FR2940114A1 - Kit, useful e.g. for coating keratin materials, comprises a composition comprising protein, and at least one second composition comprising e.g. aldehydes, acid anhydrides, isocyanate, thioisocyanate and azide - Google Patents

Abstract

Kit comprises: at least a first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y1, where the: compound X is a protein; compounds X and Y1 are reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic complexing or in-situ dative, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature to form a film; and first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and/or pearls, in an amount of at least 5 wt.% with respect to the total weight of the composition. Kit comprises: at least a first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y1, where the: compound X is a protein; compounds X and Y1 are reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic complexing or in-situ dative, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature to form a film; first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and/or pearls, in an amount of at least 5 wt.% with respect to the total weight of the composition; and the compound X is present at at least 1 wt.%. Independent claims are included for: (1) cosmetic process for coating keratin materials comprising: (a) mixing extemporaneously at least a first composition and second composition; and (b) applying to the keratin materials at least one layer of the mixture; and (2) a process for cleansing and/or cleaning makeup film formed by the application, on the keratin materials, by at least one composition, of at least one compound X and at least complexing agent Y1, comprising at least one step of application on the makeup films, of a composition of cleansing and/or cleaning comprising, in a medium, at least one sequestrant of the complexing agent Y1, for dissolving the film.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic product, in particular a non-therapeutic make-up or care product for keratinous materials comprising at least two compounds X and Y, capable of reacting together, at least one of the compounds being a protein.

The products according to the invention may be make-up or skincare products for keratin materials, in particular skin, lips, eyelashes, eyebrows or nails. In particular, the product according to the invention can be a foundation, a blush or an eyeshadow, a concealer, a blush, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a lip pencil or with eyes, a mascara, an eyeliner or a product of body make-up, skin coloring, or care such as a care cream, a tinted cream, or a solar product

Makeup compositions such as lipsticks and foundations are commonly used to bring an aesthetic color to the lips or to the skin, especially to the face, or to camouflage skin discolorations. These makeup products generally contain water or a hydrophilic phase, fatty substances such as waxes and / or oils, and a particulate phase generally composed of fillers and / or pigments.

These compositions, when they are applied to the skin, have the disadvantage of transferring, that is to say of being deposited at least in part, leaving traces, on certain supports with which they can be put in contact with each other. and especially a glass, a cup, a cigarette, a garment or the skin. It follows a poor persistence of the applied film, requiring regular renewal of the application of the foundation composition or lipstick. These transfer problems are all the more important that the compositions comprise a high content of pigments, which is the case when the compositions are intended to mask dyschromias, problems of damaged skin, or imperfections of relief such as wrinkles or scars. Moreover, the appearance of these unacceptable traces especially on the blouse collar can exclude some women from the use of this type of makeup.

Cosmetic so-called non-transfer compositions are thus sought which have the advantage of forming a deposit which does not transfer, at least in part, onto the supports with which they are brought into contact (glass, clothing, cigarette, tissues) and presenting a good behavior over time, especially color in the case of a

2 makeup product. Better still, we seek compositions whose holding properties and non-transfer can be controlled over time, that is to say, compositions having optimal hold during the day, and can be removed without effort effortlessly to any time.

To limit the transfer of cosmetic compositions, it is known to use volatile oils. These volatile oils, when present in large quantities, make the makeup product, such as the foundation or the lipstick, uncomfortable for the user: after evaporation of the oil, the makeup deposit gives a feeling of drying and tugging.

In the field of compositions for coating eyelashes or mascaras, it is known in particular anhydrous mascaras or low water content and / or water-soluble solvents, so-called waterproof mascaras, formulated as a dispersion of waxes in non-aqueous solvents and which have good resistance to water and / or sebum. However, the makeup film obtained after the application of these compositions is not sufficiently resistant to water, for bathing or showers for example, with tears or sweat. The mascara then tends to crumble in time: grains are deposited and unsightly marks appear around the eyes.

The object of the present invention is to provide a novel way of formulating cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up or care compositions, making it possible to obtain a film deposited on keratin materials having good non-transfer properties, good holding properties in the time, especially with water and friction, and conferring a comfortable deposit on the skin, lips, eyelashes or nails. The inventors have discovered that it is possible to obtain such properties by using a system comprising a protein (compound X) and a chemical crosslinking agent or an ionic or dative complexing agent (compound Y) which polymerize in situ, at atmospheric pressure. and at a temperature chosen according to the system in question, so as to form a film adhering to the keratin materials without being tacky, said film may even be peelable under certain conditions. These compounds also have the advantage of being of natural origin.

Polymeric films formed in situ on keratin materials have very good adhesion, water resistance or sebum properties, mechanical resistance to friction, and comfort.

In addition, these compositions may have second skin characteristics, in that the deposition on the keratin materials is obtained by an in situ reaction, directly on the skin. The resulting film adapts perfectly to the morphology of the skin. Finally, it is possible for the user to modulate the thickness of the deposit formed when it wants to camouflage irregularities of relief of the skin such as wrinkles or fine lines. Before being applied to keratin materials, compounds X and Y may be present in the same composition or in two different compositions called first and second compositions.

In the case where the compounds X and Y are present within the same composition, they will be in conditions capable of forming a film only after application to the keratin materials.

According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprising at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by crosslinking reaction chemical or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) after application of said composition on said keratinous material so as to form a film. According to this alternative, the film is formed after application of said composition to the keratin materials, in particular the skin, and evaporation of the continuous aqueous phase.

According to one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprises (i) at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or complexation ionic or dative in situ after application of said composition to the keratin materials, and (ii) at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprises at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the compound X being a protein, the said compounds X and Y reacting together by reaction of chemical crosslinking or ionic complexation or dative in situ after application of said composition on keratin materials, and said compound X being present in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

Alternatively, compound X and compound Y are applied via at least two separate compositions, each comprising one of the compounds.

This is why the subject of the present invention is, according to a second aspect, a keratin material coating kit comprising: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the kit for coating keratin materials according to the invention comprises: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical cross-linking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to another particular embodiment, the kit for coating keratin materials according to the invention comprises. at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical cross-linking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, and and said compound X being present in a content of at least 1% by weight based on the weight of the first composition or with respect to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition.

According to one embodiment, the kit further comprises a third composition intended to eliminate the coating obtained on the keratin materials by reaction of compounds X and Y.

In the case where the compound Y is an agent for complexing said protein, a sequestering agent of said complexing agent may be used. Examples of such sequestering agents are given below.

According to an alternative, the film obtained on the keratin materials is peelable. Preferably, the first composition comprising compound X and the second composition comprising compound Y are packaged in separate packages.

Each composition may be packaged separately in the same packaging article, for example a packaging and dispensing device being arranged to separately store the first and second compositions and comprising an adjustment member allowing a user to vary the relative proportion of the composition. at least one composition in the mixture obtained, said relative proportion conditioning the properties of the mixture obtained, for example the properties of non-transfer or comfort.

Alternatively, each of the first and second compositions may be packaged in a different packaging article. According to one embodiment, at least one additional layer of at least one third composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, and

Preferably, at least one film-forming polymer and at least one organic (or oily) or aqueous solvent medium is applied to the layer (s) of the composition (s) comprising compounds X and Y in order, for example, to improve the hold, the gloss. , non transfer and / or comfort, of that (s).

The subject of the invention is also, according to a third aspect, a cosmetic process for coating keratinous substances consisting of: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction (or ionic or dative complexation) in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture.

According to one embodiment, the cosmetic process for coating keratin materials according to the invention consists in: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture.

According to another embodiment, the cosmetic process for coating keratin materials according to the invention consists in: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y;

Compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by ionic or dative complexation chemical crosslinking reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition in a content such that it is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition. then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture.

Alternatively, compound X and compound Y are applied via at least two separate compositions, each comprising one of the compounds.

This is why the present invention also relates to a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials, the method comprising applying to said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film.

According to one embodiment, a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials according to the invention comprises the application on said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by a reaction of chemical crosslinking or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to one embodiment, a cosmetic process for coating keratin materials according to the invention comprises the application on said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical cross-linking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition in a content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said first composition.

According to this method, it is possible to apply at least one layer of the first composition comprising the compound X to the keratin materials, and then to deposit on the layer or layers of said first composition at least one layer of the second composition comprising the compound Y.

According to one variant, the process consists in applying at least one layer of the second composition comprising the compound Y to the keratin materials, and then depositing on the layer or layers of said second composition at least one layer of the first composition comprising the compound X .

It is also possible to alternately apply to the keratin materials several layers of each of the first and second compositions.

The invention also relates to a process for removing make-up and / or cleaning makeup films formed by the application, on the keratin materials, via at least one composition, of at least one compound X and at least one complexing agent Y, said compounds X and Y being capable of forming, by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ at atmospheric pressure and at ambient temperature, a film, the process comprising at least one step of applying to said makeup films, a composition removing makeup and / or cleaning comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one sequestering agent of said complexing agent intended to dissolve said film.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition or a kit as described above, for obtaining a film deposited on keratinous substances, having holding, non-transfer and / or comfort properties. improved. Of course, each composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, ie a non-toxic medium that can be applied to human keratin materials and has a pleasant appearance, odor and feel.

I. Proteins

The proteins used according to the invention are those commonly used in cosmetics or dermatology. They are of plant or animal origin, hydrolysed or not hydrolyzed. Proteins are complex organic compounds present in all living cells and forming the most abundant class of all biological molecules. Proteins are large molecules with high molecular weights, composed of varying amounts of the same amino acids, which in the intact protein are joined by covalent chemical bonds called peptide bonds. A protein with a molecular weight of 100,000 would contain about 850 amino acid residues. At least twenty of these amino acids are present in plant or animal proteins.

Amino acids are classified as essential (essential) or conditionally essential (conditionally indispensable) elements. Amino acids, bound together, form linear unbranched polymeric structures called polypeptide chains. Such chains may contain hundreds of amino acid residues, arranged in a specific order for a given protein. The reaction between amino acids to form a peptide bond is shown in the following scheme: ## EQU1 ##

Depending on the source, the protein has a chemical structure and a combination of different amino acids. Each protein molecule has a characteristic three-dimensional shape or conformation that determines its properties.

Proteins and hydrolysates of proteins of plant origin, can be in particular extracts of cereals (wheat germ, wheat, rice, rye, corn, millet, barley, oats, ...), legumes (soy, lentil, bean) white, chickpea, dry bean, pea, ..), and oilseeds or sprouted seeds (extracts of corn, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelled, pea, bean, lentil, soy and lupine, sprouted wheat, fenugreek, sunflower, alfalfa ...). These polymers of vegetable origin must have at least a fraction of molecular weight greater than 670,000 daltons. Suitable proteins include, for example, the soy protein extract sold by ISD under the name Profam 972 and the protein fraction of white lupine.

Among the plant proteins that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: - soy proteins such as the products sold under the name Eleseryl by the company LSN, or under the name ProFuIITM or ProliaTM by the company Cargill. wheat proteins such as the hydrolysates sold under the name TRITISOL by the company CRODA or those sold under the name VEGESERYL by the company LSN; oat proteins, such as the product REDUCTINE sold by the company SILAB; pea proteins such as the ETIVAL product sold by COLETICA.

The proteins may also be of animal origin, for example derived from egg (ovalbumin), milk (serum proteins, such as 13-lactoglobulin or lactalbumin, or casein proteins), meat (collagen, gelatin, in particular beef , pork or fish, horse serum, elastin).

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, collagen or gelatin is used as compound X. As examples of gelatins, mention may be made of gelatin marketed by GELATINA under the Gelatina gelatin reference, or Rousselot PS from Rousselot. The proteins (compound X) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and better from 1 to 10% by weight.

11

II. The chemical crosslinking agent or ionic or dative complexation (compound Y)

The chemical crosslinking agent or ionic or dative complexation (compound Y) may belong to the group of aldehydes, anhydrous acids, isocyanates, thioisocyanates, azides, azolides, carboimides, epoxides, esters, glycidyl ethers, halogens, imidazoles, imidates, succinimides , succinimidyl esters, and hydrocolloids.

Mention may in particular be made by way of examples of the following chemical or ionic or dative complexing agents: aldehydes, in particular glutaraldehyde (OHC- (CH 2) 3 -CHO), formaldehyde, polysaccharides, modified or otherwise such as oxidized starch, oxidized amylose, pectin, in particular low-methylated pectin, xanthan gum or kappa-carrageenans.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the compound Y is a chemical crosslinking agent, capable of allowing the formation of covalent bonds between one or more functions of the protein chain (X) and the reactive entities of the screening agent. crosslinking Y (ex: formation of amide, amine, ester, ether, urethane, urea, Schiff base ...) functions.

According to a preferred embodiment, the combinations of protein and chemical crosslinking agent or of ionic or dative complexation can in particular be: - serum proteins (whey) with xanthan (ionic complexation) - caseins with pectin HM ( ionic complexation) - Gelatin or collagen with oxidized starch (chemical crosslinking) - casein or gelatin with kapa carrageenan.

As an example of oxidized starch or amylose, it is possible in particular to use an oxidized starch or amylose substituted with one or more aldehyde groups (CHO) and optionally one or more carboxyl groups (COOH). The oxidation can be carried out according to a process known in the art, for example according to the process described in patent FR 2842200 or FR 2854161 or in the article Hydrophobic films from maize bran hemicelluloses of E. Fredon et al., Carbohydrate Polymers 49, 2002, pp. 1-12, Industrial Crops and Products 7, 1997, pp. 45-52. These oxidation processes are simple to implement, effective, do not generate toxic byproducts or difficult to eliminate.

Among these oxidation processes, one of the preferred ones is that described in application FR2842200. In this process, a glucose unit polysaccharide is subjected to the action of a peroxide, preferably hydrogen peroxide and in the presence of a phthalocyanine-metal catalyst complex.

In a particular embodiment, a tetrasulfophthalocyanine, designated FePcS, is used as the catalyst. In particular, corn amylose, potato starch, wheat or rice starch are used.

The chemical crosslinking agent or ionic or dative complexation agent (Y) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition, preferably from 1% to 90% and more preferably from 2% to 50%.

In the case where the compound (s) X and / or Y are in gelled form at ambient temperature, a heating step may be necessary to fluidify them before mixing.

Aqueous phase

According to one particular embodiment, at least one of the first or second compositions according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

In particular, the composition (s) according to the invention comprises (nen) t an aqueous phase.

The composition (s) according to the invention comprises (nen) t water. The water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, water of 3o LUCAS or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water.

The composition (s) according to the invention may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature - 25 ° C.), for example monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol. The polyols having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as

Glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tri propylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene alkyl (C1-C4) ethers; glycol, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fraction of the aqueous phase comprises in particular water and organic solvents miscible with water.

Preferably, the aqueous phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight. and preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight.

Hydrophilic gelling agent

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent distinct from the polysaccharides described above.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose a gelling agent that will not interact with the polysaccharide and / or the complexing agent already present in the composition.

The hydrophilic gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be chosen from: homo or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular the products sold under the names VERSICOL F or VERSICOL K by the method ALLIED COLLOID company, UTRAHOLD 8 by the company CIBAGEIGY, SYNTHALEN K type polyacrylic acids, acrylic acid and acrylamide copolymers sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names RETEN by the company HERCULES, polymethacrylate of sodium sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by the company Vanderbilt, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name HYDAGEN F by the company HENKEL, - the polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers of PEMULEN type, - AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT,

The AMPS / acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC, and the polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or otherwise), proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as the proteins of wheat, soy; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as the quaternized derivatives of cellulose; polymers of natural origin, which may be modified, such as: arabic gums, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum, alginates and carrageenans (the alginates being preferably used in the presence of salts such as calcium chloride), glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals, muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; deoxyribonucleic acid; unmodified clays, in particular montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones and laponites, and mixtures thereof.

Some of these water-soluble gelling agents may also act as film-forming polymers.

The water-soluble gelling polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight. % by weight, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight. Circe phase 35

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase comprising an oily phase.

By oily phase is meant all the oils present in the composition. The oily phase may comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and their mixture.

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile oil.

By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mm Hg) at ambient temperature ( 25 ° C). These non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms. The non-volatile oils may in particular be chosen from fluorinated hydrocarbon oils which may be fluorinated and / or non-volatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: - hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or of octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor oil, shea butter avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof,

synthetic esters, such as oils of formula RICOOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl palmitate -decyl, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and mixtures thereof.

The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight. The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (0.001 to 300 mm). of Hg) and preferably ranging from 1.3 to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

The volatile oil may be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils, volatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, the volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins), such as isododecane. (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the tradenames of Isopars or Permethyls.

Volatile silicones can also be used as volatile oils, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of <5 centistokes (5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, preferably 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,

Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile fluorinated oil does not usually have a flash point. As fluorinated volatile oil, mention may be made of nonafluoroethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane and dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from from 5% to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 5% to 10% by weight.

The oily phase of the composition (s) according to the invention may be present in a total content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50%. by weight, preferably ranging from 5% to 35% by weight, and more preferably ranging from 10% to 30% by weight.

Structuring agent

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least one structuring agent of liquid fatty phase chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof. waxes

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least one wax.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic fatty compound which is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), with a solid / liquid state change. reversible, having in particular a melting temperature greater than or equal to 30 ° C, in particular greater than or equal to 45 ° C, and up to 250 ° C, in particular up to 230 ° C, and in particular up to 120 ° C. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by restoring 25

At room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixture. The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute. The waxes, within the meaning of the invention, may be those used generally in the cosmetic or dermatological fields. They can in particular be hydrocarbon, silicone and / or fluorinated, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They can also be of natural or synthetic origin.

By way of illustration and not limitation of these waxes, mention may be made in particular of: - beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and concrete glycerides at 40 ° C. and especially at more than 45 ° C., the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, especially hydrogenated jojoba oil. , hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, - silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes, and mixtures thereof Wax (s) (s) may be present in the composition (s) according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 12. % by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 9% by weight. Aras pasty body

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least pasty fatty substance. Pasty fatty substance is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound containing, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

Said pasty compound preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa. The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 ° C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-speed of 1 mm / s and then at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. preferably represents 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 ° C per minute, according to ISO 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g.

The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

Paste bodies are generally hydrocarbon compounds such as lanolins and their derivatives or PDMSs.

Lipophilic gelling agents

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise at least one lipophilic gelling agent. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

As inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, there may be mentioned optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a C 10 -C 22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with di-stearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride such as that, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V by the company ELEMENTIS. It is also possible to mention the optionally hydrophobic fumed silica surface with a particle size of less than 1 μm. It is indeed possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references Aerosil R812 by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-530 by the company CABOT, dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are known as "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the Aerosil R972 references, and Aerosil R974 by the DEGUSSA company, CAB-O-SIL TS-610 and CAB-O-SIL TS-720 by CABOT. The hydrophobic fumed silica has in particular a particle size that can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partially or fully crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes of three-dimensional structure, such as those marketed under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by the company Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C and Trefil E- 506C by DOW-CORNING, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR DMF 10 gel and SR DC 556 gel by GRANT INDUSTRIES, SF 1204 and JK 113 by the GENERAL ELECTRIC company; ethylcellulose such as that sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polycondensates of polyamide type resulting from the condensation between (a) at least one acid selected from dicarboxylic acids comprising at least 32 carbon atoms such as dimeric fatty acids and (R) an alkylene diamine and in particular ethylene diamine, wherein the polyamide polymer comprises at least one terminal carboxylic acid group esterified or amidated with at least one monohydric alcohol or a monoamine comprising from 12 to 30 linear and saturated carbon atoms, and in particular ethylene diamine / dilinoleate copolymers stearyl such as that marketed under the name Uniclear 100 VG by ARIZONA CHEMICAL; silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in the documents US-A-5 874 069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680, for example those sold under the reference Dow Corning 2- 8179 and Dow Corning 2-8178 Gellant by the company Dow Corning; galactomanans having from one to six, and in particular from two to four, hydroxyl groups per sac, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated by C 1 -C 6 alkyl chains, and in particular C, to C3 and mixtures thereof. Block copolymers of the "diblock", "triblock" or "radial" type of the polystyrene / polyisoprene, polystyrene / polybutadiene type, such as those sold under the name Luvitol HSB by the company BASF, of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylenepropylene) type, such as those sold under the name Kraton by Shell Chemical Co., or else of the polystyrene / copoly (ethylene-butylene) type, mixtures of triblock and radial (star) copolymers in isododecane, such as those marketed by PENRECO under the name Versagel name such as the mixture of butylene / ethylene / styrene triblock copolymer and star copolymer ethylene / propylene / styrene in isododecane (Versagel M 5960).

Among the lipophilic gelling agents that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may also be made of dextrin and fatty acid esters, such as dextrin palmitates, in particular such as those marketed under the names Rheopearl

23 TL or Rheopearl KL by the company CHIBA FLOUR.

The structuring agent of the oily phase may be present in the composition (s) according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a content ranging from 0.5% to 7% by weight.

The composition (s) according to the invention may comprise a fatty phase formed of the oils and structuring agents described above, present in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight.

Filmoqene Polymer At least one of the compositions according to the invention may comprise a film-forming polymer. According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

The film-forming polymer may be present in a solids content (or active materials) ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of each composition, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight. and better from 1% to 15% by weight.

Among the film-forming polymers that may be used in the compositions of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates). 3o The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be vinyl polymers, or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers. The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers. As monomers carrying an acid group, unsaturated α, β-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid,

24 crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid. The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl. Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate. Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate. Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate. Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates. According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms. Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate. Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, poly-urethanesulfonylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes,

Polyureas, polyurea polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof. The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen. The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is preferably used. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used. The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO3M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium NH4 'ion or a metal ion, such as for example an Na', Li +, K +, Mg2 + ion. , Cal +, Cul +, Fe2 +, Fei +. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M. The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally bearing a 3o -SO3M group as described above may be chosen, for example, from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid. It is preferred to use isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate-based copolymers, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be selected from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the first and / or second composition; the polymer is solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition.

According to another variant, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer). Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils may be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group). These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl. Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / stearate

Vinyl, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / stearate allyl cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene. Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include liposoluble copolymers, and in particular those resulting from the copolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms. Such liposoluble copolymers may be chosen from copolymers of vinyl polycrystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, copolymers of stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, polyvinylpolate , poly (meth) acrylate lauryl, these poly (meth) acrylates can be crosslinked using dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol. The liposoluble copolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they can have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

Mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms. carbon. As examples of liposoluble homopolymers, there may be mentioned in particular: vinyl polylaurate and lauryl poly (meth) acrylates, these poly (meth) acrylates being capable of being crosslinked by means of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol . According to an advantageous embodiment, the first and / or second composition of the process according to the invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer polyvinyl acetate.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and especially copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or non-saturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical, for example ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still of C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, the

Butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate. Mention may also be made of silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The nomenclature of the silicone resins is known under the name of "MDTQ", the resin being described according to the different siloxane monomeric units that it comprises, each of the letters "MDTQ" characterizing a type of unit. As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: by the company SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L. As siloxysilicate resins, mention may be made of trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins such as those sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning. Mention may also be made of silicone resin copolymers such as those mentioned above with polydimethylsiloxanes, such as the pressure-sensitive adhesive copolymers marketed by Dow Corning under the reference BIO-PSA and described in document US Pat. No. 5,162,410. or the silicone copolymers resulting from the reaction of a silicone resin, such as those described above, and a diorganosiloxane as described in document WO 2004/073626.

It is also possible to use silicone polyamides of the polyorganosiloxane type such as those described in documents US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216 and US-A-5,981,680. These silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, these two groups being located on grafts or branches. According to one embodiment of the invention, the film-forming polymer is a film-forming linear ethylenic block polymer, which preferably comprises at least one

29 first and at least one second sequence having different glass transition temperatures (Tg), said first and second sequences being interconnected by an intermediate sequence comprising at least one constituent monomer of the first sequence and at least one constituent monomer of the second sequence.

Advantageously, the first and second sequences and the block polymer are incompatible with each other. Such polymers are described for example in EP 1411069 or WO04 / 028488.

The film-forming polymer may also be present in the first and / or second composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

As the aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, it is possible to use the acrylic dispersions sold under the names Neocryl XK-90, Neocryl A-1070, Neocryl A-1090, Neocryl BT-62, Neocryl A-1079 and Neocryl A-523 by the company Aveciane Sorresins. Dow Latex 432 by DOW CHEMICAL, Daitosol 5000 AD or Daitosol 5000 SJ by DAITO KASEY KOGYO; Syntran 5760 by the company Interpolymer, Allianz OPT by the company Rohm & Haas, aqueous dispersions of acrylic or styrene / acrylic polymers sold under the trade name JONCRYL by JOHNSON POLYMER or the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the trade names Neorez R-981 and Neorez R-974 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS, Avalure UR-405, Avalure UR-410, Avalure UR-425, Avalure UR-450, Sancure 875, Sancure 861, Sancure 878 and Sancure 2060 by the company GOODRICH, Impranil 85 by the company BAYER, Aquamere H-1511 by the company HYDROMER; the sulpopolyesters sold under the brand name Eastman AQ by Eastman Chemical Products, vinyl dispersions such as Mexomer PAM from Chimex and mixtures thereof.

As examples of non-aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer, mention may be made of acrylic dispersions in isododecane, such as Mexomere PAP from Chimex, particle dispersions of a grafted ethylenic polymer, preferably acrylic polymer, in a liquid fatty phase, the ethylenic polymer being advantageously dispersed in the absence of additional stabilizer at the surface of the particles as described in particular in WO 04/055081.

The compositions according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function. Powdery phase

At least one of the compositions according to the invention comprises a pulverulent phase comprising pigments, fillers and / or nacres.

According to one particular embodiment, this pulverulent phase represents at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.

By pigments, it is necessary to understand particles; mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the composition.

The pigments may be inorganic or organic pigments. As pigments, metal oxides such as iron oxides (especially those of yellow, red, brown, black color), titanium dioxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, chrome; manganese violet, blue ultramarine, prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, and mixtures thereof. It is preferable to use pigments of iron oxides or of titanium dioxide.

The pigments can be treated with a hydrophobic agent to make them compatible with the organic phase of the composition. The hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, hydrogenated tallow glutamate aluminum salt, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkyl silanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, hexafluoropropylene polyoxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups, amino acids ; N-acyl amino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl trisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof. The N-acyl amino acids may comprise an acyl group having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, 2-ethyl hexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, cocoyl. The salts of these compounds can5

31 are the salts of aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium, potassium. The amino acid can be for example lysine, glutamic acid, alanine

The term alkyl mentioned in the compounds mentioned above denotes in particular an alkyl group having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably having from 5 to 16 carbon atoms. Hydrophobic-treated pigments are described in particular in application EP-A-1086683.

The pigments are present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 20% by weight.

In addition to the pigments, the composition according to the invention may comprise fillers and / or nacres.

By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders, poly-8-alanine powders, polyethylene powders, polymethylmethacrylates, polyurethane powders such as powder copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone sold under the names PLASTIC POWDER D-400 by TOSHIKI, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, copolymers of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile, acrylic acid copolymers, silicone resin powders, in particular silsesquioxane powders (silicone resin powders, in particular described in patent EP 293795, for example Toshiba's Tospearls) , elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, s glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

32 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate; barium sulphate and their mixtures.

The fillers may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.05% to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 25% by weight. and preferably ranging from 5% to 15% by weight.

In addition to the pigments and fillers, the particulate phase of the invention may comprise nacres.

By nacres, it is necessary to include iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the composition.

The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The nacres may be present in each of the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2% to 10% by weight.

The pulverulent phase may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight. According to a particular embodiment, the pulverulent phase represents at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition

The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one hydro or liposoluble dye.

Fat-soluble dyes include generally organic compounds soluble in fats such as oils.

By water-soluble dyes, it is necessary to include generally organic compounds soluble in water or water-miscible solvents.

Fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Green No. 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow No. 11, Purple D & C). No. 2, D & C orange No. 5, yellow quinoline, annatto, bromoacids.

The synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes are, for example, FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1, betanin (beet), carmine, copper chlorophyllin, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry), caramel, riboflavin.

The compositions according to the invention may also comprise a cosmetic additive such as surfactants, antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, bactericidal or antiperspirant active agents, neutralizers, emollients, moisturizers, vitamins and filters in particular solar.

Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the contemplated addition, in particular so as not to interfere with the reaction between compounds X and Y.

galenic

The composition (s) according to the invention may be independently in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel, an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a wax-in water-in-oil (W / O), or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or H / E / H), in the form of cream, foam, dispersion of vesicles including ionic lipids or not, biphase lotion or multiphase, powder, paste, including soft dough.

According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention have an aqueous continuous phase, and may preferably be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a wax-in-water emulsion, or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E), or aqueous solution.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W).

The compositions comprising compounds X and Y can in particular be in liquid, solid or pasty form. It may in particular act stick, powders, gels or liquids. According to one particular embodiment, the kit according to the invention may comprise: a first composition in pulverulent form associated with a second liquid composition; or a first liquid composition or gel associated with a second liquid composition, or a first liquid composition or gel associated with a second powder composition, or a first solid composition such as a stick associated with a second liquid composition, or a first liquid composition or gel associated with a second composition sprayed with a spray.

According to another preferred embodiment, when the second composition of the kit comprises the crosslinking or complexing agent Y, it may be in a sprayed form, in particular by a spray.

The method according to the invention can be advantageously used for the makeup of the skin, lips, eyelashes and / or nails depending on the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the compositions of the process according to the invention can be independently present in the form of a solid foundation, a stick or a lipstick paste, a concealer product, or an eye or eye contour. liner, mascara, eye shadow, body make-up product or a skin coloring product.

According to one embodiment, the first, second and, if appropriate, third compositions are lipstick compositions.

According to another embodiment, the first, second and, if appropriate, third compositions are eyelash or eyebrow coating compositions and more particularly mascaras.

According to another embodiment, the first, second and, if appropriate, third compositions are compositions for coating the skin of the body or face, more particularly makeup compositions for the skin of the body or of the face, such as, for example, foundations or body makeup compositions.

Those skilled in the art may choose the appropriate dosage form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of its general knowledge, taking into account, on the one hand, the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand, the intended application for each composition.

According to one particular embodiment, at least one of the two compositions of the kit according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase comprising water.

According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said aqueous phase comprises water-miscible organic solvents chosen from monoalcohols having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; the polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms; glycol ethers having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms; the (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, said aqueous phase is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 20% to 99% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 30% to 80% by weight. % by weight, and preferably ranging from 40% to 60% by weight.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, at least one of the two compositions of the kit comprises a hydrophilic gelling agent distinct from the polysaccharides (X).

In particular, the hydrophilic gelling agent is chosen from: homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters, polyacrylic acids, copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide, sodium polymethacrylate, salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids, polyacrylic acid / alkyl acrylate copolymers,

And AMPS (Polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked), AMPS / acrylamide copolymers, and polyoxyethylenated AMPS / alkyl methacrylate copolymers (crosslinked or uncrosslinked), proteins such as the original proteins. vegetable such as wheat protein, soya; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, methyl cellulose, ethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, and quaternized cellulose derivatives; polymers of natural origin, which may be modified, such as: gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, locust bean gum, alginates and carrageenans (the alginates being used preferably in presence of salts such as calcium chloride), glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, polymers or acrylic copolymers, vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; deoxyribonucleic acid; mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulphate, unmodified clays and especially montmorillonites, hectorites, smectites, bentones, laponites, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the water-soluble gelling polymer is present in the composition in a solids content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.05% to 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1% to 10% by weight. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, at least one of the two compositions of the kit according to the invention comprises a fatty phase comprising an oily phase.

In a preferred embodiment, the oily fatty phase comprises a non-volatile oil. In particular, the non-volatile oil (s) are chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have lengths of various chains of C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; These oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or else the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor oil and shea butter. avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, and their mixture.

In particular, the volatile oil (s) are chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils, volatile silicone oils and volatile fluoro oils, and mixtures thereof.

According to one embodiment, the oily phase comprises at least one volatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin. such as isododecane, isohexadecane; volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, chosen from octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyl; trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, said oily phase is present in a total content ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 50% by weight, preferably ranging from % to 35% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 30% by weight.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, at least one of the two compositions of the kit according to the invention comprises at least one wax.

In particular, the wax is chosen from: - beeswax, lanolin wax, and insect waxes from China; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, japanese wax and sumach wax; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerites, ceresin wax, lignite wax, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, esters of fatty acids and concrete glycerides at 40 ° C. and especially at more than 55 ° C., the waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains, especially hydrogenated jojoba oil. hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, - silicone waxes or fluorinated waxes, and - mixtures thereof

In particular, the wax is present in a content ranging from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2 to 12% by weight, and more preferably from 4 to 9% by weight.

Make-up removal of the films according to the invention The non-water-soluble film obtained by reaction between the protein X of the first composition described above and the crosslinking or complexing agent Y of the second composition described above can be easily peeled.

According to another embodiment, it may be cleansed, in the case where Y is a complexing agent, for example with the aid of a sequestering agent (also called chelating agent) of the complexing agent Y of said protein X .

This is why the invention also relates to a method for removing make-up and / or cleaning makeup films formed by the application to the keratin materials, of a first composition comprising at least one protein X, and of a second composition comprising a complexing agent Y of said compound X,

The method comprising at least one step of applying to said makeup films, a make-up removal and / or cleaning composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and at least one sequestering agent of said complexing agent Y .

After application of the make-up removing and / or cleaning composition to the makeup film obtained after application of first and second compositions, the sequestering agent is bonded with the complexing agent (in particular the multivalent ions) present in the complex Y-protein X complexing agent, resulting in the dissociation of said complex and the disintegration of the makeup film. The make-up removal of the complexed protein-based film can be done, for example, using a cotton swab soaked with a sequestering agent solution or by peeling.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic kit comprising: - a first composition comprising at least one protein X, - a second composition comprising a complexing agent Y of said compound X and - a make-up removing and / or cleaning composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an aqueous phase and at least one sequestering agent of said complexing agent. The first and second compositions are as described above.

The sequestering agent of the complexing agent is chosen in particular from carboxylic acids, preferably aminocarboxylic acids, phosphonic acids, preferably aminophosphonic acids, polyphosphoric acids, preferably linear polyphosphoric acids, their salts and derivatives. . The salts include alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium and substituted ammonium salts. The chelating agents may in particular be chosen from: aminocarboxylic acids (that is to say acids comprising at least one carboxylic acid group), such as compounds having the following INCI name: diethylenetriamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), Ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate such as Octaquest E30 from OCTEL,

Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine-N, N'-diglutaric acid (EDDG), glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), glycinamide-N, N'-disuccinic acid (GADS), 2-hydroxypropylenediamine-N , N'-disuccinic acid (HPDDS), ethylenediamine-N-N'-bis (ortho-hydroxyphenyl acetic acid) (EDDHA), N, N'-bis (2-hydroxybenzyl) ethylenediamine-N, N'-diacetic acid (HBED), nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), methylglycine diacetic acid (MGDA), N-2-hydroxyethyl N, N diacetic acid, and glyceryl imino diacetic acid (as described in EP-A-317,542 and EP-A- 399,133, iminodiacetic acid-N-2-hydroxypropyl sulfonic acid and aspartic acid N-carboxymethyl N-2-hydroxypropyl-3-sulfonic acid (as described in EP-A-516,102), beta-alanine-N , N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N, N'-diacetic acid, aspartic acid-N-monoacetic acid (described in EP-A-509,382), - chelating agents based on iminodisuccinic acid (IDSA) (such as described in EP-A-509,382), ethanoldiglycine acid - the phophon obutane tricarboxylic acid such as the compound marketed by Bayer under the reference Bayhibit AM, - tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) such as Dissolvine GL38 or 45S from Akzo Nobel - mono or polyphosphonic acid-based chelating agents such as compounds having the following INCI name: diethylenetriamine-penta (methylene phosphonic acid) (DTPMP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (El HTP), ethane-2-hydroxy-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (E2HTP), ethane-1-hydroxy-1,1-triphosphonic acid (EHDP), ethan-1,1,2-triphosphonic acid (ETP), ethylenediaminetetramethylene phosphonic acid (EDTMP), hydroxyethane-1,1 diphosphonic acid ( HEDP), - polyphosphoric acid-based chelants such as compounds having the INCI name: sodium tripolyphosphate (STP), tetrasodium diphosphate, hexametaphophoric acid, sodium metaphosphate, phytic acid, their salts and derivatives, and mixtures thereof . Mention may also be made of carboxylated derivatives of fructan inulin (as for example those described in US6280628.

Among the chelating agents mentioned, ethylene diaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), diethylene triamine pentaacetic acid (DTPA), S, S-ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS), ethylene diamine tetramethylene phosphonic acid are preferably used. (EDTMP), phophonobutane tricarboxylic acid, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (GLDA) and mixtures thereof.

The sequestering agent may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the make-up removing and / or cleaning composition, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight and better from 0.1 to 10% by weight.

Preferably, the sequestering agent is present in the form of an aqueous solution, that is to say that the cleansing and / or cleaning composition comprises an aqueous phase as defined above.

The invention is further illustrated by the examples described hereinafter. Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as a percentage by weight. EXAMPLES Example 1 Composition of O / W Complexion

An amylose of oxidized maize is prepared by oxidation of a corn amylose (Hylon VII) supplied by National Starch & Chemical in water in the presence of hydrogen peroxide and iron tetrasulfophthalocyanine catalyst. 58 ° C. Such an oxidation method is described in application FR-A-2842200, by way of example as in example 2. 41

The amylose of oxidized maize has a carbonyl content of 0.95 mmol / g and a carboxyl content of 2.63 mmol / g. Phase Ingredients% Al Gelatin (acid pig) 12.3 (protein) Distilled water 39.5 Glycerin 4.2 GLYCERYL STEARATE 2.1 and PEG-100 STEARATE (SIMULSOL 165 from A2 SEPPIC) Polysorbate 60 TWEEN 0.9 60 V ( CRODA) 0.5C Cetyl Alcohol Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 13.25 245 Dow Corning Fluid) Isononyl Isononanoate 13.25 C Amylose Oxidized 0.49 Distilled Water 13.51 Gelatin is first solubilized when heated (90 ° C) in distilled water (phase A1). The mixture is then placed in a water bath at 50 ° C, and the A2 phase is added. In parallel, the oily phase B is also raised to 50 ° C. It is added gradually in the phase (Al + A2) to produce the emulsion. When the emulsion obtained is homogeneous, phase C is added with stirring for 30 seconds. The composition is then applied.

The resulting film is virtually dry after 6-7 minutes. The resulting film is cohesive, easily peelable, flexible and elastic. To the touch, the film is soft. Example 2: Foundation Kit 15

Composition A: Gelatin (Protein) 4% Beeswax 10% Iron Oxide Black 0.05% Iron Oxide Red 0.34% Iron Oxide Yellow 1.03% Ultramarine Blue 0.23% Preservatives 0 , 45% Simethicone (anti foam) 0.13% Cetyl potassium phosphate (Rock Amphisol K) 4% Water Qs 100

Composition B Oxidized starch (chemical crosslinking agent) 3% Preservatives qs Water gsp100

This composition is packaged in an aerosol / fogger.

A layer of the composition A is then applied to the skin of the face and then the composition B is sprayed on the assembly using the aerosol. The film formed on the face by chemical crosslinking of the gelatin with the oxidized starch has a good resistance to water.

This film can be removed easily by peeling by pulling with your fingers.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. Kit for coating keratin materials comprising: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical cross-linking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres, in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 2. Kit for coating keratin materials comprising: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; the compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by a chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film and said compound X being present in a content of at least 1% by weight in the first composition or at a content such that it is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition. 3. coating kit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the compound X is selected from proteins of plant or animal origin, hydrolysed or non-hydrolysed. 4. Coating kit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that: proteins and hydrolysates of proteins of vegetable origin are chosen from cereal extracts such as wheat germ, wheat, rice, rye, corn, millet, barley, oats; proteins and hydrolysates of proteins of vegetable origin are chosen from extracts of legumes such as soybean, lentils, white beans, chickpeas, dry beans, peas; proteins and hydrolysates of proteins of vegetable origin are chosen from extracts of oilseeds or germinated seeds such as extracts of corn, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, spelled, pea, bean, lentil, soy and lupine, sprouted wheat, fenugreek, sunflower, alfalfa - proteins of animal origin are chosen from proteins derived from eggs, milk, meat. 5. coating kit according to any one of claims characterized in that the compound X is present in a content ranging from 1 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. weight, and better from 1 to 10% by weight. 6. Coating kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical crosslinking agent or ionic or dative complexation Y is chosen from aldehydes, anhydrous acids, isocyanates, thioisocyanates, azides, azolides, carboimides, epoxides, esters, glycidyl ethers, halogens, imidazoles, imidates, succinimides, succinimidyl esters, and hydrocolloids. 15 7. coating kit according to the preceding claim, characterized in that: - the aldehydes are chosen from glutaraldehyde (OHC- (CH2) 3-CHO), formaldehyde; the polysaccharides, modified or otherwise, are chosen from oxidized starch, pectin, in particular low-methylated pectin, xanthan gum and kappa-carrageenans. 8. Coating kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the combinations of protein and chemical crosslinking agent or ionic or dative complexation are chosen from: - Serum proteins (whey) with xanthan (ionic complexation) - caseins with pectin HM (ionic complexation) - Gelatin or collagen with oxidized starch (chemical crosslinking). 9 coating kit according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the chemical crosslinking agent or ionic or dative complexation (Y) is in a content ranging from 0.5% to 95% by weight relative to total weight of the second composition, preferably 1% to 90% and more preferably 2% to 50%. 10. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first and / or second compositions are packaged separately in the same packaging article. 11. Kit according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a third composition for removing the coating obtained on the keratin materials by reaction of compounds X and Y. 12. Cosmetic composition for coating keratin materials comprising at least one compound X and at least one compound Y, the compounds X and Y being as defined in any one of the preceding claims and the compound X being present in said composition in one content of at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film . 13. Cosmetic process for coating keratin materials comprising: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; at least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, then b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture. 14. Cosmetic process for coating keratinous substances consisting of: a. extemporaneously mixing: at least one first composition comprising a compound X; At least one second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical cross-linking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition in a content such that it is at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the mixture of the first and the second composition and then 47b. to apply on said keratinous materials at least one layer of said mixture. A cosmetic process for coating keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical cross-linking reaction or ionic or dative complexation in situ, at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature so as to form a film, at least one of said first or second composition comprising at least one particulate phase comprising fillers, pigments and / or nacres in a content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition. 16. A cosmetic process for coating keratin materials comprising the application to said keratin materials: a. at least one layer of a first composition comprising a compound X; b. at least one layer of a second composition comprising a compound Y; compound X being a protein, said compounds X and Y reacting together by chemical crosslinking reaction in situ, at atmospheric pressure (and ambient temperature) so as to form a film, and said compound X being present in the first composition in a content at least 1% by weight relative to the total weight of said first composition. 17. A method for removing make-up and / or cleaning makeup films formed by the application, on the keratin materials, via at least one composition, of at least one compound X and at least one complexing agent Y as defined in the preceding claims, said compounds X and Y being capable of forming a film by an ionic or dative complexation reaction in situ at atmospheric pressure and ambient temperature, the method comprising at least one step of applying to said makeup films, a makeup removing and / or cleaning composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one sequencing agent of said complexing agent Y, intended to dissolve said film.