FR2904547A1 - Use of a vegetable extract e.g. obtained from genus Linum made of proteic/peptidic compounds, to enhance the augmentation of melanin synthesis in melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb and improves the natural pigmentation of the skin - Google Patents
Use of a vegetable extract e.g. obtained from genus Linum made of proteic/peptidic compounds, to enhance the augmentation of melanin synthesis in melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb and improves the natural pigmentation of the skin Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2904547A1 FR2904547A1 FR0607106A FR0607106A FR2904547A1 FR 2904547 A1 FR2904547 A1 FR 2904547A1 FR 0607106 A FR0607106 A FR 0607106A FR 0607106 A FR0607106 A FR 0607106A FR 2904547 A1 FR2904547 A1 FR 2904547A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- skin
- extract
- use according
- composition
- hair
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
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- 230000008099 melanin synthesis Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 18
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
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- 241000894007 species Species 0.000 description 1
- 229940100459 steareth-20 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008117 stearic acid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000001954 sterilising effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000003756 stirring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000036561 sun exposure Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037072 sun protection Effects 0.000 description 1
- 201000009862 superficial mycosis Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
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- 230000001225 therapeutic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000032258 transport Effects 0.000 description 1
- UQSGRKAOAGGYCU-UHFFFAOYSA-N trimethyl-[phenyl(silyloxysilyloxy)silyl]oxysilane Chemical compound [SiH3]O[SiH2]O[SiH](O[Si](C)(C)C)C1=CC=CC=C1 UQSGRKAOAGGYCU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229940082509 xanthan gum Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WHNFPRLDDSXQCL-UAZQEYIDSA-N α-msh Chemical compound C([C@@H](C(=O)N[C@@H](CO)C(=O)N[C@@H](CCSC)C(=O)N[C@@H](CCC(O)=O)C(=O)N[C@@H](CC=1NC=NC=1)C(=O)N[C@@H](CC=1C=CC=CC=1)C(=O)N[C@@H](CCCNC(N)=N)C(=O)N[C@@H](CC=1C2=CC=CC=C2NC=1)C(=O)NCC(=O)N[C@@H](CCCCN)C(=O)N1[C@@H](CCC1)C(=O)N[C@@H](C(C)C)C(N)=O)NC(=O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O)C1=CC=C(O)C=C1 WHNFPRLDDSXQCL-UAZQEYIDSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
- A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
- A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
- A61K36/55—Linaceae (Flax family), e.g. Linum
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/04—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
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Abstract
Description
La présente invention concerne l'utilisation dans une composition cosmétique ou pour la préparation d'une composition pharmaceutique, d'une quantité efficace d'extrait de lin ; l'extrait ou la composition étant destinés à favoriser l'augmentation de la synthèse de mélanine dans les mélanocytes de l'épiderme ou du bulbe pileux, en vue de lui donner un aspect bronzé, ou de préparer la peau à une exposition au soleil, ou à des fins thérapeutiques, pour repigmenter la peau dépigmentée par exemple dans le cas du vitiligo, ou pour pigmenter les poils ou les cheveux, en particulier dans le traitement et la prévention de la canitie. The present invention relates to the use in a cosmetic composition or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of an effective amount of flax extract; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb, with a view to giving it a tanned appearance, or to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun, or for therapeutic purposes, for repigmenting depigmented skin for example in the case of vitiligo, or for pigmenting hair or hair, particularly in the treatment and prevention of canities.
La couleur des cheveux et de la peau humaine est fonction de différents facteurs et notamment des saisons de l'année, de la race, du sexe et de l'âge. Elle est principalement déterminée par la concentration de mélanine produite par les mélanocytes. Les mélanocytes sont les cellules spécialisées qui, par l'intermédiaire d'organites particuliers, les mélanosomes, synthétisent la mélanine. La synthèse de la mélanine ou mélanogénèse est un processus complexe dont les mécanismes précis ne sont pas encore élucidés et qui fait intervenir schématiquement les étapes suivantes :The color of human hair and skin is a function of various factors including seasons of the year, race, sex and age. It is mainly determined by the concentration of melanin produced by melanocytes. Melanocytes are specialized cells that, via particular organelles, melanosomes, synthesize melanin. The synthesis of melanin or melanogenesis is a complex process whose precise mechanisms are not yet elucidated and which schematically involves the following steps:
Tyrosine ^ Dopa ^ Dopaquinone ^ Dopachrome ^ MélanineTyrosine ^ Dopa ^ Dopaquinone ^ Dopachrome ^ Melanin
Dans l'épiderme, le mélanocyte est impliqué dans l'unité mélanique épidermique qui comporte un mélanocyte entouré d'environ 40 kératinocytes voisins. Au fur et à mesure que la mélanine est synthétisée dans les mélainosomes, ceux-ci se déplacent de la région périnucléaire vers l'extrémité des dendrites des mélanocytes. Par phagocytose, l'extrémité des dendrites est capturée par les kératinocytes, les membranes dégradées et les mélanosomes redistribués dans les kératinocytes, où ils assureront une protection jusqu'à la desquamation naturelle des cellules. La production de mélanine, ainsi que son transport, sont régulés par différents facteurs tels que, par exemple, le rayonnement UV, les hormones ou les produits chimiques. Ainsi, une augmentation de l'exposition aux rayonnements UV provoque la synthèse de pigments et le brunissement de la peau. La pigmentation du cheveu et des poils requiert la présence de mélanocytes au niveau du bulbe du follicule pileux. Le follicule pileux est une invagination tubulaire de l'épiderme qui s'enfonce jusqu'aux couches profondes du derme. Les mélanocytes au niveau du bulbe du follicule pileux sont dans un état actif, c'est-à-dire qu'ils synthétisent de la mélanine. Ces pigments sont transmis aux kératinocytes destinés à former la tige pilaire, ce qui conduira à la pousse d'un cheveu ou d'un poil pigmenté.Il est admis que la canitie (blanchiment naturel des cheveux) est associée à une diminution de mélanine dans la tige pilaire.In the epidermis, the melanocyte is involved in the epidermal melanic unit which comprises a melanocyte surrounded by about 40 neighboring keratinocytes. As melanin is synthesized in melainosomes, they move from the perinuclear region to the end of the melanocyte dendrites. By phagocytosis, the end of the dendrites is captured by keratinocytes, degraded membranes and redistributed melanosomes in the keratinocytes, where they will provide protection up to the natural desquamation of the cells. The production of melanin, as well as its transport, is regulated by various factors such as, for example, UV radiation, hormones or chemicals. Thus, an increase in exposure to UV radiation causes the synthesis of pigments and browning of the skin. The pigmentation of hair and hair requires the presence of melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle. The hair follicle is a tubular invagination of the epidermis that penetrates to the deep layers of the dermis. The melanocytes in the bulb of the hair follicle are in an active state, that is, they synthesize melanin. These pigments are transmitted to the keratinocytes intended to form the hair shaft, which will lead to the growth of a pigmented hair or hair. It is accepted that canitia (natural whitening of hair) is associated with a decrease of melanin in the hair shaft.
De nos jours, il est important d'avoir bonne mine et une peau bronzée est toujours signe de bonne santé. Cependant, le bronzage naturel n'est pas toujours sans risque dans la mesure où il nécessite des expositions prolongées aux rayonnements UV, qui sont susceptibles en contrepartie d'induire une altération des cellules cutanées, notamment dans le cas des individus de phototypes clairs. La peau vieillit prématurément, devient sèche et se caractérise par de nombreuses rides et taches de vieillesse. Il est donc souhaitable de trouver une alternative au bronzage naturel qui soit compatible avec les exigences de santé des individus. D'autre part, on sait que dans la plupart des populations le maintien d'une coloration constante de la chevelure, signe de jeunesse, est une aspiration forte. La recherche de composés pouvant favoriser la synthèse de la mélanine dans la peau et les cheveux est une préoccupation de la dermatologie et de la cosmétique. Ces nouveaux composés seraient notamment utiles comme alternative aux expositions solaires, pour préparer la peau et protéger celle-ci des rayons du soleil, pour obtenir un bronzage plus intense après une exposition au soleil, pour prolonger la pigmentation naturelle de la peau après une exposition au soleil ou pour prévenir et ou limiter et/ou stopper le développement de la canitie et même maintenir la pigmentation naturelle des cheveux et/ou des poils gris ou blancs.Nowadays, it is important to look good and tanned skin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is not always without risk insofar as it requires prolonged exposures to UV radiation, which are likely in return to induce an alteration of skin cells, especially in the case of individuals of clear phototypes. The skin ages prematurely, becomes dry and is characterized by many wrinkles and age spots. It is therefore desirable to find an alternative to natural tanning that is compatible with the health requirements of individuals. On the other hand, we know that in most populations the maintenance of a constant coloring of the hair, sign of youth, is a strong aspiration. The search for compounds that can promote the synthesis of melanin in the skin and hair is a concern of dermatology and cosmetics. These new compounds are particularly useful as an alternative to sun exposure, to prepare the skin and protect it from the sun's rays, to obtain a tan more intense after exposure to the sun, to prolong the natural pigmentation of the skin after exposure to the sun. sun or to prevent and / or limit and / or stop the development of canities and even maintain the natural pigmentation of hair and / or gray or white hairs.
On entend par pigmentation naturelle de la peau, la coloration de la peau ou des cheveux déterminée par la concentration en mélanine.By natural pigmentation of the skin is meant the coloring of the skin or hair determined by the melanin concentration.
A cet égard, il a été proposé de nombreuses solutions par apport de colorants exogènes, dont le plus connu est la dihydroxyacétone, ou DHA. Toutefois, seule la stimulation de la pigmentation de la peau et ou des cheveux par la voie naturelle permet une réelle protection vis à vis des rayonnements UV et reste la voie idéale de stimulation de la pigmentation. Ainsi il a été proposé dans l'art antérieur la préparation et l'utilisation d'activateurs de la biosynthèse de la mélanine (FR828097, FR 2831438, FR 2845285) faisant intervenir des hormones (alpha MSH ou ses dérivés WO2006037188) ou des prostaglandines (WO9511003).In this regard, many solutions have been proposed by adding exogenous dyes, the best known of which is dihydroxyacetone, or DHA. However, only the stimulation of the pigmentation of the skin and / or the hair by the natural way allows a real protection vis-à-vis the UV radiations and remains the ideal way of stimulation of the pigmentation. Thus, it has been proposed in the prior art the preparation and use of activators of melanin biosynthesis (FR828097, FR 2831438, FR 2845285) involving hormones (alpha MSH or its derivatives WO2006037188) or prostaglandins ( WO9511003).
D'autre part, il existe des pathologies liées à la pigmentation comme le vitiligo qui est une maladie auto-immune se caractérisant par l'apparition sur la peau de plaques blanches liées à un déficit de pigmentation ou encore le pityriasis versicolor, une mycose superficielleprovoquant l'apparition de taches claires pouvant se manifester d'emblée ou après une exposition au soleil.On the other hand, there are pathologies related to pigmentation such as vitiligo which is an autoimmune disease characterized by the appearance on the skin of white patches related to a lack of pigmentation or pityriasis versicolor, a superficial mycosis. causing the appearance of light spots that may appear immediately or after exposure to the sun.
La présente invention a pour principal objectif de fournir un nouveau principe actif favorisant de façon importante la synthèse de mélanine dans les mélanocytes de l'épiderme et du bulbe pileux. Les inventeurs ont en effet mis en évidence une activité biologique et, plus particulièrement dermatologique et cosmétique, d'un extrait de lin. Il a déjà été proposé, dans des documents antérieurs, des compositions cosmétiques contenant des extraits de lin par exemple le brevet WO2004010965 décrit une préparation cosmétique à base de lin utile contre le vieillissement. Cependant, à la connaissance de la demanderesse, il n'a jamais été décrit, dans l'art antérieur, l'utilisation d'un hydrolysat de protéines de plantes appartenant à la famille des lin, en tant que principe actif pour augmenter la synthèse de la mélanine dans les mélanocytes en cosmétique et/ou en dermatologie et/ou en pharmaceutique.The main objective of the present invention is to provide a new active ingredient that significantly promotes the synthesis of melanin in the melanocytes of the epidermis and hair bulb. The inventors have indeed demonstrated a biological activity and, more particularly dermatological and cosmetic, a flax extract. It has already been proposed in previous documents, cosmetic compositions containing linseed extracts, for example WO2004010965 discloses a cosmetic preparation containing linseed useful against aging. However, to the knowledge of the applicant, it has never been described, in the prior art, the use of a plant protein hydrolyzate belonging to the family of flax, as active ingredient to increase the synthesis melanin in melanocytes in cosmetics and / or in dermatology and / or in pharmaceuticals.
Par agent actif pro-pigmentant, on entend un composé capable de favoriser l'augmentation de la synthèse de mélanine dans les mélanocytes de l'épiderme ou du bulbe pileux. Par poils et cheveux on entend l'ensemble des annexes pileuses et notamment également les cils et les sourcils. Les compositions selon l'invention pourront être appliquées par toute voie appropriée, notamment orale, parentérale ou topique externe, et leur formulation sera adaptée par l'homme du métier, en particulier pour des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques. Avantageusement, les compositions selon l'invention sont destinées à une administration par voie topique. Elles contiennent un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, en particulier un milieu cosmétologiquement ou pharmaceutiquement, notamment dermatologiquement acceptable.By pro-pigmenting active agent is meant a compound capable of promoting the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb. By hair and hair is meant all the hairy appendages and in particular also the eyelashes and the eyebrows. The compositions according to the invention may be applied by any appropriate route, in particular oral, parenteral or external topical, and their formulation will be adapted by those skilled in the art, in particular for cosmetic or dermatological compositions. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention are intended for topical administration. They contain a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetologically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium, in particular a dermatologically acceptable medium.
Ainsi, l'invention a pour objet premier l'utilisation dans une composition, ou pour la préparation d'une telle composition, d'une quantité efficace d'extrait de lin ; l'extrait ou la composition étant destinés à favoriser l'augmentation de la synthèse de mélanine dans les mélanocytes de l'épiderme ou du bulbe pileux.Thus, the invention is primarily concerned with the use in a composition, or for the preparation of such a composition, of an effective amount of flax extract; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the increase of melanin synthesis in the melanocytes of the epidermis or hair bulb.
Le terme "extrait" désigne toute substance ou préparation isolée, obtenue à partir de matière végétale. Il s'obtient, par exemple, par dissolution des composants actifs au moyen de solvants (comme l'eau, l'alcool, etc.) puis par concentration et purification de ces actifs,par exemple, par évaporation des solvants.The term "extract" refers to any isolated substance or preparation obtained from plant material. It is obtained, for example, by dissolving the active components by means of solvents (such as water, alcohol, etc.) then by concentration and purification of these active ingredients, for example, by evaporation of the solvents.
Toute méthode d'extraction ou de purification connue de l'homme du métier peut être utilisée pour préparer l'extrait selon l'invention.Any method of extraction or purification known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the extract according to the invention.
Pour réaliser l'extraction, on peut utiliser la plante entière, ou une partie spécifique de la plante (feuille, grain, etc.)To carry out the extraction, one can use the whole plant, or a specific part of the plant (leaf, grain, etc.)
Plus particulièrement selon l'invention on utilise une des nombreuses plantes de la famille des linaceae. Ainsi le genre Linum compte près de 200 espèces poussant surtout dans les régions tempérées et subtropicales de l'hémisphère nord. Ce sont des plantes herbacées à tiges fibreuses, à feuilles simples, aux fleurs à 5 pétales. Toute méthode d'extraction ou de purification connue de l'homme du métier peut être utilisée afin de préparer l'hydrolysat selon l'invention. On peut, par exemple, dans une première étape, délipider des graines de lin, par un simple pressage et/ou par l'action d'un solvant organique classique (comme par exemple un alcool, un hexane ou de l'acétone). Après séchage du produit ainsi obtenu, on obtient un résidu enrichi en protéines. Selon une autre technique, on peut envisager de réaliser l'extraction d'une fraction protéique obtenue à partir de ce tourteau. L'étape d'extraction des protéines proprement dite est réalisée en milieu aqueux, neutre ou basique. Préférentiellement selon l'invention l'extraction des protéines sera réalisée en milieu aqueux, légèrement basique, et à chaud. Les protéines seront récupérées par précipitation ou par concentration. L'étape d'hydrolyse des protéines est réalisée par des protéases d'origine végétale telle que, par exemple, la papaïne ou bromélaïne ; ou bien par des enzymes dites industrielles telles que les alcalases, la flavourzyme... Le milieu de culture ainsi hydrolyse est centrifugé, filtré jusqu'à l'obtention d'un hydrolysat de protéines de linaceae. Cet hydrolysat est mis en solution dans un ou plusieurs solvants. On peut en particulier citer des solvants aqueux. Par solvant aqueux, on entend tout solvant constitué totalement ou partiellement d'eau. On peut citer l'eau elle-même, les solvants hydroalcooliques en toutes proportions ou encore les solvants constitués d'eau et d'un composé comme le propylene glycol ou le butylène glycol en toutes proportions. Les hydrolysats de protéines de plantes appartenant à la famille des linaceae sont analysés pour leur teneur en composés de nature protéique. On entend, par composés de nature protéique, les fragments de protéines, les peptides et les acides aminés libres présents dans le mélange. Les peptides, acides aminés et fragments de protéines sont dosés selon les techniques classiques, bien connues de l'homme du métier. Ainsi, selon un mode deréalisation avantageux de l'invention, l'extrait hydrolyse contient une quantité de composés de nature protéique représentant entre 30 et 90 % du poids total de la matière sèche, plus particulièrement cette quantité est comprise entre 50 et 80 % du poids total de la matière sèche.More particularly according to the invention one of the many plants of the linaceae family is used. Thus the genus Linum has nearly 200 species growing mainly in the temperate and subtropical regions of the northern hemisphere. They are herbaceous plants with fibrous stems, single leaves, flowers with 5 petals. Any method of extraction or purification known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the hydrolyzate according to the invention. For example, in a first step, flaxseed may be delipidated by simple pressing and / or by the action of a conventional organic solvent (for example an alcohol, hexane or acetone). After drying the product thus obtained, a residue enriched in proteins is obtained. According to another technique, it is possible to envisage carrying out the extraction of a protein fraction obtained from this cake. The actual protein extraction step is carried out in an aqueous medium, neutral or basic. Preferably, according to the invention, the extraction of the proteins will be carried out in aqueous medium, slightly basic, and hot. Proteins will be recovered by precipitation or concentration. The hydrolysis step of the proteins is carried out by proteases of plant origin such as, for example, papain or bromelain; or by so-called industrial enzymes such as alkalases, flavourzyme, etc. The culture medium thus hydrolyzed is centrifuged and filtered until a hydrolyzate of linaceae proteins is obtained. This hydrolyzate is dissolved in one or more solvents. In particular, aqueous solvents may be mentioned. By aqueous solvent is meant any solvent consisting wholly or partially of water. We can mention the water itself, hydroalcoholic solvents in all proportions or solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol or butylene glycol in all proportions. Plant protein hydrolysates belonging to the linaceae family are analyzed for their content of proteinaceous compounds. Protein compounds are understood to mean the protein fragments, the peptides and the free amino acids present in the mixture. The peptides, amino acids and protein fragments are determined according to conventional techniques, which are well known to those skilled in the art. Thus, according to a mode of Advantageous embodiment of the invention, the hydrolyzed extract contains a quantity of compounds of protein nature representing between 30 and 90% of the total weight of the dry matter, more particularly this amount is between 50 and 80% of the total weight of the material. dried.
L'invention a pour deuxième objet l'utilisation dans une composition cosmétique, ou pour la préparation d'une composition pharmaceutique, d'une quantité efficace d'extrait ; l'extrait ou la composition étant destinés à favoriser la pigmentation des poils et/ou des cheveux.The invention has the second object the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of an effective amount of extract; the extract or the composition being intended to promote the pigmentation of the hairs and / or the hair.
L'invention se rapporte encore à l'utilisation dans une composition cosmétique, ou pour la préparation d'une composition pharmaceutique, d'une quantité efficace d'extrait de lin ; l'extrait ou la composition étant destinés à préparer la peau à une exposition au soleil.The invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of an effective amount of flax extract; the extract or the composition being intended to prepare the skin for exposure to the sun.
L'invention se rapporte encore à l'utilisation dans une composition cosmétique, ou pour la préparation d'une composition pharmaceutique, d'une quantité efficace d'extrait ; l'extrait ou la composition étant destinés, par l'augmentation de la synthèse de mélanine, à protéger la peau des rayonnements du soleil. Selon une autre forme de l'invention, l'utilisation de l'extrait de lin ou la composition le contenant est destinée à protéger la peau des stress environnementauxThe invention also relates to the use in a cosmetic composition, or for the preparation of a pharmaceutical composition, of an effective amount of extract; the extract or the composition being intended, by increasing melanin synthesis, to protect the skin from sunlight. According to another form of the invention, the use of the flax extract or the composition containing it is intended to protect the skin from environmental stress.
Selon un mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, l'extrait de lin est préalablement solubilisé dans un ou plusieurs solvants cosmétiquement ou pharmaceutiquement acceptables comme l'eau, le glycérol, le propylene glycol, le butylène glycol, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés, l'éthanol, le propanol ou l'isopropanol.According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the flax extract is first solubilized in one or more cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable solvents such as water, glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, ethanol, propanol or isopropanol.
Selon encore un autre mode de réalisation avantageux de l'invention, l'extrait de lin est préalablement solubilisé dans un vecteur cosmétique ou pharmaceutique comme les liposomes ou adsorbé sur des polymères organiques poudreux, des supports minéraux comme les talcs et bentonites, et plus généralement solubilisé dans, ou fixé sur, tout vecteur cosmétiquement ou pharmaceutiquement acceptable.According to yet another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the flax extract is first solubilized in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical vector such as liposomes or adsorbed on organic powdery polymers, mineral supports such as talcs and bentonites, and more generally solubilized in, or attached to, any cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable carrier.
Pour donner un ordre de grandeur, dans les compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques de la présente invention, l'extrait de lin est utilisé en une quantité représentant de 0,0001 %à 20 % du poids total de la composition, et préférentiellement en une quantité représentant de 0,05 % à 5 % du poids total de la composition.To give an order of magnitude, in the cosmetic or dermatological compositions of the present invention, the flax extract is used in an amount representing 0.0001% at 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably in an amount representing from 0.05% to 5% of the total weight of the composition.
Outre l'intérêt majeur de la pigmentation de la peau dans la protection solaire, un composé pro-pigmentant selon l'invention offre des débouchés dans les produits auto-bronzants et favorisant le bronzage. Pour cela, l'invention se rapporte à l'utilisation d'extrait de lin pour la fabrication de produits pour le bronzage et/ou le brunissage artificiels de la peau.In addition to the major advantage of the pigmentation of the skin in the sun protection, a pro-pigmenting compound according to the invention offers outlets in self-tanning products and promoting tanning. For this, the invention relates to the use of flax extract for the manufacture of products for artificial tanning and / or browning of the skin.
L'invention se rapporte aussi à l'utilisation d'extrait de lin pour améliorer l'intensité et/ou l'homogénéité et/ou la persistance de la coloration produite sur la peau et/ou les cheveux.The invention also relates to the use of flax extract to improve the intensity and / or homogeneity and / or the persistence of the coloration produced on the skin and / or the hair.
L'invention se rapporte aussi à l'utilisation d'extrait de lin pour atténuer les désordres pigmentaires associés à une hypopigmentation de la peau, notamment le vitiligo.The invention also relates to the use of flax extract for reducing pigment disorders associated with hypopigmentation of the skin, especially vitiligo.
Préférentiellement, les compositions selon la présente invention se présenteront sous une forme adaptée à l'administration par voie topique cutanée, et couvrent toutes les formes cosmétiques ou dermatologiques. Ces compositions doivent donc contenir un milieu cosmétiquement et/ou dermatologiquement acceptable, c'est-à-dire compatible avec la peau, les poils ou les cheveux. Ces compositions pouπont notamment être sous forme de crèmes, émulsions H/E, E/H ou émulsions multiples, solutions, suspensions, gels, laits, lotions, sticks ou encore poudres, adaptés à une application sur la peau, les lèvres et/ou les cheveux.Preferably, the compositions according to the present invention will be in a form suitable for topical administration to the skin, and cover all cosmetic or dermatological forms. These compositions must therefore contain a cosmetically and / or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin, hair or hair. These compositions may especially be in the form of creams, O / W emulsions, W / O emulsions or multiple emulsions, solutions, suspensions, gels, milks, lotions, sticks or even powders, suitable for application to the skin, the lips and / or the hair.
Ces compositions comprennent les excipients nécessaires à leur formulation, tels que solvants, épaississants, diluants, tensioactifs, anti-oxydants, colorants, conservateurs, parfums.These compositions comprise the excipients necessary for their formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, diluents, surfactants, antioxidants, dyes, preservatives, perfumes.
Bien entendu, l'homme de métier veillera à choisir les éventuels composés complémentaires, actifs ou non-actifs, et/ou leur quantité, de telle sorte que les propriétés avantageuses du mélange ne soient pas, ou sensiblement pas, altérées par l'adjonction envisagée. La composition utilisable selon l'invention peut en particulier consister en une composition pour soins capillaires, et notamment un shampooing, un après-shampooing, une lotion de mise en plis, une lotion traitante, une crème ou un gel coiffant, une lotion restructurante pour les cheveux, un masque, etc. La composition cosmétique selon l'invention peut êtreutilisée notamment dans les traitements mettant en oeuvre une application qui est suivie ou non suivie d'un rinçage, ou encore sous forme de shampooing.Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional compounds, active or non-active, and / or their quantity, so that the advantageous properties of the mixture are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered. The composition that may be used according to the invention may in particular consist of a composition for hair care, and in particular a shampoo, a conditioner, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a restructuring lotion for hair, a mask, etc. The cosmetic composition according to the invention can be used in particular in treatments using an application that is followed or not followed by rinsing, or in the form of shampoo.
Elle peut également se présenter sous forme de teinture ou de mascara à appliquer au pinceau ou au peigne, en particulier sur les cils, les sourcils ou les cheveux.It can also be in the form of dye or mascara to be applied with a brush or a comb, in particular on eyelashes, eyebrows or hair.
Avantageusement, les compositions utilisables selon l'invention contiennent en outre au moins un autre agent favorisant la pigmentation de la peau, des cheveux et/ou des poils.Advantageously, the compositions that can be used according to the invention also contain at least one other agent that promotes the pigmentation of the skin, hair and / or hair.
De tels composés sont notamment des substrats de la tyrosinase, tels que la tyrosine ou laSuch compounds are in particular substrates for tyrosinase, such as tyrosine or
L-DOP A, des prostaglandines, ou des composés activateurs de la voie de l'AMPc tels que des dérivés de pro-opiomélanocortines, l'adénosine, ou la forkoline ou ses dérivés. On peut également citer des extraits de végétaux tels que le bigaradier {citrus aurantium) ou de chrysanthème {Chrysanthemum morifolium), décrits notamment dans les brevets FRL-DOP A, prostaglandins, or activating compounds of the cAMP pathway such as pro-opiomelanocortin derivatives, adenosine, or forkoline or its derivatives. Plant extracts such as citrus aurantium (bitter orange) or chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum morifolium), described in French patents, may also be mentioned.
2845285 et EP1014934.2845285 and EP1014934.
De tels composés se trouvent également dans la famille des cotorants exogènes des couches superficielles de l'épiderme, tels que la dihydroxyacétone (DHA), l'érythrulose, les extraits de feuilles de henné, décrits notamment dans les brevets EP 0742002,Such compounds are also found in the exogenous cotorant family of the superficial layers of the epidermis, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, extracts of henna leaves, described in particular in patents EP 0742002,
FR2779958.FR2779958.
L'invention concerne un procédé cosmétique pour augmenter la synthèse de mélanine dans les mélanocytes et favoriser la pigmentation naturelle de la peau et des cheveux, consistant à appliquer, sur la peau ou les cheveux, la composition telle que définie précédemment.The invention relates to a cosmetic process for increasing the synthesis of melanin in melanocytes and promoting the natural pigmentation of the skin and the hair, which consists in applying the composition as defined above to the skin or the hair.
L'invention concerne un procédé de traitement cosmétique destiné à prévenir ou à traiter le blanchiment des cheveux et des poils, consistant à appliquer, sur la peau, la composition telle que définie précédemment.The invention relates to a cosmetic treatment method for preventing or treating hair and hair whitening, comprising applying to the skin the composition as defined above.
D'autres avantages et caractéristiques de l'invention apparaîtront mieux à la lecture des exemples donnés à titre illustratif et non limitatif.Other advantages and characteristics of the invention will appear better on reading the examples given by way of illustration and not limitation.
Exemple 1 : Préparation d'un extrait de lin {Linum usitatissimum L.)Example 1 Preparation of a Linseed Extract (Linum usitatissimum L.)
Dans une première étape, 1 kg de graines de lin sont délipidées par l'action d'un solvant organique : l'hexane. Après séchage du produit, on obtient un résidu enrichi en protéines(le tourteau). Le résidu est alors dilué dans une solution aqueuse légèrement basique puis hydrolyse par ajout d'une enzyme : la papaïne, à 60°C pendant 4 heures sous agitation. Ce mélange est ensuite chauffé à 80 °C, centrifugé et filtré jusqu'à l'obtention d'une solution limpide. Il est ensuite concentré sous vide, puis filtré de nouveau sur des filtres-plaques puis sur cartouche stérilisante.In a first step, 1 kg of linseed is delipidated by the action of an organic solvent: hexane. After drying the product, a protein enriched residue is obtained (the cake). The residue is then diluted in a slightly basic aqueous solution and then hydrolyzed by adding an enzyme: papain, at 60 ° C. for 4 hours with stirring. This mixture is then heated to 80 ° C, centrifuged and filtered until a clear solution is obtained. It is then concentrated under vacuum, then filtered again on filter plates and sterilizing cartridge.
On obtient alors une hydrolysat titrant à 30 g/1 de composés de nature protéique. L'extrait hydrolyse contient une quantité de composés de nature protéique représentant environ 65 % du poids total de la matière sèche. Cet hydrolysat est remis en solution dans du dipropylene glycol.A hydrolyzate titrating at 30 g / l of compounds of protein nature is then obtained. The hydrolyzed extract contains a quantity of protein compounds representing approximately 65% of the total weight of the dry matter. This hydrolyzate is redissolved in dipropylene glycol.
Exemple 2 : Etude ex vivo de l'effet de l'extrait de lin sur la synthèse de mélanineExample 2 Ex Vivo Study of the Effect of Linseed Extract on Melanin Synthesis
Le but de cette étude ex vivo est de mettre en évidence l'augmentation de la mélanisation apportée par l'extrait selon l'exemple 1.The purpose of this ex vivo study is to demonstrate the increase in melanization provided by the extract according to Example 1.
Protocole : Des biopsies de peau humaine de 6 mm de diamètre sont maintenues en culture ex vivo en présence d'un milieu spécifique (DMEM lg/L, HAMF12, SVF et antibiotiques) sur des inserts déposés dans des plaques 6 puits. Les biopsies sont cultivées pendant 48 heures et reçoivent ou non 2 applications par jour d'extrait selon l'exemple 1 à une concentration de 1 %. Les biopsies sont ensuite fixées dans le formol 9 %, NaCl (150 mM) pendant 10 heures puis incluses dans la paraffine. Des coupes de peau de 3 μm d'épaisseur sont ensuite réalisées et la mélanine est colorée spécifiquement par la technique de Fontana-Masson. Résultats : Les coupes de peau n'ayant pas reçu l'application d'extrait selon l'exemple 1 présentent une coloration de faible intensité. Au contraire, les coupes de peau ayant reçu les applications d'extrait selon l'exemple 1 présentent une coloration d'intensité nettement augmentée. De plus, la mélanine est située dans la couche basale, mais aussi transportée dans les couches supra-basales. Conclusions : 48 heures de traitement ont permis d'induire une forte augmentation de la synthèse de mélanine par les mélanocytes et de stimuler l'ensemble du processus de répartition de la mélanine dans l'épiderme.Exemple 3 : Préparation de compositionsProtocol: Human skin biopsies 6 mm in diameter are maintained in culture ex vivo in the presence of a specific medium (DMEM lg / L, HAMF12, SVF and antibiotics) on inserts deposited in 6-well plates. The biopsies are cultured for 48 hours and receive or not 2 applications per day of extract according to Example 1 at a concentration of 1%. The biopsies are then fixed in 9% formalin, NaCl (150 mM) for 10 hours and then included in the paraffin. Skin sections 3 μm thick are then made and the melanin is stained specifically by the Fontana-Masson technique. Results: Skin sections that did not receive the application of extract according to Example 1 have a low intensity coloration. On the contrary, the skin sections having received the extract applications according to Example 1 exhibit a markedly increased color intensity. In addition, melanin is located in the basal layer, but also transported in the supra-basal layers. Conclusions: 48 hours of treatment led to a strong increase of melanin synthesis by melanocytes and to stimulate the whole process of distribution of melanin in the epidermis. Example 3 Preparation of compositions
Ces compositions ont été obtenues par simple mélange des différents composants. Les quantités indiquées sont données en pourcentage de poids.These compositions were obtained by simple mixing of the various components. The quantities indicated are given as a percentage of weight.
1 -Emulsion huile-dans-eau1 - Oil-in-water emulsion
Phase huileuse : a Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) 5.00 % a Huile de Jojoba 5.00 % B Huile de Vaseline 5.00 %Oil phase: a Montanov 68 (Cetearyl Alcohol and Cetearyl Glucoside) 5.00% a Jojoba Oil 5.00% B Vaseline Oil 5.00%
B Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00 %B Isopropyl Palmitate 7.00%
Phase aqueuse : a Glycérine 5.00 % a Allantoine 0.10 % fl Extrait selon l'exemple 1 1.00 % fl Sepigel 305 (Polyacrylamide and Cl 3- 14 Isoparaffin and Laureth-7) 0.30 % fl Conservateur 0.50 % fl Parfum
2- Gel fl Carbopol Ultrez 10 (sol. à 2% ) 25.00 % fl Triéthanolamine 0.50 % fl Extrait selon l'exemple 1 5.00 % fl Conservateur 0.20 % fl EDTA (séquestrant) 0.10 % fl Parfum 0.50 % fl Eau qsp
3- Lotion fl Mono Propylene Glycol 1.00 % fl Allantoïne 0.30 % fl Glycérine 1.00 %fl Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 1.00 % fl Extrait selon l'exemple 1 0.5 % a Conservateur 0.20 % a Parfum 0.50 % a Eau qsp 100 %3- Lotion fl Mono Propylene Glycol 1.00% fl Allantoin 0.30% fl Glycerin 1.00% Cetiol HE (PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate) 1.00% Fl Extract according to Example 1 0.5% a Preservative 0.20% a Perfume 0.50% a Water qs 100%
4-Emulsion autobronzante huile dans eau4-self-tanning oil-in-water emulsion
Phase huileuse :Oily phase:
B Mélange mono/distéarate de glycérol 2.00 % a Alcool stearylique 1.00 % a Acide stéarique d'huile de palme 1.50 % a Poly diméthylsiloxane 2.00 %B Mono / Glycerol Distearate Mix 2.00% a Stearyl Alcohol 1.00% a Palm Oil Stearic Acid 1.50% a Poly dimethylsiloxane 2.00%
B Mélange poly diméthylsiloxane alpha-omega 3.00 % dihydroxyle/cyclopentadiméthylsiloxane (14,7/85,3) a Lauroyl sarconisate d'isopropyle 15.00 %B Poly dimethylsiloxane mixture alpha-omega 3.00% dihydroxyl / cyclopentadimethylsiloxane (14.7 / 85.3) to Lauroyl isopropyl sarconisate 15.00%
Phase aqueuse :Aqueous phase :
B Dihydroxyacétone 5.00 % a Glycérine 5.00 % a Phosphate d'alcool hexadecylique, sel de potassium 1.00 % a Acide polyacrylique 0.30 % a Triéthanolamine qsp pH : 7 a Acétate de dl-alpha-tocopheryle 0.50 % a Extrait selon l'exemple 1 1.00 % a Eau déminéralisée
5-Emulsion autobronzante eau dans huile5-self-tanning water-in-oil emulsion
Phase huileuse :Oily phase:
B Polydiméthyl/methylcetyl methylsiloxane oxyéthyléné 2.00 % a Phényl triméthylsiloxy trisiloxane 3.00 % a Lauroyl sarcosinate d'isopropyle 10.00 % a Isohexadecane 5.00 % a Cyclopenta diméthylsiloxane 3.00 %B Polydimethyl / methylcetyl methylsiloxane oxyethylenated 2.00% phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane 3.00% Lauroyl isopropyl sarcosinate 10.00% Isohexadecane 5.00% Cyclopenta dimethylsiloxane 3.00%
Phase aqueuse : a Dihydroxyacétone 2.00 %Water phase: a Dihydroxyacetone 2.00%
2.00 %2.00%
1.00 %1.00%
1.50 %1.50%
2.00 %2.00%
3.00 %3.00%
15.00 %15.00%
5.00 %5.00%
5.00 %5.00%
1.00 %1.00%
0.30 % qsp pH : 70.30% qsp pH: 7
0.50 %0.50%
1.00 %
GlycérineGlycerin
Sulfate de magnésium Extrait selon l'exemple 1 Eau déminéraliséeMagnesium sulphate Extract according to Example 1 Demineralized water
5.00 %5.00%
0.70 %0.70%
1.00 % qsp 100.00 %1.00% qsp 100.00%
5.00 %5.00%
0.40 %0.40%
13.00 %13.00%
7.00 %7.00%
5.00 %5.00%
0.25 %0.25%
1.00 %
66.80 %66.80%
5.00 %5.00%
0.30 %0.30%
0.30 %0.30%
2.00 %2.00%
2.00 %2.00%
2.00 %2.00%
2.00 %2.00%
1.00 %1.00%
1.00 %1.00%
1.00 %1.00%
1.00 %1.00%
0.25 %0.25%
0.1 %0.1%
0.1 %0.1%
10.975 %
6- Lotion autobronzante a Dihydroxyacétone a Extrait lyophilisé d' Eclipta prostata6- Self-Tanning Lotion Dihydroxyacetone Freeze-dried extract of Eclipta prostata
B Ethanol à 96% B Ethoxydiglycol fl PPG-l-PEG-9-Lauryl Glycol Ether fl Parabens fl Extrait selon l'exemple 1 fl Eau déminéraliséeB Ethanol 96% B Ethoxydiglycol PPG-1-PEG-9-Lauryl Glycol Ether Fl Parabens Fl Extract according to Example 1 Demineralized water
7- Emulsion huile dans eau autobronzante fl Eau a Ethoxydiglycol a Xanthan gum a Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose a Cetyl alcohol a Stearyl alcohol7- Self-tanning oil in water emulsion Xanthan gum a cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose a cetyl alcohol a stearyl alcohol
B Octyl palmitate a Glucam P-20 distéarate a Steareth-20B Octyl palmitate a Glucam P-20 distearate a Steareth-20
B DiméthiconeB Dimethicone
B Polysorbate 60 a Diméthicone Copolyol/IPDI CopolymerB Polysorbate 60a Dimethicone Copolyol / IPDI Copolymer
B Glycerylstearate and PEG- 100 stéarate a Actiplex 335 Lipo OPB Glycerylstearate and PEG-100 Stearate Actiplex 335 Lipo OP
B Tocopheryl acétate a Eau a Dihydroxyacétonea Nipaguard MPA 0.60 % a Panthénol, 50% aqueux 0.40 % a Sorbic acid 0.05 % a Sodium metabisulfite 0.025 % a Extrait selon l'exemple 1 1.00 %B Tocopheryl acetate a Dihydroxyacetone water a Nipaguard MPA 0.60% to Panthenol, 50% aqueous 0.40% to Sorbic acid 0.05% to Sodium metabisulfite 0.025% a Extract according to Example 1 1.00%
Claims (6)
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR0607106A FR2904547B1 (en) | 2006-08-03 | 2006-08-03 | USE OF FLAX EXTRACT AS ACTIVE AGENT FOR INCREASING THE SYNTHESIS OF MELANIN IN MELANOCYTES |
| PCT/FR2007/001334 WO2008015342A2 (en) | 2006-08-03 | 2007-08-02 | Use of a plant extract as active agent for increasing melanin synthesis in melanocytes |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR0607106A FR2904547B1 (en) | 2006-08-03 | 2006-08-03 | USE OF FLAX EXTRACT AS ACTIVE AGENT FOR INCREASING THE SYNTHESIS OF MELANIN IN MELANOCYTES |
Publications (2)
| Publication Number | Publication Date |
|---|---|
| FR2904547A1 true FR2904547A1 (en) | 2008-02-08 |
| FR2904547B1 FR2904547B1 (en) | 2012-11-16 |
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|---|---|---|---|
| FR0607106A Active FR2904547B1 (en) | 2006-08-03 | 2006-08-03 | USE OF FLAX EXTRACT AS ACTIVE AGENT FOR INCREASING THE SYNTHESIS OF MELANIN IN MELANOCYTES |
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| FR (1) | FR2904547B1 (en) |
Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2001261570A (en) * | 2000-03-22 | 2001-09-26 | Nisshin Oil Mills Ltd:The | Skin care preparation |
| JP2004002264A (en) * | 2002-04-18 | 2004-01-08 | Tokai Univ | Melanine production-promoting agent and composition of external preparation used for skin containing the same |
| WO2004010965A1 (en) * | 2002-07-25 | 2004-02-05 | L'oreal | Use of lignans for prevening or treating the sings of ageing of the skin |
| JP2005289838A (en) * | 2004-03-31 | 2005-10-20 | Tokai Univ | Melanogenesis promotion by lignan |
| DE102004039983A1 (en) * | 2004-08-12 | 2006-03-02 | Keller, Ben | Pharmaceutical and/or cosmetic composition, useful to treat hair loss (e.g. hormone-induced hair loss) and skin diseases (e.g. acne), comprises fenugreek seeds and additionally flax seeds |
-
2006
- 2006-08-03 FR FR0607106A patent/FR2904547B1/en active Active
Patent Citations (5)
| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JP2001261570A (en) * | 2000-03-22 | 2001-09-26 | Nisshin Oil Mills Ltd:The | Skin care preparation |
| JP2004002264A (en) * | 2002-04-18 | 2004-01-08 | Tokai Univ | Melanine production-promoting agent and composition of external preparation used for skin containing the same |
| WO2004010965A1 (en) * | 2002-07-25 | 2004-02-05 | L'oreal | Use of lignans for prevening or treating the sings of ageing of the skin |
| JP2005289838A (en) * | 2004-03-31 | 2005-10-20 | Tokai Univ | Melanogenesis promotion by lignan |
| DE102004039983A1 (en) * | 2004-08-12 | 2006-03-02 | Keller, Ben | Pharmaceutical and/or cosmetic composition, useful to treat hair loss (e.g. hormone-induced hair loss) and skin diseases (e.g. acne), comprises fenugreek seeds and additionally flax seeds |
Non-Patent Citations (4)
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