FR2877841A1 - Cosmetic product contains fatty phase comprising at least one polyol ether and a paste compound - Google Patents

Abstract

The cosmetic product consists of a physiologically acceptable medium containing at least one fatty phase comprising at least one polyol ether, selected from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol and at least one paste constituent other than the polyol ether.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a

  fatty phase comprising at least one particular polyol ether. The composition may also contain at least one other pasty compound. This composition is capable of being used as a makeup and / or skincare composition for keratin materials such as

  skin, lips and integuments.

  EP 1 306 074 discloses a solid composition containing a polyol ether, an oil and a wax of reverse polarity. This document describes how this combination makes it possible to obtain a solid composition which does not melt at a temperature of less than or equal to 37 ° C., while spreading easily on the skin to provide a good deposit.

  The object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition which may be in the form of a stick or a paste. This composition has the advantage of providing a deposit on keratin materials that is comfortable, thick, intense in color and brilliant.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising at least one polyol ether chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers. The composition may contain at least one pasty compound other than said polyol ether.

  This composition may be brighter than the compositions of the prior art not containing a polyol ether. In addition, it can contain a high proportion of dyestuffs, especially pigments, while allowing to obtain a homogeneous and comfortable mixture.

  The present invention also relates to an anhydrous composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising at least one polyol ether, and at least one pasty compound.

  The composition of the invention preferably comprises a single fatty phase, and this fatty phase is preferably a continuous phase.

  The compositions of the invention may be anhydrous compositions, and then comprise up to 10% by weight of hydrophilic phase relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 1 to 5% by weight of hydrophilic phase and better still from 1 to 2% hydrophilic phase relative to the total weight of the composition, the hydrophilic phase consisting of water alone, or water and hydrophilic and water-soluble additives such as polyols, gelling agents and / or active. If this hydrophilic phase is present, it is preferably dispersed in the fatty phase which forms a continuous phase.

  According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition is anhydrous, that is to say that it comprises only the fatty phase, or virtually anhydrous, that is to say that it comprises less than 5% by weight of water and / or hydrophilic or hydrosoluble additives.

POLYOL ETHER

  In the composition according to the invention, the polyol ether may be chosen in particular from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof.

  The pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers may comprise in particular from 1 to 450 oxyalkylenated units, preferably from 1 to 200 oxyalkylenated units, better still from 1 to 55 100 oxyalkylenated units and more preferably from 1 to 50 oxyalkylenated units. They may in particular be chosen from pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ethers containing from 1 to 450 oxyethylenated units, preferably from 1 to 200 oxyethylenated units, better still from 1 to 100 oxyethylenated units and more preferably from 1 to 50 oxyethylenated units; pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ethers having from 1 to 450 oxypropylene units, preferably from 1 to 200 oxypropylene units, more preferably from 1 to 100 oxypropylene units and more preferably from 1 to 50 oxypropylene units; and their mixtures. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, use is made of pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (5 EO) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 PO) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and mixtures thereof, and more particularly the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether mixture, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soya oil, sold under the name Lanolide by the company Vevy, mixture where the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% soybean oil.

  The fatty alcohol and sugar ethers may be selected from the group consisting of ethers or mixtures of C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose; ethers or mixtures of C 14 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and methylglucose; and their mixtures.

  The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the sugar ethers comprise a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising respectively 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers derived from the fatty alcohol may be chosen in particular from the decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanyl units, and mixtures thereof such as cetearyl (mixture of cetyl and stearyl).

  As examples of fatty alcohol ethers and sugar, there may be mentioned in particular alkylpolyglucosides (APG) such as decylglucoside and laurylglucoside sold for example by Henkel under the respective names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200, cetearylglucoside optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, said mixture being marketed for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic (mixture where the constituents are in a 12/46/42 ratio: 12% cetearyl glucoside, 46% cetyl alcohol and 42% stearyl alcohol). As cetearylglucoside, mention may also be made of the products sold under the name Tegocare CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel. As APG, mention may also be made of arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of a mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidylglucoside, sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic. Mention may also be made of alkylpolyglucosides with a branched or unsaturated chain, such as isostearyl glucoside, optionally mixed with isostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov WO18 by the company Seppic, and oleylglucoside, optionally in admixture. with oleyl alcohol marketed by Seppic. It is also possible to use a mixture of these alkylpolyglucosides. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mixture of the alkylpolyglucoside as defined above with the corresponding fatty alcohol may be in the form of a self-emulsifying composition, as described for example in the document WO-A- 92/06778.

  The amount of polyol ether (s) may vary to a large extent, and may range, for example, from 0.5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and more preferably from 5 to 25% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PASTY

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one other pasty compound different from the compound described above.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. By pasty, is also meant vinyl polylaurate.

  The pasty compound within the meaning of the invention may have a hardness at 20 C ranging from 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.

  The hardness is measured according to a method of penetration of a probe into a sample of compound and in particular using a texture analyzer (for example TA-XT2i from Rhéo) equipped with a stainless steel cylinder. 2 mm in diameter. The hardness measurement is carried out at 20 C in the center of 5 samples. The cylinder is introduced into each sample at a pre-speed of 1 mm / s and then at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, the penetration depth being 0.3 mm. The measured value of the hardness is that of the maximum peak.

  This pasty compound can be, at the temperature of 23 C, in the form of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. may represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

  The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound.

  The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.

  The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DS C), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA instrument, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 C per minute, according to the standard ISO 11357-3: 1999.

  The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in Jlg.

  The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. is the quantity of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state it exhibits at 23 ° C. consisting of a linear fraction and a solid fraction.

  The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 80 to 100%, more preferably 90 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 C is 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 C.

  The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. on the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C.

  The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

  The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from - lanolin and its derivatives - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds - fluorinated or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds - vinyl polymers, in particular: • homopolymers of olefins • copolymers of olefins homopolymers and copolymers hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group; homo and copolymeric oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, the fat-soluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-C50, diols, and the esters, and mixtures thereof.

  The pasty compound is preferably polymer, in particular hydrocarbon-based.

  A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty compound is polymethyl trifluoropropyl methylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.

  When the pasty compound is a silicone and / or fluorinated polymer, the corn-composition advantageously takes a compatibilizing agent such as short-chain esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate.

  Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C6-C30 long-chain alkylene oxides are particularly preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of the ethylene oxide and / or or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecane-diol ethers. (22 mol) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

  Among the esters, the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol - the arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives - pentaerythritol esters - non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a polyacid linear or branched C 4 -C 50 carboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol, the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of a hydroxycarboxylic acid ester aliphatic with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; The aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched.

  The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) partial or total esters of C 2 to C 6 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The aliphatic ester esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 1 (11) or hydrogenated castor oil monoisostearate , the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

  The pasty compound is preferably 1 to 99%, more preferably 1 to 60%, more preferably 2 to 30% and most preferably 5 to 15% by weight of the composition.

  According to one of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising at least one polyol ether, chosen from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, and at least one copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone.

  The composition may also comprise a polyalkylene chosen from copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 and better still of C3 to C20 alkene. By way of example of a copolymer of VP which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymers of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.

  The vinylpyrrolidone copolymer may have a melting point of between 30 and 40 ° C. The copolymer of the vinylpyrrolidone may represent from 0.1 to 10% by weight of the composition, for example from 0.5 to 5% by weight of the composition.

OIL

  The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil. By "oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium liquid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), physiologically acceptable.

  The amount of oil (s) may range, for example, from 20 to 80% by weight and preferably from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  These oils may be hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. In addition, the oils used may be volatile and / or non-volatile. By volatile oil is meant an oil capable of evaporating at ambient temperature from a support on which it has been applied, in other words an oil having a measurable vapor pressure at 25 ° C. and 1 atmosphere, for example greater than 0 Pa. in particular ranging from 10-3 to 300 mmHg (0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa). Volatile oils that may be mentioned include volatile silicone oils, such as cyclic or linear volatile silicones. There may also be mentioned volatile hydrocarbon oils such as isoparaffins, and volatile fluorinated oils.

  Among the oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, some are polar and others are apolar (that is to say non-polar).

  The polar oils comprise in their chemical structure at least one nonionic polar group, and preferably at least two nonionic or ionic polar groups such as the following groups 000H; Mono or disubstituted OH (primary or secondary); PO4; - NHR; NR, R 2, R 2 and R 2 optionally forming a ring and representing a linear or branched C 1 -C 20 alkyl or alkoxy radical or where R 1 'and R 2' may represent hydrogen or a straight or branched alkyl or alkoxy chain in C, at C20.

  The polarity can be described by the solubility parameter of Hansen 8a. In fact, this parameter characterizes, for a given constituent, the energy corresponding to the polar (5p) and hydrogen bond (8h) interactions existing between the molecules of this constituent.

  Ba = VSp + B ,, The apolar oils have a value of 8a equal to 0. In particular, the apolar oils according to the invention can be in particular chosen from: - silicone oils, such as volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) or not, linear or cyclic, liquid at room temperature; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyldimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; linear or branched hydrocarbons of synthetic or mineral origin, such as paraffin oils, which are volatile or non-volatile, and their derivatives; Vaseline oil; liquid lanolin; polydecenes; hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; squalane; hydrogenated isoparaffin; isohexadecane; isododecane; - and their mixtures.

  The polar oils have a value of 8a different from 0, that is to say greater than 0. In particular, the polar oils used in the composition of the invention may be chosen from: - oils of plant origin, high triglyceride hydrocarbon oils consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C24, the latter being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. As oils of vegetable origin, there may be mentioned jojoba oils, wheat germ, corn, sunflower, shea butter, castor oil, sweet almonds, macadamia, apricot, soya, cotton, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, avocado, hazelnut, grape seed or black currant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, olive, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, coriander; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel; synthetic oils or synthetic esters of formula RSCOOR6 in which R5 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R6 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R5 + R6 is? 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, and the like. isostearyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; C12-C15 alkylbenzoate; and pentaerythritol esters; synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - C5 to C26 fatty alcohols such as oleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol; - their mixtures.

WAX

  The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one wax. A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic fat compound, solid at room temperature (25 C), with reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than 40 C and up to 200 C, and having in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.

  Any type of wax can be used. The waxes may be chosen from waxes of natural origin, in particular of vegetable or animal origin, from waxes of mineral origin, from waxes of synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. As waxes that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of beeswax, Montan wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Chinese wax, flax wax, fir wax, cotton wax, Ouricoury wax, lignite wax, rice bran wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, paraffin waxes , microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils having a melting temperature of greater than about 40 ° C., such as hydrogenated jojoba oil, and polyethylene waxes which result from the polymerization of the ethylene, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and glycerides concrete (that is to say solid) at 40 C, silicone waxes such as alkyl, alkoxy and / or esters of poly (di) methylsiloxane solids at 40 C; and their mixtures.

  As indicated above, when the composition comprises a polar oil, it must contain at least one apolar wax. When the composition comprises an apolar oil, it must contain at least one polar wax. When the composition comprises a polar oil and an apolar oil, it must comprise at least one apolar wax.

  As indicated above for oils, the polarity can be described by the Hansen solubility parameter 8a according to the above equation.

  The so-called apolar waxes have a value of 8a equal to 0. These are, in particular, hydrocarbon waxes essentially comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, or silicone waxes. As hydrocarbon waxes, there may be mentioned in particular microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, paraffin waxes, polyethylene waxes (unmodified).

  The so-called polar waxes are waxes comprising polar groups as indicated above for the oils, and they have a value of 8a greater than 0. These are in particular the waxes of animal origin, the waxes of vegetable origin, waxes of synthetic origin comprising polar groups and silicone waxes comprising polar groups. Examples include Montan wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Chinese wax, flax wax, fir wax, cotton wax, Ouricoury wax, lignite wax , rice bran wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, polyglycerolated beeswax, hydrogenated oils, fatty acid esters and glycerides, 40 C, silicone waxes having one or more ester groups.

  The total amount of wax (es) (polar and / or apolar) can range, for example, from 5 to 40% by weight and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

HYDROPHILIC PHASE

  As indicated above, the composition of the invention may comprise from 0 to 10% by weight of a hydrophilic phase, relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 1 to 5% by weight, which may comprise from 1 to 5% by weight. water and / or hydrophilic or water-soluble additives (active and / or gelling agents for example). It may include moisturizers such as glycerin. The hydrophilic constituents optionally present are preferably dispersed in the fatty phase consisting of oils and waxes.

PARTICULAR PHASE

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise a particulate phase. The amount of particulate phase may range, for example, from 0 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0 to 20% by weight, based on the weight of the composition. When a particulate phase is present, its amount is generally at least 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amount of particulate phase may range, for example, from 0.05 to 30% by weight and preferably from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. This particulate phase can comprise particles selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, fillers, and mixtures thereof. These pigments, nacres, and fillers are chosen from those usually used in cosmetic compositions. By pigments, it is necessary to include white or colored particles, mineral or organic, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. By fillers, it is necessary to include colorless or white particles, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar, intended to give the body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, dullness and uniformity make-up. By nacres, we must understand iridescent particles that reflect light.

  The pigments may be white or colored, inorganic and / or organic, of micrometric or nanometric size. Examples of inorganic pigments that may be mentioned include titanium dioxide, zirconium dioxide and cerium dioxide, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, and lacquers of barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

  Among the nacres that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride, and with colored titanium mica.

  The fillers can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar. As fillers that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, nylon powders, polyethylene powders, Teflon, modified or unmodified starch, and micatitane. , natural mother-of-pearl, boron nitride, microspheres such as Expancel (Nobel Industry), Polytrap (Dow Corning), lauroyl lysine, and silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example).

  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one dyestuff which may be chosen from lipophilic dyes or hydrophilic dyes usually used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, as well as from the pigments and nacres described above; and their mixtures. This dyestuff is generally present in a proportion of 0.01 to 40% by weight and preferably 5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Additives

  The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in the field under consideration, in particular the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants; the perfumes; essential oils; conservatives; cosmetic assets; vitamins such as vitamin E (tocopherol) and its derivatives (for example acetate), vitamin A (retinol) and its derivatives (for example retinyl palmitate), vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives (for example palmitate ascorbyl), the derivatives of these vitamins including esters including palmitate and acetate; essential fatty acids; sphingolipids and ceramides; self-tanning compounds such as DHA (dihydroxyacetone); sunscreens such as, for example, octyl methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX), 3-benzophenone (Uvinul M40), butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789); surfactants; polymers; and their mixtures. These additives may be present in the composition in a proportion of from 0 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

  The methods of manufacturing the compositions according to the invention do not differ from the processes conventionally used in cosmetics and perfectly known to those skilled in the art.

  The compositions according to the invention may in particular constitute a care product and / or a makeup product for keratin materials, in particular skin, lips and integuments such as nails, eyelashes, eyebrows and hair. Makeup products are mostly colored and usually contain pigments. In the form of makeup products, the compositions of the invention may advantageously constitute a foundation, a lipstick, a blush, an eyeshadow, a mascara or an eyeliner.

  This product may be in the form of a cast powder, a cup product (foundation, blush, eyeshadow), or a product in the form of a stick (lipstick or hair care stick). lips). According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is in the form of stick (stick), especially for the care of the lips or lip makeup as lipstick.

  Also, the subject of the invention is also the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, for the care and / or the treatment of the skin, the lips and / or the integuments, and in particular for the hydration of the lips.

  The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition as defined above, for the makeup of the skin, lips and / or integuments.

  The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for treating chapped and / or dry lips, comprising applying to the lips a cosmetic composition as defined above.

  The invention is further illustrated in the following examples, in which the percentages are by weight unless otherwise indicated.

  Example 1: Lanolide lipstick (Vevy company) Diisotearyl malate 10% Polydimethylsiloxane (5 cSt) 5% Pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate 10% Tridecyl trimellitate 10 2decyl tetradecanoic acid triglyceride 3% Isononyl isononanoate 10% Esters of iso-stearic and adipic vegetable fatty acids (Softisan 100) 6% Polybutene 5 0/0 Polyethylene wax 6.3 Microcrystalline wax 4 Pigments and dyes 11 Vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymer 2 DL-bisabolol 0.3 N-lauroyl lysine 2,4 Preservative qs Example 2: Lanolide lipstick (Vevy company) 18.6% Isostearyl neopentanoate 13.3 Bisglyceryl polyadipate (Softisan 100) 3.35 Phenyl trimethicone 7.6 Phenyl trimethicone 20 cSt 3.6 Bentone 1.44 Isostearate isopropyl 22,56 Ozokerite (mineral wax) 1,75 Polyethylene wax 6,5 Polyethylene wax 3,2 Titanium dioxide 0,73 Red 7 3, 4 Yellow 6 lake 6,12 Kaolin 5 N-Lauroyl lysine 2 , 5 DL-Bisabolol 0.3 BHT qs Operating Mode ire: Grinding of the three-cylinder pigments with the oily phase and the gel phase.

  The gel was obtained under a turbine until swelling and homogenization of the bentone.

  The waxes are weighed in a double wall pan with oil circulation, then heated with stirring (turbine). After total melting, the ground material, the phenyltrimethicones and the active ingredients are added. After homogenization of the mixture, the juice is cast at 100 ° C. in a silicone aluminum mold at 42 ° C. After recrystallization of the sticks at -4 ° C. for at least 30 minutes, the grapes are introduced into the ACs and then set for stabilization for 24 hours at 20 ° C. before any evaluation.

Claims (35)

  1. Cosmetic composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising at least one polyol ether, chosen from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, and at least one pasty compound other than said polyol ether.   2. An anhydrous composition comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising at least one polyol ether, and at least one pasty compound.   3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polyol ether is chosen from pentaerythritol and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol and sugar ethers, and mixtures thereof.   4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyol ether is selected from ethers or mixtures of C8-C22 fatty alcohol ethers and glucose, maltose, sucrose or fructose; ethers or mixtures of C 14 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and methylglucose; and their mixtures.   8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyol ether is chosen from alkylpolyglucosides.   9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the alkylpolyglucoside is chosen from decylglucoside, laurylglucoside, cetearylglucoside, arachidyl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, oleylglucoside and mixtures thereof.   10. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyol ether is chosen from pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol ethers containing from 1 to 450 oxyethylenated units, the pentaerythritol and polypropylene glycol ethers containing from 1 to 450 oxypropylene units, and mixtures thereof.   11. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyol ether is chosen from pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units, pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units, and their mixtures.   12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the polyol ether is in the form of an ether mixture of pentaerythritol and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units / pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units / organic oil. soy.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the amount of polyol ether (s) ranges from 0.5 to 40% by weight and preferably from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.   14. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound has a hardness at 20 C between 0.001 to 0.5 MPa, preferably from 0.002 to 0.4 MPa.   15. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound has a liquid fraction at 23 C of between 9 and 97% by weight, preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85%. in weight.   16. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound has a liquid fraction at 32 C between 30 and 100% by weight, preferably between 80 and 100%, more preferably between 90 and 100%. in weight.   17. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is chosen from: - polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, - polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, - vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers of olefins. copolymers of olefins homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group homo and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups; homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-050 diols; esters, and mixtures thereof.   18. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pasty compound is hydrocarbon.   19. Composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the pasty compound is polymethyl trifluoropropyl methylalkyl dimethylsiloxane.   20. A composition according to claim 17, characterized in that the liposoluble polyether is chosen from ethylene-oxide and / or propylene oxide copolymers with alkylene oxides with a long C6 -C30 chain, more preferably such as Weight range of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide to alkylene oxides in the copolymer is 5:95 to 70:30.   21. Composition according to claim 20, characterized in that the liposoluble polyether is a block copolymer of polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol.   22. Composition according to Claim 17, characterized in that the esters are chosen from: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the groups hydroxyl glycerols reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, - arachidyl propionate, - phytosterol esters, - triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, - pentaerythritol esters, - non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a diol or a diol. C2-050 polyol, and the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.   23. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the pasty compound is a copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone (VP).   24. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is chosen from copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and C2 to C40 alkene and better still C3 to C20.   25. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone is chosen from copolymers of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / acid methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.   19. Composition according to one of the preceding claims in the form of a body make-up product, a red or lip gloss, a mascara, a nail polish, a coloring product or hair care, a deodorant.   26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains an amount of oil (s) ranging from 20 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 30 to 70% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.   27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a polar oil chosen from oils of vegetable origin; synthesis oils or synthetic esters of formula RSCOOR6 in which R5 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R6 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R5 + R6 is? 10; synthetic ethers; C8 to C26 fatty alcohols; and their mixtures.   28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a wax chosen from waxes of natural origin; waxes of mineral origin, waxes of synthetic origin; and their mixtures.   29. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax is chosen from beeswax, Montan wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Chinese wax, flax wax, wax of fir, cotton wax, Ouricoury wax, lignite wax, rice bran wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, ozokerites, hydrogenated oils having a melting temperature above 40 C, polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, fatty acid esters and concrete glycerides at 40 C, silicone waxes, and mixtures thereof.   30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains a quantity of wax (s) ranging from 5 to 40% by weight and preferably from 10 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.   31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a particulate phase.   32. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the particulate phase comprises particles selected from pigments, pearlescent agents, fillers, and mixtures thereof.   33. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in cast or compacted form.   34. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a lipstick.   35. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, for the care and / or the make-up of the skin, lips and / or integuments, and in particular for the hydration of the skin, lips and / or integuments.   36. Cosmetic use of a cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 34, for the makeup or care of the skin, lips and / or integuments.   37. A cosmetic method for treating chapped and / or dry lips, comprising applying to the lips a cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 34.