FR2909557A1 - Make-up composition comprises an earth pigment and reflective particles, goniochromatic or photochromic colorants, fluorescers or pearlescers - Google Patents

Abstract

Make-up composition comprises an earth pigment and reflective particles, goniochromatic or photochromic colorants, fluorescers or pearlescers.

Description

The subject of the present invention is a composition for making up or

  care of keratin materials comprising at least one coloring earth. The compositions according to the invention may be makeup or care compositions for keratin materials, in particular skin, nails, lips and keratinous fibers, in particular eyelashes, and preferably make-up compositions. The compositions according to the invention may be a free or compacted powder, a foundation, a blush, an anti-ring product, a blush, a lipstick, a lip balm or a lip gloss. , a lip or eye pencil, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish or a product for body make-up or skin coloring. The care composition may be a product for the care of eyelashes, nails, lips, care of the skin of the body and the face, in particular a sun product, a product for coloring the skin (such as a self-tanner). The compositions according to the invention contain coloring earths. For the purpose of the present invention, the coloring earths are mineral compounds. In common parlance, however, the term earth may designate a very large number of pulverulent compounds, inorganic or organic, such as alkaline earth oxides (lime, magnesia) called alkaline earths. In mineralogy, the term earthy usually designates a dull material, without luster, sometimes powdery.

  Land has been used since the dawn of humanity, for example as a body painting. Many burials were found where the body was covered with a layer of red ocher or kaolin. The use of red earth to cover the skin (red skins) is not without practical reason since the iron oxide it contains protects the epidermis from ultraviolet rays.

  The object of the present invention is to provide cosmetic compositions comprising coloring earths, said compositions being endowed with particular properties.

  The coloring earths, especially ochres, have the advantage of being natural pigments and are also of interest as color materials for make-up.  The Applicants have found that the hiding power of a coloring earth in the oils used to formulate cosmetic compositions is directly related to the amount of colored oxides that the earth contains.  This is why the subject of the present application is a range of products offered to the consumer, the products of the range having an equivalent hue but various coverings depending on the earth they contain.  For example, it is possible to vary the coverage of a product in the same range of red.  The Applicants also propose to the consumer makeup kits so that they can custom make colored makeup products 10 more or less covering depending on the coloring earth they choose.  The coloring earths furthermore have the advantage of bringing color while providing a softness close to that of the charges usually used in the field of cosmetics.  The present application therefore relates to cosmetic compositions having, for a color in the same or similar mass, a smoothness at the application higher than conventional compositions containing pigments.  The coloring earths, in particular ochres, also have the advantage of giving cosmetic compositions a color in the mass equivalent to conventional cosmetic compositions containing pigments, while makeup keratin materials with a better level of transparency.  The fillers usually used in cosmetics are particles of any shape, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic and insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.  It is generally silica, mica, talc, kaolin and more particularly of titanium oxides.  In the case of compositions of the foundation type intended more particularly for so-called dark and especially black skin, the presence of these particles may be detrimental to the desired aesthetic effect.  Indeed, these particles may, in certain circumstances, particularly related to their proportion within the composition and / or the color of the skin, generate a greyish colored effect at the level of the masked skin.  For obvious aesthetic reasons, such an effect is particularly undesirable.  Applicants have found that coloring earths can be advantageously used, for example, to replace fillers responsible for the gray effect which may appear after application on ethnic skins, especially black or dark skins.  The coloring earths have the advantage of being composed of fillers in which pigments are already dispersed in the native state.  The coloring earths also have the property of dispersing easily.  These two properties combined thus makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous color of the product in the mass with minimum grinding.  On the contrary, it is often necessary to grind the conventional pigments to disperse them in the cosmetic bases, in order to ensure their good dispersion and to ensure a homogeneous color of the product deposit on the keratin materials.  Therefore, the present invention also relates to cosmetic kits, comprising at least a first and a second composition, the first composition containing at least one oil, used as a binder, and the second composition containing at least one less a coloring earth.  Thanks to this kit, the consumer can choose the type of oil that suits her (moisturizing, soothing, emollient, protective) and the color of her which is obtained by means of a coloring earth or a mixture of earth dyes .  The consumer may also use the amount of oil and coloring earth she wishes according to her needs and skin type.  The present invention also relates to cosmetic kits, comprising at least a first and a second composition, the first composition being in the form of an emulsion cream, and the second composition containing at least one coloring earth.  Thanks to this kit, the consumer can choose a color by selecting several different coloring grounds or a mixture of coloring earths already ready for use.  The consumer incorporates in a manner at least one dose of coloring earth cream base not tinted and a cream, so as to adjust the desired hue.  The cream may be a skin care cream, such as a moisturizing cream, an anti-acne cream or an anti-aging, undyed cream.  The present invention also has a cosmetic treatment method which consists in the use of dye-earth monodoses for their extemporaneous incorporation into a cream usually used by the consumer.  The present invention also relates to cosmetic compositions, in particular make-up compositions comprising the combination of at least one type of coloring earth with at least one pigment and / or at least one filler and / or a colorant. which may be natural or synthetic.  Indeed, the combination of coloring earths with a diffusing pigment or an optical effect pigment makes it possible to widen the color range of the cosmetic product, to make a hue more saturated or more covering or to confer an additional optical effect other than the color itself, as an interference or diffracting effect.  Dyestuffs The coloring earths used in the context of the present invention may be naturally occurring inorganic powdery compounds consisting of natural fillers in which are dispersed pigments, which pigments may be natural or of natural origin.  By charges, it is necessary to understand colorless or white, lamellar or non-lamellar particles.  The fillers are conventionally used in cosmetics to modify the rheology, adjust the texture of the composition, reduce its gloss and / or as a matting agent to hide the skin defects of the surface to be made up.  By pigments, it is necessary to comprise colored particles, of a color other than white, mineral or organic, insoluble in the other ingredients of the cosmetic composition, intended to color and / or opacify the film of cosmetic composition deposited on the materials. keratin.  The pigments are preferably natural or natural mineral pigments.  By filler or natural pigment, it is necessary to understand compounds chosen from: - compounds of organic agricultural origin or wild plant with a reasoned sampling, - compounds of plant origin agricultural or from the protist kingdom, - compounds of non-fossil mineral origin, - compounds of animal origin, preferably compounds secreted by animals (beeswax).  The fillers and pigments of natural origin are natural compounds that have undergone transformations, these transformations being: 1) transformations that do not modify the composition of the raw material with respect to its origin, except possibly its water content; .  These transformations essentially cause changes in the physical appearance of the ingredient relative to its origin.  Examples of transformations falling into this category are: washing - crushing, - grinding, - drying, - lyophilization, - thermal preservation processes (appertisation, - pasteurisation), - preservation processes by pressure (pascalisation), - the addition of preservatives of vegetable origin being accepted.  2) methods for extracting, in the case of ingredients of plant origin, a given fraction of the plant without breaking covalent chemical bonds, which includes the following processes: - expression, - pressing, - Flash relaxation processes, - distillation, - extraction processes with water (decoction, infusion, maceration), ethanol extraction processes (including enfleurage), extraction processes Supercritical CO2, the above extraction processes using microwave heating, steam distillation, purification processes, purification methods based on the above technologies, coal purification processes. active, on oxides or on resin, 35 - thermal preservation processes (canning, pasteurization), - winterisation or frigelling processes, - biotransformations applied to raw materials are of plant origin and catalyzed by genetically unmodified organisms and whose original function corresponds to the targeted reaction, - methods of preservation by pressure (pascalisation) or by addition of preservatives of plant origin.  - The methods of genetic extraction do not fall into this category as well as the methods of conservation by irradiation.  (3) In the case of non-fossil mineral materials, the processes of transformation may be as follows: processes for purifying or modifying the raw material slightly without significant modification of its crystalline structure or composition, distillation, purification processes (elimination of heavy metals, organic compounds. . . ), - ionic exchange processes, - activated carbon, oxides or resin purification methods, thermal preservation processes, - pressure conservation methods (Pascalisation), 4) transformations by chemical process causing a minor modification, and in particular with regard to the compounds of vegetable origin: extraction by organic solvent (hexane, fluorinated ethers, or other), hydrolysis, esterification, oxidation using oxygen as oxidant the hydrogenations of olefins, the hydrogenations of acids and esters, the etherifications, the Guerbet reaction (intermolecular reaction between alcohol similar to a "cooking" process), and for the ingredients of non-fossil mineral origin: processes for obtaining materials by dissolution re-precipitation of mineral species leading to simple or structured oxides (zeolites, oporeux. . . 5) transformations for one for functionalization, in particular amination, nitration, sililation, carboxylation using catalysts of mineral or biological origin, as well as bio transformations by genetically modified organisms whose function corresponds or not to the original reaction, and the processes giving rise to the synthesis of oxide mixtures.  The coloring earth present in the composition according to the invention is preferably a non-fossil natural mineral compound or of natural origin as defined above in points 1) or 3).  In the present application, the terms mineral or inorganic are indifferently used.  The coloring earths can be classified or proposed according to their color, according to their geographical origin or according to their chemical composition.  For example, land from Italy or France can be distinguished, the name of the place of extraction can be specified next (Sienne, Yonne), yellow land, red soil, brown soil, green land, land. depending on their color, the colorimetric measurements in the L ab diagram can be specified, the soils of different chemical compositions depending on their content, in particular clay, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, kaolin, silica, calcium sulphate, hydrated alumina, metal oxides, knowing that the same land can be defined both by its geographical origin, its composition when known, and its color.  In France, there are sites for the production of coloring earths in the Ardennes (Siena deposit in Villers le Tourneur), in the Yonne (ocher deposits in Diges, Parly, Sauilly and Pourrain), in Nièvre (ocher deposits at Puisaye), in the Cher (ocher deposits), Périgord and Vaucluse.  In Italy, there are the lands of Siena in Tuscany (Arcidosso and Castel del Piano), deposits of red, yellow or black earth in Venetia near San Giovanni.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuffs" may cover soils containing between 25% and 65% of iron oxide expressed as Fe 2 O 3, ochres containing less than 25% of iron oxide, expressed as Fe2O3i and iron oxides which contain more than 65% iron oxide expressed as Fe2O3.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "dyestuffs" covers natural iron oxides.  According to the NFT 36 standard. 001 of 1988, - the natural yellow iron oxides are referenced in Color Index Pigment Yellow 43 - C. I 77492; they are hydrated iron oxides (goethite, lepidocrocite), 10 -the natural red iron oxides are referenced in Color Index Pigment Red 102-C. I 77491; it is a natural iron sesquioxide of the Hematite type, and the natural black iron oxides are referenced in Color Index Pigment Black 11 C. I 77499; it is magnetite charged with phosphorus and sulfur.  Treatment of coloring lands taken in the native state The coloring earths used in the context of the present invention taken in nature can undergo various purification treatments, such as washing, or grinding.  They can be used raw or calcined.  The coloring earths can be washed.  Washing a soil is a process known as "levigation".  In a washing process, for thirty minutes, a quantity of soil is marinated in three times its volume of water, in a closed container.  The lid is preferably at least three centimeters away from the liquid.  The mixture should then rest for a few seconds before being decanted.  Impurities and even large pieces of clay should be left in the bottom of the first container.  The operation can be repeated by increasing the marinating time each time.  The mixture is then dried and crushed using a knob or a mill.  The coloring earths can be pulverulent rocks, in particular chosen from ferruginous earths.  The ferruqinous coloring earths mainly contain colored metal oxides.  The metal oxides may be iron oxide or manganese oxide.  Ferruginous soils usually contain iron oxide and sometimes manganese oxide.  The ferruginous earths also contain a filler such as clay, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, kaolin, silica, calcium sulfate, hydrated alumina, or a mixture thereof.  Iron oxide present in ferruginous soils may be in hydrated form called Goethite (Yellow Iron Oxide) or in anhydrous form called Hematite (Red Iron Oxide).  Hematite exists in the native state, and it can also be obtained after calcination of Goethite.  It is thus possible, depending on the operating conditions of the calcination process, to vary the Goethite / Hematite ratio to obtain a color range of the coloring earth varying from light yellow to red.  Examples of such ferruginous lands are ochres, shady ground, red bowls and Siena lands.  The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least one ocher.  In common parlance we use indifferently the terms ocher yellow or yellow earth.  Similarly, the terms red ocher or red earth are used indifferently.  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "ochres" may refer to natural clays of variable color ranging from yellow to purplish red, more or less rich in ferric oxide, used raw or calcined (as defined by the NFT 36 standard. 001 of 1988).  Yellow ochres may also contain chromogenic impurities, such as oxides of manganese, carbon, or other organic matter.  Yellow Soil The main ingredient in yellow soils is yellow iron oxide.  Among the yellow lands present in the native state, we can mention: - the yellow lands from Italy, like the land of Siena natural, 30 - the yellow lands from France, as the sandstone type "ocher Puisaye" - American yellow soil - United Kingdom ocher (English yellow) or Oxford ocher - has not been mined for a long time.  Mixed naturally with clay (silicate, kaolin), the yellow iron oxide becomes yellow ocher.  The stability of yellow ocher, its chemical neutrality, its permanence, its coloring power, its hiding power and its low cost, make it a particularly preferred coloring earth in the context of the present invention.  The most famous varieties of yellow ocher come from the Yonne and other regions of the northern half of France.  Natural yellow ocher can be washed (levigation process).  Ocher is very often taken from sandy or very sandy soils.  We must extract the sand which, heavier than ocher, is deposited along gently sloping channels.  The diluted material is then recovered in settling basins, then dried or treated, as indicated above, by levigation, and milled.  Red Earth Examples of red coloring earths are red ocher, Mars red, Venetian red, Indian red, and English red.  15 Venetian red, Indian red and English red are all opaque reds that are very dyeable, much redder than pure red iron oxide (also called Mars red) or red ocher.  English red, is an oxide of red iron polysulfide sodium aluminosilicate, hence its rather purplish appearance.  Indian red is very close to English red, so much so that it is difficult to distinguish between different fabrications.  Some varieties are covering and coloring.  Red ocher, Mars red (natural iron oxide) and burnt sienna mainly contain a natural iron oxide or artificially obtained by calcination.  All of these pigments contain iron oxide free of water which keeps the hydrated compound in its yellow hue.  Often, natural red earths also contain clay and other ingredients such as manganese.  So there are varieties that are finally quite different in terms of their hues and textures.  Other examples of red coloring earths are burned Sienna, Pozzuoli red (Pozzuoli terra rosa, city near Naples), Ercolano red (Italy), Falun red (city of Sweden). a deposit), the red Van Dyck, the red macra, the bowl of Armenia, the sanguine, the hematite.  Green coloring earths include complex silicates such as: Glauconite which is an iron-containing complex of aluminum and potassium silicate, which substitutes more or less aluminum, and Celadonite which is a silicate of aluminum, magnesium and sodium containing iron.  Green coloring earths may contain copper.  The brown lands The chromatic trend of the non-calcined shade lands is blue-green.  Their calcinated varieties give a dark brown close to a chocolate brown.  Calcination causes dehydration similar to that which occurs when yellow ocher is cooked to a red color.  The shadow land of Cologne and the shadow land of Cyprus are greener.  Several other varieties come from Vaucluse (France) and Cassel (Germany).  There are also deposits in Umbria, a province of Italy in southern Tuscany and north of Lazio.  The coloring earths used in the cosmetic compositions of the invention are described in particular Les cahiers de Terres et Couleurs (reprint no. 3 February 1998) produced by the Center for Research and Restoration of the Museums of France.  The compositions according to the invention contain from 0.1% to 100% by weight of coloring earth, preferably of earth (s) natural dye (s).  They contain in particular from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.  Other ingredients of the formula The composition preferably contains in addition to the coloring earths described above, at least one other ingredient preferably selected from natural compounds.  For the purposes of the present invention, the expression "natural compounds" means: compounds of organic agricultural or wild vegetable origin with a reasoned sampling, compounds of vegetable origin originating from the protist kingdom, compounds of non-fossil mineral origin, - compounds of animal origin, preferably compounds secreted by animals (beeswax).  Compounds of natural origin are natural compounds that have undergone transformations, these transformations being: 1) transformations that do not modify the composition of the raw material with respect to its origin except possibly its water content.  These transformations essentially cause changes in the physical appearance of the ingredient relative to its origin.  Examples of transformations falling into this category are: crushing, grinding, drying, lyophilization, thermal preservation processes (pasteurization, pasteurization), pressure preservation processes (pasalisation), The addition of preservatives of vegetable origin being accepted.  2) methods for extracting, in the case of ingredients of plant origin, a given fraction of the plant without breaking covalent chemical bonds, which includes the following processes: - expression, - pressing, - flash relaxation processes, - distillation, - extraction processes with water (decoction, infusion, maceration), - ethanol extraction processes (including enfleurage), - extraction processes. supercritical CO2 extraction, - the above extraction processes using microwave heating, - steam distillation, - purification processes, - purification processes based on the above technologies, - the purification processes by passage over activated charcoal, on oxides or on resin, - thermal preservation processes (canning, pasteurization), - winterisation or frigmentation processes, - biotransformations applied to materials These are the first of plant origin catalysed by genetically unmodified organisms whose original function corresponds to the targeted reaction, the methods of preservation by pressure (pasalisation) or by the addition of preservatives of plant origin.  - The methods of genetic extraction do not fall into this category as well as the methods of conservation by irradiation.  (3) In the case of non-fossil mineral materials, the processes of transformation may be the following: processes for purifying or modifying the raw material slightly without significant modification of its crystalline structure or composition, distillation, purification processes (elimination of heavy metals, organic compounds. . . ), - ion exchange processes, - activated carbon, oxides or resin purification processes, - thermal preservation processes, - pressure conservation processes (Pascalisation), 4) transformations by a chemical process generating a minor modification, and in particular with regard to compounds of plant origin: extraction by organic solvent (hexane, fluorinated ethers, or other), hydrolysis, esterification, oxidation using oxygen as oxidizing, olefin hydrogenations, - hydrogenations of acids and esters, - etherification, - the Guerbet reaction (intermolecular reaction between alcohol similar to a "cooking" process), and for ingredients of non-fossil mineral origin: processes for obtaining materials by dissolution re-precipitation of mineral species leading to simple or structured oxides (zeolites, m sopor. . . 5) transformations for one for functionalization, in particular amination, nitration, sililation, carboxylation using catalysts of mineral or biological origin, as well as bio transformations by genetically modified organisms whose function corresponds or not to the original reaction, and the processes giving rise to the synthesis of oxide mixtures.  According to a first embodiment of the invention, it is especially considered that a compound is natural or of natural origin as defined above in points 4) or 5) when the weight amount of a natural compound or of origin is greater than 10 the amount by weight that does not meet this definition.  According to a second embodiment, it is considered in particular that a compound is natural or of natural origin as defined above in points 4) or 5) when the number of carbon atoms of a natural compound or of The natural origin is greater than the number of carbon atoms that do not meet this definition.  According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention contain more than 50% by weight of natural compounds, preferably more than 60%, more than 70%, more than 80%, or even more than 90% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.  The compositions according to the invention may consist exclusively of natural compounds.  Liquid fatty phase The composition advantageously comprises a liquid fatty phase.  By liquid fatty phase, in the sense of the application, is meant a fatty phase liquid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), composed of one or more non-aqueous liquid fats liquid at room temperature, called also oils or organic solvents.  The oil may be selected from volatile oils and / or non-volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.  The oil is preferably natural.  The oil or oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 80% by weight, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.  The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular from 0.degree. , 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa. at 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).  The term "non-volatile oil" means an oil remaining on the keratin materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).  These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.  The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms.  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as the esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet , barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R1 + R2 is 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate , diisopropyl adipate 2909557 16, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate ; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; 5 - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; - and their mixtures.  Aqueous Phase The composition may comprise an aqueous phase.  The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol isopropanol, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-04 ketones, C2 aldehydes; -04 and mixtures thereof.  The aqueous phase can in this case represent from 5 to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition comprising it, preferably from 10% to 85% by weight.  Solid or pasty aras bodies The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fatty substance that is solid at room temperature, especially chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.  These fatty substances may be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.  These fats are preferably natural.  The composition according to the invention may comprise a wax or a mixture of waxes.  In particular, hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes can be used; rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricurry wax, alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, wax, wax and wax sumac; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters.  Mention may also be made of hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name HEST 2T-4S by the company HETERENE, di- (trimethylol-1,1,1 propane) tetraprenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE.  Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms and fluorinated waxes.  It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with the stearyl alcohol sold under the name PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57 or even the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol. under the name PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73, by the company SOPHIM.  Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.  The composition according to the invention may comprise a pasty fatty substance.  Pasty fatty substance is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound containing, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.  The nature and quantity of the solid bodies depend on the mechanical properties and textures sought.  As an indication, each first or second composition may contain from 0.1 to 70% by weight of waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition, more preferably from 1 to 60% and more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight.  Dyestuffs The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional dyestuff, different from the dyestuff, chosen for example from pigments, pearlescent agents, dyes, pigments with a particular color effect and mixtures thereof.  The coloring material is preferably natural.  These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the weight of the composition.  The pigments useful in the present invention may be in the form of a powder or a pigment paste.  By dyes are meant compounds, generally organic, soluble in at least one oil or in a hydroalcoholic phase.  You can choose a natural dye.  By nacres or pearlescent pigments, one must understand colored or unstained particles, which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.  Among the mineral pigments, the oxides of zirconium or of cerium, as well as the oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate may be mentioned. chromium and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder.  Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.  Mention may also be made of effect pigments such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate whether or not covered with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, oxide of chromium and mixtures thereof.  The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica. covered with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.  It is also possible to use interferential pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments.  Charges The compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of each composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. % in weight.  The fillers may be mineral or organic in any form, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.).  Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-B-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning) and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres ( Silica Beads from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, 15 magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.  The compositions according to the invention may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics.  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the corresponding composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the proposed addition.  The composition according to the invention may be in the form of a suspension, a dispersion, a solution, a gel or an emulsion, in particular an oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion, a wax-in-water emulsion or a water-in-water emulsion. in-oil (W / O), or multiple (W / O / E or polyol / H / E or O / W / H), in the form of cream, paste, foam, dispersion of vesicles including ionic lipids or not, two-phase or multiphase lotion, spray, powder, paste, including soft dough.  Each composition is preferably a non-rinsed composition.  The composition can be advantageously used for makeup of the nails and / or skin and / or lips and / or eyelashes depending on the nature of the ingredients used.  In particular, it may be in the form of a solid foundation, cream foundation, stick or lipstick paste, loose powder or compact powder, concealer, contours of the eyes, eye liner, mascara, eye shadow, body make-up product or a product for coloring the skin.  The invention is further illustrated by the examples described hereinafter.  Unless otherwise indicated, the amounts indicated are expressed as a percentage by weight.  Example 1: Lipstick Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 40 BHT 0.1 Red ocher 8 Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) wax 8 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride 5.56 Astrocaryum Murumuru Butter 16 Canola Oil 17.34 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) wax 4 Oryza Sativa ( Rice) Starch Priza Sativa 1 Example 2: Foundation Phase Chemical name Grade (%) Sorbitan isosterate 5 Al Jojoba Oil 23 Propylparaben 0.1 A2 Bentone 1 Jojoba Oil 5 Meudon White 8.255 A3 Ocher Yellow 0.335 Red Ocher 1, 23 2909557 5 21 Vegetable carbon black 0.18 A4 Kaolin 4.7 Water 46.8 Glycerol 3 B Sodium chloride 0.7 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Methyl paraben 0.2

  Total 100 Example 3: Free powder Boron Nitride 6 Tocopherol 0.02 Kaolin 41.82 Light yellow ocher 7.37 Ocher Yellow 1.5 Ocher Red 0.67 Talc 10 Triisocetyl citrate 0.16 Plant black 0 Dimethicone 2.5 Cetyl dimethicone 0.4 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 0.22 Bismuth oxychloride 28.3 Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) 1 Panthenol 0.02 Aloe barbadensis leaf juice 0.02 Example 4: Free powder Boron Nitride 6 Tocopherol 0.02 2909557 5 22 Light yellow ocher 42.51 Ocher Yellow 1.87 Ocher Red 6.46 Talc 10 Triisocetyl citrate 0.16 Plant black 0.52 Dimethicone 2.5 Cetyl dimethicone 0.4 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 0.22 Bismuth oxychloride 28.3 Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) 1 Panthenol 0.02 Aloe barbadensis leaf juice 0.02 Example 5: Free powder Boron Nitride 6 Tocopherol 0.02 Light yellow ocher 40 Ocher Red 11.2 Talc 10 Triisocetyl citrate 0.16 Plant black 0.16 Dimethicone 2.5 Cetyl dimethicone 0.4 Trimethylsiloxysilicate 0.22 Bismuth oxychloride 28.3 Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba) 1 Panthenol 0.02 Aloe ba rbadensis leaf juice 0.02 Example 6: Microcrystalline lipstick Wax 2 2909557 5 lo 23 Ozokerite 5 Candelilla Wax 7 Carnauba Wax 3 Capric / caprylic acid triqlycerides 18 Octyldodecanol 10 Lanolin Oil 6 Acetylated lanolin Oil 9 Red Ercolano 10 Fragrance 0.5 Beaver Oil 29.5 Example 7: Compact Powder TALC 64.70 Ocher Light Yellow 5.86 Ocher Red 3.72 Black Carbonate 0.42 METHYLPARABEN 0.30 NYLON-12 10.00 DIMETHICONE 10.00 POLYMETHYLSILSESQUIOXANE 5.00 Example 8: Foundation Oil phase Isododecane 13 Cyclopentasiloxane 16 Cyclohexasiloxane 6.8 Polydimethylsiloxane 2 Isoeicosane 3 Cetyl dimethicone copolyol 2 2909557 24 Dimethicone copolyol 5 Polyglycerol isostearate 0.6 Hectorite 1.4 Meudon White (Natural Cacium Carbonate) 5.75 Red ocher 1.23 Yellow ocher 0.34 Plant charcoal black 0.18 Nylon powder 4 Water phase Butylene glycol 10 Sodium chloride 0.7 Water 28 Example 9: Powder INCI name US BORON NITRIDE 6.00 TALC 12.04 TRIISOCETYL CITRATE 0.15 COPERNICIA CERIFERA (CARNAUBA) WAX 1.00 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 20.00 IRON OXIDES 5.20 IRON OXIDES (and) IRON OXIDES 1.70 IRON OXIDES 0.46 CONSERVATIVE qs BISMUTH OXYCHLORIDE 30.00 ZINC OXIDE 20.00 DIMETHICONE 1.88 DIMETHICONE (and) TRIMETHYLSILOXYSILICATE 0.59 CETYL DIMETHICONE 0.36

Claims (9)

  1. Cosmetic makeup composition or non-therapeutic care of keratin materials comprising at least one coloring earth.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it is in the form of a solid foundation, cream foundation, stick or lipstick paste, loose powder or compact powder , anti-dark circles, eye contours, eye liner, mascara, eye shadow, body make-up product or a skin coloring product.   3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises a natural coloring earth.   4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that it comprises a coloring earth selected from ochres.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 50% by weight of natural compounds.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one dye or a pigment selected from interferential pigments, diffractive pigments and mixtures thereof.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one filler.   8. A cosmetic process for makeup or non-therapeutic care of the keratin materials selected from the nails, the skin, the lips, the eyelashes, the process consisting in: - manually mixing at least one first non-pigmented composition and at least one second composition comprising at least one coloring earth, - applying the mixture to said keratin materials. 25 35 2909557 26   9. Use of a cosmetic composition comprising a coloring earth for the makeup of dark skin.