FR2895256A1 - Composition, useful to e.g. improve stimulate collagen synthesis, comprises non-fructifying non-photosynthetic bacterium filamentous extract and N-acylaminoamide compound at a fixed weight ratio - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises a non-fructifying non-photosynthetic bacterium filamentous extract (I) and an N-acylaminoamide compound (II) at a weight ratio greater than 1:25, in a medium.

Description

The present invention relates to a particular composition

  comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and at least one compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides, in a weight ratio greater than 1/25.

  It also relates to the cosmetic use of at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial non-fruiting extract and at least one compound of the N-acylamino-amide family in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as a combination intended for improve the protection and / or stimulation of elastin synthesis.

  It also relates to a cosmetic process for treating the loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition comprising at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and a compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides.

  The invention also relates to the use in a composition of at least one nonsynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract as an agent for sensitizing skin cells to the action of an agent increasing the synthesis of elastin and / or or preventing its degradation.

  In particular, the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria extract is an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and the compound of the N-acylaminoamide family is {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-acid. methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid.

  The human skin consists of two compartments namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, and a deep compartment, the dermis. The dermis provides the epidermis with a solid support. It is also its nurturing element. It is precisely divided into a superficial region in contact with the epidermis, which is the papillary dermis, and in a deeper region, the reticular dermis, which extends to the subcutaneous fatty layer which constitutes the hypodermis. The reticular dermis constitutes the major part of the dermis.

  The dermis consists mainly of fibroblasts and an extracellular matrix composed mainly of collagen, elastin and a substance called the fundamental substance, components synthesized by the fibroblast.

  Among these macromolecules, elastin is a dermal protein whose polypeptide backbone, deployed in the form of random folds, has many inter-chain bonds. It is this reticulated structure, folded at random, which gives it its elasticity.

  Elastin is in fact constitutive of three types of elastic fibers that are interposed between the collagen fibers, but are all the finer they are close to the epidermis. In the reticular dermis where they are relatively larger (2 to 4 pm in diameter), these elastic fibers have a parallel disposition to the dermoepidermal junction. They are made of 90% elastin. We usually talk about mature elastic fibers. In contrast, the fibers located in the papillary dermis are very thin (0.7 μm in diameter), and perpendicular to the dermal-epidermal junction: they are oxytalan fibers. Between the two, at the junction between papillary and reticular dermis, we find intermediate size fibers: elaunin fibers (1.5 to 2.5 μm in diameter) which are parallel to the dermal-epidermal junction.

  During chronological aging, alterations of the elastic tissue are observed by proteases of fibroblastic origin, elastases. With age, the balance between the synthesis of elastic fibers and their enzymatic degradation is disrupted. The dermal tissue is thus altered, so that the skin loses its firmness and elasticity; it relaxes and wrinkles appear.

  It is also known that hormonal changes can lead to the formation of stretch marks which are the consequence of a loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

  The means proposed up to now for preventing or combating alterations of elastic fibers have consisted in providing cosmetic compositions containing active agents which either prevent the degradation of the elastic fibers or promote the synthesis of new elastic fibers.

  As active agents preventing the degradation of elastic fibers, mention may be made in particular of the peptide extract of leguminous seeds (Pisum sativum) sold by the company LSN under the trade name Parelastyl; certain compounds of the family of N-acylaminoamides (WO 01/94381); certain lipopeptides (US-4,665,053); proline or hydroxyproline derivatives (EP-0 308 278); heparinoids 20 (William HORNEBECK, Cosmetology, No. 5, pp. 56-59, April 1995); peptides derived from trifluoromethylketones (US-5,565,429); and extracts from Meadowsweet (EP-0 283 349).

  As active ingredients promoting the synthesis of elastic fibers, mention may be made of certain yeast or algae extracts, as well as certain hydrolysates of vegetable proteins.

  However, there is still a need for cosmetic compositions that make it possible to protect and / or stimulate elastin synthesis more effectively than the solutions proposed in the prior art.

  However, the Applicant has unexpectedly discovered that the combination of compounds of the family of N-acylaminoamides with an extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium non-fruiting allowed to meet this need. In particular, the Applicant has shown that an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis had the capacity to potentiate and / or increase the action of {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl acid. -butyrylamino} acetic acid on skin cells, namely an effect on the protection and / or stimulation of elastin synthesis.

  This combination also makes it possible to reduce the necessary amount of N-acylamino-amide compound to obtain the desired effect on the skin, namely in particular an effect on the protection and / or stimulation of elastin synthesis.

  Application WO 01/94381 discloses the use of the N-acylaminoamide compounds for their anti-elastase property, but to our knowledge, it has never been suggested to associate them with extracts of filamentous bacteria. non-photosynthetic non-fruiting, also known for their immunomodulatory properties (WO-94/02158), to combat the loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

  The present invention therefore relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria non-fruiting and at least one compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides, in a weight ratio greater than 1/25.

  The composition may be a cosmetic composition or a dermatological composition. Preferably, it will be a cosmetic composition, in particular a care and / or makeup composition.

  In particular, the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria extract and the compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides are present in the composition in a weight ratio greater than or equal to 1/10, preferably greater than or equal to 1.

  Preferably, the nonsynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and the compound of the N-acylaminoamide family are present in the composition in a weight ratio ranging from 1 to 30, in particular from 5 to 20.

  The invention also relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and at least one compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides, in which the bacterial extract is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight of dry extract of bacteria and said composition not being one of the following compositions: Composition A {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino} ] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} ethyl acetate 2.5% Photolyase (DNA protector) 0.1% Vitreoscilla filiformis extract 0.1% Preservatives 1.35% Sodium citrate 0.035% PEG-40 1.25% Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate 4% Glycerin 7% Sorbitan tristearate 0.3% Prunus armeniaca Kermel oil 2% Cetyl alcohol 0.7% Propylene glycol 2% Triethanolamine 0.4% Cyclohexasiloxane 2% Carbomer 0.75% Tocopherol 1% Silica 2% Ascorbyl glucoside 0 , 1% Polycaprolactone ùbeta carotene 5% Water q sp 100% Composition B 3,5% {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} ethyl acetate Extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis 0.1% Cetylstearyl alcohol mixture and 7.0% cetylstearyl alcohol oxyethylene (33OE) 80/20 Mixture of glycerol mono and distearate 2.0% Cetyl alcohol 1.5% Poly dimethylsiloxane 1.5% Vaseline oil 15.0% Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3, 0% Octocrylene 7.0% Glycerin 20.0% Demineralized water qs 100% Extracts of non-photosynthetic non-fruiting filamentous bacterium The extracts of bacteria that can be used according to the invention are prepared from non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria as defined according to the classification. Bergey's Manual of Systematic Bacteriology (vol. 3, sections 22 and 23, 9 edition, 1989), among which mention may be made of bacteria belonging to the order Beggiatoales, and more particularly bacteria belonging to the genera Beggiatoa, Vitreoscilla, Flexithrix or Leucothrix.

  The bacteria which have just been defined and of which several have already been described generally have an aquatic habitat and can be found especially in marine waters or in thermal waters. Among the usable bacteria, there may be mentioned, for example: Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551) Vitreoscilla beggiatoides (ATCC 43181) Beggiatoa alba (ATCC 33555) Flexithrix dorotheae (ATCC 23163) Leucothrix mucor (ATCC 25107) Sphaerotilus natans (ATCC 13338)

  Preferably, an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551) will be used.

  By "bacterial extract" according to the invention is meant an extract of the bacterial biomass or any active fraction of said extract, in particular: (i) bacteria cells isolated from the culture medium, which have been concentrated, for example by centrifugation ('unstabilized cell extract'); or (ii) concentrated bacterial cells (i), then subjected to an operation for breaking the envelopes of the bacteria cells, by any means known to those skilled in the art, such as the action of ultrasound or, preferably, autoclaving ('stabilized cell extract'). By 'envelopes' is meant bacterial wall and possibly the underlying membranes; (iii) the supernatant obtained by filtration of the stabilized cell extract (ii), or any active fraction of said extract.

  This active fraction can be obtained by conventional fractionation methods, such as extraction in the presence of a solvent, selective precipitation or tangential ultrafiltration (UFT) for example. A preferred example of an active fraction is an LPS lipopolysaccharide isolate as prepared according to Example 1b below.

  These extracts or fractions may be preserved for example by freezing said extracts or fractions and used after thawing. The remainder of the 'cell extract' description of bacteria ((i) and (ii)), 'supernatant' of said extract (iii) or 'active fraction' enriched in lipopolysaccharides will be more simply discussed.

  The nonsynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract which can be used according to the invention is preferably chosen from a cell extract, the supernatant of said cell extract or an active fraction of said lipopolysaccharide enriched cell extract (LPS).

  Preferably, the nonsynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract is an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis, still more preferably a cell extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis or an active fraction of said cell extract enriched with lipopolysaccharides (LPS).

  To prepare the bacterial extract according to the invention, said bacteria can be cultured according to methods known to those skilled in the art, or see in particular the description of the patent application WO-A-94-02158. A cell extract is obtained from which the supernatant can be separated for example by filtration and centrifugation. The extract can be used in aqueous form or in freeze-dried form. The protocol is described in more detail in Example 1 below. This bacterial extract can be refracted and used pure or diluted at different concentrations.

  In the compositions according to the invention, use will generally be from 0.001 to 10%, and in particular from 0.005 to 2%, by weight of dry extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria non-fruiting in relation to the total weight of the composition.

  Preferably, an amount ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight of dry extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium non-fruiting in relation to the total weight of the composition will be used.

  In particular forms of application of the balneotherapy type, it is also possible to envisage applications of native or reconstituted bacterial lysates in proportions higher than up to 100%.

  These compositions may contain the extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis in dispersion form in a suitable vehicle such as, for example, water, organic solvents, fatty substances including oils, and mixtures thereof, in particular emulsions.

  Compounds of the family of N-acylamino amides The compounds that can be used in the composition according to the invention are described in application WO 01/94381. They correspond to the following formula (I): 735 (1) in which: - the radical Y represents O or S,

  the radical R 1 represents: (i) a hydrogen atom; (Ii) a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing 1 to 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from -OH; -GOLD; -O-COR; SH; -SR; -S-COR; NH2; NHR; -NRR '; -NH-COR; -Hal (halogen); - CN; -0OOR; -HORN; -P (0) - (OR) 2; -SO 2 OR; With R and R 'representing, independently of one another, a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated, said radicals R and R; may together with N form a 5- or 6-membered carbon ring which may further comprise at least one heteroatom selected from O, N and / or S in the ring, and / or may be substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different; different, selected from -OH; -OR "; -O-COR"; SH; -SR "-S-COR"; NH2; -NHR "-NH-COR"; -Hal (halogen); CN; -COOR "; -COR"; with R "representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated or even perhalogenated; - (iii) a radical chosen from the radicals -OR 1 -NH 2; With R and R 'representing, independently of one another, a saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon-based radical having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated or even perhalogenated, said radicals R and R 'being able to form together with N a 5- or 6-membered carbon ring which may furthermore comprise at least one heteroatom selected from O, N and / or S in the ring, and / or may be substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, selected from -OH; -OR "; -O-COR "; -SH; -SR"; -S-COR "-NH2; -NHR"; -NH-COR "-Hal (halogen); -CN; -COOR"; -COR "with R" representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated;

  the radical R2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, chosen from - OH; -GOLD; -O-COR; SH; -SR; -S-COR; NH2; NHR; -NRR '; -NH-COR; -Hal (halogen); - CN; COOR; -HORN; with R and R 'representing, independently of one another, a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated, said radicals R and R' capable of forming together with N a 5- or 6-membered carbon ring which may furthermore comprise at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and / or S in the ring, and / or which may be substituted with 1 to 5 groups, which may be identical or different, selected from -OH; -OR "; -O-COR"; SH; -SR "-S-COR"; NH2; -NHR "-NH-COR"; -Hal (halogen); CN; -COOR "; -COR"; with R "representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated or even perhalogenated; - radical R3 represents a radical chosen from those of formula (II) or (III ): (II) -A-C6H (5-v) -Bv (III) -C6H (5-v ') - B'

  wherein: y is an integer from 0 to 5 inclusive, and y 'is an integer from 1 to 5 inclusive; - A is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, selected from - OH; -GOLD; -O-COR; SH; -SR; -S-COR; NH2; NHR; -NRR '; -NH-COR; -Hal (halogen, even perhalogenous); CN; COOR; -HORN; -NO 2; -SO 2 OR; with R and R 'representing, independently of one another, a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated, said radicals R and R' capable of forming together with N a 5- or 6-membered carbon ring which may furthermore comprise at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and / or S in the ring, and / or which may be substituted with 1 to 5 groups, which may be identical or different, selected from -OH; -OR "; -O-COR"; SH; -SR "-S-COR"; NH2; -NHR "-NH-COR"; -Hal (halogen); CN; -COOR "; -COR"; with R "representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated or even perhalogenated; B represents at least one group, identical or different, selected from -OH; OR; -O-COR; -SH; -SR; -S-COR; -NH2; -NHR; -NRR '; -NH-COR; -Halogen; -CN; -COOR; -COR; -NO2; -SO2; -OR, or represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, selected from - OH; -OR; -O-COR; -SH; -SR; -S-COR; -NH2; -NHR; -NRR '; -NH-COR; -Hal (halogen, or even perhalogen); -CN; -0OOR; -COR; -NO2; -SO2-; OR, with R and R 'representing, independently of one another, a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated, said radicals R and R 'can form together with N u a 5- or 6-membered carbon ring which may furthermore comprise at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and / or S in the ring, and / or which may be substituted with 1 to 5 groups, which may be identical or different, chosen from -OH; -OR "; -O-COR"; SH; -SR "-S-COR"; NH2; -NHR "-NH-COR"; -Hal (halogen); CN; -COOR "; -COR"; with R "representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated;

  the radical X represents a radical chosen from -OH, -OR4, -NH2, -NHR4, -NR4R5, -SR4, -COOR4; -COR 4; with R4 and R5 representing, independently of one another, a hydrocarbon radical, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, chosen among -OH; -GOLD; -O-COR; SH; -SR; -S-COR; NH2; NHR; -NRR '; -NH-COR; -Hal (halogen, even perhalogenous); CN; -0OOR; -HORN; with R and R 'representing, independently of one another, a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated; said radicals R and R 'being able to form together with N a 5- or 6-membered carbon ring which may furthermore comprise at least one heteroatom chosen from O, N and / or S in the ring, and / or which may be substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, chosen from -OH; -OR "; -O-COR"; SH; -SR "-S-COR"; NH2; -NHR "-NH-COR"; -Hal (halogen); CN; -COOR "; -COR"; with R "representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated or even perhalogenated, said radicals R4 and R5 being able to form together with N a 5- or 6-membered carbon ring which may further comprise at least one heteroatom selected from O, N and / or S in the ring, and / or may be substituted with 1 to 5 groups, identical or different, chosen from -OH; -OR "; -O-COR "; -SH; -SR"; -S-COR "-NH2; -NHR"; -NH-COR "-Hal (halogen); -CN; -COOR"; -COR "with R" representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated.

  Also included in this definition are the mineral or organic acid salts of said compounds, as well as their optical isomers, in isolated form or in a racemic mixture.

  The term "linear, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon-based radical" is intended especially to mean alkyl, aryl, aralkyl, alkylaryl, alkenyl or alkynyl radicals.

  The C6H5 group present in the radical R3 must be understood as an aromatic cyclic group. Preferably, the radical Y represents oxygen.

  Preferably, the radical R 1 represents hydrogen or a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 12, and in particular 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted. In particular, the substituents may be chosen from -OH, OR and / or -P (O) - (OR) 2 with R representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, possibly halogenated or even perhalogenous. Preferentially, the radical R 1 represents a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, optionally substituted by a group -OH or -P (O) - (OR) 2 with R representing methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl.

  Preferably, the radical R 2 represents a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 12, in particular 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 or 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted. In particular, the substituents may be chosen from -OH and -OR with R representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 620 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated. Preferentially, the radical R 2 represents a methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, tert-butyl or isobutyl radical.

  Preferably, the radical R3 represents a radical of formula -C6H (5_v ') - By for which y' = 1, 2 or 3; or a radical of formula -A-C6H (5_v) -By for which y = 0, 1 or 2. Preferably, A is a divalent hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, optionally substituted. The substituents of A are preferably selected from -Hal (halogen, or even perhalogen); CN; -0OOR; -NO 2; -SO 2 OR; with R representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated. Preferably, B represents at least one -OR group; NHR; CN; COOR; -COR or represents a hydrocarbon radical chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 12 carbon atoms, optionally substituted. The substituents of B are preferably chosen from -Hal (halogen, or even perhalogen); CN; -0OOR; -NO 2; -SO 2 OR; with R representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated.

  Preferentially, the radical R3 represents a group chosen from one of the following formulas: in which A and B have the meanings given above.

  In particular, the divalent radical A may be a methylene, an ethylene or a propylene. Preferably, the radical B represents at least one group -OR; NHR; CN; - COOR; -COR for which R denotes a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, or represents a hydrocarbon radical chosen from a methyl, ethyl, propyl or isopropyl radical, substituted by one or more halogens, in particular chlorine, bromine, iodine or fluorine, and preferentially totally halogenated (perhalogenated), such as perfluorinated. In particular, mention may be made of the perfluoromethyl radical (-CF 3) as particularly preferred.

  Preferably, the radical X represents a radical chosen from -OH or -OR4 with R4 representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, cyclic or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted. The substituents may be chosen from -OH and -OR with R representing a hydrocarbon radical, linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally halogenated, or even perhalogenated.

  Preferably, the radical X represents a radical chosen from OH, -OCH3, -OC2H5, -O-C3H7 OR -OC4H9.

  Among the particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of: {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid, also called N- [N-acetyl, N ' - (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine (ATPVG) in the remainder of the description; ethyl {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetate, [2- (acetyl-benzylamino) -3-methyl-butyrylamino acid] ] acetic acid - [2- (acetyl-benzyl-amino) -3-methyl-butyrylamino] ethyl acetate, - (2- {benzyl - [(diethoxy-phosphoryl) -acetyl] -amino} -3- methyl-butyrylamino) ethyl acetate.

  Preferably, {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methylbutyrylamino} -acetic acid, also known as N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl] will be used. valyl] glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine (ATPVG) in the remainder of the description.

  The amount of N-acylamino amide compound to be used in the compositions according to the invention can be easily determined by those skilled in the art, depending on the nature of the compound used, the person to be treated and / or the effect research. In general, this amount may be between 0.00001 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.001 and 10% by weight, and preferably between 0.05 and 5% by weight. more preferably between 0.1 and 2% by weight, and preferably between 0.5 and 1% by weight.

  The compounds of formula (I) can in particular be used, alone or as a mixture, in a composition which comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, especially in a cosmetic or pharmaceutical composition which therefore also comprises a cosmetically or pharmaceutically acceptable medium. A preferred composition according to the invention comprises a cell extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid also named N- [N-acetyl] , N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine or acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine (ATPVG) in the remainder of the description. 10

  Galenic The physiologically acceptable medium in which the compounds according to the invention may be employed, as well as its constituents, their quantity, the galenic form of the composition and its method of preparation, may be chosen by those skilled in the art on the basis of of his general knowledge according to the type of composition sought. Preferably, the cosmetic composition used according to the present invention is suitable for topical application. The composition according to the invention may be a care composition or a makeup composition. For topical application to the skin, the composition may be in the form of an aqueous or oily solution; dispersion of the lotion or serum type; emulsions of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W) or conversely (W / O); suspensions or emulsions of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or multiple emulsions (E / H / E or H / E / H), microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type.

  This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam or gel. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It may also be in solid or semi-solid form, and for example in the form of a stick, mask, patch or impregnated wipe. It can be used as a care product and / or as a make-up product of the skin. To enhance the anti-aging and / or firmness and / or elasticity effects of the composition according to the invention, it may contain, in addition to the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract non-fruiting and the N-acylamino-amide compounds described above, at least one compound chosen from: desquamating and / or moisturizing agents; depigmenting or propigmenting agents; anti-glycation agents; agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation; agents stimulating the proliferation of fibroblasts and / or keratinocytes or stimulating the differentiation of keratinocytes; muscle relaxants; anti-pollution and / or anti-radical and / or antioxidant agents; slimming agents; agents acting on microcirculation; agents acting on the energetic metabolism of cells; tensors; procuring agents; and their mixtures.

  Thus, the composition according to the invention may in particular contain at least one active agent chosen from: α-hydroxy acids; salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; HEPES; procysteine; O-octanoyl-6-D-maltose; disodium salt of methyl glycine diacetic acid; ceramides; steroids such as diosgenin and DHEA derivatives; kojic acid; N-ethyloxycarbonyl-4-para-aminophenol; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, optionally stabilized with a copolymer such as a styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer (50/50), in the form of 30% ammonium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000H by the company ATOFINA or the styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer (50/50), in the form of 40% sodium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000HNa by the company ATOFINA; bilberry extracts; retinoids and in particular retinol and its esters; polypeptides and their acyl derivatives; phytohormones; yeast extracts Saccharomyces cerevisiae; seaweed extracts; soy, lupine, corn and / or pea extracts; alverine and its salts, in particular alverine citrate; resveratrol; carotenoids and in particular lycopene; tocopherol and its esters; coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone, idebenone; xanthines and in particular caffeine and natural extracts containing them; extracts of small holly and horse chestnut; and their mixtures, without this list being limiting. The composition according to the invention may further contain at least one UVA and / or UVB filter.

  The sunscreens may be chosen from organic screening agents, inorganic screening agents and mixtures thereof.

  As examples of organic screening agents that are active in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, mention may be made hereinafter of their CTFA name: para-aminobenzoic acid derivatives: PABA, Ethyl PABA Ethyl Dihydroxypropyl PABA, Ethylhexyl Dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name ESCALOL 507 by ISP, Glyceryl PABA, PEG-25 PABA sold under the name UVINUL P25 by BASF, Salicylic derivatives: Homosalate sold under the name EUSOLEX HMS by RONA / EM INDUSTRIES, Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN OS by HAARMANN and REIMER, Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name DIPSAL by SCHER, TEA Salicylate, sold under the name NEO HELIOPAN TS by HAARMANN and REIMER, derivatives of dibenzoylmethane: Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane sold especially under the trade name PARSOL 1789 by HOFFMANN LA ROCHE, Isopropyl Dibenzoylmethane, - cinnamic derivatives: Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold in particular under the trade name PARSOL MCX p ROSHE HOFFMANN, Isopropyl Methoxy cinnamate, Isoamyl Methoxy cinnamate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN E 1000 by HAARMANN and REIMER, Cinoxate, DEA Methoxycinnamate, Diisopropyl Methylcinnamate, Glyceryl Ethylhexanoate Dimethoxycinnamate, 13,13'-diphenylacrylate derivatives: Octocrylene sold especially under the trade name UVINUL N539 by BASF, Etocrylene, sold especially under the trade name UVINUL N35 by BASF, - benzophenone derivatives: Benzophenone-1 sold under the trade name UVINUL 400 by BASF, Benzophenone-2 sold under the name trade name UVINUL D50 by BASF, Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone, sold under the trade name UVINUL M40 by BASF, Benzophenone-4 sold under the trade name UVINUL MS40 by BASF, Benzophenone-5, Benzophenone-6 sold under the trade name HELISORB 11 by NORQUAY, Benzophenone-8 sold under the trade name SPECTRA-SORB UV-24 BY AMERICAN CYANAMID, Benzophenone-9 sold under the name co mmercial UVINUL DS-49 by BASF, Benzophenone-12, - benzylidene camphor derivatives: 3-Benzylidene camphor, 4-Methylbenzylidene camphor sold under the name EUSOLEX 6300 by MERCK, Benzylidene Camphor Sulfonic Acid, Camphor Benzalkonium Methosulfate, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid , Polyacrylamidomethyl Benzylidene Camphor, - phenyl benzimidazole derivatives: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 by Merck, Benzimidazilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN AP by HAARMANN and REIMER, - Triazine derivatives: Anisotriazine sold under the trade name TINOSORB S by CIBA GEIGY, Ethylhexyl triazone sold in particular under the trade name UVINUL T150 by BASF, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone sold under the trade name UVASORB HEB by SIGMA 3V, - Derivatives of phenyl benzotriazole: Drometrizole Trisiloxane sold under the name 10 SILATRIZOLE by RHODIA CHEMISTRY, - the d anthranilic derivatives: Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trade name NEO HELIOPAN MA by HAARMANN and REIMER, - Imidazoline derivatives: Ethylhexyl Dimethoxybenzylidene Dioxoimidazoline Propionate, 15 - Benzalmalonate derivatives: Polyorganosiloxane with benzalmalonate functions sold under the trade name PARSOL SLX by HOFFMANN ROCHE, - Hexyl benzoate derivatives: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate or Uvinul A Plus from BASF and their mixtures. More particularly preferred organic UV filters are selected from the following compounds: Ethylhexyl salicylate, Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene, Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid, Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic. Benzophenone-3, -Benzophenone-4, -Benzophenone-5, -4-methylbenzylidene camphor, -Benzimidazilate, -Anisotriazine, 35-Ethylhexyl triazone, Diethylhexyl-butamido-triazone, Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl-Tetramethylbutylphenol, -Derometrizole-Trisiloxane, and their mixtures.

  The inorganic filters that can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular nanopigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoated metal oxides, for example nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium. Coating agents are, moreover, silica, alumina, and / or aluminum stearate. Such nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent applications EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773.

  In a known manner, the composition of the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, pigments, odor absorbers and dyestuffs. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase or into the aqueous phase. These adjuvants, as well as their concentrations, must be such that they do not adversely affect the advantageous properties of the non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting, filamentous bacterial extract.

  As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms and the liquid fraction of shea butter; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

  As emulsifiers and coemulsifiers that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of O / W emulsifiers such as fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol, in particular PEG-100 stearate, and fatty acid esters of glycerine such as glyceryl stearate, as well as W / O emulsifiers such as the oxyethylenated poly (methylcetyl) (dimethyl) methylsiloxane available under the trade name ABIL WE09 from Degussa Goldschmidt or the mixture of ethylene glycol acetyl stearate. and glyceryl tristearate sold by Guardian under the trade name UNITWIX.

  As hydrophilic gelling agents, mention may in particular be made of carboxyvinyl polymers (carbomer), acrylic copolymers such as copolymers of acrylates / alkylacrylates, polyacrylamides, polysaccharides, natural gums and clays, and, as lipophilic gelling agents, it is possible to mention mention modified clays such as bentones, metal salts of fatty acids, hydrophobic silica and polyethylenes.

  As fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, besides the pigments, the silica powder; talcum; starch crosslinked with octenylsuccinic anhydride sold by National Starch under the name DRY FLO PLUS (28-1160); polyamide particles and in particular those sold under the name ORGASOL by the company Atochem; polyethylene powders; micro-spheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Piast or under the name MICROPEARL F 80 ED by the company Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl by the company Toshiba Silicone; and their mixtures. These fillers may be present in amounts ranging from 0 to 20% by weight and preferably from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition or the preparation according to the invention.

  The invention also relates to the use of at least one nonsynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and at least one compound of the N-acylamino amide family in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as a combination intended for improve the protection and / or stimulation of elastin synthesis.

  By `improving protection 'is meant according to the invention prevent and / or fight more effectively against the degradation of elastin. In particular, this combination makes it possible to obtain a synergistic effect on the protection and / or stimulation of elastin synthesis. This combination is intended in particular to prevent and / or fight against the loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, in particular to prevent and / or fight soft and / or flabby skin and other signs of skin aging.

  According to the invention, the term "cutaneous signs of aging" is understood to mean a thinning of the skin and in particular of the dermis, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, the appearance of dry and / or rough skin, a decrease in softness and / or tone and / or firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

  This combination may also be used in cosmetic compositions for preventing and / or treating the formation of stretch marks.

  The invention also relates to the use, in a physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract as a fruiting agent for sensitizing the cells of the skin, and in particular the fibroblasts, to the action of an agent increasing the synthesis of elastin and / or inhibiting its degradation.

  By "sensitizing the cells" is meant according to the invention the ability of said bacterial extract to make skin cells, and in particular fibroblasts, more receptive to the effect of other active agents and in particular to the compound of the family of N-acylamino amides known to protect and / or stimulate elastin synthesis.

  The agent increasing the expression of elastin synthesis and / or preventing its degradation may be present in the same composition as the bacterial extract or in a separate composition, which may be applied before, simultaneously with or after said composition containing the bacterium extract.

  It will be said that said bacterial extract is capable of potentiating and / or increasing the response of cutaneous cells to an agent increasing the synthesis of elastin and / or preventing its degradation.

  The Applicant has in fact shown that it is possible to increase, in particular synergistically, the protection and / or stimulation of elastin synthesis by combining at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial non-fruiting extract and a compound of the family of N-acylamino amides.

  As another agent that increases the synthesis of elastin and / or prevents its degradation that can be used according to the invention, mention may in particular be made of, in addition to the compounds of the family of N-acylamino amides described above, the Saccharomyces Cerivisiae extract marketed by the LSN company under the trade name Cytovitin; the algae extract Macrocystis pyrifera marketed by SECMA under the trade name Kelpadelie; and the bambara extract (voandzeia subterranea) marketed by the company LS under the name FILLADYN LS 9397; the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum; heparinoids; and their mixtures. The combination according to the invention also makes it possible to reduce the necessary amount of compound of the family of N-acylamino amides to obtain an effect on the protection and / or synthesis of elastin.

  Preferably, the nonsynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract that can be used according to the invention is chosen from a cellular extract, the supernatant of said cell extract and an active fraction of said lipopolysaccharide-enriched cell extract.

  The bacteria extracts that can be used according to the invention are described previously in the description.

  In particular, the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria extract is an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis, preferably a cell extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis or an active fraction of this lipopolysaccharide enriched cell extract (LPS).

  Preferably, the bacterial extract is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10%, in particular from 0.005 to 2%, by weight of dry extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria non-fruiting by weight. total of the composition.

  The compounds of the family of N-acylamino-amides that can be used according to the invention are described previously in the description.

  Preferably, the compound of the family of N-acylamino amides is selected from: - {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} -acetic acid; ethyl {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetate; [2- (acetyl-benzyl-amino) -3-methyl-butyrylamino] -acetic acid; [2- (acetyl-benzyl-amino) -3-methyl-butyrylamino] ethyl acetate; and ethyl (2- {benzyl - [(diethoxy-phosphoryl) -acetyl] amino} -3-methyl-butyrylamino) acetate. And more preferably, {2- [acetyl] acid is used. - (3-Trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid.

  The compound of the family of N-acylamino amides will generally be present in the composition in an amount of between 0.00001 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular between 0.001 and 10% by weight.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting filamentous bacterial extract is a cell extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and the compound of the family of N-acylamino amides is {2- [acetyl] trifluoromethylphenyl) amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid.

  A preferred combination according to the invention will comprise an extract of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium non-fruiting and a compound of the family of N-acylamino amides are present in the composition in a weight ratio greater than 1/25, preferably greater than or equal to 1/10, and in particular greater than or equal to 1. By way of example, said compounds can be used in a weight ratio ranging from 1 to 30, preferably from 5 to 20. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting, filamentous bacterium and at least one compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides.

  In particular, the method according to the invention is intended to prevent and / or treat soft and / or flabby skin and other cutaneous signs of aging.

  By "cutaneous signs of aging" is meant in particular according to the invention a thinning of the skin and in particular of the dermis, the formation of wrinkles and fine lines, the appearance of dry and / or rough skin, a decrease in flexibility and / or tone and / or firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.

  It also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for preventing and / or treating the formation of stretch marks, comprising the application to the skin of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non-photosynthetic, non-fruiting, filamentous bacterium and at least one compound of the N-acylaminoamide family.

  Examples of non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria non-fruiting and of the family of N-acylaminoamides are described previously in the description.

  The compositions according to the invention are advantageously intended to be applied to the areas of the face and / or the body, in particular the zones marked by a loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, and / or on persons presenting with loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin. In particular, the composition may be applied to the face, belly and thighs. In the context of this process, the composition may be, for example, a care composition or a makeup composition.

  The application of the compositions according to the invention may for example be carried out daily, in the morning and / or evening.

  The invention will now be described with reference to the following examples given for illustrative and non-limiting. In these examples, unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are expressed as percentages by weight. EXAMPLES Example 1 Preparation of an Extract of Vitreoscilla Filiformis a) Cell Extract and Supernatant The strain of Vitreoscilla fil / for / mis (ATCC 15551) was cultured according to the method described in the patent application 94-02158. It is a continuous culture process. The culture is carried out at 26 ° C. for at least 48 hours until a suitable cell concentration corresponding to an optical density at 600 nm greater than or equal to 1.5 is obtained. The strain is transplanted to 2% V / V in new medium for approximately 48 hours until a stable culture is obtained. A 1 liter Erlenmeyer flask containing 200 ml of fresh medium is then inoculated with 4 ml of the preceding culture. The Erlenmeyer culture is carried out at 26 ° C. on a shaking culture table at 100 rpm. The resulting starter is used as an inoculum for a 50 liter fermentor. The growth is carried out at 26 C, pH 7, 100 rpm and pO 2> 15%. After 30 hours of growth, the biomass is transferred to a fermenter 3000 liters useful, to be grown under the same conditions. After 48 hours of growth, the cells are harvested continuously. The biomass is then concentrated about 50 times by centrifugation. The cells obtained are then frozen as and when continuous culture. These cells can be used in the state after thawing (unstabilized cell extract) or be stabilized by autoclaving at 121 ° C. for 20 to 40 minutes (stabilized cell extract). The cells then burst during sterilization by releasing the cytosol and agglomerating the proteins as well as the walls. The product obtained is then biphasic. The supernatant liquid phase can be filtered at 0.22 m to remove the particles (`supernatant '). The bacterial extract, in the form of a cell extract (stabilized or not) or a supernatant, can be used in the state (aqueous form) or can be lyophilized according to conventional techniques (freeze-dried form).

  In another embodiment, an extract containing lipopolysaccharides is prepared as described below. b) Active Fraction containing Lipopolysaccharides (LPS) (M. A. Apicella, J. McLeod Gritliss, and H. Schneider, 1994 Methods in Enzymology, Vol 235, (242-252))

  Various methods make it possible to isolate the fraction of interest containing the lipopolysaccharides: the modified phenol-water method (Johnson and Perry, 1975, Can J. Microbial, 22, p 29) described in paragraph 1 below; the method of Darveau and Hancock (1983, J.Bact.:155, p 831) which uses SDS to solubilize lipopolysaccharides, which makes it possible to separate them from the insoluble peptidoglycan, this method is described in paragraph 2 below. Proteins are removed from the lipopolysaccharide-containing fraction by enzymatic digestion (Pronase), the lipopolysaccharide fraction is then precipitated with ethanol. the extraction method using proteinase K described in paragraph 3 below. 1. Modified phenol technique 1.1. Preparation of crude lipopolysaccharides To 5 g of Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551) bacteria frozen or dried with acetone in powder form are added 25 ml of 50 mM Na phosphate buffer pH 7 containing 5 mM EDTA, the mixture is stirred. The following steps are then carried out: addition of 100 mg of lysozyme, stirring for 1 night at 4 ° C., then incubation at 37 ° C. for 20 minutes; centrifugation for 3 min at low speed, volume adjustment to 100 ml with 50 mM Na phosphate buffer pH 7 containing 20 mM MgCl 2; addition of RNase, DNase (at 1 μg / ml), incubation for 60 min at 37 ° C. and then for 60 min at 60 ° C .; the bacterial suspension is placed in a bath at 70 ° C., an equal volume of phenol 90% (w / v), preheated to 70 ° C., is added to it; it is cooled by stirring for 15 minutes in an ice-bath, centrifugation at 18,000 g for 15 min at 4 C. A marked interface is between the aqueous and phenolic phases. The aqueous phase contains the lipopolysaccharides, after dialysis against water, this phase is lyophilized.

  1.2. Purification of crude lipopolysaccharides 20 to 35 mg of lipopolysaccharides / ml of distilled water are centrifuged at low speed (1100 g, 5 min). The supernatant obtained is then centrifuged at high speed (105,000 g, 16 h, 4 ° C.). The pellet is suspended in water, the centrifugation is repeated until purified lipopolysaccharides are obtained. The final pellet is resuspended in water and lyophilized. 2. SDS Method To 500 mg of bacterial cells of Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551) dried, are added 15 ml of 10 mM Tris-HCl buffer pH 8.2 mM MgCl 2, 100 μg / ml Dnase and 25 μg / ml Rnase. The mixture is subjected to a French press 2 times, 15,000 psi, then sonication, 2 times at 6 W, 30 sec. The following steps are then applied: addition of DNase 200 μg final and Rnase 50 μg final, incubation 37 ° C. 2 h, addition of 5 ml 0.5M EDTA in 10 μM Tris-HCl pH 8, 2.5 ml 20% SDS dissolved in 10 mM Tris-HCl and 2.5 mM Tris-HCl pH 8. The final volume obtained was 25 ml containing 0.1 M EDTA; 2% SDS and 10 mM Tris-HCl pH 9.5, the mixture is vortexed and centrifuged at 50,000 g for 30 min at 20 ° C.

  The supernatant is decanted. The sediment that contains the peptidoglycan is discarded. Pronase is added to the supernatant at a final concentration of 200 μM, followed by incubation at 37 ° C. overnight, with stirring (if a precipitate forms, remove it by centrifuging 1000 g for 10 min). The lipopolysaccharides are precipitated with ethanol 95% (v / v) containing 0.376M MgCl 2 -70 C, then centrifuged (12,000 g, 15 min, 4 C). The pellet obtained is suspended in 25 ml of 2% SDS, 0.1 M EDTA, 10 mM Tris-HCl pH 8, sonicated and then incubated at 85 ° C. for 10 to 30 min. After cooling, the solution is adjusted to pH 9.5. Pronase is added at 25 μg / ml, incubation at 37 ° C., overnight, with stirring.

  The lipopolysaccharides are again precipitated with ethanol 95% (v / v) containing 0.376M MgCl 2 and then centrifuged (12,000 g 15 min 4 C). To remove the insoluble Mg 2 + EDTA crystals, the pellet is resuspended in 15 ml of 10 mM Tris-HCl pH 8 buffer, sonicated and centrifuged (1,000 g, 5 min). The supernatant is then centrifuged (200,000 g, 2h 15 C) in the presence of 25 mM MgCl 2. The pellet that contains the lipopolysaccharides is suspended in distilled water.

  3. Extraction of Lipopolysaccharides Using Proteinase K (Zanen and, 1988, FEMS Microbiology Letters 50, 85-88).

  1.5 g of lyophilized Vitreoscilla filiformis (ATCC 15551) cells are added, 30 ml of buffer containing 2% SDS, 5% 2-mercaptoethanol, 10% glycerol, and 0.25M Tris-HCl pH 6.8 are added.

  The mixture is incubated for 15 to 30 min, 100 ° C., centrifuged (10,000 g, 30 min, 4 ° C.). The supernatant (20 ml) is recovered, 12 mg proteinase K is added, incubated at 60 ° C. for 1 h and the lipopolysaccharides are precipitated with 95% (v / v) ethanol containing 0.376M MgCl 2, -20 C overnight, reprecipitate the lipopolysaccharides with ethanol 95% (v / v) under the same conditions as above, the pellet obtained is suspended in 10 ml of water, dialyzed and freeze-dried.

  Example 2 - Effect of Association of an Extract of Filamentous Bacteria with Acetyl Trifluoromethylphenylvalvlalvine on Elastin Synthesis The capacity of a cell extract of filamentous bacterium as prepared according to Example 1 was measured and {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid or N- [N-acetyl, N '- (3-trifluoromethyl) phenyl valyl] glycine (ATPVG) , alone or as a mixture, to increase the expression of elastin in fibroblasts in culture.

  The study was performed from a pool of normal human dermal fibroblasts. These cells were cultured at 37 ° C. and 5% CO 2 in a DMEM medium supplemented with L-glutamine (2 mM), a penicillin / streptomycin mixture (50 IU / ml, 50 μg / ml) and calf serum. fetal (1%). A preliminary cytotoxicity study using an MTT test was performed to define the non-cytotoxic test concentrations.

  The effect on elastin was determined by quantitative RT-PCR technique. The primer pairs that have been used allow the amplification of the following specific fragments: Gene name Abreviation Gene bank n Liver glyceraldehyde 3- G3PDH X01677 phosphate dehydrogenase (= reference gene) Elastin precursor ELASTIN M36860 (tropoelastin) The fibroblasts were pre grown in 24-well plates in complete medium (DMEM with 10% fetal calf serum FCS) for 24 hours. The culture medium was then replaced with DMEM medium containing 1% FCS, with or without the product under test or reference, and then the cells were cultured for 24 hours at 37 ° C. and 5% CO 2.

  Each treatment was performed in duplicate. The culture supernatants were then removed and the cell mats were rinsed with PBS solution and placed in sterile RNA-free tubes in the presence of Tri-Reagent and immediately frozen. The reverse transcription was carried out as follows: extraction of the total RNAs using Tri-reagent (Sigma T9424), removal of traces of potentially contaminating DNA by treatment with the DNA-free system (Ambion), production of the reverse transcription reaction of the mRNA in the presence of the oligo primer (dT) and the Superscript II enzyme (Gibco).

  PCR reactions (polymerase chain reactions) were performed by quantitative PCR with the Light Cycler system (Roche Molecular Systems Inc.) and according to the procedures recommended by the supplier. The conditions of the PCR are as follows: activation of 10 min. at 95 ° C., PCR reactions in 40 cycles, melting at 95 ° C. for 5 sec and then for 5 sec. at 60 C.

  Fluorescence analysis in amplified DNA is measured continuously during PCR cycles. This system makes it possible to obtain fluorescence measurement curves as a function of PCR cycles and thus to evaluate a relative expression value for each marker. The value of RE (relative expression) is expressed in arbitrary units according to the following formula: (1/2 number of cycles) X 106 In this study, reference product IL1a (Sigma 13894) was tested at a concentration of 10 ng / ml. The cell extract of filamentous bacterium was tested at a concentration of 0.01% (w / v). ATPVG was tested at a concentration of 0.04 mg / ml. The filamentous bacterial extract / ATPVG combination was tested at the corresponding concentrations. The results were related to the amount of G3PDH messengers (reference gene).

  The results obtained are shown in the table below. Treatment Conc. G3PDH Elastin RE * G3PDH RE * ELAST ELAST% 10 15 cycles Cycles (AU) (AU) / Indicator G3PDH Indicator - 19.54 31.50 1.251 3.005 10-4 2. 40 100 19.60 31.78 10-4 19.69 31.63 ILla 10 19.83 30.52 1.160 6.548 10 -4 5. 65 235 ng / ml 19.65 30.42 10-4 19.68 30.59 Extract 0.01% 19.50 30.64 1. 334 5.736 10-4 4.30 179 bacteria 19.48 30.74 10-4 19.57 30.72 ATPVG 0.04 19. 26 30.76 1.421 5.946 10-4 4.18 174 mg / ml * 19.49 30.64 10-4 19.54 30.55 Mixture 0.01% 19.54 29.42 1.321 1.392 10-3 1.05 439 extract of / 0.04 19.50 29.54 10-3 bacteria / mg / ml 19.55 29.31 ATPVG * equivalent to 0.004%

  The reference product IL1a tested at 10 ng / ml stimulated the relative expression of the messenger elastin. This result validates the test.

  These results show that the bacterial extract and the ATPVG product respectively moderately stimulated the relative expression of elastin and that their mixture stimulated the expression of elastin in a synergistic manner. The bacterial extract potentiates the effect of ATPVG on the protection and / or stimulation of elastin synthesis. Example 3 - Formulations Composition for topical application The following emulsion is prepared in the conventional manner (% by weight) 0.5% acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine extract Vitreoscilla filliformis 1.5% propylene glycol isostearate polyethylene glycol (8%) propylene glycol - pentylene glycol - glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol stearate (100 0E) 5% - oxyethylenated sorbitan mono-stearate 0.5% - oxyethylenated (20 OE) oxypropylene (5 PO) cetyl alcohol 1% -gelling 0.5 0 / 0 - C12-15 alkyl benzoates 4 0/0 - ethanol 3% - sodium hydroxide 0.12 0/0 - preservatives qs - water qs 100 0/0 Facial cream

  The following oil-in-water emulsion is conventionally prepared (% by weight) - acetyl trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine 0.1% - Vitreoscilla extract fil / for / mis 1% - glycerol stearate 20% - polysorbate 60 (Tween 60 sold by the company ICI) - stearic acid - Triethanolamine -Carbomer - Liquid fraction of shea butter - Perhydroxysqualene - Antioxidant - Fragrance - Preservative - Water This cream is applied daily on the face firmness and elasticity of the skin.

  Milk for the face 1% 1,4 0/0 0,7 / U 0,4 0/0 12% 12% qs qs qs qsp 100 0/0 and / or the neck to improve the 32 The following milk is prepared conventional way (% by weight) 0.1% - trifluoromethyl phenyl valylglycine acid - Vitreoscilla filiformis extract 0.5% - Vaseline oil 7% - glyceryl monostearate, polyethylene glycol stearate (100%) 3% - carboxyvinylpolymer 0.4 0 / 0 - Stearyl alcohol 0.7 0/0 Soy proteins 3% -Na OH 0.4% - Preservative qs -Gsp100% water The extract of Vitreoscilla filliformis is prepared according to one of the methods described in Example 1. Preferably, will be a cell extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis.

Claims (20)

  A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and at least one compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides, in a weight ratio greater than 1/25.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria extract non-fruiting and the compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides are present in the composition in a weight ratio greater than or equal to 1. said composition is not one of the following compositions: 2.5% Composition A {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} ethyl acetate Photolyase (DNA Protector) 0, 1% Extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis 0.1% Preservatives 1.35% Sodium citrate 0.035% PEG-40 1.25% Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate 4% Glycerin 7% Sorbitan tristearate 0.3% Prunus armeniaca Kermel oil 2% Cetyl alcohol 0.7 % Propylene glycol 2% Triethanolamine 0.4% Cyclohexasiloxane 2%   3. Composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and not at least one compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides, characterized in that the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria extract is not fructifying. present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001% to 10% by weight of dry extract of bacteria relative to the total weight of the composition and that Carbomer Tocopherol Silica Ascorbyl glucoside Polycaprolactone ùbeta carotene Water qs Composition B {2- [acetyl] (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} ethyl acetate 3.5% Vitreoscilla filiformis extract 0.1% Cetyl alcohol and cetyl stearyl alcohol oxyethylene (33OE) blend 80/20 7.0% Mixture of glycerol mono and distearate 2.0% Cetyl alcohol 1.5% Poly dimethylsiloxane 1.5% Vaseline oil 15.0% Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 3.0% Octocrylene 7.0% Glyceri only 20.0% Demineralised water qs 100%   4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides is chosen from: - {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3 -acid methyl-butyrylaminoacetic acid; ethyl {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetate; [2- (acetyl-benzyl-amino) -3-methyl-butyrylamino] -acetic acid; [2- (acetyl-benzyl-amino) -3-methyl-butyrylamino] ethyl acetate; and ethyl (2- {benzyl - [(diethoxy-phosphoryl) -acetyl] -amino} -3-methyl-butyrylamino) acetate.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria extract non-fruiting is selected from a cell extract, the supernatant of said cell extract or an active fraction of said cell extract enriched in lipopolysaccharides.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-photosynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract is an extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract is a fruit extract of Vitreoscilla filiformis and the compound of the family of N-acylaminoamides is the acid {2- [acetyl- (3-trifluoromethyl-phenyl) -amino] -3-methyl-butyrylamino} acetic acid.   8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the bacterial extract is present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 10%, in particular from 0.005 to 2%, by weight of solids. non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium non-fruiting in relation to the total weight of the composition.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compound of the family of N-acylamino amides is present in the composition in an amount of between 0.00001 and 20% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition, especially between 0.001 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   10. Cosmetic use of at least one extract of non-photosynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium and at least one compound of the family of N-acylamino amides in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as a combination intended to improve the protection and / or the stimulation of elastin synthesis.   11. Cosmetic use of at least one extract of non-photosynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium and at least one compound of the family of N-acylamino amides in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as a combination intended to prevent and / or fight against the loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin.   12. Use according to one of claims 10 or 11, as a combination for preventing and / or fighting against cutaneous signs of aging.   13. Cosmetic use of at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract and at least one compound of the family of N-acylamino amides in a composition containing a physiologically acceptable medium, as a combination intended to prevent and / or treat the formation of stretch marks.   14. Cosmetic use, in a composition containing at least one physiologically acceptable medium, of at least one nonsynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract as agent for sensitizing skin cells to the action of a synthetic enhancer elastin and / or inhibiting its degradation present in the same composition or in a distinct composition.   15. Use according to claim 14, characterized in that the agent increasing the synthesis of elastin and / or inhibiting its degradation is selected from a compound of the family of N-acylamino amides; retinol and derivatives; bambara extract or voandzeia subterranea; the peptide extract of seeds of Pisum sativum; heparinoids, and mixtures thereof.   16. Use according to one of claims 10 to 15, characterized in that the non-photosynthetic filamentous bacteria extract non-fruiting is selected from a cell extract, the supernatant of said cell extract and an active fraction of said cell extract enriched in lipopolysaccharides.   17. Use according to any one of claims 10 to 16, characterized in that the non-photosynthetic non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterial extract is a Vitreoscilla filiform extract.   18. A cosmetic treatment method for the loss of firmness and / or elasticity of the skin, comprising the application to the skin of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one non-photosynthetic filamentous bacterium which does not bear fruit. and at least one compound of the N-acylaminoamide family.   19. The method of claim 18 for preventing and / or treat the cutaneous signs of aging.   20. The method of claim 18 for preventing and / or treating the formation of stretch marks.