art such as the Libby counting method, liquid scintillation spectrometry or else accelerator mass spectrometry (Accelerator Mass Spectrometry). Such an alkane can be obtained, directly or in several stages, from a vegetable raw material such as an oil, a butter, a wax, etc. By way of example of alkanes which are suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least a carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of linear alkanes which are suitable for the invention, nnonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is selected from nnonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. According to a preferred embodiment, mention may be made of the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of Application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

The volatile linear alkane alone can be used. It is alternatively or preferentially possible to use a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a number of carbon atoms of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1 or 2 .

According to a first embodiment, a mixture of at least two different volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1 is used. mention may be made especially of volatile linear alkanes mixtures C10 / C11, Cl1 / C12, C12 / C13 or C14 / C15. According to another embodiment, a mixture of at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes having from 10 to 15 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2 is used. As examples, mention may in particular be made of mixtures of linear volatile alkanes C1 0 / C12, or C12 / C14, for a number of carbon n even and mixtures Cl 1 / C13, or C13 / C15 for an odd carbon number n. According to a preferred embodiment, a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes having 10 to 15 different carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of alkanes, is used. Volatile linear Cl 1 / C13 or a mixture of C12 / C14 volatile linear alkanes. Other mixtures combining more than 2 volatile linear alkanes according to the invention, such as, for example, a mixture of at least 3 volatile linear alkanes having 9 to 15 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other in a number of carbon atoms. at least 1, are also part of the invention, but the mixtures of 2 linear volatile alkanes according to the invention are preferred (binary mixtures), said 2 volatile linear alkanes preferably representing more than 95% and better still more than 99% by weight of the total content of volatile linear alkanes in the mixture. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, in a mixture of volatile linear alkanes, the volatile linear alkane having the smallest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. According to another embodiment of the invention, a mixture of volatile linear alkanes is used in which the volatile linear alkane having the largest carbon number is predominant in the mixture. Examples of suitable mixtures are: invention, the following mixtures may be mentioned: - from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of linear Cn volatile alkane with n ranging from 9 to 15 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of volatile linear alkane in Cn + x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

In particular, said mixture of alkanes according to the invention contains: less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of branched hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight of aromatic hydrocarbons, and / or less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight and preferably less than 0.1% by weight of unsaturated hydrocarbons in the mixture.

More particularly, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may be used in the form of a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture.

In particular, use will be made of a mixture of volatile linear alkanes comprising: from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear C11 alkane (n-undecane), from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture.

According to a particular embodiment, the mixture of alkanes is a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture. In particular such a mixture can be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059.

According to another particular embodiment, the n-dodecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 12-97 is used by SASOL. According to another particular embodiment, n-tetradecane sold under the reference PARAFOL 14-97 is used by SASOL.

According to yet another embodiment, a mixture of n-dodecane and n-tetradecane is used.

A composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 90% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s), in particular from 5% to 60% by weight of linear alkane (s). volatile (s), and more particularly from 10 to 40% by weight of linear alkane (s) volatile (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise at least 20% by weight of volatile linear alkane (s) relative to the total volatile oil content (s). of the composition. In particular, a composition of the invention may comprise at least 30%, even at least 40%, in particular at least 50%, especially at least 60%, more particularly at least 70%, and more particularly at least 80%, at least 90% or 100% linear alkane (s) volatile (s) relative to the total volatile oil content (s) of the composition. A composition of the invention comprising 100% linear alkane (s) volatile (s) relative to the total volatile oil content (s) comprises a volatile oil phase composed exclusively of alkane (s) ) linear (s) volatile (s).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, or even be devoid of cyclic silicone oil.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, or even be devoid of silicone oil.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition may comprise less than 10% by weight, or even less than 5% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, or even be devoid of oil of petrochemical origin.

ETHYLENE COPOLYMERS SEQUENCES

The block polymers (copolymers) that can be used according to the invention are, for example, those described in L'Oréal patent application EP 1 411 069 A2, and which comprise a first and at least a second sequence, said first and second sequences being linked together. by an intermediate sequence which comprises at least one constituent monomer of each of said two sequences.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one ethylenic block copolymer (also called sequenced ethylenic polymer), containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40 ° C. and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and at least one second sequence having a temperature of glass transition less than or equal to 20 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C , said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a statistical intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first block and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2.

The sequenced polymer used according to the invention thus comprises at least a first sequence and at least a second sequence. By "at least" a sequence is meant one or more sequences.

By "sequenced" polymer is meant a polymer comprising at least 2 distinct sequences, preferably at least 3 distinct sequences. By "ethylenic" polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers comprising ethylenic unsaturation. The block ethylenic polymer used according to the invention is prepared exclusively from monofunctional monomers.

This means that the sequenced ethylenic polymer used according to the present invention does not contain multifunctional monomers, which make it possible to break the linearity of a polymer in order to obtain a connected or even cross-linked polymer, as a function of the multifunctional monomer content. The polymer used according to the invention also does not contain macromonomers (by macromonomer is meant a monofunctional monomer having a pendant group of polymeric nature, and preferably having a molecular weight greater than 500 g / mol, or a polymer comprising on only one of its ends a polymerizable terminal group (or ethylenically unsaturated)), which are used in the preparation of a graft polymer.

It is specified that in what precedes and what follows the terms "first" and "second" sequences do not condition the order of said sequences (or blocks) in the structure of the polymer.

The first and second sequences of the polymer used in the invention may be advantageously incompatible with each other. By "sequences incompatible with each other" is meant that the mixture formed by a polymer corresponding to the first block and by a polymer corresponding to the second block, is not miscible in the polymerization solvent, predominant in weight, of the sequenced polymer, at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (105 Pa), for a content of the mixture of said polymers greater than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture of said polymers and of said solvent method of polymerization, it being understood that: i) said polymers are present in the mixture in a content such that the respective weight ratio ranges from 10/90 to 90/10, and that ii) each of the polymers corresponding to the first and second blocks has a average molecular weight (in weight or in number) equal to that of the sequenced polymer +/- 15%. In the case of a mixture of polymerization solvents, in the case of two or more solvents present in identical mass proportions, said polymer mixture is immiscible in at least one of them. Of course, in the case of a polymerization carried out in a single solvent, the latter is the majority solvent.

The sequenced polymer according to the invention comprises at least a first sequence and at least a second sequence linked together by an intermediate segment comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block. The intermediate segment (also called intermediate sequence) has a glass transition temperature Tg between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second sequences.

The intermediate segment is a sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer makes it possible to "compatibilize" these blocks. The intermediate segment comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first block and at least one constituent monomer of the second block of the polymer is a random polymer.

Preferably, the intermediate sequence is derived essentially from constituent monomers of the first sequence and the second sequence. By "essentially" is meant at least 85%, preferably at least 90%, better at 95% and even better at 100%.

The block polymer according to the invention is advantageously a film-forming ethylenic block polymer. By "ethylenic" polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of monomers comprising ethylenic unsaturation. By "film-forming" polymer is meant a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention does not comprise silicon atoms in its backbone. By "skeleton" is meant the main chain of the polymer, as opposed to the pendant side chains.

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not water-soluble, that is to say that the polymer is not soluble in water or in a mixture of water and linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, without modification of pH, with an active ingredient content of at least 1% by weight, at room temperature (25 ° C).

Preferably, the polymer according to the invention is not an elastomer.

By "non-elastomeric polymer" is meant a polymer which, when subjected to a stress aimed at stretching it (for example by 30% relative to its initial length), does not return to a length substantially identical to its length. initial when the constraint stops. More specifically, "non-elastomeric polymer" denotes a polymer having an instantaneous recovery R; <50% and delayed recovery R2h <70% after 30% elongation. Preferably, R; is <30%, and R2h <50%. More specifically, the non-elastomeric nature of the polymer is determined according to the following protocol: A polymer film is prepared by pouring a solution of the polymer into a teflon matrix and then drying for 7 days in a controlled atmosphere at 23 ° C. and 50 ° C. 10% relative humidity. A film approximately 100 μm thick in which are cut rectangular specimens (for example by punch) of a width of 15 mm and a length of 80 mm are then obtained. This sample is imposed a tensile stress using an apparatus marketed under the reference Zwick, under the same conditions of temperature and humidity as for drying. The specimens are stretched at a speed of 50 mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 mm, which corresponds to the initial length (lo) of the specimen. The instantaneous recovery R 1 is determined as follows: the specimen is stretched by 30% (max), that is to say approximately 0.3 times its initial length (lo), the stress is released by imposing a speed of return equal to the tensile speed, ie 50 mm / min and the residual elongation of the specimen is measured in percentage, after return to zero load stress (;). The instantaneous recovery in% (R) is given by the following formula: Ri = (Emax - Ei) / Emax) X 100 To determine the delayed recovery, after 2 hours the residual elongation rate of the test piece in percentage (E2h), 2 hours after return to the zero load stress.

The delayed recovery in% (R2h) is given by the formula below: R2h = (Emax - E2h) / Emax) X 100

By way of indication only, a polymer according to one embodiment of the invention preferably has an instantaneous recovery R; 10% and a delayed recovery R2h of 30%.

The polydispersity index of the polymer of the invention is greater than 2.

Advantageously, the block polymer used in the compositions according to the invention has a polydispersity index I greater than 2, for example ranging from 2 to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5, for example ranging from 2.5 to 8. and more preferably greater than or equal to 2.8 and in particular ranging from 2.8 to 6. The polydispersity index I of the polymer is equal to the ratio of the weight average mass Mw to the number average mass Mn. The weight average (Mw) and number (Mn) molar masses are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector). The weight average weight (Mw) of the polymer according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 300,000, for example from 35,000 to 200,000, and more preferably from 45,000 to 150,000 g / mol. The number average mass (Mn) of the polymer according to the invention is preferably less than or equal to 70,000, it ranges, for example, from 10,000 to 60,000, and more preferably from 12,000 to 50,000 g / mol. Preferably, the polydispersity index of the polymer according to the invention is greater than 2, for example ranging from 2 to 9, preferably greater than or equal to 2.5, for example ranging from 2.5 to 8, and better greater than or equal to 2.8 and especially ranging from 2.8 to 6. First sequence before a Tq greater than or equal to 40 ° C. The sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C. has, for example, a Tg ranging from 40 to 150 ° C, preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C, for example from 50 ° C to 120 ° C, and more preferably greater than or equal to 60 ° C, for example from 60 ° C to 120 ° C.

The indicated glass transition temperatures of the first and second sequences can be theoretical Tg determined from the theoretical Tg of the constituent monomers of each of the sequences, which can be found in a reference manual such as Polymer Handbook, 3rd ed, 1989, John Wiley, according to the following relationship, known as Fox's Law:

1 / Tg = E (mi / Tg;), where ï is the mass fraction of the monomer i in the considered sequence and Tg; being the glass transition temperature of the homopolymer of the monomer i. Unless otherwise indicated, the Tg values for the first and second sequences in the present application are theoretical Tg. The difference between the glass transition temperatures of the first and second blocks is generally greater than 10 ° C, preferably greater than 20 ° C, and more preferably greater than 30 ° C.

In the present invention, it is meant by the expression comprised between ... and an interval of values whose mentioned terminals are excluded, and from ... to ... and ranging from ... to ..., an interval of values whose terminals are included. The sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C may be a homopolymer or a copolymer.

The sequence having a Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C may be issued in whole or in part from one or more monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C. This sequence can also be called a rigid sequence.

In the case where this sequence is a homopolymer, it is derived from monomers, which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have glass transition temperatures greater than or equal to 40 ° C. This first block may be a homopolymer consisting of a single type of monomer (the Tg of the corresponding homopolymer is greater than or equal to 40 ° C.).

In the case where the first block is a copolymer, it may be issued in whole or in part from one or more monomers, the nature and concentration of which are chosen such that the Tg of the resulting copolymer is greater than or equal to 40 ° C. C. The copolymer may for example comprise: monomers which are such that the homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C., for example a Tg ranging from 40 ° C. to 150 ° C., preferably greater than or equal to 50 ° C, ranging for example from 50 ° C to 120 ° C, and better still greater than or equal to 60 ° C, ranging for example from 60 ° C to 120 ° C, and - monomers which are such that homopolymers prepared from these monomers have Tg's lower than 40 ° C, selected from monomers having a Tg of from 20 ° C to 40 ° C and / or monomers having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C, for example a Tg ranging from -100 ° C to 20 ° C, preferably below 15 ° C, in particular ranging from 80 ° C to 15 ° C and better still below 10 ° C, for example from at 50 ° C to 0 ° C, as described below. The first monomers whose homopolymers have a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C. are preferably chosen from the following monomers, also called main monomers: methacrylates of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3) COOR 1 in which R, represents a linear or branched, unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl group or R, represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a C8 cycloalkyl group at C12, such as isobornyl methacrylate, - acrylates of formula CH2 = CH-OOOR2 in which R2 represents a C4-C12 cycloalkyl group such as an isobornyl group or a tert-butyl group, - (meth) acrylamides of the formula: wherein R 1 and R 8, which may be identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 to C 10 alkyl group, such as a group n-butyl, t-butyl, isoprop yl, isohexyl, isooctyl, or isononyl; or R, is H and R8 is 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl, and R 'is H or methyl. Examples of monomers that may be mentioned include N-butylacrylamide, N-t-butylacrylamide, N-isopropylacrylamide, N, N-dimethylacrylamide and N, N-dibutylacrylamide, and mixtures thereof.

The first block is advantageously obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-OOOR2 and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -OOOR2 in which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group preferably C8 to C12 cycloalkyl, such as isobornyl. The monomers and their proportions are preferably chosen so that the glass transition temperature of the first block is greater than or equal to 40 ° C. According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained from: i) at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-OOOR2 in which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a C8 cycloalkyl group at C12, such as isobornyl, - ii) and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 in which R'2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, preferably a cycloalkyl group C8 to C12, such as isobornyl.

According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-OOOR2 in which R2 represents a C8 to C12 cycloalkyl group, such as isobornyl, and from minus a methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 wherein R'2 represents a C8-C12 cycloalkyl group, such as isobornyl.

Preferably, R2 and R'2 represent independently or simultaneously an isobornyl group.

Preferably, the block copolymer comprises from 50 to 80% by weight of methacrylate / isobornyl acrylate, from 10 to 30% by weight of isobutyl acrylate and from 2 to 10% by weight of acrylic acid. The first block can be obtained exclusively from said acrylate monomer and said methacrylate monomer.

The acrylate monomer and the methacrylate monomer are preferably in mass proposals of between 30:70 and 70:30, preferably between 40:60 and 60:40, in particular of the order of 50:50.

The proportion of the first block is preferably 20 to 90% by weight of the polymer, more preferably 30 to 80% and more preferably 60 to 80%. According to one embodiment, the first block is obtained by polymerization of isobornyl methacrylate and isobornyl acrylate.

Second glass transition temperature sequence below 20 ° C. The second sequence advantageously has a glass transition temperature Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C., for example a Tg ranging from -100 ° C. to 20 ° C., preferably less than or equal to 15 ° C., in particular ranging from -80 ° C. ° C at 15 ° C and better still less than or equal to 10 ° C, for example ranging from - 100 ° C to 10 ° C, in particular ranging from 30 ° C to 10 ° C. The second sequence is derived in whole or in part from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C.

This sequence can also be called a flexible sequence.

The monomer having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C (called the second monomer) is preferably chosen from the following monomers:

the acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3, R 3 representing a linear or branched C 1 to C 12 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which there is (are) optionally intercalated (s) a or more heteroatoms selected from 0, N, S, - methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR4, R4 representing a linear or branched C6-C12 unsubstituted alkyl group in which is (are) optionally intercalated ( s) one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S; vinyl esters of formula R 5 -CO-O-CH =CH 2 where R 5 represents a linear or branched C 4 to C 12 alkyl group; vinyl alcohol and C4 to C12 alcohol ethers; C4 to C12 N-alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide; and mixtures thereof. The monomers having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C are preferred isobutyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or mixtures thereof in all proportions. Each of the first and second sequences may contain, in a minor proportion, at least one constituent monomer of the other sequence. Thus the first sequence may contain at least one constituent monomer of the second sequence and vice versa. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, said first monomer or monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C., are chosen from: methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -000R1 wherein R1 represents a linear or branched, unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, - the acrylates of formula CH2 = In which R 2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, the (meth) acrylamides of formula: wherein R, R and R 8, which may be identical or different, each represent an atom of hydrogen or a linear or branched C 1 -C 12 alkyl group, or R 1 represents H and R 8 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R 'denotes H or methyl. and the second monomer or monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C., are chosen from: the acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3, R 3 representing a unsubstituted C 1 to C 12 alkyl group, linear or branched, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S are optionally intercalated; methacrylates of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3) -COOR 4, R 4 representing a linear or branched C 6 to C 12 unsubstituted alkyl group in which one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S are optionally intercalated; vinyl esters of formula R 5 -CO-O-CH =CH 2 where R 5 represents a linear or branched C 4 to C 12 alkyl group; vinyl alcohol and C4 to C12 alcohol ethers; C4 to C12 N-alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide; and mixtures thereof. Each of the first and / or second sequence comprises, in addition to the monomers indicated above, one or more other monomers called additional monomers, different from the main monomers mentioned above. In particular, each of the first and / or second sequence comprises at least one additional monomer. The nature and amount of this additional monomer (s) are chosen so that the sequence in which they are located has the desired glass transition temperature. This additional monomer is for example chosen from: - monomers containing ethylenic unsaturation (s) comprising at least one tertiary amine function such as 2-vinylpyridine, 4-vinylpyridine, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate, diethylaminoethyl methacrylate, dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide and salts thereof; methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -OO0R6 in which R6 represents a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as a methyl group, ethyl, propyl or isobutyl, said alkyl group being substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups (such as 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate) and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I, F), such as trifluoroethyl methacrylate, - methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR9, R9 representing a linear or branched C6-C12 alkyl group, in which is found (s) ev currently intercalated one or more heteroatoms selected from O, N and S, said alkyl group being substituted by one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I, F); the acrylates of formula CH2 = CHCOOR16, wherein R, represents a linear or branched C12 to C12 alkyl group substituted by one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl groups and halogen atoms (Cl, Br, I and F); , such as 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate and 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, or Rio represents a C1-C12-O-POE (polyoxyethylene) alkyl with a repeat of the oxyethylene unit 5 to 10 times, for example methoxy- POE, or R8 represents a polyoxyethylenated group comprising from 5 to 10 units of ethylene oxide.

In particular, the first block and / or the second block comprises, as additional monomer, (meth) acrylic acid, preferably acrylic acid. The additional monomer (s) may represent from 1 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the polymer, preferably from 3 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said polymer. In particular, said block copolymer is such that the first block is obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH 2 CHCH-OOOR 2 in which R 2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3) -COOR' 2 in which R '2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, and the second block is obtained from at least a second monomer such as the homopolymer obtained at a glass transition temperature less than or equal to 20 ° C, and an additional monomer of acrylic acid type. Preferably, the polymer of the invention comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in the first block and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block. Preferably, the polymer comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in an equivalent proportion by weight in the first block and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block. Preferably, the polymer comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in an equivalent proportion by weight in the first block, and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block, the first block representing % by weight of the polymer. Preferably, the polymer comprises at least isobornyl acrylate and isobornyl methacrylate monomers in an equivalent proportion by weight in the first block, and isobutyl acrylate and acrylic acid monomers in the second block. Preferably, the Tg sequence greater than 40 ° C represents 70% by weight of the polymer, and the acrylic acid represents 5% by weight of the polymer. According to one embodiment, the first sequence does not comprise additional monomer. According to a preferred embodiment, the second block comprises acrylic acid as additional monomer. In particular, the second block is advantageously obtained from an acrylic acid monomer and from at least one other monomer having a Tg of less than or equal to 20 ° C. According to a preferred embodiment, the invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the makeup and / or care of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one copolymer comprising at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH 2 = CH- Wherein R 2 is C 8 -C 12 cycloalkyl and / or at least one methacrylate monomer of the formula CH 2 = C (CH 3) -COOR '2 wherein R' 2 is C 8 to C 12 cycloalkyl, at least one is a second acrylate monomer of the formula CH2 = CHCOOR3, wherein R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C12 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, and at least one acrylic acid monomer. Preferably, the copolymer used in the compositions according to the invention is obtained from at least one isobornyl methacrylate monomer, at least one isobornyl acrylate monomer, at least one isobutyl acrylate monomer. and at least one acrylic acid monomer. Advantageously, the copolymer used in the invention comprises from 50 to 80% by weight of methacrylate / isobornyl acrylate mixture, from 10 to 30% by weight of isobutyl acrylate and from 2 to 10% by weight of acid. acrylic. The block copolymer may advantageously comprise more than 2% by weight of acrylic acid monomers, and especially from 2 to 15% by weight, for example from 3 to 15% by weight, in particular from 4 to 15% by weight, or even from 4 to 15% by weight. 10% by weight of acrylic acid monomers, relative to the total weight of said copolymer.

Intermediate segment

The intermediate segment (also called intermediate sequence) connects the first sequence and the second sequence of the polymer used according to the present invention. The intermediate segment results from the polymerization of: i) the first monomer or monomers, and optionally the additional monomer or monomers, remaining available after their polymerization at a conversion rate of at most 90% to form the first sequence, ii) and the or second monomers, and optionally additional monomer (s) added to the reaction mixture.

The formation of the second sequence is initiated when the first monomers no longer react or become incorporated in the polymer chain either because they are all consumed or because their reactivity no longer allows them to be.

Thus, the intermediate segment comprises the first available monomers, resulting from a conversion rate of these first monomers of less than or equal to 90%, during the introduction of the second monomer or monomers during the synthesis of the polymer. Block polymer is a statistical polymer (can also be called a statistical sequence). That is to say, it comprises a statistical distribution of the first monomer (s) and second monomer (s) and any additional monomer (s) that may be present.

Thus, the intermediate segment is a statistical sequence, as are the first sequence and the second sequence if they are not homopolymers (i.e., both are formed from at least two different monomers ).

Process for preparing the copolymer: The block ethylenic copolymer according to the invention is prepared by free radical polymerization, according to the techniques well known in this type of polymerization. The free radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of an initiator whose nature is adapted, in known manner, depending on the desired polymerization temperature and the polymerization solvent. In particular, the initiator may be chosen from peroxide-functional initiators, oxidation-reduction pairs, or other radical polymerization initiators known to those skilled in the art. In particular, as a peroxide-functional initiator, there may be mentioned, for example: a. peroxyesters, such as terbutylperoxyacetate, tertbutylperbenzoate, tertbutylperoxy-2-ethylhexanoate (Akzo Nobel Trigonox 21S), 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane ( Trigonox 141 from Akzo Nobel); b. peroxydicarbonates, such as di-isopropylperoxydicarbonate; c. peroxycetones, such as methyl ethyl ketone peroxide; d. hydroperoxides, such as hydrogen peroxide (H2O2), terbutylhydroperoxide; 30 e. diacyl peroxides, such as acetyl peroxide, benzoyl peroxide; f. dialkyl peroxides, such as di-tert-butyl peroxide; inorganic peroxides, such as potassium peroxodisulphate (K2S2O8); As an initiator in the form of a redox couple, mention may be made of the potassium thiosulfate + potassium peroxodisulphate pair, for example. According to a preferred embodiment, the initiator is chosen from organic peroxides comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the initiator used is 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane sold under the reference Trigonox 141 by Akzo Nobel. The block copolymer used according to the invention is prepared by free radical polymerization and not by controlled or living polymerization. In particular, the polymerization of the block ethylenic copolymer is carried out in the absence of control agents, and in particular in the absence of control agent conventionally used in living or controlled polymerization processes such as nitroxides, alkoxyamines dithioesters, dithiocarbamates, dithiocarbonates or xanthates, trithiocarbonates, copper catalysts, for example.

As previously indicated, the intermediate segment is a statistical sequence, as is the first sequence and the second sequence if they are not homopolymers (i.e., both are formed from at least two different monomers).

The block copolymer may be prepared by free radical polymerization, and in particular by a process comprising mixing, in the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, at least one glass transition monomer greater than or equal to 40 ° C., less than a glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C according to the following sequence: - is poured into the reactor, a portion of the polymerization solvent and optionally a portion of the initiator and monomers of the first casting mixture that the the reaction mixture is heated to a reaction temperature of between 60 and 120 ° C., the at least one first monomer with a Tg of greater than or equal to 40 ° C. and, optionally, part of the initiator, which is then poured in a first casting. it is left to react for a time T corresponding to a conversion rate of said monomers of 90% maximum, - then poured into the reactor, in a second casting, at n new polymerization initiator, said at least one second glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C, which is allowed to react for a time T 'after which the conversion rate of said monomers reaches a plateau; the reaction mixture is cooled to room temperature.

Preferably, the copolymer may be prepared by free radical polymerization, in particular by a process consisting of mixing, in one and the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, an acrylic acid monomer, at least one lower glass transition monomer or equal to 20 ° C, at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH2 = CH-OO0R2 in which R2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 in which R 2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, according to the following stage sequence: a portion of the polymerization solvent and optionally a part of the initiator and monomers of the first casting are poured into the reactor, a mixture which is heated to a reaction temperature of between 60 and 120 ° C., the at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH 2 CHCH-OOOR 2 and at least one monomer is then poured in a first casting. re methacrylate of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 as monomers of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and optionally a portion of the initiator which is allowed to react for a duration T corresponding to one conversion rate of said monomers 90% maximum, - then poured into the reactor, in a second casting, again the polymerization initiator, the acrylic acid monomer and said at least one glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C, which is allowed to react for a time T 'after which the conversion rate of said monomers reaches a plateau, - the reaction mixture is brought to room temperature. By polymerization solvent is meant a solvent or a mixture of solvents. In particular, as a polymerization solvent that may be used, mention may be made of: ketones that are liquid at ambient temperature, such as methyl ethyl ketone, methyl isobutyl ketone, diisobutyl ketone, isophorone, cyclohexanone or acetone; propylene glycol ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate or dipropylene glycol mono-butyl ether; short-chain esters (having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate, acetate isopentyl; ethers which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as diethyl ether, dimethyl ether or dichlorodiethyl ether; alkanes which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as decane, heptane, dodecane, isododecane, cyclohexane and isohexadecane; aromatic cyclic compounds which are liquid at ambient temperature, such as toluene and xylene; aldehydes which are liquid at room temperature, such as benzaldehyde and acetaldehyde, and mixtures thereof. The polymerization solvent may be chosen in particular from ethyl acetate, butyl acetate, alcohols such as isopropanol, ethanol, aliphatic alkanes such as isododecane and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the polymerization solvent is a mixture of butyl acetate and isopropanol or isododecane. According to another embodiment, the copolymer may be prepared by free radical polymerization according to a preparation process, comprising mixing, in the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, at least one lower glass transition monomer. or at 20 ° C, and at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, according to the following step sequence: - is poured into the reactor, a part of the polymerization solvent and possibly a part of the initiator and monomers of the first casting, which mixture is heated to a reaction temperature of 60 ° to 120 ° C., said at least one lower glass transition monomer is then poured in a first casting, equal to 20 ° C and optionally a part of the initiator which is allowed to react for a time T corresponding to a conversion rate of said monomers of 90% maximum, then poured into the the reactor, in a second casting, again the polymerization initiator, said at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, which is allowed to react for a time T 'at the end of which the rate of conversion of said monomers reaches a plateau, - the reaction mixture is brought to room temperature.

According to a preferred embodiment, the copolymer may be prepared by free radical polymerization according to a preparation process, comprising mixing, in the same reactor, a polymerization solvent, an initiator, an acrylic acid monomer, at least one a glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C, at least one monomer of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and in particular as monomers of Tg greater than or equal to 40 ° C, at least one acrylate monomer of in which R 2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH 2 CC (CH 3) -COOR' 2 in which R '2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, according to the formula following step sequence: - is poured into the reactor, a portion of the polymerization solvent and optionally a portion of the initiator and the monomers of the first casting mixture that is heated to a temperature of reaction between 60 and 120 ° C, - is then poured, in a first casting, the acrylic acid monomer and said at least one glass transition monomer less than or equal to 20 ° C and optionally a portion of the initiator that one is allowed to react for a time T corresponding to a conversion rate of said monomers of 90% maximum, then poured into the reactor, in a second casting, again the polymerization initiator, said at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH 2 = CH-OOOR 2 and said at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3) -COOR '2, as a monomer of T g greater than or equal to 40 ° C, which is allowed to react for a period T' at after which the conversion rate of said monomers reaches a plateau, - the reaction mixture is brought to room temperature. The polymerization temperature is preferably of the order of 90 ° C. The reaction time after the second casting is preferably between 3 and 6 hours. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, use will be made of a poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) copolymer as prepared according to Example 1 described below. According to the invention, the block copolymer may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight of active material, preferably between 0.5 to 20% and even more preferably between 1 to 10% by weight of material. In addition to the block copolymer and the volatile linear alkane (s), the composition further comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM Physiologically acceptable medium is intended to mean a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the skin. The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. A composition of the invention may be anhydrous or in the form of a dispersion or emulsion. An emulsion may have an oily or aqueous continuous phase. Such an emulsion may be, for example, an inverse (W / O) or direct (O / W) emulsion, or a multiple (W / O / W or H / E / H) emulsion. In the case of emulsions, inverse emulsions (W / O) are preferred. Other ingredients of the fatty phase A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content varying from 3 to 95%, in particular from 5 to 80%, in particular from 10 to 70%, and more particularly from 20 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise non-volatile hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at room temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000. Pa (10-3 at 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 at 10 mm Hg). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom. , and in particular at least one Si-O group. By fluorinated oil is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.

By hydrocarbon oil is meant an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example, in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals or in the form of an ester function.

Nonvolatile oils Nonvolatile oils may, in particular, be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or nonvolatile silicone oils. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; - hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, isostearate of physostearyl and lauroyl glutamate / octyldodecyl / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C4 at C36, and especially from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may, in particular, be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, shea oil, alfalfa, poppy, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, bancoulier, passionflower, shea butter, aloe oil, sweet almond oil, peach almond oil, peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, baobab oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, calendula oil, camelina oil, canola oil, carrot oil, safflower oil, hemp oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, squash seed oil, wheat germ oil, jojoba oil, lily oil, macadamia oil, corn oil, meadowfoam oil, St. John's wort oil, monoi oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive oil olive oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, kiwi seed oil, grapeseed oil, oil Pistachio oil, pumpkin oil, pumpkin oil, quinoa oil, rose hip oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil, and watermelon oil, and mixtures thereof, or triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polybutenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam or squalane; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R, wherein R, represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R.sup.1 + R.sup.2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, chosen from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, stearate or isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate , octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates; Alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene dioctanoate glyco 1, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol dietyl 2-hexanoate, and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate, and the like. octyldocecyl, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and of diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DDDA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7, sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in the application US 2004-175338, the copolymers of diol dimer and diacid dimer and their esters, such as dimer copolymers dilinoleyl diol / dimer dilinoleic and their esters, such as for example Plandool-G, the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, or dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; C12-C22, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof, and - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as marketed dicaprylyl carbonate under the name CETIOL CC, by COGNIS, - oils of high molar mass having, in particular, a molar mass ranging from about 400 to about 10,000 g / mol, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000 g / mol. mol, in particular from about 750 to about 7500 g / mol, and more particularly from about 1000 to about 5000 g / mol. As oil of high molar mass that can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned oils chosen from: • lipophilic polymers, • linear fatty acid esters having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 70, • hydroxylated esters Aromatic esters, esters of branched fatty alcohols or of C24-C28 fatty acids, silicone oils, oils of vegetable origin, and mixtures thereof. fluorinated oils that may be partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based, such as fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers or fluorinated silicones, as described in document EP-A-847,752; silicone oils, such as non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates and their mixtures.

According to a preferred embodiment, hydrocarbon oils will be used as non-volatile oils.

According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise from 1% to 70% by weight, preferably from 3% to 50% by weight of non-volatile oil relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention may comprise less than 5% by weight of silicone compounds, in particular less than 2% by weight, and for example less than 0.5% by weight of additional silicone compounds. (other than those associated with ingredients in raw materials).

A lipophilic structuring agent A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from a wax, a pasty compound, and mixtures thereof. In particular, a wax that is suitable for the invention may especially be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral, and synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. As examples of waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of: waxes of animal origin, such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Japan wax, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugar cane waxes, - mineral waxes, for example paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites, synthetic waxes, among which polyethylene waxes, and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, silicone waxes, in particular substituted linear polysiloxanes; mention may be made, for example, of polyether silicone waxes, alkyl or alkoxy dimethicones having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, alkyl methicones such as C 30 -C 45 alkylmethicone sold under the trade name AMS C 30 by Dow Corning, hydrogenated oils which are concretes at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and 25 ° specific fatty esters C as the C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name Kester WAX K82H by Koster Keunen, and / or mixtures thereof. Preferably, use will be made of polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, carnauba waxes, hydrogenated jojoba oil, candellila waxes, beeswaxes and / or mixtures thereof. A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one pasty compound. The presence of a pasty compound may advantageously confer improved comfort during the deposition of a composition of the invention on keratinous fibers. Such a compound may advantageously be chosen from lanolin and its derivatives; polymeric silicone compounds or not; polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds; vinyl polymers, especially olefin homopolymers; olefin copolymers; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C8-C30 alkyl group; homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, in particular C2-C250 diols; esters of acid or fatty alcohol; and their mixtures. Among the esters, mention may be made especially of: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglyceryl esters, such as polyglyceryl-2-triisostearate, adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, in the image, in particular, of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol or such as polyacyladipate-2 bis diglyceryl; arachidyl propionate sold under the name Waxenol 801 by Alzo; phytosterol esters; triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as hydrogenated coco-glycerides; non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as the products Risocast DA-H, and Risocast DA-L; and their mixtures.

The structuring agent (s) may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight of agents, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous Phase The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase. The aqueous phase comprises water. A water that is suitable for the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at ambient temperature -25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol; the polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ether of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, the (C 1 -C 4) alkyl ethers of mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. The aqueous phase may further comprise stabilizing agents, for example sodium chloride, magnesium dichloride and magnesium sulfate.

The aqueous phase may also comprise any water-soluble or water-dispersible compound compatible with an aqueous phase such as gelling agents, film-forming polymers, thickeners, surfactants and mixtures thereof.

When the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase, it may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, especially from 5% to 50%, and more particularly from 10% to 45% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may be anhydrous. An anhydrous composition may comprise less than 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular less than 3%, especially less than 2%, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water. relative to the total weight of the composition. More particularly, an anhydrous composition may be free of water.

THICKENING AGENTS According to the fluidity of the composition that it is desired to obtain, one or more thickening or gelling agents may be incorporated in a composition of the invention. A thickening or gelling agent suitable for the invention may be hydrophilic, that is to say soluble or dispersible in water. As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of water-soluble or water-dispersible thickening polymers. These may especially be chosen from: carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol (CTFA name: carbomer) by the company Goodrich; polyacrylates and polymethacrylates such as the products sold under the names Lubrajel and Norgel by the company GUARDIAN or under the name Hispagel by the company HISPANO CHIMICA; polyacrylamides; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally crosslinked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by Clariant under the name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide); crosslinked anionic copolymers of acrylamide and of AMPS, in the form of an W / O emulsion, such as those marketed under the name SEPIGEL 305 (CTFA name: Polyacrylamide / C13-14 Isoparaffin / Laureth-7) and under the name SIMULGEL 600 (CTFA name: Acrylamide / Sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / Isohexadecane / Polysorbate 80) by the company SEPPIC; polysaccharide biopolymers such as xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, acacia gum, scleroglucans, chitin and chitosan derivatives, carrageenans, gellanes, alginates, celluloses such as microcrystalline cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellullose and hydroxypropylcellulose; and their mixtures. A thickening or gelling agent that is suitable for the invention may be lipophilic. It can be mineral or organic. Examples of lipophilic thickening agents that may be mentioned are modified clays, such as modified magnesium silicate (Bentone gel VS38 from RHEOX), modified hectorites such as hectorite modified with an ammonium chloride of fatty acid in C C22, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS or that sold under the name Bentone 38 CE by the company RHEOX or that marketed under the name Bentone Gel V5 5V by the company ELEMENTIS. Polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E-506C. by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between a dicarboxylic acid comprising at least 32 carbon atoms and an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, in which the polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least a monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular, copolymers of ethylene diamine / stearyl dilinoleate such as that sold under the name Uniclear 100 VG by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; galactomanans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C 1 -C 6 alkyl chains, and in particular C1 to C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the diblock, triblock or radial type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-propylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton by the company Shell Chemical Co., or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those sold by PENRECO under the name Versagel as per for example the mixture of butylene triblock copolymer / ethylene / styrene and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960). Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in a cosmetic composition of the invention, it is also possible to use hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as hydrogenated castor oil, fatty alcohols, in particular C8 to C26 alcohols, and more particularly C12 to C22, for example, mysrityl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or behenyl alcohol. According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise thickening agents with an active material content of from 0.01% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 20% by weight, in particular from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

COLORING MATERIALS According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises at least one dyestuff, in particular at least one pulverulent dyestuff. A cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate at least one dyestuff chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions, fat-soluble or water-soluble dyes, specific optical effect and their mixtures. The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film.

The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.1 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 5 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. As inorganic pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and Chromium hydrate.

Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542 669, EP-A-787 730, EP-A-787 731 and WO-A-96/08537. By nacres, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC orange 5 and yellow quinoline. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and caramel. The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect. This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, i.e. unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example, monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, stabilized means devoid of effect of variability of color with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and especially interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, particles comprising an organic or inorganic substrate, monomaterial or multimaterial, at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and - mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, mention may be made, for example, of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te. Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (e.g., bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals.

CHARGES A composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of organic or mineral nature. By charge is meant colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic nature, they allow to confer the composition of softness, dullness and uniformity to make-up. The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention may be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate form between these defined forms. The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the process. composition.

Among the inorganic fillers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, trimethyl siloxysilicate, kaolin, bentonite, calcium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate. hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, silica-based fillers such as Aerosil 200, Aerosil 300; Sunsphere H-33, Sunsphere H-51 marketed by Asahi Glass; Chemicelen marketed by Asahi Chemical; silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG series sold by Nippon Sheet Glass, and their blends.

Among the organic fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon Orgasol from Atochem), poly-b-alanine and polyethylene, powders of polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon), lauroyl lysine, starch, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow microspheres of polymers, such as EXPANCEL (NOBEL INDUSTRIE), metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 atoms carbon, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore L 200 (Chemdal Corporation), silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearl, for example) polyurethane powders, in particular cross-linked polyurethane powders comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone, such as hexamethylene di-i polymer; socyanate / trimethylol hexyllactone, marketed under the name PLASTIC POWDER D-4000 or PLASTIC POWDER D-8000 by the company TOSHIKI, Carnauba microcires, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350 by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes of synthetic wax, such as that sold under the name MicroEase 114S by the company Micro Powders, the micro-waxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names of Micro Care 300 and 310 by the MICRO POWDERS company, the microwaxes consisting of a mixture of Carnauba wax and synthetic wax, such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325 by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those sold under the names of Micropoly 200 °, 220 °, 220L and 250S by the company MICRO POWDERS; and their mixtures.

The fillers may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

ADDITIVES A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise any additive usually used in the field concerned, for example chosen from gums, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, silicone surfactants, gums, resins, dispersing agents, semi-crystalline polymers, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV protective agents, cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizing agents, emollients, and mixtures thereof.

It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention, so that the desired cosmetic properties and stability properties of these they are not affected.

A composition according to the invention may, in particular, be in the form of a care or makeup composition, in particular makeup of the skin, lips or eyelashes.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is a foundation. 25

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care or makeup of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising the application to said keratin materials, and in particular the skin of a composition as defined above.

The present invention is set forth in more detail in the examples described hereinafter which are provided by way of illustration of the invention and should not be construed as limiting the invention.

EXAMPLES

EXAMPLE 1 Preparation of a Copolymer of Poly (Isobornyl Acrylate / Disobornyl Methacrylate / Isobutyl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid) 300 g of isododecane are introduced into a 1-liter reactor, then the temperature is increased so as to pass from the room temperature (25 ° C) at 90 ° C in 1 hour. 105 g of isobornyl methacrylate, 105 g of isobornyl acrylate and 1.8 g of 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane (Trigonox 141) are then added at 90 ° C. and over 1 hour. from Akzo Nobel). The mixture is maintained for 1 hour at 90 ° C. 75 g of isobutyl acrylate, 15 g of acrylic acid and 1.2 g of 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane are then introduced into the above mixture, still at 90 ° C. and over 30 minutes. . The mixture is kept at 90 ° C. for 3 hours, then the mixture is cooled. A 50% solution of copolymer active material in isododecane is obtained. A copolymer is obtained comprising a first poly (isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate) block or block having a Tg of 128 ° C., a second poly (isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid) block having a Tg of -9 ° C. C and an intermediate block which is a random copolymer of isobornyl acrylate / isobornyl methacrylate / isobutyl acrylate / acrylic acid. The Tg of the copolymer is 74 ° C.

This is theoretical Tg calculated by Fox law.

Examples 2 to 4: W / O foundation: influence of the nature of the volatile oil% by weight Al PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate sold under the 4.00 reference ARLACEL P 135 by the company UNIQEMA Isodecyl neopentanoate 1.00 A2 Oil volatile 12.00 A3 bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone 3.00 41 Gel ISD V by Elementis A4 Isodecyl neopentanoate 3.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate 1 '79 Iron oxide yellow coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.54 aluminum Black iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.19 aluminum Titanium dioxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 7'48 aluminum A5 Isododecane 9.40 Poly (Isobornyl-co-acrylate methacrylate 16.00 isobornyl-isobutyl co-acrylate-co-acrylic acid) with 50% active material in isododecane as prepared according to Example 1 above A6 Silicon microsphere sold under the reference SB 5 , 50 700 by the company Miyoshi Kasei A7 Perfume 0.30 B Demineralized water 2 7.50 Methyl paraben 0.20 PEG 20 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxy ethanol 0.70 C Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% by mass Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 (Invention) (comparative) (comparative) Nature of Mixture n-Isododecane Cyclopentasiloxane undecane: n-tridecane in which the volatile oil n-undecane is predominant in the mixture * * as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059 10 Procedure In the main beaker, the constituents of the phase Al which is heated at 50-55 ° C until a liquid and homogeneous mixture is obtained. Phase A2 and phase A3 are then successively introduced at ambient temperature and with stirring (Moritz stirrer: 1000 rpm), until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

Phase A4 is prepared separately by grinding three times with the three-cylinder pigment mixture and isodecyl neopentanoate. This phase A4 is added with stirring, then successively introduced phase A5 which has been prepared separately by diluting the polymer with isododecane, phase A6 and phase A7.

The aqueous phase B is prepared in the following manner: methyl paraben, magnesium sulphate and PEG-20 are weighed into a beaker. Water previously boiled and whose temperature is close to 85-90 ° C. is then added, followed by stirring with the aid of a magnetized bar until the three components are dissolved. The temperature is allowed to drop to 40 ° C and phenoxy ethanol is added.

The emulsion is carried out at ambient temperature: the aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase, while stirring is gradually increased (Moritz) up to 4500 rpm. This stirring is maintained for 10 minutes and finally phase C (ethanol) is added. The product obtained is stirred Rayneri (pale), and stirred for 10 min at 100 rpm.

Measurement of dullness and mattness Principle of measurement The dullness of the face is measured using the polarimetric camera, which is a black-and-white polarimetric imaging system, with which we acquire images in black and white. Parallel (P) and cross (C) polarized light. By analyzing the image resulting from the subtraction of the two images (P-C), the brightness is quantified by measuring the average gray level of the 5% of the brightest pixels corresponding to the gloss zones.

Conduct of the test The test is conducted as follows: 16 women arrive in the air-conditioned waiting room (22 ° C + 1- 2 ° C) 15 minutes before the start of the test. They remove their makeup and make an image of one of their cheeks with the polarimetric camera. This image makes it possible to measure the gloss with TO before makeup. Then we weigh 100 mg of foundation in a watch glass that is applied to the bare fingers on the half face on which the measurement was made at TO. After a drying time of 15 minutes, the polarimetric camera then produces an image of the makeup cheek. This image measures the brightness just after makeup (Timm).

The models then return to the air-conditioned room for 3 hours. We finally realize with the polarimetric camera an image of the makeup cheek after 3 hours of waiting. This image makes it possible to measure the gloss after 3 hours of makeup (T3h).

Expression of results We calculate the difference (Timm - TO) that measures the effect of makeup. A negative value means that the makeup reduces the shine of the skin and is therefore mattifying. The difference (T3h - Timm) which measures the behavior of this effect is then calculated. The value obtained must be as low as possible which means that the dullness of the makeup does not change over time. Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 (Invention) (Comparative) (Comparative) Nature of Mixture n-Isododecane Cyclopentasiloxane the volatile oil undecane: n-tridecane in which n-undecane is predominant in the mixture * Matte (Timm-3, 85 -6.90 -6.73 TO) Holding the 3.52 4.91 4.38 dullness (T3h-Timm) * as prepared according to the application WO2008 / 155059 25 These results show that the alkane mixture ( s) linear (s) volatile (s) used according to the invention in combination with the ethylenic block copolymer gives the best results in terms of mattness performance.

Sensory Evaluation A panel of 4 people tested the foundation of the invention in comparison with each of the two comparative foundations. 0.10 g of each half-face foundation is applied. Example 2 (Invention) / Example 3 (Comparative): The foundation of Example 3 is less easy and less pleasant to apply. The film obtained on the skin after application of the foundation of Example 3, is more present, more tacky, less comfortable than that of Example 2.

Example 2 (Invention) / Example 4 (Comparative): The foundation of Example 4 is less easy and less pleasant to apply. In particular, it slips less and dries faster during application.

The foundation of the invention (Example 2) is the one that is the most popular of the three in terms of comfort to the application.

All of these results show that the combination of linear alkane (s) volatile (s) according to the invention with a block ethylenic copolymer makes it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions, in particular in the form of emulsions E / H foundation type, with good comfort properties on application and hold after application.

EXAMPLE 5 W / O foundation containing n-dodecane% by weight Al PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxy stearate sold under 4.00 reference ARLACEL P 135 by the company UNIQEMA Isodecyl neopentanoate 1.00 n-dodecane sold under the reference Parafol C12 - 12.00 97 by the company Sasol A3 bentone gel sold under the reference Bentone 3.00 Gel ISD V by the company Elementis Isodecyl neopentanoate 3.00 Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 1'79 aluminum Iron oxide yellow coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.54 A4 aluminum oxide black iron oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.19 aluminum Titanium dioxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 7'48 aluminum Isododecane 9.40 A5 Poly (isobornyl methacrylate -co-acrylate 16.00 isobornyl-co-isobutyl-co-acrylic acid acrylate) with 50% active material in isododecane as prepared according to Example 1 above Silicon microsphere sold under the reference SB 5.50 700 by the company Miyoshi Kasei Perfume 0.30 Deionized water 27.50 Methyl paraben 0.20 PEG 20 1.70 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Phenoxy ethanol 0.70 Ethanol 5.00 TOTAL 100% by weight The composition of Example 5 is prepared according to the procedure described in the examples 2 to 4, wherein the mixture of n-undecane: n-tridecane is substituted with n-dodecane. A6 A7 B C5

Claims (10)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one liquid fatty phase and containing: (i) one or more volatile linear alkanes and (ii) at least one ethylenic block copolymer ( also called sequenced ethylenic polymer), containing at least a first block having a glass transition temperature (Tg) greater than or equal to 40 ° C and being derived in whole or in part from one or more first monomers, which are such that homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, and at least one second block having a glass transition temperature of 20 ° C or less and being derived in whole or in part from a or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a temperature of t vitreous transition less than or equal to 20 ° C, said first sequence and said second sequence being interconnected by a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first monomers constituting the first sequence and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second sequence , and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I greater than 2, in a weight ratio linear alkane (s) volatile (s) / ethylenic block copolymer greater than or equal to 1, preferably between 1 and 10. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of an emulsion, preferably a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O). 3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile linear alkane comprises from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile linear alkane is of plant origin. 5 10 15 20 25 30. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the volatile linear alkane is selected from n-nonane, n-undecane, ndodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and mixtures thereof. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least two distinct volatile linear alkanes, differing from each other by a carbon number n of at least 1, in particular differing from each other by a carbon number of 1. or 2. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising from 50 to 90% by weight, preferably from 55 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 75% by weight. by weight of volatile linear alkane in C n with n ranging from 9 to 15 - from 10 to 50% by weight, preferably from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight, of volatile linear alkane in Cn + x with x greater than or equal to 1, preferably x = 1 or x = 2, relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture. 8. Composition according to the preceding claim, comprising a mixture n-undecane: n-tridecane (C11 / C13) comprising - from 55 to 80% by weight, preferably from 60 to 75% by weight of volatile linear alkane in Cl 1 (n-undecane) - from 20 to 45% by weight, preferably from 24 to 40% by weight of volatile linear C13 alkane (n-tridecane) relative to the total weight of the alkanes in said mixture. 9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 comprising n-dodecane, n-tetradecane or mixtures thereof. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 1% to 90% by weight, in particular from 5% to 60% by weight, and more particularly from 10% to 40% by weight of alkane (s). linear (s) volatile (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the at least one first monomer of the block copolymer, which is such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, are chosen from: methacrylates of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR1 in which R1 represents a linear or branched, unsubstituted alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group; acrylates of formula CH 2 CHCH-OOOR 2 in which R 2 represents a C 4 to C 12 cycloalkyl group, the (meth) acrylamides of formula: ## STR1 ## in which R 1 and R 8, which are identical or different, each represent a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C12 alkyl group, or R1 represents H and R8 represents a 1,1-dimethyl-3-oxobutyl group, and R 'denotes H or methyl. and in that the second monomer or monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C., are chosen from: acrylates of formula CH 2 = CHCOOR 3, R3 represents a linear or branched C1-C12 unsubstituted alkyl group, with the exception of the tert-butyl group, in which one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N, S are optionally intercalated; methacrylates of formula CH 2 = C (CH 3) -COOR 4, R 4 representing a linear or branched C 6 to C 12 unsubstituted alkyl group in which one or more heteroatoms chosen from O, N and S are optionally intercalated; ; vinyl esters of formula R 5 -CO-O-CH =CH 2 where R 5 represents a linear or branched C 4 to C 12 alkyl group; vinyl alcohol and C4 to C12 alcohol ethers; C4 to C12 N-alkyl acrylamides, such as N-octylacrylamide; and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said block copolymer is such that the first block is obtained from at least one acrylate monomer of formula CH 2 CHCH-COOR 2 in which R 2 represents a cycloalkyl group C4 to C12 and at least one methacrylate monomer of formula CH2 = C (CH3) -COOR'2 wherein R'2 represents a C4 to C12 cycloalkyl group, and the second sequence is obtained from at least a second monomer such as the homopolymer obtained has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20 ° C, and an additional monomer of acrylic acid type. 13. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein R2 and R'2 represent independently or simultaneously an isobornyl group. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said copolymer comprises from 50 to 80% by weight methacrylate / isobornyl acrylate, from 10 to 30% by weight isobutyl acrylate and from 2 to 10% by weight. % by weight of acrylic acid. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 10% by weight of active ingredient of block copolymer relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a foundation. 17. A cosmetic process for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising at least the application on said materials of at least one layer of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 16. 50 20 25