FR2940060A1 - Coloring or lightening human keratin fiber, using anhydrous composition comprising fatty substance and surfactants, a composition comprising mono ethanolamine and basic amino acids, and composition comprising oxidizing agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Process of coloring or lightening human keratin fiber, using anhydrous composition (a) comprising one or more fatty substance and one or more surfactants; a composition (b) comprising mono ethanolamine and one or more basic amino acids; and a composition (c) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, is claimed, when the process is a process of coloring, then the anhydrous composition (a) is free of organic amine and composition (b) comprises one or more oxidation dyes and/or direct dyes. An independent claim is included for a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment having (a); another compartment having (b); and a third compartment having an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

Description

The present invention relates to a process for the dyeing of human keratinous fibers involving an anhydrous composition (A) which is free from dyes, and which comprises at least one embodiment of the present invention. organic amine comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine, one or more basic amino acids, one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. It relates to a multi-compartment device, at least one of which comprises the aforementioned anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), another the above-mentioned composition (B) and a last one the aforementioned oxidizing composition (C).

Among the methods for staining human keratinous fibers, such as the hair, mention may be made of oxidation or permanent staining. More particularly, this mode of staining uses one or more oxidation dye precursors, usually one or more oxidation bases possibly associated with one or more couplers. In general, oxidation bases are chosen from ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols as well as heterocyclic compounds. These oxidation bases are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, make it possible to access colored species by a process of oxidative condensation. Very often, the shades obtained with these oxidation bases are varied by combining them with one or more couplers, the latter being chosen in particular from aromatic meta-diamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols and certain heterocyclic compounds, such as indole compounds.

The variety of molecules involved in the oxidation bases and couplers allows a rich palette of colors to be obtained. Also known direct or semi-permanent coloring. The method conventionally used in direct dyeing consists in applying to the keratin fibers direct dyes which are colored and coloring molecules, having an affinity for the fibers, to be allowed to pausate to allow the molecules to penetrate, by diffusion, into the interior of the body. the fiber, then rinse them. The direct dyes generally employed are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine or triarylmethane direct dyes.

This type of process does not require the use of an oxidizing agent to develop the coloring. However, it is not excluded to implement in order to obtain with coloring, a lightening effect. This is called direct or semipermanent coloring in lightening conditions.

The permanent or semi-permanent coloring processes under lightening conditions therefore consist in using, with the dye composition, an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, it is customary to use peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. One of the difficulties is that these processes are carried out under alkaline conditions and that the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. Ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent. But this agent also causes a swelling of the keratinous fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidant, as well as dyes, essentially the oxidation dyes, inside the fiber, and therefore increases the efficiency of the staining reaction. However, this alkalizing agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic smell, rather annoying ammonia that emerges during the process.

In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but who may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp (tingling).

As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, this does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalinizing agents do not provide sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent.

One of the objectives of the present invention is to provide methods for staining human keratinous fibers used in the presence of an oxidizing agent which do not have the disadvantages of those used with the existing compositions, disadvantages caused by the presence large amounts of ammonia, but which remain at least as effective in terms of the power of the coloration obtained, the chromaticity, the homogeneity of the coloration along the fiber.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a process for staining human keratinous fibers in the presence of an oxidizing agent in which is implemented: a) an anhydrous composition (A) free from organic amine, comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants; b) a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine, one or more basic amino acids, and one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes; c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

It also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in one of them an anhydrous composition (A) free of organic amine, comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in another a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine, one or more basic amino acids, and one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes and in another, a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field.

The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.

The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) more particularly has a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight, and even more particularly less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of said 30% by weight. composition. It should be noted that the water may also be in the form of bound water, such as the water of crystallization of salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.

The anhydrous composition is free of organic amine. In particular, the anhydrous composition is free of organic amines whose pKb at 25 ° C. is less than 12 (this value corresponds to the highest basicity function).

As has been mentioned, the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances. By fatty substance is meant an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure. (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1% even more preferably 0.1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petrolatum or decamethylpentacyclosiloxane. According to the invention, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, mineral or synthetic vegetable origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones.

It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally substituted, in particular by one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. With regard to the C6-C16 lower alkanes, the latter are linear, branched, and possibly cyclic. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, dodecane and isoparaffins, such as isohexadecane and isodecane.

As oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, which may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene. triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides as sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil. linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam. fluorinated oils such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC PC1" and "FLUTEC PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050" and "PF 5060" by the company 3M, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem; nonafluoro-methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052" by the company 3M.

The fatty alcohols that are suitable for carrying out the invention are more particularly chosen from linear or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. For example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol may be mentioned; .

The fatty acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are advantageously chosen from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid.

With regard to fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above; mention may be made in particular of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic or monohydric acid esters and saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being greater or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabiethyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate; octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate, ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, myristate and cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, mirystyl, stearyl hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate.

Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy. These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30, preferably C 12 -C 22, fatty acid sugars. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides. Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose. The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids. preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof. These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmitostearate esters.

More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE.

The wax or the non-silicone waxes are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelila wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, wax of rice, hydrogenated jojoba wax or the absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as beeswax, or modified beeswax (cerabellina) ); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. The silicones that can be used in the cosmetic compositions of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-volatile silicones, modified or not with organic groups, having a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups. Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly between:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5, silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

It is also possible to mention the cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109 marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR5 ## Where: ## STR1 ## with D '-Si-O-CH3 C8H, 7 Cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures can also be mentioned with

Silicon-derived organic compounds, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2 ') 3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bisneopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and

With a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200" by Toray Silicone. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups and mixtures thereof are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which polydimethylsiloxanes with groups

Trimethylsilyl terminals. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

the SILBIONE oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASIL oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil;

oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA;

the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes. The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s This product preferably comprises 15% SE gum 30 and 85% of an SF 96 oil. The organopolysiloxane resins used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2 2, R 3 SiO 1/2, RSiO 3/2 and SiO 4 12 in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms Among these products, those which are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a lower alkyl group containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more particularly methyl, and which may be mentioned among these resins, the product sold under the name "DOW". CORNING 593 "or those marketed under the names" SILICONE FLUID SS 4230 and SS 4267 "by the company GENERAL ELECTRIC and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure.

Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes include by way of example the products sold under the following names: the SILBONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; . the RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 RHODIA series of oils; . DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING; . silicones of the PK series from BAYER, such as the product PK20; . silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products; . certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally comprising C 6 -alkyl groups; C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise an oxyalkylenated unit in C2 -C3 or glycerol pattern.

More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. Preferably, the fatty substance is a liquid compound at a temperature of 25 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of plant origin, mineral or synthetic, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, silicones. Preferably, the fatty substance is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters, or mixtures thereof.

The anhydrous cosmetic composition has a fatty substance content advantageously between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, and even more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition. .

The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants. Preferably, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants.

The anionic surfactants are more especially chosen from salts (in particular salts of alkali metals, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, salts of aminoalcohols or salts of alkaline-earth metals such as magnesium) of the following compounds alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulphonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulphonates, α-olefin-sulphonates, paraffin-sulphonates; alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; salts of alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acyl lactylates; salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylarylether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; - and their mixtures. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds advantageously comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group.

The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols, • linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 saturated or non-saturated alcohols, • C 8 amides, -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated , linear or branched, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, alone or in mixtures. Surfactants having a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not include oxypropylene units.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from C 8 -C 30 alcohols, oxyethylenated, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 30 acid esters, and sorbitol polyoxyethylenated.

By way of example of mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 mono- or polyglycerolated alcohols are preferably used. In particular, mono- or poly-glycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: ## STR3 ## in which R represents a linear or branched C 8 -C 8 alkyl or alkenyl radical; -C40, preferably C8-C30, and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10.

By way of example of suitable compounds within the scope of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER) and lauric alcohol containing 1.5 moles. glycerol, oleic alcohol with 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetyl alcohol with 2 moles glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 / C alcohol, one mole of glycerol, the C 1 -C 12 alcohol with 1 mole of glycerol and the C 12 alcohol. to 1.5 moles of glycerol.

Preferably, the surfactant present in the anhydrous composition is a nonionic surfactant.

The content of surfactants in the anhydrous composition is more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition.

The cosmetic composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; conditioning agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents. The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). The composition may comprise one or more mineral thickeners chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof.

The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay, Quaternium-18 Hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone IPP Gel, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8, Bentone Gel VS38 by Rhéox and Simagel M, Simagel SI 345 by Biophil.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-OSIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of pyrogen in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are referred to as "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (2nd edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CABO-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichiorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot. The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite, an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified pyrogenic silica.

When present, the mineral thickening agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

As indicated above, the composition (B) used in the process according to the invention comprises on the one hand monoethanolamine, and on the other hand one or more basic amino acids.

The basic amino acids that can be used in the context of the invention are more particularly chosen from those comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## where R denotes a group chosen from: N NH - (CH 2) 2 NH 2 - (CH 2) 2 NH C NH 2 NH. The compounds corresponding to formula (I) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline and preferably arginine, lysine, histidine, or mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the composition (B) has a monethanolamine content ranging from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. As regards the content of basic amino acid (s), it varies more particularly from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition.

It should be noted that according to a particularly advantageous embodiment, the monoethanolamine / basic amino acid weight ratio is preferably from 0.1 to 10, still more preferably from 0.3 to 10, more preferably from 1 to 5.

The composition (B) also comprises one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes. - (CH2) 3NH2 - (CH2) 2NHCONH2 The oxidation dyes are generally selected from one or more oxidation bases optionally combined with one or more couplers. By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis-phenylalkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and their addition salts. Among the paraphenylenediamines, there may be mentioned, for example, para-phenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,5-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-diethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dipropyl-para-phenylenediamine, 4-amino-N, N-diethyl-3-methylaniline, N, N- bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-methyl aniline, 4-N, N-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) amino 2-chloro aniline, 2- (3-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-fluoro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-para-phenylenediamine, N - ((3-hydroxypropyl) para-phenylenediamine, 2-hydroxymethyl-para-phenylenediamine, N, N-dimethyl-3-methyl-para-phenylenediamine; N, N- (ethyl, (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, N - ((3, γ-dihydroxypropyl) paraphenylenediamine, N- (4'-aminophenyl) paraphenylenediamine, N-phenyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethyloxy) para-phenylenediamine, 2- [3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, N - ((3-methoxyethyl) para-phenylenediamine, 4-aminophenylpyrrolidine, 2-thienyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5-amino-toluene, 3-hydroxy-1- (4'-aminophenyl) pyrrolidine and their addition salts with an acid. Among the para-phenylenediamines mentioned above, paraphenylenediamine, paratoluylenediamine, 2-isopropyl paraphenylenediamine, 2- (3-hydroxyethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2-hydroxy-3-hydroxyethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 6-diethyl paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl paraphenylenediamine, N, N-bis- (3-hydroxyethyl) paraphenylenediamine, 2-chloro-para-phenylenediamine, 2-G3-acetylaminoethyloxy-para-phenylenediamine, and their addition salts with an acid Particularly preferred are bis-phenylalkylenediamines, for example, N, N'-bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3- diamino propanol, N, N'-bis- (3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) ethylenediamine, N, N'-bis (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) N, N'-bis- (4-aminophenyl) tetramethylenediamine, N, N'-bis- (4-methylaminophenyl) tetramethyl) L-diamine, N, N'-bis (ethyl) N, N'-bis (4'-amino, 3'-methylphenyl) ethylenediamine, 1,8-bis (2,5-diamino phenoxy) -3 , 6-dioxaoctane, and their addition salts. Among para-aminophenols, para-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 4-amino-3-fluoro phenol, 4-amino-3-chlorophenol, 4- amino 3-hydroxymethyl phenol, 4-amino-2-methylphenol, 4-amino-2-hydroxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-methoxymethylphenol, 4-amino-2-aminomethylphenol, 4-amino-2 - ([ 3-hydroxyethylaminomethyl) phenol, 4-amino-2-fluoro phenol, and their addition salts with an acid. Among the ortho-aminophenols, mention may be made, for example, of 2-amino phenol, 2-amino-5-methylphenol, 2-amino-6-methylphenol and 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts. Among the heterocyclic bases that may be mentioned by way of example are pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives and pyrazole derivatives. Among the pyridine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described for example in patents GB 1 026 978 and GB 1 153 196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2- (4-methoxyphenyl) amino 3-amino pyridine, 3,4-diamino pyridine, and their addition salts. Other pyridinic oxidation bases useful in the present invention are the 3-amino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridines oxidation bases or their addition salts described for example in the patent application FR 2801308. By way of example, mention may be made of pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-acetylamino pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-carboxylic acid; 2-methoxy-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamino; (3-aminopyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -methanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) -ethanol; 2- (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) -ethanol; (3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-2-yl) -methanol; 3,6-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; 3,4-diamino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,7-diamine; 7-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridine-3,5-diamine; . 5-morpholin-4-yl-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-3-ylamine; 2 - [(3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 2 - [(3-Amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-yl) - (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] ethanol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-5-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-4-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-6-ol; 3-amino-pyrazolo [1,5-a] pyridin-7-ol; as well as their addition salts. Among the pyrimidine derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described, for example, in DE 2359399; JP 88-169571; JP 05-63124; EP 0770375 or patent application WO 96/15765 such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy 4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2 , 4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their addition salts and tautomeric forms, when tautomeric equilibrium exists. Among the pyrazole derivatives, mention may be made of the compounds described in DE 3843892, DE 4133957 and patent applications WO 94/08969, WO 94/08970, FR-A-2 733 749 and DE 195 43 988 as the 4.5 1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole, 3,4-diamino pyrazole, 4,5-diamino 1- (4'-chlorobenzyl) pyrazole, 4, 5-diamino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-methyl-1-phenylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-methyl-3-phenylpyrazole, 4-amino-1,3-dimethyl-5-hydrazino pyrazole, 1-benzyl 4,5-diamino-3-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-tert-butyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-tert-butyl-3-methyl pyrazole, 4 5-diamino 1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) 3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-methylpyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-1-ethyl-3-hydroxymethyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-methyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3-hydroxymethyl-1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4,5-diamino-3- meth 1-isopropyl pyrazole, 4-amino 5- (2'-aminoethyl) amino 1,3-dimethyl pyrazole, 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 1-methyl 3,4,5-triamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino-1-methyl-4-methylamino pyrazole, 3,5-diamino 4 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) amino-1-methyl pyrazole, and their addition salts. It is also possible to use 4-5-diamino-1 - ([3-methoxyethyl) pyrazole. Preferably, a 4,5-diaminopyrazole and even more preferably 4,5-diamino-1-β-hydroxyethylpyrazole and / or one of its salts will be used.

As pyrazole derivatives, mention may also be made of diamino N, N-dihydropyrazolopyrazolones and especially those described in application FR-A-2 886 136 such as the following compounds and their addition salts: 2,3-diamino-6 7-Dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-ethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] ] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3-isopropylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3- (pyrrolidin-1) -yl) -6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-dimethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3 -one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4,5-diamino-1,2-di- (2-hydroxyethyl) -1,2-dihydro pyrazol-3-one, 2-amino-3- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2-amino-3 6-dimethylamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 2,3-diamino-5,6,7,8-tetrahydro-1H, 6H-pyridazino [ 1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one, 4-amino-1,2-diethyl-5- (pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 4-amino-5- (3-dimethyl amino-pyrrolidin-1-yl) -1,2-diethyl-1,2-dihydro-pyrazol-3-one, 2,3-diamino-6-hydroxy-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [ 1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one. It will be preferred to use 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2-a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof. As heterocyclic bases, use will preferably be made of 4,5-diamino-1 - ([3-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and / or 2,3-diamino-6,7-dihydro-1H, 5H-pyrazolo [1,2 a] pyrazol-1-one and / or a salt thereof.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more couplers advantageously chosen from those conventionally used for dyeing keratinous fibers. Among these couplers, there may be mentioned meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalenic couplers, heterocyclic couplers and their addition salts. By way of example, mention may be made of 1,3-dihydroxybenzene, 1,3-dihydroxy-2-methylbenzene, 4-chloro-1,3-dihydroxybenzene and 2,4-diamino-1- hydroxyethyloxy) benzene, 2-amino 4- (R-hydroxyethylamino) 1-methoxybenzene, 1,3-diamino benzene, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) propane, 3-ureido aniline, 3-ureido-dimethylamino benzene, sesamol, 1-β-hydroxyethylamino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, α-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 6-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxyindole, 4-hydroxy N-methylindole, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, 1-N- (3-hydroxyethyl) amino-3 , 4-methylene dioxybenzene, 2,6-bis- (R-hydroxyethylamino) toluene, 6-hydroxy indoline, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methyl pyridine, 1-H 3 -methyl pyrazole 5-one, 1-phenyl-3-methyl-pyrazole-5-one, 2,6-dimethyl-pyrazolo [1,5-b] -1,2,4-triazole, 2,6-dimethyl [3,2-c] -1, 2,4-triazole, 6-methyl pyrazolo [1,5-a] benzimidazole, their addition salts with an acid, and mixtures thereof. In general, the addition salts of the oxidation bases and couplers that can be used in the context of the invention are chosen especially from the addition salts with an acid such as hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulphates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates. The oxidation base (s) each advantageously represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The content of the coupler (s), if they are (are) present, are each advantageously from 0.0001 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As regards the direct dyes, the latter are more particularly chosen from ionic or nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.

As examples of suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of azo direct dyes; methinic; carbonyls; azinic; nitro (hetero) aryl; tri- (hetero) aryl methanes; porphyrins; phthalocyanines and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

More particularly, the azo dyes comprise a function -N = N- whose two nitrogen atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. However, it is not excluded that one of the two nitrogen atoms of the sequence -N = -N- is engaged in a cycle. The dyes of the family of methines are more particularly compounds comprising at least one sequence chosen from> C = C <and -N = C <whose two atoms are not simultaneously engaged in a ring. It is however specified that one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the chains can be engaged in a cycle. More particularly, the dyes of this family are derived from methine, azomethine, mono- and di-arylmethane compounds, indoamines (or diphenylamines), indophenols, indoanilines, carbocyanines, azacabocyanines and their isomers, diazacarbocyanines and their isomers, tetraazacarbocyanines, hemicyanines. As regards the dyes of the carbonyl family, mention may be made, for example, of the dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso) violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigo, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole, coumarin. As regards the dyes of the family of cyclic azines, there may be mentioned in particular azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di) oxazine, (di) thiazine, pyronine. The nitro (hetero) aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitro pyridinic direct dyes. With regard to porphyrin or phthalocyanine dyes, it is possible to use cationic or non-cationic compounds, optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for example alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.

By way of example of particularly suitable direct dyes, mention may be made of the nitro dyes of the benzene series; azo direct dyes; azomethines; methinic; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone dyes; direct azine dyes; xanthenics; triarylmethanics; indoamines; indigoids; phthalocyanines, porphyrins and natural direct dyes, alone or in mixtures.

These dyes may be monochromophoric dyes (that is to say comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric dyes, preferably di- or trichromophoric dyes; the chromophores which may be identical or different, of the same chemical family or not. It should be noted that a polychromophoric dye comprises several radicals each derived from an absorbing molecule in the visible range between 400 and 800 nm. In addition, this absorbance of the dye does not require any prior oxidation thereof, or association with other (s) species (s) chemical (s). In the case of polychromophoric dyes, the chromophores are connected to each other by means of at least one linker which may or may not be cationic. Preferably, the linker is a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising (CO, SO2), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one unsubstituted or substituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted by two optionally substituted C1-C15 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group. If the heterocycles or aromatic rings are substituted, they are, for example, substituted with one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or amino group substituted by one or more groups. two C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or both radicals which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another identical heteroatom or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C1-C2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.

Among the benzene direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, the following compounds may be mentioned in a nonlimiting manner: 1,4-diamino-2-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-2-nitro-4-R-hydroxyethylaminobenzene-1-amino -2-nitro-4-bis ((3-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene-1,4-bis (R-hydroxyethylamino) -2-nitrobenzene-1-R-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-bis - ((3-hydroxyethylamino ) -benzene-1-R-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4-aminobenzene-1- (3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitro-4- (ethyl) (R-hydroxyethyl) -aminobenzene-1-amino-3-methyl- 443-hydroxyethylamino-6-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-nitro-4- (3-hydroxyethylamino) -5-chlorobenzene-1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2- (3-hydroxyethylamino) -5- nitrobenzene - 1,2-bis - ((3-hydroxyethylamino) -4-nitrobenzene-1-amino-2-tris- (hydroxymethyl) methylamino-5-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-amino-5-nitrobenzene-1 Hydroxy-2-amino-4-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-3-nitro-4-aminobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-amino-4,6-dinitrobenzene-1- (3-hydroxyethyl) oxy-2-G3-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene-1-methoxy-2-p-hydroxyethylamino-5-nitrobenzene-1-p-hydroxyethyloxy-3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene-1- (3-yl) dihydroxypropyloxy-3 4-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene-1- [3-hydroxyethylamino-4- (3-yl) dihydroxypropyloxy-2-nitrobenzene-1- (3-yl) dihydroxypropylamino-4-trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene-1- (3-hydroxyethylamino) -methylamino-4-nitrobenzene 4-Trifluoromethyl-2-nitrobenzene-1- (3-hydroxyethylamino-3-methyl-2-nitrobenzene) -1- (3-aminoethylamino) -5-methoxy-2-nitrobenzene 22-1-Hydroxy-2-chloro-6- ethylamino-4-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-2-chloro-6-amino-4-nitrobenzene

1-Hydroxy-6-bis - ([3-hydroxyethyl) -amino-3-nitrobenzene-1- [3-hydroxyethylamino-2-nitrobenzene-1-hydroxy-4-yl-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene. Among the azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851, FR-2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073. Thus, the following dyestuffs of formulas (I) to (IV), and preferably the compounds of formulas (I) and (III), may be mentioned in particular. R'3 R \ AD = D / - N (I) x R2 R3 in which:

D represents a nitrogen atom or the group -CH,

R 2 and R 2, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom; a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical which may be substituted with a -CN, -OH or -NH 2 radical or form, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated or nitrogenous heterocycle, which may be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals; C4; a 4'-aminophenyl radical,

R3 and R'3, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a cyano, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical; C4 or acetyloxy, X - represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate,

A represents a group chosen by the following structures A1 to A18 in a more

Advantageous A1, A4, A7, A13 and A18: 4 N + N R4 R4 AI + 1 \ R4 N \ A4 A2 R4 N + N +

R4 N R4 A3 R4 N - N +

## STR1 ## wherein R4 represents an alkyl radical, wherein R4 represents an alkyl radical, wherein R4 represents an alkyl radical; C1-C4 may be substituted by a hydroxyl radical and R5 represents a C1-C4 alkoxy radical; R8 R4 R4 N + R4 ~~ N + II ~} - NI \ N ~ ss R4 BNN RE N R_ R9 in which: R6 represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R represents a hydrogen atom an alkyl radical which may be substituted by a radical -CN or by an amino group, a 4'-aminophenyl radical or forms with R 6 an optionally oxygenated and / or nitrogen heterocycle which may be substituted by a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 and R9, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 alkoxy radical; CN, X - represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, B represents a group chosen by the following structures B1 to B6: Rio Rio. Wherein R10 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R1 and R12, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; N + N + Rio; R11N N S 1 R12 EùD1. Wherein R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, a halogen atom such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, R14 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or forms, with a carbon atom of the benzene ring, an optionally oxygenated heterocycle and / or substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl groups; R 15 represents a hydrogen atom; or halogen such as bromine, chlorine, iodine or fluorine, R16 and R17, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical, D1 and D2, which are identical or different , represent a nitrogen atom or the group -CH, m = 0 or 1, preferably 1, it being understood that when R13 represents an unsubstituted amino group, then D1 and D2 simultaneously represent a -CH group and m = 0 , X - represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, methyl sulfate and acetate, E represents is a group chosen from the structures E1 to E8, more particularly E1, E2 and E7, as follows: ## STR1 ## wherein R 'N + N + E4 E3 and NN + R' E6 1 R 'E7 E8 R in which R 'represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical; when m = 0 and D, represents a nitrogen atom, then E may also denote a group of structure E9 R 'E9 R' in which R 'represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical.

G-N- - N J in which:

the symbol G represents a group chosen from among the following structures G, to G3: 2 \ R24 R19 N + XRi8 G,

structures G1 to G3 in which R18 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a phenyl radical which may be substituted by a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a halogen selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and the like; fluorine

R19 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical;

R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical, or form together in G a benzene ring substituted with one or more C 1 -C 4 C 1 -C 4 alkoxy or C 2 -C 4 alkyl radicals; or together form in G2 a benzene ring optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl, C1-C4 alkoxy or NO2 radicals; N + X-M R 1 G 3 G 2 R 20 may also denote a hydrogen atom; Z is an oxygen atom, sulfur atom or a group -NR19; M represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; K represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; P represents a group -CH, -CR (R denoting C1-C4 alkyl), or -NR22 (X-) r; r is zero or 1; R22 represents an O atom, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, or a C1-C4 alkyl radical; R23 and R24, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or a C1-C4 alkoxy radical; NO2; X represents an anion preferably selected from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate; with the proviso that, if R22 is O, then r is zero; if K or P or M denote -N-C 1 -C 4 alkyl, then R 23 or R 24 is preferably different from a hydrogen atom; if K denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then M = P = -CH, -CR; if M denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then K = P = -CH, -CR; if P denotes -NR22 (X-) r, then K = M and denote -CH or -CR; if Z denotes a sulfur atom with R 21 denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl, then R 20 is different from a hydrogen atom; if Z denotes -NR 22 with R 19 denoting C 1 -C 4 alkyl, then at least one of the radicals R 18, R 20 or R 21 of the group of structure G 2 is different from a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical;

the symbol J represents: - (a) a group of structure J, following: structure J, in which R 25 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom chosen from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 alkoxy radical, a -OH, -NO2, -NHR28, -NR29R30, -NHCO C1-C4 alkyl radical, or form with R26 a 5- or 6-membered ring containing or not one or more heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R 26 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom selected from chlorine, bromine, iodine and fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, C 1 -C 4 alkoxy radical, or form with R27 or R28 a ring 5- or 6-membered ring containing or not containing one or more heteroatoms selected from nitrogen, oxygen or sulfur; R27 represents a hydrogen atom, an -OH radical, a -NHR28 radical, a -NR29R30 radical; R28 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C2-04 polyhydroxyalkyl radical or a phenyl radical; R29 and R39, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C4 alkyl radical, a C1-C4 monohydroxyalkyl or a C2-C4 polyhydroxyalkyl radical; (b) a 5- or 6-membered nitrogenous heterocyclic group capable of containing other heteroatoms and / or carbonyl groups and which may be substituted by one or more C 1 -C 4 alkyl, amino or phenyl radicals, and in particular a group of next J2 structure: / Ra, N

O Raz structure J2 in which,

R31 and R32, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical

C1-C4, a phenyl radical; CH 3 Y denotes the radical -CO- or the radical -c

n = 0 or 1, with, when n denotes 1, U denotes the -CO- radical. In the structures (I) to (IV) defined above, the alkyl or (C 1 -C 4) alkoxy group preferably denotes methyl, ethyl, butyl, methoxy, ethoxy. of the formulas (I) and (III), the following compounds are preferred: ## STR2 ## CH 3 CH 3 (CH 3) N + CH 3 CH 3 N + N / CH 3 H 3 CN + CN NX} HH 3C - N + Among the compounds CH3 N = N CH3 X- H2 x- ùN = NN // N = N N + CH3 CH3 X-N CH3 OCH3 X- The following dyes may also be mentioned among the azo direct dyes , described in the COLOR INDEX INTERNATIONAL 3rd edition: - Disperse Red 17 - Basic Red 22 - Basic Red 76 - Basic Yellow 57 - Basic Brown 16 - Basic Brown 17 - Disperse Black 9. We can also mention 1- (4'- aminodiphenylazo) -2-methyl-4bis - ((3-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene Among the quinone direct dyes, the following dyes may be mentioned: - Disperse Red 15 - Solvent Purple 13 - Disperse Violet 1 - Disperse Violet 4 - Disperse Blue 1 - Disperse Violet 8 - Disperse Blue 3 - Disperse Red 11 - Disperse Blue 7 - Basic Blue 22 - Disperse Violet 15 - Basic Blue 99 as well as the following compounds: - 1-N-methylmorpholiniumpropylamino-4-hydroxyanthraquinone 1-Aminopropylamino-4-methylaminoanthraquinone-1-aminopropylaminoanthraquinone-5- [3-hydroxyethyl-1,4-diaminoanthraquinone-2-aminoethylaminoanthraquinone-1,4-bis (3,7-dihydroxypropylamino) anthraquinone. Among the azine dyes, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Blue 17 - Basic Red 2. Among the triarylmethane dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: - Basic Green 1 - Basic Violet 3 - Basic Violet 14 Among the indoamine dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds: 2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5- [bis ((3-hydroxy-4-hydroxyethyl) amino] anilino-1,4-benzoquinone - 2- (3-hydroxyethylamino-5- (2'-methoxy-4'-amino) anilino-1,4-benzoquinone-3-N (2'-chloro-4'-hydroxy) phenyl-acetylamino-6-methoxy-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3-N (3'-chloro-4'-methylamino) phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone imine-3- [4'- N- (Ethyl, carbamylmethyl) -amino] -phenyl-ureido-6-methyl-1,4-benzoquinone ~ NN /% N% N ~ NN +% NN, X i NNXNN (NX OMe NN% NN ~ NN OMe X OMe NN% N, N, NN OMe II 1 XN% N, 2 X + - ,,., N% N, N,! ~ R NNNNNN OH ~ OH N + ~ N% N ~~ N ~ NN NO% NvN NnN X 1 NN / NNNN X NN NVN, NN X represents an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate.

Among the polychromophoric dyes, mention may more particularly be made of azo and / or azomethine (hydrazone) di- or trichromophoric dyes, symmetrical or otherwise, comprising on the one hand at least one aromatic heterocycle comprising 5 or 6 ring members, optionally condensed. comprising at least one imine atom.

Among the tetraazapentamethine type dyes that may be used according to the invention, quaternized nitrogen, engaged in said heterocycle and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur, oxygen), and secondly, may be used. at least one optionally substituted phenyl or naphthyl group optionally carrying at least one OR group with R representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl radical, an optionally substituted phenyl ring, or at least one a group N (R ') 2 with R', which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted C1-C6 alkyl radical or an optionally substituted phenyl ring; the radicals R 'which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are bonded, a saturated 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, or else one and / or both radicals R' may each form with the carbon atom of the aromatic ring placed in ortho of the nitrogen atom, a 5- or 6-membered saturated heterocycle. As aromatic cationic heterocycle, there may be mentioned, preferably, 5- or 6-membered rings comprising 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms, preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle being optionally further fused to a benzene ring. It should also be noted that the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom different from nitrogen, such as sulfur or oxygen. If the heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, they are substituted, for example, with one or more C 1 -C 8 alkyl radicals optionally substituted by a hydroxyl, C 1 -C 2 alkoxy or C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or substituted amino group. one or two C1-C4 alkyl radicals, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group or both radicals which can form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another heteroatom; identical or different from nitrogen; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a C 1 -C 2 alkoxy radical; a C2-C4 hydroxyalkoxy radical; an amino radical; an amino radical substituted with one or two identical or different C 1 -C 4 alkyl radicals optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group. These polychromophores are connected to one another by means of at least one linking arm optionally comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom, which may or may not be engaged in a saturated or unsaturated, optionally aromatic heterocycle.

Preferably, the linker is a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C20 alkyl chain, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom (such as nitrogen, oxygen) and / or by at least one group comprising (CO, SO2), optionally interrupted by at least one heterocycle condensed or not with a phenyl ring and comprising at least one quaternized nitrogen atom engaged in said ring and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted by at least one unsubstituted or substituted phenyl or naphthyl group, optionally at least one quaternary ammonium group substituted with two optionally substituted C 1 -C 5 alkyl groups; the linking arm does not comprise a nitro, nitroso or peroxo group.

The link between the linker and each chromophore is generally by means of a heteroatom which substitutes the phenyl or naphthyl ring or by means of the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle.

The dye may comprise identical or different chromophores. By way of examples of such dyes, reference may especially be made to patent applications EP 1637566, EP 1619221, EP 1634926, EP 1619220, EP 1672033, EP 1671954, EP 1671955, EP 1679312, EP 1671951, EP167952, EP167971, WO 06/063866, WO 06/063867, WO 06/063868, WO 06/063869, EP 1408919, EP 1377264, EP 1377262, EP 1377261, EP 1377263, EP 1399425, EP 1399117, EP 1416909, EP 1399116, EP 1671560. can also also use cationic direct dyes cited in applications EP 1006153, which describes dyes comprising two anthraquinone chromophores connected by means of a cationic linker; EP 1433472, EP 1433474, EP 1433471 and EP 1433473 which describe identical or different dichromophoric dyes, connected by a cationic or non-cationic linking arm, as well as EP 6291333 which describes in particular dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore to which are connected two azo-type chromophores or diazacarbocyanine or one of its isomers.

Among the natural direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurine, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use the extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes, and in particular poultices or extracts made from henna.

When present, the direct dye (s) more particularly represent from 0.0001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight. The composition (B) may comprise one and / or the other type of dyes. It may optionally correspond to two coloring compositions, one comprising the oxidation dye (s) and the other, the direct dye (s).

The composition (B) may be an aqueous composition or not. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the composition (B) is an aqueous composition. It may optionally comprise an organic solvent. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (B), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

The cosmetic composition (B) may also contain various adjuvants such as those mentioned especially in the context of the composition (A), such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants or mixtures thereof, anionic and cationic polymers, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, in particular anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; conditioning agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents.

The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). The composition may also include one or more organic thickeners. These thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol or coconut monoethanol amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones with a fatty chain (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules). According to one particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum). ), the crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.

The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually ranges from 0.01% to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.

Finally, the process is carried out with a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates and alkali metal percarbonates or alkaline earth as well as peracids and their precursors. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide and especially in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide) whose concentration may vary, more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, more particularly between 0.5 and 20% by weight. , And more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight of the oxidizing composition.

Depending on the desired degree of lightening, the oxidizing agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent preferably chosen from peroxygenated salts. Preferably, the oxidizing agent is not selected from peroxygenated salts and peracids and precursors.

The oxidizing composition may be aqueous or non-aqueous. The term "aqueous composition" means a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the composition (C) is an aqueous composition. It may also include one or more organic solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof. The solvent (s), if they are present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight.

The oxidizing composition may comprise one or more acidifying agents. Acidifying agents include, for example, inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition (C), when it is aqueous, is less than 7. The oxidizing composition (C) may also contain other ingredients conventionally used in the field, such as those detailed previously in the context of the present invention. compositions (A) and (B).

Finally, the oxidizing composition is in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel.

According to a first variant of the invention, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the anhydrous composition (A), of the composition (B) and of the composition (B) is applied to the dry or wet keratinous fibers. of the above-mentioned aqueous oxidizing composition (C). In this variant, the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0, 3 to 3. Preferably, the weight ratio R 1 (A) + (B) / (C) ranges from 0.5 to 1.

According to a second variant of the process, the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing. The compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) and then (A) and then (C) are preferably applied. According to another variant, it is also possible to apply successively and without intermediate rinsing, the composition (C) and the resulting mixture of the compositions (A) and (B). In these two variants, the weight ratios R 1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R 2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) are more particularly from 0.1 to 10, and from preferably from 0.3 to 3.

In addition, irrespective of the variant used, the mixture present on the fibers (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixing of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) or from their successive partial or total application) is left in place. for a duration, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes. The temperature during the process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C.) and 80 ° C., preferably between room temperature and 40 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry.

It is specified that if the composition applied to the hair (comprising the compositions (A), (B) and (C)) included ammonia, its content would be less than or equal to 0.03% by weight of the final composition (expressed as NH3), more particularly less than or equal to 0.01% by weight relative to the final composition. It is stated that the final composition results from the mixing of the compositions (A), (B) and (C); these mixtures being made either before application on the keratinous fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly on the keratinous fibers (successive applications with or without premixes and without intermediate rinsing). But the compositions (A), (B) and (C) preferably do not include ammonia.

Finally, the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) free of organic amine comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, and in a second, a composition (B). comprising monoethanolamine, one or more basic amino acids, and one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature. EXAMPLE 1

The following compositions are prepared (unless indicated otherwise, the amounts are expressed in g%): Composition A Sorbitan mono-laurate oxyethylenated (40E) 21.67 Pyrogenized silica hydrophobic _ 11 Vaseline oil Qsp 100 Composition B1 Paraphenylene diamine 6.55 Resorcinol 4.95 2-methyl-resorcinol 1.8625 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol HCl 0.15 Sodium metabisulfite 0.455 Erythorbic acid 0.31 Pure monoethanolamine 40.07 Arginine 7.00 1 Water Qsp 100 At the time of use: - 10 parts by weight composition A, 4 parts by weight of composition B1 with 15 parts by weight of international platinum oxidizer 20 volumes (amount of hydrogen peroxide 6% by weight).

Each mixture is then applied to a lock of natural hair 90% white (BN), and a lock of hair with 90% of white permed (BP).

The mixing bath / wick ratio is respectively 10/1 (g / g). The break time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the locks are rinsed, then washed with Elsève multivitamin shampoo, and dried.

The composition of the invention leads to a powerful and low-selective mat. EXAMPLE 2

The following compositions are prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed in g%):

Composition A Sorbitan mono-laurate oxyethylenated (40E) 21.67 Pyrogenic silica with hydrophobic character 11 Petrolatum oil Qsp 100 Composition B1 1-hydroxy-4-amino-benzene 3.27 2-amino-3-hydroxypiridine 3.30 Metabisulphite sodium 0.455 i Erythorbic acid 0.31 Pure monoethanolamine 40.0 Arginine 7.00 Oleic alcohol polyglycerol with 2 moles of ~ lcerol 2.1 1 Oleic alcohol polyglycerolated with 4 moles of glycerol 3.0 MA Oleic acid 1.58 Oleic aminel 2 moles of ethylene oxide 3.69 sold under the trade name ETHOMEEN 012 by the company Akzo Laurylamino diethylaminopropyl succinamate, 1.58 MA 55% sodium salt MA oleic alcohol 2,64 Oleic acid diethanolamide 6, 32 Ethyl alcohol 3.69 Propylene glycol 1.84 Dipropylene glycol 0.26 Propylene glycol monomethyl ether 4.74 Demineralized water qs Qs 100 MA: active ingredient

At the time of use, 10 parts by weight of the composition A are mixed together with 4 parts by weight of the composition B1 with 15 parts by weight of international platinum oxidizer 20 volumes (amount of hydrogen peroxide) % in weight).

Each mixture is then applied to a lock of natural hair 90% white (BN), and a lock of hair with 90% of white permed (BP). The mixing bath / wick ratio is respectively 10/1 (g / g). The break time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the locks are rinsed, then washed with Elsève multivitamin shampoo, and dried.

The composition of the invention leads to a powerful copper and low selective.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. A process for dyeing human keratin fibers in which is carried out: a) an anhydrous composition (A) free of organic amine, comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants; b) a composition (B) comprising monoethanolamine and one or more basic amino acids, one or more oxidation dyes and / or direct dyes; c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. 2. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acids. fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, non-silicone waxes, silicones. 3. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are preferably chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, non-silicone oils of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, fatty alcohols. fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol, silicones. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds, and preferably liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fat content is between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight. , based on the weight of the anhydrous composition (A). 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, more particularly chosen from mono- or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. 7. Process according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the content of surfactants represents from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition (A). . 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the basic amino acid or acids are chosen from compounds of the following formula (I): ## STR1 ## where R denotes a group chosen from : - (CH 2) 2 NH 2 - (CH 2) 2 NH 2 NH 2 NH 9. The method of claim 8, characterized in that the basic amino acid or acids are selected from arginine, histidine, lysine, or mixtures thereof. 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of monoethanolamine represents from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition ( B). 11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the basic amino acid content is from 0.1 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (B). 12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio monoethanolamine / basic amino acid ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.3 to 10, and even more preferably from 1 to 5. 25 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the compositions (A), (B) and (k) is applied to the keratinous fibers. C). 14. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, characterized in that the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are preferably applied to the keratin fibers successively and without intermediate rinsing. the compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) then (A) and then (C). 15. Process according to claim 1, wherein the composition (C) and the resulting mixture of compositions (A) and (B). 16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratios R1 of the quantities of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10 and preferably 0.3 to 3. 17. A multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment, an anhydrous composition (A) according to one of claims 1 to 7, in another compartment a composition (B) as defined in one of claims 1 and 8 to 12, and in a third compartment, an aqueous composition comprising one or more oxidizing agents.