FR2940075A1 - Lightening or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises applying anhydrous cosmetic composition comprising fatty substances and surfactants, composition comprising ammonium salts, and composition comprising oxidizing agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Lightening or coloring of keratin fibers, particularly human keratin fibers such as hair, comprises applying an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a cosmetic composition (B1) comprising one or more ammonium salts, and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, to the keratin fibers, when the process is for dyeing keratin fibers, the composition (B1) further comprises one or more oxidation dyes and/or direct dyes. An independent claim is included for a multi-compartment device comprising first compartment containing the composition (A), a second compartment containing the composition (B1) with one or more ammonium salts and optionally one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or their mixtures, and a third compartment containing the composition (C).

Description

B08-4315EN GD / SE OA 08551

Société Anonyme known as L'OREAL

Process for direct lightening dyeing or oxidation in the presence of an ammonium salt and device. Invention of: Direct lightening dyeing or oxidation process in the presence of an ammonium salt and device

The subject of the present invention is a process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair in the presence of one or more oxidizing agents, which comprises the use of an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more dyes and one or more ammonium salts and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidants. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the aforementioned anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more dyes and one or more ammonium salts and a third compartment containing a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidants. The present invention relates to the field of dyeing keratinous fibers and more particularly to the field of hair dyeing. For a long time, many people have been trying to change the color of their hair and in particular to hide their white hair. To do this, there are essentially two types of staining that have been developed. The first type of staining is the so-called permanent staining or oxidation which uses dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally called oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, when combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds by a process of oxidative condensation. It is also known that the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be varied by combining them with couplers or color modifiers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-aminophenols and meta-aminophenols. diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds such as indole compounds. The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. The second type of staining is so-called semipermanent staining, or direct staining, which consists of applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers, to be allowed to pausate to allow the molecules to penetrate, diffusion inside the fiber, then rinse them. In order to perform these stains, the direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes. This type of process does not require the use of an oxidizing agent to develop the coloring. However, it is not excluded to implement in order to obtain a lightening effect with the coloring. We then speak of a direct or semi-permanent coloration in lightening conditions. The permanent or semipermanent coloring processes in lightening conditions therefore consist in using, with the dyeing composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role, at least in part, of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, it is customary to use peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.

One of the difficulties is that these processes are carried out under alkaline conditions and that the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. The use of ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent. But this alkaline agent also causes a swelling of the keratinous fiber, with a lifting of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidant, as well as dyes, essentially the oxidation dyes, inside the fiber, and therefore increases the efficiency of the staining reaction. However, this alkalizing agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic smell, rather annoying ammonia that emerges during the process.

In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp resulting in particular tingling. As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, this does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalinizing agents do not provide sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent. One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide methods for staining human keratin fibers used in the presence of an oxidizing agent which do not have the drawbacks of the existing processes, disadvantages due to the presence of significant levels of ammonia, but which remain at least as effective, in terms of the power of the coloration obtained, and on that of the chromaticity, of the homogeneity of the coloring along the fiber.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a method for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, in the presence of an oxidizing agent in which is applied to said fibers (a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants; (b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more oxidation dyes and / or a plurality of direct dyes and one or more ammonium salts, (c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. In particular, the method according to the invention leads to powerful and unspecific coloring, that is to say, colorations that are homogeneous along the fiber. Moreover, the process according to the invention makes it possible to produce compositions which do not emit an aggressive odor when they are applied to the hair or during their preparation. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in a second compartment, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more dyes oxidation and / or one or more direct dyes and one or more ammonium salts and, in a third compartment, a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field. The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.

As indicated above, the dyeing process is carried out in the presence of an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A). More particularly, the term "anhydrous cosmetic composition" in the meaning of the invention is intended to mean a cosmetic composition having a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight. % by weight relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that the water present in the composition is more particularly bound water, as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention . As has been mentioned, the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances. By fatty substance is meant an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), that is to say a solubility of less than 5% and preferably less than 5%. 1% even more preferentially at 0.1%. They have in their structure at least one chain of at least two siloxane groups or a hydrocarbon chain containing at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances are in particular chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and alcohol esters. fatty, non-silicone waxes and silicones.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have one or more linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which are optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. As regards the C6-C16 lower alkanes, the latter are linear or branched, possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane and isodecane. Examples of oils of mineral, plant, animal or synthetic origin that may be used in the composition of the invention include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, linear or branched hydrocarbons having more than 16 carbon atoms, mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, fluorinated oils such as perfluoromethyl hylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1" and "FLUTEC PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050" and "PF 5060" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "FORALKYL a" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052e" by the company 3M. The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example cetyl alcohol or alcohol. stearyl and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol or linoleic alcohol. The fatty acids that may be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) may be saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are chosen more particularly from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

As regards esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may in particular be made of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric acid esters and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic or monohydric alcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being more particularly greater or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; myristyl, stearyl hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy.

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates. Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C6-C30, preferably C18-C22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 1 -C 22 fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri- and tetraester , and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triesterpolyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE. The wax or non-silicone waxes that may be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) are chosen in particular from Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, and Alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite. , vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswaxes, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one

functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly between:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR5 ## where: ## STR5 ## Examples of cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and

tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ', 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane; (ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics". Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products: SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL oils marketed by Rhodia, such as, for example, 70 047 V 500 000 oil; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins that can be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2 12, R 2 SiOl 2, RSiO 3 12 and SiO 4/2 in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product marketed under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shinetsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made by way of example of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN, PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 alkyl groups; -C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT.

Preferably, the fatty substances are not comprised of oxyalkylenated units or glycerolated units.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure. The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of mineral, vegetable or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters and silicones.

According to one embodiment, the fatty substance or fats is or are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, liquids or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the fatty substance (s) of the composition according to the invention are non-silicone.

The composition (A) according to the invention comprises at least 25% fat. Preferably the fat content is from 25 to 80%, more preferably from 25 to 65%, more preferably from 30 to 55% of the total weight of the composition. The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants. The anionic surfactants are more especially chosen from salts (in particular alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts such as the salts of amino alcohols or salts of alkaline earth metals, such as magnesium). following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulphonates, α-olefin-sulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates; alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; salts of alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acyl lactylates; salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylarylether carboxylic acids and polyoxyalkylenated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - and their mixtures. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds advantageously comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated. By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols, • linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 saturated or non-saturated alcohols, • C 8 amides, -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or non-linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, • esters of C3-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated , linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures. Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not include oxypropylene units. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from C 8 -C 30 alcohols, oxyethylenated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acid esters and polyoxythylenated sorbitol.

As an example of mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, are preferably used. In particular, mono- or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a linear or alkyl or alkenyl radical, branched, C8-C40, preferably C8-C30, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of suitable compounds in the context of the invention, it is possible to mention lauric alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol with 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol to 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 / C alcohol, to one mole of glycerol, the C 10 / C 12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol. , 5 moles of glycerol. Preferably, the surfactant present in the composition of the invention is a nonionic surfactant. The content of surfactants in the composition of the invention more particularly represents from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The anhydrous composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, with in particular the anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners different from the polymers mentioned above; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents.

The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). The composition may comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof. As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay. The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-O-SIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm. Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified pyrogenic silica. When present, the mineral thickening agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. The composition may also include one or more organic thickeners.

These thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones with a fatty chain (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules). According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose. The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.

Advantageously, the composition (A) is in the form of a gel or a cream. The process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes, or mixtures thereof. The oxidation dyes are generally chosen from oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts.

Among the para-phenylenediamines, there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N- bis- (13-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis- (3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylaniline, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-chloroaniline, 2- (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N - ((3-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N- (ethyl, (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, N - ((3, y-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyloxy paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-acetylaminoethyloxy para-phenylenediamine, N - ((3-methoxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4 aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino-toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid. Among the paraphenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-13-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethyloxy) paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2, 6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2- (3-acetylaminoethyloxy) para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with Examples of the bis-phenylalkylenediamines include, for example, N, N'-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4'-aminophenyl) 1, 3-diaminopropanol, N, N'-bis-03-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethyl hylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (ethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3 , 6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts. Among para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - ( 3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid Among the ortho-aminophenols, there may be mentioned, by way of example, 2-amino phenol, 2- amino-5-methyl phenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol, 5-acetamido-2-amino phenol, and their addition salts Amongst the heterocyclic bases, mention may be made by way of example, pyridine derivatives, Pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino-3-amino pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts. Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol 2 - [(3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a]) pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; as well as their addition salts. Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists. Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 as the 4.5 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1 - ((3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4, 5-diamino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl-4,5-diamino-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4 , 5-diamino-1-hydroxyethyl) -3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl-pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. It is also possible to use 4-5-diamino-1-methoxyethyl pyrazole. Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-O-hydroxyethylpyrazole and / or one of its salts will be used. As pyrazole derivatives, mention may also be made of diamino N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in application FR-A-2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol 1-yl, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) 6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4 5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3 -one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-dimethylamino-6, 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [1,2-a] ] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5- (3-dimethyl) -2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one ethylamino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [ 1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one. It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof. As heterocyclic bases, 4,5-diamino-1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2] will preferably be used. -a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof.

The cosmetic composition (B) according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers.

Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. By way of example, mention may be made of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene and 2,4-diamino-1- (B- hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- (13-hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido 1-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (B-hydroxyethyl) amino-3 , 4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis- (β-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxy indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy 4-methyl pyridine, 1-H 3 -methyl pyrazole 5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methyl pyrazole-5-one, 2,6-dimethyl pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1, 2,4-triazole, 6-methyl pyrazolo [1,5 -a] -benzimidazole, their addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof.

In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. The oxidation base (s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The content of the coupler (s), if they are (are) present, is each advantageously from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition (B). As regards the direct dyes, the latter are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species. As examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures. More particularly, the azo dyes comprise a function -N = N- whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N = N- is engaged in a cycle. The dyes of the family of methines are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from> C = C <and -N = C <whose two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. It is however specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the chains can be engaged in a cycle. More particularly, the dyes of this family are derived from methine, azomethine, mono- and di-arylmethane compounds, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanines, azacabocyanines and their isomers, diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanines, hemicyanines. As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, mention may be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigo, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole, coumarin.

As regards the dyes of the family of cyclic azines, there may be mentioned in particular azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine, pyronine. The nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitro pyridinic direct dyes. With regard to porphyrin or phthalocyanine dyes, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon. By way of example of particularly suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines; methinic; azaarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

These dyes may be monochromophoric dyes (that is to say comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric, preferably di- or tri-chromophoric dyes; the chromophores which may be identical or different, of the same chemical family or not. It should be noted that a polychromophoric dye comprises several radicals each derived from an absorbing molecule in the visible range between 400 and 800 nm. In addition, this absorbance of the dye does not require any prior oxidation thereof, or association with other (s) species (s) chemical (s).

In the case of polychromophoric dyes, the chromophores are connected to each other by means of at least one linker which may or may not be cationic. Preferably, the linking arm is a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising (CO, SO2), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one unsubstituted or substituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted by two optionally substituted C1-C15 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group. If the heterocycles or aromatic rings are substituted, they are, for example, substituted with one or more C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or amino group substituted by one or two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or both radicals which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another identical heteroatom or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.

Among the benzene direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in a nonlimiting manner: -1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-13-hydroxyethylaminobenzene-1-amino -2-nitro-4-bis (13-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene -1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene-1-β-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis - ((3-hydroxyethylamino) benzene -1-B-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene-1- (3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (B-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene-1-amino-3-methyl-4 - (3-Hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-nitro-4- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5-chlorobenzene -1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-13-hydroxyethylamino) 1,2,4-bis (13-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-tris- (hydroxymethyl) -methylamino-5-nitrobenzene -1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene -1-nitrobenzene -1-nitrobenzene Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene -1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene -1-β-hydroxyethyloxy-2- 3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene-1-methoxy-2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene -1- (3-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene-1- (3-yl) dihydroxypropyloxy-3-methylamino) 4-Nitrobenzene - 1- (3-hydroxyethylamino-4- (3-yl) dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene-1- (3-yl) dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene -1- (3-hydroxyethylamino) -4- 2-Trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene -1-13-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene-1- (3-aminoethylamino-5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4- nitrobenzene - 1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene -1-Hydroxy-6-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3-nitrobenzene -1-13-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene - 1 -hydroxy-4- (3-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. Among the azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851, FR-2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073. Thus, the following dyestuffs of formulas (I) to (IV), and preferably the compounds of formulas (I) and (III), may be mentioned in particular. In which: D represents a nitrogen atom or the group -CH, R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical which may be substituted with a -CN, -OH or -NH 2 radical or form, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated or nitrogenous heterocycle, which may be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals; C4; a 4'-aminophenyl radical, R3 and R'3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano radical or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; C4, C1-C4 alkoxy or acetyloxy, X - represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, A represents a group chosen from structures Al to A18, preferably Al, A4, A7, Following A13 and A18: R4 R4 R4 + / ù \ N - N + N - N`` + R4 N / R4 R4 N4 R4 A4 A5 A6 R4

A5 R4 N = N + R4 R4N N R4 A9 R4 A11 Al2 / R4 iR4 I + N N + A10 A13 A14 A15 R4 R4 RN ## STR2 ## wherein R4 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical which may be substituted by a hydroxyl radical and R5 represents a C1-C4 alkoxy radical; R8 R4 R, N N + 4 ~ N + B-N = N R6 / N

Wherein R6 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R7 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical which may be substituted by a radical -CN or by an amino group, a radical 4'-aminophenyl or forms with R 6 a heterocyclic ring optionally oxygenated and / or nitrogen which may be substituted by a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 and R 9, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or C1-C4 alkoxy, a radical - CN, by the structures B1 to B6 N ---- N + -Rio Rä INS 1 R12 X - represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate,

13 represents a chosen grouping: Rio \ Rio + IN + NI N +

Wherein R 10 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 1 and R 12, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical in which R 10 C, -C4;

R14 EiDi = D2u (N) m X (III) in which: R1; represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical; C4 or forms, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, a heterocycle optionally oxygenated and / or substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, R15 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, R16 and R17, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl radical C1-C4, DI and D2, identical or different, represent a nitrogen atom or the group -CH, m = 0 or 1, preferably 1, it being understood that when R13 represents an unsubstituted amino group, then D, and D2 simultaneously represent a -CH group and m = 0, X - represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, E represents a group chosen by the structures are E1 to E8, more particularly E1, E2 and E7, as follows: E4 E5 El E3 R '/ N' '+ N R' R '

E7 E8 N + and wherein R 'represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical; when m = 0 and DI represents a nitrogen atom, then E may also designate a group of structure E9 as follows: R 'i E9 // N +

R 'in which R' represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical. G N N J (IV) in which:

the symbol G represents a group chosen from the following structures G1 to G3: R1, R2, N + X-R18, R18 G1 GZ G, structures G1 to G3 in which R18 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical which may be be substituted by a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine; R19 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, or form together in G1 a benzene ring substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy or NO2 radicals, or together form in G2 a benzene ring optionally substituted with one or more C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy or NO2 radicals; R20 may further denote a hydrogen atom; Z represents an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or a group - NR19; M represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; K represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; P represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; r is zero or 1; R22 represents an O atom, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; R23 and R24, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 alkoxy radical; NO2; X represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate; with the proviso that, if R22 is O, then r is zero; if K or P or M denote -N-C 1 -C 4 alkyl X, then R 23 or R 24 is preferably (with or without this condition was no longer useful; by conserving it, the recovery of formulas can be limited. That said, it is not very important, I think, different from a hydrogen atom; if K denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then M = P = -CH, -CR; if M denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then K = P = -CH, -CR; if P denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then K = M and denote -CH or -CR; if Z denotes a sulfur atom with R 21 denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl, then R 20 is different from a hydrogen atom; if Z denotes -NR22 with R19 denoting C1-C4 alkyl, then at least one of the radicals R18, R20 or R21 of the group of structure G2 is different from a C1-C4 alkyl radical;

the symbol J represents: - (a) a group of structure J1 following J, structure J1 in which, R25 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine , a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, a -OH, -NO2, -NHR28, -NR29R30, -NHCO-C1-C4 alkyl radical, or form with R26 a 5- or 6-membered ring containing or not containing one or more heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or form with R27 or R28 a ring 5- or 6-membered ring containing or not containing one or more heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R27 represents a hydrogen atom, an -OH radical, a -NHR28 radical, a -NR29R30 radical; R28 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical or a phenyl radical; R29 and R30, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical or a C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical; (b) a 5- or 6-membered nitrogenous heterocyclic group capable of containing other heteroatoms and / or carbonyl groups and which may be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl, amino or phenyl radicals, and in particular a group of structure J2 following / R3, structure J2 in which, (Y-) ùN (U) n J2 R31 and R32, identical or different, represent an atom

hydrogen, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical; CH 3 Y denotes the radical -CO- or the radical c n = 0 or 1, with, when n denotes 1, U denotes the radical - CO-. In the structures (I) to (IV) defined above, the alkyl or C 1 -C 4 alkoxy group preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, butyl, methoxy or ethoxy.

Among the compounds of formulas (I) and (III), the following compounds are preferred: ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## among the azo direct dyes the following dyes, described in COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3rd edition: - Disperse Red 17 - Basic Red 22 - Basic Red 76 - Basic Yellow 57 - Basic Brown 16 - Basic Brown 17 - Disperse Black 9. It is also possible to mention 1- (4'-aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4bis-3-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene. Among the quinone direct dyes are the following dyes: - Disperse Red 15 - Solvent Violet 13 - Disperse Violet 1 - Disperse Violet 4 - Disperse Blue 1 - Disperse Violet 8 - Disperse Blue 3 - Disperse Red 11 Disperse Blue 7 Basic Blue 22 - Disperse Violet 15 - Basic Blue 99 as well as the following compounds: ~ / H3C-N + C = NN \ - 1 CH3 X- // \ H3C-N + -NN - / H CH3OCH3 X- - 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4 hydroxy-anthraquinone-1-aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone-1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone-5- (3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone-2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone-1,4-bis-03, y-dihydroxypropylamino) -anthraquinone. Among the azine dyes, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Blue 17 - Basic Red 2. Among the triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Green 1 - Basic Violet 3 - Basic Violet 14 Among the indoamine dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: 2- [3-hydroxyethlyamino-5- [bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino] anilino 1,4-Benzoquinone -2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone-3-N (2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy) phenyl) -acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3-N (3'-chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3- [4'-N] - (Ethyl, carbamylmethyl) amino] phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine Among the tetraazapentamethine type dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds appearing in the table below. , An being defined as previously: ## STR1 ## Embedded image X represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate, and the like. and perchlorate. Among the polychromophoric dyes, mention may be made more particularly of azo and / or azomethine (hydrazonic) di- or trichromophoric dyes, symmetrical or not, comprising on the one hand at least one aromatic heterocycle comprising 5 or 6 ring members, optionally fused, comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said heterocycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen), and on the other hand, at least one phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally substituted, optionally bearing at least one OR group with R representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl radical, an optionally substituted phenyl ring, or at least one N (R ') 2 group with R 'identical or not, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted alkyl radical C, -C6, an optionally substituted phenyl ring; the radicals R 'which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a saturated 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, or else one and / or both radicals R' may each form with the carbon atom of the aromatic ring placed in ortho of the nitrogen atom, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle. As aromatic cationic heterocycle, there may be mentioned, preferably, 5- or 6-membered rings comprising 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms, preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle being optionally further fused to a benzene ring. It should also be noted that the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom different from nitrogen, such as sulfur or oxygen. If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, they are substituted, for example, with one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy or C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or substituted amino group. one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or both radicals which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another heteroatom; identical or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group. These polychromophores are connected to one another by means of at least one linking arm optionally comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom, which may or may not be engaged in a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic heterocycle.

Preferably, the linker is a linear, branched or cyclic C 1 -C 20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group. comprising (CO, SO2), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, 1 nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one phenyl or substituted or unsubstituted naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted with two optionally substituted C 1 -C 15 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group. The link between the linker and each chromophore is generally by means of a heteroatom which substitutes the phenyl or naphthyl ring or by means of the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle. The dye may comprise identical or different chromophores.

By way of examples of such dyes, reference may especially be made to patent applications EP 1637566, EP 1619221, EP 1634926, EP 1619220, EP 1672033, EP 1671954, EP 1671955, EP 1679312, EP 1671951, EP167952, EP167971, WO 06/063866, WO 06/063867, WO 06/063868, WO 06/063869, EP 1408919, EP 1377264, EP 1377262, EP 1377261, EP 1377263, EP 1399425, EP 1399117, EP 1416909, EP 1399116, EP 1671560. can also also use cationic direct dyes cited in applications EP 1006153, which describes dyes comprising two anthraquinone chromophores connected by means of a cationic linker; EP 1433472, EP 1433474, EP 1433471 and EP 1433473 which describe identical or different dichromophoric dyes, connected by a cationic or non-cationic linking arm, as well as EP 6291333 which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore to which are connected two azo-type chromophores or diazacarbocyanine or one of its isomers. Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.

When present, the direct dye (s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight. The cosmetic composition (B) can include either type of dyes. It may possibly be derived from the mixture of two coloring compositions, one comprising the oxidation dye (s) and the other, the direct dye (s). The cosmetic composition (B) further comprises one or more ammonium salts. The ammonium salts that can be used in the composition B according to the present invention are the ammonium salts (NH 4). The ammonium salts that can be used in the composition B according to the present invention are preferably chosen from the following acid salts: acetate, carbonate, bicarbonate, chloride, citrate, nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, sulfate.

In a particularly preferred manner, the ammonium carbonate will be used. Advantageously, the composition (B) has an ammonium salt content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.

It should be noted that, preferably, the composition (B) does not comprise ammonia as an alkaline agent. If however it understood, its content would not exceed preferably 0.03% by weight (expressed as NH3), and better not exceed 0.01% by weight relative to the weight of said final composition.

Preferably, the composition (B) contains one or more ammonium salts as sole alkaline agent (s). The composition (B) can be an anhydrous or aqueous composition.

By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the cosmetic composition (B) is an aqueous composition.

Preferably the composition (B) contains water. Even more preferentially, the water concentration can range from 10 to 90%, better still from 20 to 80% of the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition (B) may optionally comprise one or more solvents.

Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition (B), and preferably ranging from 5 to 30% by weight. The cosmetic composition (B) may also comprise conventional additives such as those which have been listed previously and it will be possible to refer to them.

The pH of the cosmetic composition (B), if it is aqueous, is between 8 and 11. The pH is adjusted by using acidifying or alkalinizing agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of the mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulfonic acids. As regards the basifying agent, if it is present, it may be chosen from non-salified organic amines, or possibly, although not preferentially, ammonia. It is stated that the final composition results from the mixing of the compositions (A), (B) and (C); these mixtures being made either before application on the keratinous fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly on the keratinous fibers (successive applications with or without premixes and without intermediate rinsing). When the process is carried out by means of a premix of the compositions (A) and (B) or of an extemporaneous preparation obtained by mixing the compositions (A), (B) and (C), then the duration between the mixing and application to the hair preferably does not exceed 30 minutes, preferably 10 minutes, more preferably 5 minutes. Finally, the process is carried out with a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, and alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates. One or more oxidation-reduction enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase) may also be used as the oxidizing agent, optionally in the presence of their respective donor or cofactor. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide and especially in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide) whose concentration may vary, more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. by weight, better from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the oxidizing composition (C). Depending on the desired degree of lightening, the oxidizing agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent preferably chosen from peroxygenated salts. The oxidizing composition (C) may be aqueous or non-aqueous. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

Preferably, the oxidizing composition (C) is an aqueous composition. It may also include one or more organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

The oxidizing composition (C) may comprise one or more acidifying agents described above. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition (C), when it is aqueous, is less than 7. The oxidizing composition (C) may also contain other ingredients conventionally used in the field, such as those detailed previously in the context of the present invention. of the anhydrous composition (A) or the composition (B). Finally, the oxidizing composition (C) is in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel.

According to a first variant of the invention, the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied to the keratinous fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing, more particularly the compositions (A) are applied and then (B) then (C) or (B) then (A) then (C). According to a second variant of the process, the composition resulting from the mixture prior to the application of the compositions (A) and (B) and then the oxidizing composition (C) is applied to the keratinous fibers successively and without intermediate rinsing. According to a third variant of the process, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing before application of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) is applied to the dry or wet keratinous fibers.

Advantageously, in the second and third variants, the time between mixing and application to the hair does not exceed preferably 30 minutes, preferably 10 minutes, more preferably 5 minutes In this variant, the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) vary from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0.3 to 3. In addition, independently of the variant used, the mixture present on the fibers (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixing of the compositions or from the successive application thereof) is left in place for a period, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes. The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.

At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry. Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants mentioned above, a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more dyes one or more direct dyes or mixtures thereof and one or more ammonium salts, and a third compartment containing a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLE The following compositions are prepared (amounts expressed in grams) Anhydrous Composition A: 100g Oxyethylenated sorbitan monolaurate (40E) 21.7 Pyrogenic silica with hydrophobic character 11.1 Vaseline oil Qsp 100 Cosmetic composition B: 100g Ammonium carbonate 10 Para-phenylene diamine 1.62 Resorcinol 1.64 1-beta-hydroxyethyloxy-2,4-diamino-benzene 0.15 dihydrochloride Sodium metabisulfite powder 0.45 Erythorbic acid 0.31 ethanol 8.8 Propylene glycol 6.2 Hexylene glycol 3 Di-Propylene glycol 3 Demineralized water Qsp 100 At the time of use, mixing: -10 parts by weight of the anhydrous composition (A) -4 parts by weight of the composition (B) -15 parts by weight International Platinum Oxidizer 20 volumes (6% hydrogen peroxide) (C) The resulting mixture, which has a pH of about 8, is then applied to a lock of 90% white natural hair (BN) and a wick. 90% white hair permed (BP). The mixing bath / wick ratio is respectively 10/1 (g / g). The break time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the locks are rinsed, then washed with Elsève multivitamin shampoo.

Results The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.

at. Calculation of the rise or variation of the color (AEab *) The rise of the coloring (AEab *) was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system. In this system L * a * b *, L * represents the intensity of the color, a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The lower the value of L *, the darker or more intense the color.

In the table below, we calculate the value of AEab * from the values of L * a * b * according to the following equation (i): A Epb * _ \ / (L * ùLo *) 2 + (a * ùao *) 2 + (b * ùb0 *) 2 (i) The increase in staining (AEab *) was calculated on the strands of natural white hair (BN) and on the strands of permed white hair (BP). In equation (i), for the locks of natural white hair (BN), L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of natural white hair after staining, and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on locks of unstained natural white hair. In equation (i), for strands of permed white hair (BP), L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on locks of white hair permed after staining, and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on unstained strands of white hair. The higher the value of AEab *, the better the rise or variation of the color.

b. Calculation of selectivity

The value of AE (selectivity) is calculated from the values of L * a * b * measured according to the following equation (ii): AE =. \ I (L * ù Lo *) 2 + (a * ù ao *) 2 + (b * ù bo *) 2 (ii) In equation (ii), L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on strands of colored natural white hair, and Lo *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on colored strands of colored white hair.

The selectivity of the AE coloring corresponds to the variation of the color between natural hair, representative of the nature of the hair at the root, and permed hair that is representative of the nature of the hair at the tip. The lower the value of AE, the more uniform the coloring is between the tip and the hairline. The results are given in the table below. L * a * b * AEab * DE Selectivity Natural hair strand no 60.58 0.03 12.85 treated Permanent strand of hair 62.23 0.25 13.89 untreated Wick of natural hair 20.65 2.92 5.58 40.69 0.79 treated with the composition according to the invention Permanent hair strand 19.94 2.75 5.28 43.26 treated with the composition according to the invention As shown in the table above, with the process according to the invention, a powerful and slightly selective coloration is obtained. In addition, no aggressive odor is observed, neither during the preparation of the coloring mixture nor during the wicking time.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. A process for dyeing keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in the presence of an oxidizing agent, characterized in that, on said fibers: (a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising a or a plurality of fatty substances and one or more surfactants, (b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more oxidation dyes and / or one or more direct dyes and one or more ammonium salts, and (c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) has a water content of less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A). 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of mineral, vegetable, animal or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols. fatty acids, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and silicones. 5.Procédé according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat or fats are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, liquids or mixtures thereof. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the concentration of fatty substance ranges from 25 to 80%, more preferably from 25 to 65%, more preferably from 30 to 55% of the total weight of the composition. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular mono- or polyoxyalkylenated and mono- or poly-substituted nonionic surfactants. - glycerolated. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the or ammonium salts are chosen from the following acid salts: acetate, carbonate, bicarbonate, chloride, citrate, nitrate, nitrite, phosphate, sulfate. 9. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ammonium salt is ammonium carbonate. 10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (B) has an ammonium salt content ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight. weight relative to the weight of said composition. 11. .Procédé according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the aqueous composition (C) comprises one or more oxidizing agents selected from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, bromates or ferricyanides of alkali metals. . 12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing, (A), (B) and (C) 13. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the composition resulting from the mixing prior to the application of the compositions (A) and (B) is applied to the keratinous fibers successively and without intermediate rinsing. then the oxidizing composition (C). 14. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 11, characterized in that a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing before application of the compositions (A), (B) is applied to the dry or wet keratinous fibers. and (C). 15. Multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous composition (A) according to any one of claims 1 to 7, a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) as defined according to any one of claims 1 or 8 to 10 comprising one or more oxidation dyes, one or more direct dyes or their mixtures, and one or more ammonium salts, and a third compartment containing a composition (C) containing one or more oxidizing agents such as as defined in any of claims 1 or 10.