FR2942406A1 - MAKE-UP METHOD AND COSMETIC CLEANSING COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a process for removing make-up from keratin materials made up with a thermally stable photochromic composition which can be detected by irradiation at at least one wavelength λ, in which, during or after makeup removal, at least one wavelength is applied. optical agent forming screen at least the wavelength λ.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic treatments for skin and other human keratin materials, in particular the lips and superficial body growths. for example, nails and hair. The invention relates more particularly to the removal of make-up of keratin materials made up of a thermally stable photochromic composition. Background Makeup is usually achieved by the use of colored matter that is deposited on the body or face.

The final result depends not only on the quality of the products used. in particular ingredients and formulation techniques used. but also the dexterity of the user. In the hope of gaining dexterity and thus improve the makeup result. some users take training. Others do not, considering themselves unfit for it or having no time to devote to it. It has been discovered that it is possible to obtain satisfactory makeup results thanks to the light-sensitive makeup. The rendering accuracy exceeds what users usually get with conventional makeup. without requiring any special dexterity or training.

In addition, the light-sensitive makeup can make it possible to obtain color results that go beyond the classic meaning of make-up. This can be any pattern imitating a conventional makeup pattern or a text, a logo, ... The light-sensitive makeup is based on the use of at least one thermally stable photochromic composition capable of being revealed by light radiation. for example UV radiation. and maintain a change in appearance related to the irradiation for at least one hour. In order to carry out the light-sensitive makeup, at least one thermally stable photochromic composition is deposited on the zone to be treated in the form of at least one layer.

At the moment when the thermally stable photochromic composition is applied, it is in the undisclosed state and can be colored or colorless. according to the ingredients used.

Irradiation of the thermally stable photochromic composition layer can be carried out selectively by irradiating it in a non-uniform manner. Thus, some regions may not be revealed and others are and / or regions are revealed to varying degrees, leading to different color intensities.

The light energy used remains relatively low, and does not lead to tanning of the skin. A light-sensitive makeup process is described in patent EP 938 887 and uses thermally stable photochromic agents which are applied to the skin. This patent describes a photochromic agent chosen from diarylethenes and fulgides.

It is required, like any makeup coating, that the light-sensitive makeup can be removed. This condition is important and almost obligatory because makeup users like to remove makeup to find the skin not made up, especially in the evening. In addition, users appreciate being able to reapply makeup on the skin, different from the first. If traces of the first were maintained, the realization of the second would be made problematic. A problem that can occur with the light-sensitive makeup is a phenomenon of staining of the skin. Indeed, during the make-up removal, the user can leave traces of thermally stable photochromic composition not revealed. However, these traces may be brought to reveal later, for example after a few hours spent in the ambient light. At this time, it may be difficult for the user to carry out a makeup removal supplement. SUMMARY The invention aims to remedy this problem and it achieves it by means of a makeup remover process of keratinous materials masked with a thermally stable photochromic composition which can be detected by irradiation at at least one wavelength λ, in which during or after makeup removal, at least one screening optical agent is applied at least at the wavelength λ. The optical agent can be reapplied several times in succession, if necessary. The optical agent belongs to a second composition which may be a makeup-removing composition.

By forming a screen at the wavelength λ 2, it should be understood that the optical agent attenuates by at least a factor 2 the radiation of wavelength λ, the measurement being carried out as detailed further on by means of FIG. an apparatus capable of measuring the absorption spectrum by restricting the irradiation light to a wavelength zone centered around ~. The application during and better after, the makeup removal of the optical agent prevents the traces of photochromic agent to be revealed and decreases the risk of staining keratin materials or clothing. The keratin materials may not be washed within one hour after the application of the optical agent. When later the user proceeds to a wash, the traces of unverified photochromic agent and protected by the optical agent can be eliminated. Another advantage of the invention is that it is avoided, when a new light-sensitive makeup film is made, that certain undisclosed parts of the previous light-sensitive makeup look-up and still present are revealed during the exposure to the radiation used for producing the novel light-sensitive. The optical agent can be applied after makeup removal. The optical agent can also be used in the formulation of a make-up remover composition used for makeup removal.

The wavelength 2 may belong to the UV spectrum (280 nm to 400 nm) and / or near UV, in particular to the range from 320 nm to 440 nm. The invention further relates, according to another of its aspects. a makeup removing composition, comprising: a surfactant. an optical agent forming a screen with at least one wavelength in the UV or near UV spectrum, in particular in the range from 320 nm to 440 nm. This optical agent can be a UV filter. The mass content of optical agent, especially UV filter. may be greater than or equal to 0.2%, preferably greater than 0.5%. relative to the total weight of the composition. The makeup-removing composition may have a filtering capacity greater than or equal to 2. more preferably 5 or 10, with respect to solar UV radiation.

The surfactant may be in a mass content greater than or equal to 1%. The invention is furthermore, according to another of its aspects, an assembly comprising, within the same packaging: a first thermally stable photochromic composition for producing a light-sensitive makeup, detectable under irradiation at least one wavelength 2, and - a second composition capable of removing the first and having an optical agent forming screen at wavelength 2., In particular a sunscreen. The filtering power F vis-à-vis the solar radiation of the second composition may be greater than or equal to 2, better 5 or 10. The assembly may further advantageously comprise a light source emitting at least at the wavelength to reveal possible traces of thermally stable photochromic composition. The thermally stable photochromic composition may comprise, as detailed below, a thermally stable photochromic agent. The latter can be chosen from diarylethenes and fulgides. The second composition may include a surfactant, facilitating makeup removal. It can take the form of a shampoo, a conditioner. a care cream, a shower gel or a makeup remover. It may contain fatty substances and be in the form of a cream, a fluid emulsion, a microemulsion, a nanoemulsion or a gel emulsion. Thermally stable photochromic composition According to the invention, the light-sensitive makeup is produced by means of a thermally stable photochromic composition that is suitable.

The thermally stable photochromic composition according to the invention contains one or more thermally stable photochromic agents that are suitable for producing a light-sensitive makeup, that is to say that they change their appearance under the effect of a light radiation. The thermally stable photochromic agent (s) used in the invention may be thermally stable photochromic agents or irreversible photochromic agents. that is to say that once the change of appearance obtained, it remains permanent.

According to the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) used. the light-sensitive makeup can be carried out by progressively revealing this or these thermally stable photochromic agents by exposure to a suitable radiation, for example UV and / or near-UV radiation. or starting from a thermally stable photochromic composition comprising one or more thermally stable photochromic agents in the already-revealed state which is brought into an undisclosed state by applying a suitable radiation, for example visible off near UV. The light-sensitive makeup can implement at a time. for example successively or alternatively, a revelation of one or more thermally stable photochromic agents and an erasure of one or more thermally stable photochromic agents, so as to obtain precisely the desired makeup result. The thermally stable photochromic composition can be contained with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the non-disclosed state in a conditioning device prior to application to the keratin materials. In that case. the thermally stable photochromic composition can be applied to the keratin materials with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the undisclosed state. then the radiation allowing to pass this or these photochromic agents in the revealed state is applied.

Alternatively, the photochromic composition is applied to the keratin materials with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the non-revealed state, then these are brought into a revealed state, and then radiation is applied selectively to pass or the thermally stable photochromic agents, for example in a localized manner, in the non-disclosed state, so as to create one or more patterns, for example, and / or obtain the desired color. In another variant, the thermally stable photochromic composition is contained in the conditioning device with thermally stable photochromic agents in the exposed state. The thermally stable photochromic composition is then applied with the thermally stable photochromic agent (s) in the disclosed state, and these are brought into a selectively undisclosed state. so as to form one or more patterns and / or obtain the desired color.

When it is sought to use a thermally stable photochromic composition whose thermally stable photochromic agent (s) are in the already-revealed state when the composition is applied to keratinous materials, it is possible to use a conditioning device comprising a light source enabling to expose the thermally stable photochromic composition, for example within the enclosure of the vessel containing it or at a dispensing orifice or an application member, to a light radiation of wavelength adapted to reveal the thermally stable photochromic agent (s). The thermally stable photochromic composition may comprise a thermally stable photochromic agent which makes it possible, for example, to generate a color in the revealed state, for example a colorless state in the unexposed state, or a mixture of thermally stable photochromic agents producing, in the state, revealed respective different colors having, in the undisclosed state, another color or being colorless. For example, it is possible to use a thermally stable photochromic composition comprising a mixture of thermally stable photochromic agents respectively yellow, blue and magenta, with, for example, a larger proportion of thermally stable photochromic agent whose color is yellow in the revealed state. the proportions being for example chosen to obtain, when all the thermally stable photochromic agents are in the revealed state, a hue close to that of the skin. In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, a mixture of thermally stable photochromic agents respectively yellow, magenta and blue is used. in relative proportions of 50%, 35% and 15% approximately. When the thermally stable photochromic composition comprises a plurality of thermally stable photochromic agents, thermally stable photochromic agents can be used which are detectable by exposure to different respective dominant wavelength radiations, so that by selecting the length of radiation wave to which the thermally stable photochromic composition is exposed. we can reveal one color rather than another. It is also possible to use thermally stable photochromic agents in a thermally stable photochromic composition which are erasable when exposed to respective dominant wavelengths, thereby making it possible to choose the characteristics of the light used to erase the thermally photochromic composition. stable. to selectively erase one color rather than another. Measurement of the thermal stability of a thermally stable photochromic agent

The test for determining whether a photochromic agent is thermally stable is as follows. The agent to be tested, initially of color E, is subjected; in the undisclosed state. at irradiation with UV radiation for 1 minute at 1 J / cm 2, then its final color Ef is determined using a spectrocolorimeter, for example that of MINOLTA CM 2002 (d / 8, SCI, D65, 2 observer); we obtain a color difference AE, f =. In the CIE space Lalo, which corresponds to the maximum of revelation. This compound is then left in complete darkness for 60 minutes at 25 ° C., and its Er color is determined again according to the above method. When the new value of ΔE is at least equal to 50% of the value of Mu corresponding to the revelation maximum, the compound is considered to be thermally stable. Preferably, the thermally stable photochromic agent is chosen so that once revealed, the makeup obtained can be kept visually more than one hour, better more than four hours. The thermally stable photochromic composition may be free of thermally reversible photochromic compounds, such as doped titanium oxide. spiropyrans, spirooxazines or chromenes, unless certain forms of these compounds fall within the definition of thermally stable photochromic agents. The thermally stable photochromic photochromic agent or agents according to the invention are advantageously such that under a first irradiation I ~. this or these agents are revealed by dyeing, starting from a substantially colorless or slightly colored state. and under a second irradiation 12 different from the first, this or these agents become substantially colorless or slightly colored. Irradiation In exemplary embodiments of the invention, UV irradiation (290 nm to 400 nm), in particular UVA (320 to 400 nm) and / or UVB radiation, is preferable in the near UV range (400 to 440 nm). ), while the irradiation h is a radiation in the visible, for example white light.

Thermally stable photochromic agents Among the photochromic agents that can be used, the compounds belonging to the family of diarylethenes and those belonging to the family of fulgids are preferred. this list is not however limiting. Those skilled in the art can refer to patent EP 938 887 which describes examples of thermally stable photochromic agents. The diarylethenes can be represented by the following formula (I): A B in which the radicals R 1 and R 2 are always in "cis" relation with respect to the double bond.

These radicals R1 and R2 may be, independently of one another, chosen from C1-C16 alkyl radicals, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated, or nitrile radicals. There may be mentioned in particular the compounds of the following formula:

CN CN They can also form a ring with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, optionally fluorinated or perfluorinated, especially according to the following formula: CFz CFzCF2 LAB or form a ring with 5 carbon atoms of anhydride, and in particular according to the following formula: Wherein X may be an oxygen atom or an -NR3 radical, with R representing a C2-C16 alkyl and / or hydroxyalkyl radical. The radicals A and B may be equal or different and may in particular represent a 5-atom ring or a 5 and 6-membered bicycle, according to the following structures: R 12 R 12 in which: X and Y may be equal or different, and can represent an oxygen atom. of sulfur. an oxidized form of sulfur. nitrogen or selenium, - Z and W may be equal or different, and may represent a carbon or nitrogen atom, - the radicals R3 to R12 may be equal or different, and may represent a hydrogen. a linear or branched C1-C16 alkyl or alkoxy group. a halogen. a linear or branched C1-C4 fluorinated or perfluorinated group, a carboxylic group, a C 1 -C 16 alkylcarboxylic group, a C 1 -C 16 mono- or dialkylamino group; a nitrile group; a phenyl group. naphthalene or a heterocycle (pyridine, quinoloin, thiophene) can be substituted on these radicals.

However, groups A and B must not both be equal to an indole type structure as follows: R12

Groups A and B can be separated from the ring by one or two double bonds.

There must always be on the ortho positions of the junction, between the double bond and the radicals A and B, a group other than hydrogen, for example CH3, CN or CO2Et, that is to say that the groups R3 or R5, R4, R7 and R8 must be different from the hydrogen meaning. By way of example, mention may be made of the following compound which can pass from colorless to red in the following manner. after irradiation at 404-436 nm (back to 546-578 nm): 25 CN CN s s

An example of diarylethene is that. blue color in the disclosed state, marketed under the commercial reference: DAE-MP by Yamada Chemical (Japan). with a chemical name and formula: 1,2bis (2-methyl-5-phenyl-3-thienyl) -3,34,4,5,5-hexafluorocyclopentene Another example of diarylethene is that of a yellow color in the form of the formula: sold under the trade reference: DAE-2BT by YAMADA CHEMICALS (Japan) and chemical name: 1.2-Bis (3-methylbenzo (b) thiphen-2-yl) perfluorocyclopentene. The fulgides can be represented by the following formula: embedded image group A has the same meaning as above. . groups R13 to R1; may be equal or different, and may be a linear or branched C1-C16 alkyl group, or the groups R13 and R14 may form a ring of 3 to 12 carbon atoms such as cyclopropane or adamantylene. Other thermally stable photochromic agents These photochromic compounds are changing appearance compounds. for example, passing from a colorless or slightly colored form to a colored form, by a mechanism controlled by a light irradiation. The mechanism can be direct. in the sense that light changes appearance. for example, passes from the colorless form to the colored form. This is for example the case of compounds carrying a function called photodegradable or photodetachable (English photorelease). Preferably, compounds whose photodegradable or photodetachable function is inert with respect to keratin materials are used. Preferably. a compound whose photodegradable or photodetachable function is immobilized or carried by a polymer or other solid or mass structure. For example, the 3-5dimethoxybenzoyl function and the colored products as described in the article can be used: McCoy P, et al., J. Am. Chem. Soc., 2007, 129, 9572 The aforementioned mechanism can also be indirect, in the sense that the light passes the compound, for example initially colorless, in another form, then a third action transforms this compound thus colorless modified in a form of different appearance, for example colored. The mechanism is also indirect when a third action acts differently on the non-light-modified compound and on the modified compound, and that for example the unmodified compound is transformed and changes in appearance, for example becomes colored. while the modified compound retains its appearance. by colorless couple. For example, the principle of diazotype can be used. which involves a diazonium salt compound and another aromatic compound capable of reacting by coupling reaction. Irradiation destroys the diazonium salt (nitrogen release). The diazonium compound which has not been irradiated then reacts with a simple jump of pH (in the presence of ammonia for example) with the coupler to give an azo compound. In that case. unstained diazonium salt compounds, such as, for example, an aromatic having the diazonium function but not bearing on the amine or hydroxyl functional cycle, will be chosen. A single aromatic amine can be used as a coupler such as an aniline or phenol derivative.

It is then the non-irradiated parts which are revealed, according to the reaction: OH or NRR 'OH or NRR' N. ~ N + RI +1/2 HZ R1 The photochromic agent (s) used can become thermally stable as soon as they are revealed or only after a specific action has been taken. for example the bringing into contact with chemical compounds conferring the desired thermal stability. The thermally stable photochromic composition can contain, by weight, a total of 0.001 to 20% of photochromic agent (s). in particular thermally stable photochromic agent (s).

The photochromic composition may additionally contain any solvent suitable for application in cosmetics. and in particular chosen from those mentioned in patent EP 938 887. The composition may comprise the ingredients listed in paragraphs [0029] to [0041] of EP 0 938 887 A1, the list of which is hereby incorporated by reference.30 Thermally stable photochromic composition at reduced sensitivity The thermally stable photochromic composition may include at least one optical agent reducing its sensitivity to UV or near UV radiation. The thermally stable photochromic composition may in particular comprise one or more optical agents in an amount sufficient for its filtering power F, as defined below, to be greater than or equal to 2, or even 5, 10. 15 or 20. filtering power A protocol similar to that used to determine the SPF is used. the difference is that the erythema response of the skin is not taken into account.

The composition of which it is desired to know the filtering power at the rate of 1.2 mg / cm 2 is applied to a sandblasted PMMA plate (without UV filter) of 5 cm by 5 cm, of 3 mm thickness, of roughness 4.5. m, from EUROPLAST company. The plates are pre-treated with a deposit of 10 + lmg of 14.5B petrolatum. The composition can be deposited in 14 product pads and the spreading takes place for 20 s on the finger by zigzagging by turning the plate a quarter turn every 5 sec. After plating, there remains 0.6 mg / cm 2 of product. 20 mm is expected for drying and then a new spreading is performed. A spectroradiometer (for example integrating sphere of the Labsphere UV mark transmittance analyzer) is used, which measures the diffuse transmittance from 290mm to 400mm. Each transmission value T (?) Is recorded. T () \.) Is the ratio. for an irradiation of a given wavelength k, light energy transmitted on the incident light energy is measured 5 times per plate (by moving the plates) and these measurements are averaged. We do the operation on 5 plates. The averages of the averages are measured.

The filtering power F with respect to solar UV radiation (290 to 400 nm) is given by the ratio of the two following integrals: c :: 12d2 f9O nm 1 (2) T (2) where 1 (X) is a function representing the occurrence of each wavelength of the solar spectrum. I (X) is the same as that used for the calculation of SPF in vitro in the publication F = COLIPA GUIDELINES Edition of 2007 A METHOI) FOR THE IN VITRO DETERMINATION OF UVA PROTECTION PROVIDED BY SUNSCREEN PRODUCTS. If F = 1. then the composition is not filtering. To make screen the radiation of wavelength. it should be understood that the optical agent attenuates by at least one attenuation factor of 2 the radiation of wavelength X. The measurement being carried out by means of an apparatus able to measure the absorption spectrum by restricting the irradiation light at a zone of length r1 + ground (2) d / l of wave. 10 nm. The ratio F = X00 with 1 (2) and T (2) such that 2-1oL 1 (.1) TO) d2 defined above gives the attenuation factor at the wavelength X.

The thermally stable photochromic composition may have at least one wavelength range P in a range X1 to X2 where the irradiation is less filtered, the filtering power in this range being on average Fn _, 2 with F / F2_1.2 > 2, preferably F / F? 1.2.2> 5. The width of the range P may be less than 80 nm. and preferably at 40 nm.

Fi, 1_2,2 is defined by: I (2) d.l I (.1) T (il) d / 1 and measured as described above, replacing terminals 290 and 400 by X1 and X2. with X> X1. The thermally stable photochromic composition can comprise. if necessary, an evolutionary dye. for example a dye whose color is revealed over time and if possible slowly. for example DHA or polyphenols, able to stain gradually in contact with air. The thermally stable photochromic composition comprises, for example, a dye which takes longer than 1/2 h to be 90%. The interest of such a dye may be to develop a filtering power once the light-sensitive makeup done. for example to delay the degradation of the light-sensitive makeup patterns under the effect of ambient lighting.

Second layer acting as an activator of an optical agent present in the first layer In an exemplary implementation of the invention, a first layer is constituted by the thermally stable photochromic composition and contains an optical agent in a form partially or totally disabled or in the precursor state. This deactivated or precursor form agent does not yet have sufficient activity to protect the light-sensitive makeup result. The application of a second layer allows after the light-sensitive makeup. activating the deactivated optical agent or bringing the precursor into its effective optical form to form a shield to the developing radiation of the thermally stable photochromic composition. For example, the optical agent may, in a precursor form in one of the layers. be a dye of the class of porphyrins, made more active by the presence in the other layer of a salt in solution, for example a salt of zinc, iron or magnesium.

Galenic Forms The thermally stable photochromic composition can occur according to the applications and the nature of its constituents in various galenic forms. The thermally stable photochromic composition according to the invention contains an acceptable cosmetic medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as skin, nails, hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, mucous membranes and mucous membranes. mucosae, and any other skin area of the body and face. Said medium may comprise or be in the form of, in particular, a suspension. a dispersion. a solution in a solvent or hydroalcoholic medium, optionally thickened or even gelled; an oil-in-water, water-in-oil, or multiple emulsion; a gel or a mousse; an emulsified gel; a spray; a loose powder, compact or cast; an anhydrous paste; a movie. among others. Treated areas All body parts usually made up can receive a light-sensitive makeup according to the invention, for example nails, eyelashes, hair, skin, and in particular that of the face. for example, cheeks, forehead, eye area or lips, neck, bust or legs.

You can also treat rarely made up body parts such as ears, hands or teeth. These areas have complex geometries. which does not facilitate the precise application of conventional makeup products. The light-sensitive makeup can make it possible to obtain aesthetic results, despite the complexity of the geometries. The light-sensitive makeup can be used to camouflage a skin defect. The light-sensitive makeup may optionally include a pattern of a garment or accessory worn by the user, for example a pattern on a jewel. a handbag, glasses, shoes, a piece of furniture, a PDA or a mobile phone. Where appropriate, the sale of such clothing or accessories may be accompanied by the provision of a file or an internet link making it possible to carry out a light-sensitive makeup in accordance with the accessory or the garment. The file or the internet link can provide access to the data necessary for the production of an image that has been designed or selected to marry harmoniously with the garment or accessory. For example. it takes back all or part of the reasons or completes it. DESCRIPTION OF THE FIGURES FIG. 1 schematically and partially shows an example of a system for making a light-sensitive makeup system according to the invention. FIG. 2 illustrates the maintenance of the zone to be treated during the light irradiation. Figure 2A illustrates the formation of a pattern within a pixelated image. FIGS. 3 to 6 are diagrammatic and partial views of alternative embodiments of the irradiator; FIGS. 7 to 10 and 10A illustrate different examples of addressable matrix imagers according to several technologies; FIGS. 11 to 13 illustrate examples; of light-sensitive makeup. FIGS. 14a to 14e and 15a to 15e illustrate examples of progression of the light-sensitive makeup. and - Figure 16 shows an example of a packaging device for revealing the composition before its application.

Modes of Application The or each composition that is useful for the implementation of the invention may be applied in pulverulent, fluid, spray or film form. The fluid can have different rheologies. It may be for example a product block spreading during the friction on the keratin materials or a liquid. The thermally stable or photoprotective photochromic composition layer, and preferably the photoprotective composition layer, may be applied in the form of a dry or almost dry powder. The or each composition may optionally be in the form of a preformed film. Preferably, in the case of a multilayer application, the second layer is preferably applied without damaging the previously applied first layer. For this purpose, the spray application of the composition for forming the second layer may be preferred.

The application can still be done using a printer, inkjet for example, through a device brought into contact with the area to be treated, and possibly moved on it. In the case where one or more layers are sprayed, any spraying technique is usable, for example propellant, airbrush or electrostatic or piezoelectric spraying. The application can still be made by transfer, thanks to a support sheet bearing at least one of the compositions, or even the different layers to be formed. The transfer can be done by pressure, heat and / or with the aid of a solvent, deposited on the support sheet and / or the keratin materials to be treated according to the invention. The application can be done manually or automatically, using a manipulator arm for example. The application of each layer can be done after drying of the possible layer which precedes it. The application can be done using applicators. optionally disposable, comprising an applicator member responsible for the composition to be applied.

The application of the compositions can be done at a point of sale, in an aesthetic salon, or at home, among other places.

Each composition can be packaged before use in any suitable container. The application of the compositions, and in particular of the thermally stable photochromic composition, can be carried out after verification that the ambient light does not have an intensity detrimental to the quality of the light-sensitive makeup. The verification can be carried out by means of a warning device alerting the user if the ambient light contains UV radiation or near UV too strong, for example fluence greater than or equal to 0.1 or 0.5 mW / cm 2, the threshold can be adjustable if necessary. Such a device may be autonomous or integrated with a device for packaging or applying the thermally stable photochromic composition. even to a device for packaging or applying a photoprotective composition. The information delivered by the warning device may also be useful, if necessary, for selecting a thermally stable photochromic composition. photoprotective and / or serving as a base layer among many, depending on the level of UV radiation. As discussed above, the thermally stable photochromic composition can. According to the case. be applied to the fully revealed or undisclosed state. The thermally stable photochromic composition and the one intended to form the coating layer or the base layer or the photoprotective layer may be in various forms. for example creams, gels, liquids. in the form of compositions to be spread by hand, or by means of an applicator, for example ball. The application can be made by moving a block of composition in contact with keratin materials, such as a stick of lipstick for example. The composition can also be applied by spraying using an aerosol can, a pump bottle or an electrostatic, piezoelectric or airbrush spraying device. The composition may be a dry product, such as a powder, which can be applied with a brush or a brush if necessary. When the photochromic composition is intended to be applied in the revealed state, it may be contained in a packaging and application device as illustrated in FIG. 16. comprising a container 1000 containing the composition, a light source 1010 emitting for example in the UV, to reveal the composition, and an application means, for example an applicator brush 1020.

System for light-sensitive makeup The light-sensitive makeup system may be produced using a makeup-softening system 1 comprising, as illustrated schematically in FIG. 1, an irradiator 3 comprising at least one light source 2. The imager may. According to the case. to serve to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition, for example by passing the at least one photochromic agent contained therein from an undisclosed state to the disclosed state and / or serving to clear the photochromic agent (s) contained in the photochromic composition thermally stable, by passing them from a revealed state to an undisclosed state. When the composition is initially in the undisclosed state. the irradiator may for example emit in the UV or near UV when the thermally stable photochromic composition is detectable by UV radiation or in the near UV. The image can be defined by a mask or a negative disposed on the path of light to the area to be treated. possibly in contact with the area to be treated.

The irradiator preferably comprises one or more imagers 4 making it possible to form at least one image remotely over the zone to be treated Z. The imager (s) may, in a simplified version, use a mask or a negative and a projection optic over the area to be treated. The negative can be a UV negative. allowing the formation of an image in UV light or near UV.

The source 2 may comprise any type of light element, for example incandescent lamp, halogen lamp, discharge lamp and / or electroluminescent element. in particular one or more LEDs, OLEDs or other electroluminescent technologies. The irradiator 3 may include, as will be detailed later. several sources to emit on the one hand UV or near UV and on the other hand in the visible. especially out of the near UV. Advantageously, the irradiator comprising the light source (s) and the at least one imager may emit selectively in the UV or the near UV and the visible range. The passage from an image projection in visible light to an image projection in UV light can be done by a source change. thanks for example to a mobile mirror, the use of a semi-transparent surface, the addition or removal of a filter and / or the use of a doubler or frequency tripler.

The use of visible light can allow, as will be detailed hereinafter, to see the projected image on the area to be treated before achieving the revelation and / or to regress the light-sensitive makeup of an area already revealed at least partially . when the photochromic agent or agents allow it.

The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may comprise, as illustrated in FIG. 1, a calculator 10, which may be associated with a user interface 11, comprising for example a keyboard, a mouse. a touch screen, a voice recognition engine, a graphics tablet. a joystick and / or a touch pad, this list is not limiting. The computer 10 may include a microcomputer and, more generally. any means of calculation, analog and / or digital, made using, for example, microcontrollers, microprocessors and / or programmable logic networks. The computer 10 can be made in the form of one or more devices and in the case of the use of an electronic imager, the latter can if necessary carry out all the calculations or a part thereof. The computer 10 may also be associated with a display means 12 which is for example a color screen, for example of the LCD, plasma type. OLED or cathodic. possibly tactile. This visualization means 12 can be used for. as detailed in the following, display the treated area being processed. allow to control the treatment and / or display a simulation. The computer 10 may also be associated with a data storage means 13, for example a hard disk, magnetic tape, optical disk and / or flash memory, the data storage means being able to be integrated into the computer 10, to the irradiator 3 and / or at least partially deported within an external data storage system. The computer 10 may be associated with a network interface 14 which may allow, for example, to download useful data to the light-sensitive makeup or to transmit to third parties or to a server data concerning a light-sensitive makeup in progress or carried out. The computer 10 may advantageously control, where appropriate, the source or sources producing the light used to form the image, so that the image is formed with a predefined illuminant. The imager is advantageously an addressable matrix electronic imager. as described below. which the computer can address data to cause the projection on the Z area to process a predefined image.

The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be provided with at least one optical and / or electronic system making it possible to focus the image, manually or automatically, and advantageously means making it possible to avoid the movements. To immobilize the zone being treated relative to the irradiator, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may include means for immobilizing the person. to avoid motion and fuzzy results. When the image is formed on a face, the system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to detect that the face is at rest, and to control the imager according to this detection. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup 1 may comprise a planar part or part of the body and this part may be pressed onto the zone to be treated. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may, alternatively or additionally. include a motion correction system, of the same type for example as those used to stabilize images in cameras or cameras. When the face is treated, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may comprise means 8 for immobilizing the person to be treated, in the form of a chin strap, as illustrated in FIG. 2. As a variant, the irradiator 3 is portable and can to attach to a frame worn by the person to be treated, to illuminate an area of the face for example. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup 1 may comprise an optical acquisition device 16 which may, in one embodiment of the invention. transmit data to the computer 10 so that the latter can propose a light-sensitive makeup and / or control the realization of it, as will be detailed below. The optical acquisition device 16 may advantageously have a line of sight substantially parallel to the projection direction of the image. The optical acquisition device may be monopixel or multipixel, and directly receive the light emitted by the imager or receive the light reflected by the Z zone to be treated. The optional optical acquisition device, the irradiator, the possible computer and the possible display screen may be made as separate elements or integrated in the same housing. The irradiator and the optical acquisition device may advantageously be integrated in the same housing or be made integral in displacement otherwise.

The display screen can be attached to the back of the case of the irradiator or integrated in the case. Where appropriate, the optical acquisition device comprises internal lighting means for close-up acquisition. The case of the irradiator can still be mobile and be applied to the skin for example, or be held by hand. In an exemplary implementation of the invention. the case of the irradiator can be placed, for example on a table. In this case, we can approach the face to put it on the case, leaning for example. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be provided with means for detecting the opening or closing of the eyes and / or the mouth, in order to stop or not to start the irradiation in the event of opening of the eyes and / or the mouth . The optical acquisition device 16 can provide an image which is analyzed for this purpose by the computer 10. When the image is formed on a face, the light-sensitive makeup system can be configured to identify the face and the imagery can be controlled according to at least this identification.

The system for processing light-sensitive makeup is advantageously designed to enable the user to evaluate, visually or otherwise, the evolution of the light-sensitive makeup. For this purpose, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may include a window allowing direct visualization of the treated zone during irradiation, this visualization possibly taking place through a UV filter. In order to leave room for direct visualization. the emission of light can be from a remote location and can be used to conduct the light and focus the light rays on the area to be treated, optical fibers or at least a mirror or a prism, for example. A light-sensitive makeup system is shown partially and schematically in FIG. 3, which comprises two imagers 4a and 4b, respectively emitting UV and visible lights, towards the zone Z to be treated. A window 403 is provided between these imagers 4a and 4b. to allow observation of the Z zone during treatment. The viewing zone can be further displaced by means of a mirror 404 or any other optical system, for example an optical fiber or a prism, as illustrated in FIG. 4.

In the presence of an optical acquisition device such as a video camera or a digital camera, the viewing of the treated area Z can be done on a screen that can be placed on the irradiator or be deported.

FIG. 5 illustrates the possibility of producing the irradiator 3 by offsetting, with the aid of mirrors 18, the light beam directed towards the zone Z to be treated. this may allow observation by the user of the zone Z treated through a window 20 of the irradiator.

FIG. 6 illustrates the possibility of producing the irradiator 3 with two light sources 2a and 2b emitting respectively in the UV and in the visible. The irradiator shown in FIG. 6 comprises a colored filter 302, for example green, placed in front of the source 2b, an adjustable collimating optics 303 and a movable mirror 304. The irradiator 3 makes it possible in this example to place a negative 308 on the optical path. The adjustable collimation optics 303 makes it possible to display the image of the negative at a certain distance from the optical output of the irradiator 3, for example about twenty centimeters. The irradiator 3 is provided with two switches 306 and 307. The first activates the sources 2a and 2b. The movable mirror 304 is arranged so that only the visible light irradiation is directed to the optical output for a given position of the second switch. The actuation of the latter moves the movable mirror, for example by operating a micromotor or an electromagnet, and the UV irradiation is then directed to the negative 308. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup advantageously comprises. as mentioned above. an addressable matrix electronic imager.

Addressable Matrix Electronic Imager An addressable matrix imager makes it possible to project a pixelated image whose resolution is for example greater than 10 by 10 pixels and preferentially greater than 10 by 100 pixels. When the imager is an addressable matrix electronic imager. the image formed on the area to be treated is formed of pixels that are on or off. possibly each according to a predefined gray level. By way of example, FIG. 2A shows a detail of FIG. 2, in which the light-sensitive makeup film P which is produced consists of an outline of the lips. Figure 2A shows the location of the different pixels of the projected image. only the pixels corresponding to the contour to be made having been lit. The revelation of the thermally stable photochromic composition is in correspondence with the state of the pixels.

The light emerging from the addressable matrix imager may be monochromatic or multichromatic, and preferably the addressable matrix imager is capable of selectively emitting on the one hand in the UV or the near UV and on the other hand in the visible off. the near UV, the light emitted in the visible may be white light or a colored light, possibly monochromatic. The calculator 10 can determine the digital image on the basis of which the electronic imager is controlled, in particular the gray level of each pixel. and possibly the dominant wavelength of the light at each pixel.

The addressable matrix imager can be realized on the basis of several technologies. It is possible to use the so-called Digital Light Proccessing (DLP) technology invented by TEXAS INSTRUMENTS, which uses a DMD (Digital Micromiror Device) chip composed of thousands of micromirrors that can be individually controlled in orientation under the effect of an electrical pulse. and can reflect or not according to their orientation an incident light beam to return or not to the optical output of the imager. The image to be projected is formed on the matrix of mirrors. The gray levels of each pixel (for example the number of 256 levels) can be controlled by acting on the duty cycle.

FIG. 7 represents an exemplary embodiment of an electronic imager 4 produced according to this technology, using a DMD chip referenced 111. This latter can be fixed on a plate 112 which can furthermore comprise a processor 113 for controlling the chip, as well as possibly a memory 114. In the illustrated example, the chip is represented on the same plate as the processor 113 and the memory 114, but these can be arranged otherwise. The imager 4 shown in FIG. 7 receives light from a source 2 which can be a source that can emit both in the UV and / or in the visible or a source that can emit selectively in the visible or in the light. UV. The source 2 may be a halogen lamp with emission in the UV and visible spectra, a discharge lamp or one or more LEDs capable of emitting for example in the UV and in white light or in a given color.

The imager 4 may comprise, as illustrated, optics 118, 119 and 120 respectively to condense the light, focus on the DMD chip and ensure focus on the area to be treated. When the source 2 has an emission spectrum both in the UV and in the visible. the imager 4 may comprise, as illustrated, a filter wheel 30, which intersects the light beam for example between the condensing optics 118 and the focusing optics 119. The chip receives, according to the position of the filter wheel 130, a light UV or visible light, which is then directed to the optical output. It is thus possible to form an image on the area to be treated selectively in visible light and / or in the UV.

The irradiator according to the variant of FIG. 8 uses several DMD chips fixed on a prism which divides the incident light coming from the source 2 into at least two beams having different dominant wavelengths, for example respectively in the UV or the near UV and in the visible. The light beams reflected by the DMD chips are projected to the area to be treated. By driving the DMD chip associated with the UV or near-UV beam and that associated with the visible light beam, it is possible to project on the zone to be treated a UV light. either a visible light, or possibly both at once, which can be useful when the revelation is relatively slow, in order to visually control the proper positioning of the light for the revelation. The irradiator can still use the so-called LCD technology. In the example of FIG. 9, the source 2 is directed on dichroic mirrors 125 which generate at least two light beams of different dominant wavelengths, one of these beams having for example a dominant wavelength in the UV or the near UV and the other in the visible. The beams are directed by mirrors 125 and 126 to screens 127 with an LCD matrix on which the image to be projected is formed, which produce monochrome images to a prism system 128, which allows the image to be returned by the intermediate projection optics 120 to the surface to be treated. Depending on the degree of opacity of the screens 127. the light emitted is a light in the visible or in the UV. The irradiator 3 illustrated in FIG. 10 comprises a screen 132 with an LCD matrix, and a source 2 which illuminates the screen 132. The image formed on the latter is projected, thanks to the projection optics 120, on the zone treat. The source 2 is for example capable of emitting selectively in the UV or in the visible. The screen 132 can also. alternatively, replace the negative 308 of the example of Figure 6.

The projection system can still be based on LCOS liquid crystal silicon technology. LCD technology is said to be transmissive since light passes through an LCD screen while DLP technology is called reflective. because the light is reflected by the micromirrors of the DMD chip. In LCOS technology. the mirrors of the DMD chips are replaced by a reflective surface covered with a layer of liquid crystals, which can be switched between an on state and a blocking state. By modulating the opening and closing frequency of the liquid crystals, the gray level of a pixel can be varied. The arrangements illustrated in FIGS. 7 and 8 can be used, for example. by replacing the DMD chips with LCOS chips.

Figure 10A shows an LCOS chip irradiator. A lens system 901 may be disposed between the source 2, for example a UV lamp. and a semitransparent mirror 903. This mirror reflects the light from the source to the chip 900. The latter reflects the light again to a focusing system 120. which projects the pixellated image on the area to be treated.

In general, the image delivered by the addressable matrix imager comprises an array of pixels whose gray levels are individually addressable. each gray level being for example coded on at least 4 bits, better 8 bits. The light associated with each pixel can also be coded, if necessary. The image to be projected can be supplied to the electronic imager as a VGA video signal. SVGA. composite, HDMI, SV] DE0, YCBCR, optical, among other standards, or as a computer image or video file, for example .jpeg..pd .ppt, ... On these images, when they are not monochrome , a preset color on the image in the file can control the level of UV or near UV .. for example. The electronic imager is advantageously designed to be able to change the nature of the emitted light without changing the image; for example, the pixels of the image retain their gray levels and only the emission spectrum of the source used upstream changes. This can make it possible to visualize an image on the zone to be treated and then to reveal it. simply by changing the emission spectrum of the source. The imager can be used to project visible light to selectively erase one or more photochromic agents and to make a light-sensitive makeup from a layer of thermally stable photochromic composition in the revealed state. In that case. the imager is for example a conventional video projector. Choosing the Projected Image Especially when using an addressable electronic imager. the system for processing light-sensitive makeup is preferably provided with means for choosing the projected image. This can be done through a choice in an image library. possibly with a scrolling of several images of this library and selection by the user of a displayed image. The images can be stored in digitized or photographic form, for example in the data storage means. The image library can be included in the light-sensitive makeup system or be downloadable.

In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, a custom-made image is used from the person intended to receive the light-sensitive makeup, or from a model such as a celebrity or a person of a given aesthetic, the images being able to come from people who have not been made up or made up. We can also use images from drawings, tables. sketches or caricatures to generate the projected image.

The calculator may have in memory or may load at least one pictorial model. in the form for example of line or color key, or even a single point or a series of lines, keys or points. The image formed can be determined automatically according to the acquired image. This can make it possible to adapt the projected image to the morphology and / or the color of the face. The calculator can. starting from the position of the captured face, correctly position the image intended to produce the light-sensitive makeup. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup can thus be used in a process comprising the steps of: acquiring at least one image of the zone to be made up by the subject. order the imager according to the image thus acquired.

The acquisition of the image is effected for example by means of the optical acquisition device 16, which may be adapted to capture all or part of the face, or any other area of the body treated. For example, to make a light-sensitive makeup on the upper eyelids. The following steps can be implemented: capturing the image of the face, deducing the eyelid area, the thermally stable photochromic composition having been applied to the eyelid zone, irradiating the pictorial model to be produced at the location even from the eyelid area; thus, the resulting light-sensitive makeup is formed at the right place. The irradiation at the location of the zone to be treated can be done by lighting only the corresponding pixels, in the case where the image is likely to cover in case of ignition of all the pixels a much larger area. In order to benefit from the best resolution. the treated area may concern for example at least 2/3 of the total number of pixels of the image. The calculator can also modify the shape of the pictorial model to adapt it to the shape of the face. Thus, for example, if one wishes to make a make-up of the lips. we can implement the following steps: capture the image of the face, deduce the area of the lips, compare the shape of the lips to the pictorial model to reproduce, 20 - modify the pictorial model so that it fits in the form lips. a thermally stable photochromic composition having been applied to the lips, irradiating them to produce the pictorial model thus modified. This method can also be applied to other areas of the body. Thus, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be endowed with the following four functions: capturing the image of the face or any other region of the body to be treated, stalling the positioning of the pictorial model to be made on the part of the face or body to receive it . and this by analyzing the image of the face or any other part to be treated. Optionally, modifying the shape of the pictorial model to adapt it to the shape of the face; controlling the projection of the image intended to produce the light-sensitive makeup.

The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may include means for acquiring the 3D shape of the face. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may comprise an optical acquisition device adapted to detect the relief, for example by projecting fringes. and / or adapted to detect gloss.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the pictorial model used is determined automatically. This choice can be made randomly or following a programmed logic, intended to optimize by rules the aesthetics of the face. to respect for example a logic of harmony of colors or a logic of natural harmony of the face. Thus, for example, for a face of red complexion, it is possible to achieve freckles. The choice can also be made following a symmetry restoration logic for faces with asymmetries and / or in a logic of shadows and lights. by which we can make more round a face too angular or vice versa. or correct unsightly or unnatural proportions.

In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup proposes several pictorial models, leaving the user free to select one. The expression of these propositions can be done graphically. for example by displaying on a screen. The pictorial model proposed may be superimposed on an image of the subject intended to receive the light-sensitive makeup, or the latter may be displayed on a screen describing the face by a diagram. Any interface allowing the user to select a pictorial model can be used. For example, the description of a pictorial model proposed to the user can be done verbally, by describing the actions that the system for processing light-sensitive makeup proposes to perform. The system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to automatically detect a skin defect on the area to be treated and the imager may be controlled according to the nature of the detected defect. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be provided with special recognition functions, for example to recognize defects, for example: - spots, black spots. pimples, wine stains. redness. - wrinkles, crevices. stretch marks, veins, - hollow or humped reliefs, such as scars, - asymmetries, - peeling, - matte skin or shiny skin, - hair. Defects can be detected by image analysis and / or relief. The image analysis can be a 3D image analysis. The image analysis may include color and / or gloss analysis. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may also be provided with functions making it possible to calculate or choose a pictorial model intended to limit the visibility of these defects. Among these pictorial models. those intended to blur certain parts detected as having defects, and those intended to redraw certain parts. especially in the case of scars or asymmetries. In another example of implementation of the invention, the user or a third party can define the pictorial model to achieve. Thus, the user or third party can send commands that will be interpreted by the system for processing light-sensitive makeup. These commands can be graphical and the system for processing light-sensitive makeup can comprise a human-machine interface of the touch screen type. The user sends the makeup orders by designating on the image of the face or on a face diagram the areas on which he wants to make a make-up line. The system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured to interpret the instructions of the user. adapt them to the topography of the face then realize the light-sensitive makeup. The commands can be descriptions, for example "filling the lip area in red" or being intuitive, for example "eyelid makeup". The system will then interpret, in a conventional way or specifically programmed, that it must adopt a pictorial model by default.

Commands can be programmed and programs can be customized. The one who chooses among the pictorial models proposed or who determines the pictorial models to realize can be the person who makes up himself, or another person. as a professional makeup artist. The choice or the elaboration of the pictorial models can be done in the same place as that where the light-sensitive make-up takes place, or at a distance. In the latter case, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be provided with a communication means making it possible to communicate the image of the zone to be treated, for example the network interface 14 mentioned above. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may optionally be provided with a means for capturing make-up from magazines or other supports and making them pictorial models that it can subsequently reproduce on the area to be treated. for example a scanner or an RFID chip reader, the chip containing the description of the make-up or an internet link allowing it to be downloaded. This chip may be contained in a packaging containing the composition (s) to be used for producing the light-sensitive makeup or be contained in an article of clothing or other accessory having a particular pattern. which can be reproduced by light-sensitive makeup. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup can be configured to scroll through all kinds of pictorial models, in the form of simulations, in order to allow a person to choose from among them the model to be produced. The system of light-sensitive makeup can offer the opportunity to quickly try all kinds of models, directly on the face. Thus, the person can realize, in real version, the adequacy of this or these models on it. These models can be images projected in visible light on the face. which do not reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition, or photomasks made with the thermally stable and erasable photochromic composition. for example by irradiation in visible light. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may advantageously have in memory in the storage means 13 several pre-recorded models and memorize the pictorial models that it has been able to produce. In this way, the user can use or exchange saved pictorial templates.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention, once a pictorial model adopted, the adaptation of the pictorial model to the topography of the person's face and the realization of the light-sensitive makeup by image projection are performed automatically. The time between the capture of the face and the realization of the image can be made relatively short, for example less than a second.

In another example of implementation of the invention. the person receiving the light-sensitive makeup or a third person can intervene during the course of the operation. In this case, the makeup may be slower than before. The system for processing the light-sensitive makeup may be configured so as to enable the person or the third person to visualize the progress of the light-sensitive makeup, for example on the screen 12, in order to slow down or stop its progress. The system for light-sensitive makeup may optionally recapture the face in order to repeat the adjustment and adaptation of the pictorial model to the face, thus eliminating the possible problems that could cause the movements of the person during the irradiation to reveal the composition thermally stable photochromic. Several successive partial photomasquillages can be carried out. Thus, it is possible to determine, as and when the light - sensitive makeup takes place, each pictorial model, to estimate with the eye its rendering. then choose the next pictorial model and so on, thus gradually building up the light-sensitive makeup. As mentioned above, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup can be configured to evaluate, by means of one or more specialized programs, the pictorial models most adapted to a face or a part of a face. So. the light-sensitive makeup can be done by producing a first pictorial model, then by evaluating a second time the face to deduce the new pictorial model to achieve, and so on. It is possible to treat one part of the face semi-automatically and another automatically. It is also possible to treat a part of the face automatically until a certain point, then to continue semi-automatically the light-sensitive makeup, or vice versa. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup can be configured to take an image. for example using the aforementioned optical acquisition device, possibly extract a portion corresponding to the area to be treated, and allow to rectify if necessary this image to improve the rendering once projected. The light-sensitive makeup system used is preferably configured to allow the user, from an image projected on the face or on any other area to be treated, to rectify its shape. for example by magnification. narrowing. in one or two dimensions. The changes can also be more complex. So. one can for example correct a part of the image, stretch a particular area. change the size of the features ... In this. we can use the tools usually present in software for making and retouching images, such as Photoshop * for example. The retouching of the image can be carried out, if necessary, thanks to a return of information by the optical acquisition device, the calculator can know the rendering of the projected image and modify it automatically until reaching the desired result, when performing a soft loop by the system of light-sensitive makeup.

Progressive realization of the light-sensitive makeup The light-sensitive makeup may implement the steps of: applying a thermally stable photochromic composition to an area to be treated. irradiating the zone with a light chosen to gradually reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition, respectively to gradually erase the thermally stable photochromic composition, interrupt and / or modify characteristics of the irradiation when the desired aspect is attained, this corresponding aspect for example to a partial revelation of the thermally stable photochromic composition, respectively a partial erasure of the thermally stable photochromic composition. It is thus easier to obtain metered intensity makeup results. During progressive illumination, the user and / or the light-sensitive makeup system can monitor the progress of the light-sensitive makeup and can stop its progress when the desired result is reached.

One can even proceed, if the thermally stable photochromic composition allows it. retouching to further refine the light-sensitive makeup, either at the time of the light-sensitive makeup, or later. The irradiation can be interrupted and then restarted at least once. The dominant wavelength and / or the intensity of the irradiation can be modified before the desired aspect is achieved. For example, by modifying the intensity of the irradiation, it is possible to influence the rate of revelation or erasure of the thermally stable photochromic composition. By acting on the dominant wavelength, it is possible to act on the energy of the irradiation and / or on the effect exerted on the photochromic agent (s).

The entire image can be processed progressively, but it is also possible to process the image portion by portion in a progressive manner, for example automatically. programmed or programmable.

The light-sensitive makeup can be used to create several patterns successively. At least one pattern having attained the desired appearance may cease to be irradiated while at least one other pattern is still irradiated. The patterns are for example freckles. that we can create successively.

Thus, a specific program can be executed to achieve freckles, as shown in Figure 13. The program can reveal the spots. through appropriate gradual irradiation, either from the center of the zone to the outside of the zone (FIGS. 13A to 13C), or from a sparse distribution to a dense distribution (FIGS. 14A to 14C), or from a distribution of small spots to a distribution of large spots, either randomly (not shown). The irradiation can be sufficiently weak not to bring about a significant revelation in the moment following its release. In order to allow a sufficiently slow revelation, the energy E of the irradiation during one second may be less than or equal to 0.5 Eo, better 0.2 Eo, where Eo is the energy required for one second to reveal 80% of the photochromic composition thermally stable. We can have E <0.2 Eo. It is believed that 80% of the thermally stable photochromic composition was revealed when the color difference AE with the undisclosed state is 80% of the maximum attainable color difference.

Similarly, when it comes to erasing, the energy E 'of the irradiation for one second may be less than or equal to 0.5 E'o, where E'o is the energy required for one second to erase at 80% the thermally stable photochromic composition. We can have E '<0.2 E'o. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be configured to analyze the color of the area to be treated. then the result of this analysis can be used to automatically control the irradiation. For example, the color can be analyzed after the application of the thermally stable photochromic composition and before the desired appearance is achieved. This can for example automatically stop the light-sensitive makeup when the desired appearance is achieved. The measurement of the color can be done for example by analyzing the color of the pixels of an image formed on the treated area. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup can be configured to perform an analysis of predefined regions of the image and the irradiation can be controlled by varying the intensity of the irradiation in different areas observed, depending on the color in the regions. corresponding. When irradiation is carried out with an addressable matrix imager. for this purpose it is possible to precisely control the irradiation into multiple pixels of the treated area. Irradiation can be constant or variable. In particular, it can be quite strong for a given time, said to be leveled, and then weakened for a refining phase. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup can be programmed to deliver the irradiation by saccades. For example. constant irradiation followed by a pause. for example of a duration less than or equal to 30s, and so on. The user can stop the process when he considers that he is satisfied. In the case where the user stops the irradiation himself and then starts again, the irradiation may be slow enough to allow the user to see the color evolve, the irradiation evolving for example at a speed less than or equal to at 3 E units per second in the CIE Lab space, for example about 2 E units per second. When the intensity of the irradiation is adjustable, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be provided with a control member to act on the speed and / or the amplitude of the decrease or increase of the irradiation. for example a button. sensor, joystick, voice-activated interface or control pad. allowing to act on the intensity of the irradiation, in particular upstream of the imager. According to examples of implementation of the invention, the user can stop or slow down the irradiation as desired and in order to reflect and / or observe the result. It can be provided that the irradiation can be done according to the implementation by the system of light-sensitive makeup of an irradiation program and that the user can either interrupt or pause the program running, or pass from one program to another. The program making it possible to define the evolution of the irradiation over time can be defined or parameterized by the user to adjust, for example, the rates of increase or decrease of the irradiation. Increasing or decreasing the intensity of the irradiation may not cause a change in the shape or extent of the image. Thus, it is possible to use for modulating the irradiation of electrical and / or optical systems acting on the luminous flux produced, for example at least one filter, diaphragm and / or polarizer, and / or an electric power converter for controlling the source. The intensity of the irradiation can also depend on the gray level of the pixels of the image. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be configured to automatically determine a progressive illumination program depending on the light-sensitive makeup to be performed. For example, if the light-sensitive makeup on a given area consists of producing a rather unsaturated color, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may propose and / or apply a program controlling a weak illumination. If the light-sensitive makeup on another area is to achieve an intense color. the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may propose and / or apply a program consisting in illuminating more strongly initially. then illuminate less strongly, to allow the user to adjust in detail the completion of the light-sensitive makeup. The illumination performed initially can be with a fluence at least twice that applied thereafter. To determine the intensity of irradiation, the light-sensitive makeup system can be based on a dose calculation to be applied to reach the final light-sensitive makeup and apply a rule to deduce the illumination program. For example, if it calculates that it will take a dose of X J. It will be able to quickly apply 80% of X (in one second for example) then to apply the last 20% at the rate of 5% per second. for example. As mentioned above, the light-sensitive makeup system may be provided with an optical acquisition device enabling it to measure the color of the skin or other keratin materials, either at the beginning of the irradiation or during the light-sensitive makeup process. He can use this information to calculate or modulate progressive illumination. For example, he can use this information to identify when he needs to slow down or stop the illumination.

The sensor (s) of the optical acquisition device may be monochrome or polychrome, with a monopixel or multipixel measurement location. Information representative of the progress of the light-sensitive makeup can be transmitted to the user in various ways, for example by displaying a value representative of the color of the light-sensitive makeup or a value representative of the degree of completion of the process, for example in percentage. There may also be display on the screen of a color representing the measured color.

BACKGROUND The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be used to progressively reduce the intensity of the light-sensitive makeup, to make disappear or to regress one or more portions of the light-sensitive makeup, thanks to an illumination enabling the photorespired agent (s) to be brought back into an undisclosed state. In this way, the user can go back, and better adjust the final rendering. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup is advantageously made in such a way that the user can stop backtracking whenever he wishes, restart the light-sensitive makeup, and so on. The regression of the light-sensitive makeup may be carried out for certain photochromic agents, for example chosen from dyarylethenes and fulgides, by replacing all or part of the UV illumination by a visible illumination, for example of white light. The light-sensitive makeup system is preferentially configured so that this visible illumination extends at least on the same surface as the UV illumination. When a thermally stable photochromic composition with multiple photorevolable agents When the thermally stable photochromic composition has a plurality of photoresponsive agents with maximum sensitivities at different respective wavelengths, one or more of these photochromic agents can be selectively revealed by playing on the wavelength. It is also possible to use a thermally stable photochromic composition with several different photochromic agents, in the already disclosed state, and being best erased at different respective wavelengths. If appropriate, these photochromic agents can be revealed by the same UV light, but have visible wiping rates that vary with wavelength, so that by choosing it one can focus on erasing one photochromic agent over another. As above, when the photochromic agents are detectable by UV light, they can show up at different speeds depending on the wavelength in the UV range, and by varying this length of time. UV wave we can favor the development of a photochromic agent compared to others.

Simulation of the evolution of the light-sensitive makeup In an exemplary implementation of the invention. the system for processing light-sensitive makeup is provided with, in addition to or instead of, a system for visualizing the evolution of the light-sensitive makeup, a system for simulating the evolution of the light-sensitive makeup. The user can then observe, before and / or during the light-sensitive makeup. this simulation, and rely on it to decide to slow down or stop the light-sensitive makeup. see to go back. The light-sensitive makeup system can be configured to simulate the light-sensitive makeup result after applying the thermally stable photochromic composition and before the desired appearance is achieved. The progress of the simulation can be linked to the progress of the irradiation on the area to be treated. it serves to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition or on the contrary to erase it. A simulation of the evolution of the appearance of the light-sensitive makeup can be displayed on a screen and / or projected on the treated area, when the irradiator used allows it. The simulation can be projected in a light that does not cause the thermally stable photochromic composition to be revelated or erased, at least over a short period of time. the time for the observer to decide on further treatment. Use of tools When the system of light-sensitive makeup includes an electronic imager. the latter can be controlled according to a tool manipulated by the user, the computer can change the projected image and / or intensity of irradiation as a function of a movement of the tool. The latter may include a portion to be positioned in front of or on the area to be treated or in front of or on a display screen of the area to be treated. The tool can also control the movement of a pointer on a display screen of the area to be treated or within the image formed on the area to be treated. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be configured to enable the user to control particular areas that he wants to process with progressive irradiation, and to use a visualization means for this purpose. which may comprise for example a touch screen by which the user can control. by pressing a particular region of the screen. the progression of the irradiation. Even more preferably, the touch screen is sensitive to the intensity of the pressure exerted by the user. The system for processing light-sensitive makeup can analyze the pressure exerted on the screen and translate this pressure into a light-sensitive makeup intensity, by controlling the intensity of the light and / or the duration of the irradiation on the corresponding region of the zone to be treated. Thus, for example, greater pressure on the touch screen will result in increased color intensity.

In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup can detect a tool placed on or in front of the touch screen. with which user can act on the light-sensitive makeup. For example, the user may have several tools each provided with an identification means, for example a barcode or an RFID chip. so that it can be identified by the light-sensitive makeup system. When the user takes a particular tool, it is recognized and each tool can be associated by the light-sensitive makeup system to a particular type of make-up. For example, the user has several tools corresponding to more or less thick makeup and / or color intensities greater or lesser. even different makeup colors. The user takes the tool he wants and can move it on the image of the visualization means to change the makeup. A simulation of the makeup may appear on the display screen and after possible validation by the user, the makeup appearing on the display means may be automatically performed by light-sensitive makeup by controlling the irradiator. Adjustment and / or modification of the content of the image In an exemplary implementation of the invention, a light-sensitive makeup layer is revealed with the same simulation image as that projected in visible light. For this, the system for processing light-sensitive makeup may be configured to send an image to the area to be treated, for example the face, representing the simulation, leaving the user the option of stalling this image on the face, or even modifying it. Then, once the image is correctly adjusted and defined, it sends to the same area, through the same optics, or through a parallel optics, an image that may differ from the previous one only in that it is formed with UV light or in the near UV. In particular, the mask, negative or addressable pixel matrix used to define the image may not have been modified during the change of illuminant from visible light to UV light. To do this, we can use a light-sensitive makeup system with a UV source and a visible source. with one or two imagers. If the image is obtained from a slide, the slide may be provided to allow an image to be made with the visible source and an image with the UV source. For this purpose, the slide can be made with a filter material for both UV light and visible light. If the image is obtained with at least one addressable pixel matrix of an electronic imager. several configurations are possible: two light sources, namely a UV source and a visible source, and a single matrix; - two light sources, respectively UV and visible. and two matrices. respectively UV and visible. The images are gathered, for example with an X-shaped prism or projected from locations located on both sides of the treated area; a light source emitting at the same time in the UV and in the visible and a UV or visible imager, with for example a dichroic mirror, a moving mirror or a filter for selecting the outgoing radiation - a light source emitting at the same time in the UV and in the visible and two matrices respectively for the UV and for the visible. The projected image can be restricted to an outline at or a few reference points. The light-sensitive makeup made subsequently can be written between these points or this contour. For example, in the case of lip treatment, two reference points can be used. The user applies a layer of thermally stable photochromic composition. The two points are projected in a visible wavelength. unable to produce a light-sensitive makeup effect, for example with a wavelength between 450 and 800 nm. and preferably from 500 nm to 700 nm. The user positions these two points on the two commissures of the lips. Once the positioning is achieved, the UV irradiation forms a lip image between these two points. During UV illumination, the visible image may be cut, reduced or limited to reference points, or left in the same state as during the visible projection phase.

Use of the light-sensitive makeup to make a treatment pattern on the face and then use it to treat the area A photochromic agent, for example chosen from diarylethenes or fulgides, is applied to the area to be treated. having a sufficient thermal stability so that the image that is made can be maintained for at least 20 seconds, and preferably at least 1 minute. The pattern may be an image with dots and / or registration lines. as illustrated in Figure 11, where we see lines delimiting zones A, B and C made by light-sensitive makeup. Where appropriate, a light-sensitive makeup sign is produced. for example alphanumeric, informing the user on the product and / or the applicator to use in this area. The user can carry out makeup or other treatment depending on the pattern thus revealed. For this, he can use classic makeup tools. The user can also use the pattern made by light-sensitive makeup to apply care products.

For example, a diagnosis of areas requiring special care. for example by image analysis and / or with the aid of one or more sensors sensitive to the cutaneous state for example. and a mapping of the treatment to be performed is carried out. which can be memorized. Then we use the system of light-sensitive makeup to reveal a pattern on the face. where will be revealed in a colorful way at least temporarily areas requiring care. The user can then apply to the areas thus highlighted the care product or products. Positioning reference points on the face. then use of a device recognizing these points and using them to make the makeup The user can position reference points on the face by light-sensitive makeup. Once the reference points are placed on the area to be treated, it is possible to use an apparatus provided with means for reading the reference points, and preferably also capable of interpreting them if necessary. The apparatus may be provided, in an exemplary implementation, a multi-pixel sensor, an internal lighting. and an application means, for example an ink jet print head. The dots represent for example a line. The user moves the device on the skin, which is configured to optically analyze the surface. For example. assuming that the area to be treated is delimited by a closed contour. when the apparatus determines that it crosses a line a first time, it begins to deposit a colored matter, then when it crosses a line a second time, it stops depositing the colored matter.

The points can represent, when they are connected, a shape. The apparatus may be provided with means for recognizing these points and the corresponding form. The apparatus can deposit a colored material so as to achieve this form. For this, the device can start from a model that makes coincide with the points by realizing geometric rectifications.

The deposition of colored matter can define a curve or a surface inscribed in a curve. The coverage of the line and / or the surface may be homogeneous, randomly heterogeneous or geometrically heterogeneous, that is to say having a repeating pattern. The points present on the area to be treated may define a code. The apparatus may be provided with means for interpreting the code corresponding to these points, and apply a product whose selection and / or mode of application is performed according to the recognized code. For example. some points are formed with a first pattern and others with a different pattern. The device applies two different products or the same product at different concentrations depending on the pattern detected. Photoprotective Composition As mentioned above, a photoprotective composition can be applied to the thermally stable photochromic composition once the desired appearance is achieved. This photoprotective composition can screen UV radiation when the irradiation to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition is UV irradiation. The photoprotective composition may also, if necessary, screen at least one predefined wavelength in the visible, in order to limit the risk of erasure of a photochromic agent, if appropriate.

One or more optical agents providing the photoprotective composition a filtering power F solar radiation (290 to 400 nm) ranging from 2 to 20, preferably from 4 to 10, may be used.

The photoprotective composition may be, if appropriate. a shiny, oily or emollient product, anti-shine, a pink cheek, a blush, a varnish or a primer. Optical agents Optical agents shielding the radiation for revelation. especially UV or near UV. The above optical agent (s) may be chosen from filters and diffusing particles or other agents which limit the transmission of UV, in particular UVA and / or UVB.

This or these optical agents may be chosen from inorganic filters. especially in particulate form and nanoscale, and organic filters. The optical agent (s) may be hydrophilic or lipophilic. The organic filters may be chosen from anthranilate derivatives. cinnamic, salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives, benzimidazole derivatives, benzotriazole, benzalmalonate derivatives, imidazolines. bisbenzoazolyl, benzoxazole derivatives, triazine derivatives, benzophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, beta derivatives. diphenylacrylate beta, p-aminobenzoic derivatives, filter and silicone screening polymers described in WO 93/04665, dimers derived from alpha alkylstyrene. 4,4-diarylbutadiene and mixtures thereof. The hydrophilic filters may be chosen from those described in application EP A 678 292. for example 3-benzylidene 2-camphor, in particular Mexoryl SX. Among the lipophilic filters, mention may be made of dibenzoylmethane derivatives. described in publications FR 2 326 405, FR 2 440 933, EP 0 114 607. Parsol '1789 from Givaudan, Eusolex from Merck. We can also mention the a-cvano-b. 2-ethylhexyl biphenylacrylate. called octocrylene and available under the trade name Uvinul N 539 from BASF. It is also possible to mention p-methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the trade name Eusolex EX 6300 from Merck.

A filter chosen from benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone) can also be used as optical active agent. benzophenone-4 (sulisobenzone), benzophenone-8 (dioxybenzone), bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (BEMT or Tinosorb S).

Diethvlamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (Uvinul +). Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Methyl Anthranilate (Meradimate). (4-) methyl-benzylidene camphor (Parsol 5000). Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol (Tinosorb M), para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA). Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic acid (Ensulizole), Polysilicone 15 (Parsol SLX). triethanolamine salicylate. It is also possible to use as optical agent diffusing particles such as nanopigments of titanium or zinc oxide, which can be used as a filter, with various surface treatments depending on the medium chosen. The nanopigments typically have an average size of 5 to 1000 nm. The total mass concentration of such optical agent (s) may range from 0.001% to 30%, or even more in the case of dry or almost dry formulas, relative to the weight of the photoprotective composition, before application. Preferably, within the composition are used filters or combinations for shielding radiation in the range 320 to 400 nm. and preferably from 320 to 420 nm. Optical Assets for Limiting the Spread of Visible and Infrared Light to the Photochromic Agent (s) If Optical UV Screening Agents Allow Unrevealed Areas to be Protected, in the Case of a Relable Thermally Stable Photochromic Composition by UV irradiation, it is also possible to apply to the thermally stable photochromic composition one or more optical filtering agents in the visible, to protect the revealed areas, and it may be advantageous to combine the two, namely filtration in the UV and filtration in the visible. Many dyes or pigments are usable. In particular. dyes of color close to that of the skin are preferred, for example yellow dyes. oranges or mixtures which make it possible to produce yellow, orange, ocher, brown or brown hues or red dyes which will preferably be used either in small quantities or mixed with a white or yellow diffusing agent, for example, to give 30 in the shade a pastel aspect such as pink or beige pink. Dyes of dyes a little pink are preferred for pink skin. shades a little yellow for pink skins and shades brown or brown for the so-called black skins.

The dyes may have, either alone or in a mixture, a chromaticity close to that of the skin. They are preferably chroma C * (in the HVC * system) of less than 40. The dye (s) may be chosen from: the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47005, the orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, and the red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470. It is possible to use in the photoprotective composition pigment pastes. of organic pigment such as the products sold by HOECHST under the names: YELLOW COSMENYL IOG YELLOW 3 Pigment (Cl 11710) YELLOW COSMENYL G: YELLOW Pigment 1 (Cl 11680) ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Orange Pigment 43 (Cl 71105) It is possible to use lacquers and, in particular, are known under the names D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45370), D & C Red 27 (CI 20 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45,430), D & C Red 7 (CI 15,850: 1), D & C Red 4 (CI 15,510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17,200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19,140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15,985), D & C Yellow 10 (CI 77,002). The dyes can be ionic or neutral. Natural dyes and pigments are particularly preferred because they combine well with natural dyes and some lose their color over time. These are for example plant extracts or natural molecules artificially reproduced, being chosen for example from melanin, anthocyanins, polyphenols, porphyrins and curcumin. They are, for example, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole and / or phenol derivatives, as described in the publication FR 2 679 771.

Particularly preferred are dyes and pigments having an ionicity complementary to the UV filters, for example anionic function dyes. like some food dyes and cationic filters. It is also possible to use IR filters or compounds which, by reaction. will color, for example DHA. It is possible to use an evolutionary dye, for example a dye whose color is revealed over time and if possible slowly, for example DHA or polyphenols, which are able to stain gradually on contact with the air. This makes it possible to progressively develop the filtering power of the photoprotective composition.

Thermally unstable photochromic agents The thermally unstable photochromic coloring agent may be used as the optical agent in the photoprotective composition. This one is not used to create the light-sensitive makeup but to protect it in case of too intense light exposure. for example in the case of very strong sunshine or an artificial effect such as the illumination used on the television sets, certain medical treatments, certain cosmetic treatments such as UV cabins for example, photographic flashes or certain festive places. The thermally unstable photochromic agent will take its color during the very intense illumination and, in a certain way, may limit the visibility of the underlying light-sensitive makeup. However, as the thermally unstable photochromic agent quickly resumes its colorless form after stopping the very intense illumination. this phenomenon is temporary. Preferably, thermally unstable photochromic agents are used. losing at least half their color in 60 seconds at 25 ° C in the dark. In particular, inorganic thermally unstable photochromic agents are preferred. Optical agents capable of reflecting incident light An optical agent forming a metal mirror or an optical agent based on interferential multilayer structure or diffraction grating can be used as optical agent, in particular for attenuating UV or visible light.

As optical agents usable alone or in addition to the optical agents enumerated above, it is possible to use optical agents capable of reflecting the incident light. The reflection occurs at the interface between the reflective layer and the propagation medium of the light wave. The material forming the reflective layer may have a refractive index greater than 1.5, possibly greater than L8. The optical agent may contain or be formed of a metal. For example. the silver photoprotective composition is formed by the reduction of a silver salt or by the application of a dispersion of silver nanoparticles. The reflection rate of the photoprotective composition may be greater than 5%, and if possible greater than 10%. Preferably, it is less than 50%. so as not to taint the result of the light-sensitive makeup For example. the photoprotective composition may comprise an aqueous or ethanolic dispersion of silver nanoparticles. for example those of the company Nippon Paint which have a size ranging from 10 to 60 nm depending on the samples and are stabilized by a polymeric system. This stabilization does not prevent, at the time of drying. the particles to come into contact, and through these contacts, to ensure sufficient conductivity to give the final material a reflectivity similar to that obtained with a silver mirror. An optical agent having an interferential multilayer structure can be used. This interferential structure can filter the light by a phenomenon of destructive interferences between the light waves reflected by the different layers of the structure. The multilayer structure is preferably chosen so as to have a high transmission factor in the visible, so as not to produce a visible color in the visible and to present the desired transparency. The multilayer structure may comprise alternating layers of low and high refractive indices. The difference in refractive index between the high and low index layers is for example greater than or equal to 0.1, better 0.15. even better 0.6. The number of layers of the above-mentioned alternation is, for example, at least 2, better 4 or 6, or even at least 12, which facilitates the production of a structure that is not very sensitive to the incidence of light and exhibits selectivity. required. The multilayer structure may optionally be symmetrical. and allow incident light filtration irrespective of the main input face of the light in the structure. where appropriate.

The high refractive index material may be inorganic, for example titanium dioxide in anatase or rutile form, iron oxide, zirconium dioxide. zinc oxide, zinc sulfide, bismuth oxychloride, and mixtures thereof. or organic. being for example chosen from: PEEK (polyetheretherketone). polyimide. PVN (Poly (2-vinylnaphthalene)), PVK (Poly (N-vinyl carbazole)). PF (phenol formaldehyde resin), PSU (polysulfone resin), PaMes (poly (alpha-methylstyrene)). PVDC. (Poly (vinylidene chloride)), MeOS (Poly (4-methoxystyrene)). PS (polystyrene). BPA. (bisphenol-A polycarbonate), PC (polycarbonate resin), PVB (Poly (vinyl benozoate)), PET (poly (ethyleneterephthalate)), PDAP (poly (diallyl phthalate)). PPhMA (poly (phenyl methacrylate)), SAN (styrene / acrylonitrile copolymer), HDPE (high density polyethylene), PVC (polyvinyl chloride), NYLON, POM (poly (oxymethylene) or polyformaldehyde). PMA (poly (methyl acrylate)), etc., and mixtures thereof. The low refractive index material may be inorganic, being for example selected from silicon dioxide. magnesium fluoride, aluminum oxide, and mixtures thereof, or organic, being for example chosen from polymers such as polymethyl methacrylate or polystyrene, polyurethane, and mixtures thereof. In order to produce the interference particles with a multilayer structure, those skilled in the art may notably refer to the numerous publications that deal with thin-film deposition, for example the article Overcoated Microspheres for Specific Optical Powers of Applied Optics revenue, Vol. 41, No. 6 of 01/06/2002, here incorporated by reference, and to the patents of the company FLEXPRODUCTS. The optical agent may comprise a diffractive structure. and for example at least one diffraction grating, which may be a grating having a surface pattern repeating substantially so as to diffract the light.

The period of the network and possibly the depth thereof determine among other things the diffraction properties of the network. The duty cycle of the diffraction grating may be chosen equal to unity. Preferably, the period of the diffraction grating, in at least one direction. is advantageously low enough to reduce the risk of creating colored effects in the photoprotective composition. The period of the grating is thus advantageously chosen so as not to diffract the light in the visible range. in particular in the range from 400 nm to 780 nm.

The maximum period of the grating which makes it possible to avoid having diffraction orders in the visible can be determined at least approximately by the relation: FI m + u = n nn. where 0 is the angle of incidence measured relative to the normal to the plane of the network. `The transmission angle ,. A. the period of the grating, m the diffraction order and ni and n2 the refractive indices of the incidence and transmission media, respectively. n1 and n2 can be taken as 1.5 in the first approximation. For 0 = 0 °, the maximum period is 2,. / Ni = 400 / 1.5 or about 267 nm. Without limitation on the angle of incidence, the period is half less. We will therefore preferably choose a period for the network less than or equal to 270 nm, better than or equal to 140 nm. The depth d of the network and its period A can be selected by successive tests so as to obtain, for example, a minimum transmission in the UVA. The calculation of the network characteristics can be carried out by vector calculation using for example the GSOLVER software from GRATING SOLVER DEVELOPMENT COMPANY. The one or more layers used to make the diffraction grating (s) may optionally be deposited on a substrate of organic or inorganic nature, which may be used such that or subsequently undergo a dissolution treatment. Thus, the structure of the network or networks may be etched either in the mass of a material or after the deposition of a material on an organic or inorganic substrate of spherical or lamellar form. The etching can be carried out so that the diffraction of light in the visible part is minimal, to reduce the color effects. The periodicity of the etching and its thickness determine the effectiveness of the system to attenuate the UV radiation. The interference filtering agent may optionally comprise two diffraction gratings extending in non-parallel directions. for example, two substantially perpendicular directions, which may in particular make it possible to increase the uptake in the UV of a circularly polarized incident light and to reduce the dependence of filtration performance on the angle of incidence. . The two diffraction gratings may have substantially equal periods A1 and A2. especially both less than or equal to 270 nm, better at 140 nm. The two diffraction gratings may also have substantially equal depths. when they present a relief on the surface and that this relief makes it possible to create the periodic variation of index of the network. The period of the network can be constant or variable and the constant or variable depth. The network may extend in a rectilinear or curvilinear direction. The diffraction grating may comprise a superposition of layers having different refractive indices. The diffraction grating can be made at least partially in a dielectric material. The patterns of the network or networks may be various and for example have, in section, rectangular slots, triangular, sinusoidal waves or stepped crenellations. The diffractive structure may be formed at least on a portion of a main face of the particle and preferably on the two main faces of the particle. The diffracting structure may comprise a protective layer covering the network or networks and not diffracting. It is also possible to mention interferential effect pigments that are not fixed on a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), and holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f / x from Spectratek).

The composition may comprise a mixture of UVA and / or UVB filtering interference elements, for example particles having diffraction gratings having different periods and / or depths. Optical Agents Capable of Transforming the Wavelength of Incident Light The photoprotective composition may comprise a fluorescent compound. By fluorescent compound is meant a compound which absorbs the light of the ultraviolet spectrum, and possibly of the visible e1: which converts the absorbed energy into fluorescent light of longer wavelength, emitted in the ultraviolet or visible part of the spectrum. They can be optical brighteners, which can be transparent and colorless, do not absorb in visible light but only in the UV and transform the energy absorbed into fluorescent light of longer wavelength, for example more 20 nm long, better 50 nm. even 100 nm, emitted in the visible part of the spectrum: the color printing generated by these brighteners can then only be generated by purely fluorescent light predominantly blue, with wavelengths ranging from 400 to 500 nm.

These compounds may be in solution or particulate. The fluorescent compound may be a dicetopyrrolopyrrole of the formula: wherein R1, R2. R3 and R4 independently of each other represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a C 6 -C 30 aryl group; a hydroxy group; a cyano group; a nitro group; a sulfo group: an amino group; an acylamino group; a dialkyl (C 1 -C 6) amino group; a (C 1 -C 6) dihydroxyalkyl amino group, a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl (C 1 -C 6) hydroxyalkyl amino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkoxy group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkoxycarbonyl group; a C 1 -C 6 carboxyalkoxy group; a piperidinosulfonyl group; a pyrrolidino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl halo (C 1 -C 6) alkyl amino group; a benzoyl (C 1 -C 6) alkyl group; a vinyl group; a formyl group: a C 6 -C 30 aryl radical optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, linear C 1 -C 6 alkoxy, branched or cyclic, linear, branched or cyclic alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms; even being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups. amino, C 1 -C 6 alkoxy; a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl, amino, linear C 1 -C 6 alkoxy, branched or cyclic, optionally substituted aryl, carboxyl groups, sulfo, a halogen atom, which alkyl radical can be interrupted by a heteroatom; The fluorescent compound may be a naphthalimide of the formula: wherein R1, R2, R3, independently of each other, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom a C 6 -C 30 aryl group; a hydroxy group; a cyano group; a nitro group; a sulfo group an amino group an acylamino group; a dialkyl (C 1 -C 6) amino group; a dihydroxyalkyl (C 1 -C 6) amino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl hydroxyalkyl (C 1 -C 6) amino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkoxy group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkoxycarbonyl group; a C1-C6 carboxyalkoxy group; a piperidinosulfonyl group; a pyrrolidino group; a (C 1 -C 6) alkyl halo (C 1 -C 6) alkyl amino group; a benzoylalkyl group (C1-C6) a vinyl group; a formyl group; a C 6 -C 30 aryl radical optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from hydroxyl groups. linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 6 alkoxy, linear alkyl. branched or cyclic comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms itself being optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, amino, C 1 -C 6 alkoxy a linear, branched or cyclic alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with one or more groups selected from linear, branched or cyclic hydroxyl, amino, C 1 -C 6 alkoxy groups. optionally substituted aryl, carboxyl, sulfo, a halogen atom, which alkyl radical may be interrupted by a heteroatom; the substituents R.sub.1, R.sub.2, R.sub.3 can form, with the carbon atoms to which they are attached, an aromatic or non-aromatic C.sub.6-C.sub.30 or heterocyclic ring comprising in total from 5 to 30 members and from 1 to 5 heteroatoms, these rings being condensed or not , inserting or not a carbonyl group. and being substituted or unsubstituted by one or more groups chosen from C 1 -C 4 alkyl, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy (C 1 -C 4) alkyl, amino, dialkyl (C 1 -C 4) amino, halogen, phenyl groups; . carboxy, tri (C 1 -C 4) alkylammonio (C 1 -C 4) alkyl; The fluorescent compound may be a stylbene derivative such as: wherein R is methyl or ethyl; R 'represents a methyl radical, X- anion of the chloride, iodide, sulfate, methosulphate or acetate type. perchlorate. By way of example of a compound of this type, mention may be made of Photosensitiving Dye NK-557 sold by the company UBICHEM, for which R represents an ethyl radical. R 'a methyl radical and X- an iodide.

The fluorescent compound may be a methynic derivative such as: or an oxazine or thiazine derivative of general formula: mention may also be made of dicyanopyrazine derivatives (from the company Nippon Paint). naphtholactam derivatives, azalactone derivatives, rhodamines, xanthene derivatives. It is also possible to use pigments or mineral particles (MgO, TiO2, znO, Ca (OH) 2) or organic particles (latex, etc.) comprising in their core or on their surface such compounds. The fluorescent compound may also be a semiconductor compound which. for example in the form of small particles, called quantum dots, has a fluorescent effect. Quantum dots are luminescent semiconductor nanoparticles capable of emitting, under light excitation, radiation having a wavelength of between 400 nm and 700 nm. These nanoparticles may be manufactured according to the methods described for example in US Pat. Nos. 6,225,198 or 5,990,479, in the publications cited therein. as well as in the following publications: Dabboussi B.O. et al. (CdSe) ZnS core-shell quantum dots: synthesis and characterization of a size of highly luminescent nanocrystallites "Journal of Phisical Chemistry B, Vol 101, 1997, pp 9463-9475. and Peng, Xiaogang et al., "Epitaxial Growth of Highly Luminescent CdSe / CdS core / shell nanocrystals with photostability and electronic accessibility" Journal of the American Chemical Society, vol 119. No. 30, pp 7019-7029. Preferred fluorescent compounds are those emitting the colors orange and yellow, for example. Preferably, the fluorescent compound (s) used as optical agents in the invention have a maximum reflectance in the wavelength range of 500 to 650 nm, and preferably in the wavelength range. ranging from 550 to 620 nanometers. Such fluorescent compounds are, for example, those belonging to the following families: naphthalimides, cationic or non-cationic coumarines; xanthenodiquinolizines (especially sulforhodamines); azaxanthenes: naphtholactams; azlactones; oxazines; thiazines; dioxazines: polycationic fluorescent dyes of azo, azomethine or methine type. alone or in mixtures. More particularly, mention may be made of: the Brilliant Yellow B6GL marketed by the SANDOZ company and of the following structure: the Basic Yellow 2. or Auramine O marketed by the PROLABO companies. ALDRICH or CARLO ERBA and of following structure: The fluorescent compounds used can be aminophenyl ethenyl aryl. where aryl is a pyridinium. substituted or not, or another cationic group such as substituted or unsubstituted imidizoliniums. For example. it is possible to use a fluorescent compound such as 2- [2- (4-dialkylamino) phenylethenyl] -1-alkylpyridinium, in which the alkyl radical of the pyridinium ring represents a methyl or ethyl radical, and that of the benzene ring represents a methyl radical. . An optical agent can contain on the same molecule, several fluorescent groups. By way of example, they are dimers such as: CR_R4 -N where R1. R2. identical or different, represent - a hydrogen atom: - a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; an aryl or arylalkyl radical, the aryl group having 6 carbon atoms and the alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; the aryl radical being optionally substituted by one or more linear or branched alkyl radicals comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms which are optionally interrupted and / or substituted by at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom.

R1 and R2 may optionally be joined to form a heterocycle with the nitrogen atom and include one or more other heteroatoms. the heterocycle being optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and optionally being interrupted and / or substituted with at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; R1 or R2 may optionally be engaged in a heterocycle comprising the nitrogen atom and one of the carbon atoms of the phenyl group carrying said nitrogen atom; R3, R4, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom. an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms. R5, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom. a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom; R6, identical or not, represent a hydrogen atom; a halogen atom; a linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms. optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or a group carrying at least one heteroatom and / or substituted by at least one halogen atom; X represents: - an alkyl radical. linear or branched comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms. or alkenyl comprising 2 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted and / or substituted with at least one heteroatom and / or group comprising at least one heteroatom and / or substituted with at least one halogen atom; a heterocyclic radical comprising 5 or 6 members. optionally substituted by at least one linear or branched alkyl radical comprising 1 to 14 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom, with at least one aminoalkyl radical. linear or branched. comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with at least one heteroatom; by at least one halogen atom; an aromatic or diaromatic radical condensed or not. separated or not by an alkyl radical comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms, the aryl radical or radicals being optionally substituted with at least one halogen atom or with at least one alkyl radical comprising 1 to 10 carbon atoms which is optionally substituted and / or interrupted by at least one heteroatom and / or group carrying at least one heteroatom; a dicarbonyl radical; the X group may carry one or more cationic charges: a is equal to 0 or 1; Y-, identical or not, represent an organic or mineral anion; n being an integer at least equal to 2 and at most equal to the number of cationic charges present in the fluorescent compound. Other dimers are possible, for example those where the point of attachment is made between the two non-cationic groups, or for example those where the pyridinium group is replaced by another arylcationic group such as imidazolinium. The family of dicyanopyrazines may also provide fluorescent compounds in oranges and of interest for the invention.

Fluorescent pigments in oranges are also usable. For example. Sunbrite pigment-SG2515 Yellow orange from SunChemical. Application of the photoprotective composition The user can apply the photoprotective composition over the entire treated area. by far exceeding the thermally stable photochromic composition layer or, on the contrary, in a localized manner only on certain zones, as illustrated in FIG. 12. In this figure, the light-sensitive makeup has been made with a thermally stable photochromic composition PC largely covered by the photoprotective composition PP. The photoprotective composition may for example be located on the edges of the zone coated with the thermally stable photochromic composition, thus surrounding the light-sensitive makeup patterns in the case where the light-sensitive makeup is less extensive than the thermally stable photochromic composition layer.

The photoprotective composition layer may also take the form of a flexible film to be adhered to the keratin materials, for example the skin. The film material may act as an optical agent and / or the film may contain at least one optical agent dispersed in the film material. The film may still carry a coating containing the optical agent. for example in the form of an impression or an interferential multilayer structure. The user can apply such a film to the entire thermally stable photochromic composition layer or may optionally cut the film to cover only unrevealed areas, by not covering the revealed areas.

One can use an automatic cutting system, which starting from the content of the light-sensitive makeup, for example its contour, will cut the protective film to the appropriate shape. The user will then place the protective film thus cut on the undisclosed areas. In another example of implementation of the invention, the photoprotective composition is deposited by transfer, by applying a support sheet carrying at least one optical agent on the area to be treated. The user can bring the sheet into contact with the keratin materials coated with the thermally stable photochromic composition, then by friction or by other means such as heat or the use of a solvent, cause the transfer of the agent (s) optics on the thermally stable photochromic composition layer. In an exemplary implementation of the invention, the photoprotective composition layer is reversible, that is to say that the user can remove it without removing the first layer of thermally stable photochromic composition. For this purpose, the first layer can be formulated so that it is resistant to water or to a mixture of water and surfactant and formulate the second layer so that it is not resistant to water or mixture of water and surfactant. It is also possible to make a second peelable layer. For this, one can use a second forming layer. before or after application on the first layer. a cohesive coating. The second layer, when peelable, comprises for example an elastomeric material. In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, the second layer is not very adherent to the first layer, for example by virtue of the use in the thermally stable photochromic composition of low surface tension compounds such as silicone or fluorinated compounds. . In another example of implementation of the invention. a non-adhering intermediate layer is interposed between the first and second layers. facilitating the removal of the photoprotective composition layer.

The photoprotective composition layer may have. especially when it is reversible, a filtering power F very important, for example greater than or equal to 20. It can deposit a single layer containing the optical agent (s) or several layers containing several different optical agents. For example, a single layer can be deposited to protect the thermally stable photochromic composition layer from UV radiation and visible light. It is also possible to deposit a specific layer for UV protection and an additional layer for additional protection in the UV and / or in the visible. this additional layer comprising for example a dye or a thermally unstable photochromic agent. One can also exceed a layer for UV protection and an additional layer comprising a fluorescent compound providing additional protection in the UV. In a particular case, a multilayer film is applied having a first layer of thermally stable photochromic composition and a second photoprotective layer comprising an optical agent forming a shield to the revealing radiation of the thermally stable photochromic composition. This film can be self-supporting or applied by transfer. The thermally stable photochromic composition can be applied to even keratin materials or to a basecoat. in particular a base layer as defined below. The second composition may be applied directly to the thermally stable photochromic composition layer or to an intermediate layer therebetween, as mentioned above. The second composition may itself be coated, if appropriate. an additional layer.

Choice of Ingredients of the Different Layers In an exemplary embodiment of the invention, two layers successively applied, for example the thermally stable photochromic composition layer and the photoprotective composition layer or the base layer and the thermally photochromic composition layer. stable or the layer of thermally stable photochromic composition and the layer intended to form a material protecting the light-sensitive makeup may have a physical complementarity allowing or facilitating the attachment of the second layer on the first and / or allowing or facilitating the spreading of the second layer on the first.

It may be advantageous if there is complementarity of ionicity. Thus, the first layer may contain an anionic polymer for example, and the second layer then contains a cationic compound, for example a cationic filter, a cationic dye or a cationic fluorescent compound. The opposite is possible. It can also be advantageous if there is complementarity of surface tension. Thus, the first layer may have a first surface tension, preferably greater than 40 mN.m -1, for example by using at least one hydrophilic polymer. The second layer may have a second surface tension lower than the first, preferably less than 40, for example by using a predominantly oily, silicone or fluorinated composition, or by using a composition in which one or more surfactants have been introduced. You can choose ingredients (solvents, adhesives ...) for the second layer that are not solvents of the first. For example, an organic solvent can be chosen (ethanol, acetone, alkyl acetate, carbonaceous oils (isododecane for example), volatile silicones (D5 for example), etc.) for the first layer and an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solvent for the second layer. Or vice versa. It is also possible to choose two organic solvents or two aqueous solvents for the two layers. provided that upon drying of the first layer, a transformation takes place. For example, a first layer containing a latex is employed. This last goes. drying. coalesce and make the first layer inert in the face of the application of the second layer. It is also possible to use a first layer containing an acrylic / acrylate copolymer which is not very hydrosoluble and rendered water-soluble by neutralization with a volatile base such as ammonia. After drying the first layer. the ammonia will evaporate and make the first layer water resistant. Base coat A basecoat of a first photoprotective composition containing at least one optical agent capable of forming a screen at a wavelength a, at least temporarily, in particular a wavelength belonging to the substrate, may be applied to the keratin materials. the range at the 320 to 440 nm range, and apply on this base layer a second thermally stable photochromic composition which can be detected by exposure to radiation of at least one wavelength, where the optical agents can be chosen from those indicated herein. The photoprotective composition applied as a base layer has, for example, at least at the time of its application, a filtering power F with respect to the solar radiation of at least 2, better 5 or 10. The use of the base layer makes it possible to reduce the risk of staining of the skin by making it more difficult to migrate the photochromic agent (s) of the thermal photochromic composition stably stable towards the underlying keratin materials. This migration can be slowed further, or even prevented, when the first and second compositions are immiscible in one another. one of the compositions being for example aqueous and the other non-aqueous or conversely so as to form two phases. Thus, it is possible to choose ingredients (solvents, adhesives, etc.) for the second composition which are not solvents of the thermally stable photochromic composition and vice versa. For example, an organic solvent is chosen, for example from alcohols or ketones, in particular ethanol or acetone or alkyl acetate. carbonaceous oils, in particular isododecane, volatile silicones, for the second photoprotective composition and an aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic solvent for the first thermally stable photochromic composition, or vice versa. It is also possible to choose two organic solvents or two aqueous solvents for the two compositions. so that on drying a transformation takes place. For example, a first composition containing a latex is employed. This last goes. drying, coalesce and render the inert layer facing the application of the thermally stable photochromic composition. The base layer may be formed on a larger surface than the thermally stable photochromic composition. This facilitates the application of the thermally stable photochromic composition because the user no longer has to worry about precisely matching the application contours of the two compositions. When the thermally stable photochromic composition is detectable by exposure to UV radiation, then preferentially the optical agent contained in the base layer is a non-photostable sun filter with a photostability index less than or equal to 80%. A resultant advantage is that when the base layer is applied to the skin, the user is not completely prevented from tanning, even if the base layer has been applied to a range far exceeding the composition. thermally stable photochromic. The basecoat may lose its UV filtering capacity upon exposure to the sun. which allows the user to gradually tan at least in the area not covered by the thermally stable photochromic composition. If the sunscreen was photostable, the user might be afraid to over-apply the basecoat, otherwise there would be a tan.

To measure the photostability of a sunscreen. this is diluted in a C1e-C15 alkyl benzoate solvent brand FINSOLV. The parsol filter 1789 is an example of a non-photostable filter with a photostability index of the order of 30%. defined as the ratio between the filtering power after one hour of exposure to UVA radiation produced by a SUNTEST brand irradiator on the initial filtering power. The base layer can be applied more or less long before the light-sensitive makeup, for example more than 15 minutes before, which may have the effect of leaving the base layer time to dry and make it little or not soluble in the layer applied to it, as mentioned above. In addition, by drying, the base layer may optionally form a relatively smooth surface, facilitating the application of a layer of uniform thickness of thermally stable photochromic composition. As the skin is smoothed, the second layer may be thinner and the risk of thickness inhomogeneities that could give unsightly visual effects after revelation is reduced. Where appropriate, at least one intermediate layer may be applied to the base layer so as to lie between the thermally stable photochromic composition layer and the base layer. This intermediate layer may have the effect of improving the resistance of the layer of thermally stable photochromic composition to the base layer or, on the contrary, of facilitating its removal, for example during makeup removal. The intermediate layer may be a layer of a polymer or wax.

The intermediate layer may in particular not have a filtration function of the wavelength X of revelation of the thermally stable photochromic composition. It is also possible to apply a layer of another composition under the base layer to facilitate its attachment to the skin. Thus, the base layer may not be directly in contact with the skin. Alternatively, the base layer is applied to the skin or other keratin materials. Mechanical protection of the light-sensitive makeup film At least one layer of thermally stable photochromic composition can be applied to the keratin materials and, by virtue of a second composition or by virtue of an energy supply, can form a material providing mechanical protection for the light-sensitive makeup in the layer of thermally stable photochromic composition. It is also possible to deposit on the layer of thermally stable photochromic composition at least one covering layer allowing the formation of a material providing mechanical protection of the light-sensitive makeup. The light-sensitive makeup may be produced before or after the formation of the material providing mechanical protection for the light-sensitive makeup, by selectively revealing the thermally stable photochromic composition layer. Improving the mechanical strength of the light-sensitive makeup makes it possible to delay the degradation of the image formed and the loss of sharpness of the image over time is slowed down. In addition, the light-sensitive makeup is made less sensitive to friction and movement. The risk of transferring the thermally stable photochromic composition to clothing or other body regions is also decreased. It is thus possible to carry out a more lasting light-sensitive makeup-taking on areas such as areas covered with clothing, for example the back, the belly, the breasts. legs or buttocks. The formation of said material can be done by evaporation of solvent (s). by a polymerization or crosslinking reaction, which need not necessarily be complete. Surface hardening, by polymerization and / or crosslinking. may be enough to improve the outfit.

The material providing mechanical protection of the light-sensitive makeup is advantageously transparent. When the material covers the layer of thermally stable photochromic composition, the material forms a wear layer which can, by gradually growing during the day, protect the light-sensitive makeup.

The material may also, when it covers the layer of thermally stable photochromic composition, contribute to the aesthetics of the light-sensitive makeup. by providing an additional optical effect, for example a magnifying effect or coloring. When the thermally stable photochromic composition provides the ability to clear the light-sensitive makeup by irradiating the thermally stable photochromic composition layer at a wavelength different from that used to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition, the material can improve the holdability without prevent the disappearance of the light-sensitive makeup if desired, the user does not have to make a complete cleansing to do this. To form the material providing the mechanical protection of the light-sensitive makeup, polymerizable and / or crosslinkable compounds may be used in the thermally stable photochromic composition and / or in the covering layer. The thermally stable photochromic composition may contain any polymerizable and / or crosslinkable compounds for forming the material. Optionally, the irradiation used to reveal the thermally stable photochromic composition serves for polymerization and / or crosslinking. The thermally stable photochromic composition may also contain a first agent that can potentially polymerize and / or crosslink. After or before the revelation of the one or more photochromic agents of the thermally stable photochromic composition, a second compound is applied which can, by association with the first, carry out the polymerization or crosslinking. Optionally, the irradiation is also used for polymerization and / or crosslinking.

In other exemplary embodiments, the second composition is applied after the application of the thermally stable photochromic composition and the production of the light-sensitive makeup. The application of the covering layer can be done either before or after irradiation to reveal the photochromic agent (s). Its average thickness may be at least 2 m, if possible at least 5 m if the material is rather hard or elastomeric, better at least 10 m if the material has a rather soft modulus of elasticity. In the case where the keratin materials are covered by a single layer which comprises the light-sensitive makeup, the thickness of this layer is preferably greater than 5 m, and more preferably 10 m. The thickness is preferably less than 1 mm. In the case where the thermally stable photochromic composition incorporates all or part of the potentially crosslinkable compounds, it is possible to apply in a second time, before or after drying of the first composition, a second compound causing the crosslinking or necessary thereto. The thickness of the second layer (expressed after evaporation of the possible solvents) is preferably equal to at least 20% of the thickness of the first layer, and preferably greater than 50% of the thickness of the first layer. The thickness of the second layer is preferably greater than 5 m.

In the case where the thermally stable photochromic composition does not include any potentially crosslinkable compound, it is possible, in a second step, to apply a second composition containing the compounds producing the crosslinking. The thickness of the second layer (expressed after evaporation of the possible solvents) is preferably equal to at least 10% of the thickness of the first layer, and preferably greater than 30% of the thickness of the first layer. The thickness of the second layer is at least greater than 5 m, and preferably less than 1 mm.

The polymerization and / or crosslinking for forming the material can be chemical or physical. Polymerization and / or chemical crosslinking By chemical crosslinking, the fact that a compound can be alone, or by reaction with a second compound, or by the action of radiation or a supply of energy, create chemical bonds covalent between the molecules. The result is the increase in the cohesion of the material comprising this compound. The compound may be a single molecule or may already be the result of the combination of several molecules. for example oligomers or polymers. The compound may carry one or more reactive functions. The molecules giving preference after crosslinking a solid and / or deformable but elastomeric material are preferred. The chemical functions can react on another function of the same nature or react with another chemical function.

Reaction on another function of the same nature These are, for example, ethylenic functions, in particular acrylate, acrylic, methacrylate, methacrylic or styrene functions. These molecules generally require a form of external activation to react, for example light, heat, the application of a catalyst, or a combination with photoinitiators and possibly photosensitizers intended to broaden the range of action. photoinitiators. Photopolymerizable and / or photocurable compositions are described, for example, in patents CA 1 306 954 and US 5 456 905. The polymeric compounds carrying ethylenic reactive functional groups described in patent EP 1 247 515 may be used. Ethylenic functions may be activated by an attractor group so as to accelerate the reactions and render unnecessary the contribution of an external activation. This is typically the case of the ethylcyanoacrylate monomer, for which the mere presence of a catalyst such as water allows the reaction.

The ethylenic functions can be activated moderately, for example by an attractor group. The advantage is that the reaction requires external activation, which is interesting for controlling the start and the yield of the reaction, but does not require a photoinitiator. For example, it is cyanoacrylate monomers. and in particular cyanoacrylate monomers whose group carried by the ester function contains at least 2, if possible 4, carbon chains. Molecules requiring external activation such as light are preferred. but not asking for a photoinitiator. Thus, especially preferred are molecules capable of reacting by photodimerization, such as those described in patent EP 1 572 139. in particular those carrying functions such as 1) stylbazoliums. R represents the hydrogen atom, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group, and R 'represents the hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, 2) styrylazoliums: where A denotes a sulfur atom, an oxygen atom; , or a group NR 'or C (R') 2, R and R 'being as defined above, 3) chalcone, 4) (thi (cinnamate and (thio) cinnamamide, 5) maleimide, 6) (thi ( coumarin, 7) thymine, 8) uracil, 9) butadiene or 10) anthracene. 11) Pyridone. 12) pyrrolizinone, 13) acridizinium salts, 14) furanone, 15) phenylbenzoxazole, 16) styrylpyrazine. The reactions taking place on another function of the same nature are not limited to reactions involving ethylenic functions.

Also suitable are condensation-reactive compounds, such as siloxane groups, and especially dialkoxy or dihydroxy silane functions, trialkoxy or trihydroxysilane functional groups. It is possible to use molecules bearing alkyltrialkoxysilane or dialkyltrialkoxysilane functions, and in particular alkylalkoxysilane functions in which the alkyl group carries a water-solubilizing function such as an amine, for example a molecule such as aminotriethoxysilane or aminotriethoxysilane, or molecules carrying such functions. In addition to small molecules based on siloxanes (monomers or oligomers), it is possible to use compounds of greater mass, in particular those described in patent FR 2 910 315. - sol-gels based on titanium. With these molecules, it is possible to control the start and the yield of the reaction. Oxidation-reactive compounds, such as aromatic compounds bearing at least two hydroxyl functions, or a hydroxyl function and an amine function, or a hydroxyl function, for example, cathecol or dihydroxyindole, are also preferred. The oxidizing agent may be oxygen of air or another oxidant such as hydrogen peroxide for example. Reaction on another function The molecules that react in this case have two types of functions, complementary. These may be systems in which molecules carrying FA functions and molecules carrying FB functions that can react with the FA functions are brought into contact.

It can also be molecules bearing on the same structure one or more functions FA and one or more functions FB. The FA function may be chosen for example from: epoxide, aziridine. vinyl and activated vinyl, in particular, acrylonitrile, acrylic and methacrylic esters, crotonic acid and esters, cinnamic acid and esters, styrene and derivatives. butadiene, vinyl ethers, vinyl ketone, maleic esters, vinyl sulfones, maleimides. anhydride, acid chloride and carboxylic acid esters. aldehydes, acetals, hemi-acetals, aminals, hemi-amines, ketones, alpha-hydroxy ketones, alpha-haloketones, lactones, thiolactones, isocyanates, thiocyanates, imines, imides, in particular succinimide, glutimide, N-hydroxysuccinimide esters, imidates. thiosulfate, - oxazine and oxazoline, oxazinium and oxazolinium, C1 to C30 alkyl or C6 to C30 aryl or aralkyl halides of the formula RX, with X = I. Br, Cl. - unsaturated ring halide, carbon or heterocyclic. especially chlorotriazine. - chloropyrimidine. chloroquinoxaline, chlorobenzotriazole, - sulfonyl halide: RSO2Cl or F, R1 being C1 to C30 alkyl.

By way of illustration, mention may be made of the molecules bearing functions of the group FA: methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymer, in particular sold for example by the company ISP under the name Gantrez, glycidyl polymethacrylate, in particular marketed by Polvsciences. polydimethylsiloxane of glycidyl, in particular marketed by Shinetsu (reference X-2Z-173 FX or DX), polyamidoamine epoxy, for example sold by the company Hercules under the name Delsette 101, Kymene 450 from Hercules, epoxy-dextran; polyaldehyde polysaccharides obtained by oxidation of polysaccharides by NaIO4 (Bioconjugate Techniques Hermanson GT, Academic Press, 1996). The function FB can be chosen from the functions XHn with X = O. N. S. COO and n = 1 or 2, in particular the alcohols, amine, thiol and carboxylic acid. By way of example, mention may be made, as molecules carrying functions of the FB type: PAMAM dendrimer, in particular marketed by the company Dendritech, DSM, Sigma-Aldrich (STARBURST, PAMAM DENDRIMER, G (2) O), DENDRITECH company), - dendrimer with hydroxyl functions, in particular marketed by the company Perstorp. DSM, (example: HBP TMP core 2 Generation PERSTORP) - PEI (polyethyleneimine), in particular marketed by BASF. under the name Lupasol, PEI-Thiol, polylysine, in particular marketed by Chisso HP cellulose. such as KLUCELEF from AQUALON), amino-dextran, for example marketed by Carbomer. amino-cellulose, for example those described in WO01 / 25283 of the company BASF, PVA (polyvinyl acetal), for example AIRVOL 540 from the company AIRPRODUCTS CHEMICAL) amino PVA. for example marketed by Carbomer. Also included in this second case are molecules that can react by hydrosilylation reaction: ## STR1 ## where W represents a carbon or silicone chain, for example). The details of the two ingredients, the commercial molecules available. the catalyst conditions and the conditions of use are described in the patent application FR 2 910 315. In a particular case, a molecule already present on the skin, or excreted by the skin, is used as reagent or catalyst. Typically, water. which may help the reaction of cyanoacrylates for example, or of certain reactions involving siloxanes. In another particular case, a molecule present in the ambient air is used as reagent or catalyst. Typically, the oxygen involved in the crosslinking reaction of certain oils such as drying oils, and in particular drying vegetable oils such as linseed oil, Chinese Wood (or Canton) oil. Oitica oil, vernonia oil, flaxseed oil, pomegranate oil. calendula oil. or alkyd resins. The reactions can be accelerated by the use of catalysts, such as salts of cobalt, manganese, calcium, zirconium, zinc, strontium, lead. lithium, iron, cerium, barium, tin, in the form for example octoate, linoleate, or octanoate. In another particular case, molecules are used which by rearrangement. will bind to each other. Thus, molecules bearing an internal disulfide can be used. By opening the internal disulfide and reacting these disulfides. new covalent bonds between the molecules can be created. Catalysts can be used to accelerate the reactions. For example. metal salts such as manganese, copper, iron, platinum, titanates, or enzymes such as oxidases or laccases. In the case of chemical functions reacting on another function of the same nature or not, several modes of application are possible. For example, all the reactive ingredients are integrated into the thermally stable photochromic composition, or all the ingredients are integrated into the thermally stable photochromic composition except for one or more compounds, for example either one of the compounds or a catalyst. None of the ingredients can be integrated into the thermally stable photochromic composition. all being applied in one or more times, after application of the thermally stable photochromic composition, and preferably after completion of the light-sensitive makeup. Physical Crosslinking Crosslinking can be physical, with ingredients that can create strong physical bonds between molecules and give the final material water resistance. These non-covalent bonds are of ionic or hydrogen type. For exemple. mention may be made of mixtures with a type di or polyvalent salt. for example calcium, zinc, strontium or aluminum. For example, a compound A may be mixed as an alginate derivative and a compound B as a calcium salt. The alginate derivative is for example contained in the thermally stable photochromic composition. We apply in a second time. in the form of a spray, for example. an aqueous solution of calcium chloride to cause the crosslinking. Mention may also be made of molecules capable of creating strong hydrogen bonds, such as, for example, polysiloxane / polyurea block copolymers, and in particular those of the following formulas: ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## R> u r. Where: R represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 20 carbon atoms. may be substituted by one or more fluorine or chlorine atoms. . X represents an alkylene radical having 1 to 20 carbon atoms. in which non-neighboring methylene units may be replaced by -O- radicals. - A represents an oxygen atom or an amino-NR'- radical. Z represents an oxygen atom or an amino radical -NR '-, - R' represents hydrogen or an alkyl radical having 1 to 10 carbon atoms, - Y represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, optionally substituted with fluorine or chlorine, having 1 to 20 carbon atoms, - D represents an alkylene radical, optionally substituted by fluorine, chlorine. C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 alkyl ester having 1 to 700 carbon atoms. in which non-neighboring methylene units may be replaced by -O- radicals. -COO-. - OCO- or -OCOO-, n is a number from 1 to 4000, - a is a number of at least 1, b is a number from 0 to 40, - c is a number from 0 to 30, and - d is a number greater than 0. Details of the functions, the commercially accessible molecules and the conditions of use are given in patent EP 759 812. Crosslinking compounds leading to the formation of a specially resistant coating either by chemical or physical crosslinking, one can choose the crosslinking compounds to ensure the best possible resistance, especially to water and moisture. Thus, one can achieve very hydrophobic coatings and this, in particular to treat body parts that sweat the most, such as the bust or armpits for example. For example, a first reactive ingredient FA of the polyol type is employed. as for example a cellulose derivative, and a second reactive ingredient FB, type 74 perfluoroalkyltriethoxysilane. In this case, the application is made in two stages. The polyol is introduced into the thermally stable photochromic composition. A coating composition containing the ingredient FB is applied to the thermally stable photochromic composition.

For example again, a system capable of giving a crosslinked coating is employed. and also containing hydrophobic particles. An illustration of these associations is the combination of hydrophobic particles with condensation or hydrosilylation technologies as described in patent FR 2 910 315. The solid particles that can be used can be of inorganic or organic origin, porous or non-porous. colored or unstained. They can be of any morphology. preferably spherical. The particles may be naturally hydrophobic, which is the case of PTFE powder for example, or may be rendered hydrophobic by coatings, in particular hydrocarbon-based, silicone-coated coatings. fluorinated or fluorosilicone. It is also possible to produce coatings giving rise to better resistance to sebum and to fatty substances, based on oxide or zinc salts, for example, or coatings made more resistant to elongation or tearing. These enhancements may be useful for applications on the most motion-prone parts of the body. such as the lips. hands, armpits, neck or any areas close to the joints.

Resistance to elongation can be achieved by the use of crosslinking ingredients giving for example an elastomeric material. Non-reactive compounds can also be incorporated into the composition (s). providing an elastomeric character, for example an elastomeric polymer such as a natural deproteinized latex, or fibers.

A special case is to impregnate with the crosslinking ingredients a woven or non-woven fabric. It can be affixed to the skin, before during or after the application of the light-sensitive makeup composition. a woven or non-woven fabric. Impregnation of the composition in the fabric provides mechanical strength. A combination of tissue and light-sensitive makeup composition can also be achieved, and then, once performed, apply it to the skin, with or without the aid of an adhesive.

It is possible to incorporate in the compositions lubricant active agents and in particular solid lubricating active agents such as boron or aluminum nitride, for example. It is also possible to integrate solid charges, and in particular hydrophilic or hydrophilic fillers, such as particles of metal oxide, of metal hydroxides, of metal carbonates or of organic particles. These fillers can confer additional resistance to abrasion. Wear layer cover layer The cover layer may form the mechanical protection material over the thermally stable photochromic composition layer and act as a wear layer. In this case, the coating layer is advantageously cohesive after evaporation of the possible solvents and can be applied before or after the irradiation. Cohesive means that the layer is resistant to contact. For example, when approaching a flat probe of 1 cm 2 of surface of the coating layer, so that it comes into contact with a pressure of 10 N / cm 2, then removed after a time of contact 5 seconds the probe, it should not lead to material. Thus, oily compounds are excluded. The coating layer is not tacky once the solvents are evaporated. By non-sticky is meant that the layer does not offer resistance to shrinkage. For example, if a flat surface probe of 1 cm 2 is approached to the layer so that it comes into contact with a pressure of 10 N / cm 2, then it is removed after a contact time of 5 seconds, this must not require a resistance force at the moment of withdrawal. Thus, the so-called PSA (pressure sensitive adhesive) compounds are excluded. The material forming the coating layer may have a modulus of elasticity less than 500 MPa and greater than 100 kPa, preferably between 200 MPa and 1 MPa. Its average thickness is at least 1 m, if possible at least 2 μm if the material has a modulus of elasticity greater than 10 MPa. Its average thickness is at least 2 m, if possible at least 5 gm if the material has a modulus of elasticity of less than 10 MPa. In the case where the material forming the coating layer is elastomeric, that is to say having a maximum deformation of at least 400% before rupture and having an elastic recovery of at least 90% after a waiting time by 1 minute, the average thickness is preferably at least 1 m, even if the modulus of elasticity is less than 10 MPa. Elastic recovery is understood to mean the level of return to its initial length, of a test piece after a tension of 40% then relaxation of the stress. Thus, if the initial length of the specimen is LO, and the length after tension of 40% and relaxation of the stress is L (t), the recovery R (t) at time t, counted after relaxation, is equal at: 100 * (1- (L (t) -L0) / LO) 10.4). Thus, if L (t) = LO, then R (t) = 100.

If L (t) = 1.4 * L0, then R (t) = 0 The recovery test is carried out by first preparing a specimen about 200 m thick, 6 cm long, and 1 cm wide. If necessary, the test piece is optionally made on a support film whose mechanical impact is considered to be low with respect to the mechanical properties of the test piece.

The test piece is subjected to a tension of 40% of its length at a speed of 0.1 mm / s. Then the constraint is released and wait 1 minute. Preferably, the coating layer is applied with a majority solvent different from that used for the thermally stable photochromic composition layer. However, this condition can be circumvented especially in the case of the use, for the thermally stable photochromic composition layer, of crosslinking or coalescing compounds. For example, if the thermally stable photochromic composition layer contains a latex of Tg <40 ° C and water for example, the coating layer may also be water-based.

If the thermally stable photochromic composition layer contains a solvent and a compound capable of crosslinking, such as those described above, the coating layer may contain the same solvent. To assist in the proper production of the coating layer, it is possible to provide, before its application, a light irradiation or heat, for example. It is also possible to deposit an intermediate layer made, for example, of a resin or any other adhesion-promoting product, for example an adhesive or certain powders, especially those which, by their particle size, help the upper layer to grip.

After the application of the coating layer, it is possible to provide light irradiation or heat. The coating layer can be removed gradually. So. the light-sensitive makeup layer is not altered over time and allows the light-sensitive makeup to retain all its precision. Ingredients of the Wear-Coating Layer The compounds which can be used in the production of such a coating layer are polymers, for example poly (meth) acrylics, poly (meth) acrylates, polyurethanes, polyesters, polystyrenes or copolymers in soluble or dispersed form, for example selected from Mexomer, ultrahold Strong DR 25, 28-29-30, Gantrez, Amerhold DR 25, amphomer, Luviset Si Pure. AQ 38 or AQ 48. Polymers may carry side or end groups to adjust their hardness. For example. the material forming the covering layer may comprise acrylate polymers with silicone functions, such as VS 80 for example. The polymers may be natural polymers or modified natural polymers. for example polyosic polymers, such as guar gums. locust bean gums, cellulose derivatives, such as HPMCP or proteins. The polymers may be hydrocarbon polymers.

The polymers may be silicones, such as silicone gums, for example. Since most polymers do not always have the intrinsic qualities to give the required time, it may be useful to add a plasticizer. In addition to the plasticizers usually used, for example tripropylene glycol glycol monomethyl ether ether (named PPG3 methyl ether by Dow Chemical) or glycerin, certain non-volatile solvents, such as propylene carbonate, alcohols may be included. silicone or carbon oils. The amounts of plasticizers are calculated according to the polymer and its intrinsic qualities. Typically (% by weight of polymer): Glycol Ether Glycerin Ultrahold Strong (BASE) 5% 10% Mexomer (Chimex) 4% 8% 79 AQ 48 (Eastman Chemicals) 1% 2% Luviset Si Pure (BASF) 3 % 5% VS 80 (3M) 5% 10% Particles may be included in the composition. mineral or organic. can prolong the life of the wear layer without losing its qualities. Particles do not cause tightness of the skin. but may cause flaking phenomena or the appearance of pellets. Thus, preferably, it does not exceed a mass concentration of 40% in particles (coalescer particles not included).

Rheology agents assisting the application may be included. It is also possible to include spreading agents such as surfactants or certain solvents with a boiling point of between 80 and 200 ° C. These solvents have the advantage of slowing down the setting of the composition while eliminating over time.

Concentrations and thicknesses after drying The concentrations of the various ingredients can be adjusted so that the thicknesses after drying are, given the quantities applied, in accordance with the specifications given above. For example, assuming that 20 mg / cm 2 of fluid composition to be spread is applied, that the composition contains 10% dry matter, it can be deposited about 2 mg / cm 2. If the density is about 1. this corresponds to a thickness of about 20 m. In another example, if it is assumed that a 30% aerosol composition containing 20% of dry matter is sprayed at 30 cm from the face for 4 seconds, approximately 0.4 g per 400 cm 2, ie 1 mg per cm 2, will be deposited. If the density is about 1, the thickness of the layer thus deposited will be about 10 m. Thus, according to the modes of application and dosage forms, the concentrations of dry matter can range from 1 to 50%. The coating composition can be dry. Other ingredients In addition to the ingredients already mentioned. each composition may contain ingredients allowing or aiding the spreading on the keratin materials, more particularly the skin, causing a care, a comfort, for example an odor or a softness, helping the elimination at the time of the washing, for example a or more surfactants, limiting the penetration of ingredients into the skin, for example astringents, or bringing other cosmetic features, for example hydration. color, gloss and / or limiting the impacts of UV filtration. for example a self-tanning agent or a vitamin D activator.

Make-up removal During make-up removal, the user can leave traces of thermally stable, unrevealed photochromic composition. However, these traces may be brought to reveal later, for example after a few hours spent in the ambient light. At this time, it may be difficult for the user to carry out a makeup removal supplement. To remedy this problem, it may be advantageous to apply during or after makeup removal, at least one optical agent forming screen at least one wavelength 2 for revealing the thermally stable photochromic composition. Such an optical agent can be reapplied several times in succession, if necessary.

The optical agent may belong to a makeup remover composition. The makeup-removing composition may be a conventional make-up removal product based on surfactants, or a special make-up remover suitable for the compounds of the thermally stable photochromic composition, and may comprise a solvent, for example ethyl or butyl acetate. acetone, ethanol and mixtures thereof. and more generally any solvent selected from cosmetically acceptable organic solvents (tolerance, toxicology and acceptable touch). These organic solvents may represent from 0% to 98% of the total weight of the composition. They may be selected from the group consisting of hydrophilic organic solvents. lipophilic organic solvents, amphiphilic solvents or mixtures thereof. Among the hydrophilic organic solvents. mention may be made, for example, of linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or propanol. butanol, isopropanol, isobutanol; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxides polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol. sorbitol; mono- or di-alkyl of isosorbide whose alkyl groups have from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; glycol ethers such as diethylene glycol mono-methyl or mono-ethyl ether and propylene glycol ethers such as dipropylene glycol methyl ether. As amphiphilic organic solvents, mention may be made of polyols such as polypropylene glycol (PPG) derivatives such as the esters of polypropylene glycol and of fatty acid, of PPG and of fatty alcohol such as PPG-23 oleyl ether and PPG. 36 oleate. Examples of lipophilic organic solvents that may be mentioned include fatty esters such as diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, alkyl benzoates, isopropyl myristate and isopropyl palmitate. butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl hexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, 2-octyl myristate dodecyl, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate. 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, glycerin triisostearate, diglycerin triisostearate. The makeup removal composition may further comprise: an oil. for example in the form of microemulsion, - a pH agent if the compound (s) used to maintain the photochromic agent or agents on the skin are sensitive to pH, which is the case of carbopol for example, or - an ionic liquid. Among the anionic surfactants which may be used alone or as a mixture in the makeup-removing composition, mention may in particular be made of alkaline salts and ammonium salts. amine salts or aminoalcohol salts of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl sulphates and ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates. alkyl sulphonates, alkyl sulphonates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, α-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl ether sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphosuccinates, alkyl sulphosuccinamates, alkyl sulphoacetates, alkyl polyglycerol carboxylates, alkyl phosphates / alkyl ether phosphates, acylsarcosinates, alkylpolypeptides. alkylamidopolypeptidates, acylisethionates. alcoyllaurates.

The alkyl or acyl radical in all these compounds generally refers to a chain of 12 to 18 carbon atoms. There may also be mentioned soaps and salts of fatty acids such as oleic acids. ricinoleic, palmitic, stearic acid, coconut oil acids or hydrogenated coconut oil and especially amine salts such as amine stearates; acyl lactylates, the acyl radical of which comprises 8-20 carbon atoms; carboxylic acids of polyglycol ethers having the formula: Alk - ('OCH2-CH2), - OCH2-COOH in acidic or salified form where the substituent Alk corresponds to a linear chain having from 12 to 18 carbon atoms and where n is an integer between 5 and 15. Among the nonionic surfactants which can be used alone or in a mixture, there may be mentioned in particular: polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, alkyl phenols and fatty acids containing 8 at 18 carbon atoms; copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated fatty amides, polyethoxylated fatty amines, ethanolamides, glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid esters of oxyethylenated or unsubstituted sorbitan, fatty acid esters of sucrose. polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, phosphoric triesters, fatty acid esters of glucose derivatives; the alkylpolyglycosides and alkylamides of the amino sugars: the condensation products of an α-diol, a monoalcohol, an alkylphenol. an amide or diglycolamide with glycidol or a glycidol precursor. The makeup removal composition which contains the optical agent can be formulated so as to allow the optical agent to be deposited at the time of rinsing, for example by coacervation effect, this effect being obtainable for example by using surfactants and polymers. ionicity complementary, for example PC / PA, TC / TA, TC / PA. TA / PC, optionally with amphoteric and nonionic surfactants to facilitate deposition. PCs are typically compounds such as cationic guar gums (Jaguar C13S for example) or artificial compounds, such as JR 400 or ionene. TCs are typically quaternary chain compounds (and especially trimethylammonium groups) and fatty chain (C6 to C30). PAs may be multianionic polymers such as acrylate or methacrylate polymers or copolymers or polymers with sulfonic groups. TAs are anionic surfactants such as carboxylic or sulfate or sulfonic surfactants (LES, LS). The makeup removing composition may be applied using any suitable support, in particular capable of absorbing it, for example a fibrous makeup remover, for example a woven or non-woven fabric, a felt. wadding, a flocked film, a sponge. a wipe, the support used for removing makeup is advantageously removed after the makeup operation. The make-up removing composition can be contained in a container and removed as and when each makeup removal. In a variant, the make-up removal composition impregnates the support used for removing makeup, the support being able to be in this case packaged for example in a sealed package. After the use of the make-up removing composition, the keratin materials may not be rinsed. In a variant. they can be. The rinsing can be carried out for example with running water, without adding a soap.

Examples proposed (the proportions expressed are by weight) Formula 1 (photochromic composition): diarylethene * (trade name DAE-TZ produced by the company Yamada Chemical (Japan)): 0.4% - PMMA (Methyl Methacrylate Polymer sold by the company Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd (Japan)): 10% - acetone: qsp 10025 Formula 2 (cleansing composition with sunscreen): Copolymer (90/10 mol) 0.5% MA of acrylamide and dimethylamino ethyl quaternized with chlorine benzyl (MW> 5.106) dispersed in concentrated aqueous salt solution (ULTIMER from ONDEO)

Sodium laurel ether sulphate 2.2 12% MA 10 moles of ethylene oxide 26% MA

Sodium Sodium Coco Amphodiacetate 2% MA Polyquaternium-10

Polyquaternium-6 0.1% (Merquat 100 from NALCO)

Parsol 1789 5% Ethanol 1% 20 NaCl 2% Citric acid or NaOH qs pH 6.5 Water qsl00%

Formula 3 Copolymer (90/10 by mole) 0.5% MA of acrylamide and dimethylaminoethyl quaternized with benzyl chloride (MW> 5.106) dispersed in concentrated aqueous salt solution (ULTIMER from ONDEO) 85 Sodium lauryl ether sulphate at 2.2 12% MA moles of ethylene oxide at 26% MA 2% MA Di sodium Coco amphodiacetate Polyquaternium-1 0 Polyquaternium-6 0.1% (Merquat 100 from NALCO) Ethanol 1% NaCl 2% Citric acid or NaOH qs pH 6.5 Water gsl00% Negative A negative for the light-sensitive makeup can be created as follows. We make a PowerPoint file representing a checkerboard where each square is about 3 mm side. Then we print this file on a transparency with a laser printer. Transparency when not printed allows UV to pass through the UVA activation band around 365 nm. Irradiator The UV irradiator used is for example a Wood lamp, sold by Bioblock Scientific. reference VL 6L which delivers approximately 6W over approximately 75 cm, around 365 nm. The power received, measured with a wattmeter, is 2.25 mW per cm to 3 cm from the device. Support A polyurethane white material representing the texture of the skin, marketed by the company Beaulax, under the trademark Bioskin ref #white 061031-2.30 Assays Test 1 A light-sensitive makeup is carried out by applying formula 1 (0.1 g of composition per cm`). The composition is applied over the entire surface. After drying, the support is irradiated through the negative. Let it sit for 3 hours. It removes makeup by applying formula 3 with a cleansing cotton. Test 2 The same light-sensitive makeup is carried out as in test 1, with the difference that it is removed with formula 2.

After having left the cleansed support in the external light, it is found that in the case of the test 1 traces of photochromic agent appeared, while the support remained visually intact in the case of the test 2. Of course the invention is not limited to the examples described. In particular. other areas of the body than the face can be treated. All examples referring to a facial treatment are also worth to treat other regions. The phrase having one must be understood as being synonymous with having at least one.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for removing make-up from keratin materials made up with a thermally stable photochromic composition which can be exposed by irradiation at at least one wavelength X, in which, during or after makeup removal, it is applied. at least one optical agent forming a screen at least the wavelength X. 2. Method according to claim 1, the optical agent being applied after makeup removal. 3. Method according to claim 1, the optical agent used in the formulation of a makeup removal composition used for removing make-up. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims. The wavelength ?. belonging to the UV spectrum, especially in the range from 320 nm to 400 nm. The method of any of the preceding claims, the thermally stable photochromic composition comprising a thermally stable photochromic agent. preferably selected from diarylethenes and fulgides. 6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims. the keratin materials not being washed within one hour after the application of the optical agent. 7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, the optical agent being contained in a composition in a form causing it to be deposited during rinsing. in particular by a phenomenon of coacervation or physicochemical affinity of one or more of the ingredients for the skin The method of any one of claims 1 to 7 wherein the thermally stable photochromic composition is photocrosslinkable and wherein the makeup is removed to remove the thermally stable photochromic composition in areas where it is not crosslinked. 9. The method of claim 3, the makeup removing composition having a filtering power F vis-à-vis solar radiation of at least 2, better 5, even better 10. An assembly comprising, within the same package: a first thermally stable photochromic composition for producing a light-sensitive makeup-light-sensitive makeup at a wavelength 2a and a second composition capable of removing the former and comprising a optical agent forming a screen at wavelength 2. 11. The assembly of claim 10, comprising a light source emitting at least at the wavelength 24 to reveal possible traces of thermally stable photochromic composition. 12. The assembly of claim 10 or 11, the thermally stable photochromic composition comprising a thermally stable photochromic agent. 13. The assembly of claim 12, the photochromic agent being selected from diarylethenes and fulgides. 14. The assembly of any one of claims 10 to 13. the second composition comprising a surfactant. 15. An assembly according to any one of claims 10 to 14, the first composition being photocrosslinkable.