FR2925360A1 - Composition in oil-in-water emulsion form, useful e.g. for non-therapeutic care or make-up of skin, preferably scalp, hair and/or lips, comprises fatty phase, inulin modified by hydrophobic chain, and other hydrophilic acrylic polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition in oil-in-water emulsion form, comprises at least 5 wt.% of fatty phase, at least 0.1 wt.% of inulin modified by hydrophobic chain, and at least 0.05 wt.% of other hydrophilic acrylic polymer (crosslinked sodium polyacrylate), in a medium.

Description

High oil O / W emulsions stabilized with a hydrophobic modified inulin and a hydrophilic acrylic polymer

The invention relates to the stabilization of oil-in-water emulsions containing high levels of fat, even without added surfactant.

It relates to compositions in the form of oil-in-water (O / W) emulsions containing i) at least 5% by weight of fatty substances relative to the total weight of the composition, ii) at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, and iii) at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer other than a homo - or crosslinked acrylic copolymer at least partially neutralized.

Compositions are sought in the form of oil-in-water emulsions rich in fatty substances (content greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), especially for the care of dry skin.

But the stabilization of these emulsions rich in fat requires the use of emulsifying systems associated with significant levels of surfactants and / or thickeners, which have the disadvantage of sensory increase the texture and provide a sticky feel, sticky and some irritant potential, especially for sensitive or reactive skin.

As conventional stabilizing systems, use is made in particular of surfactant systems (sugar esters, such as sucrose laurate), fatty alcohols, alkyl polyglucosides, polyglycerolated esters, and / or thickeners (xanthan gum, magnesium silicate). 'aluminum). Moreover, in the presence of high levels of fatty substances (for example 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), it is common to use hydrophobic acrylic polymers (eg Carbopol 2020) associated with strong surfactants. HLB. But these complex systems containing thickeners and surfactants at high levels may have the disadvantage of sensory increase the texture while providing a tacky, tacky and some irritating potential.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the combination (a) of a hydrophobic modified inulin which, as such, has low emulsifying properties, with (b) at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer, such as for example a homopolymer of AMPS, allowed to obtain stable emulsions and pleasant sensory, when the compositions contain more than 5% by weight of fat relative to the total weight of the composition, and this, even without added surfactant.

While the combination of a hydrophobic modified inulin with a hydrophobic acrylic polymer, such as an ethoxylated (25OE) cross-linked AMPS / methacrylate copolymer, did not provide satisfactory results in terms of stability and sensory properties. .

The invention therefore relates in particular to a composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, i) at least 5% by weight of a fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition ii) at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, iii) at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of minus a hydrophilic acrylic polymer other than a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate.

In particular, the composition comprises at least 10% fat phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to another mode, the composition comprises at least 20% of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to yet another embodiment, the composition comprises at least 30% fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition. The compositions according to the invention are in the form of O / W emulsions, and in particular are free of emulsifying surfactants. .

By "emulsifying surfactant-free" is meant according to the invention compositions containing less than 1%, preferably less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight or 0% by weight of emulsifying surfactant .

AQUEOUS PHASE The aqueous phase generally contains water and hydrophilic adjuvants, including monoalcohols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol, and polyols such as glycerine and propane diol, glycols. such as pentylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, isoprene glycol and polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures. The water may be floral water such as cornflower water and / or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or thermal water. The water-miscible polyol at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) may in particular be chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the mono, di or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, the mono, di or triethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers; ; and their mixtures.

The water-miscible polyol at room temperature may be in the composition in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight. .

The composition according to the invention may comprise a monoalcohol having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol or isopropanol, especially in a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the invention, and preferably ranging from 1% to 70% by weight.

The aqueous phase (including with polyols and other water-soluble or water-dispersible compounds) may comprise from 50 to 88% by weight, preferably from 60 to 85% by weight, more preferably from 65 to 85% by weight, based on to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophilic Acrylic Polymers By "hydrophilic acrylic polymers" according to the invention is meant in particular non-hydrophobic and non-amphiphilic acrylic polymers. Said hydrophilic acrylic polymers according to the invention are either acrylic polymers of polyacrylamidomethylpropanesulphonic acid (AMPS) or acrylic acid polymers other than partially neutralized crosslinked acrylic homopolymers or copolymers. The presence of this hydrophilic acrylic polymer makes it possible to obtain a composition having good stability properties.

Acrylic polymer having at least one sulfonic group monomer

According to a first embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic polymer used according to the invention comprises at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group.

The polymers comprising at least one monomer containing a sulfonic group, used in the composition of the invention, are advantageously water-soluble or water-dispersible or swellable in water. The polymers used according to the invention are homopolymers which can be obtained from at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer and with a sulphonic group, which can be in free form or partially or completely neutralized.

Preferably, the polymers according to the invention may be partially or completely neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or tri-ethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, the N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized. The term "neutralized" in the present invention means polymers which are totally or substantially completely neutralized, that is to say neutralized to at least 90%. The polymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number average molecular weight ranging from 1000 to 20,000,000 g / mol, preferably from 20,000 to 5,000,000 and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500. 000 g / mole.

These polymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.

The monomers containing a sulphonic group of the polymer used in the composition of the invention are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids and N- (C) acids. , -C22) alkyl- (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulfonic acid such as undecyl-acrylamido-methanesulphonic acid, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the monomers containing a sulphonic group are chosen from (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids such as, for example, acrylamido-methanesulfonic acid, acrylamido acid and ethanesulfonic acid, acrylamido-propanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4-trimethylpentanesulfonic acid, 2-methacrylamido-dodecylsulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptanesulfonic acid, and as their partially or totally neutralized forms, and their mixtures.

More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) and its partially or completely neutralized forms are used.

When the polymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents may be chosen from the olefinically-polyunsaturated compounds commonly used for crosslinking the polymers obtained by radical polymerization.

Examples of crosslinking agents that may be mentioned include divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, di (meth) acrylate and the like. ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol, trimethylol propane triacrylate, methylene-bis-acrylamide, methylene-bis-methacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetra-allyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl meth) acrylate, the allyl ethers of alcohols of the series of sugars, or other allyl- or vinyl-ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and the allyl esters of the derivatives of phosphoric acid and / or vinylphosphonic acid; , or mixtures of these compounds.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylene-bis-acrylamide, allyl methacrylate or trimethylolpropane.

6 triacrylate (TMPTA). The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.

The sulfonic monomer homopolymer may be crosslinked with one or more crosslinking agents.

These homopolymers are generally crosslinked and neutralized, and they can be obtained according to the preparation process comprising the following steps: (a) the monomer, such as 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid in free form, is dispersed or dissolved in a solution of t-butanol or water and t-butanol;

(b) the solution or dispersion of monomer obtained in (a) is neutralized with one or more inorganic or organic bases, preferably ammonia NH 3, in an amount making it possible to obtain a degree of neutralization of the sulfonic acid functions of the polymer; ranging from 90 to 100%;

(c) adding to the solution or dispersion obtained in (b), the crosslinking monomer (s); (d) conventional radical polymerization is carried out in the presence of free radical initiators at a temperature of from 10 to 150 ° C; the precipitating polymer in the tert-butanol solution or dispersion.

The preferred AMPS homopolymers are generally characterized in that they comprise, randomly distributed: a) from 90 to 99.9% by weight of units of the following general formula (II): CH 2 SO 3 X + (II) Wherein X + denotes a proton, an alkali metal cation, an alkaline earth cation or the ammonium ion, at most 10 mol% of the X + cations may be H + protons;

b) from 0.01 to 10% by weight of crosslinking units from at least one monomer having at least two olefinic double bonds; the proportions by weight being defined with respect to the total weight of the polymer.

The more particularly preferred homopolymers according to the invention comprise from 98 to 99.5% by weight of units of formula (II) and from 0.2 to 2% by weight of crosslinking units.

As polymers of this type, mention may be made in particular of crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, marketed by Clariant under the trade name Hostacerin AMPS (CTFA name: ammonium polyacryldimethyltauramide).

Acrylamide / AMPS Copolymers According to another embodiment, the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is a crosslinked anionic copolymer consisting of units derived from the reaction between (i) acrylamide (monomer 1), (ii) 2-acrylamido acid 2 methyl propanesulfonic acid (monomer 2, hereinafter referred to as AMPS convenience) and (iii) at least one olefinic polyunsaturated compound (monomer 3), here constituting the crosslinking agent.

The crosslinked anionic copolymers used in the context of the present invention are products already known per se and their preparation has been described in particular in the patent application EP-A-0 503 853, the content of which is therefore totally included for reference in this description.

The above copolymers can thus be obtained conventionally according to the so-called emulsion polymerization technique from the three different comonomers forming part of their constitution. The olefinic polyunsaturated monomers used as crosslinking agents for the preparation of the copolymers according to the invention are preferably chosen from the group consisting of methylenebisacrylamide, allyl sucrose and pentaerythritol. Even more preferentially, methylene bis-acrylamide is used. Preferably, said olefinic polyunsaturated compound is present in the copolymer at a concentration of between 0.06 and 1 millimole per mole of all the monomeric units.

The ratio, expressed as mol%, between acrylamide and AMPS is preferably between 85/15 and 15/85, advantageously between 70/30 and 30/70, even more preferably between 65/35 and 35/65. , and more particularly between 60/40 and 40/60. In addition, the AMPS is generally at least partially neutralized in the form of a salt, for example by sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, or a low molecular weight amine such as triethanolamine, or mixtures thereof.

A crosslinked copolymer which is particularly preferred in the context of the practice of the present invention corresponds to that as prepared in Example 1 of the aforementioned EP-A-0 503 853, which is then in the form of of a water-in-oil inverse emulsion. More specifically, this copolymer consists of 60 mol% of acrylamide and 40 mol% of sodium salt of AMPS, and is crosslinked with methylene bis-acrylamide at a rate of 0.22 millimole per mole of the mixture. total of monomers. The final water-in-oil inverse emulsion, for its part, contains, and preferably, about 40% by weight of crosslinked copolymer as defined above and of the order of 4% by weight of an ethoxylated fatty alcohol. having an HLB of about 12.5. The products sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) are more particularly used according to the invention as crosslinked copolymer. ) sold by the company Seppic.

Other hydrophilic acrylic polymers

As other hydrophilic acrylic polymers that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of: the homo- or copolymers of acrylic acids or their salts, such as the products sold under the names Carbopol 934, 940, 954, 981 and 980 by the NOVEON company, Synthalen L from the company 3V, the sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name DARVAN No. 7 by the company VANDERBILT; polymers of glyceryl acrylate, and in particular copolymers of glyceryl acrylate and of acrylic acid, such as the products sold under the names LUBRAJEL MS, LUBRAJEL CG, LUBRAJEL DV, LUBRAJEL NP, LUBRAJE L 011, LUBRAJEL BG Oil, LUBRAJEL PF, LUBRAJEL TW, LUBRAJEL WA by Guardian Laboratories. LUBRAJEL MS is preferably used. copolymers of acrylic acid / vinyl alcohol salt, such as the product sold under the Hydragen FN name of Cognis, and mixtures thereof.

The hydrophilic acrylic polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in an active material content ranging, for example, from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0 to , 1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

FATTY PHASE (OILY) The composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of a fatty phase. This generally comprises an oily phase.

The fatty phase is present in the composition according to the invention preferably in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 10 to 40% by weight, and more preferably from 15 to 30% by weight.

The fatty or oily phase consists of oils and all the other fatty substances and lipophilic constituents (eg cosmetic active agents, UV filters) that may be present in the composition of the invention. There may be mentioned in particular oils, fatty esters, waxes and butters, which may respectively be of natural origin (animal, vegetable) or synthetic.

Preferably, use will be made of naturally occurring fatty substances such as vegetable oils, fatty esters of vegetable origin and waxes or butters of vegetable origin.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oily phase contains at least one hydrocarbon oil of natural origin and / or at least one wax of natural origin.

The oily phase is a fatty phase containing at least one fatty substance chosen from oils that are liquid at room temperature (20-25 ° C.), volatile or otherwise, gums and pasty fatty substances, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic, and mixtures thereof. These fats are physiologically acceptable.

The oily phase may also include any usual liposoluble or lipodispersible additive.

Preferably, the oily phase contains at least one oil, more particularly at least one cosmetic oil. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). The oil may be a volatile oil, chosen in particular from volatile silicone oils, non-silicone volatile oils.

By volatile oil is meant any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating from the skin or the lips, in less than one hour, especially having a vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure ranging from 10-3 to 300 mm. Hg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa).

As the volatile oil that may be used in the invention, non-silicone volatile oils may be used, in particular C 8 -C 16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPAR. of PERMETHYL and in particular isododecane (PERMETHYL 99 A).

As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicones having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. In particular, there may be mentioned octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The oil can also be a non-volatile oil. The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil capable of remaining on the skin at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure for at least one hour and having in particular a vapor pressure at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, which is not zero. less than 0.01 mmHg (1.33 Pa). As non-volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of: non-volatile non-silicone oils, in particular hydrocarbon oils, such as liquid paraffin (or petroleum jelly), squalane, hydrogenated polyisobutylene (Parleam oil), perhydrosqualene, mink oil, turtle oil, soy oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, arara oil, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cotton, apricot, castor oil, avocado, jojoba, argan olive, sweet almond, apricot kernel, rice bran, camellia, or cereal sprouts; as preferred oils, use will be made of jojoba oil, apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof; ; esters of lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, stearic acid; esters derived from acids or alcohols with a long chain (that is to say having from 6 to 20 carbon atoms), in particular esters of formula RCOOR 'in which R represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R 'represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular the C 12 -C 36 esters, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, stearate of butyl, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2-octyl decyl palmitate, myristate or 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate, di (2-ethyl hexyl) succinate, diisostearyl malate, glycerin or diglycerine triisostearate; higher fatty acids, especially C14-C22 fatty acids, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid; higher fatty alcohols, especially C16-C22, such as cetanol, oleic alcohol, linoleic or linolenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyl dodecanol; and their mixtures.

non-volatile silicone oils such as non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids (especially C8-C20), fatty alcohols (especially C8-C20) or polyoxyalkylenes (especially polyoxyethylene and / or polyoxypropylene); amino silicones; silicones containing a hydroxyl group; fluorinated silicones comprising a fluorinated group during or at the end of the silicone chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms, all or part of the hydrogen of which is substituted by fluorine atoms; and their mixtures The choice of oils is made in particular depending on the purpose. Thus, triglycerides and vegetable oils such as apricot oil or olive oil are preferred for compositions intended for dry skin, whereas lighter fatty acid esters are preferred for compositions intended for use in dry skin compositions. with normal to combination skin.

The other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid and palmitic acid; waxes such as lanolin, beeswax, carnauba or candelilla wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes or microcrystalline waxes, ceresin or ozokerite, synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes, waxes polymethylene, Fischer-Tropsch waxes; gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins such as trifluoromethyl-C1-4-alkyldimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone, and silicone elastomers such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the name "Trefil" by the Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries, and their mixtures.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.

The amount of oily phase in the composition of the invention is greater than or equal to 5% by weight, preferably greater than or equal to 10% by weight, even more preferably greater than or equal to 20% by weight and better still, greater than or equal to to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. It may range, for example, from 11 to 50% by weight, preferably from 12 to 40% by weight, better still from 15 to 40% by weight and more preferably from 15 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Hydrophobic modified inulin According to the invention, the term "hydrophobic modified inulin" is understood to mean in particular an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of said inulin.

Inulin belongs to the fructan family.

Fructans or fructosans are oligosaccharides or polysaccharides comprising a sequence of anhydrofructose units optionally associated with a plurality of different saccharide residues of fructose. The fructans can be linear or branched. The fructans can be products obtained directly from a plant or microbial source or products whose chain length has been modified (increased or reduced) by fractionation, synthesis or hydrolysis in particular enzymatic. The fructans generally have a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60. There are 3 groups of fructans. The first group corresponds to products whose fructose units are mostly linked by 13-2-1 bonds. These are essentially linear fructans such as inulin. The second group also corresponds to linear fructoses but the fructose units are essentially linked by 13-2-6 bonds. These products are levanes. The third group corresponds to mixed frucans, that is to say having sequences 13-2-6 and 13-2-1. These are essentially branched fructans than graminans.

Inulin can be obtained for example from chicory, dahlia or Jerusalem artichokes. Preferably, the inulin used in the composition according to the invention is obtained for example from chicory.

The inulins used in the compositions according to the invention are hydrophobic modified. In particular, they are obtained by grafting hydrophobic chains onto the hydrophilic backbone of the fructan.

The hydrophobic chains capable of being grafted onto the main chain of the fructan can in particular be linear or branched hydrocarbon chains, saturated or unsaturated, having from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, such as the alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl or alkylene groups; divalent cycloaliphatic groups or organopolysiloxane chains. These hydrocarbon or organopolysiloxane chains may in particular comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, and / or sulphonamide functions, such as especially methylenedicyclohexyl and isophorone; or divalent aromatic groups such as phenylene.

In particular, the inulin has a degree of polymerization of from 2 to about 1000 and preferably from 2 to about 60, and a degree of substitution of less than 2 based on a fructose unit.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains have at least one alkyl carbamate group of formula R-NH-CO- in which R is an alkyl group having from 1 to 22 carbon atoms.

According to a more preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups.

In particular, by way of illustration and without limitation, hydrophobic modified inulins which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of stearoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem Inst by the company Engelhard and Rheopearl INS by the company Ciba ; palmitoyl inulin; undecylenoyl inulin such as those sold under the names Lifidrem INUK and Lifidrem INUM by the company Engelhard; and inulin lauryl carbamate such as that sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company Orafti.

In particular, a lauryl carbamate-grafted inulin is used, in particular resulting from the reaction of lauryl isocyanate with an inulin, in particular derived from chicory. By way of example of these compounds, mention may be made especially of the product sold under the name INUTEC SPI by the company ORAFTI. The level of hydrophobic modified inulin in the composition of the invention may range from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 10% by weight and preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weight of active substance relative to to the total weight of said composition. The level of hydrophobic modified inulin is selected according to the level of fat present in said composition. Preferably, the weight ratio (by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) of hydrophobic modified inulin on fatty substances may range from 0.1: 1 to 0.1: 15, preferably from 0.1: 5 at 0.1: 15, still more preferably from 0.1: 8 to 0.1: 12. Preferably, it will be 0.1: 10. The compositions according to the invention may be cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Preferably, it will be cosmetic compositions. The composition according to the invention contains a physiologically acceptable medium. By physiologically acceptable medium is meant in the present invention, a nontoxic medium, compatible with the skin (including the interior of the eyelids), the mucous membranes, the hair or the lips of human beings. A cosmetic composition is a product having a pleasant appearance, odor and feel, and intended for topical application.

In known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain adjuvants usual in the cosmetic and / or dermatological fields, such as preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, fillers, pigments, UV filters, absorbents, odor and dyestuffs.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition further comprises at least one UV filter, preferably at least one lipophilic or liposoluble UV filter.

Among the lipophilic UV filters that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of those chosen from anthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives, camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described in patent applications US 4367390, EP863145, EP517104, EP570838, EP796851, EP775698, EP878469, EP933376, EP507691, EP507692, EP790243, EP944624; benzophenone derivatives; 13,13-diphenylacrylate derivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzalmalonate derivatives including those cited in US5624663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines; p-aminobenzoic acid derivatives (PABA); benzoxazole derivatives as described in patent applications EP0832642, EP1027883, EP1300137 and DE10162844; filter polymers and silicone filters such as those described in particular in the application WO-93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene such as those described in patent application DE19855649, 4,4-diarylbutadienes such as those described in patent applications DE19755649, EP916335, EP1133980, EP1133981 and EP-A-1008586 and mixtures thereof .

Examples of lipophilic organic filters that may be mentioned are those referred to above under their INCI name: Derivatives of para-aminobenzoic acid Ethyl PABA, Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP, Salicylic derivatives : Homosalate sold under the name Eusolex HMS by Rona / EM Industries, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan OS by Haarmann and Reimer, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name Neo Heliopan TS by Haarmann and Reimer, 10 Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by HOFFMANN LAROCHE, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, 15 cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX by HOFFMANN LAROCHE, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnama you,

Derivatives of R, 13-diphenylacrylate: Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF,

Derivatives of benzophenone: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name Helisorb 11 by Norquay 35 Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name Spectra-Sorb UV-24 by American Cyanamid Benzophenone-9 sold under the trade name UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, 2- (4-diethylamino) 2-hydroxybenzoyl) n-hexyl benzoate

Derivatives of benzylidene camphor: 3-Benzylidene camphor manufactured under the name MEXORYL SD by CHIMEX, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK,

Triazine derivatives: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V 15 2, 4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine.

Derivatives of benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name Silatrizole by Rhodia Chimie, Anthranilic Derivatives: Menthyl Anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by Haarmann and REIMER,

Imidazoline Derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate,

Derivatives of benzalmalonate: Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions such as polysilicone-15 sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by HOFFMANN LAROCHE

4,4-diarylbutadiene: 1,1-dicarboxy- (2'2'-dimethylpropyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene benzoxazole derivatives: 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2 -yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine sold as Uvasorb K2A by Sigma 3V; and their mixtures.

The lipophilic organic filters that are more particularly preferred are chosen from the following compounds: Homosalate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Benzophenone-3, N-hexyl 2- (4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl) benzoate 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor , 2,4,6-tris (dineopentyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate) -s-triazine 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -s-triazine Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Ethylhexyl triazone , Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane Polysilicone Di-neopentyl 4'-methoxybenzalmalonate 1,1-dicarboxy- (2'2'-dimethyl-propyl) -4,4-diphenylbutadiene 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) ) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1,3,5-triazine and mixtures thereof.

And even more preferentially among Homosalate Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane Ethylhexyl Triazone, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Drometrizole Trisiloxane The lipophilic filters according to the invention are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.5 to 15%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight and even more preferably at least 10% by weight of UV filter relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention advantageously contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active agent. Advantageously, ingredients and / or actives of natural origin will be used.

As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of powders of natural organic materials such as starches of maize, wheat or rice; or natural mineral materials such as silica, talc, clays such as kaolin, montmorillonite, saponites, laponites and illites. The amount of fillers is preferably less than or equal to 8% of the total weight of the composition, and better still less than or equal to 5% of the total weight of the composition. When present, these fillers may be in amounts ranging for example from 0.05 to 8% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

As cosmetic or dermatological active agents that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of moisturizing agents; anti-free radical agents; keratolytic and desquamating agents; vitamins; anti-elastase and anti-collagenase agents; trace elements; seaweed or plankton extracts; enzymes and co-enzymes; flavonoids and isoflavonoids; ceramides; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; and myorelaxant or dermo-decontracting agents; and their mixtures.

Examples of active agents that may be mentioned include (N-2-hydroxyethylpiperazine-N-2-ethane) sulfonic acid (HEPES); hyaluronic acid; lanolin; urea, mixtures containing urea, such as NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor), and urea derivatives such as N- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea (Hydrovance from National Starch); 2-oxothiazolidine-4-carboxylic acid (procysteine); α-hydroxy acids, especially acids derived from fruits, such as glycolic, lactic, malic, citric, tartaric and mandelic acids, their derivatives and mixtures thereof; 13-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid or 5-nodecanoyl salicylic acid; α-ketoacids such as ascorbic acid or vitamin C and its derivatives such as its salts such as sodium ascorbate, magnesium or sodium ascorbylphosphate; its esters such as ascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbyl propionate, or its sugars such as glycosylated ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof; 13-keto acids; retinoids such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives, as well as the retinoids described in documents FR-A-2,570,377, EP-A-199,636, EP-A-325 540, EP-A-402,072, EP-A-325,540, EP-A-402,072; carotenoids such as lycopene; ceramides; sapogenins and plant extracts containing them, in particular extracts of Wild Yam; resveratrol; pseudodipeptides such as {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethylphenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid; vitamins, for example, in addition to the vitamins A and C indicated above, vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B3 (or vitamin PP or niacinamide), vitamin B5 (panthenol in its various forms: D-panthenol, DL panthenol), vitamin D, vitamin F (a mixture of essential fatty acids), derivatives, precursors and analogues of these vitamins; soy extracts, particularly soy protein hydrolysates or isoflavone-rich soy extracts; trace elements such as copper, zinc, selenium, iron, magnesium, manganese; algae extracts such as the product marketed under the name STIMODERM by the company CLR; plankton extracts such as plankton in aqueous dispersion (CTFA name: Vitreoscilla Ferment) marketed under the name MEXORYL SAH by the company Chimex; enzymes; coenzymes such as ubiquinone or coenzyme Q10 which belongs to the family of alkaline chain benzoquinones, coenzyme R which is biotin (or vitamin H); yeast extracts such as the extract of s.cerevisiae sold under the name CYTOVITIN LS 9388 by the Serobiobiology laboratories; adenosine; plant extracts such as licorice extract; soothing agents such as bisabolol and soothing plant extracts such as rose extract (rosa gallica) and mint extracts (mentha piperita); and any suitable active for the final purpose of the composition, and mixtures thereof. The ingredients and / or active ingredients will be present in the composition at contents ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 10% and even more preferentially from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition. These ingredients and / or active ingredients and their concentrations must be such that they do not modify the property desired for the composition of the invention.

The composition according to the invention finds its application in a large number of treatments including cosmetic skin, including scalp, hair, nails, and / or mucous membranes, especially for care, cleaning and / or makeup and / or sun protection of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

Also, the subject of the present invention is the cosmetic use of the composition as defined above, for the treatment, the protection, the care, the cleansing and / or the cleansing of the skin, lips and / or hair , and / or for makeup of the skin and / or lips.

The present invention also relates to a non-therapeutic method of care, makeup or make-up removal of the skin, including the scalp, hair and / or lips, comprising the application to the skin, the hair and / or the lips, of a composition as defined above.

In particular, the composition according to the invention is used for the care and / or treatment of dry and / or sensitive skin.

The following examples of compositions according to the invention are given by way of illustration and without limitation. The compounds are indicated in chemical name or INCI name.

Quantities are given in% by weight unless otherwise stated. EXAMPLES Example 1: Comparative Examples of Stability 30% moisturizing care cream Formula Ex a Ex b Phase A Preservative 0/0 qs Glycerine qs 3 Water 3 Qsp 100 AMPS copolymer / methacrylate of Qsp 100 0.5 ethoxylated behenyl ( 25OE) crosslinked with 0.5 trimethylolpropane triacrylate TMPTA (ARISTOFLEX HMB from Clariant) Polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) Phase B Hydrophobic-modified inulin (Inutec SPI 0.3 0.3 from ORAFTI) Cyclohexadecane 13 13 Isohehadecane 7 7 Plant Perhydrosqualene 10 10 10 Procedure

Preparation of phase A by dispersing the ingredients in water with stirring at 70 ° C. Homogenization until a smooth gel is obtained.

Emulsification to 60 ° by dispersion of the oily phase in the aqueous phase with stirring.

The (comparative) emulsion containing a hydrophobic acrylic polymer has an unsatisfactory stability, as shown by its microscopic appearance: a coarse emulsion is observed in which the size of the globules is irregular. Over time (2 months storage at room temperature, 37 ° C and 45 ° C), there is a degradation of the macroscopic appearance (more heterogeneous and shiny) and microscopic emulsion (very coarse). In addition the viscosity changes over time (thickening at T2 months at room temperature and viscosity drop at T 2 months 45 ° C).

The emulsion b) according to the invention has however a microscopic appearance in accordance with a stable emulsion, and the stability is maintained over time under the same conditions of conservation. Photoprotection formulas FORMULA type Ex c Ex d 0/0 Preservative qs Glycerine 3 Phase A Water Qsp 100 Copolymer AMPS / methacrylate 0.5% ethoxylated behenyl (25OE) crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate TMPTA (ARISTOFLEX HMB from Clariant) 23 25 Polyacrylamidomethyl propane acid Partially neutralized partially aqueous ammonia sulfonic acid (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) (AMPS cross-linked homopolymer) Phase B Hydrophobic-modified inulin (Inutec SP 0.3 0.3 of ORAFTI) 8 Isononyl isononyl butylmethoxy dibenzoyl methane (Parsol 3 3 1789 of DSM Nutritional) 7 7 Octocrylene Ethyl hexyl salicylate 5 The emulsion c (comparative with hydrophobic acrylic polymer) is not stable: it exhales very quickly and after 15 days, there is a very significant phase shift at all temperatures: TA, 37, 45 and 4 ° C. The emulsion d (according to the invention) is however stable, and the stability is maintained under the same conditions of conservation.

EXAMPLE 2 Formulations Moisturizing Care Cream (20% Oils) 0/0 Preservative Glycerine Water

Partially neutralized polyacrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid with ammonia and qs 3 Qsp 100 0.5 Highly cross-linked phase A (Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant) Hydrophobic modified inulin (Inutec SPI 0.3 OraFTI phase B) Cyclohexadecane 13 Isohehadecane 7 Plant perhydrosqualene 10 Procedure

Preparation of phase A by dispersing the ingredients in water with stirring at 70 ° C. Homogenization until a smooth gel is obtained. Emulsification to 52 ° by dispersion of the oily phase in the aqueous phase with stirring. We obtain a thick cream that turns into milk when applied to the skin, providing a hydrating soothing effect right from the application.

Claims (22)

1. Composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, i) at least 5% by weight of a fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition, ii) at least 0 , 01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of an inulin modified with hydrophobic chains, iii) at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition of at least one hydrophilic acrylic polymer other than cross-linked sodium polyacrylate. 2. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 10% fat phase relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 20% of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to claim 1, comprising at least 30% of fatty phase relative to the total weight of the composition. 5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the hydrophobic modified inulin is from 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. and more preferably still from 0.1 to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 30 A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the ratio of hydrophobic to fatty modified inulin is from 0.1: 1 to 0.1: 15, preferably from 0.1: 5 to 0.1: 15. more preferably from 0.1: 8 to 0.1: 12. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the ratio hydrophobic modified inulin / fat is 0.1: 10.20 8. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the inulin is obtained from chicory. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrophobic chains are lauryl carbamate groups. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is chosen from a homo-or a copolymer of a monomer containing a sulfonic group. 11. The composition according to claim 10, wherein the monomer containing a sulphonic group is chosen from vinylsulphonic acid, styrenesulphonic acid, (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic acids and N- (C 1 -C 4) acids. C22) alkyl- (meth) acrylamido (C 1 -C 22) alkylsulphonic, as well as their partially or completely neutralized forms, and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to claim 11, wherein the monomer containing sulfonic group is 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. The composition of claim 10, wherein the homopolymer is a crosslinked and neutralized homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid. 25 A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the hydrophilic acrylic polymer is a crosslinked anionic copolymer consisting of units derived from the reaction between (i) acrylamide (monomer 1), (ii) the acid 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (monomer 2, hereinafter referred to as AMPS convenience) and (iii) at least one olefinic polyunsaturated compound (monomer 3). 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrophilic acrylic polymer represents from 0.05 to 15% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase comprises at least one lipophilic UV filter. 17. Composition according to claim 16, comprising at least 2% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, and even more preferably at least 10% by weight of at least one lipophilic UV filter. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is free of surfactant. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one cosmetic adjuvant chosen from cosmetic or dermatological active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, perfumes, fillers, pigments, odor and coloring matter. 20. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising at least one active agent chosen from hydrating agents; anti-free radical agents; keratolytic and desquamating agents; vitamins; anti-elastase and anticollagenase agents; trace elements; seaweed or plankton extracts; enzymes and co-enzymes; flavonoids and isoflavonoids; ceramides; anti-glycation agents; NO-synthase inhibitors; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes; tensors; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical agents; and myorelaxant or dermodecontracting agents; and their mixtures. 21. Non-therapeutic method for the care, make-up or removal of make-up of the skin, including the scalp, the hair and / or the lips, comprising the application to the skin, the hair and / or the lips, of a Composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 22. Method according to the preceding claim for the care and / or treatment of dry and / or sensitive skin.