FR2890311A1 - Use of plant extract of genus Rosa with composition as an agent for preventing or reducing adhesion of micro-organisms on skin surface and/or mucous membranes - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of plant extract of genus Rosa in a composition as an agent for preventing or reducing adhesion of micro-organisms on skin surface and/or mucous membranes. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process to prevent and/or fight against the disorders related to the adhesion of the micro-organisms comprising applying a composition containing the extract of genus Rosa in a medium, on the skin and/or mucous membranes; and (2) a process to reduce the bad body odor comprising topically applying the composition containing the extract of genus Rosa in a medium on the skin.

Description

The present application relates to the use of a plant extract of

  Rosa genus in a cosmetic composition as an agent preventing or reducing the adhesion of microorganisms on the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

  Human skin is permanently populated by a multitude of different microorganisms (bacteria, yeasts and fungi). Commensal microorganisms living on or in the skin may be part of a microflora that is either resident (normal) or transient. The resident microbial flora, essential for the good health of the skin, consists mainly of staphylococci (Staphylococcus epidermis and Staphylococcus hominis), corynebacteria, Gram + propionibacteria such as Propionibacterium acnes, as well as a fungal flora mainly composed of Pytosporum. oval. Their presence is established in well-defined distribution profiles. Usually, transient microorganisms do not bind firmly; they are unable to multiply and normally die after a few hours.

  The anatomy and physiology of the skin varies from one part of the body to another and the resident microflora reflects these variations.

  Most skin bacteria are present on the superficial squamous epidermis, colonizing dead cells and closely associated with the sebaceous and sweat glands. Excretions from these glands provide water, amino acids, urea, electrolytes and specific fatty acids as nutrients primarily for Staphylococcus epidermidis and aerobic corynebacteria.

  Skin infections are most often due to the breakdown of the ecological balance of the resident flora following the colonization of the skin by exogenous pathogens or the abnormal proliferation of an endogenous strain. The most well-known pathogens are Pseudomonas aeruginosa (Gram -) which causes small pimples, folliculitis, redness and pruritus, Candida albicans can cause inflammation at the corner of the lips, cutaneous candidiasis, pruritus, folliculitis and canker sores, Staphylococcus aureus that can cause pimples, folliculitis, impetigo, and boils, and Streptococcus group A responsible for impetigo.

  To combat these microorganisms, it is common to use antibiotics or bactericides. The use of these compounds, however, raises the problem of the non-specificity of action aimed indifferently at the pathogenic flora and the resident flora, the problem of the risk of occurrence of bacterial resistance, as well as skin tolerance problems (irritations, allergies, ...).

  It is also known to reduce or prevent the colonization of surfaces such as teeth, skin and / or mucous membranes by pathogenic germs by preventing their attachment to these supports. The compounds used as antiadhesion agents described in the prior art are either silicones (WO-99/62475) or carbohydrates and carbohydrate derivatives, such as those described in the application WO-96/23479, or vegetable oils as described in the patent application EP-1 133 979.

  Most carbohydrates are a source of carbon for bacteria and fungi. Their presence in cosmetic compositions therefore promotes microbial proliferation and requires the increase in the concentration of preservatives (bactericidal or bacteriostatic). This disadvantage thus cancels the benefit of the approach of replacing antibiotic or bactericidal compounds with compounds reducing microbial adhesion.

  Furthermore, it is known from the application EP-A-906752 a plant extract of the Rosaceae family, and in particular a plant extract of Rosa Gallica L., as substance P antagonist agent and in particular for treating sensitive skin.

  The Applicant has demonstrated that, surprisingly, an extract of a plant of the genus Rosa could significantly reduce the adhesion of microorganisms to the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes, and thereby prevent the proliferation of potentially pathogenic germs in the absence of antibiotic, bactericidal or fungicidal agents, and without the need to use a large amount of preservatives.

  The subject of the invention is therefore the cosmetic use of an extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa in a composition as an agent preventing or reducing the adhesion of microorganisms to the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes.

  By "preventing or reducing the adhesion of microorganisms", it is to be understood that the plant extract of the genus Rosa described above or the composition containing them can be used both as a preventive measure, for their ability to prevent, totally or partially , the adhesion of microorganisms, that curative for their ability to facilitate the detachment of microorganisms.

  The extract of at least one plant of the Rosa genus may be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from at least one plant of the genus Rosa.

  The Rosa genus contains more than 1000 species, including Rosa alba, Rosa alpina, Rosa canina, Rosa cinnamonea, Rosa gallica, Rosa repens, Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa stylosa and Rosa tomentosa. Rosa villosa.

  The plant extract of the genus Rosa used according to the invention may be an extract prepared from material derived from at least one plant belonging to a species chosen from Rosa alba L., Rosa alpina, Rosa canina L., Rosa centifolia L., cinnamonea Rosa, Rosa damascena Mill. , Rosa gallica L., Rosa repens, Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa stylosa, Rosa tomentosa, Rosa villosa. lo

  Preferably, according to the invention, the plant belongs to the species Rosa gallica L. The extract of at least one plant of the Rosa genus may be any extract prepared from any plant material derived from at least one plant of the Rosa genus cultivated in vivo or derived from in vitro culture.

  By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type, ie in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse, or above ground.

  By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo.

  Preferably, according to the invention, a plant derived from an in vivo culture is used.

  The extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa used according to the invention may be obtained from plant material derived from whole plant or part of plant such as leaves, stems, flowers, petals, roots or still undifferentiated cells.

  By undifferentiated plant cells is meant any plant cell having none of the characters of a particular specialization and capable of living on its own and not dependent on other cells. These undifferentiated plant cells are possibly capable, under the effect of induction, to any differentiation according to their genome. lo

  Depending on the culture method chosen, and in particular according to the culture medium chosen, it is possible to obtain, from the same explant, undifferentiated plant cells having different characters.

  Preferably, according to the invention, petals are used.

  According to the invention, the amount of extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa used in the composition is of course a function of the desired effect and can therefore vary to a large extent.

  Any extraction method known to those skilled in the art can be used to prepare the extract contained in the composition according to the invention.

  In particular, mention may be made of aqueous, alcoholic or organic solvent extracts.

  By aqueous solvent is meant any solvent constituted totally or by water. We can thus mention the water itself, the alcoholic solvents in any proportion or the solvents consisting of water and a compound such as propylene glycol in any proportion. Among the alcoholic solvents, mention may be made especially of ethanol.

  A water / propylene glycol mixture ranging from 40/60 to 60/40 is preferably used.

  It is also possible to use an extract prepared by the method described in the French patent application No. 95-02379 filed by the applicant.

  Thus, in a first step, the plant material is crushed in a cold aqueous solution, in a second step the suspended particles are removed from the aqueous solution resulting from the first step, and in a third step the aqueous solution resulting from the first step is sterilized. the second step. This aqueous solution corresponds to the extract.

  On the other hand, the first step may advantageously be replaced by a simple freezing operation of the plant tissues (for example at 20 ° C.), followed by an aqueous extraction taking up the second and third steps described above.

  Whatever the method of preparation used according to the invention subsequent steps to promote conservation and / or stabilization can be added without changing the nature of the extract itself. Thus, for example, the extract obtained can be lyophilized by any conventional freeze-drying method.

  A powder is thus obtained which can be used directly or mixed in an appropriate solvent before use.

  Preferably, according to the invention, an aqueous extract is used and even more preferably an extract made with a solvent composed of water and propylene glycol, such as for example Herbasol, in particular Herbasol Extract Rose Flower, sold by COSMETOCHEM.

  The plant extract of the genus Rosa described previously used according to the invention may be present in the composition, in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01 to % to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight.

  The compositions used according to the invention may constitute in particular cosmetic and dermatological compositions. They contain for such an application, a physiologically acceptable medium. The term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with the skin, and possibly with the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyes and / or the hair. This physiologically acceptable medium may more particularly consist of water and optionally of a physiologically acceptable organic solvent chosen, for example, from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, propanol and butanol. ; polyethylene glycols having from 6 to 80 ethylene oxide units; polyols such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerine, sorbitol. The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition according to the invention has a pH compatible with the skin, and preferably ranging from 3 to 8 and better still from 5 to 7.

  According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions used in the present invention further comprise an oil, including providing comfort and softness when applied to the skin. The amount of oil may range, for example, from 2 to 70% by weight and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  As oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of mineral oils (liquid petroleum jelly), vegetable oils (liquid fraction of shea butter, sunflower oil, apricot kernel oil), animal oils (perhydrosqualene) synthetic oils (hydrogenated polyisobutene, isostearyl neopentanoate, isopropyl myristate), nonvolatile or volatile silicone oils (cyclomethicones such as cyclopentasiloxane and cyclohexasiloxane) and fluorinated oils (perfluoropolyethers). Fatty alcohols, fatty acids and waxes may also be used as fats. The oily phase of the emulsion may also contain gums such as silicone gums, resins and waxes.

  The oil phase containing composition may be in the form of a water-in-oil (W / O) or oil-in-water (O / W) emulsion. According to a preferred embodiment, it is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

  In a known manner, the compositions of the invention may also contain adjuvants which are customary in the cosmetic or dermatological fields, such as hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants, solvents, perfumes, fillers, filters, bacteriocides, odor absorbers, dyestuffs, salts. The amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the field under consideration, and for example from 0.01 to 20% of the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0.01 to 10% of the total weight of the composition. These adjuvants, depending on their nature, can be introduced into the fatty phase, into the aqueous phase and / or into lipid spherules.

  As active ingredients, the composition may contain active ingredients conventionally used in cosmetics, such as agents preventing the adhesion of bacteria to the surface of the skin, desquamating agents, moisturizing agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents, depigmenting agents or pro-agents. peptizers, anti-glycation agents, NO-synthase inhibitors, 5α-reductase inhibitors, lysyl and / or prolyl hydroxylase inhibitors, agents stimulating the synthesis of dermal or epidermal macromolecules and / or preventing their degradation, the agents stimulating proliferation of fibroblasts or keratinocytes and / or differentiation of keratinocytes, muscle-relaxing agents, tensing agents, anti-pollution or anti-radical agents, soothing agents, lipolytic active agents or having a favorable activity, direct or indirect , on the decrease of the adipose tissue, the agents acting on the microcirculation, and the agents acting on the meta energy bolism of the cells.

  The composition for use according to the invention may contain other agents which prevent the adhesion of bacteria to the surface of the skin, such as the oils and fatty substances described in patent application EP-1 313 086, or the alkoxylated vegetable oils described in the patent application FR-2,832,057. It may also advantageously contain other active agents chosen from desquamating agents, moisturizing agents, anti-seborrhoeic agents and their mixtures.

  According to another embodiment of the invention, the compositions used may additionally comprise at least one organic photoprotective agent and / or at least one active inorganic photoprotective agent in the UVA and / or the UVB (absorbers), which are water-soluble or liposoluble or insoluble in commonly used cosmetic solvents.

  The preferred organic photoprotective agents are chosen from ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, octocrylene, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulphonic acid, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulphonate, 2,4,6-tris- (4'-amino benzalmalonate diisobutyl) -triazine, anisotriazine, ethylhexyl triazone, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  Inorganic photoprotective agents are chosen from pigments or even nanopigments (average size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoated metal oxides such as, for example, nanopigments of titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile and / or anatase form), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photoprotective agents well known per se. Conventional coating agents are, moreover, alumina and / or aluminum stearate. Such nanopigments of metal oxides, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent applications EP518772 and EP518773.

  The photoprotective agents are generally present in the compositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 0.2 to 15% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition.

  As gelling agents, mention may be made for example of cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose and alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses such as cetylhydroxyethylcellulose; algae derivatives such as satiagum; natural gums such as tragacanth or guar gum; synthetic polymers such as carboxyvinyl polymers or copolymers and in particular those sold under the names CarbopolR by the company Goodrich or Synthalen® by the company 3V SA. The proportion of gelling agent is preferably from 0.1 to 2% of the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions used according to the invention may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum or a paste. , a foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of a stick.

  The use of the plant extract according to the invention finds an application more specifically in the cosmetic or dermatological field. In particular, the compositions containing the plant extract may be used for cleaning and / or removing make-up and / or care of the skin. The plant extract may also be used in the context of the present invention in sunscreen products, in make-up products such as foundations, in lipsticks, mascaras, blushes, and / or in deodorants.

  A particular aspect of the invention relates to the use of an extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa as defined above, as an agent preventing or reducing the adhesion of microorganisms on the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes in a makeup removing composition of the skin.

  The microbial flora of the surface of the skin being responsible for a large number of disorders ranging from simple inconvenience (odor, pimples, etc.) to more serious diseases, the present invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a extract from at least one plant of the genus Rosa, as an agent for reducing bad body odor, and / or for personal hygiene care.

  Another aspect of the invention therefore relates to a cosmetic method for reducing body odor including topical application to the skin of a composition according to the invention containing an extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa in a physiologically compatible medium. acceptable.

  "For personal hygiene care" means a substance intended to be placed in contact with the various superficial parts of the human body and / or with the mucous membranes, and / or with the teeth, for the purpose of cleaning them, protect them, keep them in good condition, change their appearance, perfume them, or correct their odor.

  The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The compounds are, as the case may be, listed in chemical names or CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight.

Example 1

  A makeup-removing lotion having the following composition was prepared: Hydroglycolic extract of Rosa Gallica L. petals (Herbasol 1 Extract Rose Flower from COSMETOCHEM) Xanthane gum 0.01% Dextran sulphate 0.10% Glycerine 3% Propylene glycol 1 Trisodium salt of EDTA 0.03% Preservatives 0.40% Water qs 100% A lotion is obtained, the application of which on the skin makes it possible to prevent the adhesion of the bacteria to the surface of the skin.

Example 2

  A care cream having the following composition was prepared: Vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer (Antaron V 220F from ISP) 2% UV filters 15% Mixture of hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate (50/50) 3% PDMS 5 cst 7.5% Dimethiconol 0.5% Silica 1 Acrylic Polymers Thickening 1.50% Stearic Acid 1.10% Triethanolamine 0.20% Sucrose Stearate 1.30% Trisodium EDTA 0.20% Hydroglycolic Petal Extract of Rosa Gallica L. (Herbasol Extract Rose Flower from COSMETOCHEM) 0.50% Glycerin 5% Propylene glycol 1 Xanthan gum 0.20% Dextran sulphate 0.10% Corn starch esterified with octenyl succinic anhydride, sodium salt Aluminum (Dry Flo Plus 28-1160 from National Starch) 1.50% Preservatives qs Water qs 100% A day care cream is obtained, the application of which on the skin prevents the adhesion of bacteria to the skin. the surface of the skin.

  Example 3: Microbial anti-adhesion test Protocol: The activity of the hydroglycolic extract of Rosa Gallica L. petals of Herbasol Extract Rose Flower, sold by COSMETOCHEM was demonstrated on reconstructed epidermis. lo

  Before bacterial adhesion, the reconstructed epidermis is brought into contact for 2 hours with the aqueous solution of said mixture at 37 ° C. Then 1 ml of bacterial suspension of Staphylococcus aureus at a concentration of 107 seeds / ml in Tryptone is added thereto. salt. After incubation for 24 hours at 37 ° C., the bacterial suspension is emptied and five rinses are carried out with 1 ml of sterile distilled water. The reconstructed epidermis detached from its support is then ground using a robot in 18 ml of Tryptone salt. This suspension is diluted in Tryptone salt, seeded with 1 ml of the dilution in 15 ml of Trypticase Soy agar and incubated for 24 hours at 37 ° C. The cells are then counted. adherent and viable.

  This anti-adhesion test makes it possible to evaluate the effectiveness of single molecules. The test was performed 8 times and the average of the results obtained was noted.

  Before the anti-adhesion test, the following viability test is used: A bacteria / product mixture to be tested, in the same ratio as in the anti-adhesion test, is contacted for 24 hours at 37 ° C. Seed count is performed by decimal dilution in Tryptone salt and 100 μl rake on Trypticase Soy agar. Colony count is performed after 24 hours of incubation at 37 C.

  The viability test carried out prior to the anti-adhesion test confirmed that the hydroglycolic extract of Rosa Gallica L petals has no bactericidal activity.

  Results: The results obtained are summarized in the following table: Anti-adhesion activity Quantitative results (Log) hydroglycolic extract of -0.97 Rosa Gallica petals L Quantitative results correspond to the decrease of the logarithmic decimal mean number of viable Staphylococcus aureus adherent on the reconstructed epidermis after treatment with the tested formula relative to the decimal logarithm of the average number of viable Staphylococcus aureus adherent on the reconstructed epidermis after treatment with water under the same conditions.

  The qualitative results are expressed by a term that varies according to the log reduction values of the adhesion of the seeds after 24 hours compared with the same test using water: the result obtained shows that the hydroglycolic extract of 5 petals Rosa Gallica L has a bacterial anti-adhesion activity.

Claims (9)

  1. Cosmetic use of an extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa in a composition as an agent preventing or reducing the adhesion of microorganisms on the surface of the skin and / or mucous membranes.   2. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that the extract is an extract prepared from material from at least one plant belonging to a species selected from Rosa alba, Rosa alpina, Rosa canina, Rosa cinnamonea, Rosa gallica , Rosa repens, Rosa rubrifolia, Rosa rubiginosa, Rosa sempervirens, Rosa spinosissima, Rosa stylosa, Rosa tomentosa, Rosa villosa.   3. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plant belongs to the species Rosa gallica.   4. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa is obtained from plant material derived from whole plant or leaves, stems, flowers, petals, roots or undifferentiated cells.   5. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa is obtained from petals.   6. Use according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the extract of at least one plant of the genus Rosa is obtained from plant material derived from at least one plant of the genus Rosa grown in vivo.   7. Use according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the plant extract of the genus Rosa is present in the composition for topical application, in an amount ranging from 0.001 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight.   8. A cosmetic process for preventing and / or controlling disorders related to the adhesion of microorganisms comprising applying to the skin and / or the mucous membranes of a composition containing, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a plant extract of the genus Rosa according to one of claims 1 to 7.   9. A cosmetic method for reducing body odor including topical application to the skin of a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a plant extract of the genus Rosa according to one of claims 1 to 7.